DANGER!! Jack Pad Pinch Weld Adapter

[@rhtservicesllc]

When you raise a car, the jack is supposed to move inward so that the lift point remains in the same position. Since you have the jack not perpendicular to the vehicle, it did not move in the correct manner, and as a result the pad started to deform. This is user error, not product error.

[@ernestgalvan9037]

That puck is a piece of junk plastic. You need to buy a QUALITY adapter. Find a steel one.

[@alfredocardenas506]

Wheels shouldn’t have to be straight ?

[@rhtservicesllc]

@@alfredocardenas506 They dont' have to be straight. However the jack does need to be perpendicular to the vehicle in order to operate correctly. Otherwise you get what he got was the pad deforming

[@kenwittlief255]

The rear wheels should also be straight - those steel wheels will not roll well on concrete or a plastic coated floor, and not at all on asphalt or dirt when you push the jack under the car start about a foot away and push it into place perpendicular to the side of the car in one motion, without pulling it backwards or if you have to jockey it to get the jack in place, then straighten out the rear wheels so they will roll in. IF you have to use a floor jack on dirt or asphalt get some 1 1/2" angle iron or alum a few feet long to use as tracks under the steel wheels... so they can roll.

[@NextLevelAutoDiagnostics]

@@kenwittlief255 Great tips. This comment should be pinned 📌.

[@Elaba_]

I don't understand: a floor jack is intended to lift a car. Never crawl under a car until the car is supported by jack stands and backups like other jack stands or wheels.

[@jesus_talks]

Yes but the problem here is that the guy in the video "doesn't feel safe under the car" with the jack. You're not supposed to go under the car with the jack supporting the car. That's what jack stands are for.

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@carpe diem: At what point did this guy tell you to get under the car after jacking it up with his poorly designed jack puck..??

[@jimb4978]

Thats ok for an emergency(changing flat) but I agree ,Always use jack stands & wheel chocks when crawling under a vehicle.

[@moes2168]

Exactly. Never Ever go under a car with just a jack. lift one side, put a jack stand under, then lift the other and put a jack stand there. Then I use the lift jack and put it next to the jack stand on the side I'll be working on as a 2nd safety measure. I also use blocks behind the rear tires from slipping back. Crawling under a car pulling/tugging with just a jack is suicide. The jack can roll, fluid can leak and fail, someone can bump it etc etc etc Also, INSPECT YOUR JACK STANDS REGULARLY!!! if you have excessive rust, cracks in weld or anything, toss em.

[@moes2168]

@@ACommenterOnKZbin at 1:30 he said he definitely doesn't feel safe under it. why would he say that if he wasn't getting under it with just a jack?

[@infernolt7622]

I noticed the jack isn't rolling as the car raises. That's what's causing the pad to deform. The jack MUST be allowed to roll slightly as the car raises. Otherwise you put undue stress and angles at the jack point making it dangerous and unstable no matter what kind of pad you use.

[@jth1987leb]

The cut in the puck is too deep

[@juandef4115]

VGAPR Garage its also too tall

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@VGAPR Garage: At least you were paying attention ... !!

[@an5ama5]

You are definitely jacking up your car incorrectly and that will cause the problem you identified. The rolling floor jack must be perpendicular to the car so that as it lifts the car it rolls under the car slightly to maintain the proper lifting position.

[@imstricken06]

i have lifted many cars, with many pads. none were this soft. so soft, that your finger-nail (with pressure) would leave a temporary indentation in the plastic pad.

[@07k_motorsports24]

but your still an idiot for not raising the car with the jack wheels perpendicular to the car ,you can pretty much tip over any kind of jack by doing what you showed

[@saulcastrejon3843]

Haha right on victor tell the man !

[@u2dva]

Chandra M sm

[@osos231]

Sometimes you don't have enough space to get the jack in perpendicular.. I wouldn't go about calling him an idiot. I've lifted many cars for the past 30 years as a mechanic. The key is that either the car has to roll as you lift or the jack has to roll as you lift, period.

[@bladder1010]

As a few other people have mentioned, the jack should be perpendicular to the vehicle as you lift so it pulls itself under as the vehicle raises. You should never get under a vehicle unless you've got in on jackstands anyway. I think that puck is doing what it's supposed to do - deform itself, rather than deforming your pinch weld.

