Cutting Open My Burn Chamber - Diesel Heater. PT-13

[@gerryhan8818]

I cut 2 burners with angle grinder, same position like in the video, and result isn't good at all. Both burners have leak diesel to exhaust and emit a lot smoke. I believe the diesel leak from the gap. Since I can't find any sealant can bear 500 deg C, I welded it back. Since I remove the donuts shape plate, I use a piece of sheet metal (duct) and hold it with nails. Thus it became removable.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah. I cut mine open with a lathe and I have a stainless ring around it that somewhat seals it up... however, it is not a perfect seal.

[@garybeasley538]

I have filtered waste oil to 10 microns and blended down to 75% diesel and my burner still stops up. I think it is the additive package that is in the oil. I hope you find a solution so we can use our own waste oil instead of giving it away. I do enjoy your channel.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Yep it's the metal based grease additives getting oxidised at high temperature and forming refactory ceramic deposits

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks... I appreciate your comment. While I believe additives and contaminants are part of the issue, I think they are a secondary issues... #1 being the temperature required to burn oil vs diesel (and lighter fuels).

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That's probably some of what was happening in the main burn area ... it was like concrete.

[@GrantCarterBrown]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Correct. The white concrete stuff are metallic oxides left over from burning the anti-wear additive package... Mostly Zinc oxide and Molybdenum oxides. I've just got a burn chamber I intend to play with back from the powdercoaters today. They've coated it with a 1200degree C heat resistant coating... I'm keen to see how well that will stop crap sticking to it.... But no way I'm trying it today. its 32degrees C today and I'm toasting.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@GrantCarterBrown Haha... it was a pretty nice 0C here today. That must be ceramic coating ... cerakote or something like that. That's an interesting idea. For me, the oxides seem to start at the exit of the reduction rin and cling on to the edge, originating from in the main burn area. I'm interested to know how it works out for you.

[@jimjohnson6615]

i worked in a foundry and some of our machines had small burners on a rail that would blow our during the heating process. our remedy to that was to put a loosley rolled wad of steel wool in front of the flame. this glowing wad would relight the burner if it wanted to go out. i wonder if that could help you with it staying lit and helping with catching the crud and burning it up. great channel. love the experimenting

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Great thinking ! I sort of tried something like that (video not yet released).

[@clovenbeast5183]

I remember welding school and learning to TIG weld. I like how sometimes you can feel the current flowing through you lol

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah... I like all different sorts of welding, but tig and stick are the most satisfying. Mig is nice and fast.

[@fmemories]

Dude I am close. I ran about 4 hours with "black diesel" and had almost no buildup! I had a new burn chamber, heated up on diesel, preheated the waste oil by running about 8" in the air outlet using copper tubing. Ran into pump then heater. This flows better. I also cut open 1/4 rubber tubing and insulated the 3" steal fuel line in the airstream before the burn chamber so it kept heat in the oil going in. More buildup was in the bottom of the burn chamber then in the burn area! I want to try adding 3/16 copper line AFTER the pump to keep it really hot going in....goal is about 160F going in. Sorry all US measurements :) So new burner. 20% gas 80% waste filtered to 5 micron mixed really well. Preheat diesel. Heat oil to about 130 before pump. Insulate line into burner. Next for me is heat after pump to get to like 160 right before going into burner. Good luck!!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That's great news... I hope it keeps working for you. I have put a thermocouple on my fuel line and outside of the chamber to keep track of these temperatures. I did a test with insulating the fuel line and it made about a 10ºC difference at the most, but still worth doing. I don't think preheating before the pump matters unless your oil is really thick. These dosing pumps have a fixed displacement and will pump the same amount if they are able to complete their stroke. I keep my tank beside the heater and it gets to about 25C Copper will radiate heat very quickly, so unless you plan to reheat the 3/16 copper line, you are better off with insulated steel. I have measured my fuel going in to be between 80 - 104C (176F to 219F) with the set up that I am using. I think one of the things that is holding me back at this point is not having a new burner. Keep it up and let me know if it keeps working for you. I would be interested to know what the temp is on the outside of your chamber is where the fuel goes in... I have found that below 230C (450F) in this area will cause it to burn dirty... tho it may appear to be working well, it will eventually plug up. It may be that my chamber has too many mods to work properly, haha.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Thanks for another great vid! You sir have the soul of a golden retriever...INCREDIBLY patient,excitable and you give off good vibes.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Some would say I'm almost as smart as one too ... thanks for the kind comment, good sir !

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@@loweredexpectations4927 "golden retriever" is the highest honor I bestow on anyone

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Mwwwwwwwwe Haha... agreed.

[@BuckenStanleyRay]

It's just incomplete combustion of the oil. I'm trying centrifuged oil filtered at 2 microns still builds up. These units are way over fired on oil. I work on Burners and boilers for a living and all combustion should occur before it touches the aluminum beyond the burn tube, I tapped a 1/16 npt plug in the back of the aluminum chamber and flames shot inches beyond the hole. I lessened fuel Input until it didn't shoot out of the tapped hole. It now runs 10%ish O2 and 400-500 CO. CO is incomplete combustion and/or flame impingement. I have made multiple mods on mine and am continuing testing. This latest try its almost burned 5 gallons so far.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment / for sharing your experience. I have found much the same in my testing. I ended up putting a thermocouple on the outside of my burn chamber, where the fuel goes in... If I can keep the temp above 230C, the heater works really well... My experiments have now become focused on how to keep heat in that area of the burn chamber. I may need to start over from scratch with an unmodified chamber as mine has a lot of mods that may be working against me. I have also noticed that they make a style / type of chamber that has a pocket / recess around the inlet of the chamber. It appears as tho this was designed so that the hot gasses would warm that area before exiting the exhaust port. I have also had small gains by insulating the burn chamber from the exchanger, so that it retains more heat, but the cooling effect of the inlet air is the biggest issue. I have played with the idea (in my head) of running a second reduction ring after the original one and having a second pump for waste oil that delivers oil into that area. Instead of mixing the oil in a mix, run the diesel pump at 10% of the oil pump, and inject it into the original burn area just to get the oil hot.

