DFHS Puch Maxi Ep. 2 - Puch E50 Step by Step Engine Rebuild

[@keitheparker2543]

Missing your videos. ,hope you make more 😮

[@stefanfredin7120]

Now this video was EXACTLY what I needed to get back at my Puch Maxi. Leaking seals..

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Awesome!

[@Scorpion-mv5mc]

The simmering must have a clearance to the bearing for fresh gas lubrication on the ignition side !!!! 24:05

[@dubbelgiraffsiech]

baering failer garantert

[@hbrockenbayer5105]

Another great video Thanks for sharing with us. Love the bell ringing on the cash register when you buy something, but never heard it ring for the new points !! Looking forward to the rest of the build. Thanks for uploading

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Oh yeah! I forgot to add the points in. I’ll make an addendum to this weeks episode. Thanks!

[@jdmaxi187]

David Fixes His Shit your crank bearring on the ignition side will fail prematurely. You should've left a gap between it and the seal for fresh mix to lube the bearring. You can tell by the lube groove that runs in the engine cases

[@DetroitMicroSound]

A three jaw puller also works, when you use the 3" jaws, and turn the jaw from inward facing, to outward facing. The Bosch flywheels with a three window having a small notch at the outer edge of each window, are a perfect fit for my three jaw set. They were really thinking when they designed those flywheels. Multiple ways to pull, and measuring exactly 360mm in circ!

[@leelabadie9395]

WOW David you make it look so easy I had to Dig out my old 1977 Jc penny Pinto with a E50 Engine been sitting 20 years drove it when I lost my license back in the early 90's. Downloaded the 80-81 Puch service manual for free that is awesome, between that and this video i should be able to fix any problems I might have, my clutch was sticking and engine would die when i came to a stop got the blue and orange springs might upgrade those too bad David did not go into that part. Paid a guy to install a 70cc speed kit with 17 to 1 compression and Amal Carb back in the day but I bet I could install it myself on this spare E50 engine I have, parts are easier to get now then back then surprisingly. would go with lower compression next time have to use 110 octane gas and it still pings, but it goes 52 mph even faster with bigger front sprocket but then it won't climb hills. Puch mopeds are so rare now working on them is a lost art, motorcycle shops will not even attempt it. My puch mechanic is dead now so I will have to do it myself. Thank God for you tube videos!!!!!! thanks for going the extra step and helping a fellow moped owner David great job!!

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

52 out of an E50 is stout!! Bet that bike is fun to ride when it is dialed in. Keep wrenching!

[@SwiftCreationStudio]

I'm glad to see I'm not the only one using a mustard bottle to store my ATF

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

I actually picked up these new bottles with a gooseneck dispenser from Amazon a couple of months ago. I love them! I've been putting everything in them, but the ATF hasn't made the jump yet :-)

[@SwiftCreationStudio]

I ended up just taking the cap off the ketchup bottle that came with my mustard one and putting it on the bottle of ATF myself a bit easier than transferring but glad to see people thinking alike

[@sammyknudsen1685]

Thank you so much! Ive Got a few puch maxi mopeds that i want to look through

[@MinnesotaEric]

I have found the (hammer operated) impact driver is replaced by my battery-operated drill driver. The drill driver also impacts, has a variable speed trigger and three speed for driving lag bolts through 12" posts. I put on the 3/8" adapter and​ go after whatever with the tool. It is pretty cool.

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

I use my battery impact for tons of stuff too. But that thing lacks the finesse for those old flat head screws. Just strips them right out. Thanks again for the KZbin inside knowledge!

[@ajodom10]

Hi Dave. I've watched all of your videos. Keep up the great work! Quick question, can you possibly publish that e50 porting video you talked about in this rebuild video? Would be very helpful. Thanks!

[@brapcast]

I have stopped using the impact driver for smaller things. Instead i use a set of 3/8" drive socket bits. They give me the leverage I need while still being able to push down on the bit for grab.

[@terenceavickers]

Thought i'd mention: if you use a seat post to tap the bearings on MAKE SURE IT'S NOT RUSTY INSIDE! I found out the hard way, tap tap f*** s***. Rusty grit all in my shiny new bearing.

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Ouch!

[@MK3Sprenger]

How long where your bearings in the toaster oven

[@Cahan89]

18:50 simmering facing the wrong way?

[@BK-tp3sg]

Did you remove the packing grease from the bearings? Before install?

[@rootstowingsyogahealingnew2101]

what exactly did you use for cleaner on the outside and the inside? do i have to worry about getting degreaser and grime into my intake and exhaust ports?

[@CorralesRacing]

Buen vídeo 👍

[@30secondnews35]

What is that purple cleaner that you use and always talk about? Please share. I am currently rebuilding a 1978 Motobecane 50V and a 1986 Puch E50. Both of them are in desperate need of a clean.

