DIY Sim Racing Bass Shakers?

[@Cobra206]

"Get" instead "make", so not DIY.

[@DDFRacer]

Reminds me of a musician I used to know. He thought using pre-recorded loops was cheating, so started making his own using samples. He then thought that using samples was cheating, so recorded some real drums instead. After that he thought that programming drums was cheating, so went out and learned to play drums for real. Thing is, he didn't like the drumkit from the store so decided to make his own. After that he thought that using pre-made drum skins was cheating, so found a goat and skinned it. He thought that that was cheating too, so started a goat farm to grow some more from scratch. I haven’t heard much music from him lately, what with the goat farming and all.

[@kizuuna]

@@DDFRacer One of my favorite replies of all time

[@seanpatterson5574]

@@DDFRacer Brilliant reply! That deserves a $10.00 box of Timbits.

[@meawayfromhome]

@@DDFRacer What a great reply, first of all I thought you were “KIDing” with the goat 🐐 Good video also thanks.

[@benjamindunlop9057]

@@DDFRacer spicy

[@uber986]

Top work, tried it and was initially disappointed, but after grabbing the profiles was blown away! Thanks for the effort, you're a legend!

[@DDFRacer]

Oh wow 🤩 thank you very much! You didn't have to do that mate, although that's 20% of the budget for these shakers covered already ha, much appreciated. Glad they're working out for you 👍 just out of curiosity, which sims are you driving and which have you noticed the biggest improvement with?

[@EldarianLegend]

WOAH!! DDF is it still you!? Your videos have always been quality, but you just went stratospheric with this one. Incredibly crisp through all the key areas. You absolutely smashed it today. Informative, funny, visually adaptive to highlight important facts, not too bloated with fluff. Absolutely stellar job mate. Personally I imagine these are a technology that will grow in the coming years and become integrated with sim racing gear as it gains popularity, and no doubt this video will have a hand in that. Thanks, much love xx

[@DDFRacer]

Ha yes, it's still me 👋 I didn't get my channel stolen or hire an editor! Thank you for the incredibly kind words, a lot of effort went into this one. Like I said in the video, originally I thought I'd knock this over in a couple of days but the sheer amount of trial and error that went into getting the SimHub profiles dialled in over the past weeks also gave me plenty of time to think about what I wanted to say, what footage to use and how to record it etc. My project folder ended up with 241 files worth 83GB eventually so definitely one of the biggest I've ever done 😅 seems to be worth it from what I can see so far though!

[@Glebnovikov98]

have never got so much new stuff (even with 6 years into simracing) from a single video, thank you for hard work!

[@DDFRacer]

Thank you for the kind words 😁 glad the video was useful for you!

[@jasonryan3557]

As someone who has bass shakers I cannot believe I just found out about the record feature! Good stuff!

[@DDFRacer]

It's amazing isn't it? I've used it for a few years to have some data handy when testing my HUD/overlay designs without having to set up a new race every time 👍 but it was really useful for these shakers too. Being able to recreate _exactly_ the same conditions but tweak the shaker settings is absolutely invaluable, removes a lot of the variables which often leave you second guessing whether the settings improved something or if it was just the driving that was different.

[@dauntae24]

The only problem with haptics is once you've used them, racing without them feels pretty empty.

[@alecmillea4539]

My rig feels dead without my haptics turned on.

[@MrbishiCordia]

I feel the same about VR

[@DDFRacer]

I've spent the last few weeks playing around in SimHub, recording footage, editing this video together and not actually doing _that_ much solid driving to be honest. Really looking forward to getting back to my regular livestreams and events now where I'll no doubt experience exactly what you're describing 😉

[@alecmillea4539]

@@DDFRacer You’ll find that the haptics quickly fade into the background and just become a part of the experience. It goes from being a conscious que of what’s happening to something your mind automatically reacts to without needing to think about it. Occasionally when I forget to open sim hub I often drive a couple laps and wonder why I’m so bad and everything feels so numb and dead. Then I realize what’s wrong open sim hub and all of a sudden I’m in the car. Engine rumbling. Everything vibrating. Violent shocks through the chassis from curbs, and wheel slip. A 4 corner setup like mine cost me around $150 usd to put together. Four 30w puck style transducers, a 4x50w amp, some speaker wire and a couple red/white to 3.5mm adapters. Now you’ve got the first taste of haptics through just the pedals give a four corner budget set up like mine a try. It’s honestly a bigger difference than going from a G29 to a dd. I can only liken it to the difference between racing on a single screen and being in VR.

[@kurok1tenshi]

@@MrbishiCordia Same, never raced without VR anymore, not a single session even a chill one lol, feels so weird racing on a monitor after using VR.

[@Catflavor]

Great video. Thank you! I used to share a house with a friend and we are both avid sim racers. His rig was at the top of the three storey house, mine was on the ground floor. He bought a buttkicker and it would make the whole house vibrate and sway when he went over serrated kerbs. It was alarming whenever the thing activated, even though I knew it wasn't an earthquake or massive truck about to come through the wall. It was impossible to ignore. He sensed that it was driving me completely insane and sold it. I was so grateful. I really want these for my pedals, but I will be so careful if I decide to do it!

[@DDFRacer]

I've had a few comments from my wife when she goes under the house and I'm sim racing 😅 it's super loud down there, however in the hallway or a few rooms across on the same level it's not that noticeable at all. I guess if you're on the ground floor using these then it shouldn't be too much of an issue 👍 but I would definitely be considerate of your neighbours if you're above someone in the same building.

[@m4dalex478]

I am now on the Simagic P1000 with the haptics and I have a Buttkicker as well... I had given up on finding useful information about tire loads and generally during corner exit.. (have only configured tire lock and some curbs) thank you so much for making this video. I am gonna try your profile, you are awesome

[@DDFRacer]

No worries at all, happy to be able to help and give something back to the community! These last few weeks have been painful going through endless tests and tweaking of settings 😅 but hopefully it's all worth it. Super keen to know what you think and if any of it is actually useful.

[@m4dalex478]

@@DDFRacer I am impressed that you put the time to play with the offered telemetry and create your own calculations. I haven't tested enough to offer you useful feedback, but thank you nonetheless, I have always hoped that a very experienced sim racing youtuber would give something like this to the community. Cheers!

[@freeload101]

THANK YOU SO MUCH ! I just got my LFM License. Look for "banna plugs" next time for the wires like that !

[@emphor88]

I have never seen Simhub formulas like these! Super useful! Amazing work!

[@DDFRacer]

Happy to be able to help 😎 but the credit also goes to Rangey, Ragesaq and Blekenblue for a lot of the groundwork in the code I used 👍

[@Anonnymouse53]

One really, really important thing about haptics is how you install them. They need to be really solid in their mounting, there should be no vibration or rattles. And everything on the sim rig needs to be tight. But, they are a game changer. I rate them more important to me than my SFX-100 motion platform. Also, mounting your rig on vibration isolating feet made for HVAC machinery will not only drastically reduce the noise but also make them more effective.

[@DDFRacer]

Absolutely agree 👍 it makes a big difference! I made sure everything was nice and secure, all bolts tight as tight as they reasonably could be etc. The clips of the shakers in action throughout the course of the video are probably a bit exaggerated to be honest but I had to crank them all the way up so my camera/mic would actually pick something up 😉 will definitely be looking into the isolation you mentioned though!

[@Anonnymouse53]

@@DDFRacer Well worth the few extra quid. I'm on the ground floor so don't have to worry about anyone underneath me. But I'm able to run my 100W haptics at 80% at 2am and not disturb anyone in the room next to me. Less energy going into shaking the room = more shaking the rig!

[@carsonpoland]

Where can i buy that vibration isolating feets (HVAC grade)?

[@Anonnymouse53]

@@carsonpoland Depending on your rig - If you have an Aluminum Profile rig, I would suggest googling for HVAC Anti-Vibration Floor Feet. You'll find a bunch of different solutions that should work and surely available in your locale as it's an industrial item available everywhere. If you have any other, then you'll find large rubber pads that you can slide under pretty much any rig.

