Thank you for saving me considerable amount of time. So many HP printers experience this problem, if only they used a piece of rubber instead of gluing a spongy foam.
@AintBigAintClever2 жыл бұрын
Certain rubber compounds can get gooey over time, too. "Ascom feet" were a messy encounter at work, where the rubber feet on Ascom line drivers (and BT Kilostream boxes which used the same case) would melt into a sticky gob. If you were lucky they'd catch your hand. If not so lucky, your sleeve.
@georgecampbell84023 жыл бұрын
This is a brilliant video. Shows you everything you need to know. Well, almost. This is a involved repair, the first time I did it somehow I managed to break the duplex unit. Hopefully, the second time I try this repair I will be successful, it certainly seems to be progressing better... the printer is working again and just needs plastic covers putting back on. Many printers will have been kept out of landfill due to this video. I seriously do not know how anyone could give it a 'thumbs down'!!!
@benfel94032 жыл бұрын
I am strongly suggesting that no-one does what I have done, but for info only....... I had the grinding sound and the same 59.F0 message. Having watched this great video, I realised I do not have enough time until the weekend to address this properly. When there was talk in the comments of sticky issue and the foam on the solenoid being the issue, as a long shot, with the printer off and cold, I opened the side door and the rear inspection plate, removed the image tray and whatever it is at the top and blew a hairdryer in the direction of the solenoid for five to ten mins on medium heat, then when things were warm, turned the printer on and hey presto, managed to get the fault to go away and get on with my printing. I know it will come back, but I can deal with things at the weekend. Just thought I would share what I did in case anyone is in emergency mode, but obviously I do not recommend this course of action! Great video Jerry, many thanks.
@woodpecker8403 жыл бұрын
Thankyou mr. Jerry Hence A friend of mine had this problem. It took you 20 minutes. But it took us two days then we forgot where the wires were supposed to go and the sequence of screws. Fixed the solenoid with plastic piece. This proves companies are deliberately making products malfunction so they can throw away and buy new. This is a disgrace. GODBLESS.
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Tis why there’s a less involved way to access the transfer solenoid.. no need to disassemble the DC controller and all it’s wires.. can be done in half this time
@AintBigAintClever2 жыл бұрын
Just fixed one on my second attempt. One thing to watch for: when refitting the solenoid it's possible for the lever to catch alongside the cog instead of fitting between the teeth. I only noticed it because the slotted screw hole on the solenoid wasn't sitting back properly. The fix is to reach in through the top with a flat-blade screwdriver and move the sprung end of the lever, effectively actuating the solenoid. This allowed it to slip into place. This can be accessed from the top once the lid is removed, so no need to strip right down to get at it again, and also potentially an easy way to give the solenoid a nudge if it's caught again. Mine's now got a strip of insulating tape on the metal where the sponge pad strikes.
@pseudonym51652 жыл бұрын
it wasn't strictly necessary to remove the PSU, btw, but anyway, this video helped me through the fixing process. I had seen another vid a while before, who unscrewed even more parts and almost scared me away from trying, but from there I knew how to fix the solenoid. You definitly helped saving my printer from ending up in a landfill, thanks a lot!
@studentshop17173 жыл бұрын
Hi, Jerry video was commendable It solved my problem step by stop without breaking the locks of my printer otherwise in Pakistan the printer should be dumped. thanks for this
@ioannispapas94773 жыл бұрын
Thankyou mr. Jerry Hence 17minutes it works perfectly...
@digimann23 жыл бұрын
Jerry, your great man. Thank you so much. This is how it must be. Perfect explaining. A great video.
@z_elias5 жыл бұрын
I'm very thankful for this video! It probably saved me a few hours! Nice and clean piece of work!
@hloologaming69094 жыл бұрын
Thank you Jerry, the video was awsome and i hope that you upload more videos, i am Ashraf Osman from Cairo, Egypt thank you very much.
@dronin73342 жыл бұрын
Awesome video jerry!! I have one of these printers with that 59.f0 error I'll check this..thx
@rolando48123 жыл бұрын
bro, watching this during corona virus times. I see him coughing all on the printer. hhaha Thank you for the content sir!
@bobrickner590011 ай бұрын
If the solenoid isn't electrically bad, you don't have to replace it. Just clean the sticky residue off and put a peice of heat shrink tubing over the tab you scraped the goo off of. Cut a thin piece and just cover the end of that. Heat it up so it shrinks and it works great and it will stay on..
@joaustin1 Жыл бұрын
Great video. Thanks so much.
@mufutauridwan88484 жыл бұрын
Tnx I jst fix my printer with the help of this video👍
@stevenkimdmd3 жыл бұрын
You can access the solenoid without removing the power supply board.
@5150Morgan4 жыл бұрын
Thx for video! HP ---- fix your !@#$% solenoid goo problem! Had this issue on multiple machines for freakin decades!
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
HP’s solenoid foam pad is rampant throughout all their models.. paper feed solenoids, exit/duplex solenoids.. all are junk. Get shrink wrap tubing to fix.
