DANGER! Sailing at NIGHT in Indonesia | Sailing & Travel Ep 324

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Sailing at NIGHT in Indonesia is full of danger, and we're about to embark on one of our longest single journeys since 2019. Although only 130 nautical miles (a relatively short passage by cruising standards) we're heading across a hazardous sea, to a place few yachts visit, with no internet and no boat services for hundreds of miles.
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00:00 Sailing to the Togean Islands
05:35 Fish are living under our sailboat!
07:00 How does a rumpon (FAD) work?
09:23 Sailing at night in the Gulf of Tomini
13:35 What is causing the engine chattering noise?
14:56 Making landfall Togean Islands
16:13 Rainforest and freshwater ashore
Thank you for watching!
Peace and fair winds!
Liz and Jamie
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Built in 1989, SY Esper is an Oyster435 cutter-rigged ketch
LOCATION
Tabilaa, Bolaang, Sulawesi: 0°22'19.3"N 124°02'33.5"E
Kanari, Sulawesi: 0°14'10.3"S 122°15'51.2"E
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[@davidclarke7728]

Thanks

[@followtheboat]

Wow, thank you, David! That's so kind of you, we're really touched. Your generous contribution is perfectly timed for a new project we're working on in which we give something back to our KZbin subscribers. If you have a moment, could you email me at [e-mail] so I can tell you more about it? Thank you once again.

[@davidclarke7728]

@@followtheboat always enjoyed your vlogs , and you always offer a reply even I’m only a subscriber, thought it was time I showed my appreciation for the pleasure you give me

[@followtheboat]

Hi David, Liz here, ditto what Jamie said. But just wanted to add that we love reading the comments and talking to viewers. So keep your thoughts coming! Liz x

[@zackworrell535]

I traveled through the archipelago of Indonesia in 1992 traveling on a large power yacht my father had built 2 years before. I left college to take the opportunity and stayed for 6 weeks. It was the most transformative trip in my life. We traveled to villages where they had not seen a white person in over 4 years. The people were so kind and I wish I had stayed much longer. I am sure Indonesia is so different now. I bought my first large sailboat last year with hopes of learning to sail offshore and hopefully one day I may return.

[@followtheboat]

Hi Zack. You may be surprised how much many areas have not changed since 1992. Obviously, I can't make that comparison but aside from internet and improved infrastructure, it's not unusual to see fishermen in dug-outs living in stilt houses still. Indonesia is so vast it's easy for communities to remain disconnected from progress if they choose to.

[@jimmyhvy2277]

We hit a big unlit Oil Ship Mooring in the Gulf of Thailand ended up dragging some heavy rope on that one . The Tables with the Coconut are for drying out the Coconut meat for Copra Production , I Believe . I have seen that in South Pacific a lot .

[@followtheboat]

Yes, copra is massive in Sulawesi, Jimmy, and almost every village processes it. Check out our second video from Tolitoli a few months ago where we explore an entire village dedicated to its production. It's fascinating stuff.

[@peterrahill9263]

3rd-time "Shellback" - now there's an accomplishment. 10:00... (I'll toast that with a swig of Jameson, later)... "Cheers!" for later. Nice to see the kraken fully employed again.

[@followtheboat]

Yes, she was getting agitated being all furled away. We love that sail!

[@peterrahill9263]

@@followtheboat Indeed - if I had that many legs, I'd want to stretch them out a bit often! Must have felt splendid.

[@peterrahill9263]

3:44 - Regarding your description of the star-filled sky: Once upon a time our Dad was doing the Navigator's job with the sextant in hand, aimed at the heavens, on just such a starry-starry night. A very young rookie seaman third class came alongside and asked, "What are you doing, CAPTAIN?" to which our Dad replied, "Shooting stars!" and exactly at that moment a streaking light across the sky appeared fall into the sea. With great jubilation, the young sailor shouted out, "GOOD SHOT, CAPTAIN!!" True story. Still a family favorite to pass along.

[@followtheboat]

Brilliant, Peter! Love that story, thank you for sharing it 🙏

[@jonathanwetherell3609]

Contrast the peace and beauty of the island with the worry of the iron topsail.

[@followtheboat]

Exactly that, Jonathan! Exactly that.

[@barbroevanderlindquist4128]

Living sea aquarium at the rodder , not bad, for free alsow and self going! Nice video as always! 🐟🐠🕊🇸🇪

[@followtheboat]

Thanks, Barbro. Yeah, those fish are a real curiousity 🤔

[@dahveed284]

The fish are simply "Following the boat" as your channel name suggests. Beautiful. It's like you have traveled back in time to the 1950s when westerners hadn't really visited Sulawesi much. A very rare occurrence these days. Enjoy it.