[@simonoregan4744]

I have 6 . 4 Buttkicker Gamer 2's and 2 Dayton Puks. Had 4 Dayton BST-1'S before and they didnt last. I swear by Buttkicker, yes they cost more but the frequency range is larger and they are practically indestructable. Two floor plates left and right with a transducer each. My heels rest on these (pedals are inverted). Two on either side of my bucket seat. One on break pedal. The other on the accelerator. Each one isolated from the other and chasis via rubber isolators. Simhub is amazing piece of software. Ive taken rubber car mats cut them down the middle. Stacksd them 4 layers thick and put them under the four corner of my rig. This prevents the vibration from travelling through the floor. Only thing that does blow and need replacing are the amplifiers. Ive had 2 pop in the last 4 years and had to replace them.

[@DDFRacer]

That's quite the set up 😎 it's still quite early for me as these are my first shakers, but I can definitely see the appeal of having something like yours now, with all of the isolation between signals and additional channels. Sounds awesome mate 👍

[@emphor88]

Thanks!

[@DDFRacer]

Thank you very much mate 🧡

[@roswell_A51]

The quality of this video in terms of content creation (not pixel quality lol) is great! Definitely gonna check out some of your other videos

[@DDFRacer]

Thanks for the kind words 😎 much appreciated! I'm using a Sony ZV-1 as my main camera and my phone as a backup for the secondary shots in a few places, they're normally more than enough to get me through my live streams but can fall a little short when it comes to making these style videos. The camera itself is pretty decent though by all accounts so it could well be my capture card that's the issue 🤔 will have a look into that and see what I can do as a top of the range studio quality camera isn't exactly in my budget at the moment. Especially when my 8 year old Oculus CV1 VR headset is probably going to pack it in soon and need replacing 😅

[@MrCrowleyRacing]

I built a wooden rig back during the pandemic so I could finally use my wheel properly. Installed a car radio, built boxes for 4 2-way speakers w a 10" subwoofer under the seat.. with the everything turned up this thing screams and you can feel everything going on.

[@DDFRacer]

Nice! There was something super satisfying about taking on a project like that during covid times, something to focus on and work towards. Obviously mine pales into insignificance compared to yours 😅 don't think I'll be installing a radio or extra shakers any time soon, sounds awesome though!

[@MrCrowleyRacing]

@@DDFRacer yours is equally as cool, I just was compulsive in a few things. I wanted it to be plug and play and completely moveable which means it's heavy as shit but all it takes is a plug and USB cord and it'll fire up since I installed an outlet and USB plug into the rig itself, all wiring is tucked underneath. Other than that my PC isn't the strongest and it would be nice to have another monitor or 2 and have some motion. I can dream lol

[@DiogeneDeSin0pe]

Just yesterday, I was thinking about mounting my subwoofer under my seat. Now, this is a proper thing to do for feedback. Thank you!

[@DDFRacer]

No problem 😎 good luck with the project!

[@hemdri205]

You just gained a subscriber here! Thanks for your dedication and specially for the README file included in the zip. Cheers!!

[@DDFRacer]

Thanks for the subscribe and the kind words, also sorry for the late reply! I figured putting some effort into a readme file might save the comments section becoming flooded with the same questions over and over of "how do I do this?" etc 😅

[@kanethomo2483]

Legend! Im gonna try this out. Only just found your channel loving what ive seen so far!

[@DDFRacer]

Thanks for the kind words mate 🧡 much appreciated!

[@seanpatterson5574]

Thanks

[@DDFRacer]

Ha wow, thanks Sean 🧡 I'm not sure if I can find Timbits over here in Brisbane but I'll try! Had a friend bring some over once when I was still living in the UK, even after several hours on a plane they hit the spot. Now you've just gone and made me hungry again...

[@zhan123455]

Bought kit with these 2 shakers and amp for 40eur. Works great. Tnx for video and profiles.

[@DDFRacer]

Awesome stuff 😎 glad it worked out well for you. Considering how budget friendly the whole thing is, it works pretty well doesn't it?

[@mobozzy]

hi mate, can you provide a link for the kit? thanks

[@bigchild3147]

First of all thank you for providing these profiles! I am using the Simagic P-HPR (Break) and P-HPR Neo (Clutch, Throttle) on my Fanatec Clubsport V3 pedals. I tried your profiles in AMS2 but I could not get them to work. ABS and Shifting is working but all other effects did not react. I tried different combinations for activating the effects/formulars in the “Motors output” tab. This should be the equivalent of the “Sound Output” tab for Bass shakers. But nothing seems to work. I assume it has something to do, that I can not get the formulars to work, as the effects trigger, when I test them in simhub. I have high hopes to be able to use your profiles with the Simagic reactors. They are 1000 times more mature than what I have tried by myself. Does anyone have an idea what generally needs to be tweaked in the “Motors output” or effects to get the profiles to work? Or maybe just using the formulas and setting up the effects from scratch in some way. Maybe this tweaking could also be used for the other provided profiles not only AMS2. Any hint would be highly appreciated. Thank you very much in advance.

[@sz27web]

Never seen this channel, not even a simracer either. Still quality video, hope your channel keeps growing.

[@DDFRacer]

Thanks for the kind words, much appreciated! Would you consider giving sim racing a go if you had the opportunity? 😉

[@sz27web]

@@DDFRacer In a perfect world surely, but not wanna buy a 2nd setup and all or deal with plugging and unplugging a wheel setup. Enough enjoyment in watching vids

[@TheMatze2304]

I did everything the same as you did. Same Shakers, Same Mounting Position, Same AMP. One difference. I play ACC as main Sim and unfortunately the AC Preset you created does not work except for the ABS and gearshift. I need to look into it how to make it work but would also be nice if someone could assist on this one.

[@DDFRacer]

Unfortunately AC and ACC are two completely separate games and probably use different data or at least have different strengths for wheelslip and sway/surge. My profile is for standard Assetto Corsa, not Competizione, so it wouldn't be configured correctly and would explain why certain effects are missing 🤔 I'd need to create a new preset but ACC isn't something I use so wouldn't have any data to work with. It might be worth having a look at my Discord as I believe there is someone else currently working on an ACC profile, or if you could send over some SimHub replay data I could take a look also 👍

[@BlueRoosterUK]

Your presentation of your video is very good my friend, you deserve more views but you keep up this level and it’ll come for sure. Keep up the good work mate 👍

[@DDFRacer]

Thank you very much for the kind words, it's appreciated! Video quality doesn't always translate into views though unfortunately 😉 there can be the most creative and well-edited video but if it's about a topic nobody is interested in or doesn't have a thumbnail/title that makes you want to watch it then it'll never go anywhere. It's always a balance trying to find the compromise 👍

[@Plan3tBob]

The video I didn't know I needed! Thank You!

[@DDFRacer]

No worries 😎 glad you found it useful! I was on the fence about shakers for a long time and it took someone literally sending them to me in the post to give them a try... But so glad I did! Feels strange driving without them now when I forget to turn SimHub on.

[@vanalhalen]

Really good video. I installed 2x25w on pedals and 2x50w in the seat (a real car seat) and it's sooooo immersive for only 140€ all with the 2 soundcards. It takes a lot of patience to dial in but it really makes the difference to know what it feels between track and wheels

[@DDFRacer]

I can see why these shakers become quite the addiction over time, I've been using these on my pedals for over a month now and whenever a comment like yours pops up it makes me quite interested in getting one for the seat too. Where does it end? 😆

[@vanalhalen]

​@@DDFRacer Upgrading our sim rigs never ends 🤣 (little spoil, you will loooove the shift kick sensation 🫣)

[@bb.3844]

Awesome video, i just ordered the parts and subscribed. Thank you. On a side note to get those stripped bolts out of your pedals, get yourself a allen socket in the proper size and hammer it in then use a socket wrench to remove it.

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the late reply, hopefully everything arrived and you're up and running with the new shakers! Also I managed to get the bolts out shortly after making the video with an impact driver and spinning the bolt on the back 👍 brute force did the trick nicely ha!