[@BuckenStanleyRay]

Soot reduces heat transfer significantly. As I have reduced fuel input the exhaust temp has dropped significantly. The main issue I had after lowering fuel input was making running temp in time to avoid shutdown. I have come up with an easy inexpensive way to remedy this issue as well. Any time you have to much fuel vs air you will also deposit significantly more buildup. Another thing most people overlook is moisture content in oil. I do some work at an oil recycling company and I asked if they new the typical moisture content in oil. Apparently this is something they measure and said that typically 9-20% is water! Oil has additives to hold moisture aka water in suspension. I heat my oil above 212 degrees before centrifuging to drive out the water and thin the oil for better centrifuge results. I can attest to lots of moisture in some batches of oil. So when this 9-20% moisture content is heated it essentially becomes steam which is not air so therefore further reduces the oxygen for combustion.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@BuckenStanleyRay Yes, the soot in the heat exchanger makes it much less efficient. Much more heat will just pass out the exhaust. If you have excessive fuel, or fuel that is burning poorly, it will cause the exhaust to run hot as the burn will happen closer to the exhaust, or in the exhaust. Reducing fuel input will reduce the temperature of the exhaust, but I have found that this also reduces the temperature of the burn chamber. Running rich produces more soot as it is an incomplete burn, but I have found (in some testing) that running lean does not produce enough heat. This lack of heat does not flash off the oil and a lot of crud builds up as a result, and the burn happens outside of the main burn area. Yes... My waste oil has moisture and gasoline in it. I preheat my oil after the pump, and it boils aggressively. I suspect that most of this is due to water in the oil. I can see how this is an issue for both fuel air ratio, but I'm not ready to run my oil through a centrifuge yet... Maybe in the future when / if all other options are exhausted, haha. As I believe I said earlier. I have found that the main issue is keeping the area where the oil comes in, hot. If it is hot. the heater works well and only produces yellowish white ash with no carbon issues at all. If I don't keep this area hot, I get a lot of carbon and often, unburnt oil running out of the burn area into the burn tube.

[@crow3003]

I'm super exited about your progress, cutting open the burnchamber I think is a major key to keep it clean and consitent. I hope clean oil wil work reasonably and burn ok enough mixed with diesel (aka filters will fix the mess), but I expect that even if clean oil will gunk up less it will stil be a pain to use. New burnchambers, glowplugs and fan assemblies should be on your shelf, because I don't want interuption to this great entertainment Joel. 👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! Yes, this was a big step... I had considered it for a long time, but don't have the funds to get another one, so I waited (too long). It is very easy to clean out now. I won't spoil it for you, but yes... if this works, it means that I need to filter my oil better and then I will have decent fuel... instead of waste. Haha... Yes... I SHOULD have lots of spare parts. I had to sell my snowboard last week to pay my phone bill, and was able to buy two loves of bread and 4 frozen pizzas with the leftover cash. Betting on KZbin to supplement your seasonal income is NOT a good financial decision.😬

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@@loweredexpectations4927 bro start a patrion/similar crowd funding. I'm sure atleast 15% your viewers would chip in with 5 bucks per person- I would!

[@MrSlugbait]

@@loweredexpectations4927 A homemade centrifuge works well if the oil is warmed...

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@MrSlugbait Thanks for the comment. I may build one at some point.

[@PainterD54]

If the burn chamber/heat exchanger was made of steel or stainless steel, and the pump would pump more fuel, a larger fan (more cfm) it would make a much better heater. The aluminum will only take so much heat and will melt if run hotter. Stainless is the answer as far as I can see. Of course the price will be more but you get what you pay for.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

This is true, but there are a lot more reasons to use aluminum other than it being cheap. The aluminum is much better at transferring heat so that it doesn't just go out the exhaust. If you made the exchanger out of stainless, it would have to be several times as large, to get the same heat transfer. If you then made it hotter, you would have to have a steel or aluminum insulated case and also have a very clever way to mount it or you would burn whatever it was mounted to. These are designed primarily for vehicles and RVs, and people generally use them in small spaces, so having something that can use a plastic case is pretty important. By limiting the exchanger to no more than 250C , the heater becomes way more practical for more situations. A stainless steel, large version of these heaters would be great for a workshop or something like that👍

[@TheBry_Guy]

love the content. keep going! I have my new one running but I have to admit it was just a curiosity as I really have no shop to heat with it. I have to say the exhaust restrictions people talk about may not be a thing as I have a 5 foot exhaust on mine with literal 180 degree bends. The pipe I bought comes folded back and forth and I left it that way. I wanted to steal as much heat from the exhaust as possible. mine runs like a champ, doesn't condense in the tube and has no issues. I ran the exhaust through my garage door and have no soot or black drippings down my door. But I am burning nothing but pure diesel. We had a -30C -22F cold snap the last day or two and it heated my 2 car garage from 5C to 20C in about 2 hours and then slowly ramped itself down to about half power in thermostat mode. my garage is fairly well insulated as it is surrounded by my house on 2 walls and the cieling.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! Yes... I have suspected that the exhaust restrictions are nonsense for this reason. Obviously, a real restriction is not good... but what does it take to cause a real restriction, that is the question. Condensation will happen as the exhaust cools, but if it happens over the length of a 5' pipe, it will be very little in each area ... unless you have it all running down to one spot, it won't be an issue. Of course, this also depends on the relative humidity where you are operating it. Right on ! I'm glad that it's working for you ! If you're looking for something more compact than a long hose, a truck radiator from a scrap yard would likely do the trick and not take up much space... but I suppose 5' of hose / pipe isn't too bad anyway.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

Just thinking if instead of the mesh you had some stainless nails poking through the burn chamber they would get red hot and act as a 'glow plug'- without blocking up- hopefully the Ash wouldn't have much surface to cling to so it would be blown out the exhaust... also if the Ash is a metal oxide you could probably clean/disolve it with hydrocloric(pool acid)

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Oh man !!! ... Based on this comment, you are really going to like some of my upcoming videos ... Wait till you see what I jam into that chamber trying to retain heat !! 🤣 I love me some muriatic acid ! (pool PH) ... I used it as a technician to remove aluminum from cylinder walls on engines that scuffed / galled. It's pretty intense stuff. It probably wouldn't be too kind to the burn chamber itself...

