A Bit About Bits- Bit Basics and Snaffles

[@Cantergallop1]

Wow great video!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

[@DanielDauphin]

Thanks! We've got a far more extensive video for sale on our website called "The Bit Video." It's available as a 3 part digital download. We've also got a major online course that includes the ability to pass a test and become certifiied to be a bitting consultant. You've just discovered the first level of our info on bits and bitting.

[@margauxjones1485]

Accidentally stumbled onto this video, outstanding!! This man knows of what he speaks, at 65yrs of age, riding racehorses and 3day eventing when much younger, wish he'd been around teaching me then. Just WOW

[@sassy6292]

I searched a long time to find this level of knowledge and professionalism. There are a ton of videos out there that are awful. Thank you for doing this and for your dedication to horse training. I was coached by someone like you for many years and he would say exactly the kind of stuff you are saying so I feel right at home:)

[@laurenevans6846]

Finally!!! I have been looking for someone to explain bits in an easy to understand and concise way! This makes so much sense as to what the bit is doing when I am giving pressure with my reins (hands). I feel like everything else I have watched made this so complicated and I still never understood the mechanics. Look forward to the follow up videos on the other bits!

[@Nyooom93]

After listening to Rick Gore scream anger and sexism at the camera this is a breath of fresh air. Sir, you have a nice calm, level headed approach that mirrors my own. Sound logic and sound advice. 10/10 Mr. Dauphin!

[@suzymyers1819]

I've been riding and back-yard training for. . .let's say awhile. None of us have it all figured out. This is an excellent reminder with great pointers!

[@shaymcdowell4054]

Great video! Thank you for taking the time to make this. I have been riding for over 20 years, and you really helped clear up some of the popular myths about bits, thanks again!

[@francesca.lehtonen]

I am currently binge watching your videos! Pretty bloody glad I came across your channel...... awesome information and I love your delivery!!

[@bayroot510]

I'm only 7 mins into it and it's the best I've seen on snaffle. This is exciting!

[@joycenesselhauf1220]

I can’t thank you enough for doing this series! For me bits have been the most confusing part of having horses. You’ve made it very easy to understand. Not everyone is good at teaching, but you are! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. It definitely benefits the horse and rider relationship.

[@jcislord8916]

Wow... i've watched and studied many clinicians, I can't believe you make any money doing this. You GIVE so much valuable information away, which is not or is rarely seen. I consider myself a better than average rider and I do train a few also, but I am always looking to learn more or refresh my bad memory. You are an excellent teacher and I appreciate your videos... you have a new follower.

[@DanielDauphin]

Thanks and you are correct! We are broke! In all seriousness, I don't yet have much name recognition so these videos give you a feel for how I am and whether I know what I am talking about or not. Spread the word. I promise, I've got lots more to talk about!

[@lanacall9819]

What an awesome video Daniel!! too few people get this info when they start to ride horses, so happy you put this up...I never knew you can use a slober strap on a snaffle...I will be putting this safety belt on my bridle today!

[@kikiza123]

An interesting point about the "no wrinkle" thing! At my barn we teach universally that there should be no more than one small wrinkle. The gelding I ride spares no expense in pulling the reins out of your hands to get his head even on a loose rein, lol; I'll try loosening the bridle a little and see if that's not more comfortable for him.

[@Lizzard2060]

I've also found this issue on horses who have dealt with tight handed trainers (yes, the trainers and not owners) and practicing communication with your seat and mouth first before even reaching to barely tighten the reins can help. Then some horses also just need a special bit like one horse who was a rein grabber had to have a spinner on his bit, just had to have something for his tongue to do so sometimes even when we pick a great gentle bit it may not be what is needed for our particular horse.

[@Hey67Jude]

Wow!! we are at opposite ends of the spectrum as I only have my 1st horse, a few various lessons and so very little to go on. Your presentation is amazingly clear & easy to follow and remember. No doubt I will go thru each one that is available here. So a BIG thank you!!!!

[@DanielDauphin]

Hey67Jude thanks for the kind words.

[@l-4ranchhorsetraining610]

Love this video! The information is great, simple and clear. These are all the things I was taught and continue to work on, and what I teach my clients. Completely agree that if you don't understand how the equipment you're using works, you aren't going to correctly and effectively use it.You're also the only person I've seen other than my trainer and myself that rigs the bit hobble on a snaffle that way, for the same reason.Anyway, great job! Excellent video.

[@StuckInNy]

Thank you for providing this video. This is not the first time I've watched it. I was here revisiting it today. Thanks Again!