[@luciusthegod]

this is the DIY video ive been looking for. thanks

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry it took so long 😅

[@MyFatherLoves]

It's not at all cheap BUT have a look into the Smyth Research A16 Realiser. It can get complicated but the short story is, it 100% will accurately sim a 15.1.8 channel Dolby Atmos, DTS:X, or 13.1 Auro-3D surround system inside a pair of headphones. It will also allow for an external subwoofer (or two) to be attached as well for realistic sub and infrasub frequencies (or if you'd prefer, you can hook up your haptic system instead of external subwoofers). It's not the gimmicky 7.1 surround sound headphones that Logitech or whoever push. This is a prosumer/professional device created by one of the founding members of DTS, James Smyth. I would be more than happy to walk you through it completely free of charge. I love your channel and want to see it pushed even further.

[@DDFRacer]

Having studied and gained a degree in Audio Engineering at university, I find this kind of technology absolutely fascinating so thanks for sharing, I hadn't heard of it before. I've had a look at the official website and wow, very impressive stuff and can only imagine how it would sound...but I think it will be remaining in my imagination for a while 😅 that's a very steep price tag indeed, especially converting to AUD and not including shipping or taxes, and completely out of my budget unfortunately. Even if it was, things like a replacement VR headset and CPU upgrade would take priority 👍 but a few years down the track, who knows.

[@peterhansuwurst7852]

Sir, you have unlocked AMS 2 for me with this video. AC and ACC have been my main sims for a few years now and the transition over to AMS 2 has been pure pain. From what ive heard people who drive iRacing and maybe RF2 fare better in AMS 2. Whatever i did setup wise, i would loose the car in the last phase of breaking or would understeer like hell when the break bias was too much forward. With the bass shakers i can finally feel what the tires do under breaking and i dont spin as often. I already had simhub and a cheap amp, so it was an investment of about 30€. By far the best 30€ ive spend on my setup!

[@DDFRacer]

Awesome stuff 🥳 happy to hear that! I found I could drive much more on the limit in AMS2 also once I got these shakers dialled in properly, must just be the way the FFB works and the physics handle that last 10% of grip before it breaks loose, although it's definitely a much more forgiving sim than others. That said, 1.6 is (maybe) just around the corner so I might have to revisit my profiles again soon as it's rumoured to make quite a significant difference to the handling 😅

[@johnelectric933]

I haven't even loaded it up yet, and I will already say thank you (plus it helps with YT). I already have the exact same amplifier and had my bass shakers on my pedals but got frustrated setting them up. You just gave me the kick start I need to try again. Thank you again. I paid a little less per puck and got a 4 pack of Dayton Audio 30W units (haven't used them enough to endorse them, but they are an experienced speaker manufacturer) . The other two are under my seat, but I don't have them hooked up yet. I guess they will give me butt cheek feedback as well! 😁 I am using Logitech G29 pedals with a TrueBrake mod and interface board. (I do highly recommend the True Brake mod. It feels just like my old manual disk brakes). I replaced my G29 wheel with a Cammus C5. There is NO comparison. If you can afford it, the Cammus is far superior. Wow what a difference. I can't imagine that a stronger wheel will make a difference.

[@Scholzey]

I'm also looking at the cammus c5. At the moment I have a spring return t80 wheel and simsonn pedals. I think if I get this bass shaker setup $100, simsonn pro pedals $300 and cammus c5 $500 delivered. That should be as cheap and effective as you could want to get your driving to as good as it can be. So $900 Aussie dollars.

[@DDFRacer]

Glad I could give you the inspiration to get back on it mate 😁 took me a while and I almost gave up a few times but very glad I stuck with it, the end result is really nice. Hopefully my SimHub profiles can be of a little use to you 👍 As for Cammus, I haven't really had a great experience with them to be honest. Last year they offered to send me a wheel to review and hey, why not, might as well. Gave them my shipping details and personal information and...never heard anything back for a few months apart from starting to receive marketing and promo stuff from them which I didn't sign up for. Chased up about the wheel and was asked to be patient, that they're busy, working on it etc. Another few months, chased them up again and they said it had already been shipped and signed for on delivery but I definitely hadn't received anything at this end. Didn't exactly inspire me with confidence so I told them not to worry about it. I'm not doubting they're good wheels and do the trick, but the customer service side of things was definitely a bit sketchy and put me off.

[@johnelectric933]

@@DDFRacer I read that a lot, but so far I haven't had a problems to contact them for. There have been 2 software updates since I got mine. Their app update section is a little confusing, but manageable. I did have to pay a lot for shipping, but the unit is heavy. So far so good.

[@DDFRacer]

@@johnelectric933 happy for you mate 😁 if it's good and it works then that's what I like to hear. Haven't got anything against them and not out to badmouth anyone, just sharing a personal experience 👍

[@voongnz]

They're pretty good, and pair up well with the nobsound amp, not too worried about blowing out the little shaker. Going on 6 months with it now and no problems. Although the wires are flimsy af, they're holding up so far. Prob not as good as the simagic haptics so I'll eventually get those and drive them with the same nobsound amp and simhub.

[@DDFRacer]

Good to know, thanks for the info 👍 I'm running the amp around 50% and the signals going to the shakers from SimHub are rarely at full, definitely never clipping, so hopefully I should get some decent lifespan out of them. That was definitely one of the concerns I voiced towards the end of the video, not really knowing how good these things are in terms of quality but at least 6 months sounds like a promising start.

[@PauliusGG]

I have ClubSport V3 Pedals, can you perhaps link me a 3d model or purchase link with delivery in Europe. I need to mount it and I have a damper kit on my accelerator.

[@davidpfitzner8751]

Hi, i have simagic P2000 pedals with shakeit motors on my throttle and brake. Are shakeit motors different to bass shakers? I have a Dayton audio BST-1 powered with the Nobsound mini amp like yours under my seat. I was hopeing i could use your assetto corsa file to set up my pedals however the effects under the motors output tab for the simmagic P2000's are not the same. I imported your file sucessfully into the profile manager for the pedals . Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

[@DDFRacer]

Unfortunately ShakeIt Bass Shakers and ShakeIt Motors are two different types of device and my SimHub profile isn't compatible between the two since they work with entirely different types of output signal 🥲

[@White_Tusk]

What's the telemetry app shown at 9:50?

[@DDFRacer]

That's the EA Racenet platform 👍

[@SpiroKala]

Just wondering how did you mount the bass shakers onto the aluminum mount [L Shape mount]?

[@DDFRacer]

There's a central mounting post on the bass shaker itself, so if the L bracket doesn't already have pre drilled holes then it's just a case of drilling your own and slapping a few bolts on there 👍

[@Nukedrop]

Great video Dan, I run the same Nobsound card. 2 channels for me, one shaker on the pedal plate, and then a big one strapped to the back of the seat. Using the big one for engine rumble adds loads to immersion, especially in vehicles with big rumbly rear-mounted engines. Does not do much for lap time though! One word of warning on having that dial cranked all the way up, the Nobsound can apparently overheat and cook itself if it is run on full power for too long. Not had it happened to myself, but have seen reports of it happening in forums etc.

[@DDFRacer]

Awesome info, thanks for the heads up about the overheating on the amplifier/soundcard mate! I'm not running mine anywhere near full beans, maybe around 50% or so? And no large shaker in the seat either, just the two smaller ones so should be fine 🤞 but a little electrical burning smell might actually add a little more immersion now that I think about it...

[@zKaltern]

Superb. I have been wanting a buttkicker type device - I don't yet have a full size rig, but these look perfect. Already ordered. Nice one!

[@DDFRacer]

Congrats on your new upgrade 😎 you'll have to let me know what you think of them when they arrive and if you get the same kick out of them that I did.

[@zKaltern]

@@DDFRacer Got the stuff... What PSU are you using? I only have a 12v to hand and I'm getting no sound, presuming 12v isn't enough to power them?

[@DDFRacer]

I'll have to double check and get back to you 👍 away from the rig for a couple of days but the amp came with its own power supply if I remember correctly and the spec on the product page says Power Supply 12V-24V/2.5A or above, hope this helps. 12v should definitely be working 🤔

[@zKaltern]

@@DDFRacer Mine didn't come with a PSU.. I bought a 24V one and that seems to be working. Mounting them to the Fanatec CSL pedals was about the same as yours. The effect is not going to shake your feet off, but it is noticeable. Now I have to train my head to understand what it all means. I just took delivery of an Omega GT Prime Lite, so I'll put everything together and see if things improve :D

[@94nolo]

I take it bass shakers on all 4 corners is useless on iracing because it can't differentiate indivual wheel slip?