[@jimberg98]

Perfectly stated. The left side of the puck was also captured between the pinch weld and some other bracket. It wasn't going anywhere. The only thing that is unsafe here is the operator. I hope his head hasn't been crushed. My brother-in-law was a diesel mechanic and witnessed this. The guy survived, fortunately.

[@joezhu4376]

Guys, most of the comments below missed the point. What he is trying to show is that jacking up the car with the puck is dangerous. I have been looking into this issue for a while and I totally agree with him. In his car, the weight bearing point is not on the pinch weld, but rather by the pinch weld, as shown by the steel square at 0:57 in the video. These plastic pucks are not strong enough to support the weight, so it deforms, shifts and is dangerous. My research indicates that there are 2 kinds of pinch welds. In one kind, the pinch weld is weight bearing, as my 2003 Honda Civic. You can jack up directly on the pinch weld. The other kind is as shown in the video. The weight bearing point is by the pinch weld, on the car body. The pinch weld is only a guide in this case. I see that the pucks to be useless in either case. To see what kind of pinch weld you have, get your scissor jack out and see how it supports your vehicle weight.

[@ctrabucco61]

My 2 cents. Don't ever get under a vehicle supported by a hydraulic jack alone. Always use jack stands. Additional proper precautions should be taken such as using wheel chocks or even another set of jack stands if unsure. A former boss of mine died asphyxiated when unaware to him the jack he was using was leaking internally and came down slowly crushing him.

[@kenwittlief255]

another thing to consider: Nearly every part of the US is susceptible to Earth quakes - From LA to NYC and everywhere in between (remember the quake in Washington DC?) Even if the quakes only happen once every 200 years and the center is 100 miles away.... support your vehicle as if you know its going to happen while you are completely under the car. The most stable way: If you dont have to pull the wheel off, put block or wood under the tire and use that as your jack stand

[@gamewizard1760]

You said you wouldn't feel safe under the car with the jack holding it up. You aren't supposed to hold the car up with a jack while you are under it, that is what jack stands are for. Jacks are only for getting the car off the ground. You never bet your life on a jack because it can fail at any time whether you are using a rubber puck on a pinch weld car or not.

[@BriBreNic]

Nobody should ever, ever get under a vehicle that being held up by a floor jack. Use a floor jack to raise a vehicle and then get jack stands under it.

[@bpcrayfish]

The weakest thing on that jack is the seal inside of it, not that puck. You should not feel safe getting under that car no matter what, unless it is resting on jack stands

[@BensCoffeeRants]

Aren't jack stands SAFER? WHat?

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@Matthew Radloff: At what point was this video about getting under a car with the jack only..?? This video was about the cheaply designed jack puck, NOT THE JACK .... I also don't recall him telling anyone to get under the car with the jack only

[@hugeslacker]

@@ACommenterOnKZbin "I definitley don't feel safe under it" 1:30

[@ACommenterOnYouTube]

@@hugeslacker again ... he never told anyone to get under the car

[@hugeslacker]

@@ACommenterOnKZbin When he says "its pointed off to the right, I definitely don't feel safe under it" Do you think that he's implying that he would never feel safe under it under any circumstance without a jack stand, including when its pointed off to the right? Or do you think that he's implying that because it's pointed off to the right, he definitely wouldn't feel safe under it.

[@theoriginalbillholt]

That pad's grooves are unnecessarily deep for any pinch weld I've ever seen. It mushroomed because it was maximally compressed before the pinch seated in the groove. Too deep is worse than a bit too shallow yet fully capable of a secure hold.

[@stinkycheese804]

It mushroomed because the load was shifting sideways because the jack didn't roll further under the vehicle, and because the solid portion under the groove wasn't thick enough. The depth of the grove did contribute to that, at any given total height of the adapter, but there was no such height requirement for the adapter. Even worse would be if the weight all rested on the winch weld and it split the adapter in two pieces. In other words to get a universal adapter like you're suggesting that would perfectly balance the load on the pinch weld with the load on the adjacent areas, is impossible over a multitude of vehicles. It would have to be designed for specific vehicles and only used in the specific spot it is designed for. Franky, it is better to just find another place to jack it up unless it is a roadside emergency and all you have is the factory jack designed to fit the pinch weld.

[@captainwho1]

The one size fits all wedge shape to the groove did not help the situation either, not to mention the excessive height of the puck. Less ability to pull the jack forward rolling on it's wheels as it's supposed to do.

