Build/Restoration of the Original Athearn Metal RDC!

[@F40M07]

I freakin love old athearn stuff

[@Heavydieselloc1974]

I really appreciate your videos. I also regularly use different types of chemicals to remove and/or clean paint or rust. I just want to give you a tip. When I use these chemicals I always wear disposable gloves. It is better for your health because chemicals can enter your body through the pores of the skin and cause damage to organs, for example. A friendly tip from a railway friend from the Netherlands.

[@jeffreymoen9318]

Awesome job! 👍🏻

[@jimjohnston7688]

My gosh that turned out really nice. You do such terrific work. Very inspirational

[@ohiovalleyrailfan]

Never knew Athearn made metal Budds. The end result here looks very nice. I too wanted to eventually try and take a later plastic Athearn Rdc, repower it with Tenshodo drives and put a 3D printed interior in it. This video more or less is inspiring me to startup that project again.

[@andrewpalm2103]

Man, that was a super find on eBay. Your ability in restoring old models is very inspiring. Thanks for sharing another success story. Cheers from Wisconsin!

[@Thierry787]

Very very amazing restauration, good work on this model !

[@hotdogpilot6319]

Great strip down and rebuild, I laugh my head off at people moaning at a rivet out of place these days.

[@ecidaho]

Fantasitc restoration! The painting and decalling looks wonderful, as does the interior. Greta video! Thanks for sharing your work!!

[@alco251b9]

No kidding! I just saw one at a train show for around 20$ with no rust and it seemed intact. Was very confused to find a metal Athearn RDC when I opened the box and now I know why.

[@2nd66tube2]

Nice find indeed ,it's a treasure. That heart sinking feeling building a vintage/ rare model with no replacement parts available @30:17 I felt that in my sole

[@michaelquinones-lx6ks]

That model you bought is a real gem.

[@WWIIREBEL]

Definition of Aggravation : -- When the frustration of launching those truck springs into orbit kicks in...... Lmao, I did that a large handful of times over the years. Great job!!. As to using Alcad... I always liked my transit cars to have that "almost mirror-like finish". I used Alcad's black gloss lacquer as a base, then the chrome lacquer to finish. Otherwise if not that system, i use black gloss paint as a base and then rub on chrome powders which also works to a nice point, since it can be buffed to a beautiful shine.

[@JerseyBill-x9r]

I admire your tenacity when doing the esthetics with the outer shell and end caps. All in all, a great restoration. A++

[@brucemacdonald4672]

Have one with the motor in the centre going out to both trucks and elastic bands going down to each truck for drive.

[@jefflynnalex]

Extremely thorough build and review. I always enjoy the way you work through the problems that appear; how you start down a path, realize it's not working and try a different one. That is, of course, what every builder/restorer goes through. Although your videos are heavily edited (by necessity), I appreciate that you leave the pitfalls in the final edit. Makes your videos very relatable.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Thanks! I do try to keep the experience real and honest for those who might be interested in the same models.

[@RichardKroboth]

Nice job again Darth. I couldn’t believe the difference between the unfinished kit and the finished product you made. BTW all the RDCs I have are the plastic version. Might have to get one of the metal ones just for history sake.

[@JB-ud6vm]

You've done a fantastic job with the kit.

[@Jeremiaha284]

Great looking restoriation of a 70 year old Athearn RDC. My takeaways include using Evaporust for rust removal and Alclad Metalizer. Have your considered using Tamiya primer under the metalizer? Also, most plastic kit modelers use Acrylic floor wax for clear coating clear plastic parts as it gives them a luster raw clear plastic doesn't have. BTW the AT&SF paint scheme was a wonderful choice!

[@DarthSantaFe]

Thanks! I used Tamiya primer u see the red and yellow paint, but I used a gloss black paint for the steel body since that was done before I bought the Tamiya primer.

[@tomcook5813]

I just got two of the 50s plastic ones, ordered new belts today and plan to dcc only because of dual direction lighting. Has a motor in the middle, a drive shaft to each end and 4 belts for the four axles.

[@pauls-train-asylum-581]

Great video. I acquired one of these old metal kits (an RDC-3) a few years back and also found it to be finicky. That said, I managed to get better slow speed performance than you did because on mine the motor appears to be slightly more refined... the metal gears aren't angled and the brushes are held to the commutator with an actual spring rather than metal tension from the brush holders. Net result: less friction and more freedom for that cool little five-pole motor to do its thing.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Interesting, thanks for the info! They must have changed the gearing and motor later for improved running quality. A member on the Tyco forums also just sent me a video of his metal RDCs running, and they do sound like they're geared a lot lower. I guess that means the RDC I got is one of the earliest examples!