[@followtheboat]

Thank you, Dahveed. Yes, we feel privileged to visit these places while they are still unspoiled.

[@keangwooichoo6138]

Amazing journey in the coral triangle.

[@followtheboat]

Yeah, it really is rather marvelous. We don't really want to leave!

[@roberth7894]

Thanks for going to the places I've only seen on maps, now I know what they look like!

[@followtheboat]

It's hard work but someone has to do it, Robert 😉 Glad you enjoy the adventures.

[@jameswesthart5873]

A fascinating and remote part of the world. The amazing journey. Millions of stars glistening in the night sky above and below, the sea teaming with exotic life. What an epic adventure. Thank you so much for sharing.

[@followtheboat]

Hi James. It's a pretty epic journey through some amazing locations 👍

[@10lauset]

Wonderful episode. Wish I was there. Cheers to you.

[@followtheboat]

Thanks, Laurie. You're with us in spirit 😃

[@stephendesjardins3626]

The quality of your videos keeps improving beautifully. Every new video is a pleasure to watch. Thank you.

[@followtheboat]

Cheers, Stephen. It can be sketchy recording from a boat but we try to paint a true picture of our experiences and we're glad they come across well.

[@korhan-charlotte9171]

Thanks for sharing. Love you guys. 😊

[@followtheboat]

Thank you. We love you too! Peace and fair winds to you both.

[@markbailey6051]

Another good show! Thank you.

[@followtheboat]

Cheers, Mark 👍👍

[@danielculpepper8772]

Wonderful episode! The pacing and the sound were really spot on. The talk over was perfectly balanced with the atmospheric background. Thank you for such an successful artistic effort. You made my day!!

[@followtheboat]

Aw, thanks, Daniel. And hey, it's great to hear from you again! Hope you are keeping well 👍👍

[@dave-wk4t]

Love your channel. Your refit series is on my multi-view binge watch.

[@followtheboat]

Cheers, mate! That refit year plays over in my mind too! 😁 Liz

[@prankishsquire2663]

I'm at a loss for words, I'll settle for stunning. Love you guys!

[@followtheboat]

Couldn't agree more, they really are stunning 😃👌

[@williambunting803]

Thanks

[@followtheboat]

Hey William, thank you so much for this, it's really appreciated! In response to your previous comment, you have hit the nail on the head. Of course at the time of recording we had no idea what the problem was and we don't get to diagnose the issue fully until further down the line. We'll give a full breakdown of the issues when we get to haul the boat out soon. Thanks once again for your help. We always love hearing from you, especially when you have more of an idea of boat problems than we clearly do! Peace and fair winds to you ✌️⛵

[@ronhuff9219]

Really enjoyed this episode 🤩; thank you for sharing another part of our planet that I have never seen. You two are great ambassadors of global citizenry and an inspiration for me personally. Sending you 💜, 🕊️ and 🍀

[@followtheboat]

Thank you, Ron, that's a kind comment and we're happy you get something out of our adventures. Peace and fair winds to you ✌️⛵

[@georgemoore7196]

Fantastic!

[@followtheboat]

😃👍

[@douglasmcgill5823]

You two are great I've been watching you guys for years what a Inspirational! ! Thank you, I'm still going to catch you two some place

[@followtheboat]

Thanks, Douglas. Good to know you enjoy the videos 😃👍

[@bryanwatt9751]

Wow, looks like great remote cruising!

[@followtheboat]

It's an utterly stunning part of the world, we adore Sulawesi. If only the visa rules were easier, I'm sure we would stay longer. Liz 👌

[@peterrahill9263]

170th desktop shipmate LIKE... but is there anxiety to be shared by becoming view 860? (nevertheless, the drone footage is always spectacular). Ahoy.

[@followtheboat]

😂👍

[@williambunting803]

There seemed to me to be more engine movement than ideal. Could you have an engine mount problem?

[@theubiquitusgastronaut8273]

Utterly stunning. The sounds truly an incredible experience I can imagine. Outstanding.

[@followtheboat]

Thank you, thank you! Appreciate the feedback and yes, this place really is incredible.

[@michaelcalvert-smith4583]

How lovely. I'll be setting off next year from Europe. I hadn't thought about travelling round this part of the world but now it is definitely on the list. I love your vlog. A combination of amazement and normality. Definitely subscribed 😀

[@followtheboat]

Which way are you going? We went east from Turkey... Love it here, there's so much to learn about, and the way of life is so different to ours I don't ever want to leave. 🤓😄 Liz

[@michaelcalvert-smith4583]

@@followtheboat Well actually, never thought about going East but why not? Presumable suez, Red Sea and then India. I'm curious to know about that 🙂. I'll be buying in the Med for sure.