[@tdrewman]

I seen Scotty Kilmer use a Hockey Puck. All he did was make a cut down the middle. The puck is made out of hard rubber, it works great.

[@420anonymous]

Aha! I knew I'd have to buy some for the jack stands, but that's a great fix for the floor jack. (Plus, can get them for a dollar at thrift stores all day long.)

[@UncleRed1999]

If you’re going to get underneath the vehicle, use some Jack stands, raise the Jack just far enough where it has pressure somewhere on the vehicle, and go ahead and slide a tire/wheel under a lift point as well. Just as precaution

[@timerider313]

As others have stated, that jack pad is too tall for your application. Need to slice it in half with a Sawzall or something. It was not lifting from the pinch weld as intended. Instead, it was lifting from the thin sheet metal on each side.

[@artgoat]

I've never seen one that thick. The ones I have are half that thick, and the slot is only deep enough to locate it on the weld. But even on that one, if you trace the contact points and lines of force, it is still supported towards the middle of the jack platform.

[@wakeupandbord]

I noticed the same with my HDPE/rubbery pinch weld adapters. Go aluminum or steel!

[@wayditay9288]

Except when using the factory jack for emerg roadside tire changeouts, for maintenance I always look for solid areas under the vehicle for jacking. The factory designated points offer the best areas to lift. For jack stands used at those pinch welds, any adapter should both envelop the inch weld AND land on the reinforced areas above (on the rocker panel). Those rubber adapters sold everywhere are not safe and a pinch weld can easily cut through the material or tear when cockeyed causing the vehicle to fall down to at least the flats or saddle of the jack stand.

[@shabbytiger5528]

Quite, simply, the trolley jack should be set up so that the trolley wheels should roll to keep the jack directly below the jacking point and not drag the vehicle towards the jack which has what has happened in this case.

[@o0Avalon0o]

THANK YOU! I was going to buy this. Phew! I've seen DIY pinch weld protectors on a forum, I don't know if it was yours but they did say the gap cannot be deeper than the pinch weld itself; they said the outer portion isn't meant to take the full weight.

[@zamboner]

So why the OEM scissor lift provided with the car is clearly designed to hold each side of the pinch and not directly on it..

[@autohans540]

@@zamboner because the scissor jack is metal and this pad is plastic

[@zamboner]

@@autohans540 and how does material affect weight transfer 🤦‍♂️... the point here is where the force is distributed, material has nothing to do in his comment.

[@91steelblue]

Well no wonder, those are meant to use with floorjack that have the rubber pads on the jack saddle to keep it from sliding.

[@bruzote]

Wow. This video is years old and as I scroll down, I wonder if there any other previous comment until yours just now. That's a lot of time without a spot-on comment.

[@aarong8633]

Wouldn’t it be safer to just use a rubber block like they use on scissor lifts? Can you place them type of block on pinch welds? Always wonder that and how you used the blocks

[@Roadsurfer2k11]

My pinch welds on 2 Hyundai are nearly 1".... I need that deep slotted puck

[@rickt2419]

Thank you sharing this information and taken the effort to make this video. I do appreciate it. I am in agreement with a few of the view comments below (again I do appreciate the video but to be fair), as a car is jacked higher (tilting) the body angle tend pull the floor jack inward, with the floor Jack at an angle to the vehicle instead of perpendicular, cause the pinch-weld/jack point to pull on the pad instead (since the floor Jack is not rolling inward) plus the pad is as another viewer mentioned can be shortened a bit (customized to your specific car) to minimize the pad from squished/compressed to extreme. In this case a combination 3 factors (floor Jack not perpendicular, longer (or deeper groove) than necessary jack pad and the softer material you mentioned cause the pad to spread. Thx for sharing.

[@lemagreengreen]

That is a really tall puck, they're usually about an inch thick - the slot maybe 1/2" deep, that's all it needs to be.

[@tywebb355]

I wonder if a shallower one that the pinch weld bottoms out on would be better

[@jayyoung1320]

you need one with with an appropriate sized slit for your pinch weld. that being said even this cheap one looked strong enough to lift and put a jackstand under. if you started with the jack further in it wouldnt have rolled out as much.

[@AnthonyJ350]

Too tall maybe? What's the material? I've seen polyurethane versions which are a half inch tall.