[@Lizzard2060]

Thank you for the validation. I too work with "problem horses" and I always see them brought in with chains through the halters and huge shanks on the bits with bars with ports that dig into the top of the mouth so when I pull out a rope halter and snaffle people think I am crazy like "my horse will kill you" and their horse doesn't want to leave because no one is causing them pain. The horses all do fine in snaffles because we get communication back with quick releases, no pain, and asking them to do what I want instead of trying to force a 1,000+ lb animal because I know who will win the fight. Going back to basics to find any loopholes in training and work our way through them with gentleness is what it is all about instead of adding more and more and more harsh bits. I have gotten told, like others on here, to just use a harsher and harsher bit. However a wise horseman told me "If we are training our horses each time we ride then why would we be needing harsher and harsher bits the more we ride them?" and he had a valid point. It was John Lyon's back in 1997 explaining why harsher is never the answer for better training.

[@abbylile698]

I am really enjoying your bit videos! Thank you for explaining proper placement, that's exactly what I was researching on KZbin tonight :)

[@okgearheads3551]

I want the 900 year abstinent Monk bits with the gin sew knife set! No BS this is a great video as I'm getting schooled for my kids first horses and My first in over 30 yrs. Thank You!

[@hoofhearted3035]

Great information. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. There's no substitute for years of experience, and you certainly have it. God bless.

[@katiebutland292]

I was always questioning why people think faster twists have more bite, it just doesn’t make sense with the surface area! Glad someone thinks the same!

[@sseeback6754]

I am glad I stumbled upon these videos about the different styles of bits, their mechanics, and what disciplines they are generally geared toward. I want to be the best communicator to my horse without causing him discomfort.

[@SCpoohpa]

Great video.. I am not a horse person so I watched your videos on bits because I am teaching a Sunday School lesson including James 3:3 Indeed, we put bits in horses mouths that they may obey us, and we turn their whole body. I needed to understand how a bit works... Great video.. I enjoyed it way longer than I needed to get what I needed.. Thank you

[@DanielDauphin]

Thanks for checking out our stuff. I'm glad you found what you were looking for and thank you for giving of your time and doing your due diligence in spreading The Word.

[@ariellewilson730]

Bit topics are my favorite topics, especially when people accuse them of being bad. It's always the hands, yet there are bits that are harmful no matter how much experience the rider has, like the one with the spikes on the mouth piece.

[@homeedconnect]

I'm late to the game, but wanted you to know I heard you on the Whoa podcast and couldn't wait to hear what you had to say on KZbin. Thank you for sharing what you know! This stuff should be basic horsemanship, but it's so rarely addressed. Thanks again!

[@DanielDauphin]

Glad you found us and the Whoa podcast was sure fun to do. Thanks!

[@birdman054]

I found a video on teaching neck reining, I'm gonna watch again. Any kind of riding 101 videos sure would be helpful.

[@birdman054]

Sir, I'm a green rider/trainer, and have been told I'm heavy handed. I do not want to be. I want to have the best riding experience for the horse to improve them. I am improving through video and watching myself riding. Now, I want to thank you for these videos in teaching me both about the horses mouth and the bits. Again thank you for the video.

[@Cecilyeg]

I love your comments about the bit not being the problem, it is the hands handling the bit. I say this all the time!!

[@ezralee2221]

Ah! Thank you so much! Lately, I've been trying to learn about the different kinds of bits, and I've had such trouble.

[@johntaft112]

Hey Dan, I just discovered your videos and web-site a couple of days ago and I reeeaaaaaaaaallllllllyyyyyyyyy like what you have to say. It's straight-forward info without the dung that often comes with it. I wish you had many more to watch.

[@DanielDauphin]

Thanks! More is forthcoming.

[@joelgordon6554]

Our hands. The most important part of any bit. My! Empathetic wisdom which will hopefully save many horses some suffering. Well done!

[@kbugelli93]

What a fantastic video, so simple and concise. This was exactly what I was looking for. Just brilliant. Thank you !

[@ljmcgill]

Great information, straightforward explanations. Thank you.

[@kevinmalloy2180]

A great 3-part series to make sense of the (initially) confusing world of bits! Thanks from a beginner!

[@DanielDauphin]

Just this year we’ve come out with an even more thorough version available as a dvd or digital download.

[@hilarysugg8033]

Seriously good information...but Hilarious regarding your description of the $200 bit..I am going to try and learn that off by heart so the next person which comes into the saddlery I work in and asks me about these expensive gimmicks I'll have an answer. Thank you Dan!!!

[@nohillforahighstepper]

Good video. The wind made it a bit difficult to hear at times but the content was spot-on. IMHO. I also set my curb strap behind the reins on my O-ring snaffles. As training progresses, I also may tighten that curb a little and add some chin pressure before I move them into a transition bit. Tightening the curb also makes the rings a bit less loose and helps transition into a less loose cheekpiece (like an Argentine). I find it makes the move to that new bit just a bit smoother. Personal preference...