[@RobCoghlan-d8s]

I’ve had 4 x DaytonAudio TT-25s since the start of year. I set them up for kerb/road effects but stopped using them a few months ago. KZbin randomly showed me this vid, I downloaded the profiles and loaded the AC one up for ACC. Holy crap! I’m 1.3s a lap quicker around Spa and would have gone another 0.4s quicker on my next lap had I not run out of fuel. And that’s after 20 minutes practice with them. I can trail off the brakes as soon as the ABS kicks in which has dramatically improved my braking and turn-in. Cheers dude, much appreciated!

[@DDFRacer]

Mate that's awesome, especially considering that profile isn't even made for ACC 😅 some serious gains there! I think by default most people would assume shakers are for road rumble, kerbs and so on but when you tune them for wheelslip it actually helps you understand the car a whole lot better. Just promise me a small cut of your new found prize money, right? 😎

[@mjdede2342]

Great video, you provided the link for the shaker and the sound card, but not for the bracket and the cables…. Where I can find these also?

[@rahularora9868]

Can I double sided tape (3m vhb) onto my seat? I don't wanna drill. Any recommendations for a 4ch amp?

[@DDFRacer]

It'd need to be some pretty strong tape as these things are heaver than they look and I imagine the vibrations might shake them loose over time. Imagine your phone taped to the underside of a table but multiply the strength of the vibrations several factors, would that stay in place? You could give it a try but I'm not so sure it would be a good idea as you really need them secured well. As for the 4ch amp, this is something I would have to research and try first too 👍 so can't really provide much useful advice at this stage unfortunately.

[@rahularora9868]

@@DDFRacer thanks for the reply, I may take a chance and see how it goes. That VHB is pretty strong, used for ACM on skyscrapers; but maybe it's too strong and might rip the leather off the seat 😂

[@ThatSkaterGuyy]

Love my Simagic Haptic Pedal Reactor on my brake pedal! It really does feel like a cheat code, like you said. I mostly race iRacing and I thought it was pretty limited when I was tweaking my settings in SimHub, like I thought wheel slip info wasn't available for iRacing. I just have it set up for ABS triggering (but that doesn't help in non-ABS cars)... I'll have to look into your settings to see if I'm missing out on anything else useful. Great vid!

[@DDFRacer]

I'd be keen to know what you think 👍 iRacing is probably one of the weaker sims when it comes to how well it performs with the shakers but there's definitely still a lot of useable information, especially for scrubbing the tyres and feeling the wheels start to lose grip mid-corner. ABS is definitely a lifesaver but my profile should also take into account brake locking too for those non-ABS cars you mentioned.

[@velocitybraker991]

@@DDFRacer Okay, iRacing being on the weaker scale of thing might explain the 'lack' of input I got from your settings Dan; (been on that too much recently tbf), but I still can't explain the lack of feedback from the wheel lock output - nothing. went back and forth with my jenky settings and it was on on mine and off on yours. I'll spend some time on other sims and see what I get. Really wanted to get the 'judder' feeling into my profile and I'm far from being a technofile to work out how to generate those inputs leave lone how to go about that crazy math input you have going on there. Great vid production and content - as always. Cheers mate.

[@oneyawdie6139]

Dude I never knew about this. I'm into sim racing, now I have what I need in my Amazon cart, thanks for the info.

[@DDFRacer]

No worries mate 😎 happy to help out!

[@esagheer]

Have you tried to connect it to your PC using the Bluetooth and direct the output there? I was messing around- before I commit to anything- with a Bluetooth speaker I have with a good bass. I paired it with the PC and selected it as an output device. It worked. Technically, it should work with the amp too. That might saves you a cable and a usb port.

[@DDFRacer]

I thought about it briefly but decided against it for a few reasons, mostly due to the latency introduced by Bluetooth. It's not much but it's definitely enough to add a noticeable delay between the effect happening in-game and then being triggered on the shakers, particularly obvious for effects that switch on suddenly like a locked brake or ABS. I also run a few other devices over Bluetooth such as my keyboard/mouse, microphone and controller (for replay cameras etc) which are prone to the occasional dropout which isn't good when it comes to SimHub unfortunately, any devices disconnecting and reconnecting can cause system stutters and freezes which isn't exactly ideal mid-race. For what it's worth, saving a cable and USB port doesn't really make too much sense in my opinion as the amp is still connected to the power supply and wired in to the shakers anyway, but it's a good suggestion for someone who might be in a pinch 👍

[@feedrate]

Just downloaded and tried your profiles - Excellent! Completely different experience to the standard settings I messed around with. Just great, well done! But now I crave more... Any plans to setup a few bigger ones on the seat as well to get a "full body" feedback?

[@DDFRacer]

Awesome stuff, glad to hear they made a big difference for you! No plans for any more bass shakers at the moment, but my next project is a (long overdue) new VR headset which should be sorted out in the next few weeks...

[@feedrate]

@@DDFRacer Ok - I'll follow along and might learn something then - I got a Pico4Ultra just a few weeks ago so looking forward to it!

[@chrisc6452]

great video and I have been looking for an amplifier like this, but would love to find a 4 channel to run the 4 I bought and have yet to install. Nice that it is USB and doesn't introduce all of the inevitable issues with another sound card in the PC

[@DDFRacer]

Yeah the USB side of things makes it super easy 👍 just behaves like any other output and no need to take the case off to install sound cards or the like. I'm sure there's a 4 channel version out there but worst case scenario two of these would do I suppose 😆

[@troystevenson4038]

You nailed this video! Best DIy pedal haptic set up instruction/review on youtube. You earned a like, comment and subscribe on this one. Thank you!

[@DDFRacer]

Thank you very much for the kind words 🧡 it took a while to put together, much longer than expected, but well worth it in the end.

[@tamaz125]

hey, thank for taking the time to make = this video and provide instructions. noticed you had some sleeves and clips on cables coming from bass shaker...where those included or did purchase separately? if so can you share where to pick them up. in melbourne so can pick up locally,

[@DDFRacer]

Those were already pre-assembled by Rangey when he sent them to me so I can't help much there unfortunately 😉 I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍

[@tamaz125]

@@DDFRacer thanks mate, really appreciate that.

[@suley1990]

Hi! Bought black bass shakers 25W 4ohm, and one of them broke after 2weeks of use. The one on the brake pedal with less effects applied to be exact. The part that broke is one of the 4 metal arms holding speaker together. Anyone experienced this issue? Tried to glue broken piece but the rest felt apart when unscrewing. Already ordered next one this time silver one (hope this will be more rigid). Driving with bass shakers is huge step up in immersion and big help driving non abs cars. I am very pissed now driving without one shaker - thats how good the feeling is. If someone have good quality shaker to recommend please let me know.

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry to hear that happened mate! I know Rangey (the guy who sent me these for the video) had the same issue too but he's got a reputation for running things a bit hard and had to leave mid-race once because he set one of his speakers on fire 🤣 In all seriousness though, this is something I'm worried about too and mentioned it towards the end of the video, not knowing what the quality of the components is like or how long they might last. If I find a better solution I'll be sure to make a follow up video 👍

[@suley1990]

Hi again! Silver speaker broke in the same manner after similar amount of time. Not crying, just want to share my experience, maybe somebody knows why they keep failing. The one on throttle is fine surprisingly - it has more effects (road rumble etc.) The ones that broke had only abs and wheel lock effects assigned. I ordered dayton tt25 hope they will end my problems.

[@DDFRacer]

@@suley1990 thanks for the feedback, not great news for you unfortunately 😬 but thanks for sharing, good to know! Still running the original set here so not sure what's going on, sorry to hear you having troubles with them again!

[@nanoverse]

Should put hotglue on the cable extrusion point and a zip-tie to lessen wiggle of cables.

[@DDFRacer]

Not bad ideas at all 👍 was reluctant to do those kind of things whilst recording the video in case I needed to change the setup for whatever reason, but it's been a solid few weeks now with no adjustments so might as well make everything a little more secure.

