Cutech 10-Inch Jointer Review

[@peterbrown8513]

I have the 8" using for the past 4 years and it works well at first, but after 2 years i started experiencing vibration and noise dew to bearing problems, and even the sharf wears inside the bearing, then the motor housing started to fall apart, the plastic that made the motor housing is too week, I bought new motor and cutterhead and bearing from wen products for half the price of what cutech is selling theirs for,(and its the same thing, no difference) i want to buy the 10"but am scared, because if they don't improve the quality of the motor and bearing system it won't last a year before problem, even the material that makes the main sharf is too soft.

[@scubaguy5455]

I ordered the 12in version of this the other day. Can't wait till it's delivered! I already have a spot for it and plenty of work!

[@roundtablewoodcrafts]

I have created a cart for mine and that has made it much easier to use in my small shop.

[@Wyman642]

I have this one and love it. Has similar footprint to 8-inch and works well in small show.

[@Sunshinecoastphotography]

Holy crap! There’s another guy just like me out there! Thanks for this video!

[@Halenstimbertime]

Very Nice job! I appreciate Your coverage of this unit I’m getting the 12” model and now I’m excited because as You describe this will save So much Time Thanks !

[@roundtablewoodcrafts]

Glad I could help. I've used the jointer several times since I made the video and it has continued to perform better than I had hoped. It has brought my woodworking to a new level.

[@ligngood3787]

How do you like the 12" model? Do you find the tables too short? I have a very large 8" jointer and it is great but I often work with wide slabs and need something wider. I am thinking of keeping my 8" and adding this 12" to my shop for those wide boards...

[@ehRalph]

For a couple years, I’ve been considering updating the head on my 1980’s Inca 10” straight knife jointer. Due to variations in that old model design, there were 3 slightly different cutter heads to choose between and hopefully order correctly. It was a custom order deal that could waste lots of time and money if I didn’t get it right. So, I took my jointer apart and measured things from pulleys and bearings to throat and couldn’t match anything 100% to the pages of PDFs they sent. So rather than take a chance and make a costly mistake, I finally bought a new 8” helical head jointer because sharpening and setting knives is the worst job out there. Anyway, I think you have a segmented cutter head. Best of my knowledge there are 3 styles: segmented (like yours), spiral (where knives follow a spiral path and cut parallel to the table), and helical (where knives are arranged in a spiral and cut on a 3°~5° skew to the table. Carbide inserts - the way to go. Btw, good video but the background music -might consider dropping it of lowering its volume

[@roundtablewoodcrafts]

Thanks for the tip. Its my first time doing this.

[@livinaftermidnight9651]

Not absolutely sure but if you want 4 sided cutters you could maybe use the Wahuda blades. I think these are twin machines. Just checked the Wahuda website, their knives will NOT work with these machines apparently.

[@michaelshelnutt3534]

Question- with a big jointer like this, do you need a planer?

[@scubaguy5455]

In my experience, yes! A jointer flattens one face and side, and a planer cuts to thickness using the flattened side as a reference.

[@jbarker2160]

It's the same argument as a table saw. A track saw or circular saw can do what a table saw can do, but you'll spend a whole lot more time making it work and a whole lot more times getting it wrong.

[@roundtablewoodcrafts]

Yes, you would need a planer. The jointer can only flatten one side, but it cannot make the sides parallel. The planer makes the two sides parallel. I used a planer for a long time without a jointer because I could use a table saw jig and a planer jig to do the same work as a jointer. It took far more time and was often difficult. A jointer without a planer would leave you without the option to create parallel sides on your boards.

[@jjoohhhnn]

Technically you could, but for jointing a table top, when you need two boards to be the exact same thickness, it's faster to do it with a planer, so much faster and more accurate it's worth getting a new machine for the other 20% of capabilities you're looking for. Same deal with a table saw vs track saw, it's faster, safer and easier to cut plywood and slabs with a good track saw, but for pieces you can't fit a track on you need a table saw. It's easier to compensate with a table saw than a track saw, but it still soaks up time trying to cut larger pieces with a table saw, especially without a sliding crosscutting sled. Miter saws, table saws and track saws are all spinning blades roughly the same size, but they each have unique functions that make them necessary for most carpenters and woodworkers.