[@Gabihorse]

I liked what you said, very well said that with or without bit , the hands are the villains here there is still metal on their mouth, I wouldn't like that, but you taught us very well

[@silverkitty2503]

Having a license for some bits is a great idea!

[@yahooy92]

Great clip for the newies to understand basics on bits. Will watch your other clips now.

[@lambfam5876]

Thank you! I’m a newbie, daughter is getting her first horse and that really helped

[@armoredwings4182]

I personally ride bitless on my horse, but these videos are really helpful when I want to learn something. I do have a question; I'm riding a horse for a lady at my stable. She can't ride anymore due to a knee injury so I am helping one of her horses get exercise. He's currently in a stainless steel Turn Two double rein bit with the reins on the shank part. He responds well, but he's hard to stop when he starts gaiting quickly (He's half Saddlebred, so he gaits and he gaits as fast as my non-gaited Saddlebred Arabian can run). I'm thinking of switching to a different bit for him to soften him up, I'm currently looking at an old Sweet Iron shank bit that I have, hoping the iron taste would calm him down? If you have any other ideas, I'd love to hear them. I don't want to switch him to my hackamore as I don't trust him yet and I don't think the owner will let me go bitless on him anyway.

[@DanielDauphin]

I wasn't familiar with that bit, so I googled. What came up was a single jointed shanked bit similar to an Argentine "snaffle". It's always tricky riding someone else's horse. Frankly, I'd avoid changing their bit around. The simplest thing to do instead is to work on downward transitions. You want the horse to be looking for their spot to relax so that your seat, not the bit, is what they respond to. At first, when he runs through the bit, simply take one rein and bend him around until he slows. This may well be ugly at first, but a sharp bend should kick him out of that gait and refocus his mind on you. Of course, this is best worked Omar slower speeds first, only moving up to faster speeds when control is established.

[@armoredwings4182]

Daniel Dauphin That seems like a good idea. Thank you!

[@skyetouchet7242]

What would you advise for a barrel prospect to keep collected and not to where I am in their mouth as much but also to have a little bit of rate?? I have very soft hands and I don’t like to play in a horses mouth bc of the fact I believe the less I have to play in their mouth the more results I will get and also the less reacting I will get(more then the natural frame of a horse).

[@cathykaech5900]

Thank you for your excellent presentation. You are a good teacher.

[@goldieappy25]

Definitely gave me tons of information that I can’t wait to apply! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@evyrichard3844]

Thanks a mil! could be a bit shorter but great feeling that you really want to create the best partnership, based on clear communication and respect (and horses' smiles!;-) Would you please demonstrate as well the leather parts, especially by the horses' ears? there are a few straps types, loops around the ears etc, What are your feelings/ recommandations about this? How do you recognise whats most confortable for the horse(body language clues?) Thank you very much. And very cute kids by the way!

[@InquiringMindsKnow]

Tons of valuable info - thank you! I got a 17 yr Arabian gelding that is being re-started and has hardly been ridden over the years. I am struggling trying to figure out what bit to get him for the trail. He is very light and gentle, even to lead. Very intelligent, and tons of try. Never had a horse with so much try and desire to please. My trainer is using my eggbutt snaffle. I usually use a swept back copper/iron Tom Thumb with my other Arabs on the trail. I want to use something better and I was thinking of a Mullen iron/copper mouth dog bone with short shank, swept back, Argentine bit. SO that it has loops to be used as a regular snaffle and then a short shank for the trail. I want to keep him light but have control if I am galloping on the trail. His mouth is narrow, like a 4.5" and I am having trouble finding a 4.75 bit. The 5"'s seem big to me. I would love your opinion and suggestions. I like your loose ring snaffle work. I have one and will see if the trainer will use that instead. Also, Amen to the NO Wrinkle at the mouth!!! I have always believed that and get slack for it. Even this trainer has the bit so high up in his mouth he is struggling. She said it is to keep him from putting his tongue over the bit, which he still can do as he tries to find some relief... What do you think?

[@DanielDauphin]

from what you are describing, I don't see any issue with staying in the snaffle. The shanked double jointed bit is a tongue pressure design that a sensitive mouthed horse will possibly not appreciate, so I would be careful there. Also, the snaffle being a little too wide won't matter. A shanked bit being wide is a much bigger deal.

[@timberpaintsranch9482]

Excellent information! Thanks for making this video!

[@marciae.alvarez5961]

Love this video, very informative and great presentation. Thank you!

[@GaryMcLaren-f2q]

I have been riding for a long time & I rig my chin strap same as you. One place I differ is my favorite snaffle is not broken

[@chewar7537]

Excellent video!!!! You are great at explaining bits :)

[@tropicaoptica]

How do you care for your sweet iron bits? Many complain they rust so quick....

