Dana 30 Case Spreader : How To Make

[@markbutler6634]

When measuring the bolts to find center, measure from the same side, in other words from the left side of both or the right side of both you will have a measurement true to center to center right from the get go.

[@358trucking]

Outstanding! This will make life easier! Thank you!😀👍

[@duanethewlis9581]

Nicely done, very simply explained and designed using common materials. I'll use B7 high strength all thread, because I have access to some. However the author says it is not necessary as the load required isn't huge. My application is a 1041 Volvo RWD rearend (made using the Dana 30). In my application the carrier preload is .003" to .004" per side. Thanks again!

[@TR-nl6rj]

Great job on a very helpful video very well explained 👍

[@Carlitosway211]

I like it. Way better than those 400 set ups! You can even punch holes on the other side for another case. I'm making one!

[@ShnitzlHaus]

Thank you. I am working on a Dana 44 now and I slotted the lower left and right side holes downwards on my mill .250”, I kept the top untouched. So this one side you see in the video gives me Dana 30 and 44. If you don’t have a mill a dremel or rats tail file will work.

[@kennethfriedberg2358]

Thank you from Family Affair! In cicero ILL

[@ShnitzlHaus]

👍 you are very welcome happy to help

[@flaparoundfpv8632]

Dude, that center drill should be spinning at least 15k rpm in mild steel. Preferably 20k.

[@PandBMotorsports]

This is one of the best instructional videos I have ever seen. I work on Dana 30s for racing application in vintage Volvos. There are a a whole host of Volvo Special Service tools associated with getting the backlash, ring and pinion depth correct without having to take the carrier in and out multiple times. These tools are no longer available. Are there substitutes?

[@ShnitzlHaus]

Hi Jim, you can still purchase setup gages, just not OEM which I find to be more simple to use. most manufactures make them universal now or I believe so. I am going to send you a message.

[@ducttapeandzipties]

Is the axle in the 240 a dana 30?

[@DatBlueHusky]

omg you still alive? welcome back

[@ShnitzlHaus]

+30GB of course my friend :) thank you.

[@Sonoranvista]

Hi ShnitzlHaus Instead of all that complicated math, why didn't you simply use the differential cover as a template for marking the holes in your spreader bars? Regards Dereck

[@ShnitzlHaus]

Hi Dereck. Yes that would be quick. In that case I’d be worried about being squared up, but scribing a line offset from the edge would make it easy to line up the bolt holes by eye. Then transfer with a straight edge to the other flat bar I typically will always go the complicated way to keep my mind working in that way. It’s beneficial in other projects. I think others can go your suggested route to save time ;) good comment! Just make sure everything is squared so your threaded rod pushes evenly

[@Sonoranvista]

@@ShnitzlHaus Hi ShnitzlHaus I am not sure anything as draconian in the first place as spreading an axle case to remove the differential assembly has to be hugely accurate to the last 10000th of an inch, drilling your mounting holes slightly oversize would allow everything to line up especially when you start to apply some spreading pressure, after all you only have to tweak the case 0.015". Anyway I sure am glad I found your video as I was about to make my own version of the official tool to do a rebuild on the Dana 50 fitted in my Excursion, your tool seems a little easier prospect, obviously the hole spacings in the spreader bars will be different, I also think I can make some aesthetic improvements to your version. Regards Dereck

[@paneramix]

Are you going to put out a Dana 30 rebuild video like your T-90 & Dana 18 videos (AWESOME by the way).

[@ShnitzlHaus]

+paneramix aww gosh, I had contimplated it but not sure I will. I am currently 3/4 done my dana 30. I could possibly do a short segment with video/pictures. the most difficult aspect is getting familiar with reading the pattern. I do highly recommend everyone to try rebuilding one, life is easier with proper tools like a good in/lb torque wrench beam or more preffered dial setup bearings (machine them out of round stock, or hone/flap disk out the inside of new bearings to tightly slide on the ends of the carrier). other then a few specific tools to invest in and reading the pattern (if you decide not to use a setup gauge) the actual process of the rebuild is just as easy as the T90 and Dana 18, not kidding. those pesky oil baffles that reside under the pinion cup, substitute them with shims while your doing your trial and error on pinion depth, then on final assembly use the proper oil baffle (.020) saves you some money in baffles! like always I recommend doing as much reading as possible on the subject, the old dana 30 service manuals are good source of information! thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it :)

[@nitrofish1974]

Nicely done ✔ 👏

[@flaparoundfpv8632]

Nice results!

[@boomstickkid]

ive never used a case spreader when working on 30s. very nice detailed video though!

[@ShnitzlHaus]

I have tried both ways and agree, a 30 is okay with a dead blow with healthy hits. I will be working on a 44 shortly and anticipated possibly needing one? I will find out soon enough. thank you for the kind comment.

[@Mike-01234]

Did you need one with the D44 I found one of these on ebay for $119 I don't have access to a milling machine after looking at your video looks easy to make

[@ShnitzlHaus]

+blastman8888 milling machine is not necessary you just need something to drill holes. Drill or drill press would be ideal. You will find opinions both ways, if you want life to be easier it certainly helps.

[@waynesanders1406]

Excellent explanation and recommendations. Will this setup work on a D44 axle? I only slightly considered toying with the axles in the past but after seeing how a case spreader works (I think it's necessary to get a certain locker in my vehicle since Midas said it wouldn't fit, yet I am pretty sure it's the right aftermarket locker for my axle), I may just give it a try. Just out of curiosity, is there a measuring tool large enough to measure a carrier/locker so I can get a pretty good idea on how many more, or less, shims to start with to adjust the backlash? I've heard that is a tedious process of undoing, adding a shim, and redoing.

[@ShnitzlHaus]

Wayne, the bolt spacing is different on a D44 so you will need to measure as I described in the video. installing gears is somewhat tedious as you mentioned and you should have a good understanding of how each step influences your pattern, I suggest reading the older dana/spicer service manuals a handful of times until you are confident and understand the steps and tools you will need. you can do away with the pinion set up tool as that can be substituted with reading the pattern with gear compound, it will also fill you in on obtaining the shim pack starting point. sorry if this is a bland response but I would hate to mis communicate a step if I went into great detail. and don't let all this scare you, I believe everyone is capable :)

[@krisn8820]

I seriously can't believe the threaded rod didn't strip.

[@adamflax4225]

THANK YOU!!!!!!

[@ShnitzlHaus]

You’re welcome !

[@cliffordmcnabb3762]

Good video!

[@Hateline]

@10:10 That's what she said😆 for real though that's pretty cool little trick

[@JZH10000]

It's been a while since you last uploaded. do you still have the V4 engine?

[@ShnitzlHaus]

+JZH10000 yes, still here.. for now.

[@markbarry7538]

That did not help me much why can't you just grind out the housing to make it bigger sound more simple it's only 2mm 1mm each side

[@ShnitzlHaus]

Grind the axle housing? You want bearing preload. Carrier cannot just fall in place.