[@dustindiamond2734]

Any shop you go to, including the dealer, will place flat rubber covered jack plates under the pinch welds of each corner. They are approx. 6 inches long. If this is ok, the why not just use a similar rubber covered metal block on top of your floor jack plate?

[@davidchung378]

as the comment section states... 1) never use jack alone 2) use jack stands (thats why they exist) 3) let your car rest on the stands and not the jack, leave jack under car for extra support 4) im sure thats not the correct pad you bought either dont blame the product for it being "bad" or deem it "unsafe" when you are not using it correctly

[@ernestgalvan9037]

The product IS bad. Far too soft, and far too deeply cut. It's a cheap piece of junk. I measured my jack pad diameter and depth of pinch weld, then had a machine shop make one out of steel. Yeah, a bit pricey, but my life is worth it.

[@joehyundaitech7961]

they make this small metal bar for a pinch weld adapter by a company called grip I bought one and it works well when I use it

[@thedub9031]

here's a public service announcement. you stated that you definitely don't feel safe under the vehicle. well you should never be under a vehicle that is only supported by a jack, your supposed to use jack stands for safety because jacks can and do fail.

[@MrSlowestD16]

The slots are just too damn deep in that one. Usually these work fine, but those the slots go almost all the way through & they're soft AF so it just bends a fair bit. They have them with shallower groves made out of hard rubber that work well.

[@jimb4978]

The bottom of pinch weld adaptor must touch (support) the pinch weld before the sides of the cut out for proper support. The slot on the adaptor is too deep for the pinch weld on that vehicle. I use a hockey puck & cut a 3/4 " slot,which keeps the puck balanced on the jack on my 2008 Santa Fe.

[@03056932]

use the hocky puck ones. ive cut mine almost all the way through and its still solid as a rock under load

[@bruzote]

Which makes me realize now why I have permanent dents in the skin of shins. Folks who played hockey without shin pads know what I mean. Then again, a good amount of the damage was from sticks, not just pucks.

[@sergstroble3245]

i think you raised it up way too high. also your supposed to lift the car up with the jack and put jack stands under then car. you dont hold up the car with the jack anyway.

[@nofaithjusthope8714]

Get a better jack, the one you used looked pretty small and I noticed when you were jacking it up the jack started to move inward as the car was being lifted (as it should) but stopped moving inward and that's what looks like what caused it to deform the pad when you continued to jack on it. Not necessarily the pads fault looks more like user error and shitty jack to me. You need to take your time and make sure jack rolls as you're jacking. You also mentioned it didn't look safe to you to get under there like you don't know no matter what you never get under car w/o a jack stand supporting the car...not just a jack. Throw that orange puck away too, buy a $2 hockey puck guarantee it won't deform.

[@Havok412]

nofaithjusthope It moved because of the pad though. Its not supposed to move that much. Either way that pad wasn't the right pad to use to begin with. He needed one where the pinch welds just about sit in the groove and the top of the pad also rest on the frame. The pad was too tall for his application. This is why everyone needs to measure the height of the pinch welds and then get a pad that matches it. That pad was more for a big truck. Also thats a 3 ton jack its fine.

[@geoffward2465]

Serg Stroble w

[@VictorLopez-hd2pd]

I bought a metal one from amazon with a magnet that attaches to my jack and works perfectly, without any movement, it's called a magpad and the company is www.safejack.com

[@u2dva]

Geoff Ward jtm

[@abinsyr]

The problem can easily be seen at the 1:19 Mark when you say "look at that thing". Note how the part of the adapter that is inside the pinch weld doesn't significantly deform until the area that is outside the pinch weld comes into contact with the outer part of the lifting pad on the frame. It's a similar, but reversed situation from my 2017 Kia Soul. The factory scissor jack for a Kia Soul has a large pad that is taller on the side that goes beyond the pinch weld while the narrower pad that connects outside of the pinch weld isn't as tall because of the asymmetrical design on either side of the pinch weld by Kia. A symmetrical jack pad won't work on my car, and would need to have one side shaved down to accommodate the different heights. Long story short, the grove in your pad isn't too deep, you either need to use the factory scissor jack for that vehicle or modify a jack pad that matches the dimensions of the factory scissor jack. One single jack pad, is not the solution for every vehicle on the market.

[@bruzote]

Letting the jack roll under the car could help, too.

