Crown Royale | First Ascent of a Huge 9a Trad Climb

Pete Whittaker climbs one of his hardest trad routes at Profilveggen in Norway, Crown Royale.
🎥 Massive thanks to Aaron Wahab for shooting this one. Check out his other stuff here ...
A note from Pete about the grade:
"It’s always tricky to grade climbs towards the upper end of your level, as every increase in perceived difficulty feels like a huge step, when in reality you’re not actually progressing in grade that much. However I do think it’s good to try and suggest something for new climbs as it helps with a consensus over time.
I took in two considerations when grading Crown Royale. 1 being a subjective feeling in comparison to other hard established trad lines, and 2 being a more objective perspective using the Darth Grader app.
1. The obvious route that I have to compare Crown Royale to is Recovery Drink (suggested as 8c+); Same wall, similar features, and a route I climbed back in 2019. To me CR felt harder overall than RD, but not by much, which is why my initial feeling about the route has been 8c+/9a.
2. I’ve seen a few other climbers using the Darth Grader app to help as a guide when grading new routes, so gave it ago and it algorithmed ‘soft 9a’. Of course using the app is still quite subjective, and the boulder/route grades I gave to individual sections of the climb could in fact be incorrect. However, again I used the ‘general consensus’ boulder grades of RD, plus other crack/boulders to help grade the sections of CR (i.e. this is easier than that… that is harder than this, etc).
All things considered I’ll suggest 9a (very low end), and look forward to see what future repeats think. It would seem harsh to suggest 8c, as to me it certainly feels harder than Cobra Crack (considered benchmark 8c) and Stranger Than Fiction (tough 8c imo), yet incredibly over generous to suggest 9a+ (cos that's just really hard isn't it). So I know it sits somewhere between those grades.
Either way whatever it settles at is all good, because if you like crack climbing, a few crimps and 100m pump fests, then you’re bound to have a jolly good time on this one"
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[@WideBoyz]

A note from Pete about the grade: "It’s always tricky to grade climbs towards the upper end of your level, as every increase in perceived difficulty feels like a huge step, when in reality you’re not actually progressing in grade that much. However I do think it’s good to try and suggest something for new climbs as it helps with a consensus over time. I took in two considerations when grading Crown Royale. 1 being a subjective feeling in comparison to other hard established trad lines, and 2 being a more objective perspective using the Darth Grader app. 1. The obvious route that I have to compare Crown Royale to is Recovery Drink (suggested as 8c+); Same wall, similar features, and a route I climbed back in 2019. To me CR felt harder overall than RD, but not by much, which is why my initial feeling about the route has been 8c+/9a. 2. I’ve seen a few other climbers using the Darth Grader app to help as a guide when grading new routes, so gave it ago and it algorithmed ‘soft 9a’. Of course using the app is still quite subjective, and the boulder/route grades I gave to individual sections of the climb could in fact be incorrect. However, again I used the ‘general consensus’ boulder grades of RD, plus other crack/boulders to help grade the sections of CR (i.e. this is easier than that… that is harder than this, etc). All things considered I’ll suggest 9a (but very low end), and look forward to see what future repeats think. It would seem harsh to suggest 8c, as to me it certainly feels harder than routes like Cobra Crack (considered benchmark 8c) and Stranger Than Fiction (tough 8c imo), yet incredibly over generous to suggest 9a+ (cos that's just really hard isn't it). So I know it sits somewhere between those grades. Either way whatever it settles at is all good, because if you like crack climbing, a few crimps and 100m pump fests, then you’re bound to have a jolly good time on this one"

[@stephenbarrett8861]

Which O grade would you use for the route?

[@jonsmith2240]

This is the most important grade Pete, the only thing that matters.@@stephenbarrett8861

[@hsonp_h]

Going by # of power screams, it’s gotta be 9a - never heard you make those sounds, Pete! Good effort, man.

[@paulheimweh]

The Darth Grader's data is also based on data from other routes or not? Then the question would be how many crack 9a's exist in this length. Probably not that many. Jakob Schubert had the same problem when grading “Project Big”. But its always good watching from a humble perspective and you definitely do

[@slihckyysworld]

o dog couldnt send this@@stephenbarrett8861

[@knopf44]

i love petes attitude: climbs a really hard project he's been working on for months; finally redpoints it; "what should we do now?"