[@parts323]

Nice restoration. I own a Rapido RDC-1, boy is it detailed.

[@michaeldewitt5198]

Love your videos - your model choices, detail, narration and lack of music make them ideal for me. I'm just interested in the models. I would be very interested in your approach to the problem of getting eccentrics on walschaerts valve gear that depend on the friction of the screw head to drive the eccentric. On Mantua locos, this seems to be a very finicky balance between too tight and binding and too loose which doesn't drive the eccentric.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Thanks! I adjust the screw until the valve gear works just right, then put a droplet of liquid superglue into the threads. It holds it together well, but I can still easily break it free if needed.

[@michaeldewitt5198]

@@DarthSantaFe thank you for the quick reply. This is the approach that I have been taking, except I have to glue the threads to the wheel (the threads are long gone) and the screw head to the eccentric. I had to ask if you had found a better way because if anyone on youtube might have found a better way, it would be you.

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@michaeldewitt5198 If the screw hole is stripped out, sometimes it works to use epoxy in the hole to rebuild the threads and keep the screw in place.

[@michaeldewitt5198]

@@DarthSantaFe I think I will try that next. Really appreciate your thoughts on this.

[@w.rustylane5650]

I found out that the best improvement one can make to an open frame (Pittman) motor is to change the magnet and use neodymium (rare earth) magnets. I've done this to all my Pittman motors and it made a HUGE difference in current draw and performance. Now they will "creep" around the tracks at you guys' DCC speed step 1. Of course I don't do DCC as I hate the tinny sound of HO DCC. Did enjoy the video. Cheers from eastern TN

[@DarthSantaFe]

The magnet upgrade has made a huge difference in some of my motors! I considered it for this one, but since the base and shell are steel, the magnet was going to be too strongly attracted and could’ve caused derailments by twisting the truck. I made the upgrade to a 1953 Mantua metal Sharknose, and the truck wanted to turn up to the steel inner frame, lifting the wheels off the track. In that one though I was able to install a strong spring to hold it down.

[@aspenGF8]

You can go DCC without sound ya know. much cheaper than sound decoders too.

[@davidrichie9570]

Remagnetizing these old motors can help a lot!

[@Gma7788]

Try putting your parts into a small ultrasonic cleaner. They're cheap and work well. You won't believe how much dirt comes off those parts.

[@MartinSBrown-tp9ji]

You rely did a fine job on that model and video. Greetings from Skokie Illinois.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Thanks!

[@williamsantangelo]

Very nice thank you

[@ruagoof2]

Nicely done...I recently obtained one of these models as well that will require considerable cleaning, and restoration and your video has provided a great overview of the assembly. I did notice on my model that the wire running to the rear truck is attached with an eyelet ring terminal located between the truck and body much the same as the washer you placed on the power truck. Maybe that might improve your running as well. Keep up the great videos I really enjoy watching them.... I would love to have a peek at the instruction sheets that you have...maybe you can post a copy or send one to 'HO Seeker' for all to share... Thanks again... Rich...

[@RockyRailroadProductions_B0SS]

I have one of these! Great to know how to clean up the stainless steel, mine is looking a bit tarnished. The Santa Fe color scheme came out brilliantly!

[@randydobson1863]

hello Darth Santa FE & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Darth Santa FE Friends Randy

[@petert9749]

Any of us could probably talk all day about this model. Haven't found time for whole vid. yet, but some ideas on what I've seen so far. 1/ One wonders if the presumably steel frame and body are distorting the magnetic field and affecting the running? 2/ That fibre top bearing is a worry; needs competent rebuilding with a proper self-aligning bearing. I wonder if indeterminate bearing alignment and perhaps iffy placing of the fibre is causing binding friction and explains the motor heating while running, and perhaps some of the appalling slow speed. Heat in the hands of the inexperienced who might get it in the future = danger. I'm thinking of a real person who might start a fire with this. You could do something really special here. 3/ Worth thinking about the characteristics of that double start worm. You might find it is based on a common screw thread; it's possibly metric as one wonders if the manufacturer was Rivarossi???? If it is safe and possible, perhaps a single start thread of the same specs could be installed. For anyone interested in this - again - check for heat buildup and current - and find a model engineering club sporting qualified mech. Engineers to check your work. Again: the worry is the kid who might inherit the model. Note Darth was careful to observe. Age removes motors and mechs from factory settings; just as do our modifications. I always shudder a bit. Get it professionally checked. 4/ You hit a bulls eye re the glazing and thin sides. Beautiful. Probably plating the shell would have made a huge difference. 5/ What a fantastic model. Needs a lot of work. 6/ see kzbin.info/www/bejne/oIK3aqZ-asejgM0 for a paint worth trying out. 7/ Do you know if Ronald Dods' remag works on motors with opposed magnets (yes, two of them) mounted opposite each other on the can of a can motor - classical Minitrix, or Athearn Gold? And just to underline what roaring amateurs we all are: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hnWWnIGAith3bM0 Your video was a lot of work; it is not unappreciated. Many thanks.