[@jonyboy1968]

What an amazing experience and place - as usual high quality content - thank you

[@followtheboat]

Thank you for the positive feedback, Jon 😃👍

[@keangwooichoo6138]

Going to lombok? Have a pleasant journey back to uk for christmas.

[@followtheboat]

Terima kasih 🙏

[@truenaturestormers2525]

Wow so amazing, thanks for the view of paradise. Always good to see ya.

[@followtheboat]

Thank you for commenting, much appreciated 😃👌

[@travelingexotics]

Wow wow wow! Super cool, welcome to Indonesia! 💖

[@followtheboat]

We LOVE Indonesia. 👌 Liz

[@travelingexotics]

@@followtheboat , thank you

[@jessapearlsailing7443]

Shocking and amazing video. Thank you for sharing your experience, especially on how to avoid coral reefs and obstacles in the water in remote locations. I watched the Great Circle flotilla in Fiji Islands hit a coral reef 2 times with rudder and hull damage.

[@followtheboat]

Mark One Eyeball, as they say. A keen eye and as much information as possible, and not relying completely on the charts 😃👍

[@roydaley3413]

👍I have a voltage drop on my radar and is undepenable unless I am motoring. Great videos. Thanks

[@followtheboat]

Sounds very annoying. I really don't like to sail at night without radar. 😬 Liz

[@fordyceeldred9409]

I have the same Aqua Drive set up on my Nauticat 44. I had the same sound coming from the cv. I sent off for a rebuild …. Seems some kind of internal clip was the problem.

[@followtheboat]

We inherited ours when we bought the boat 18 years ago and it was serviced ten years ago. Methinks there is an issue with it, but there's definitely something else afoot.

[@stevenplancich6449]

Wow…Ya Folks are really “Outback” this Episode…Continue to Stay Safe and Enjoy 😎

[@followtheboat]

Hi Steven. Yeah, we're getting pretty remote!

[@captainsalty56]

Nice scenery. Good to see some truly un-spoilt bits of Indonesia!

[@followtheboat]

Yes, it's an extraordinary part of the world, pretty unspoilt for miles and miles. 👌 Liz

[@BrianM0OAB]

Another great video from you two, that vibration looks very bad indeed, hard to detect the cause from the video so can't really comment any theories for a fix, that coupling does remind me of a constant velocity joint ( CV ) they have 3 ball bearings held in a cage, would only take one ball to come free and cause a problem, inbalance to a bind in movement when rotating, or it could be something completely different.

[@followtheboat]

Hi Brian. We've had a similar issue in the past and I suspect something similar has happened again, but there's definitely another problem...

[@chrisyarnold6205]

I think it is a rubber coupling, rather than a CV joint, could be that the rubber has perished and started to break down. Had something similar fitted to an old Ford car on the propshaft, and had to replace the rubber donut. Possible that engine mounts are worn, as they will cause excessive vibration.

[@BrianM0OAB]

@@chrisyarnold6205 Yeah I've changed one of those rubber dougnuts on a Ford Granada, not quite the same as they're not meant to bend but for load shock dampening.

[@keangwooichoo6138]

Just imagine sailing at night. Dangerous.

[@followtheboat]

We love night-sailing but around these waters we try to avoid it if we can, Keang.

[@SailingYachtSaltyLass]

I am so glad you did not go to Japan. This place is so wonderful. I do look forward to the resolution of the mysterious engine problem. I still worry every time I turn ours on so I can understand Jamie's issue with it. There did seem to be a lot of vibration in the shaft so my immediate guess was "A bearing has gone" and 10 seconds later Liz ruled the bearing out 😄 So much for an armchair diagnosis....

[@followtheboat]

It is wonderful but Japan is still top of our list! TBH though we're glad we've done it this way around and the prospect of leaving the tropics doesn't excite me particularly. As for the engine, it seems my worry was justified because we've discovered a number of issues 😮

[@SailingYachtSaltyLass]

@@followtheboat - at least you are warm in the tropics. The thermal gear is coming out over here 😄

[@followtheboat]

@@SailingYachtSaltyLass 😮🤧

[@danielwardin4688]

A wonderful episode, literally full of wonder! Elizabeth: If you had a crossing the equator ceremony who would have played Neptune?? And which degradations would you inflict on the initiates?? My Sunday morning is now complete! Thanks as always. Regards.