[@DanielDauphin]

I let them rust. I wash them off with a hose. I’ll scrub them with a brush occasionally to get any gunk off. Other than that, let them rust. The rust gives them texture and makes them easy for the horse’s mouth to hold. Shiny and smooth looks nice, but causes mouth fatigue because those bits are like wrestling a greased pig to the horse.

[@tropicaoptica]

@@DanielDauphin Okay, makes sense, will try it out, thank you :)

[@RLB-wb4ms]

thank you very much for going so in depth on this

[@belindaleighfrazier8165]

I need 1" double stitched headstalls with split reins and cannot find anywhere. Can u point me as to where I can order them??

[@DanielDauphin]

I wish I could. Need a half dozen or so more myself. Used to get them from KI Trading, but they seem to have gone out of business.

[@Miss-Laine]

I don't ride or have a horse but I'm just curious.... if the horse is used to having a bit with two wrinkles in corners of his mouth and feeling pressure , will he behave/ride differently with loose bit? Thx

[@DanielDauphin]

That's a hard question to answer definitively. So, will they potentially spend some time playing with the bit and mouthing it as they get used to the new position? Probably. Will they still understand the basic bit signals that they've been accustomed to like, left turn, right turn, and stop? Yes, they'll still understand what you're asking. This should be a fairly subtle change. If the bit is dropping more than 1/2" or so, you either dropped it too low, or had it ridiculously high to begin with.

[@francesmccarthy9101]

I'm a novice rider and I ride with an O ring broken mouthpiece snaffle bit. I believe in another video of yours, you mentioned this type of bit is a lateral bit. To stop, should you use one rein at a time?

[@DanielDauphin]

To stop, you should lower your energy and "sit" in the saddle. I would use my reins to help keep the horse in frame. I might pull just a little on both reins if the horse did not respond, but if I needed to go beyond that I would use only one rein. This would be a great video.

[@elizabethalfonsi6976]

Can you please explain when it is needed to go from a leverage bit back to a snaffle? For example a 5 y.o. who isn't following nose

[@DanielDauphin]

There's generally only 2 reasons why I'd go back to the snaffle. 1) To give my horse a break and take off some pressure. This would be especially true for older, solid as can be show horses. The road wears on them and they know their jobs, so it's fine to allow them some really easy decompression type rides. 2) To fill up holes that I didn't know were there. Sometimes we think a horse is ready to transition and we realize afterwards that some lessons, like following his nose, weren't nearly as well understood as we thought. Now, you're always going to find some issues that need refining. That's a major reason why we graduate them up. Sometimes, however, you realize that you're really going to have to overhandle them in the curb bit just to do basic stuff. That's when I'd back up and fix the issues. It's important to not hold this against the horse. The person did the training and made the decision that it was time to graduate. This is the fault of inexperience of the rider, not the horse.

[@DanielDauphin]

I'll also add that these videos are on bits, so that's how I am approaching my answers. In truth, the bit/reins are only about 25% of the equation. Any horse transitioning up to a curb bit still has the benefit of the rider's seat/balance/legs to communicate the rider's intentions. Very often when we see problems like you described above, it's an indication that the rider is depending on their hands WAY TOO MUCH and they really need to learn more about the basics of riding with their body. For this, I actually put them on one of my horses in a roundpen without a bridle/halter/etc. After a few lessons on just using their body, we can generally get them riding better and not omitting so much of the communication the horse relies on by being so depending on puling on the head.

[@zentaurianriding4378]

Important to UNDERSTAND how the design of different bits work in the mouth. A young/poorly trained/'acting out' horse needs the softest bit possible to learn to trust contact with the bit. A super well-trained horse only needs the softest bit possible. Snaffles should be the #1 choice for anyone, and contrary to what's said here, a SHORT middle piece prevent the nutcracker effect of two-piece snaffle bits, and should always be tried first. Eggbutt-, and D-ring side-pieces should be the first choice, especially if your hands aren't very sensitive compared to loose rings. The mouth is the most sensitive part of the horse. If you have a horse that is in pain, or scared that it will hurt you'll get a tense, essentially untrainable horse. No bit-gimmicks! NO leverage needed, no painful designs. Train yourself. Train the horse.

[@DanielDauphin]

The nutcracker effect is a myth designed to sell more bits. The double jointed bits you speak of would not only be capable of the nutcracker effect were it real, but are going to inflict more tongue pressure. Too much tongue pressure is the number 1 cause of mouth vices and defensive reactions to the bit.

[@mariapazaristeaguirre4491]

many thanks. What bit would you recommend for an arabian horse with small face? A mean, measure and type

[@DanielDauphin]

That would depend on the training stage. With a snaffle, it's easy. You simply need a bit that is at least as wide as the mouth, and perhaps a bit wider. The bit could even be an inch wider than the mouth for a snaffle and all would be ok. With a curb bit, particularly with higher ports, it does become pretty important that the bit is just right, not too wide and not too narrow.