[@SW4GK1NG]

Would be great if you also show how you mount the speaker to the bracket itself too, wanted to see how I can adapt this to attaching to my rig

[@DDFRacer]

I agree, that would've been useful to show in the video 😉 unfortunately though the shakers came pre-mounted to the brackets by Rangey when he sent them to me. I've asked if he can drop by when he gets a sec to explain further 👍

[@rangeyrover]

The speakers have the little pillar on them. This has an M6 thread, I removed this and made a pillar out of washers with a small M6 set screw going through. I'll post a pic in DDF discord.

[@v4rios]

Hey, any chance you could test the P-HPR Neo from simagic? The price is comparable to the bass shaker setup and I am wondering which one would be better.

[@DDFRacer]

I'll be quite honest, probably not 😅 I'm mostly on here for live streaming my races with the occasional video thrown in every few months and I'm definitely not a dedicated hardware tester/reviewer by any means. The videos I _do_ make about equipment are for things that I've upgraded to and am actively using but I wouldn't go out of my way to make a video about something unless I plan on making it part of my permanent setup unfortunately 👍

[@DjCamme98]

For attack the shakers on the support yoi had use a glue or something?

[@DDFRacer]

The base of the shaker can unscrew and be bolted directly onto the support 👍

[@DjCamme98]

@@DDFRacer perfect thanks!

[@carlosyanez345]

Great Job Mate, Thank you for this.

[@DDFRacer]

You're welcome mate, hopefully it came in useful!

[@visorcover]

Great vid mate. I'm just about to chuck a Dayton Audio BST-1 on the rig. Quick question, what telemetry app is that you are using @9:45? (I use Assetto Corsa). Many thanks.

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the late reply! That's a custom overlay I made in SimHub which is also included in the download file for the profiles (link in the video description 👍)

[@seanpatterson5574]

Well, the Thermalito test times seem conclusive. That's a significant improvement. Tempted to ask "how loud are they," but the answer seems clear: too loud for me. Shucks. I'd love to give this a go. I imagine one on each corner of my rig, feeding back from the four wheels. Really good video DDF; while I must deduct a couple points for Nickleback, your T-shirt more than makes up for it. Thanks for another great video Dan.

[@DDFRacer]

The biggest thing they were telling me was when I was sliding around too much. It's so easy to over drive the car and scrub the tyres which not only costs time going sideways instead of forwards, but burns them up much quicker too. Also helps keep the temps down and gives you more grip throughout the corner 👍 which is super noticeable with all of the elevation changes and funky cambers at Thermalito. I noticed it in other cars and tracks and also improved there too but maybe not quite to the same extent. Looking forward to doing some longer races and really testing out how much I can save on the tyres since that's always been a bit of an issue for me. A few other people here in the comments have said that with sufficient damping (rubber mounts, gym mats under the frame etc) then the noise isn't really too much of an issue but it's never going to be silent, that's for sure. Also, I wish I could say I was sorry about the Nickelback meme 😂 but I'm really not.

[@luciusthegod]

to reduce vibration leaving the rig, have you looked into those interlocking puzzle like gym mats?

[@DDFRacer]

I haven't, but I certainly will be now 👍 thanks for the tip!

[@mrralphman]

First off, very interesting video. Thanks for that. Couple of questions. #1 - How do the brackets mount to the shaker. The video or Ali Express don't make that clear. #2 - The brackets are just bunnings ones, how did you ensure they fit the pedals? Just go instore and check them? #3 - Did you have to fit longer bolts?

[@DDFRacer]

Thanks for the kind words, glad you enjoyed it! To answer your questions: 1 - The shakers came pre-attached to the brackets when Rangey sent them over so I don't personally have the experience of how they were mounted, but from what he's told me, the disc underneath the shaker unscrews and can be detatched. You can then use a replacement bolt (M5 or M6, he can't remember) with a couple of washers to attach it to the bracket. 2 - The brackets had to be drilled from what I gather, so no issue ensuring they would fit as the measurements were taken directly from the pedals themselves when drilling. 3 - Ah yes, good point! I completely overlooked this in the video. The replacement bolts for the pedals do need to be longer, although the lower bolt can't be too long as it'll interfere with the spring when the pedal is depressed. In this case they're countersunk stainless M5 x 50mm and 35-40mm (not sure on the exact measurement of the shorter bolt as Rangey cut this down to size manually). Hope this helps 👍

[@bohoaDev]

Enjoying the videos. Your rbr co-driver for Janne V3 is awesome! ❤‍🔥

[@DDFRacer]

Ah thank you 😁 glad you're enjoying it! Between these shaker profiles and the codriver mod, it feels like these last couple of months I've been working on projects instead of videos... but I'm absolutely loving it. Feels great to be able to actually give something back to the community.

[@markhallowell4059]

Ooh, tempting ! Although will we get the full Rangey amplifier warmth experience? :)

[@DDFRacer]

I absolutely love that this is the first comment on the video 🤣 never let the Rangey fire meme die! 🔥🧯

[@paulbyrne3488]

I love my base shaker. I would also highly recommend the Redion wind sim stuff. Works with simhub, adds a lot of a sense of speed , helps keep you nice and cool almost plug and play campared to base shaker setup, looks really cool on the rig although a bit noisy at full speed I would now never be without it. You dont know what your missing until you try and is about €150

[@DDFRacer]

I've thought about a fan many many times, especially considering the stinking hot and humid summers over here in Australia 😅 but unfortunately it wouldn't work for me as it would also be blowing on my mic and I don't think that would sound too pretty on my live streams...

[@paulbyrne3488]

@@DDFRacer Good shout!

[@TwiizRacing]

Really looking to do this myself but the amp is now out of stock. Any chance you could recommend another one which will do yhe same job 👍🏻

[@DDFRacer]

Ah bugger, that's a shame! I just had a quick look and this seems like the same thing so _should_ do the trick hopefully: www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003181384420.html

[@daddictionmusic]

Great video. Question should we go for the 40 ohm or the 80 ohm bass shakers ? Also do the bass shakers come with the cables connected as well as cables with the amp ? And lastly how did you attach the shakers to the brackets

[@tamaz125]

Also interested in the answer to this

[@DDFRacer]

These shakers I'm using are 4 Ohm 👍 and the cables are not included with the shakers or the amp so you'll have to get hold of those separately. Rangey sent them to me pre-assembled so I'm not sure if he needed to expose the copper on one end or add connectors on the other unfortunately. Same deal with the brackets too, these were pre-assembled, but from what he's told me the disc on the underside of the shaker unscrews and you can use a bolt with a few washers to attach it instead of the disc. Hope this helps!

[@rangeyrover]

I used JST-PH 2.0 connectors from amazon to join the cables, but it really isn't needed, solder or crimp them together would also be fine. there isn't a lot of cable from the factory

[@tamaz125]

@@rangeyrover thanks for the answers. You are gentlemen and scholars.

[@R3mix97]

Really great video with super useful information. Thank you!

[@matttheazn]

Do you have plans to make settings for the road rumble and vibration effects? Great work BTW!

[@DDFRacer]

Not at this stage unfortunately. I had a play around with those effects and found it was nice for immersion but became distracting when trying to figure out what was road rumble and what was grip loss as the two were kind of blending together.

[@GregoryShtevensh]

I did this mod. There's a pack with 2 channel amp for 60aud. Then I just 3d print the brackets. Awesome mod. But I got a question about these bass shakers on simhub... I've set TC, and wheel spin (rears only) to gas pedal And ABS, wheel lock to brake. But I've got inconsistency with the effects. so on AMS2 it will only use the 4 effects I've set. But in AC it will rumble like a PS4 controller to just about everything, yet give priority to the effects I've set. I really can't figure out why AC is pushing extra effects through that I don't even have enabled. Under calibration, there's a slider to actually enable what AC is currently doing, and it was slid all the way to the option that enables auto effects. But even after resetting calibration and sliding it all the way to the left (only use predefined effects) it still rumbles as I drive down the road. I can't say I dislike it tbh but I'd also like to disable it if I want

[@DDFRacer]

Hey Gregory, this is one of the issues that I noticed when creating my custom SimHub profiles, each sim outputs their values slightly differently and there's no universal scale. The forces generated also vary from car to car too, so an F1 car will be generating much more load and g forces than a touring car, for example. For some reason Assetto Corsa puts out more signal than AMS2 in general, RaceRoom is also guilty of this, so it's really difficult to create one profile that suits _all_ sims and handles the same unfortunately. The constant rumble you're experiencing is because the 'low level' in AC is equivalent to 'mid level' in AMS2, so it triggers much more easily.