[@DarthSantaFe]

@@petert9749 Thanks for your thoughts! Going through each point: 1. I’ve noticed the motor gets attracted to the frame when the truck rotates too far, but as for the magnetic field, it doesn’t seem to be affected. 2. I once had to repair a Marx motor that had completely worn out its fiber bearing. I drilled out the fiber plate a little to insert a metal bearing, and it’s been working great! A metal bearing might improve this motor, but it actually turns pretty freely already. The heat and poor low speed seem to be mostly from a combination of the high speed gearing and low motor torque. 3. The thread sizes for these worms are typically standardized, so it may be possible to replace it with a single thread worm to cut the speed in half and double the torque. The only possible issue is a mismatch of the helical gear cut and the angle of the worm thread. 4. I wish I could have properly replated it, but my brush plating kit wasn’t quite up to the task this time. 7. Yes, it actually does work on motors with 2 magnets! I tried it out in my Athearn GP9 video, which had the original Globe style motor. I’m not sure if it would work on the ceramic magnets in the gold motors though.

[@johnparker7874]

I am so jealous. The one I inherited from my father has Zinc pest. The ends are crumbling apart. I have 8 or 9 plastic RDC's, and all have been remotored with jet motors, and run great.

[@chrissharp5073]

Could I suggest 3D printed parts. That may solve your probkem

[@billkraemer4710]

Athearn metal tank car kits almost always have zinc rot. Not sure why as the other kits of the vintage from Athearn don’t seem to show the same issues. Maybe they farmed out some of the metal casting.

[@JustinD912]

It's their best in my opinion. I used to own one.

[@greg0063]

Ouch I felt that! They make a plastic "wire" wheel that might be better for delicate stuff. Interesting kit and video!

[@DarthSantaFe]

I do have one of those plastic wire wheels, but it doesn’t really do much for me. I’m not sure if there’s a trick to using it or not.

[@greg0063]

@@DarthSantaFe with the grain of the gear I guess , but if it's too caked on it might not do the job.

[@MygrandpasTrain]

I have one of those power trucks for that model. I had no idea what it went to. Now I know. It's missing one brush though, so cant really test it. Do you think you could find a single cut worm gear that would work in that?

[@patrav5542]

Cool model. Why did you not made interior light while you where at it and put it together? Also a condensator for smother ride in low speed.

[@DarthSantaFe]

I might add lighting eventually. For low speed control, my controller has pulse power options and even that’s not enough to overcome the low torque, so I’m not sure how well another system would do. It would be easy to swap it for a Tenshodo truck though!

[@philliprowe2656]

Alclad should be primered with gloss black to get a chrome like finish.

[@DarthSantaFe]

Yes, but in this case I was going for a stainless steel appearance. The undercoat can change the look of the metallizer to resemble certain appearances.

[@philliprowe2656]

Very cool despite the performance issues but it did come from the 1950s!

[@DarthSantaFe]

If you want to see a model from the same era with amazing performance, check out the Hobbytown E7 I did a while back!

[@FreihEitner]

I _had_ a metal Athearn RDC... I'd need to go check in my stored collection to see if I still do. I bought it circa 1990 or 91 and it was 30+ years old already at the time and looked a little bit better than yours looked at the beginning of this video.

[@sherman_of_the_lake]

I have seen a lot of these at shows and local shops butt never picked one up ):

[@blairmielnik8228]

Ironically, you might find a little "weathering" might make it look shinier. If you can employ a technique such as aircraft modelers use, you can use a diluted black wash and flow it unto the recesses of the panels; aircraft modelers use this to pull out the panel details and seams. Look at some photos of the NYC Empire State express or your favorite Santa Fe cars and you might be able to study this detail. Great refurbish- I think you have gone as far as you can for a stock refresh

[@thelittletug9321]

How exactly did you go about getting that remagnetizer

[@DarthSantaFe]

They’re made and sold directly by Ronald Dodd. He had a KZbin page with some demonstrations and contact info.

