David Brown 990 tin work #96

[@TerryRobinson.1490]

Fantastic video once again Barry, definitely the right choice going with the electric arc spot welding technique. The tin work was almost entirely spot welded during manufacture and when a run of weld was required TIG welding was used to localise the heat. The fuel tanks were pressed out in two halves with raised flanges that were melted together using the heat of the TIG welding tip rather than using a filler wire, they were then pressure tested with air whilst submerged in a water tank to test the weld.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Terry, I was concerned that the MMA would blow holes in it, hense the practise session first, would really love to get a gassless MIG unit, Lidl sometimes get them in for around £80 ish. many thanks for the info Barry

[@kensimpson7441]

First class job Barry, it's looking good, we've had some decent weather too so I stripped out the draft link assembly, surprisingly with no problems! Got it all back in and adjusted, I'm going for a lie down now. Keep them coming.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Ken, pleased to see your getting on with some jobs, with tractors it's all weather dependant, especially for people like us. cheers Barry

[@charleshart6992]

Looking good Barry - another great video!

[@manfromthemist1958]

many thanks Charles, fingers crossed the white goes on as good, Many thanks Barry

[@jonperry4657]

Looking first class to me Barry takes time and patience but end result will be worth it. My tractors are still on dynamo's never had a problem with em charging the battery and it keeps em original everyone has different ideas

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Jon, if it ain't broke no need to fix it. I had an advantage in away, I didn't have a wiring harness to alter to fit an alternator gotta keep looking on the bright side. Cheers Jon Barry

[@path.of.discovery]

Looks great to me! A little grinding and filler never hurt anything.

[@manfromthemist1958]

A grinder and paint make me the welder i aint. quote from Mat @Diesel creek. all I need now is to stop painting the house and paint the tractor, but id the weather stays like this that won't happen for a while; cheers Shane

[@path.of.discovery]

@@manfromthemist1958 I'm the same, waaaaaaay too much house work going on to play on the tractor, or do anything else video worthy.

[@colmanlong1032]

A lot of patience required.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Colman, your right, I didn't video the welding aas I knew it would jinx the process and I would end up with holes all over. many thanks Barry

[@andys7943]

Great patience with that welding Barry - I really struggle with thin metal and nearly always blow a hole in it and make it worse. That dash is going to be looking mint as with the rest of the tractor. My 885 has the original Dynamo with a newish solid state regulator under the dash. I know Dynamos produce DC directly and Alternators produce AC and have diode rectifiers to create DC so I get that. I think you are saying you don't need a regulator with the alternator so that's where my knowledge breaks down. If the alternator is putting out varying voltage - say 16V at high revs and to charge the battery I don't know what brings it back to a steady flat 12V for the lights, gauges and accessories. I know from being on the old DBTC forum that a lot of owners replaced a worn out Dynamo with an Alternator but I didn't really look into what that meant for a regulator - can you help me out and explain what I'm missing? Cheers and keep it going

[@rodkay7827]

Hi Andy, the best thing to do is get an alternator with an internal regulator, i.e. the regulator is built into the alternator. This is what all David Browns had ex factory when they upgraded to an alternator. Only two wires to deal with, easy as.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Andy, hopefully I can shed some light on the subject, with a generator (basicly an electrical motor being used in reverse) you get a rotor and stator that put out a voltage/currant dependant on how fast it spins but this has no ability to regulate its output, so there is an independant voltage regulator(small black box with four terminals on it) sits behind the dash on that little tray and you connect to it four wires, earth, brown/yellow, Brown, Brown/green this senses the voltage in the circuit and uses a bank of relays to control the charge through to the battery or not dependant on condition of the battery, i believe it upto 16V, with an alternator you get the automatic voltage regualtor(AVR) and rectifier built into the back of it, These can regulate the voltage of the out put upto 14.2V (ish) if it's higher you normally have a problem with a defective regulator and need to get it sorted, they are better in my opinion as once they start charging ie your warning light goes out they charge at the higher rate until the battery comes up enough to signal a reduction in charge to the AVR hense they tend to recharge a system quicker as the out put is not dependant on revs. they normally only require two wires, one heavy wire straight back to the battery or live side of the soleniod and a field wire through a bulb (coming from your ign swtich)to excite the windings for initial start up, once it's running it provides it's own excitement through the rectifier part which also converts AC to DC I know some people say it left the factory with a generator on so it should have a generator on now, If that's what people want, then put a generator on your tractor, me I like the simple life with an alternator. Knowing that it will charge at lower revs and quicker. I hope this helps try to explain in my opinion the benifits of alternator over generator. many thanks and always Andy Barry

[@andys7943]

Ah brilliant explanation so thanks for taking the time to provide such great detail. - yeah the Dynamos are a big old lump of iron and alternators a lot smaller and so more efficient. I kept my dynamo going with a new set of brushes but I know if it ever wears out in the future it will be time to fit an alternator.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Andy, like Jon says they do work and remember you will need to alter your harness to take an alternator, just something to think about, it may be worth just fixing your old one or getting a replacement could be easier in the long run, What do you use the tractor for,?

[@andys7943]

@@manfromthemist1958 My 885 is used for launching my boat in the sea - so I spend a huge amount of time battling rust as sea water is pretty unforgiving.

[@MarshallSmart]

Tin work takes longer than you think even small areas like you are doing there. Theres always tomorrow 😀M

[@manfromthemist1958]

So true! cheers Marshall Barry

[@charlesmarchildon1458]

Hi Barry, I'm Chuck from Canada. I've got an old 990 I bought with a blown piston/con rod. Been following you since you started documenting the rebuild. I could have used your videos when I did the piston and head gasket... Lol.. hell of a job on this old girl. Got it running again and have been using it and working it hard for the last year. So now it's time to repair all the leaks and the hydraulic pump, your videos are helping me alot to understand how everything works. My question is what year is my tractor? I thought it was a 65' but some of the parts I've ordered weren't right and it took me 9 months for the piston and the head set to get here from the UK there's no parts available here apparently.

[@manfromthemist1958]

Hi Chuck go to my gdrive drive.google.com/file/d/1c8gZLOgJ3J5nfuYxyLoVp9nuvJ4v3e74/view?usp=drive_link have a look through the second page and then go to pages 39 onwards the second page explains how to interpret the serial number 39 onwards will help you find when changes were made to different serial numbered tractors and will then help you narrow the age of your tractor, have a look on my community tab there's a picture of where the numbers should be. There is also a table supplied by a viewer to narrow the dates Hope this helps Barry