Cub Cadet Dozer Build, S2:E8 Body Shop Edition!

Seat, Fenders, Foot Well Panels, Tunnel Cover, Tool Box. We finish up the fabrication of the dozer's remaining body panels, and get set up for the final push to add the blade and hydraulics!
Using parts from two vintage Cub Cadet garden tractors, along with metal fabrication and welding work, we are building a mini dozer from (almost) scratch.
I use a Langmuir Systems Crossfire Pro plasma table with a Razorcut 45CNC plasma cutter and a machine torch to create many needed parts. At times we shift to the Bridgeport-clone knee/vertical mill or South Bend 10 inch lathe to complete a machining step. Occasionally, the South Bend shaper or the Logan lathe is called on for specialty work.
A Hobart Handler welder is my primary MIG welder, and it comes into play at nearly every step. If I'm not running the welder, an Oxy/Acetylene torch or the Eastwood Cut 40 plasma cutter is fired up for some molten metal removal.
Making a mini-dozer will add to the collection of equipment that I previously built, including the mini-motor grader and the tandem axle Cub Cadet dump truck/gator.
Dewalt and Makita grinders and drills, eVolution metal cutting saws, a Grizzly metal cutting band saw and Jet grinders and sanders see regular use in my projects.

[@rebelwithoutapplause7452]

Don't make it a burden to use, flexibility is the foundation of innovation :)

[@patriciabranch9276]

Congratulations Frank. I'm still amazed at the details that you have put in the building of your projects. Thank you I'm learning a lot . Keep up the great work. Edward Smith.

[@mr.baseball8332]

Frank you’re knocking it out of the park, toys aren’t practical! No 3 point , lol keep the good looks going, great job!

[@budshultz1442]

Hello Frank! Great job and great video! Just one suggestion; Round the sharp corners on the fenders! Looks like a real "owie" about to happen! Best of luck!

[@lorenmeyer5290]

WOW FRANK THAT IS AWESOME! I THINK THE THREE HITCH NEEDS TO GO NO THE REAR! THEN YOU CAN PUT THE KUBOTA ATTACHMENTS ON MUCH EASIER! THEN THE SIX WAY ON THE FRONT! ALWAYS LOVE WATCHING!

[@thomasswan817]

I like to take this time to say thank you I in joy watching your videos I wish that could do some of the thing you do. i think you

[@johncarlson6433]

Make it the way it will be the most convenient for you to use it. You've done an excellent job so far keep up the good work!!👍

[@garymaltby4303]

Great job Frank, I am always amazed at your creativity and talent at building, from wood or metal.

[@shynsly01]

I'm inclined to agree, the more "realistic" blade setup would be better, but it's your project, and an awesome one, either way.

[@nicktrask4717]

Hi frank I love watching your dozer builds and I think you should do a backhoe next

[@hank5655]

Frank you have done an outstanding job, just a note when your motor was running it was showing a bad wire in the front of the motor running from the left side to the right sparking so you would want to crank it up in the dark and look in the front of the motor you will see the display!! Take Care

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

Pulleys rubbing a bit. Not electrical.

[@bamadigger4342]

Great time to just "show off" and it was appropriate at the time. Just a spinning tractor!! Love it. That is why when I get your notifications i stop what I'm watching and go to your video.

[@androidmobile9280]

I enjoy watching you build. You are talented and vary crafty. You should have a tv series cause I’d watch it every week. As I can’t wait for your next video working on this project. I love how this all came out so far I wish I could build something like this

[@ohcrapwhatsnext]

Now i can sleep better that you have protected your legs....What a great idea....Safety is job #1.... Great work for sure...You remind me of young boy on a new toy when i see you driving your creation.... This job reminds me of my father who tinkered as well. He made some creations on a sears tractor once and placed a large steel milk can on the rear hitch for weight. I planted my butt on that can and he decided to go up an embankment. I felt the can move down closer to the ground, which meant the front was lifting up. I jumped of the milk can and my calf got hooked on a trapezoid metal support he used to hold the milk can, and i cut my calf open to about 14 stitches and the tractor went over. My father made it off and he was laughing like a nut. Mom came out and got me and we went to the hospital... What a crazy dad...hahaha Thought i would share...