[@gbwdude]

Is that remagnetizer a kit? How do remagnetized motors compare to neodymium swapped motors?

[@DarthSantaFe]

It’s a device made by Ronald Dodd in the UK. He makes and sells them direct. A neodymium magnet will be stronger, but the remagnetizer will bring the original magnet back to full strength when done right.

[@jessep3079]

have you ever used sergeant engineering couplers before?

[@DarthSantaFe]

I haven't, but I have heard that they're very good and dependable couplers!

[@jessep3079]

@@DarthSantaFe yeah I bought 6 to try and I like them a lot especially the look, but would be expensive to convert all of my models. Would be cool to see a video of you trying them some day if you ever do

[@MosriteCharlie]

Coca Cola and denture cleaner also work well on removing corrosion.

[@danielfantino1714]

The real RDC weren´t built to pull anything. In fact pulling with them could void warranty. A huge improvment would be to replace the 2 die cast radiator fans with modern see through and fan. Adding also the 2 exhaust pipes that are missing would improve a lot. I can´t understand why Athearn choose a so ugly design for connecting die cast ends with metal body. Having done it in a straight line would have cover that uglyness joint. Being shorter is not a bad idea for smaller layout with tighter radius curve. For the era when done, i´m impress with the result. You did a good preservation choice. Just wonder what will be the result put in DCC mode ?

[@DarthSantaFe]

Yes, they were only coupled to more RDCs as multi-unit sets when they were connected at all. Athearn also sold dummy units, so one or two of those could be put behind a powered unit as "trailers".

[@danielfantino1714]

Hummm weird universe, Athearn in HO more powerful than in real life....? Here´s a real story. About 20 years ago i did the run with VIA Rail, Sudbury-White River in Ontario. With an RDC 1 & 4. The only baggage version. It´s a ride in the bush with anything that can fit in, will be on board. Canoës, wood stove, lumber etc... We left Sudbury with 3 engines. The 4th one was B/O. Next day on return trip, we lost one. Coolant antifreeze sensor tripping constantly. Coolant level was fine. So the ride continued with 2 engines out of 4. Later on it was the same joke but with engine oil. Here again, oil level was just fine. Joy of modern electronics... So we made the last 50 to 70 miles with a single engine, hence axle and transmission. There is quite good grades and that poor Cummins "kit" was growling cruelly. The 1 wasn´t full but with good patronage, and the 4 wasn´t empty either. That would have been a good sound recording for DCC chip maker. We did it, late but in a few grades i think we touch 3 to 4 mph. You know when you have the felling that you could disembark, hold railing and stall it.... Yes it can...and did it.

[@arrow1414]

The RDC-4s in real life were 73' 10" compared to the RDC 1, 2 & 3s which were a full 85' long (the 4s were RPO cars that didn't carry passengers). Ironically the Athearn RDCs that were shorter than the prototype 1, 2, & 3 were the perfect length for the RDC-4s. Unfortunately for some reason Athearn never made RDC-4s, even though their other RDCs were the right length, so you would have to kit bash the bodies of an RDC2 and 3 to have one. Maybe a future project of yours (hint, hint)?😊

[@albertjones1386]

Just to let you know that Athearn did make a metal RDC-4. I found one on ebay including the box about 15 years ago. It is a trailer (no motor) and has no rust or tarnish. Metal non working couplers.

[@arrow1414]

@@albertjones1386 You are correct. I just found a few. I guess I never ran across one before.

[@shakeyhandsshedmodelrailwa2494]

RUST RESISTANT SILVER FINISH , that worked then

[@DarthSantaFe]

It works as long as you don’t expose it to air. :)

[@shakeyhandsshedmodelrailwa2494]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣@@DarthSantaFe

[@dave6695]

This is from before the RDC was converted to a plastic body and a rubber band drive.

[@larmo5633]

Always enjoy watching this videos. Do you happen to have any videos of replacing the motor magnets themselves, ?.for better preference? More so with the pitman motors..iv seen you work on some Mantua locomotives, but have always been curious on how to make the older style motors run a little better, without having to complety remoter the locomotive..

[@DarthSantaFe]

I’ve shown it as part of a couple videos before, such as with the Penn Line GG-1.

[@paulflak2823]

I sold on to Trains and Such in Calgary 2 yrs ago.