Crawl Space Insulation

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

Oh my, what a great invention! I admire your intellectual aspect ,on every solution ..wow you're amazing Larry! Unbelievable amount of intelligence! 👍👍

[@davidmattoon4237]

Good thought process. One glaring issue would be to make sure to not trap your metal support columns below the vapor barrier. The bottoms will just rust right through and you’ll never see it until they fail.

[@dipankardas-yy8fh]

😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅

[@dipankardas-yy8fh]

😅😅😅😅

[@michaeladams3739]

Great Video and Well Done! There must be a far less expensive way to accomplish the same effect I would think. Not all homeowners have deep pockets!

[@jamesdean4992]

+Michael Adams I have to do this and iam gonna do it...........sucks lol

[@PhD6193]

I can’t find your solution anywhere. I need it ! Please attach your link for the masses. Thank you Michael

[@twiceisluv157]

That has to be the cleanest crawl space I have ever seen! the crawl spaces I've been at have dead rats and bones look like a animal have died under there it was filthy half of the crawl spaces I have worked on

[@joshuadavid2259]

6mil visqueen and spray foamed 15 years ago its still doing its job and im still happy

[@spenceryelinek4313]

I've heard horror stories of spray foam

[@christianxzowner2958]

Got a mobile home with a skirting around that is foamed sprayed...but my floor isnt isolated...floor is a plastic on the ground with pebbles over it

[@christianxzowner2958]

The floor of the house is cold ...is insulating my floors be enuf or an insulation is need also on the ground of the crawl space?

[@leanit5756]

Larry, congrats on your BAJA endeavors. I wish there was someone who offered such crawl space services in the coastal pac NW. There are contractors out in the I-5 corridor, but they all seem to avoid the coastal counties where we get 60-120 inches of rain per year. Must see the work as too over whelming where we get so much rain. Out here the crawls are horrible.

[@paultrigger3798]

There's definitely a big market for 'crawlspace encapsulation' right now. It's an incredibly expensive project to be done right in most homes, I've been quoted from a range from 7k to 12k.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

You can buy the materials from Americover on the web and pay a contractor or handyman much less to install. Alternatively, you can do it yourself. I installed and saved at least 5k.

[@beachbum1808]

I do my own encapsulation on each house I renovate. Spray foam diy kit is 900 at home depot and vapour barrier is cheap! Just dirty work.

[@johnmcnally322]

For anyone reading this I was quoted between 20k-23k in 2023.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

Wouldn't the insulation on the dirt be food for mold between the clean space plastic and the insulation on the dirt? It seems like you would have mold on the insulation. I put the plastic directly on top of the dirt. The plastic has an antimicrobial additive to prevent mold from growing on the plastic.

[@siskens470]

I am assuming this was the standard practice back in the day but wouldn't you use spray foam on the walls for insulation and vapor barrier?

[@Unaveragetrainguy]

My question as well. Not to mention, how to get sizable panels into the crawlspace, unless large enough access door. My trap door access is not that big.

[@chekadsarami4288]

I assume ( if not mistaken), get rid of mold then insulation. Correct?

[@vanessafunes1962]

Yes. Moisture intrusion can also damage home materials and encourage the growth of microbes such as mold. High moisture levels in soil beneath the foundation may cause structural damage from soil movement.

[@jimbo8743]

This guy is awesome 👍

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

He does everything, he does Baja he's an entrepreneur, a business owner dirt bikes mechanic, love to have him as a neighbor

[@dannyyo7948]

4:44 the above head floor is insulated. Do you insulate between joists? Or you leave the floor not insulated. Which would make sense since you put barrier on ground

[@drasweet1]

What kind of fiberglass insulation from the wood cavity is in the crawl space and is it ok to be exposed?

[@thomasmorrison3279]

Several concerns here: 1) termites travel up the foam without need for termite tunnel, 2) no termite inspection gap, 3) no drain tile around perimeter of crawlspace to direct standing water to sump pump, 4) no mention of dehumidifier, 5) no real need to insulate the floor, 6) no mold remediation or removal, 7) no mention of whether new insulation installed in floor joists, 8) no tape installed around openings for supports in floor.