[@GregoryShtevensh]

@@DDFRacer thank you mate. Sounds like I'll be playing around with your profiles then after all

[@AmrAlhabarneh]

I do everything you do but when I press test in Simhub the shakers didn’t work!! I check All wires and connection everything connect!! I don’t know what the problem!! Any help please? I have 2 Aura Shakers 50w.

[@DDFRacer]

Just a few things to check: is the power supply connected to the amp? Is the volume on the amp turned up? Are you using ShakeIt Bass Shakers in SimHub (ShakeIt Motors won't work)? Apart from that, if you have followed the video, I'm not too sure unfortunately 🤔

[@AmrAlhabarneh]

@ First really thanks for help, I do check every thing you say! Every thing works good except the shakers!! Seriously I don’t know what the problem!!

[@AmrAlhabarneh]

@@DDFRacer I fix it finally, the problem from choosing wrong device because I use different usb cable, the original cable come with Amp is short I use same cable but longer but doesn’t show up in windows!! Big Thanks for help 🙏

[@shaunswart1418]

My amplifier only has an analogue input, would this be a problem if i connect my PC analogue connection to the amp?

[@DDFRacer]

As long as there's a digital to analogue converter before the amp that can take the output from SimHub and maintain multiple channels then I think it *should* be okay 🤔 but don't quote me on that one as I haven't tried that.

[@shaunswart1418]

@@DDFRacer Tested with Aux, only 2x channels but works well 👍🏻

[@seandubose2342]

Couple of questions. I use a wheel stand, not a full rig. Was considering getting 40w exciters as opposed to actual bass shakers as it will fit my stand better. Will this give me the same sort of feedback if i mount 2 of them under my pedal plate in my stand? Also, i know simhub has an option for gt7, but i also play acc on ps5. Can i set these for both games? I know there's an acc option, but i believe it's for computer. Is there a generic option that simply runs subs through simhub on pc picking up audio cues from my ps5 to work with acc?

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the delayed response, I missed your comment last week! Regarding the placement of these kind of devices, it's really open ended in terms of where you can put them 👍 in my case they're on the pedals but I know plenty of people who have them on their pedal plates or under the seat. There's actually nothing stopping someone from mounting them directly to a racing boot to be honest 😅 but I haven't seen that done yet so maybe it's not too effective... Regarding ACC on PS5, ooof good question and not one I can answer unfortunately as I don't have a PS5 and only use SimHub through PC. If you can transmit data from GT7 over the network to your PC where SimHub is installed then I can't see any reason why you couldn't do it for ACC also...but don't quote me on that! Using a direct audio source for your shakers probably isn't a good idea though to be honest, it's just copying what you'd hear in-game and at that point you might as well just connect up a subwoofer. The beauty of SimHub is that it uses the game's telemetry and generates signals based on what's actually happening with the car, so you can get your bass shakers/exciters kicking in when there's not always low audio frequencies such as tyreslip.

[@theviperman3]

@DDF Racer, would you consider creating a profile for ACC ?

[@DDFRacer]

Bit late to the party here 😅 looks like you already got me on Discord! Keen to see how you get on with the ACC profile though as you're definitely not the first to ask 👍 would need to fire it up and test it myself to double check it's all good but there could be quite the demand for it apparently.

[@taylorlan3754]

Great video, thank you! I'm going to try this now! Where did you buy the brackets?

[@DDFRacer]

Should be available at any decent hardware store 👍 here in Australia it's just a few dollars (if that) spent at Bunnings.

[@Scholzey]

One change that wpuld make sense is to mount the shaker so that its movement is in the direction ypu want the feel to go, so in the direction of pedal travel. No only would this increse the feel/power ratio, it will reduce vibrations through your whole setup. So you could run it quieter and less vibration through your whole setup for the same feel through the pedals.

[@DDFRacer]

It's definitely something I've thought about and will probably play around with in the future at some point 🤔 makes a lot of sense having the axis of the shaker parallel to the pedal instead of at 90 degrees. These were the brackets Rangey sent though and I'm completely new to all of this so one thing at a time for me at the moment 😅

[@rangeyrover]

The manufacturers advice for those transducers is to mount them in that orientation, so that's why the brackets look like that.

[@Scholzey]

@@rangeyrover so I'd assume when people use these under their seats they are recommended to mount them on their side as well?

[@Scholzey]

I'd assume that is an ease of mounting reason.

[@Scholzey]

I think I will buy these and try them out since I am very budget constrained at the moment :) I don't even have ffb yet lol should be a good additional chunk of information I'm missing.

[@user-zh5fe3fm7l]

Loved it! Theres any solution to isolate the noise/vibrations?

[@DDFRacer]

Plenty of other people here in the comments have mentioned that they've been able to reduce the vibrations by putting their rig/frame on top of things like foam or gym mats. That'll definitely reduce the passive vibrations 👍 but unfortunately I don't think there's much of a way to reduce the actual noise itself because that's how these shakers are transmitting the information.

[@user-zh5fe3fm7l]

@@DDFRacer And thanks for the profiles!

[@Will_au]

i have never heard of any of these devices, good video

[@DDFRacer]

Legit thought I had BenDeen leaving a comment for a second there 😆 thanks for the kind words, happy I could teach you something new today.

[@rtds2024]

hey mate, tomorrow i will pickup whole sim rig with CLS DD 8nm, cls lc pedals, bass shakers, aluminium rig with seat from audi sq5, 32 inch monitor, for 900e. i think thats great deal? its 1 year old.. but im interested in those bass shakers, i have never heard about those lol... Soo your v3 pedale have vibrations, do you think bass shakers are better or worse vs that vibrations(rummble)?

[@DDFRacer]

Sounds like a good deal to me if you're getting the whole package and it works 😎 nice one mate! The V3 pedal vibrations are pretty weak to be honest, hardly noticeable, and also either just on/off and not too customisable. These shakers are *much* more powerful, but also variable to can ramp up/get softer depending on what's happening and can also be completely customised to your preferences (which effects you want to feel) in SimHub. Night and day.

[@JonathonBarton]

0:36 THANK YOU for this.

[@DDFRacer]

You're welcome mate 👍 might as well get to the point nice and early so you can get on with the video instead of keeping you hanging around for ten minutes waiting to find out.

[@JonathonBarton]

@@DDFRacer Gotta say, that little detail was the very thing that got an instant subscribe, got my watch time to 100%, AND got me to jump on aliX US and grab the goods! Looking forward to posting a trip report in a couple weeks!

[@denskreand6387]

what does sway * throttle %mixed half surge * throttle % mixed half slip * surge (brakes only) judder * stering all mean and what infomation are they giving?

[@DDFRacer]

Hey Felix, hope this helps 👍 SWAY * THROTTLE % MIXED HALF - Tells you how much wheelslip there is but takes into account how much the car is pushing left/right. Then it'll dial in vibrations based on the amount of throttle you're applying. Useful for telling you if the car is reaching the limit of grip mid corner, especially if you're trying to put the power down and you start getting understeer/oversteer. The Mixed Half section refers to the fact that even if you are completely off the throttle, you'll still get 50% vibration strength if the wheels are slipping completely. The throttle mix becomes quite intuitive after a short while because you can modulate the accelerator pedal based on the amount of vibrations you're getting. SURGE * THROTTLE % MIXED HALF - Tells you how much wheelslip there is but takes into account how much the car is pushing forwards. Then it'll dial in vibrations based on the amount of throttle you're applying. Useful for judging wheelspin out of corners, especially as the throttle factored in is a nice trigger to let off the pedal if you feel it vibrating too much. SLIP * SURGE (BRAKES ONLY) - Tells you how much wheelslip there is but also how much the car is decelerating, and only triggers when you're on the brakes. Super handy for knowing when you're approaching the limit under braking and about to lock up, particularly for non ABS cars. JUDDER * STEERING - Tells you how much wheelslip there is across the tyres from left to right and factors in the amount of steering lock you're applying. It's a good indicator of whether you're actually gripping the track surface or just scrubbing on top of it, very useful for low grip situations like rain or knowing when you're applying too much steering lock. It's also worth noting that these calculations also take into account how much a tyre is loaded up. For example if you're taking a sharp hairpin and the inside tyre lifts off the ground, it will be 'slipping' because the rotation of the tyre doesn't match the speed of the car...but it doesn't make sense trigger the vibrations because that tyre isn't actually loaded up at all.