[@mm25937]

Snaffle bits do they also work on one handed riding, or only on two seperated hands?

[@DanielDauphin]

I sometimes ride a snaffle with one hand if I’m not being serious or technical like an easy hack or trail ride. For arena work though, two hands.

[@mm25937]

@@DanielDauphin and what do you ride one-handed?

[@DanielDauphin]

Curb bits beyond the transition stages are ridden 99% of the time in one hand. Snaffles and greener horses maybe 10% of the time one handed. Mid-stage horse’s transitioning up are ridden progressively more in one hand, only dropping back to two hands if/when they get confused and need more help. At least that’s a typical progression in the Western world. An English horse would almost never be ridden one handed anymore.

[@paigedemarco7149]

I have a question. I have a jumper mare that I am showing next weekend in jumpers. The first time I rode her, she went in a slow twist D snaffle, however, she seemed very sensitive to that pressure and tried to throw her head. I know she has a soft mouth, and I am a rider with soft hands. I'm not sure if It was just me getting used to her or me being a tiny bit nervous, or if she really doesn't like that bit. The following weeks, I used a Regular D snaffle. She went much better and seemed happier. However my problem arises when I am deciding which bit to use for the show. I know that she will be really amped up but I still want to be able to maintain control without her tossing her head too much. Please help if you can, Thank you

[@DanielDauphin]

That is pretty tough to say. First off, if I have a horse to show that is new to me, or showing in general, I'd always want them a little tired so that I have to push a little more than at home. As to the bits, I'm afraid you will just have to try them and see. If your mare is the type to look around lots and keep her attention everywhere BUT ON YOU, I'd use the stronger bit. If she is well seasoned and not a "flight risk", I'd go with the regular. She may even need to be warmed up in twisted and then shown in regular once the frost is off the rose. Good Luck!

[@trashbarn]

Wow this is so helpful! I'm new to horses. Thank you for your time & information 😁

[@scottdouglas518]

Great videos. Appreciate the time you've taken to educate us. Q: for a 10 y/o mare who has done a bit of everything including barrels, would it be feasible to just trail ride and arena work in a zero leverage snaffle? She turns great but sometimes seems to not slow down so good. Thanks.

[@DanielDauphin]

Certainly! How well they rate SHOULD be tied more to your seat than hands. If that isn't the case, it is a training issue, not a bit issue, and I would drop down to a simple snaffle to fix it anyway.

[@scottdouglas518]

+Daniel Dauphin Roger that on the leg and seat cues. My wife will work on that. One further question then: with proper body cues, would a person be able to neck rein with the zero leverage, d-ring snaffle or are we asking the bit to do something it is incapable of providing? This bit is really for two rein training and lateral flexion development only?? (This mare is new to us and the previous owner provided us with a nice sweet iron snaffle. She will just be trail ridden and used for rider improvement in arena for now) Thanks Daniel

[@DanielDauphin]

+Scott Douglas I can't say that it isn't possible, but it is certainly harder. This comes down to signal, which is everything they feel before contact. Leverage bits have a lot more signal than non leverage bits so the gap the horse has to figure out is larger and less clear.

[@Mckinzie13]

What would you use on a horse that pushes though the bit and will not stop and rides in a O ring snaffle with a roller (3piece) and is worse in a single break

[@DanielDauphin]

Kinzhorses better techniques. That horse needs a LOT of pulling on one rein at a time to laterally soften them.

[@Mckinzie13]

Daniel Dauphin thank u

[@bamaalltheway1984]

This may be a dumb question but do you always transition from a snaffle or do you ride some horses that just always continue use a snaffle?

[@DanielDauphin]

bamaalltheway1984 that is a good question, actually. There's nothing wrong with continuing in a snaffle indefinitely if none of the reasons that you'd usually move to leverage bits apply. I have several lesson horses that just about always go in a snaffle.

[@ponyabouttown4981]

Loving your videos, thank you for making them

[@DanielDauphin]

If you’d like to learn more about bits and bitting, we suggest our new DVD, “More Than a Bit… o’Information”. It’s the most comprehensive and thoroughly vetted information available today. You’ll understand how to communicate better with your horse and understand his side of the reins more fully. We describe things from the basics of English and Western and even go into advanced Dressage and Vaquero stuff. Novice to Pro, there’s lots of good info for you. It will pay for itself the very first time you don’t buy the wrong bit. www.dauphinhorsemanship.com/product/more-than-a-bit-o-information/

[@texasbackroads55]

What bit do you recommend for a heel horse ?