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@@loweredexpectations4927 😃😃😃 I love a bit of mad science- can't wait for the next installment!!!! Hydrochloric acid shouldn't destroy the stainless(?) Burn chamber. HCl takes me back...I was a dangerous pyro nerd in high-school made a few not so legal high energy compounds using HCl...I just remember my school trousers ALWAYS had holes/ discolored sploches on them from working with HCL🤣🤣

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Mwwwwwwwwe Yeah... I went through a similar period... HCL in a pop bottle with aluminum foil... dangerous in so many way. Probably one of the most intense "smells" ever... I say "smell" because it is likely partly smell and partly the acid vapours burning the inside of your nose...

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Mwwwwwwwwe I don't think these chambers are made of stainless.... they rust ? SO... maybe some sort of stainless that resists oxidizing in a high heat environment... It hold up pretty well compared to other things I've put in there.

[@Mwwwwwwwwe]

@@loweredexpectations4927 YEP YEP!if we grew up in the same continent/neibourhood it would likely cease to exist😅🤣

[@roastntoast7550]

Great episode, I can't wait for next Episode! 👍 Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing bud.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! Much appreciated !

[@wallacefrey6247]

Come on VEVOR...... Send this guy a couple extra heaters to play with and get some cheap advertisement.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Right ! Get on it already 🤣 SO.... what kinda happened with VEVOR (and I'm speculating) .... I didn't' know there were different links for different countries. I only posted the link for Canada, and so most of my audience who bought heaters were just redirected to their country and I didn't get credit for any of those sales. They are a business, and the reason they asked to work with me is because they assumed I could sell some heaters, but without proof of that, they aren't so willing to send me anything.... Basically, I fucked up.

[@jorgruthschilling]

@@loweredexpectations4927 You need a geo-ip based affiliate link redirector. 😉

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@jorgruthschilling I have no idea what that is, haha. I assume a site or app used to redirect people from a certain area to a specific link. You would think that a company like VEVOR would just have this built into their links.... That's what I had assumed from the beginning. I mean... I didn't think about it in depth, but I assumed that I wouldn't need to post 50 different links to the same product.

[@jorgruthschilling]

@@loweredexpectations4927 A lot of travel and photography vloggers are using e.g. "genius link" to improve their affiliate marketing revenues.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@jorgruthschilling Thanks. Maybe I'll look into that when I have time.

[@Jokker868]

Good video can't wait to see how long it works.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

You and me both! I actually forget the results of this test and won't remember until I do the editing on the video🤣

[@darrylbrown1319]

Love the tenacity and innovative problem solving! Since you asked, I suspect that trying to burn clean motor oil will act differently but will not be successful as what you might avoid in extra contaminants you will fight with higher flash point and unburnt fuel.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I always have to have some project that I'm working on // struggling with... Currently, this is my thing... Spoiler alert ... ding ding ding.... We have a winner. New motor oil has a higher flash point and doesn't like to burn, haha.

[@mightyfinejonboy]

cannot believe how tough your heater is, my new one lasted a 3rd of a tank of diesel and died, the fan keeps hunting and slowing down to a standstill. ordered a new ECU for a try. keep up the fantastic work 🙂

[@Dirt-Diggler]

Take the motor out and test it on the bench, it could be dirty computator or brushes or seized bearings so a bench test will show that, if all is ok on the bench test make sure the inner fan hasn't moved on the shaft or the magnetic pickups wont be sensed by the ECU and that can cause hunting, TBH the ECU us usually the last item to go BUT obv now I've said that sods law dictates it'll be the ECU 🤣

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Shitty ! ... I had my ecu die on me... Spoiler alert, haha... When your motor dies from overheating, and you patch it back together and keep running it... Turns out that isn't good for the ecu. On mine, the mosfet burnt out and it would speed up way too fast at start up, then act really strange. Took less than 24 h to get a new one from Amazon $24.

[@donnied6759]

@Lowered Expectations How much would it cost you to buy that 50 cent mosfet and Replace it 🤔

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@donnied6759 IF I were 100% sure that's what it was, and I could find another one... I'm sure a few dollars. The way it was acting, it could have very well have been the microchip.... or the chip and mosfet... I suspect the mosfet because of the smell, I think I saw some discoloration and it would handle the load of the motor...

[@donnied6759]

Seems like you're on the way to producing some heat

[@loweredexpectations4927]

It's a constant roller coaster of "wow, it's working great!" .... "oh no, it shut off" haha.

[@easymac79]

7:25 Clean vs. used. Intrigued. I have some not-new-diesel/ATF mix. I plan to use this next if I don't obtain some fresh diesel first. I'm concerned water contamination seized my pump and thinking the ATF will help lubricate. I reckon the results of a lighter motor oil would mimic a heavier oil (ATF) cut with not fresh diesel. 7:52 Don't clean the love marks! That's how you know a machine is well used.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

HAHA... "don't clean the love marks" ... It doesn't get much love in the way of cleaning.... but it does get a lot of attention. I'm interesting to know what ATF does. I have seen a few videos of people saying it doesn't work well. I think I would cut it with 5-10% gasoline as well if I were trying it... but we all know how my testing has gone so far🤣

[@lanceulbrich6249]

New motor oil has a much higher flash point then used around 3-400f for new only around 160f for used getting the molecules exposed to air is crucial for the formation of carbon oxides instead of carbon.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

This is what I had suspected (not in as much detail) that used oil would have a lower flash point.

[@crow3003]

I think HobbyChanel got it right with having the burn chamber come apart in front of the mounting plate. That is something to see if could be bettered. I already got a Vevor heater, contemplating on getting another to play with if you get some progress of burning waste oil.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I think the way he did it is okay for cleaning, but you always need to remove the chamber to clean in the tube part as well, so splitting it the way I did made sense to me. You will also see in some upcoming videos why I chose to do it the way I did... If you look at the video 19:42 you will see a future modification that was made easier because of how I did it. I haven't figured it out 100%, but a big part of the puzzle was upgrading the ecu and controller ... Video on that won't be for a while probably.