@user-mv4ys4yx8t2 жыл бұрын
Джери ты молодец. Отличное видео. Мне помогло. Спасибо.
@naeemdin7968 Жыл бұрын
Hellow Sir, My Printer HP CP 4025 hs the same problem 59.F0. After doing this process when I tried to Start Printer, its displays work and scanning process started but did not complete. Fans are not running, no noise of printer starting, what should I do?
@BehzadEghtesad Жыл бұрын
Thanks for this movie. i have a CM3530 printing fine on USB but cannot connect it via LAN, win10 dose not recognize the LAN. The cable is fine, ip4 is fine. possible the formatter board needs to replace?
@teslastellar3 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot. Helped solved my problem.
@andreasanastasiadis44782 жыл бұрын
please have you a compete tear down video for this printer ...
@rafaelborja37746 ай бұрын
Is there any similar procedure for CP5225?
@benarkos5392 жыл бұрын
How to replace the laser unit pls?
@omololaazeez27603 жыл бұрын
Please what can cause hp color laserjet cp3525 to misaligned solution
@nekooking19944 жыл бұрын
good morning I have a question, I have an hp cp4525 with faults in the page counter, she counts them when I print them and after I turn off the printer and turn it on she subtracts the pages already printed from the counter, you know what is happening that? do you have any solution for that failure?
@mosesm74284 жыл бұрын
You do not have to replace the solenoid, just clean the sticky foam and left over glue off of it, the deteriorating piece of foam designed to damp the tap noise when solenoid engages, that have been a common problem in printers and copiers for several decades.
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
I usually like to replace the foam with proofing material, a felt-like sticky pad, but shrink wrap works just the same
@somnathchavan42903 жыл бұрын
Solinoid coil ok hai aur dusara kya problem ho sakata hai
@NathanCarr5 жыл бұрын
What is the part number of the Solenoid and do you have a favored place to purchase it from?
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Just use shrink wrap to cover the old foam pad.. no need for new solenoid
@nekooking19944 жыл бұрын
buenos días tengo una pregunta, tengo un hp cp4525 con fallas en el contador de páginas, ella las cuenta cuando las imprimo y después de apagar la impresora y encenderla, resta las páginas ya impresas del contador, sabes qué está pasando eso? ¿Tienes alguna solución para ese falla o error?
@hitmanbluesband2 жыл бұрын
I disassembled the whole damn printer, based on another YT video, where you actually take the whole board out. I confirmed that the gears WERE properly aligned, so that's good. My solenoid didn't have any kind of foam on it - and there was no residue, so I don't think it ever did. Is there any way of testing the solenoid with a VOM while it's out?
@hitmanbluesband2 жыл бұрын
I tried testing with a VOM set at 2000 Ohm, it reads 154 when open, jumps up to 248 when closed for a second, then back down to 154 - even if it's still closed. I'm very confused. Everyone is talking about the foam tape, even on other KZbins and various sites - yet the replacement solenoids look like mine - no foam at all. Any clarification would appreciated. I also used a paperclip to test for magnetism - neither the arm nor the metal "button" it hits seem to be magnetized at all. Also the arm moves freely.
@thundernator45405 жыл бұрын
Thank you Jerry! Our HP CP3525N works again after this dreaded 59.F0 error. I followed your video forwards and backwards to get at the solenoid and then put everything back. For the solenoid repair, I followed Jay Groh's video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gae7gGuDrtKBnpI I used a toothpick to remove the sponge. Then I used a wet paper towel to wipe away the sticky residue. I used black vinyl electrical tape to wrap around the area of the metal plate that hits what used to be the sponge area of the solenoid. I actually saw Csavar Nyúzó's video first: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5ybmZ6Jqreshc0 I was about a quarter of the way through but switched gears to Jerry's method because it didn't involve removing so many components especially all the printer parts on the right side when facing the printer's display panel. Some suggestions for the folks out there: 1. Take lots of pix before ripping out cables, wires, connections, etc. This came in very handy when putting back all the connections for the boards above the power supply. 2. I did not leave the metal plate for the square board hanging to the side. I carefully removed the wire mess from the black plastic wire management system so that I can remove the metal plate. I left the black plastic wire management system attached to the metal plate. 3. I documented where all the screws go. I poked them through paper and then wrote and drew diagrams.
@edgardorivera61717 күн бұрын
whats the part number?
@hitmanbluesband2 жыл бұрын
Comment to Jerry: Thanks for this. After replacing the whole fuser assembly driver, I now get a 55.01.00 DC Controller memory error. I've replaced the DC Controller board (twice), and using your video (as opposed to the original one I used where you take the whole thing apart) I've been able to look at everything in a reasonable amount of time. Trouble is, I can't find anything that isn't connected. Nothing. It can't be the DC Controller, as I've replaced it twice. HP Support was less than helpful. I've posted to other printer tech forums, nobody has a suggestion I haven't tried (remove toners, remove fuser and transfer belt, check all connections, reset printer). I'm wondering if you've run up against this issue, and if you did, was there a fix? I hate to toss what should be a great printer, especially after all this work!