[@denskreand6387]

@@DDFRacer thank u so much

[@F1CJEUK]

Really interesting video, did you try them in any other way, tempted to try them on the seat to give more impression

[@DDFRacer]

Nah I've just had these shakers running on my pedals so far. Figured I would eliminate as many variables as possible when getting them set up and dialling the SimHub profiles in 👍 no reason why they wouldn't work well on the seat though to be honest, I know a few other people have that configuration and say it's quite good. I might try it out in the future, most likely swapping out the accelerator shaker as I think having the lockups and ABS feedback on the brake pedal is super useful.

[@jkwes1]

Great video Dan.

[@DDFRacer]

Cheers JK, glad you enjoyed it mate! Looking forward to getting back out on a live stream and using these properly soon.

[@Jrynnn23]

really having a hard time setting up the motor output because it only says custom effects but I don't know if it's for brake or throttle.

[@Jrynnn23]

also not working with p1000 haptics not showing separately on custom effects

[@DDFRacer]

Below each line where it says Custom Effect there should be a second line with a further description of what each effect is 👍there is also a PDF file included in the download which has the full instructions on which effects to map to which pedal. However these profiles are designed for ShakeIt Bass Shakers, not ShakeIt Motors unfortunately.

[@Jrynnn23]

​@@DDFRacer yeah, I think that's the reason why it doesn't appear on the custom effects.

[@JasonNosajasoNosaj]

Note: Judder Right calculations are missing. To fix, copy from left. Now, you should see values in the graph when playing. @DDFRacer

[@DDFRacer]

Whoops 😅 thanks for letting me know, I'll get that fixed. Which sim profile is this in? Or is it across all of them?

[@jeroenvdmaarel]

I bought two large ones for under my seat and pedals a while ago. I couldn't make it feel right back then. It felt a bit gimmicky and made a lot of noise, so I just stopped using them after a while. But after seeing you gained over a second, I might have to put in some time to tune it again😄 Or maybe I'll have to buy the smaller ones for the individual pedals too..

[@DDFRacer]

I reckon you'll be good with the larger ones mate 👍 and your placement should be fine too, from my research having one under the seat is pretty common and makes a lot of sense actually, it gives you a better sense of separation between the two channels. I made a profile for Richard Burns Rally too 😉

[@freekaleek12100]

Really high quality video, I’m convinced! I ordered the stuff you recommend and am waiting on delivery 🎉. I have v3 peddles too, could you recommend the brackets you bought too please so I can pre order them? And did you need to order some stereo cabling seperately?

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the late response, I've been on vacation these past few weeks! I'm not sure where you're based in the world but the brackets I used were from my local hardware store, Bunnings, here in Australia so I'd imagine anywhere that sells general tools or supplies should do the trick for you. As for the stereo cabling, that was indeed a separate purchase 👍 the shakers or amp didn't include any.

[@freekaleek12100]

@@DDFRacer Thanks mate, hope you had a good holiday! I’m based in the UK and to help anyone that comes here after me - I also went to a local hardware store and (pretty jankily) ended up with some 90 deg angle brackets that attached to the pedals using the m3 bolts used to keep the pedal faces on, and then I used super glue gel to attach the shaker to the other half of the angle bracket. Probably not the best option but the alternative was to drill new holes in the shaker, which I wasn’t keen on doing / didn’t have the right tools. In retrospect, there are some 3d printed type things available online to help with this if you do a quick google search - particularly so if you swap out the aliexpress transducer with the Dayton audio TS25 puck. If I were to do it again I think that’s the route I would take. Also, this may be a me problem with the type of amp I got (nosound - but with no power cable). You do need the power cable as well as the usb or you’ll be faring your hair out trying to figure out what’s going wrong for a while like I did 😂

[@francescocantile9922]

What is the difference with the sim 3d pedal rumble motors kit? What do you prefer?

[@rangeyrover]

Hi mate, I've had both, and I prefer the little shakers, as you can get a wider variety of sounds out. The motors are good, and I enjoyed them, but they are one tone really and they take a while to spin up.

[@DDFRacer]

I haven't used them personally but Rangey has and explained it perfectly above ☝️ hope this helps

[@Glebnovikov98]

btw what do you think is worth more? bass shakers like these or haptic motors from simagic? as far as I understood, their configuration is pretty much the same through the simhub. Love the vibration graphics as well, can you share them somewhere? even without haptics/shakers, they might be pretty useful on the screen for consistency

[@DDFRacer]

The main difference between motors and shakers is that motors just vibrate at one frequency whereas shakers are an audio device and can change their frequency, therefore providing a bit more of a nuanced feedback. The motors can go softer or louder depending on the input but they'll just vibrate and that's that, feeding multiple inputs into the one motor can get a bit crowded and it could become difficult to tell what's actually happening. With the shakers, you can (for example, like I've done with my profiles) change the frequency depending on how close to the limit of grip you are, getting progressively deeper and more of a rumble as the car gets looser. They can also play multiple frequencies at the same time, allowing you to more easily tell the difference between multiple effects that are being triggered simultaneously. Motors can also have a slight (very small) delay to them whilst the motor itself starts to spin up and gain momentum, compared to the shakers which can react more quickly as they're essentially just an audio speaker/subwoofer style device. Hope this helps explain the difference 👍 As for the graphics, I included that as part of the download file with my SimHub profiles 😎 you'll still need to install the shaker profiles otherwise the data won't get generated on the overlay, but if you don't have any outputs enabled for the shakers then that's completely fine. As long as the data is generated then it'll work, even if it's not actually being sent to any device.

[@Glebnovikov98]

@@DDFRacer I have bought bigger shakers (bst-1 and bst-300ex), now opened your profiles - you are insane, man, so much work in those profiles, I cannot imagine how many tens of hours you have spent understanding this mechanics and setting all this stuff. Unfortunately, they would not work as is for my shakers, but I will definitely assemble something from your outputs.

[@louiienation8497]

I'm using the simagic haptic motors on my p1000's but still am unsure on how to go about bass shakers for the seat

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the late reply, this only just came up as a notification now for some reason! Generally most people would only have one bass shaker on the seat and positioned directly underneath them, usually bolted directly to the seat itself. Not sure about other rigs out there but my Next Level Racing frame actually has a support bar under there which you can use to mount a shaker/buttkicker to quite easily 👍

[@scbsimracingcommunity390]

Great video Dan been interested in this for a while myself. P.S your looking very stylish in that T Shirt

[@DDFRacer]

It's honestly one of my favourite tshirts mate, the material you used is superb quality and such a good fit 😍 it's a crying shame it's only a one off and not available at a merch store somewhere.

[@scbsimracingcommunity390]

@DDFRacer ohh did I not tell you they are available now your dad has purchased a rather fetching white with green version

[@DDFRacer]

@@scbsimracingcommunity390 oh nice! He kept that one quiet 😉

[@Kraton_]

Currently researching for a first sim build - Why are the bass shakers different from haptic feedback from small motors like the simagic haptic motors or even the smaller motors you mentioned that are on your Fanatec pedals? is it just more cost effective and a different approach to get a similar/better end result?

[@DDFRacer]

The default Fanatec motors are essentially the same as the vibration motor in your phone. It's either on/off and only at one particular speed, it also takes a little time to gather speed due to the intertia involved in getting the shaft with the offset weight rotating. These shakers aren't a rotating motor though, they're effectively a little speaker and generate vibrations by playing back sound frequencies, specifically bass frequencies. They have a much quicker response time (important when things happen in milliseconds whilst driving) and can also be tuned to play back different frequencies and volumes. For example, the more grip loss I have, the more I've tuned SimHub to lower the frequency and increase the volume which makes for a very nice progressive feeling instead of just on/off. Can't speak for the Simagic ones though as I've never used them, sorry about that!