[@followtheboat]

Hey Daniel, did you ever catch our ceremony when we crossed the equator by Sumatra? It's quite a giggle!

[@danielwardin4688]

@@followtheboat I must have missed it. I'll look for it. Regards.

[@danielwardin4688]

Do you know off hand the episode number?

[@billhanna8838]

Funny but No Internet sounds perfect , Memories of the Islands (Tonga/Fiji) in the 70s

[@followtheboat]

TBH, it was a joy! I spent ages just looking at the forest through my binoculars, and listening to the noises. Incredible. Liz

[@michaelwake5600]

On the video of your drive, noting the vibration from the shaft, one of the Allan bolts looks loose!, it’s that the problem ? Hope it’s a simple fix

[@followtheboat]

Hi Michael. They were a little loose but only by half a turn, and were tightened before I shot that clip so I suspect it's an optical illusion.

[@keangwooichoo6138]

Your malay is improving

[@followtheboat]

If it is, it's very slow, Keang!

[@guineapigzed]

Great show

[@followtheboat]

Thanks, Paul 👍👍

[@MHow1900]

Where did you get the Kraken?

[@followtheboat]

That'll be from Zoom Sails. One of the first fully colour-printed sails made 😉

[@davidbrayshaw3529]

Thanks for another great episode. I'm wondering what your engine mounts look like? They do deteriorate over time and can cause excessive vibration and alignment issues that could easily result in the failure of things such as the output shaft bearing in the gearbox and increased wear of the coupling. There does appear to be excessive movement in the gearbox itself in your video which is what makes me suspicious. I hope you're not rolling your eyes at my "armchair" expertise, and you are very likely already aware of the technique, but you can use a short length of hose as a stethoscope of sorts to identify exactly where that rattle is emanating from. Hopefully, you can visually inspect the engine mounts. And even more hopefully, it's not an "engine out" job. Best of luck with it. I'm looking forward to learning of your resolution.

[@followtheboat]

Hi David. Where were you when we recorded this, eh? We could have done with your expert eye because you have hit the nail on the head! We will be discussing this in more detail when we eventually get to the boatyard. At the time of recording this episode, however, the mounts had not crossed my mind. I figured being six years old they wouldn't be an issue but having now spoken to Beta it is recommended to replace them every five years.

[@davidbrayshaw3529]

@@followtheboat In answer to your first question, please accept my apologies for my absence as I was stuck in South Eastern Australia, very much in need of a working boat of my own, given the flooding we have been experiencing. I'm not surprised at Beta's recommended replacement intervals. We tend to ignore them in automotive applications as engines tend to be "smoother" and alignment is not critical as it is in some marine applications. Fortunately, it looks like alignment is not so critical in your set up due to the use of the flexible coupling, but don't take my word for it, I'm not a professional. When the connection between the gearbox output and prop shaft is solid, however, there is no room for error. A friend of mine's father found this out the hard and very expensive way. Not only did he kill the gearbox, he then proceeded to kill the new gearbox by failing to align the input shaft within tolerances when reinstalling. Not reading the instructions and not having a couple of tools on hand cost him close to $20,000 Aud and a lot of work and frustration. Good luck! Hopefully you can replace what you need to replace with the boat in the water with the engine and gearbox in situ. I'll be keeping an eye out.

[@chrisyarnold6205]

I really should read all comments before giving my twopence worth. Well i did mention mounts.

[@followtheboat]

@@chrisyarnold6205 sorry, Chris, I saw your comment come in but was in the middle of something else and didn't get round to replying. You can join the "I know the answer" club, of which I was not a member until recently 😂

[@jeffcross923]

Have you checked the engine mounts? None broken?

[@followtheboat]

We have since this was filmed, it was something we wondered about. All will unfold in future episodes. 😀 Liz

[@jsvno]

U have to give more respect when u talk about Kraken, it is softly saying Kraaaaaken. Nice video.

[@followtheboat]

I'll try to remember that! Liz 🙃

[@nobody46820]

😃👍👏👏👏🐻

[@followtheboat]

Exactly that, Bear 😁

[@lkm5462]

Was the problem and engine mount?

[@followtheboat]

At the time of recording, I had no idea but the engine mounts will become a central theme in the episodes at the boatyard. That's a convoluted way of saying 'yes'. Top marks for observation, Lk!

[@williambremner9022]

Jamie, you look like you've dropped some weight! Looks good on you mate.

[@followtheboat]

That's what giving up booze and living on your nerves does! Liz

[@eprohoda]

folowtheboat! this is best -💫

[@followtheboat]

Nice one, thank you 😃