Buckram Covered Library Binding Part 3 // Adventures in Bookbinding

[@martinnyberg9295]

18:19 Thank you for that demonstration. That makes it easier to decide whether to do a hollow back with faux raised bands or not. If I get that far in my new hobby. 😄

[@АвваронЗурбантург]

The technology of forming the so-called French rib is perfectly shown. We are waiting for the next videos. Thanks.))

[@invernante1985]

Another great 3 part series with so many tips. Thank you and congratulations. Your channel is magnificent Gran Maestro

[@mogonigik]

You are a truly great teacher, I appreciate your efforts and dedication in sharing your knowledge with us. You are and passion are certainly contagious. Thank you.

[@DASBookbinding]

You are always welcome! Hope the binding is going well. All the best, Darryn

[@kmnk]

You got techniks that i haven't seen before. Excellent job.

[@kraftyiam]

I was transfixed -- came in to see split cover boards -- very nice indeed -- thank you! praying you and yours stay safe

[@DASBookbinding]

Thank you! All the best to you too. Darryn

[@marilynbook4211]

Great video thank you. I love doing hollow backs as the book opens so much better.

[@DASBookbinding]

It is very true for modern books. The more I study older/ancient books the more I appreciate "flexible" sewing. All the best, Darryn

[@johnmorrison8577]

I always look forward to your videos! Thank you

[@DASBookbinding]

Thanks John! I really enjoy your blog too! The kraft paper I use for backing is heavier. I'll try and remember the check the weight when I'm in the bindery tomorrow. All the best, Darryn

[@pquinns]

THIS, truly an amazing art form. Great documentation.

[@irishguy13]

That really is a beautiful job. I'm going to be doing these in the future.

[@DASBookbinding]

It's a great binding. Good luck and all the best. Darryn

[@joseramirez-hh2sw]

I watched all three, I feel good 👍

[@nashvillain171]

*Excellent video and series!*

[@DASBookbinding]

Glad you like them! DAS

[@ЛукаОбрадовић]

Can you do one video where you show your collection of books and bindings ? Ps. Your videos are great !!!

[@DASBookbinding]

I'd have to clean and organise!! Also my bindings aren't that interesting. I'll think about a very short video:) All the best, DAS

[@johnbaines9580]

Nice series again Darryn, thanks. I can't help feeling though that Bradel cases with separate spines are so much simpler than faffing about turning in the spine material.

[@DASBookbinding]

Hi John, The split board attachment does make the turn-in on this book harder than most. But off course the split board attachment also makes this book bomb proof. So I guess it's the price you pay. But just to complicate the Bradel I will do a video in the future of a board attached version which also has advantages! All the best, Darryn

[@irishguy13]

Wonderful job on the type of binding I'm inclined to use most often. Thank you for another fine video series.

[@DASBookbinding]

The split board attachment is under rated. Hope all is well. Darryn

[@69Buddha]

Absolutely fantastic series and a beautiful end result!

[@DASBookbinding]

Many thanks! DAS

[@theharebrainedpress9326]

Wonderful videos, as usual, Darryn--thanks for your work. Does the direction of where warp and weft are placed matter on this binding, with Arbelave?

[@DASBookbinding]

Hi Beck. I used to be very careful about always having the warp head to tail. I used to say cloth has a grain just like paper, but now I think about it, it isn't the same and I've stopped saying this. Cloth usually stretches in the direction of the weft and much less so in the warp direction. This matching the characteristic of paper and I try and follow the same rules. For most structures it makes no difference. It might make a small difference for a springback where the cloth goes over the spine and the stretch may be useful. Same for joints that might like some stretch. But then on the down side cloth will usually tear easier in the direction of the warp and going the other way may be better for stronger joints. Fred Pohlmann recommends using scrim the other way for this reason. For high end conservation work I know people who will cut scrim on the bias for maximum strength (what a pain in the neck!). With all this in mind I tend to use cloth warp head to tail out of habit rather than for any good reason. All the best, Darryn

[@theharebrainedpress9326]

@@DASBookbinding , that's very helpful. I believe I read in Eric Burdett's 'The Craft of Bookbinding', that one doesn't need to worry too much about warp and weft direction with buckram, as it's one of the stronger book cloths. But I hadn't taken into account stretch. It seems it's a matter for experiment. Many thanks.

[@jdh_images]

Great job

[@DASBookbinding]

Thanks Jim! DAS

[@squ1sh]

Been a while, but I'm back to booking the binds. Question, what paper did you use here and what printer do you use to print? So far the only reasonable cost paper I've found with short grain (I don't have a good way to cut sheets to different sizes uniformly) is an 11x17 I get from the paper mill. Obviously my printer can't handle that as it's a pretty generic laser printer.