[@darrylbrown1319]

@Lowered Expectations Can you let us know what controller you picked up and where to order it from (and maybe get a kickback from it!) as I think a lot of us have the same unit.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@darrylbrown1319 I will try to share the link with you in this reply... If it doesn't show up, check the description of the video. I'll post it there for you as well. www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004560948748.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.2.2647f19cYuJolG

[@bluethunderbug]

I love the anti-lag system to help clean out the gunk 🤣🤣🤣 Very interested in the results.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

😂 ... that's great ! I didn't even know that was a thing on diesels... but apparently it is.

[@lukasznowak8873]

just done 22 hours run without mesh inside, with original glow plug atomiser and all i can say is smokeless burning, 1 minute start up every time, i had to chisel the mesh out it was really bad also combustion chamber without it seems to be a lot bigger so hopefully wont clog up as quick...got it up and running again will do another 24 hours ...running same mixture i ran before already on around 25 hours and previously it only lasted 6 hours constant and never fired up again no matter what...also my air intake catch can is not needed anymore although keeping it as it reduced noise from intake made it silent: ) bought some mesh to replace old one but i will not be doing it for sure haha

[@loweredexpectations4927]

That's awesome ! Good to hear. Did you cut your chamber open to get the mesh out, or is it a removable one ? I think I'm struggling with mine now due to some of the mods that I have done to the chamber. I'll have to get a new one at some point.

[@herdbrian6662]

You’ve surmised this several times and I suspect while challenging it would be an interesting exp. But what about doubling the chamber size? You’d need a second preferably dead donor chamber to tig together and make a mating surface to connect the two heat exchangers together.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for your comment ! I have had this thought many times... Generally, what I consider is two separate but inline chambers. In the first chamber, I would inject pure clean diesel at a fairly low rate, so that it was equal to 10-20% of the total fuel being consumed. The second chamber would have waste oil pumped in. The purpose of the primary chamber would be to simply keep the oil chamber really hot so that the oil ignites immediately, and burns more completely. I have a few tests and experiments that I want to do before this, but I am definitely considering this.

[@herdbrian6662]

Interesting thought. I was thinking a longer chamber would prevent so much blow by the end of the chamber and into the heat exchanger. Your way might be better. I’m fascinated to see you try. I’ve got one that runs 4-5 days on a 5 gal can on clean diesel but I dispose of 14l of oil at least quarterly. I’d love to burn some of that instead of paying to have someone else burn it.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@herdbrian6662 🤟 Not everyone is willing to turn their heater into an experiment, haha, and I don't' blame them, but with that much oil, you could likely mix it in at 5% to every second tank, or something like that, and not have issues.... but you don't know till you try..... soooooo, yeah.

[@herdbrian6662]

My neighbor is a heavy diesel mechanic and always has a waste oil tank he needs to off load if I found a formula that worked I’d likely have the ability to heat solely with that formula. But like you said I don’t want to experiment too much. My shop is 300 sq f and I heat it with a 240v construction heater on a mount. But keep it at 10deg until I’m out working there when I crank up the diesel heater for a few days. But if I had a source for cheap fuel I’d leverage that and cut my electric bill at nearly $2 a liter and 2-5l a day vs .19/kw it’s an interesting idea as to where the cross over is.

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Motor oil contains many PPM of additive compounds, many of which are metallic elements. Phosphorus, Zinc, Calcium, Boron, and others. None of these are present in diesel fuel.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment. Yes, this is true, but this is not the main issue with oil, when compared to diesel. As you say, many PPM. Percentage wise these additives are very small. The main issue with burning oil, compared to diesel, is the flash point. I've been doing a lot more experimenting, and the contamination and additives are a secondary concern that would come into play if / when you burn all of the oil. Without the high temp, you don't' burn the oil and that is a much bigger issue.

[@jankrijnen7374]

Why not make a sleeve to fit both sides together or make threads on them? You have a laith😊so after putting it together you can always take it apart and/ or adjust things. Even put in another mesh witch can be squeezed in between.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I have thought about threading them... In one of the next videos, I believe, I talk about making a sleeve type thing to hold the burn tube on.

[@Dirt-Diggler]

I know you already know/get it but to try and use an analogy that non mechanics may understand,, that inner screen is the equivalent of a spark plug in a petrol engine, now imagine your plugs are fowled (sooted up) they only ever get worse, a fowled plug wont ignite the fuel air mix completely causing more soot causing less compleat burn causing more soot, ect ect until engine no run no more. Plugs rarely if ever clean themselves, you put a new set in 😏 As allways chap i really enjoyed that vid 👍😎👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment ! Yeah... if you have clapped out plugs, you can't depend on them. It' not hard to understand why it wasn't working well / at all after seeing all of the build up.

[@Dirt-Diggler]

@@loweredexpectations4927 your doing a frikken fantastic job chap 👍 😎👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@Dirt-Diggler Why thank you, kind sir.

[@easymac79]

17:21 If you weren't expending gas, i'd say it is worth it for the experience. I don't yet have an Argon cylinder, but my plasma cutter is a multi-unit with TIG and I cannot wait for the opportunity to practice.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah... my tank is almost empty... $90 to refill and every time I use it I'm surprised that it actually worked... Welding can be very therapeutic, when it's going well. When you're just trying to get something done and it won't work.... Not so therapeutic... I hope you enjoy it !

[@NY411Info]

Lol, the people that said the pressure will change with the fuel line type, obviously has never had one of these apart. There are no jets/orifice in the end of the injection tube.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah.... it's impossible. I'm going to do a video where I test the possible fuel pressure that the pump can deliver and some other tests to show that they do not need or use pressure. Just enough to get fuel from the tank to the chamber.