[@jakethejeweler3092]

Thanks for more pro tips, deciding whether i should do this myself or not. I was wondering what they left out

[@MurphysLawUs]

Except that Larry patented crawlspace encapsulation. Look it up, the way you do things in a crawlspace came from Larry.

[@tonisams6902]

Thank you.

[@helgeandersen1491]

insulate the outside joist space + a vapour barrier there , also cut into the warm air duct for some cerculation ,

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

No you can't cut into the warm air duct, that would lose the pressure of the heating system.. come on

[@rickl6697]

So what about the 4" required to be left uncovered on the foundation wall for termite inspections and termites eating and boring through the foam. Please address that.

[@thefix2573]

Not everywhere has Termites.

[@gracejoy5339]

Wouldn't moisture, & potentially mold, collect on the outside of the materials used in contact with the ground & walls? Could the blocks themselves slowly crumble from mold & rot while the interior stays nicely conditioned? I don't think there's a way to avoid mold all together unless the house was built to be inhospitable to it in the first place.

[@evanwebb5020]

if you have mold eating at concrete blocks then you need to run away at all possible speed

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

I think you think too much

[@richardmccombs617]

Why do you not put the rigid foam on the outside of the block to seal moisture from getting in. You would need to stucco it to protect.

[@wontoots3645]

I was wondering about foam insulation Is the stuff you are putting on fire safe IE some or most foam board will let off toxic smoke when burned. In the event of a fire you would be knocked out with one breathe of this.

[@szpecunio]

wow man! great video man! helped me a lot man! thank you man keep it on!

[@marakorzen7023]

My family wants to refinish our hardwood floors too. Do we need to do this before installing insulation and moisture barriers?

[@turk242]

this is a great question. we are int the same situation and wish someone would chime in with an answer!

[@gracejoy5339]

turk242 & Mara Hodges, I wonder if either of you learned anything? My thought would be to insulate & create barriers to the crawlspace BEFORE you do the floors. The floors theoretically pick up moisture from below, so drying the basement would help the floors, too.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

Fix the crawl space first. Get the moisture controlled under the house before placing flooring on top of the joist. I did this in my crawl space and all of the mold smell went away. I also installed a giant dehumidifier.

[@soulsaucegoodwin319]

A few things. You said refinish, not replace. Water is the enemy of any home. Always beat water first. Either refinish or replace is avoiding cupping and mold. Consider LVP or any water proof flooring installed with a vapor barrier that you lay or comes with. Beware though that in video sill plate was not visible, intrusions were not addressed, and top blocks were not sealed.

[@mikemecklenborg5412]

I am looking to re insulate my crawl space. I have air vents and I live on the west side of Washington State on an island surrounded by ocean water which has a more mild temperature. My question is in the video you talk about covering these vents? If you recommend covering them then why are they even installed in the first place. Should I cover them in winter and remove them in summer? I thought they were there to keep the area aired out and dry. My house was built in 1995 so its not real old and I do have a vapor barrier on the ground. Nothing up the concrete wall from the vapor barrier to the floor insulation. I do get a little water like a puddle about 3 inches deep and 3 foot round in rainy months of October to February that ends up at one end of my crawl space but not much more unless we get a lot of rain or excessive amount of snow which is very rare. I have about a two foot drop from one side of my crawl space to the other. The low end I have about 1 foot above me laying on my back to install the insulation and on the other end I'm on my knees or even a little higher. The hanging rods that were used when my house was built were crap because a number of them bowed down and came out along with the insulation it was suppose to be holding. I have since put them back up with the same spare rods I had under there. I see there is a new style out now I might try. Do you recommend staying with the wire rods or going to twine or plastic twine/stripping to hold it up? Any help I can get would be appreciated. I need to do it myself after find it would be three times the price for material and labor. I also plan of insulating all my pipes with the foam insulation for pipes even though I have never hand anything freeze before. I am hoping to that this maybe the only time I have to do this since on average I have about 25 years left but right now still fit enough to do it myself with my son. Thanks Mike

[@sergeykazantsev1]