[@chadb83731]

Hi Frank, you have done an absolute amazing job on this project. I love watching the transformation of the cub cadet from the beginning to now. It has definitely come a long way congrats on your success thus far. Keep up the great work. You have worked so hard to keep this build true to mini dozer look and functionality. I personally would say stay par to the course and keep the blade build true to the cat dozer design. Just my opinion not that It makes any difference. At then end of the day it's your baby an It comes down to what you feel works best for you. Good luck!!! Can't wait for the next episode. Until then take care.

[@stigrunetefke2157]

Cool mini Dozer. :) You have some lovely dogs. :)

[@patrickcolahan7499]

I hesitate to give my opinion, but since you asked. Most dozers use two arms that pivot about 2/3 the way down the track box and then are connected by a cross piece in front of the dozer. This would give you up and down with two cylinders. You can then use two hyd cylinders that allow you to angle the blade to the left or right. There is a lot of force being applied to the blade and the two arms would provide good support and apply downward force to the tracks. For the up and down you can use two valves so you could angle the blade down on one edge or the other or just one valve so you raise or lower both together. For the tilt, you can use one value to the two cylinders and just hook them up opposite so when you move lever in one direct one cylinder raises and the other lowers and vice versa. A winch would be cool, and I would put it on the outside into the stronger rectangular tubing over the sheetmetal seat box. It has been my experience if you try to make something do too many things that they rarely do anything well. Just my $0.02 worth.

[@bob5074]

I was on team three point hitch after you described it’s flexibility. When I saw the footage of you driving the dozer, I pictured this set-up. I also pictured a blade that mounts outside the tracks, like a traditional dozer. With the proportions that you’ve built this machine, a traditional dozer blade will look 10 times better. Plus it may give you a better way to climb up onto the machine and get into the seat without stepping on the track.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

The blade that mounts outside the tracks would be only a 4 way blade--unable to angle right or left. I agree, it would look better (more like the D10) but limits the dozer to straight pushing, unable to push snow, (or dirt) for example, to the right or left.

[@larrysmart2805]

I have a couple of suggestions. First, the fasteners connecting the tunnel to the fender should have the bolt on the inside so that you don't snag your pants or cut yourself. Second, the fenders need a one inch radius on the corners to improve the looks and for added safety.

[@SHarris64]

In regards to the blade mount… I like the idea of a three point hitch for maneuverability, but in order to keep it looking like a D10 you could run two arms from the blade to a telescoping beam that runs down the side of the undercarriage. When the blade pivots from side to side the hinge pins would move and the beam would telescope out on one side and telescope in on the other. The main beam would of course pivot on the sides of the undercarriage. The three point hitch would do the work and the side beams keep the look of a mini dozer. Like the video series… look forward to new videos.

[@TheNeo519]

I've watched this project from the beginning. Love the work. I like how you stayed with the idea/ ideas you had. This world is full of people that will say thats wrong that won't work ect. Keep up the great work. I need some of your tools lol.

[@alleznape]

Been watching your project from the beginning but this is my first comment. You've done an outstanding job fabricating the machine. I couldn't help but notice all the weight you added and I'm surprised it works so well with the drive train it has. You mentioned adding growsers a few episodes ago. I added 1 1/2 inch growsers to a John Deer 1010 loader about 15 years ago so I could use a dozer blade. It worked fairly well but I had to minimize my turns or the steering clutches would overheat, particularly on soft ground. This was a 13000 lb machine and the extra load of the growsers taxed it to the limit. That said I would recommend you be conservative with your growser size. Great work and good luck with the rest of your project.

[@jeffreyshier9021]

If I had a vote it would be for authenticity, but you do you. Very cool either way.

[@johnalexander4356]

I like the way the cats have steel bars running from the middle of the track support forward to a heavy bar connecting the forward ends and providing a connection point to the rear of your blade assembly. That connection could provide for blade rotation, tilt, and swing. If that point was a trailer ball, removal of the blade could be accomplished and allow you to push trailers, ect. Use a single cylinder to raise the assembly behind the ball and 3 cylinders to do the rest of the blade movements. I can visualize the arrangement but it isn't easy to describe. The ball could easily be on 2 by 2 receiver. And regular hydraulics connections on the grill so it's all removable.