[@SwedenLover090]

What a cliffhanger.... Tell us now! 😊 If i can read faces, you looked glad, so it worked ? Well, i am so curious... i want next video to come out now.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... I'm not going to tell you, but I do plan on releasing a video later today / this evening. I'm a little behind schedule.

[@Joe-hj6pg]

Love the video , Keep up the good work .

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks Joe !

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Wait ... Are you Joel in North Carolina ?

[@c2hh571]

Try to get a promo code for a 8kw heater(I thought you said yours was 5kw) . See if they would give a promo code for two or more heaters. I think you should get another heater and only use it on diesel,you looked cold in this video. I need two 8kw heaters for my greenhouse some discount would be nice ,not really necessary but nice. Good job so far.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Hey... If you want a specific one, you can send me a link, and I'll see what I can do about getting you a link... That being said. The 5 kw and 8 kw units are the same... Every company labels them as 5 and 8 kw, but there are really only 3 and 5... I have talked to VEVOR and they say that as of now, the codes I have are the biggest discounts they can give me. If you are purchasing two, the 5% discount may be better than the $10 discount ? If you have questions, let me know and I will help if I can.

[@c2hh571]

@@loweredexpectations4927 thank you for the info. I was wondering why they wold go into production for only 3more kw. I will look them over again and decided . 5 on two just might be better after all

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@c2hh571 Yes, it's not a very honest practice and quite annoying. I actually didn't know this when I bought mine, and bought a "8kw" version. I'm happy with my purchase, and I would do it again, but it's just not right.

[@c2hh571]

I will have to order them one at a time to maximize the vvs10 promo code. Now I need 3 (my brother). Would be nice to get them at the same time.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@c2hh571 Oh, yes... That does make more sense, doesn't it ! Haha...

[@cowboy6591]

If The new motor oil contaminates show up, probably the detergent and sulfurs.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yeah, oil, even diesel, has sulphur. Really high quality oil will have a low ash content, but all oil will produce ash when burnt. At lower temperatures, an incomplete burn will produce more soot and CO, and this could actually work in your favor, as a lot of this can be carried out the exhaust. Higher temperatures produce deposits of sulphur, calcium and phosphorus. Some additives would burn / become oxides when burn. Zinc, is a common additive, and it oxidizes at 900C while the burn area is over 1000C. I'm sure that there are some additives that would also contribute to ash.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

YOu`ll have to swap to a different tunable controller. I initially got the same one you have and then got tunable ones

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Tunable controller on the way... videos to come.

[@jorgruthschilling]

The burner pipe can be divided into a vaporizer and a flame section. The vaporizer part has a stainless steel mesh surface, which is vulnerable to soot if you are running a too fat air/fuel mixture. If you want to burn waste oil, I think, you have to improve the design if the vaporizer part.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I think you are very much correct about this. I have installed a temperature probe, and the oil does not get hot enough to vaporize in that area. I have been experimenting with all sorts of different ideas since this video footage was taken. It is VERY difficult to do, but when I can keep the temperature up, it burns really clean and efficient. I have some more radical ideas, but I am currently try to do things that are more practical for the average person. One of my ideas is to run two pumps. One for diesel in the normal vaporizing area. Then have a second vaporizing area where oil gets injected so that the diesel flame is vaporizing the diesel. You would only run the diesel pump for start up and for heating the oil chamber.

[@plainandsimple1]

@@loweredexpectations4927 this would make sense, i've seen people do things like this for wood stoves, and once they heat it up with diesel it runs perfect off wmo.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@plainandsimple1 Yes, this is true. The advantage a wood stove, or any larger burner has is the extra internal volume. These diesel heater burn chambers are very small and sensitive to any changes in geometry that cause restrictions or changes in flow. A wood stove will continue to burn well until it is full of ash, but these little heaters start working poorly even after a small amount. Regardless of how well the oil burns, there will always be ash left over.

[@chuckb.3324]

Great work on your flash hole or is it flashed hole???? Hot rodding it with the free flow burn chamber. I like it. Thought it was headed to the dead. Awesome. I see a bright glowing future for the heater that could. You might have to break out some of that NASA insulation.......

[@loweredexpectations4927]

HAHA... Good stuff. Innovation at the highest level on this channel !

[@Yankeeprepperasshat]

If you drop that assembly in acetone for a half hour, the crusties will get soft and fall off like burnt toast getting wet

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Good thinking... I actually have acetone for fibreglass and carbon fibre work... but I'm WAY too cheap to use it for this purpose 🤣 ... I mean "frugal"

[@easymac79]

11:52 From my perspective, the rubber flange would melt before the wood. It has enough airflow and contact with the aluminum casing that it doesn't overheat. That's the weak link, but also, eh.. (I'm thinking as I type) trapping the rubber between the housing and shelf may promote heat transfer. The aluminum(aluminium and those from Canadia might say :P) tape should reflect the infrared and protect the wood, but it's not going to help thermals. Perhaps some washers or some other spacer, I'd use rockwool insulation, would give a better separation. I'm just not confident in the contact patch.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

It's aluminum.... not aluminum ..., haha. Yeah... what I ended up doing was removing the rubber gasket... this allows some air from the fan to come out of the case and cool the exhaust, shelf etc. Seems to be working well so far and hasn't charred anything.

[@easymac79]

@@loweredexpectations4927 > It's aluminum.... not aluminum ... [there is a hidden 'i'] alu-min-ium hence can-ad-ia. It's a stupid joke I've used for so long i hardly can spell Canadia - yeah, see, it just doesn't work without the extra i. [just a dumb american thing] Neat, sounds like that extra space and cooling will work. Solid wood isn't going to burst into flames and no charring sounds like it's long-term safe.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@easymac79 Haha... I didn't even notice that hidden "i" till you pointed it out. Apple is probably going to sue as I think they own the rights to the lowercase "i" "safe" is not the word that I would use to describe it... unless the word "reasonably" came before it... haha.

[@leiferickson713]

That exhaust has got Perroni‘s disease.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

🤣 Isn't that a medical condition ?