[@dustindiamond2734]

My issue with any grooved or slotted jacking system: Unless the depth of the slot is *exactly* the depth of the pinch, then you're either lifting the car by the pinch, or the base around the pinch. If the former, why no just floor jack the pinch without any groove adapter. I'm guessing you're supposed to be doing the latter, but it is hard to trust that they beefed up the body under and near the jack point. Why don't they just weld a flat support on each corner. Sheesh.

[@timthegunguy8255]

I would try removing some material like someone suggested or I've seen hockey pucks work pretty well also which you could cut a groove in it. Of course anytime you need to jack a vehicle up you should chock the tires that will remain on the ground, on both sides of those tires (looked like car moved as it was being lifted) and then of course once your at the height you need for working you should then install a jack stand, preferably two! Better safe then sorry not that you don't know this but maybe young men who might be jacking up a vehicle for the first time. Thanks for the PSA and I really liked your videos on the safety lights & how your vehicle looked.

[@norman7179]

Once the jack is placed in the designated area, where is the best location for the stands? Obviously can't put the stands where the jack is.

[@jimb4978]

Depending on the make & model , ask a mechanic who has expierience with your make/model for alternate lift points,so you can use jack stands on the pinch welds.

[@toolmanjohnny]

There's nothing wrong with that adapter. Your rolling floor jack needs to be perpendicular to the side of the vehicle so that it can roll properly....i.e. roll toward the vehicle when jacking it up...and away from the vehicle when letting it down. When you have the jack on an angle like that, the fixed (non-swiveling) wheels will not allow the jack to roll properly...and you're left with uneven pressure and the jack trying move the vehicle....which is dangerous.

[@BOEHHO89]

Looks like the groove is too deep in the puck.

[@lioneltijerina]

Perhaps if the jack was placed perpendicular to the pinch weld, the jack rollers would compensate for the cars lateral movement as it's lifted. Instead of putting the strain on the pad.

[@daibennett9224]

Just used one on my mk7 golf,on the jack points on the car it’s like protective rubber covering the jack point,it ripped it off and now it’s just bare mental,well pissed off

[@CrainRacing]

It looks like it did its job to me, now put some jack stands under it, remove the jack and get to work. :) I can suggest putting a hose clamp around it to keep it form spreading so much. Make sure to press the puck up against the frame rail so it bottoms out, then put the hose clamp about 1/4" - 1/2" below the rail, tighten firmly and now it should no longer deform as much.

[@junkitlow]

good tip

[@DonziGT230]

If your jack would roll better it wouldn't deform the thing like that. Regardless, the deformation isn't a danger sign. Even if the thing tore or compressed further the jack is still under there.

[@samuelmdouglas]

i want my time back

[@boldmunkhtaivan72]

That's why you need to use jack stands. Jack itself should be used for lifting the vehicle. Never get under the car that on the jack.

[@AUDIO2AUTO]

That jack definitely should be moving forward as it goes up.

[@hauntedro]

Is there one of these that you recommend we use instead of this dangerous adapter?

[@imstricken06]

absolutely. im working on trying to find a good piece. the market seems to be filled with more junk than good stuff. im hoping to find something with the consistency of a hockey puck. thanks for watching, and dont forget to add us on instagram: @ImStricken06 and sign up to our new forum: www.GreaseMonkeyForum.com

[@KandP69]

Jacks do not go under the pinchwelds fellas... I hate it when I'm looking to buy a car and I see bent pinch welds. Its like seeing a dent on a door to me.

[@pinoyclass]

I think if you had your jack perpendicular with the car the jack would have moved properly to place an even load on the adapter. Since it was angled it didn't move properly and put more stress to one side of your adapter. That's my 2cents.

[@imstricken06]

nothing was saving the jell-o mold lol. pure trash. dont forget to subscribe on here, and add me on instagram: @ImStricken06 we also have a great forum GreaseMonkeyForum (dot) com

[@greenspiraldragon]

Get a different designed puck. They have other models types. The deformation is mostly because your jack moved when lifting it.

[@80shorrorronniepierce67]

just get a two dollar hockey puck they work better

[@Fireship1]

Ronnie Pierce exactly what I use at home.

[@hey.hombre]

Yeah, that's what I need. Thanks. I bought a 2 ton hydraulic lift jack and I used the metal member of the car where shops have used. One side lifted just fine to remove front tire. The other didn't quite go high enough so I placed it on ridge. That barely cleared. I thought I need a one inch spacer. Ha! A hockey puck!!! Great!!