[@williambryant5946]

If the trailer ball is mounted vertically he'd have to make the pivoting cup go on top of it attaching the cup to the blade sideways putting all the pushing force where the ball is mounted. If the trailer ball is mounted horizontally the cup would be vertical or flat on the blade that way the pushing forces would go through the ball and blade frame arms all the way back to the tractor frame. Just my thoughts.

[@johnalexander4356]

@@williambryant5946 good points. There are numerous different types of ball couplers. I can think of a couple that would easily handle the stresses. And if a 2" receiver hitch is used then swapping one setup for a different would be easy. But I know it's not a perfect solution and each one of us looking at the challenge would find other options . At any rate, Frank is engineering the Cat and he has definitely shown the skills to make it work!

[@bradley3549]

I think a Three point link is a great idea. You could probably do something akin to a 4-point hitch as well to tighten it up too the chassis a little bit if that was a concern, while still maintaining compatibilty with three point implements.

[@equinoxtacticalsupply7732]

I like the ball hitch idea. It would be much more like a larger dozer with a six way blade.

[@timothybaker8234]

I’m glad you used the thicker sheet. If you threw a track it could potentially take off your leg.

[@rjay1674]

That thing looks cool as hell driving down the road. Nice job Frank.😎

[@jackriley4104]

Weld a couple of Reece hitch receivers one on each side, then mount the pins for three-point on hitch brackets then when you want them pin them on and when not needed make a front bumper to slide in them. and if you want a three-point on the rear just add receivers on the back.

[@306MikeandTricia]

Frank - my vote is option two. I like the idea of a U joint. Think the 3 point hitch system will be clumsy and too far ahead of machine.

[@fred-san]

Proud of you, all this good work.. '& a few jalous -ü- .

[@rebelwithoutapplause7452]

I can't wait for the blade!... i love the two dudes you have hanging around, crunchin' up treats as well :)

[@Redneckmfg]

Forward Thinking is always a good idea... and you have plenty of that !!! Great Job...

[@comptonbailey1021]

Looking forward to the Cub-Cadet Crane Tractor that will lift the Cub-Cadet Dozer Tractor onto the Cub-Cadet Flatbed Tow Rescue Tractor that will then tow the broken Cub-Cadet Dozer Tractor back to the Franken-Tractor shop

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

LOL

[@anthonyearls2237]

Like a kid in a candy store I love this build keep up the great work

[@danmartin9558]

Enamel paint with foam rollers gives great results with out over spray

[@Crewsy]

My first thought when you mentioned the 3 point setup was that the blade would end up way out in front. Never figured it would be as much as you mentioned a bit later. Obviously it’s your machine but I think the charm of the entire build was to have it look like a CAT dozer which means for a 6 way blade the blade arms are inside the tracks and a 4 way blade the arms are outside the tracks.

[@joshbennett2762]

Put a truck winch on the back with a removable arch and you would have one heck of a little firewood getter

[@Alasdairryan]

In my opinion Stick your 3 point hitch on the back (Its a good idea just not the front) build a blade for the front

[@edheath4571]

Just a suggestion, and perhaps you have it in mind. But it seems that a mechanical neutral detent for the steering handles would help find the real neutral when you engage the drive belt. That way the tractor won't creep forward (or reverse) on you when the belt is engaged.

[@rammy630]

If you look in that NAPA calendar there are two cars that I restored ,1970 GTO Judges! Nice job on the dozer...

[@hendersonlandworks6158]

Looks good sir! Think you should do a 4 way blade, would be simple with just 3 cylinders and do a three point hitch on the rear!

[@rmacsrmaddog2192]

I would go for the ball hitch and keep it the same as a dozer. I would also paint the sprockets and rollers yellow. The undercarriage of dozers is usually the same color as the body. A roll cage and a ripper on the back would top it off! Iol

[@54jars51]

I would throw out of comment to you but you have all the right ideas why this job I love your work keep it up

[@Sludge73]

I'm not feeling the 3 point idea, but it'd be a more practical machine. It's kick ass as it sits. You're killing it. Thanks for sharing. I appreciate it.