[@talusranch990]

He got it ouwt

[@loweredexpectations4927]

He got it out ? .... Who is "he" and what did he get out ? The baffle ? I'm not sure what this is in reference to. I guess you just watched it... but for me this was a year ago, haha.

[@talusranch990]

@@loweredexpectations4927 I continue to watch your videos ay

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@talusranch990 Thank you.

[@danniedordrecht2668]

Hi, great video. I like rhat stuff of trying out. Maybe you can help me out. I have a bew (china) diesel heater, burns great for about 4 weeks and then srartup problems occured. A lot of white snoke, temp goes up a few degrees and then it quits. I have replaced the glow plug, the mesh around it and declogged the burn chamber and so on... Still the same results.. any suggestions where to look for? It runs on purw diesel.. Thx

[@loweredexpectations4927]

You probably have a build up of carbon in behind the baffle in the chamber. This is really hard to clean out, and it can get really hard and feel like metal in there. You may need to get a new chamber. My latest video shows details of the inside of your chamber. If you can get something with a 90º angle on it and scrape out behind the baffle, this might work. The fact that it had carbon in there after 4 weels indicates that it is running rich. You may have an air or exhaust restriction or if you are at high elevation, the fuel rate may be too high.

[@danniedordrecht2668]

@@loweredexpectations4927 thx for the reply. I will have a look .. unfortunately i can not change the fuel rate with my controler. I must say that i was only using the heater on the lowest setting, can that also cause this clogging?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@danniedordrecht2668 Do you know what your elevation is ? Are you close to seal level, or up higher ? Many controllers that don't have fuel rate control, will have "alpine" or "plateau" mode. This lowers the fuel rate for higher elevation. If your inlet is too long, too small or restricted in any way, this can have the same effect. The exact same thing for your exhaust. Also, if you have the heater installed in a confined / small space, you need to make sure air can get in to the combustion air inlet. (the small inlet) A lot of people claim that running on low will cause soot. From my testing, I do not believe this to be the case. The chamber where the fuel burns, does not increase much. It is actually hotter at half heat setting, than it is at full. It wouldn't hurt to run the heater at half heat for a few minutes before shut down or for half an hour every few days.

[@Shawnee845]

I was just wondering will Def fuel clean the heater.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I don't think so... I have done some research, and based on how DEF works, and based on that, I don't think it can work in these heaters. There is a guy named Gary who makes videos and he is injecting DEF... I haven't had time to watch the videos in detail though... His name on YT is Gary Sleeman.

[@sanduafaceri2792]

Widening the air hole of the combustion chamber heater. IT is posibil or it is indicat?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

The material is very thin, only about 2mm. You can only widen it 2mm before the centre part falls off and the design is drastically altered. Additionally, I do not think that this is the limiting factor. The slots in that area are likely the limiting factor, and are there to control the flow of air - Causing the air to move outward towards the chamber walls, instead of flowing directly out the end of the chamber.

[@shanehogarth6373]

Great video Joel, as usual. I am sure much of the debris is a result from burning the crap in waste oil. Actually, my wife said something the other day that reinforced this..last spring I gave the old wooden, dried out gates on my drive a lovely helping of used motor oil, who needs preservative when you have a load of old oil? Anyhow, she was moaning that nearly a year later her hands were always getting covered in "sooty" stuff when she had to open the gates. Sure enough, the gates are as dry as a bone but have a serious layer of what seems like carbon dust on them, despite the wet weather we have here in the UK. It has to be that that causes the bulk of the build up I reckon.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks Shane. Used oil is nasty stuff, that's for sure. Lots of extra carbon and other crap from the combustion process. It would be nice if the solution to my problems was really good filtration.... We shall see.

[@shanehogarth6373]

@@loweredexpectations4927 It is, the stuff I have is from dirty diesels too. Bear in mind that most diesels are big on EGR too so the oil is full of crap from having the exhaust gases fed back into the intake periodically. A quick look into the intake manifold of any modern diesel engine demonstrates this. Looking forward to the next installment,👍

[@nexpro6985]

New burn chamber is $15.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

At the time I made this video, I was selling my belongings so that I could buy frozen pizzas. $15 is like two pizzas 🤣 ... also, I'm Canadian, so it's really about $40 by the time I get one shipped from aliexpress.

[@johnwyman6126]

Why aren't you changing the air-fuel ratio? You know you have to do it to keep it from carboning up, just like in a gasoline engine.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

A few reasons, but I sort of am. 1. I don't have a controller that offers the ability to change AFR. It is preset from the factory. 2. While gasoline requires a very narrow AFR to be correct, diesel and many oils are not nearly as fussy. The stoichiometric ratio for diesel is around 14.5:1, but it will run fine all the way up to 75:1 and just make less heat / energy. 3. I have changed the AFR by mixing fuels. Different fuels require more or less oxygen so by changing the fuel, in a round about way, you are changing the ratio. Alcohol is a good example of this. 10% alcohol is worth one jet size in a carburetor. I have also run the heater without a filter allowing it to get more air, ported / smoothened out the inlet and exhaust allowing it to flow better and also injected air into the combustion chamber. But the short answer is "because I don't have a controller that does that"🤣

[@easymac79]

18:58 "I fully expect this not to work" I am TOTALLY down for testing modifications. Slightly sarcastic, umm, What if you 'dimpled' the burn chamber? To increase turbulence/ air mixing? LOL. I do reckon, after learning much, the final conclusion is that the original engineer either got it most efficient, or most cost effective. The gains will come at a cost - but, especially if this allows waste oil burning reliable, cost would be tiny compared to a nearly infinite, almost free source of fuel. This should be interesting..

