Craft City Canal Docks Tiles for Wargaming or Tabletop RPGs! Great for DND or Carnevale by TTCOMBAT

[@SweenyMarc]

With a change to a grimier / more industrial colour scheme this is a near perfect guide for the Necromunda canal Underhive tiles I was planning to make. The water effect was excellent and the epoxy tape was a revelation, I have never even heard of that before and it looks like it works brilliantly.

[@parttimetabletopper]

Nice! I’m glad it might be helpful for you. I had the same revelation with the epoxy tape. I’d seen a lot of crafters use different methods with frames, and then saw somebody use the tape when they were making a table and went 💡😮

[@drewbakka5265]

Right as I am building mordheim terrain

[@butube555]

Very Good, thanks

[@jnlsnfamily8747]

Love this channel, I feel like your tutorials are approachable. Thank you!

[@parttimetabletopper]

That’s awesome! Thanks so much for saying so.

[@magnusmillerwilson]

Nice job! that mica powder is GORGEOUS. Gotta get me some of that!!!

[@parttimetabletopper]

It’s awesome isn’t it? I can’t remember where I saw the technique (somewhere on KZbin), but I found a 24 pack on Amazon. Definitely give it a try!

[@TeaBagProductions]

Absolutely love this build tutorial,can't wait to build the industrial scifi equivalent

[@parttimetabletopper]

Thanks so much! I’d be interested to see what that looks like when it’s done. Good luck 🙌

[@MegaNoah13]

I want to see a variation of these as roads! I love your work so far, btw. Immediately subscribed with the bell. Thanks!!!!!

[@parttimetabletopper]

Thanks so much! 🙌 I think a variation of these as roads would be cool.

[@jamesg9840]

Love the Carnevale setting. Have the box set, but haven’t played it yet. The photos of the miniatures and set buildings look awesome.

[@parttimetabletopper]

I'm glad somebody asked me to make these, because I had never heard of it until then. Learned a bit about the setting in process of coming up with the design. It looks fun!

[@lilcwa]

Great work

[@parttimetabletopper]

Thank you!

[@daykz69]

Great job and given me inspiration to do same for my Carnivale game

[@parttimetabletopper]

Go for it! Hope they turn out great.

[@KailumsRealm]

Fantastic guide! Ty

[@anthonywaggett9317]

I have been looking for how to create a modular 3d board for my Carnevale so major plus points on this, but I have to ask why you laid down such a thick layer of XPS on top of the plywood as this only adds expense to the build and why you cut the foam into 6 inch pieces instead of using 12 inch to minimise joints (my assumption is the size of your foam cutter). You have given me a few tips I had not seen before (never seen the resin tape used) but the one thing I'm still trying to work out is a way to 'join' the tiles that allows rotation without laser cut tabs or magnets. I have considered metal or bamboo spikes in the foam (leaves you with holes), Velcro (same issue as magnets although I have an idea I need to try involving small strips next to each other but alternating on each side), some kind of frame around the edge (restricts you to a set board size or a fabric strap (in which case your thick foam layer is perfect), final thought is a slot and tab (like the Hot Wheels/Matchbox tracks, again the thicker foam makes sense). Anyway a great board, only thing I will probably add are are 3 water only boards to use in the Blood on the Water expansion.

[@parttimetabletopper]

Always happy to answer questions! Glad you picked up a few tricks from the video, and I appreciate the compliments. The thick layer of XPS was done for two reasons: accessibility and personal preference. Where I live, 1" thick XPS foam is easy to get your hands on in the form of 2'x2' project panels, and I've found crafters here tend to lean that direction unless they do it a lot and want the larger sheet. You can absolutely buy a large sheet of thinner foam and cut it down, or even use some dollar store polystyrene foam instead. The personal preference comes into play, because I like my terrain to have some elevation. I could save a few bucks by going thinner, but I feel the terrain has more of a richness and presentation quality to it when the base is thick. You're right about the the 6" cuts. The Proxxon only allows for cuts up to 8". I've been pondering ways to create a guide that's off the machine to allow for larger cuts, but haven't gotten around to it yet. For 12"x12" tiles, going with multiple 6" cuts was the next logical choice. That is tricky. If you did plywood bases, I've found that the weight of the wood overpowers magnets, so your best bet is probably one of the frame, Velcro, or tab options. You could always set it on a surface that rotates? Some all water tiles would be a great addition! Maybe even one with an island.

[@Salty_Sassenach]

I don't know if your client wanted it done this way but another idea would be to Not raise the water with foam & paint the water effect on the plywood. Also Cut the foam to the size you're going to stick to the plywood, rather than two 6 inch squares etc to make an oblong or square with 4 smaller square's. You won't have any filling to do then. TTCombat has Streets of Venice at relatively cheap prices, I've even found them 20% discounted elsewhere. I've even seen someone use a blue table cloth for the water & then place the Street layout's on top. Just Saying 😜😜

[@parttimetabletopper]

Haha yes, that all works. The idea with this was to have something more realistic. There are always cheap and simple ways to create our TTRPG setups, but this was not that kind of project. My buyer had reference photos and wanted something that looked realistic, and that was the purpose of this tutorial.