[@dummkompf]

looks fine to me. You're not supposed to be under it when it's supported by your jack, anyways. That's what jack stands are for.

[@drizler]

make your own! Take an old piece of 2 x 4 6” long. Run it along the table saw a couple times for your channel nowhere near as deep as that plastic thing. Make the channel overly wide so you can lay a piece of carpet all across. The top and it’ll tuck down in there. Even an old shop rag will work fine to keep from scratching your car up. NThey don’t last long but easy to mass produce. Or cut a hockey puck. Anything’s better than those things

[@Daniel-dg3np]

Urethane has somewhat reasonable compressive strength but it loves to fail by splitting without much warning. Putting a wedge in it like the manufacturers have and then saying to lift a car with it is just crazy. Yes most of the time they are ok but as a device to lift cars with it's definitely not appropriate.

[@norakat]

The problem is you are not supposed to support the car on the sides of the pinch weld, but *on* the pinch weld itself. They sell metallic adapters with shallower walls. Whoever designed cars to be jacked on pinch welds is an idiot. It’s such a thin piece of metal. It’s prob a car industry conspiracy to make working on cars difficult.

[@clist9406]

What's the problem it did exactly what it supposed to do. Even if it splits in half and breaks the floor jack is underneath the pinch weld. And you need jack stands if you're going to be under the car never trust a floor jack

[@BensCoffeeRants]

Puck is way too big for that pinch weld, it's not even touching the pinch weld, there are smaller ones which would be better suited.

[@DawaSupplyCo]

Everyone, use your manufacturer’s recommending LIFTING points. Dont use a single support point as your lifting point, especially in a non emergency.

[@Daedalus_UK]

looks fine. use a stand though buddy you do not go under with a jack only.

[@jasontalbot4519]

At least it got the car is in the air. You should be using a jack stand anyway

[@poptartgofast]

THE PUCK IS LIGHTWEIGHT FOR FOUR WHEELERS U NEED A BLACK ONE. AND USE A JACK STAND

[@deadlyhighland1124]

GET THE PAD WITH 1 SPLIT!

[@henrycruz45cal]

The pressure should be ON the pinch weld, NOT the metal around it. The pinch weld is the structured point

[@elchinbabayev3754]

Thanks you share that information by us

[@davidjoe8455]

You can see your jack disk moves and pulls the pad to one side which causes the split to open up.

[@mikeprice8307]

Those work but they dont warrant but a few uses. Have to by them by the numbers.

[@johnsmith-uh1gs]

Buy a piece of 2" x 3" solid lumber - cut needed groove and install a couple of mending plates on each side. Don't cut the groove as deep as you see in the videos puck. Make one of these for each side of car.

[@TucsonDude]

DANGEROUS!! Wood can split. Use urethane pucks made for this purpose.

[@rondhole]

YOu bought the one with way too deep valley

[@jfarinacci0329]

good vid. thank you.

[@gearsspinning9762]

Make your own jack puck From a hockey puck

[@yupsir791]

Thanks for sharing.

[@stevesas632]

Nothing wrong here, just used to jack for axle stands before getting under.

[@turdbomitch9007]

Wrong jack puck bud. You need a shallower one that pinches your sills and lifts it by the sill.

[@jaseman32]

The slots are too deep for your car.

[@the_track_enthusiast]

Looks like it’s supposed to deform like that. Is universal. Click bait

[@alanduqu]

It seems that that car has a rectangular section that is suppose to be used for the lifting, not the pinch weld. Bet you car supplied jack has a rectangular top to fit.

[@bruzote]

My '85 Camaro was like that, but the car jack had a round saddle with crenelation, just like this.Every lift I did would dent the square lifting spot. Same things for some other cars. I was getting worried all that denting was weakening and even distorting my frame!

[@stinkycheese804]

It deformed to contour to the uneven placement you choce, without splitting apart. That looks like exactly what you want to have happen if you pick a poor spot like you did, not only not unsafe, but better than what you *think* it should have done instead which is stay in dimension and apply uneven pressure on the outside of the pinch weld where you placed it so that it has open cutout area right next to it, making it inherently weaker. It is sometimes amusing when people say look how unsafe this is when nothing bad happened.