@darthjar91174 жыл бұрын
Why does the power supply have to come out?
@bazilbaraza83794 жыл бұрын
Thank you Jerry
@longlifeprinters95 жыл бұрын
Just fix the solenoid by taking off the arm with it's spring & clean off all the sticky quiet pad that has turned to mush & either leave nothing in its place which will only have it make a slight clicking sound as the arm hits the magnet or, replace the quiet pad with a small piece of cotton from a q-tip spread out thinly where the old pad was & a 2 inch piece of clear tape going from the round magnet head & over the cotton & past it & to the back side of the metal L shape. The tape will then stay there as long as the printer lasts. I have never had a bad solenoid, just hundreds of sticky quiet pads from getting old & disintegrating.
@marcorenk5 жыл бұрын
Does not work on this machine since the hole to get the "arm" out is smaller than the "arm" it self.
@raymwakamakusakashekele78374 жыл бұрын
Thanks alot this was a nice tutorial, we need you, am more into this job with a passion. And the screw driver, nice we need it together with the touch. Thank you once more.
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Leaving bare metal will magnetize and cause the same error.. you need a non-magnetizable buffer
@activepersonn4 жыл бұрын
I want the screw driver you have a link
@fernandopalau5 жыл бұрын
hi, i need info about a error, 51.20, hot to fix this? Can you help me?
@trinht494 жыл бұрын
hello Jerry, incase if I have to replace the solenoid .Would you please to let me know the part number for that . Thanks
@Okipentv3 жыл бұрын
part number RK2-0950
@73p3ro2 жыл бұрын
@@Okipentv And you don't even have to replace the solenoid. Technicians have many different ways to deal with these sticking solenoids. Some repad them with the same material, some use black tape... I heard of one guy using super glue and tiny pieces of tire innertube. Personally, I don't repad them. But you have to do SOMETHING to them, otherwise the metal plate becomes magnetized, and it sticks down--the same thing it does when the padding gets old. So you can bend the part of the solenoid, as illustrated in the pics below. I've been doing it this way for years, on HP, Dell, Brother, and dozens of other machines. It's always worked, and I've never have to revisit a solenoid that I've fixed.
@alvarol84653 жыл бұрын
What This PN This solenoid?
@salifthiam89623 жыл бұрын
thank jerry big up
@youssefouabouch41785 жыл бұрын
please what is the name of this devise and wher can we buy it thanks.
@rsa37204422 жыл бұрын
Respekt!
@MrDrazill4 жыл бұрын
Спасибо, очень полезно!
@farhansahib48504 жыл бұрын
Thanks jerry
@patrickschannel68573 жыл бұрын
What is the part number for that solenoid so that I can order a replacement ahead of time? Thanks!
@omololaazeez27603 жыл бұрын
Please what are the causes of hp color laserjet cp3525 printing blurry and misaligned solution
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Use shrink wrap over the foam pad.. much easier
@simonm41852 жыл бұрын
I didnt use my CP3525 for a year and now I get a sharp grinding noise for a few seconds during the startup sequence, or if i try to print, and it aborts with the 59.F0 error. Do you think this will solve it, and do i need to reassemble everything to try, or can i try it while its still disassembled?
@sadeghbehresi63744 жыл бұрын
thanks
@mwhy2444 жыл бұрын
OMG!!!, I just put it altogether. 5 internal screws surplus...guess what. NO DISPLAY.
@KenKyleRacing2 жыл бұрын
Reseat the ribbon cable from the interconnect board to the formatter. I almost always forget to even plug that ribbon cable back in.
@jonatanrivera80235 жыл бұрын
Buen video 🖒😎💪
@adelgeddo3 жыл бұрын
No need to replace man There is abetter solution to fix its problema
@2000ViperGTSsubscribe2 жыл бұрын
Just clean it-right?
@smithfair64642 жыл бұрын
Please explain thanks
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Put 3/8” shrink wrap tubing on foam pad , or scrape old foam pad off and install small strips of proofing material from Ricoh.. ez PZ..
@user-vq6ou7zq8m3 жыл бұрын
دمت گرم دوست دارم
@GuillermoNoriega20015 жыл бұрын
Sir. I can't thank you enough. I was able to take my old printer apart and fix the solenoid myself. I actually repaired it by watching kzbin.info/www/bejne/gae7gGuDrtKBnpI @2:29. I had to take it apart twice because I had put to much tape the first time. Great job with the camera angles everything was easy to understand.
@stevenkimdmd3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the tip. I also had to take it apart twice for the same reason. Surprisingly little tape was needed. Now it works perfectly.
@user-uo5fk6vj6m3 жыл бұрын
Джери кто же таким инструментом разбирает,ты же резьбу сорвёш.
@ShyRockFreak862 жыл бұрын
Too many parts removed to do this job efficiently.. no need to remove LVPS, no need to disassemble DC controller.. this step by step translates to 1.5 hours of work.. too much time to spend on this job..