[@DanielDauphin]

@@texasbackroads55 that's impossible to say. It would depend on lots of variables, including who is riding it, level of training, specific weaknesses/strengths, mouth conformation, etc.

[@Conny226]

Can you change a horse in a new bit right away or do you have to get them used to it slow

[@DanielDauphin]

All depends on how radical a change that bit is and what frame of mind the horse is in. A really troubled or green horse would take more time to acclimate as would any horse to a fairly different new design.

[@Conny226]

@@DanielDauphin okay thank you I was just wondering because I bought this 21 year old trail horse and she been in the bit she has for ever, she is neck reined . I am taking her to a trail seminar and the guy who teaches it wants the horses in a Snaffle what can I do ? She is not used to hers. Thank you for answering so quick.This is my first ever horse.

[@DanielDauphin]

Your horse, your $$$, your choice. I might try the snaffle but I wouldn’t make a big fuss if a 21 year old was set on something else.

[@Conny226]

@@DanielDauphin thank you

[@kayBTR]

I saw a trainer on RFD TV doing a show on riding bareback. His horses' mouth kept gaping wide open. I asked on his Facebook page why his horse was doing that. His answer was "it was the first time she had been ridden bareback and she was nervous." Does that make any sense to you?

[@DanielDauphin]

Nervousness can certainly be expressed in the mouth. That being said, it's a lot more likely that they were simply overusing their hands, especially helping to balance themselves while riding bareback.

[@DanielDauphin]

Hard to say without seeing the video myself.

[@kayBTR]

Daniel Dauphin Thanks so much.

[@kaileynmceneaney5839]

You seem like such a kind person!

[@lorinaball2863]

i have a question. k so i mostly ride in a Myler bit i have a D ring on my older horse shes 20 and she has a carriage issue bring her head up really high and evades the bit. What would you do about a situation like this? What bit do i use on a horse that has a hard time giving into the bit? and iv changed bits a couple of times.

[@DanielDauphin]

lorina ball your mate is trying to evade pressure from the bit. Likely, it is the timing of your releasing that needs work. Get harder on her as she goes up and back off as she comes back down. Timed properly, she'll feel as though she is in control of the pressure and will choose less or no pressure. A short martingale can help to change the angle of your reins so that bar and tongue pressure still occur when she goes up. Be sure not to lean forward through any of this as the top of her head is much harder than your face.

[@thisiskendra15]

My horse likes to chew on bits and I don't know why, or if it should worry me. He doesn't do it while we're working, but any time we stop at all he chews. He has gouged tooth marks in several bits. I've mostly used snaffles on him of varying mouthpieces, worn farther down in his mouth as you demonstrate in this video.

[@DanielDauphin]

While we always want to make sure our horse's teeth are properly taken care of, this issue is usually one of nervous energy. Some people can't sit still, but are more comfortable being bored if they can chew some gum. For these types of horses, I usually like to offer them a bit that has a moving part. There are a variety of styles that will stay within the fundamental function of the type of bit you are currently using, but if he can play with something with his tongue, he'll usually appear a lot more outwardly calm.

[@chadspencer9302]

What would you work on a three year old Tennessee Walker Pleasure horse she is keg shod? It’s hard to find a lot of info on gaited horses. Need some advice brother

[@DanielDauphin]

I'll start by saying that I know beans about the specifics of gaited horses, though I have started several dozen of them. That being said, I do know a couple of the big boys in that world and they don't seem to disagree or differ with me on the bits and uses. So, I'd start with a single jointed snaffle and work on getting them soft and lateral. When that's done and they are safe and reliable, I'd move to vertical stuff and start worrying more about gaiting.

[@DanielDauphin]

I'd look up Larry Whitesell and I'm drawing a blank on the other guy's name right now, but he does dressage with Walking horses. You might find him via that connection. Either way, there isn't, or shouldn't be, nearly as much difference as you might hear.

[@DanielDauphin]

Scott MacGregor is the other guy I'd look up for gaited horse stuff.

[@amac6528]

What bit is best for a hard to control horse.? He throws his head shakes his head around and Pulls down , almost to the ground to get out of me turning him.

[@DanielDauphin]

+Kim Smith I would be using a plain Jane snaffle, or maybe a twisted wire snaffle to deal with that behavior. For starters, you won't fix this by pulling on both reins, so, I'd stop that right off. I would go to pulling him around with one rein. If he is trying to out muscle you with one rein, I'd also go to using a strong inside leg to help break him at the ribs and encourage bend. If that didn't work, I might go to kicking him up to a lope or canter each time he pulled on me. He might think that he's won the first few times, but after an hour of running around, he'll realize that all he won was a lot more work. It always comes back to making the right thing easy and the wrong thing difficult. If he is soft and obedient in his mind, any bit will do. If he is resistant and willful in his mind, no bit will work. The bit is not the solution. Getting into his head is.