[@vic745]

Nice job Frank. Always looking forward for new videos

[@whathobogrohknows]

such a cool project!!! I think I’d build a regular style dozer blade on the front. And have a 3 point on the rear instead

[@billjones9275]

I like your idea of the 2 inch receiver hitch that you wood have blade in front and than tha three way in the back even using a winch that can be used both front or back Looking forward to your thoughts !!!

[@kevinclark4349]

I think a better idea would be a military hitch that gives you motion for every direction you want to go

[@elevator9592]

A lot of dozers have a guard on the side of the tracks to keep some of the dirt and mud from the under carriage.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

I'm looking at ways to do that.

[@timsaunders8384]

Don't forget to allow room for the grawsers / cleats when making the fenders.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

Yes, the right side is a bit close but I raise it up in the next episode or two. The right tension wheel it a bit taller than the left for some reason, so it wound up closer. It gets fixed. Lots to do before the grousers happen, but they are coming!

[@tomlee7966]

suggestion, make the blade control foot control like the old bobcats, your hands are going to be pretty busy

[@bradman4]

You have the scale nailed and it manoeuvres well. Looking forward to seeing what you decide on with the blade and hitches. Great job mate.

[@mrl3guy]

Man I love it.

[@daviddamico4288]

Good paint is por15 it’s made to protect from rusting , looks good .

[@jimfarris9671]

I love the paddle wheel grunding Disk. It makes my welding so much better lol

[@bobwallace5257]

Hi Frank, it’s looking great! My concern is all the sharp edges around the drivers seat. Have you considered slotting tubing to fit over the edges ?

[@rickybeaugie668]

Hi Frank,Canada calling again like the 3 point idea much more versatile put it on the back to you could mount a ripper or possibly tiller,brush cutter .Any way looking Good.Have a great day.

[@alphonsotate2982]

Thanks Frank much safer.

[@letadixon3936]

Really enjoyed your videos. Stay safe.

[@dozer1642]

Brutus and Butch look to be neglected and unloved. 😂👍✌️

[@quinceyfoose4276]

Frank love the build so far wow seen every one of the vids on this build good job on that price of equipment

[@jameslovingood5624]

I think you should make the blade look to scale like a dozer and not a 3 point on the front. Instead of the hitch ball idea, you could use the replacement lift arm ends from a tractor 3 point. These would allow for bearing service as well as could allow for movement.

[@patriciamiller642]

You should weld some small pieces of angle on each track pad for better traction. You'll need it when you put a blade on it good luck

[@larslarson2319]

You have put all the work into making it look like a dozer, put a dozer blade on the front and a 3pt hitch on the rear.

[@texgibson6236]

AP put the Ripper harada's in the back of the Dozer it will look like a dozer and most of those are small ones have four point blade moving it is on a ball

[@grandpa-of-3898]

I hope your next project is a backhoe that would be cool

[@had2galsinthebooth]

What if it was a tracked loader? With a 4-in-1 bucket it would also serve as a dozer. You could use the endless skid loader attachements for inspiration to make your own quick change ones to fit. Maybe put the 3-point on back and have a winch you could use front or back. LOL,I have no aptitude or space to do any of that,but,I have ideas! Thanks for your content. Thumbed up!

[@williambryant5946]

