Dana 60 F350 front hub & rotor removal

[@scottc3165]

Best video on these years hub removal. And I watched them all. Thanks! Strange thing on mine was that I had the spring between the locking hub and that first ring you encountered - where yours was located behind that ring... Hubs locked up fine anyway.

[@cmonkey525]

Thanks. This definitely helped. I have the ford shop Manuel’s, but it always helps to see someone do it

[@BackstageChief]

Sir you just made my day, I too have that manual but I was still confused on the order for getting everything out. I've been looking for a video like this for a bit!

[@humunguswarrior]

I'm glad it was able to help you!

[@codyhickman7335]

Thank you for the video. Came apart as I expected. But it was nice to have a video to reference. 97 f250 with a dana 60 swap.

[@bradlee9184]

THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE LOCKING NUTS!! one of them has a little pin and goes in first facing out (towards you) that pin then locks into the middle spacer (into one of the holes) you can easily miss it and it won't tighten right. Hopefully this helps someone.

[@faronf2006]

You are so right ...and i think a lot of ppl miss seeing that .

[@bobbyboothang9275]

Good thing I saw ur comment! Thanks man

[@hectorramos627]

There’s something inside the wheel hub other than the tracers . What is it ? I broke down and looking for it . I can send the picture if someone wants to help me . 😢

[@rtrussell8932]

@@faronf2006 I sure missed it. Thank you!

[@olivei2484]

Liked the video, even though the year of pickup is different. I also liked the puppy pad for laying parts out, great idea. I have a pdf copy of the 1996 Ford Technical Manual for Trucks (150, 250, 350). See what I can do to make available to folks.

[@brucescott4753]

Once you get this far, you need to take the bolts off that hold the spindle and remove it to clean and grease the spindle bearing. These are often over looked by DIY people.this bearing is very important.

[@stevenbrann4672]

Great video. Just need the video finishing the job with the bearings being replaced

[@jayarmstrong3848]

Thank you, this reduced the stress and made working enjoyable

[@jimsworthow531]

awesome work friend; i have a 94 f350 4x4 dually and i hope this procedure is the same; is it?

[@humunguswarrior]

If it has the Dana 60 front axle, it should be the same if not quite similar.

[@glenwhitestofer6420]

Use two of the screws that hold the locking cap on and screw them into the larger gear.comes out so easy

[@elduderinolebowski5411]

This video is just what I needed to refresh my memory on how these things come apart. At about seven minutes in, the question about what the difference is between the two nuts? They are nearly identical, except: one has that little nub for the lock spacer (the one with all those holes in it) and one doesn't have that nub. It's super important to put them in the right order when re-assembling. The inner nut keeps the hub and bearings all together and in the right preload, the lock spacer keeps the inner nut from turning and changing the preload (or simply spinning off), and the outer nut keeps the lock ring locked to the inner nut. Then everything else goes in against the outer nut. word of advice: a set of picks is a great option to get that lock spacer out. If you know how to use them right (I'm not very good, but I have done it) you can get the outer snap ring out with picks, too. Maybe even the inner snap ring, though I don't think I've ever successfully done that.

[@rtrussell8932]

Thank you! I totally missed it! Somehow I must've lucked out in putting it back together because it was fine.

[@RyanBurbank-yk3vf]

Where do you get a new replacement

[@dwhollrah]

No need to take the lockout assembly apart 1.31 Pulls out as one pc. I just changed a rotor w/o doing that part.

[@codywhitmire8850]

How do you do it

[@SnakeRiverFishing]

great job, it's apart, the only thing that warrants a comment is the 2 nuts that hold it all together you have the special socket for are not the same at all, the first outer one is a straight nut, the inner one has a tit sticking out that locks into one of the holes in the washer between them. when putting it back together ( the trickier part ) you need to tighten the inner nut with the tit out while turning the wheel to set it to where it can no longer has any play and then snug it, then back off some and carefully re tighten to a very slight torque, then install the washer as you noted it will only go on lining up the big notch but must have the tit coming exactly through one of the holes as well so may need to play with the nut to effect that, this is what locks the hubs adjusting nut then the second nut goes on as tight as you can get it which locks it all together at the exact right place, I always set up my hubs on the tighter side of caution you do not want any play, then feel them as I drive to be sure they are cool

[@humunguswarrior]

Thank you! I've owned this truck since `92, and honestly, im still learning.