[@elyceellington9470]

+Daniel Dauphin Go back to ground work. I had a horse that tossed her head like crazy. I went back to ground work, then gently reintroduced the bit. She is much better. Basically, the horse is not listening to you when you are on it. Go back to ground work and get the horse listening to you on the ground. Minding you very well on the ground. Also, your saddle may be causing pain, or the bit is causing pain. The horse seems to be telling you it's very uncomfortable with something. We got the ground work done, then put the snaffle in her mouth. Then ever so gently applied pressure standing in front of her to one side when she gave we immediately released. Then to the other side. Extremely gentle pressure then release till she accepted the bit. Then got on and very gently applied the pressure at a walk. The horse should be responding with with almost no pressure. Plus you use the legs, seat etc for turning. Look at freeriding riders, great examples of controlling a horse with seat and legs. We should not be controlling a horse by brute force, you can never win, and you hurt the horse a lot. Nobody wants a brutal fight with every ride.

[@kristylarson7832]

Thank you for taking the time to teach us!

[@carlyelisabeth]

Thank you so much, very informative. I’m just learning and have watched a lot of videos and this was perfect.

[@mariapazaristeaguirre4491]

Please explain ore about the "hands down" (severe issue) Thanks

[@DanielDauphin]

I am not sure I understand what you mean about "the hands down". Please clarify and I'll do my best to explain.

[@skylersherker3005]

what are your thoughts on double jointed bits and bits with different cheek pieces like egg butt or d ring?

[@DanielDauphin]

The O ring does offer some advantages, but among the D ring, Eggbutt, and so forth, the difference is very minimal. Pick whichever one you think is most stylish. As to the double vs single jointed bits, we have a video on that topic. That video also covers correction bits, which may not be of use to you, but we go fairly extensively into the difference in the mouthpieces.

[@keithtaylor6069]

OMG. Thank you, the hands!!I have learned so much

[@ponysoldier2537]

Great video, learned a few things, thanks.

[@hannahmcdonald3442]

Awesome video and way of teaching! Do you ever come to Northern California?

[@DanielDauphin]

Hannah McDonald we go wherever we’ve been invited.

[@TomasMatos1]

Thank you , excellent video.

[@kevinferguson2278]

Mr. Dauphin I think your bit knowledge is great and you're very informative on purpose and usage. I too believe that the hands are the single most important tool in communication regardless of bit or bit less head gear. Also I believe the type of rein used also plays a big role in the softness of a finished riding horse. By type I am referring to leather vs any other type of material used on a bit. I am convinced by using and showing others that a leather rein of flat 1/2" leather or less or as in what I use, which is roughly 3/8" square leather, plays greatly in the softness of training to get a finished saddle horse. My belief is that the less weight on the horse's mouth and head (including the headstall) the better. I think plain flat leather reins provide better, softer and quicker action/connection with the bit. Your opinion?

[@DanielDauphin]

This is a very good line of questioning. I've intended to do a video on reins for some time, as they are an important part of the equation. I will say that my experience is somewhat in contrast to yours on this, however. I find that horses seem to do best with more body in the reins, or, in physics terms, mass. Diameter isn't as important as mass. I've definitely noticed that horses get more responsive and less irritable when we use a heavier bit, and just the opposite as the bit gets lighter. That being said, there are bits, like the two pounder, and certain heavy curb bits that take things too far that way, showing that there is a "Sweet Spot". I believe, though I can't prove, that the lighter or flimsier reins simply have too much vibration which irritates the horse when transmitted to the lips and the tongue. I also notice this affect amplified when we have a metal snap that connects directly to the bit. Look for an upcoming video to explain this further.

[@kevinferguson2278]

@@DanielDauphin I can understand what you are saying and reading my original reply maybe I should rephrase. What I meant to say was I think plain leather reins provide better and quicker connection with the bit than do cotton or even braided leather reins. I used One of my horses for mounted police work for 11 years and trigger snaps were not allowed but regardless I would never recommend using them but for different reasons than you just mentioned. I am going to watch your video on reins as I see it is posted. Thanks

[@wendyandersen8241]

Wow what a great job on teaching about bitting. I learned a whole lot.

[@skylersherker3005]

and would a copper roller be good for an anxious horse?

[@DanielDauphin]

Copper rollers can indeed be helpful for an anxious horse. They are not, however, a cure all. I would first seek to alleviate the source of the anxiety, if possible.

[@outlawfarms6961]

How do you stop a horse from putting his tongue over his bit I've tryed different one 14 yr old ex harness racing pacing stallion

[@DanielDauphin]

I believe that is discussed in this video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hWSWqXt5a9GdoJo

[@outlawfarms6961]

@@DanielDauphin so he is avoiding the bit becuase how he was handle as a racer

[@DanielDauphin]

@@outlawfarms6961 I understand. As I recall, that video gives some mouth rehab tips.