[@loweredexpectations4927]

While the engineers have done a great job, if you look at some of the other (original) designs, They have a two piece, much more intricate burn chamber that does indeed to a lot of air mixing. They have the burn chamber that looks like mine, but that fits inside another steel tube creating a passage outside of the chamber. This passage gets fed air from the fan and is introduced to the already burning / burnt fuel (doing some speculation based on photos) I have also seen another chamber that looks like it would bolt right onto mine, that I would love to try. It has a recess around the flange / glow plug area and appears that it was designed to put heat from the exhaust gasses back into the burn chamber around the area where the fuel comes in. I will post a link... it may or may not show up. I'm not sure how well it will come through in my next videos... but this is where some goofy experimentation begins... with this mod I got a lot more ideas. campaign.aliexpress.com/wow/gcp/tesla-pc-new/index?UTABTest=aliabtest344316_486351&_randl_currency=CAD&_randl_shipto=CA&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=631-313-3945&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbActive=false&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=19374049354&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005004621566687&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en1005004621566687&gclid=CjwKCAiAxP2eBhBiEiwA5puhNYFTnJHXBm6JZyG5P5IYc0FNBr2OYvu7SSSVVeYGFD1STbq__L4vZxoCK2AQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=198163c6ca244c97a04fd53b19cd1ce0-1675665239458-00332-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=198163c6ca244c97a04fd53b19cd1ce0-1675665239458-00332-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=f5dd2ea7d089435098e4a1361af56dac&wh_weex=true&wx_navbar_hidden=true&wx_navbar_transparent=true&ignoreNavigationBar=true&wx_statusbar_hidden=true&bt_src=ppc_direct_lp&scenario=pcBridgePPC&productId=1005004621566687&OLP=1084300508_f_group2&o_s_id=1084300508

[@easymac79]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Interesting. It seems there is a lot more engineering possibilities than I thought. Eberspacher seems to be one of the originals, so gearing towards that design sounds like it may be worthwhile.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@easymac79 Yeah... I don't know how much of that is possible / practical, but there's more than one way to skin a heater, as they say.

[@gutrali]

Your safety disclaimers are a little out of hand, my friend. I can't wait until you get a controller that lets you adjust. I wish you would get yourself a webasto shower circuit so you can customize the controller... everything including ramp rates, fuel switching.. multiple pumps, fuel valves.. etc. Not just air speed and fuel Hz. Please also replace your fuel pump. They're cheap, get two new ones. Have a pump on each tank, that way you no longer need the valves and can ensure at least one pump is not full of accumulated metallic crud!!! ( because regardless of what filter you put before the pump, some amount of metallic gets through, and will then get stuck inside the MAGNETIC PUMP!! This will cause you unstable fuel delivery, because the fuel pump seals intermittently don't fully seal on each stroke... which is a really great guarantee to having the heater flame out (loses the flame). It only takes one flane out for that to stop the heater in it's tracks. ) I can tell your heater is doing this bc you need to reduce air so much ..... It's bc u aren't getting enough fuel/burn. I programmed my arduino-based webasto circuit to detect this situation if a flame out, and restart itself.

[@shanehogarth6373]

That's very interesting,👍

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... I'm not sure what you mean by "out of hand". Apparently, it isn't clear to some people that flames, backfiring and smoke filled garages are something that should be avoided ... so I find it necessary to point out that what I'm doing is not advisable. I got my controller and ecu last week and have been able to play with it a few times. It's a game changer for sure. Not as good as a Afterburner or something fully controllable, but it works. I would love new pumps, a new chamber, some new meshes... I had to sell some belongings last week to pay my phone bill and buy a few days worth of food.... Free advice... Don't bet on KZbin to supplement your seasonal income (unless you're better at it than me) haha. I have put a giant magnet at the outlet of my fuel tank, to stop stuff from getting through, but yes, two pumps would be ideal. I like the idea of a arduino-based ecu.... but I feel like I would go off the rails and my channel would turn into an all arduino channel... I'm pretty obsessive.

[@gutrali]

@@loweredexpectations4927 as am I! That's why I love your channel and your experiments. Although you would do good to just have a static opening frame in your vids, that shows your "Disclaimer" written out in text, so you can blow by it in 2 seconds. Will save viewers time. Easy for you to throw into every episode without extra work restating it. Anyway, I think having a custom circuit and two pumps is the only way you're going to get great, hands off, and repeatable results ... Bc you can have the system switch over to pure diesel + fuel system cleaner automatically , keeping it lit overnight, and helping break up the inevitable build up. Bc you must be getting sick of disassembling the thing?? haha. I think the latest discovery of a successful meshless startup is a game changer tho. Also, I think you should not be getting flames into the exhaust pipe!! Ever!! Bad news. Shows too much unburnt fuel! It's not making heat for you unless the flame happens **inside** that burn chamber, before it even turns around and hits the heat exchanger fins. A custom circuit would allow you to have an exhaust temp sensor there too to detect this scenario. Afterburner is cool, but it's overpriced for what it is. And isn't ultimately going to help you get it running on waste fuel reliably. Anyway, if you move over to a custom controller I'll be here glued to the screen. We're rooting for you either way. Don't give up!

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@gutrali I would love to have two pumps and have two separate drivers ... Instead of mixing my fuel 25 /75 , have a diesel pump at 25% and waste oil at 75% but pumping into a chamber downstream of the diesel. Would it work 🤷‍♂ ... The biggest issue I have found is keeping the burner hot enough to support the oil burn. The oil needs more air, but the air cools the burner. Create a second burn area (reduction ring) and inject diesel into the original location, while injecting oil into the new burn area... Flames should not be coming out the exhaust, haha. This is a result of the burn area being plugged. Most of the but was happening outside of the burn chamber as a result. I know that Shane Hogarth (also replied to this comment) is working on a basic stand alone setup. In the future, I may get into my own control system if time and funds allow. Cheers !

[@betto79]

So , you’re using waste oil going through a filter, doesn’t that filter get clogged? Did you try with out the filter ?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Hey... I filter my oil before mixing it and putting it into my heater. I then have a filter between the tank and pump, and it seems to be doing fine. I should be using a much finer filter, but I am using what I have at the moment. Cheers.

[@Nordic_Mechanic]

too many back fires and the inside fan will press itself toward the motor and rub against the casing :D

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Should I ask how you know ? 🤣 ... Oddly, I have never had that happen, but it totally makes sense now that you say it, haha.

