DARKROOM PHOTOGRAPHY - DENSE FILM NEGATIVES

In this video I show how to read a film negative. This particular medium format negative is over exposed and over developed so is very dense. Yet I can still make a print and save the detail.
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[@rotfai45mm]

In this case I make a dedicated dodge . First I make a projection on a pice off carton . Follow the lines and cut it out . It works very good . Peter .

[@x_and_e]

I think you could also cut out the own from the first print use it as a mask

[@nico.m8346]

Your channel made me get into film again. Thanks for some great content.

[@nickfanzo]

Ralph Gibson used to shoot Tri x at 100-400 ASA! And then develop in rodinal 1:25 for 11 minutes. Now THATS a dense negative.

[@ezekielkokspeaks]

What a lovely shot! Gotta try this in my own bathroom this weekend.

[@vochandler3937]

Thanks man this Really helped me. I just recently got into film at my local High School. Well...As a hobby. But this helps me with understanding film more.

[@antoninowoodystella4607]

Great tutorial sir

[@charlesbowen3944]

Awesome work

[@AlbertKarhuFilms]

"negative is over exposed and over developed so is very dense. Yet I can still make a print and save the detail." You get better details in overexposed and overdeveloped negatives.

[@1989Goodspeed]

Here is a question: I am into scuba diving and photography, I have a few Nikonos and Sea & Sea cameras. C-41 films usually gives me good results but B&W gives me extremely flat contrast sins all colours are muted under water etc. (I do use a flash). In short I am in a low contrast and low light environment. Anny tips on how to expose and develop to build more contrast (getting harder negatives)? One thought would have been to shoot Tri-X 400 at 200ISO and develop as a 800ISO film, but that would be “overexpose and overdevelop” and according to some would result in flatter contest. So again any hints, tips or tricks?

[@michaelscott3000]

Aye. My negs were dense. Newspaper trick confirmed it.

[@IainHC1]

How about a low contrast filter? (Probably turn out muddy as hell) Just an idea to close that massive difference up a bit.

[@johnsciara9418]

My question would be, if you had started to dodge the glove and the owl immediately, wouldn't you get about 10 seconds of exposure of that part within the 50 seconds for the rest of the exposure and not have as great a halo effect? Wish I had that negative to be able to try that myself. Its always easy to comment when you don't have the opportunity to try it for yourself.

[@djrockid]

wow!

[@aarons6532]

Hey mate - great vid as always! Would you be able to go over cleaning negatives and getting them ready for printing or scanning? The hard water in London means that I seem to always get water marks on the negatives when they dry. Probably not helped by lack of drying cabinet etc. Would you also recommend a novel diy way/place to dry them? Thanks mate!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Aaron Stennett Hey Aaron. I normally use a couple of drops of tetnol wash aid after I wash my negs whilst still in the tank. If you have no wash aid try a drop of fairy liquid and let it soak for a couple of minutes in the bathroom. Works a treat. Usually streak free. I also use a squeegy very lightly from top to bottom. This video shows drying my negs kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6eQmqhooLarrbc

[@aarons6532]

Shoot Film Like a Boss I had been using a little bit of wash aid - but i inherited it and it is probably so old that it’s ineffective now. Think I’ll invest in a fresh bottle and a squeegee! Thanks again mate your advice is greatly appreciated!

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

You're welcome. We are all in it together. I always wet my squeegy first and use it lightly. I scratched my negs once! Not sure if I was too hard or the squeegy was to try or had a bit of dirt on it.

[@dannyb5874]

buy a bottle of AdoFlo II wetting agent, it leaves negs nice and clean, and also very straight, no curling. I am surprised how it helped. Adoflo costs like 5 and you can make 200L of solution

[@filmlovephotography]

Hello and thanks for the great content, just a question, if you do split grade, would you have a better balance between the high and low lights, without dodge and burn? Thanks and keep the good work.👍

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Pedro Cardoso Thanks Pedro. Good question. Split grading can eliminate dodging and burning but this negative is too over exposed in the sky. I doubt split grade would have kept detail in the Glove and Owl, that said, it would be interesting to try and see the result. Nice comment.

[@filmlovephotography]

Shoot Film Like a Boss I hope to see your result in another future video. Hug from Portugal.

[@bigjim4231]

Roger, Photoshop didn't come with that durst enlarger :-)

[@terrywbreedlove]

I have a very thin and thick 6x6 negative I want to print but so far total failure. The sky the water very opposite of the model and beach she is standing on.

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

It's tricky sometimes, at least you got the neg to work on when you figure it out.

[@jameslane3846]

Do you reckon you could avoid the halos by using split grading so you can dodge less?

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Yes definitely.

[@jameslane3846]

@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss would be interesting to see you do a video on that and compare

[@TheJanisyt]

I hate halos, cannot master printing, always some halos visible :( any idea already how to overcome this issue?

[@regmarkin7644]

Good start, how about next time showing the split grade printing followed by two bath development. Or hard dev + water for no halo. Good welcoming video style. Reg. M

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Tell me more about this process Reg.

[@regmarkin7644]

Most paper developers are hard developers producing a maximum black within 1min on Rc or 2mins on FB. Both paper types will take extended development. Or two Bath development. Splitting the development time between the first hard dev and then the soft developer to bring up the highlights. Centrabrom soft by Tetnal or selectosoft by Meorsch - out of stock. Dilution of dev also helps down to water, but keeping the hard dev on the paper prior to a water bath. See Le McLean’s book “Creative Black & White Photography” ISBN 0 7153 1280-4 Two Bath development. I use a heated four slot tank. With the first two slots of differing developers. Regards Reg Markin. e:[e-mail]

[@ShootFilmLikeaBoss]

Thanks for this Reg. I did not know you could control a print this way. Great stuff!

[@SBala-wy3xc]

I have some very old negaties, taken during the 50's and 60's. They are gelatine base, dark and 6x4 and even size 8x6 I think. To print them needs very professional service. Can any one print them for me ?