I'd say go with a regular dozer look on the front and put a three point hitch on the back that has down pressure as well as up and that way you'd be able to mount a ripper frame on the back later if wanted and this would also give you the place to mount a trailer hitch ball for moving a trailer. The three way on the front sticking out so far would make it look more like a snow plow on a tracked mower than an actual mini dozer where the blade is closer to the tractor. I guess you've studied the ways a dozer blade mounts to a tractor and the different ways it can be done. With using a trailer ball for the front I'd think it would need to stick straight out from the front rather than up and down so you can get the blade to angle forward, back, down, and up. If it was mounted like you do to haul a trailer I don't think that would work the way the blade would be mounted. Mounting it straight out would put the forces of pushing back to the frame but mounting it with the ball straight up you'd have to fit a cup over it attached to the blade putting the pushing forces on the ball itself instead of going all the way back to the frame. I don't know if I'm making sense or not but making like a dozer is made would be better than a three point hitch type deal. Using a trailer ball is a good idea as a middle attachment and pivot point but don't put it vertical like it would be to pull a trailer, put it with the treads horizontal. You'd only need 3 cylinders on the blade. One on each side which would lift the blade up and down and angle the individual side up and down like cutting a ditch and the third for angling it forward and backward or keeping it straight. The only thing you'd need a fourth for would be to roll the top of the entire blade forward or backward. Like changing the angle of the cutting blade on a motor grader to either cut or carry material. These are my thoughts on what would look better and more like a dozer and what I think would work better anyway. This has been an awesome build series to watch. Really enjoying seeing this take shape. Good video. Stay well. -Wil 👍

[@anthonybarron7296]

Yes Frank I seen some sparkling at the front. And I think the blade sticking out to far in front of the dozer would take away from it idk how else it could be done but I'm sure you'll figure it out and it'll look as good and work like a champ. Love watching keep it up it's gonna look great. I can't hardly wait to see it all finished 😄 but I do know all that stuff takes a heck of a lot of engineering to get everything right but I know your going to get it. So keep up the great work 👏 it's so neat the way it's turning around like a real big one does its so cool looking lol

[@gordonwilloughby8793]

I would lean toward a 3 point hitch but however you mount the blade make sure it has enough vertical travel to come up high enough and be able to go slightly below level. I have had 3 small tractors with a blade. I wished the blade could come up higher on all of them. They all had the blade on the front.They all could go slightly below level which was fine but wouldn't go up high enough. I don't think they would go higher than 4 or 5 inches off the ground. Have a float position on the control rather than having a slot that allows the blade to float because you may want to cut some soil or ice loose.

[@reg.treg.t]

Frank look at putting some protection in the front of the foot wells your feet look vulnerable you will be surprised what the tracks will throw up when reversing

[@michaelkoon8371]

Frank i think it wouldlook better if not safer if you would weld a nother plate over the tracks going down the tracks just past the operaters place

[@fredcarlson5775]

I like the ball hitch idea it's more to scale on the fenders I suggest welding the nuts at the top

[@jamesh9241]

I am really surprised that you didn't use a spring system to return the control handles back to a neutral position when released. Most equipment of this type is set up so if something happens to the operator and they release the controls the machine immediately comes to a stop. With the friction system you are using the dozer would continue in the last control setting until it hit something that it couldn't move.

[@minitractors1885]

The problem with the spring is if your moving and want to ajust your blade you half to drive with 1 hand...

[@jamesh9241]

@@minitractors1885 This is true, but with controls that are that close together I normally end up driving with one hand anyway.

[@richardniswander6090]

Nice work Frank. I wish you would make the rear looking from the rear look like a real dozer, just a suggestion.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

How would you change it? I was thinking about a winch.

[@WHJeffB]

Outstanding! While the high mount sprocket on CAT's does the actual driving of the tracks (which I'm sure you know), what you've done here is pretty damn incredible. Love your shop toys! I hope to build a shop something like yours in retirement and do some fabrication projects in my hopefully lengthy retirement.

[@johnmclaren3480]

Hi Need to close in the front of the fenders and bolt to the chassis to stop sticks also to support that leading edge of the fenders from being bent and catch the tracks??

[@willied7759]

I wonder if you could do some sort of tilt/angle/lift mechanism that excepts skid steer quick attach. Really though the weight of the machine even with the tracks and extra drive components will hamper it really doing work with other three point attachments. I would just stick with a traditional dozer blade set up and keep it as a Cub dozer. I think with the way you’ve designed and built it now it’s best work will be pushing.

[@lesgobrandon]

I like the build but I’m here for the dogs. Lol.

[@kensnyder9372]

I ended up using a Kenworth universal that came off the transmission so i would have that slip joint to roll left to right plus to angle it left to right and of course to roll it over or roll it back . I got it off of a heavy duty dump truck , it took a couple try's to get mounted on the blade at the right height . I used aluminium cylinders to cut down on the weight.........Just my two cents......................