[@outlawfarms6961]

@@DanielDauphin thanks. He's a good boy other wise

[@sarahedler3260]

i like this guy! probly cuz he's not trying to sell something lol

[@wilfdarr]

I don't mind, even appreciate a good horseman (includes women, English being what it is) selling products or affiliate links to products they think will help me out with a particular problem, especially when its on a topic I searched.

[@fortifiedfortresses3764]

Where can you purchase a good sweet iron snaffle with copper inlay for training

[@DanielDauphin]

I don't generally make references publicly to particular companies or websites because that gets into Sponsorship type things. If you will email me through my website, I'll point you in the right direction.

[@fortifiedfortresses3764]

Daniel Dauphin I emailed you TU

[@tronevensen8172]

very good and informative.

[@keithtaylor6069]

So much agree, hard or soft hands. Never Hurd it explained like this

[@rayocaballo6122]

partner you got your shit together

[@RT-zy1wc]

Thank you! great video, great information.

[@juliecramer7768]

Very helpful. Thank you!

[@robtomtomrob8421]

You are a really good teacher!

[@jimmora5056]

What causes a horse to be constantly chewing on the bit?

[@DanielDauphin]

Jim mora many different things, but it always comes back to some kind of discomfort. If you look through my channel, we have a couple of videos that deal specifically with these types of mouth behaviors/vices.

[@Harry-ei7os]

hahah cool scene of humor daniel. great video much appreciated cheers

[@caroladams9161]

Really enjoyed this video! Learned a great deal. However, he is incorrect when he says a loose ring snaffle would be laughed at in an English show. I have ridden hunters and low-level eventing, and many of us ride in loose ring snaffles. That is all I ever rode my OTTB in! But, over-all this is a great video! Thank you

[@freddyaltina2737]

Agreed, I paused a bit when I heard that! 😅 I ride Dressage & a loose ring/O-ring Snaffle is essentially the ultimate goal! It’s such a soft bit, which is definitely desirable in dressage! There are subtle differences in the looks between a western loose ring snaffle and an English loose snaffle, but that’s just mostly aesthetics, and they function exactly the same. And a western style loose ring is absolutely LEGAL in Dressage as long as the mouthpiece is compliant with the laws & standards! 😁

[@Lizzard2060]

And every western person here cried because we have that option for one year only when we start training and then we are expected to use shanks forever and ever. Then I stopped showing and use whatever bit is best for my horses and students to learn because I care more about welfare than ribbons. No western person can go on a trail ride and not get criticized for riding in a snaffle. . . .let alone a french link snaffle like I do. In the western training circles where we would never say "french link" we call them "bone link" snaffles because the middle looks like a bone and most western riders have a dog on their farm. I am unable to show in many areas I wish I could and could actually show in with a very simple snaffle due to the WSCA to Association rules saying they don't qualify. They qualify for me everyday on trails, starting horses, testing a new horses knowledge, and just enjoying a calm ride or running barrels because I have worked on my communication really well.

[@ShashyCain]

I appreciate these videos so much you have no idea! Even thought my riding school have taught us most of these things before we even got to sit on a horse, it is nice to go over them again now when you are older and get a reminder of what to do and not to do. A question I have is the wrinkle part, can this be applied to English riding too, that there should be no wrinkles in the corner of the mouth when the bit is in or was this rule for western only? Thank you so much for these videos, keep up the good work! ^^

[@DanielDauphin]

The "rule" applies to horses regardless of discipline. Individuals can carry somewhat and if yours has been ridden for years with lots of wrinkle, he may not prefer going with no wrinkle. No wrinkle is simply where most horses will be at their most comfortable, relaxed, and responsive. Your mileage may vary. Thanks for your comment!

[@ShashyCain]

Daniel Dauphin Thank you so much for this quick answer! I am going to try it and see if the horse I ride like it that way instead of having 1 wrinkle ^^ Keep up the good information videos, really love them :)

[@Liz-gc6gn]

This was so helpful. Thank you. Jack (my horse) thanks you too.

[@anniejax12]

Excellent video! Thanks

[@deborahluper6235]

Thank you so much for this information! Amazing!

[@FITHERTRAINING]

Would you agree that a "harsher" bit should never be used to make up for lack of training? Had an old cowboy tell me the other day that I need to put a stronger bit in my horses mouth to "make her listen".

[@DanielDauphin]

+FITHERTRAINING I would agree. Horses should graduate through the bits with success, not fail their way through them. That's poor training for sure.

[@FITHERTRAINING]

+Daniel Dauphin Thank you!