Daily BE | Episode 22: What is an unstructured suit jacket?

Here's a great overview on what an unstructured suit jacket is, and when you might want one.
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Often times we see unstructured sport coats for summer. What this means is that the canvas that usually covers much of a suit is now gone; you’re going to stay a lot cooler, after all, it’s one less layer that you’re wearing.
However, this doesn’t mean that the shoulder is completely unpadded. There will still be padding there, but it will be noticeably thinner than what you may be used to wearing. Again, this reduction in material will help to keep you cool.
Which brings us to linings...
With most unconstructed jackets, the lining goes away entirely. However, here at BE, we use what’s called a “1/8 lining” or “butterfly” lining. This means that the lining is only around the upper back and around the arm hole because we want our jackets to still have a little protection from sweat, and also for aesthetic reasons. The resulting shape resembles a butterfly, hence the name.
The best of both worlds!

[@mohamedsheiknur7107]

I don't think you have explained well what an unstructured suit is. You talked about the lining only. There's a big difference. Unstructured means no thick shoulder pads, no heavy lining, and no and stiff chest canvasses.

[@Hwyegeheoey]

Do you think it can be worn in the winter? I have a very broad shoulders, hence want unstructured

[@axiomaddict]

So, in essence, a structured jacket typically is more defined in it's shape, is ideal for late fall or winter, formal and semi-formal affairs, or when one simply wants a sharper looking appearance? The unstructured jacket, by comparison is for more casual situations, warmer weather, yet gives an overall more pulled-together appearance, and can be worn easily, with say, jeans and brogues, or tobacco colored leather sneakers...or something like that?

[@Typhamful]

Would it kill ya to wear it to show us what it looks like

[@Bespokeedge]

Haha, good point. I'll make a note to revisit this topic for summer 2018...

[@xonx209]

I wish you would show us how it looks wearing a structured vs an unstructured coat. Or, how can you tell if someone is wearing a structured or an unstructured coat?

[@gamemaker1234]

Is a unstructed jacket less durable than a fully canvased jacket?

[@Luiz-lj3qh]

Nice video. Hope you don't mind my asking, is there an specific body type that meets the purpose of an unstructured jacket? I am slim and 5'5'' so most suits make me feel rigid and uncomfortable because of their structures. I want to know if I should better go for an unstructured one, and if you guys ship to Perú in South America. My jacket size should be 34s or 36s.

[@Bespokeedge]

Hi Luis, Thank you for your question. No, there is no specific body type that benefits more from an unstructured jacket. All of us reap the benefits of an unstructured coat, regardless of height - better breathability, lighter feel, etc. However, a fine quality suit should still feel comfortable and not overly rigid, regardless of whether it is made in a full canvas construction or not. You may want to try a different manufacturer or a finer cloth (e.g. a Super 140 or 150 wool) to get a better feel. And unfortunately, we don't ship internationally. I would like to someday, but we just aren't set up that way at the moment. However, I think some of the big Made-to-Measure brands do ship internationally, so that may be something to look into. By the way, here's an article I wrote a while back on Fused versus Canvas construction: blog.bespokeedge.com/2016/04/fused-versus-canvas-construction-suits/ It might help you to decide if you want to go unstructured for your next suit/jacket. Thank you again for your question! Ryan

[@Luiz-lj3qh]

Hi, Ryan. Thanks for taking your time to reply to my question. I already read your article and now I have a better understanding of how a suit should be made. I'll be looking forward to the day there are the means of acquiring your suits outside USA or to visit you in Colorado and be able to feel how a high quality suit should fit. Meanwhile, I'll be following your nice informative videos here on KZbin. Best regards, Luis