[@MattAnonymous]

Thanks for all the hard work and for the vid! I downloaded your profiles and I'm not feeling anything in the brakes until i can already hear the tires squealing. Shouldn't i feel something before i hear the tires?

[@DDFRacer]

Hey Matt, which sim and car are you using? I'll see if I can give it a try and get the same effect, although these profiles are based on the data supplied by SimHub so it might be the case that the tyres are squealing but not actually too bad. Some tyres have quite a progressive limit of grip and it's normal to hear them, so if you're not hearing them squeal then it could mean you're not pushing them hard enough perhaps.

[@MattAnonymous]

@@DDFRacer Thanks for the reply. I'm very new to this and to racing in general, so please forgive any ignorance. I'm using Fanatec CSL pedals with LC brake and driving the BMW M235i Racing. I feel like the tire noise is accurate because I'm definitely sliding at that point, but I'm not getting any early warning from the shakers. I should, right?

[@DDFRacer]

All good, happy to help out where I can! Which sim are you driving this car in? iRacing, Assetto Corsa or RaceRoom? Also are you using the correct profile? Are you running the same shakers as the video or something different? Definitely using ShakeIt Bass Shakers and not ShakeIt Motors in SimHub? Sorry for the questions but just need to make sure you're all set correctly. Let me know and I'll run the exact same combo to see if I get the same feeling as you 👍

[@MattAnonymous]

@@DDFRacer My bad. I'm in Assetto Corsa. I double checked and it is the correct profile and I'm also using ShakeIt Bass Shakers.

[@krzi-o5619]

Looks like you might have used an allen head when you should’ve used a torx head tool , you still might be able to get your bolts loose if you use a torx head tool. Try it , it will either work or it won’t. Couldn’t hurt at this point. 👍👍👍✌️✌️✌️

[@DDFRacer]

Too right, I didn't have the correct tools for the job 😅 but instead of borrowing them from someone, I decided to push on and cause some damage. All sorted now though, I took the pedals into my workplace and one of the technicians removed the bolts in about 5 seconds, just like that 👍 which goes to show the importance of having the right equipment.

[@Chochero19]

can I use this for simagic haptics reactors?

[@navarreitor]

Does the sound amplifier receive power through USB or is a Power Supply necessary (the link you provide leads to a product that is not available right now and I found one apparently the same without the Power Supply included)

[@DDFRacer]

The amp has its own power supply as it doesn't get enough juice from just the USB alone, so if you'll need to find one that has the power supply too 👍 a couple of other people have also mentioned the too, looks like AliExpress updated a few products and messed things up. Will refresh the video description when I can find suitable replacements.

[@PlayJasch]

Yeah, the Vibration issue was a killer for me. Sure, you can run them during the day, but then racing at nighttime will feel terrible. I live in a new apartment house in Germany, we are known for solid buildings in ger, but damn my neighbors heard them a lot.

[@DDFRacer]

I've had some other people mention in the comments that with enough insulating material under the rig (gym mats, car mats, HVAC material etc) then you can almost entirely eliminate the vibrations from transferring through the rig into the floor. That still doesn't eliminate the actual 'noise' that these shakers generate though so it's always going to be tricky in situations like yours unfortunately 😢 (also, I didn't know that Germany had a reputation for solid buildings 👍 thanks for teaching me something new today!)

[@antipinko_b5288]

You must avoid to send vibration to the rig. Use a bass shaker on your seat and mount the seat over four silent block. You can mount your pedals on silent block too. But you’ll get a bit of movement braking hard. Then put 8 rubber feet under the rig and place a rubber carpet on the floor. It works. ❤

[@brentwhite7246]

Awesome video man, super helpful! Also love that you’re sharing your settings, definitely sub’d. Also, has anyone told you you look like the Riddler from The Batman (2020)?

[@DDFRacer]

Ha no, I've never heard that one before mate. Never... 😅

[@girarcat]

Hi! Thanks for sharing your experience! I've never tried any kind of bass shakers, but doesn't it feel a bit like cheating, especially considering the vibration on the accelerator pedal whenever you are about to lose traction? I'm not sure a real car would provide you with this kind of feedback through the pedal... However for the brake pedal it makes quite a lot of sense. The ABS certainly can be felt throught the pedal when kicking in

[@DDFRacer]

I can completely see where you're coming from regarding the cheating thing, but consider this 😉 there are no g-forces in sim racing so you don't have the ability to 'feel' what the car is doing under your seat. You can definitely get something through the steering FFB when it starts to go light, but having the vibration on the accelerator is just another way of replacing what you're missing by not driving a real car. That's not to say it's foolproof though, I've had plenty of moments where a car has snapped on me unexpectedly despite having the shakers 😅 so it's not a guaranteed way of keeping in control of the car at all times by any means.

[@girarcat]

​@@DDFRacer Thanks! You certainly have a point regarding the lack of G-forces. Aside from those little exciters on the pedals, have you tried any kind of bigger shakers under your seat? I'm a casual user, looking to increase realism and immersion (not worried about lap times). Want to keep things as simple as possible, so I'm not sure whether to install a couple of exciters on the pedals or a couple of bigger transducers under the seat. Which might be better to enhance the driving experience and enjoyment?

[@MajeureX]

What I'm curious to know is how might the feeling of this setup compare to a real-life racing car. I'm no expert, but I believe you can feel clutch biting point, ABS activation and possibly brake lock through the pedals of a real car. But what about wheel traction under acceleration and other driving characteristics? Can they be 'felt' through the feet (or by other senses) when racing in a real-life?

[@Leynad778]

Racecars usually have stiff suspensions and no dampening stuff installed for comfy. They vibrate af once the tyres are scrubbing and basically the hole bottom.

[@DDFRacer]

From my research making these profiles, there's basically two ways you can approach this: immersion or information. I saw a lot of other people running effects like road feel, bumps, impacts etc which would probably be great for getting a sense of physically being in a car and feeling the road underneath you... but in terms of actual useful information that helps you drive faster? Not so much. That's why I focused on wheel slip and load 👍 and will be the first to admit it's probably nothing like what it would feel like in reality, but it's incredibly useful to get a sense of how the car is reacting. Without the g forces that real drivers experience all of this is a bit moot anyway I suppose 😅

[@RyKnocks]

Whether or not you can get it to mimic IRL feedback, your rig will come alive and will feel numb without it. It's worth diving into, even if you're a little skeptical about it. Play around with the values and shaker placement to find what works for you. Even adding one under the seat will change your experience for the better.

[@moglismitsis83]

nice video!does the Amplifiers need power cable to work or just connecting to pc with the usb is enough?

[@DDFRacer]

The amplifier will need a power supply too 👍 but most of the ones available _should_ also come with one included. Best to double check and make sure though.

[@PauliusGG]

Do you think there is an advantage to using a sound card or could I directly connect these to an Arduino Uno? :)

[@DDFRacer]

Sorry for the late reply! I'm not too familiar with Arduino but these shakers need a certain amount of power delivered to them 👍 so as long as a Uno can provide that and it's not just a data delivery device then it might work. Like I said though, I have no experience with Arduino 😅 so I actually have no idea for certain.

[@troystevenson4038]

Having trouble with the iRacing profile. Feels like the shakers are going off at any small sign of wheel slippage. I'd rather them go off closer to the limit of traction. Any quick thoughts/tips on what settings I might be able to tinker this with?

[@DDFRacer]

iRacing was probably the trickiest sim to configure as it doesn't share the actual wheelslip data by default, instead SimHub has to interpret it and generate a value which isn't always entirely accurate. Also depends on which car you're driving too, even though I factored in some calculations to take into account the amount of load a car generates, it does vary between the different tyres of car for some reason. An easy way to dial it in to your preferences though would be to either reduce the Input Gain (although this may reduce the overall strength of the effects in general) or perhaps a better way would be reduce the Gamma Factor so that it takes longer to ramp up to maximum. You'll need to make these changes to the Sway, Surge and Slip calculations within the Shakers profile in SimHub, although I'd strongly recommend recording some replay data of your preferred car first so you can adjust it in real time without having to drive a few laps, tweak, drive a few more laps etc.