Get about 5 inch high of P-gravel to the floor of inside of your cs, so that water would be in it and under it, not paddling. Then cover everything with plastic from Home Depot, $114 a big roll. Make it more on to the walls up to 12 inch. Then lay on to this floor 1inch pink, or cheaper white foam insulation, tape sheets together with wide gorilla tape. Then insulate also all of the walls the same way, this time 2inch foam boards are better. All of the boards sold in 4x8 sheets, that have groves in the middle, where you can snap them in half. Close off all of the vents, install a dehumidifier if you will feel, that you have moisture content in the air, but I think by that time you will not have moisture anymore. While you will be installing foam on to floor, you will feel how beneficial it really is, by feeling warmth difference of one knee in the gravel, while another on the foam board. When all of this will be done, then you can slowly remove all of the floor fiberglass insulation, so that your floor above would contribute warmth to the now incapsulated crawl space. This project is expensive, you need to do this step by step, it will take maybe two-three years to do. You have to keep in mind, that doing so, you have to basically achieve gaining another room in your house, that is not tall and fancy, but almost the same condition, as other rooms. You have to say good bye to idea, that its' not that important, who cares what's under my floor. Bring electrician, install good lighting in 4 places and a light switch with an outlet next to the entry point. Build another little door out of 3/4 plywood, insulated from inside, on top of the common crawl space metal well that you have with sliding lead cover you have. Fix the sliding cover, drop couple of machine oil drops on the rounded sliders on the top rim of the well, so that cover would slide out and in easily, make sure that the sliding lead would hit the wall to have tight seal. God bless to start doing it, don't let bad smell go inside of your house, leaving all as it is.

[@albertalbert5612]

In alaska codes prevent from using any foam boards in your crawl space

[@misterleclair]

What would all that cost? Ballpark price.

[@AmericanPatriots87]

What would something like this cost in a 1200 square foot home

[@AmericanPatriots87]

Oh wow I'm sorry to hear that. It's hard to trust anyone these days. I hope they get their money back.

[@joeyastorga8285]

Andrew Williams around $10,000 I do encapsulations and they get expensive. It takes about 3 days.

[@-MrRichBiker1967]

That's the thing, all things basementy is a great solution, the problem is way too expensive!!;😮😮😮😮😮😮

[@gnome2024]

My home is only 1000 sqft with a 3-4 ft tall crawlspace. The weather is moderate and we dont get much rain or extreme temps in California. This is something I can do myself but it doesnt look like Basement Systems sells direct to consumer?

[@thomasmorrison3279]

Check out Americover on the web. They sell similar materials. I did it myself and saved at least 5k

[@Checkthefineprint]

I’ll check that thanks

[@samirhamid7529]

f there is a 6 inches of standing water in crawl space, then is it really bad? Is it expensive to fix if standing water in crawl space is unusual? Thanks in advance.

[@siskens470]

Any water in a space with no air movement will cause mold and the wood to rot. You need to grade the ground so the water doesn't pool and install a sump pump at the lowest point to remove that water.

[@bikeninja956]

can anyone explain to me how to build a small cabin (on peirs) yet have running water and piping (northern climate, Canada)..... are the only two options for this, either a foundation or crawl space???? out of the zillion construction video's, and a bazzilion cottages I drive by here, there's gotta be a way to do this, they all can't be only 3 season cottages... what am I missing?

[@alijabos]

Bury the lines and run heat trace wire on the water line for winter and only turn it on once the temp drops. Encapsulate the space under the cabin.

[@bikeninja956]

@@alijabos yeah I think I've seen a video or two of that being done for a cottage but it just looks so sketchy... what if the power goes out? I guess you could insulate and heat the water box (where the water comes out of the ground) and as for the lines burried underground, I'm assuming they wouldn't freeze if they were deep enough? Problem with a heated area where the pipes exit the ground, if the power goes out, very little time before the pipes will freeze vs. exiting them in a fully enclosed basement... in my basement here, I can have power outage here for a few days mid winter and the pipes will be ok. Just takes so long for the heat to escape...

[@alijabos]

@@bikeninja956 yeah, I mean usually the power goes out due to ice storms and not -20c. I think if you have a backup generator and keep your water running periodically. I know my dad wired up a large generator to a few essential parts to the house like the well pump

[@bikeninja956]

@@alijabos Yeah, you're right, a backup genny is a good idea, didn't think of that. And I guess you're right about the icestorms, it's always hovering around 0 when they hit and the power goes out. Good point. So how would this work? the well house is heated and on back up power, and would you make a little insulated, heated box where the pipe comes up out of the ground into the cabin?