[@SnakeRiverFishing]

@@humunguswarrior In this day and age where new trucks are 80 grand, built from failing junk materials with unproven engineering necessitating five figure repair bills, it's a most important education.

[@brucescott4753]

If the lock washer with the holes doesn't line up with the tit the first time, flip the washer and try again. When you flip the washer over it moves the hole 1/2 way from where it was. If it doesn't line up with the tit then. Then you move the nut with the tit just a hair and try again.

[@msf206]

I’m having some issues with mine. What brake calipers do you have.? I’ve had to return six pairs already because they don’t fit. Any information would really help? Thanks again for the video!!!

[@bradallen1859]

Thanks

[@mattmgarza]

Tray Russell; At around 7:50 you were talking about how the tapered bearing wants to fall out, well mine did without me knowing it would so I have no idea how to put it back in. I was meticulous about the order of each piece so this is throwing me off. So it just goes back in first before all of the other washers? Tapered side goes in facing vehicle or facing me? Thank you so much!!!!!

[@humunguswarrior]

The taper should match the inside of the hub, which is also tapered. That outer nut more or less squeezes on those bearings from the outside in which holds the hub into place. You'll know if you put it in backwards, because most likely it won't go. Take your new bearing set, and just put it in there and rotate it by hand before you grease it. You'll know if it's right or not, just by looking at it and turning it. Let me know if that helped you.

[@mattmgarza]

@@humunguswarrior thanks so much!!! The bearings aren't gonna be new, just doing this to take change rotors. What a pain.

[@humunguswarrior]

@@mattmgarza it is a pain, no doubt, but you know what, you are learning how to service your own vehicle and save money at the same time. I don't know where you are, but it $140 an hour labor rate where I am, I'm always game to try and do it myself. Plus, I really do enjoy it. Good luck, let me know if there's anything more I can do to help you.

[@mattmgarza]

@@humunguswarrior thanks so much! I actually have a mobile auto repair service and I'm doing this for a customer, I let him know up front that I mostly stick to cars and light trucks. I plan for this to be the first and last time I deal with one of these types of axles. But he really wanted me to do the rotors so I'm doing them. I've encountered these types of rotors once before on a Chevy Colorado and I ended up just changing the pads instead. I figured this time around I had to go ahead and dive in.

[@btripodina70]

Thanks for the video! What is the torque specs for replacing the hub?

[@humunguswarrior]

I don't recall using a torque spec. I just generally tighten until it's hard to spin the wheel, because there's so much bearing pressure, then back it off half a turn. I repeat the process several times, and then leave it so that it's firm, but the wheel still turns freely. You don't want it too tight, it'll burn out the bearings. As long as it's not sloppy loose after you've driven it for 500 miles, you should be good.

[@martyg55marty57]

Thanks you. Very helpful

[@IndianTruckWorkshop]

Great work sir 👍👍👍

[@bananaboatchase4601]

I know this is an older video I was wondering what the screw is to hold in the first gear

[@humunguswarrior]

I'm sorry, I don't have a clue what size it is. If you are referring to what it's for, my best guess is to hold that inner gear in while you put the locking hub back in.

[@damianwilliams2671]

Does anyone know where I can buy the hub at

[@lewhuckleberry309]

What size is the socket!

[@neildunhamii4069]

Thank you!

[@redcircle6406]

Your video is labeled incorrectly. You did not remove your spindle. You removed your hub and rotor.

[@rtrussell8932]

your right... shows you what kind of mechanic I am. I'll fix it. Thank you.

[@13bigvern]

You say hobbyist alot for a guy that borrowed tools from your mechanic .

[@beelzebrick]

Weird almost as if a hobbyist wouldn’t have these niche spindle sockets and a mechanic would😮

[@alexchicas5957]

Thanks for this!

[@sugarnap245]

Wow, what a complete headache for what could be an hour job with digging apart the whole hub. No other way to get just the rotor off huh?

[@nutmagnet22]

inboard rotors make it a tad tougher.

[@sugarnap245]

@@nutmagnet22 once I bought the correct socket it wasn’t too bad of a job... went fairly quickly. Still frustrating to have to do all that to get to the rotors!

[@cesarsantiago2215]

Good

[@pauldemartino4007]

Similar to the Dana 44