[@TAS_CNX]

This man is such an inspiration

[@MikeBoyd]

Absolutely one of the craziest, most difficult trad routes ever. Mental stuff as always, Pete 😮 Really inspiring.

[@WideBoyz]

thanks Mike. hope the climbing has been going well for you this autumn :)

[@fahrenheit451able]

shredding the knar

[@jimbailey9915]

Yes that looked "quite tricky", well done Pete !

[@boogaloo4640]

I've just discovered that I can hold my breath for a lot longer than I thought I could. Outstanding, Pete

[@beardymike77]

Just want to say Pete, I really feel a huge amount of pride and gratitude watching you climb these things trusting your life to something I designed. That last runout, holy cow. I mean all the runouts, but particularly that one. Total beast...

[@stelz750]

Awesome, well done Pete. I really enjoy the extended full send footage, no music. You get to hear the sounds of the wall, the air around, the breath. I think any true climber appreciates that.

This amazing to watch. Unbelievable to see the tactics to pull of a 9a trad route like pulling up an extra rack and down climbing the crux. But my favorite is to see the seemingly endless tank of try hard from Pete

[@dougthebuilder1]

What the hell, I've just made a lovely pot of yorkshire tea too, sat down to watch some climbing content and this has been uploaded. Perfect Sunday eve

[@tobysegar]

Looks kinda tricky mate 😂😂 boat load of inspiration that

[@ryancampbell9803]

You're getting bloody good with your editing Pete. When are we going to see some more of Mari climbing. Shes badass and has a soothing voice

[@Cragdognamedbear]

That no hands rest is incredible.

[@TheStuffofDaydreams]

I geeked out so hard cause it looks like my favorite shot of Ondra on Silence🤩😂

[@loveroos627]

Find someone who hugs you the way Mari hugs Pete after he sends 9a crack

[@gigglysamentz2021]

18:48 You're so high the kneepad takes about 5 seconds to touch the ground XD

[@androgynousmaggot9389]

20:44 it's the same look my kid had after climbing a huge tree in our backyard when she was 8! It's so inspiring seeing Pete having the same passion and joy a kid has!🤟

[@mw5360]

What a fucking beast. Every video where he's pushing it like this i think back to that UKC lad on the dynamics of change video saying "if he keeps it up it'll be really interesting to see what he does with his career' back when he was 17. Wild.

[@d3.lu.sional]

I was really impressed by the rock quality on this, it looks just absolutely bomber🤤 Thank you Pete for putting out a minimally stylized video displaying one of the hardest gear lines in the world. This is cutting edge, and it speaks for itself. Cheers, and congratulations :'-)

[@MiguelClimbs]

Congrats on an amazing send Pete! Aaron's shots are astounding though! 🔥

[@jacobchrist999]

Great video! I love that the whole climb was without music, made it much more "real".

[@craglevcarboncapture]

Wow, that's a beyond impressive effort Pete! You've got to have a pretty huge tank to tackle 100m of non-stop steep, hard climbing without pitching it out.

[@ericconnor3728]

me at the beginning: "doesnt look too steep...oh, seems windy, judging from the hood." Switch to the wide shot: "holy moly, it's fking overhanging. That was not the wind🤣"

[@theopinson3851]

That runout at the end…😮😮

[@nic_20043]

Can't thank them enough for putting videos like this out for anyone to see. So awesome to watch Pete push himself, he never gives up. Was a bit worried at 19:00 with how low the last piece was, but I'm sure he found a gear placement prepping for this that he can trust to catch that fall.

[@jamesbaker9374]

You guys have been releasing some amazing content recently keep up the effort 👊🏼

[@Alan-gi2ku]

Absolutely badass. Wasn’t expecting that heel hook. World class stamina, like Salvador Sanchez level.

[@dangin-1000]

what a pleasure to watch... a chill crag session, a professional in his element, a bit of a giggle, a bit of piano, all vibes

[@ewan_young]

a bit more than a chill crag session I would say !

[@reedpaxman717]

I've been waiting for this! Incredible job Pete, this is definitely one of the best bits of climbing I've seen all year. Way to go, and thanks for sharing it with all of us!

[@tallky]

Congrats Pete! Looks insane as usual. This one has been shot very well, too. Keep that Aaron fella around :)

[@sparrowman6077]

Sick send buddy! I’ve been waiting to see this footage 🤙 keep it up Pete! Cheers from Tennessee in the USA

[@antonelloguadambino7974]

20:53 Pete you are jacked, respect

[@bullionsean456]

Just as impressive (if not more) than some of the long 5.15 sport routes being put up lately. Congrats Pete.