[@realeyesrealizereallies6828]

My burn chamber was able to be taken apart, inserted a pure stainless steel screen, it catches the unburned oil, and it burns on the screen, I don't get all that crap in my chamber, it burns clean.. But may be a manufacturing thing, not sure...Ya, yours is different than mine...Now if you start and stop on Diesel, run on high with the mix, stop it from getting gooped up, it will probably work right..The screen doesn't melt...I think all your problems stem from your screen getting gooped up, inside the burn chamber, mine didn't even come with a screen, I added it...Your screen got gooped up because you ran waste oil on different settings other than high, and you didn't get your chamber up to temp with pure diesel before switching to mix, IMO and experience..

[@loweredexpectations4927]

I'm pretty sure that I have some stainless mesh kicking around somewhere... but I can't find it. I won't order more because I know if I do, I'll find the stuff I already had.... Where do you put your stainless screen ? I tried putting stainless (not sure what grade) scouring pad material and it almost discentegrated in less than an hour of run time. Thanks for sharing your experience. Hopefully this helps me on my adventures.

[@realeyesrealizereallies6828]

@@loweredexpectations4927 I think it would equate to right below where you cut it open, on the short piece.. Stainless has a freakishly high melting point, alot of meshes are made with several metals, that kind probably won't work, but, I don't really know..

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@realeyesrealizereallies6828 Thanks ! It seemed to have more to do with ... how do I say... an oxygen rich burn ... I put a piece of tungsten in my chamber as a test (a tig welding electrode) and it built up a lot of scale / oxides as well. This may very well be due to the placement, that's why I asked about your placement.

[@davidstevens7809]

So this design needs to be changed..it should be accessable.. with this knowledge .you should only run diesel or modify this .. the screen must be correct..

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Yes, I have some ideas ... after many many attempts and failures.

[@TheCritterWindow]

I found them screens online from china. They are called combustion screens. I have not ordered any.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the tip. Someone sent me a amazon link to them but they were listed as unavailable. I might just jam a bunch of the glow plug mesh tubes in there 🤟

[@easymac79]

Here is the problem with the 'algorithm'/'audience' Just a rant on info I guestimate is on the back of your mind. Linus from Linus Tech Tips made a great point that the algorithm is effectively designed by the audience in terms of how it learns 'retention', 'engagement', etc. Replace algorithm with audience and how many people do you know that binge watch a show, get caught up, and have to wait for the next release? How many of them bail for now and then stack up episodes? I've seen it time and time again, how watch time and engagement affects the spread of a video, but then a channel goes stops posting for 2 weeks and I will never see a notification until I remember the channel and go looking for it, by search or subs. I don't know how to beat it, no one does. But I know I look forward to the updates, and your notifications are still coming through. I recorded some testing on my heater, and ohm readings of fuel pumps. You are right. 6.5 ohms is more appropriate. IDK if I had double vision or maybe the multimeter lead had some gunk, I tried "diode" mode which read 2 [no unit], ohms, 5.5, 5.8.... I don't know where 29.5/28.5 came from or why it was consistent. I recorded a full length video, but have yet to narrate. I'm also not trying to step on you and other new channels, I don't want to do YT full time/ part-time, just sharing some tests.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Haha... I'm glad someone is putting thought into it, because I'm not. It seems the harder I try, the more my videos fail. The KZbin algorithm can make or break you really quickly... Well that's interesting ... I'm glad your readings are making sense now... I was starting to question reality, haha. The more good information out there on KZbin, the better.... That way when someone searches "diesel heater" or "heater pump" they might get something relevant ...

[@easymac79]

@@loweredexpectations4927 Case-in-point. When I replied to the other comments, this one was nowhere to be found. The ~algorithm~ audience doesn't care about formulas nor does it want to know how the hot dogs are made. I'll be sure to tag the vid with informative keywords.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@easymac79 Yeah, it's hit or miss really.

[@easymac79]

@@loweredexpectations4927 I just posted an update/ full install on my channel. While writing the description it occurred to me not to use one particular word (the manufacturing country). I was wondering if your vids or title made reference. I don't see it, other channels do. So that just shot my conspiracy out of the water.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@easymac79 LOL... Hmmm, you may be onto something there.... I'm not sure. I just pulled up your video.

[@tonyestvik7969]

Im not wont a simular to your, its beat up......😫😉🤣..... the thing I want to say, after all you have done and what you have beatten on it "THE CREAPY CHINESE DEISELHEATER" maybe istn so creapy......😉

[@loweredexpectations4927]

haha... this heater is a BEAST ! It sure can take a LOT of abuse.

[@matthewf1979]

Have you seen this? kzbin.info/www/bejne/eni3lHqFoqaVga8 Seems like this is the ticket.

[@loweredexpectations4927]

Thanks for the comment, I appreciate it, but... I have seen that video, and I personally think that guys is full of crap. He says he has been burning black diesel since October but his first video is posted on Dec 7 2022. Then he posts 2 videos on Dec 8th... He talks to people in the comments and says that he hasn't had any problems but he's working on modifying the burn chamber.... Then, oddly (predictibally) he hasn't posted a video about the heater for 2 months ? I'd be happy if I were wrong, but this is likely one more idiot spreading misinformation about these heaters. Convincing people to do what he has done, because he's either too proud to make a video telling the truth about what really happened to his heater.

[@raymondj8768]

hey Dude what year is that mini ?

[@loweredexpectations4927]

1976 ... another unfinished project.

[@raymondj8768]

@@loweredexpectations4927 o man you gotta finish that baby bro !

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@raymondj8768 Yeah... with the way things are going for me I may end up making a panic sale ... I had to sell my snowboard last week to pay my phone bill and buy some frozen pizzas and bread. No one's fault but my own, but that's the reality.

[@raymondj8768]

@@loweredexpectations4927 O wow im sorry to hear that bud i hope things get better but i know how it goes i had to sell my last race car n truck a while ago . hang in there buddy !

[@loweredexpectations4927]

@@raymondj8768 Thanks ! I work a seasonal job and I've been trying to depend on KZbin for supplement income during the winter... Turns out that was a bad idea when you make Jet Ski videos... 🤣