[@samirhamid7529]

There is like 200 sqft extension of my house. During the inspection, The inspector told me there is no insulation system underneath the extended floor and moreover, there is no space or crawl space go under the floor to see that. What is the solution for that? Thanks in advance

[@softcurls55]

This video suggests to close the vents in the crawlspace, but aren't the vents supposed to keep the air moving in the crawlspace and prevent moisture from settling?

[@maclandyouth]

If the basement is completely sealed, there will be no moisture to settle. Those vents let in warm, moist air which is the very moisture you do not want. If there is no water comiing in from outside, you should have no moisture to have to handle.

[@softcurls55]

Chuck Scarborough Thank you! I understand now!

[@BasementSystemsInc]

Chuck Scarborough Thanks for the thoughtful answer Chuck!

[@donaldlee6760]

This is a great question. Current best practices are to close off crawl spaces and effectively make it part of the inside on the house. Dr. Joe Lstiburek of Building Sciences Corp (and who wrote part of the buidling code for the Dept. of Energy) has some really good books and videos about this subject.

[@VG-yh3ci]

Hello, I live in Minnesota. My house is from 1923 with a dirt floor and rock foundation. When standing in my bedroom (old porch I think) I feel a cold draft rising upward in the winter. Underneath the bedroom has a crawl space with a dirt floor. I want to remove the subfloor and place foam in place then add new subfloor. I will add a sliver piece of wood to hold up the foam. My question is Would it be ok to add a can of spray foam on the edges of the board then place the board in place? Or do you need to have it vent alittle? Thank you for your time and knowledge.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

I think you would be better off leaving the floor in place and work under the house in the crawl space. Install insulation in the floor joist and install vapor barrier on the dirt under the house.

[@nrfa6229]

So does he not address any mold if present? Just cover it up and your good to go? I can smell this Oder from my basement and it keeps getting stronger. Has to be my crawl space. Shouldn’t the mold on the wood and anywhere else be taken care of first? What’s the best way of doing that, bleach and water still? Then do drylok extreme on concrete, then foam board over that taping the seams, then 6 mil visqueen. This would be a vapor barrier.

[@thomasmorrison3279]

They sell mold remediation sprays you can use. There are many videos on youtube about removing mold. Vapor barrier helps a lot to eliminate the smell. Also, a giant dehumidifier helps to maintain a low humidity and not allow mold to grow. See Sanidry Dehumidifier or Sant Fe Dehumidifier. You can install yourself and save a lot of money with regard to vapor barrier. See Americover on the web. They sell all of the materials. Much cheaper than paying for labor.

[@coryn7459]

Never use bleach. Use peroxide and or vinegar. Then use cedar oil to help stop new growth. But this only works on beginners mold growth. Anything black needs replacing. Follow mold groups on Facebook and see what others have to say.....

[@donttreadonme1367]

What about insulation between the floor joists?

[@jpbutler1983]

From my understanding, you don't need both. If you insulation the walls and earth, the floor joists can remain open slats.

[@elmermt]

It looks as a high dollar transformation.

[@mcgannahanskyjellyfetti6854]

The FIRST thing that comes to mind when I hear crawlspace is John Wayne Gacy... 😯

[@mariyatakeuchi9009]

but can I laugh hysterically in it after I find out she gave it to ted?

[@kyle77777kb]

doesnt there need to be air circulation still

[@BasementSystemsInc]

Hi Kyle, when you seal the crawlspace, you no longer need open vents. Think of it like a short basement.

[@ellenrobisonfrost9717]

can you explain the part about the radon? How to Do It Right If you insist on building a house with a crawl space, here is our best advice on how to do it: Seal the crawl space ground with a plastic liner with a minimum 10 mil thickness. Extend the liner up on the walls of the crawl space to within two inches of the sill plate. Caulk the sill plate and seal up foundation vents with foam insulation. Install a soil gas/radon exhaust system that will pull air from beneath the liner and discharge it to the outside. This will prevent odors and radon from entering the living spaces of the home. Install a dedicated electronic dehumidifier in the crawl space set to 55% relative humidity. Install a humidistat in the crawl space with an alarm to warn if the humidity exceeds 70%

[@ruthmchugh5731]

Kyle B q

[@jackwright8159]

i have a crawl space on a add on to my house that has a concrete floor. it is very cold in winter and hot in summer. what is a good way to insulate it?