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Hey man. It’s the Zep Purple Power cleaner. I used to get it at Home Depot, but they don’t carry it anymore (at least around here). So now I get it on Amazon. Be careful tho, that stuff will strip paint if you leave it on too long 🤓

[@thegreekguyviva-greece5881]

How you removed the flywheel is how all of us would and do cuz its what we have

[@swissgi]

Amazing vid! Thank you! I juste started restoring my old puch maxiS! is there a way to get the service manual you are using ? Keep it up !

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Sorry for the delay. Here is a google drive that has the Puch Manual on it (and pretty much every other moped manual you can think of) drive.google.com/drive/folders/1A-VWZahNUwwOMdH_KvlOAo8Pie0a2C6L

[@anthonyrules90210]

I like how you call it a Puch and not a Puush or Putch

[@rootstowingsyogahealingnew2101]

how much were your bolts?

[@zweitaktwahnsinn]

FAIL!! Auf der Zündungsseite ist ein Kanal der vom Kurbelgehäuse zum Zündungsseitigen Kurbelwellenlager geht hier musst du zwischen dem simmering und dem Lager ein bisschen Platz machen damit das Lager geschmiert wird Scorpion18401 said that too i've seen

[@nickbroaddus]

I always wonder what david is listening to on his headphones...

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Ha! Before I started filming, I always had music blaring in my workshop, but now I’m worried about KZbin’s copyright stuff, so I just wear the headphones. I also listen to a ton of audiobooks.

[@DetroitMicroSound]

Btw.......MORINI FRANCO S6 Spooooort.............. I so hope you actually do an Italian Stallion............. Even if you don't use one of these engines....... (But PLEASE USE ONE..........!!!???) lol

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

Ha! I’ve been looking. Those things are hard to track down.

[@DetroitMicroSound]

I know! I knew that might be an issue. I think it would be worth searching for a while... But ya could go ahead with the rest I suppose, and save the engine for last...... Or maybe somebody over in Europe is holding the parts you need to hop up the current engine....Or maybe it's easier to find a "crate" Morini from somebody over there...... facebook groups, etc, maybe?

[@DetroitMicroSound]

HAHAHAHA ...there is a ragged quad on eBay right now, with a Morini engine in it. Not sure which model it is, they don't say, but they want $500 for the quad, +$360 in shipping. WAY TOO MUCH. Search "50cc Morini Franco 2 Stroke Quad complete engine and quad frame plus parts" on eBay.

[@DetroitMicroSound]

Uhoh! I just found a Morini Franco S6S on eBay UK, for £250.00. Search "franco morini s6s engine husky boy LEM macbor malaguti grizzly" They say it's been newly re-built.

[@DavidFixesHisShit]

I saw that. And was intrigued....

[@MinnesotaEric]

If you can become an associate seller for the parts that are used in your videos and tell people to buy through your links. Doesn't raise the price for people, but the program can generate your channel revenue before KZbin flips you on after 1,000 subs. Also, always ask people to subscribe (something I​ continually forget to do on my videos).

[@ianrutherford878]

I have one that sounds like the big-end bearing is worn.You didn't split the flywheel and redo the bearing.Sigh...

[@kaptein1247]

20$ for new piston rings???? here in the netherlands they cost 2$.

[@johndeere8724]

Dat dacht ik dus ook

[@KMCDM]

Kankerduur

[@Orléans_serigraphie]

Hello sir .. you have a Facebook account .. can i ask you ?

[@geraldscott4302]

Puch flywheels pullers are all junk. Made of case hardened cheese, and they don't screw far enough into the rotor. You're lucky you didn't bend the rotor the way you did it. I tend to put Kroil on them, let them soak a few days, and they usually come off a lot easier. I noticed it said 2hp on the frame, so it would have a high torque cylinder if it is the original engine. Puch E50 engines are so simple and robust it's no wonder they last so long. Most of them fail due to neglect and abuse. People have ridden around the world on them. WAY better made than a late model Tomos. Everybody replaces the bearings and seals, but usually reuse the crank. Most cranks in engines in that condition are bad. The one weak point of an E50 engine is the pressed together crank. The connecting rod lower end bearings are usually at least badly worn, if not toast, meaning you have to replace the entire crank. Two of mine have new cranks. I highly recommend Treats treatland.tv for moped parts. Wood Rough Key. No such thing as really good snap ring pliers at any price. But part of the problem is in the whole snap ring concept. I would have spent the money and replaced the crank, especially if you plan on it being a little faster than stock. Be a shame to have the engine explode later because of the crank. That brass bushing also tends to wear pretty fast, especially if the engine is overheated. While the transmission does use Type F ATF, and the engine is lubricated with 2T oil, I use regular engine assembly lube on everything when putting it back together. I despise anything Honda. I use Yamahabond. I use spray on gasket tack on most general purpose gaskets (not head gaskets or base gaskets) Ignition points rule. CDI sucks. I'd replace the condenser too. Replace the grommet. You don't want water in the ignition. I have been using business cards to gap points for decades. They always seem to work perfectly. I would sand those magnets in the rotor good, till they are nice and shiny. I like completely unpainted engines. Paint comes off, and despite what it may say, it doesn't disperse heat as well as bare aluminum. Nice job. I hope it doesn't fail because you didn't replace the crank.