[@PB-sk9jn]

Amazing, a big big trad grade. Wonder how long till it sees a repeat! Looks reasonably safe for the grade and on good rock.

[@AutonomousPlayground]

this was so enjoyable to watch mate... Always love a new video of Pete's climbing. That sounded like an absolute BATTLE! Thanks so much.

[@michaltheb]

Sweaty palms, check, reminded myself to breath, check, glued to the screen, check. The world appreciates what you are giving to the climbing community Pete, you are a bloody legend and a gift to us all!

[@TrebleWing]

Never seen that re-rack method before, that put a smile on my face.

[@wolfgangpokorski4483]

What an amazing line and what a nice and humorous guy to give it the first ascent. Always love your videos, from the cellar, from the crags. This is an outstanding one ❤.

[@dec4dent]

Cracking effort Pete! Congrats on getting it done and all the work you put in for it

[@jusp9533]

so modest & nonchalant. Epic & huge magnificent route!

[@nigelpearson1403]

Superb effort on an amazing looking route. Gripping film too

[@LukeSeed]

This video is epically shot. Bravo Aaron Wahab

[@peterlustig9554]

I loved most the „no hands rest“ up side down.

[@KenWAnderson]

Pete, continue to stay safe please. You're amazing . . . and I've come to "meet you" through Storror hang competitions. ;) The longer I watch, the more incredible the climb, strength, perseverance . . . ! Glad you had an embrace from a friend at the end!

[@ekf20]

Incredible - immense effort and beautifully measured at the same time. This is what months of dedicated work looks like!

[@dothedrew93]

Pete, you never cease to amaze and inspire a newcomer like me. Crack on!

[@Papershields001]

Pete getting scary high above his last piece, you can tell this man was born half lemur.

[@brakza]

So freakin inspiring to watch! The style Pete have while climbing, is out of this world! Good job on the send 🎉

[@ferrells0987]

Amazing video! Amazing climb. Would loved to have seen Pete untie and solo the top out.

[@dennislrobertson]

Pete is climbing at such a high level of climbing it is hard to imagine repeating some of the climbs he has done!

[@justingabriele3881]

This is insane. Record breaking, mind boggling stuff

[@aclimbingmitch]

That looked so hard! Love watching your sends. Keep up the solid work.

[@stefanomorandi7150]

"its quite tricky" 😂🤣😂🤣 you are a beast Pete, congrats

[@ianwoodvine5558]

Holy crap - Pete in true beast mode 👏👏👏👏👏👏 that looked terrifying but awesome at the same time

[@PeakDistrictBouldering]

Congratulations Pete. Amazing effort. The side camera angles are great on this - you can lose the sense of how steep/overhung this wall is with the straight-down view. Then you see the side shot and think 'holy crap.....the pump! The pump!!' Also, can you imagine climbing at the top with the weight of 100m of rope hanging off your harness!?

[@oresteszoupanos]

I think you've just about earned a nice cuppa tea, Pete.

[@TheRedWon]

What an epic pitch. Nice job, Pete!

[@rootsladakh]

The runout towards the top 🫡

[@lavericklavericklave]

The coolest guy in climbing

[@LGJ1]

Outstanding stuff! Such an inspiring climber.

[@maxdilcon5679]

Pete really is killing it atm

[@KieranJDuncan]

Absolutely mega... nice one Pete. Great footage too!!

[@ebenpirie1585]

Not only was that route wide it was so fricking long, great send Pete!

[@summitseekersexperience]

Great film, thanks for sharing and putting together all the logistical stuff to film it well. You motivate me!!!

[@Hopesfallout]

This climb looks gnarly, but the spot is amazing, congrats!

[@DreIsGoneFission]

“Sustained” is an understatement. Every time I thought “thank heavens he got to the end!” You entered another crux hahaha

[@vincentminutelli3454]

that was such a joy to watch , badass!!

[@realcheese7]

That rock looked MEAN! Well done!

[@heighRick]

Amazing effort Pete - GG. Thanks, helps a lot!

[@YannCamusBlissClimbing]

Congrats on the climb!!! Thanks for sharing great videos 😊

[@cern1999sb]

The runout on your gear placements towards the end had my palms sweating!