[@DASBookbinding]

In this I used a fairly generic copy paper from a Thai mill called Idea Work Digital Paper. I get it in A3 long grain sheets which I cut down to A4 short grain. I used an Epson WorkForce 75?? inkjet (that does print to A3). I may have got a lemon as I was never completely happy with the print quality of this printer and it finally died recently and is now in the tip. But it had very good reviews. It's not made now and not sure what I'm going to upgrade to. It may have to be another Espon because it's what I can afford and the A3 capacity is really useful. Hollanders has Mohawk US letter short grain. A bit on the $$ side, but really nice paper so worth it. DAS

[@ianfrancis1584]

I am looking at creating an A5 book using the buckram library binding split boards as described in your videos. The book I wish to bind has 1000 pages. I estimate that the text block will be 6cm thick. Do you think binding a book that thick is sensible? I am unsure if the spine and casing can withstand the demands such a thick text block would place on them.

[@DASBookbinding]

Hi Ian, binding thicker books is a lot of fun. 6cm isn't too thick. A really good rounding and backing job will reduce the amount the text sags in the binding. A case binding would work, as would the split board style used in thees library bindings. Give me a call if you want to talk about it. DAS

[@cameronackerman4396]

How do you do the labels on the spine and front cover?

[@DASBookbinding]

I just print them on my home inkjet and cut them out and glue them on (PVA). I try and use nice paper. DAS

[@nohandle62]

What is the most robust style of binding? Which one stands up the best to heavy use? Are styles ever combined to accomplish that?

[@DASBookbinding]

Book structures are distinct things. They are all more or less the same things with differences. So one way of looking at a structure is that it is bits of other structures. The springback usually gets a beating as a working book in an office. So design aspects were done to make it very robust. A springback ledger that was designed to be used in a bank would have been extremely robust. But by using really good paper, good endpaper construction (maybe cloth reinforced zigzag) and robust covering material I could make an ordinary rounded and backed case binding very robust. Does that make sense? DAS

[@nohandle62]

@@DASBookbinding Yes, thank you. 👍🏻

[@cornishworkshoprestoration219]

What type of glue do you use, is it diluted or raw?

[@DASBookbinding]

I use different glues at different stages. I think I specify most of the time. When I use paste it is made from an initial 1:5 mix, my standard methyl cellulose is 4% by weigh, and I use standard PVA/EVA as it comes from the drum. I've got a bookbinding adhesive video planned for the next couple fo months. Ciao, DAS

[@-----REDACTED-----]

I wonder, could the sharp edges not be rounded by compressing them with a bone folder instead of sanding them off? I imagine that - if possible and feasible - it would result in an increase in robustness of the edges.

[@DASBookbinding]

Could do both. I think some bumps require some material to be removed. I certainly smooth stuff with the bone folder too.

[@ioanaberbece8137]

Can you add headbands as well? When would be the time to add them if possible?

[@DASBookbinding]

Yes you could. After rounding and backing. I usually like to have a spine lining when sewing on headbands. You can just line the ends with a thin cotton. Ciao, DAS

[@ioanaberbece8137]

@@DASBookbinding Ah, great! 😊 Thank you for all the info.

[@taloaitoXDlink]

how do you put the title in the spine?

[@thinkingahead6750]

I'll have to watch again properly. How did the text get on the cover and spine?

[@DASBookbinding]

The spine has a hollow tube and the boards are split board attachment. So the cover materials is applied with the boards attached. All the best, DAS

[@thinkingahead6750]

@@DASBookbinding Thank you. I meant the white rectangles with the title on. I am looking for a way to do the lettering without the need of expensive equipment.

[@DASBookbinding]

@@thinkingahead6750 These are the most basic of labels. Paper labels printed on a inkjet printer, cut out and glued on. I like paper labels, but not to everyones taste. DAS

[@aarondecker8586]

Can you speak to the labels you use on your books? Looking to label mine but not sure what to use.

[@DASBookbinding]

A nice quality paper. I use Mohawk Superfine. I just run it through the printer. I also make cloth or leather labels printed with a hot foiler, but this is expensive equipment.

[@nishantpatil5048]

how can we get a book binding method published if we have discovered a new one? Please do explain.

[@DASBookbinding]

Gary Frost writes about how when he first talked about his new binding method called the sewn board binding he soon realised it was a version of the earliest known bindings dating back over 1000 years. In 2000 years of bookbinding there isn't much new left under the sun. But the approach is to research it to make sure it is something new and how it fits in with existing structures. Then write an article with pictures describing the structure and submit this to a bookbinding journal such as Society of Bookbinders (UK) or the journal of the Guild of Book Workers (USA). Can't wait to see it! DAS

[@nishantpatil5048]

@@DASBookbinding thankyou very much sir

[@martinnyberg9295]

8:03 Would you do this type of corners in leather? 🤔

[@DASBookbinding]

I wouldn't, but that doesn't mean you can't try.

[@Ghryst]

just wondering, why dont you add ribbons to your books? you put so much work into the book, a bound bookmark doesnt seem like so much extra effort for such a high jump in value and usability, am i missing something?

[@DASBookbinding]

I'm not a fan of ribbon markers, except in bibles. I don't like the impressions they make in the paper over long periods of time. But they are trivial to add if you'd like to. Just glue to the spine before applying the headbands. I also associate them with club editions; sort of a mark of pseudo quality.

[@Ghryst]

@@DASBookbinding if its personal taste, i get it. i cant stand loose bookmarks. i find ribbons insanely useful, and prevent me from damaging the book in worse ways like dog-ears