[@BasementSystemsInc]

Insulate the floor with Terrablock and the walls with foam board as in the video. The concrete floor makes no difference as concrete has no insulating value and is porous, allowing in water vapor as well. Sealing and insulating is the correct method.

[@jackwright8159]

thank you very much

[@Bajaheat]

+Basement Systems, Inc. what would you guess payback time is on a job like this?

[@OvhanDevos]

+Basement Systems, Inc. Is drylok paint just as good as the waterproofing you used in this video?

[@k9cop]

So no insulation under the floor in the joists?

[@seanm3226]

Keith Kitchin The house is conditioned space, the crawl space is (now) conditioned space. So theoretically, it is unnecessary to insulate between similar environments.

[@mrfreewayboy]

I'm sure you would still have home inspectors recommending to install vents.

[@LASTHOUR2024]

My mortgage company (Wells Fargo) forced us to put in vents in our crawlspace when we bought our home. I didn't want to do it but they would not allow it to pass inspection with our the vents. :(

[@efka5270]

They instal sum pump end fancy plastic but didnt instal drainage system araund exterior walls.First all dirt in crawlspase has to be leveled end drain system instaled.How you expect all that water travel true mauntains off dirt in to the pit.

[@malcomk]

2 month ago I laid down thick underlayment on the bottom floor of my crawl space which was pure dirt and sand. Now, the moisture from ground dirt stays under the underlayment for some time, not evaporating up; however, it makes the ground like jelly I can feel it when I walk over it. Obviously the moisture is being built up under the underlayment and I am afraid it will cause mold issue later. Got any advice? I am not sure covering up the dirt ground of crawl space is good idea after all...

[@clecher2011]

박효진 That moisture would otherwise be settling on you're joists creating possible mold issues. The vapor barrier does exactly what it sounds like. If the ground really is that moist I suspect other issues.

[@cleatusspengler2940]

If moldy joists are the worry- why arent more houses plagued with moldy joists? It happens but not from a vented unsealed crawl space- it is usually a drainage issue or a actually leak from above...

[@joshuadavid2259]

I sealed with 6mil visqueen and spray foamed 15 years ago still dont regret it

[@thomasmorrison3279]

Put vapor barrier, e.g., sold by Americover on the web.

[@efka5270]

in this video if they do that right they supposed to level dirt in crawlspace first.Then trence inside araund perimeter end instal drain system.Conect that drain in to the pit.Best would be to lay regular plastic end poor 4 inc concrete slab.

[@mredd1273]

why isent the ducking ensalated

[@higherthanbe4]

aren't you Dr Energy?

[@justinw123]

No thats his brother

[@lazyhomeowner]

this is encapsulation., not insulation. show us how to install it in the joists

[@thirdhandlv4231]

Its a nice place to hide my drug money.

[@kangokidkidd4037]

25 thousand dollars later still smells moldy

[@Rainaman-]

Ventilate it and insulate. Apply same logic as walls. jeez.

[@joshuadavid2259]

Lmao

[@analinares-nu7zt]

ESPECIALIS IN SCHOOL......😢😢very real...only same homes,,, nothing usually in the flor nothing👎👎...only...pipes and ducwrap nothing 👍

[@kangokidkidd4037]

Just demolish and start over..This time no crawlspace

[@dougcarter1924]

Feeling the pain but not many choices.

[@LongLe-rk8sh]

Crawl space protect with fish tank

[@ramyswar296]

Looks expensive as F

[@chirina5]

It is that looks like a 20k dollar job. If you need any help with our project let me know and I can guide you through it.

[@BlogTornado]

Or just get rid of the wood for good. Wood belongs in the forest and mushrooms too.

[@tombiby5892]

Good call. Replace the whole house with a foam fort.

[@rdoc]

@@tombiby5892 LOL good call!

[@_j_t_p_]

Build a fucking basement

[@efka5270]

Stay away from companies like this one.

[@fandabi7258]

efka why?