[@gwilhemmonnet982]

Did we just hear Pete's effort noises ? Definitely 9a

[@Kaygu_]

That rope drag looked massive! Super impressive climb. Cheers

[@chaosengine4597]

Stunning! What an amazing effort.

[@thomasbaggerman]

Sick send! The fact that you climb this without a helmet blows my mind though!!

[@TesterAnimal1]

No loose rocks above to fall on him.

[@bongosock]

Those are some pretty 'engaging' run-outs up the top there, Pete!

[@ClimbAnatolia]

those deadpoint jams are mindblowing

[@meisers.kletterecke]

impressiv as alawys....mindblown again...congrats pete!!!!!

[@BreefinsKnowsBest]

Unbelievable stamina on that Pete! Awesome job 🎉

[@Stickmayne]

Sometimes I just have to remind myself that the main character is still alive at the end of the video. You must have covered 100 feet with those last two pieces and I was stressing. What an incredible effort.

[@tranquil_slime870]

Absolutely epic. Great job Pete!

[@iR3vil4te]

Honest question: does anyone climb trad/crack harder than Pete? Unless I’m missing some obvious names I’ve just never heard of he seems by far and away the best at what he does. Amazing.

[@elliarts]

For trad, Dave McLeod and a few others are on a similar level. Hard to say who's the best though, for cracks Pete might be the best.

[@chrishill5511]

Keep an eye on Conor Herson. A youngster with huge potential.

[@elliarts]

Will check him out ;)@@chrishill5511

[@krakenattackin7617]

Several other people have climbed 14c cracks but Pete is the only to propose a 14d crack. Jacopo Larcher and James Pearson have climbed "Tribe," which is a trad climbed suspected to be around 14d. James Pearson has also climbed "Bon Voyage," another trad route which he said is the hardest he's done (which would also put it around 14d/15a), but he hasn't named a specific grade yet. Connor Herson will probably be the best crack and trad climber in the future, as he's already sent a few 14c trad routes by only age 20!

[@WideBoyz]

This one is a mixture of face and Crack, certainly not a pure crack like the desert splitters we've been climbing recently. Connor Herson is the one to follow for the future,already smashing the current hardest trad cracks and more general traddy routes. Can't wait to see what the next few years bring for him 😀💪

[@silasj.d16]

The backstepping near the end had me stressed lol! Nice one!

[@CollinGill7]

9a FA on wet rock, absolutely incredible! well done pete

[@Bubblemaker1987]

So cool!! 😍. I have a question about foot placements: In some clips of pro climbers I see foot placements that to me seem likely to result in a flip if you fall. In this clip most obviously (and seemingly avoidable): -Between 15:58 and 15:59 -Between 18:00 and 18:15 And maybe less avoidable at 10:47 I'm curious about your (or the community's) thoughts on this. Am I wrong in seeing this would result in a flip? Or do you simply accept the risk? Would you place your feet otherwise if you'd do the route again? As a beginning lead climber this interests me. Especially when a rope zigzags it sometimes seems unavoidable to be in a position where my foot either catches the rope or the quickdraw if I fall. Thanks for the great content!

[@Vigepra]

awesome archive pete

[@Ja50nkAt]

It's not just doing the hard moves but also pulling that rope up with you through all the drag, makes it that much harder. That's got to be what 15 pounds of rope he's pulling up plus drag near the end, could feel like 30 pounds! Amazing stuff!

[@JoalinAventura]

Absolutely awesome💪🏼

[@Mark_R_]

Proper inspiring mate, good on ya!

[@benphillips1986]

Awesome line.

[@atomic7680]

The color grading on this one is also really good 🙏🏻👌🏻

[@nicolacornolti]

You’re spoiling us boys, this looked incredible

[@michaelwilkinson1137]

absolute beast 👑

[@martinandreasvik6505]

Awesome Pete. Now you can hold a Norwegian "Rissfest"!

[@BK-ff7ty]

Well done Pete. I fucking love this channel 👏

[@babylonbroken]

Pete is a beast. A tea and scone powered beast.

[@airspeed159]

interesting tactics throughout, the tagline to pull up gear surprised me, makes sense though!

[@letsallbe-friends1120]

Superhuman effort mate! 🙌🙌🙌

[@MrTJansen]

Pete, you are an absolute beast.

[@ezramorency7422]

Way to go Pete! I was clapping at the end!

[@ryanbadtke]

You ran out that last section a ton. Wow, I was nervous watching it!

[@cooperwebb-knudson1790]

Incredible to watch!!