[@bruzote]

While those were my general thoughts as well, I would note that the CENTROID of the deformed part that is doing all of the lift has moved to within about 1/3 the diameter of the jack's metal disc. I would think it increases the odds that the vehicle weight support on that rubber dis will shift to beyond the jack's metal disc, perhaps when you try to forcibly torque a nut or pull/push a part and give some sideways momentum to the car. The same would be true on a jack stand if you had that kind of deformation leaning to the edge of the support.

[@f1fanatic80]

Where’s a good jackpoint on the Santa Fe with a floor jack. I want to use jack stands on each corner.

[@joehyundaitech7961]

its to thick and wide and cheap plastic. I know a guy who bought a hockey puck from a sports store and just gut a slit in the puck and it worked very well

[@alexm2623]

A hockey puck actually REALLY DOES work very well - use a hack saw to cut your own V in. Won't be as pretty, but works perfect.

[@TucsonDude]

Nah...hockey pucks are non-structural rubber. Best to get a urethane puck made specifically for compression.

[@atillaozturk7075]

Cheers mate👍👍

[@jh0330u]

umm.. the rubber is doing the lifting beside the pinch welds! I thought the car was supposed to be lifted ON the pinch welds?

[@JrSpitty]

Thats because you aren't lifting from the pinch weld.... the puck too deep.

[@inkked74]

I wouldn't feel safe under any vehicle with just the jack; use jack stands! You're positioning the jack incorrectly.

[@Hahehhwgajshah72726..]

The v is too deep.The pad should only touch the pinch weld not just the floor pan like your showing.just use an inch thick piece of solid rubber over the jacks saddle and be done with it.

[@barrettgallegos2373]

As others have said in the comments, the slit in the urethane piece is way too deep. Your real issue though is that you are supposed to jack up the car from one of the jack points specified in the service manual (likely a crossmember) so that the jack can roll under the car while it lifts it up in order to maintain the correct angle. After doing this you can place jack stands at the pinch weld jack points and the lower the car onto them. In this case you are better served getting pinch weld protectors for your jack stands and just use a shop towel for the jack itself. Never get under a car that is not supported by properly placed jack stands.

[@RJN0607]

Just for the heck of it, buy a hockey puck, cut a slot in the middle, and reshoot the video with the hockey puck on the jack in place of the piece of garbage frame rail protector you were using.

[@gasgiant7122]

I was thinking of buying one of those but I think I'll make myself a wooden puck, thanks for the life saving heads-up

[@TucsonDude]

NOOOO! Wood is dangerous. Buy a urethane puck made for this purpose.

[@76biggdogg]

Great heads up bro . I wouldn't even have stuck my head under there to video that! Thats really dangerous. It looked like it was going to kick out the jack when you were lifting the vehicle!

[@imstricken06]

i actually emailed the person selling these, and sent photos. the dude had the nerve to give me attitude that i criticized his product! he says they are perfectly stable. im like: yaaaaaaaa, no buddy. refund please.

[@76biggdogg]

He better listen to you before someone gets killed . He is definitely looking at some future lawsuits. Appreciate the heads up. Hopefully anyone who bought this sees your video.

[@degreco4199]

Sounds like more of a problem with the product (poor material used) than with the concept. Concept is great idea. I just cut a 4 inch section of 2x4 and have been using that for about 55 years now. Always worked great for me. Your video was misleading (bad) because you criticized the pad and not the manufacturer. Tell us who makes this and where we can look for a better quality product. I myself will stick to a 4 inch block wood. Scotty Kilmer says he just uses a $2 hockey puck. Sounds good to me.

[@BEasay]

Do you cut a groove in the wood?

[@MerchantNation]

Seems like the need to made from steel

[@kensendelofski3761]

Wow,,, that's very unsafe. After reading several comments i still believe it's the pad it's made of cheap material.

[@jonathanluci6278]

The reason your puck is distorting is because the cut is too deep for your pinch weld. It's supposed to cradle the weld, not lift on either side of it. The bottom of the pinch weld is supposed to be touching the bottom of the puck groove.

[@ianseiler8813]

That slot in the puck is waayy to deep. That's the only problem.

[@SeanPopify]

A "v" cut, x-pattern of grooves... Both of those are problems on their own.

[@bruzote]

Maybe those cuts allow for better deformation and less risk of failure?

[@eWhizz]

That is exactly what it is supposed to do.

[@MrApaHotel]

The pad goes too high and crushes other parts.