[@johnchassie-rideout4927]

Why not a hydraulic cylinder from just in front of the foot well to the blade and a shorter one mounted to the front of the tractor to the middle of the first cylinder. Then the same on the other side of the tractor. That would give to up, down, left, right and tilt side to side. Then one cylinder up front to pitch the blade. All blade mounts would have to be heim joint Style. This would keep the blade close to the front. Put the 3 point hitch on the back to run attachments like a set of ripper Teeth. The build is coming along great

[@tubafarmmachine]

Looks nice Frank. When you started the engine and was ready to take it for a test drive I noticed from the camera view that there is some sparking going on at the base of the front engine area. You may have a short or something rubbing.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

pulleys rubbing a bit.

[@donhull3857]

I would go with the true Dozer blade

[@kentmckean6795]

36:36 Your manual clutch is throwing sparks at the front of the engine when it is in the disengaged position. Looks like it stops throwing sparks when you engage the belt pulley.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

yep.

[@sixgun2719]

I have an idea about your levers being touchy. Put a damper on each of them that will fix the problem. A damper will smooth out the forward and reverse movement.

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

They have friction pads on them, which are essentially dampeners.

[@MarkSmith-wu8rh]

Use the three point later on for a root rake on the rear

[@slucas601]

@36:27 Do I see sparks through the grill opening? Excellent work. Thank you for bringing us along with you on this project.

[@rickaser2383]

Frank, please round the corners on the fenders; at least on the trailing edges. Your legs will thank you. I like the practicality of the 3 pint, how about shortening the links to still use it but keep the close coupled blade look. And if ambitious, you could build some cosmetic blade links outboard of the tracks. looking really nice,

[@woodandmetalshoptime8048]

Pretty much what I wound up doing. Doesn't stick out like a 3 Pt but pretty much is.

[@philthelawnman]

So glad to see those leg panels. Just thinking of you getting hurt makes me cringe. I thought about pulling my cub cadets out and start doing something

[@jamesconstantine1851]

I see sparks in front when you had it running in the shop

[@hillonwheels8838]

I saw the same thing and it looks to be coming from the belt tensioner setup

[@insAneTunA]

It is looking good Frank. Maybe that you can do the 3 link hitch system and make something that makes it look like an "original" dozer, something made from light weight steel while they are not functional parts, like you did with the sprockets. I can fully understand why you would pick the 3 link hitch system, it is much more versatile, and you can attach a blade that you already have. Anyway, big thumbs up!👍 My solidarity and love goes out to Ukrainian people who are under a horrible attack from the Russian War criminals. 💙💛✊✊

[@anthonybarron7296]

Oh yes love those dogs Brutis and Buchie or Butchy lol it's almost like they're family I love German Shepard's. I had a German Police dog once and he got hit by this big high four wheel drive truck hit him not hard but it rubshered his splen hated it but I live close to the road and I need fence for the one I have now so she stays with me in my house she's a good one though lol. There a man's best friend for sure

[@cyroment3544]

Just my vote I think you should stick with the realistic blade and you can always put a 3 point on the back.

[@Thecowboy1950]

I think it would mount the implements to far forward

[@rebelwithoutapplause7452]

Will you use 2 foot pedals to control the blade up and down? If you do, you could use forward and reverse hand levers while picking the blade or attachment up and down. Your blade adjustments could be done at rest..

[@dylanhockaday9878]

U can also youse a u joint to work for the blade

[@lestadsht]

Watching it running it looks like you have too much deflection on the top of the tracks, a single roller set on each side may be needed

[@j.c.vanniekerk7761]

I would get long 3 point armes and mount them back on the frame so that is only petroedsa a foot or a bit more and bild uprights onto the botom two links and conect them with an arm that is conected with pines so that is can pivit and attach your toplink to that bare then it might look pretty scale

[@thomasbailey8306]

Its too bad You cant put the 3 point hitch on back. And build a C-Frame for front out of 2x6 Steel Box beam. Then make a Hitch on front like for the Skid steer attachments. For front.Just suggestions The little Dozer is coming along nicely..Are You going to add Grousers Too each of the Pads on the tracks. So you get better Traction.