BRUT IPA BREWING,RECIPE & METHODS GRAINFATHER

Brut IPA
Batch Size: 10 L / 2.64 US GALLONS
Boil Time: 30 mins
Efficiency: 75%
OG: 1.050
FG: 1.004
ABV: 6.2%
IBU: 24.4
Colour 4.4 EBC
Mash schedule
Mash in @ 62 deg c / 144 deg f for 60 minutes
Mash out @ 75 deg c / 167 deg f for 10 minutes
FERMENTABLES
Pilsner malt
2.07kg / 4.56 lbs
80%
Flaked rice
0.26kg / 0.57 lbs
10%
Flaked corn
0.26kg / 0.57 lbs
10%
HOP ADDITIONS
Mosiac (12.3 AA)
19g / 0.67 oz @ 15 mins (24.4 IBU)
50g / 1.76 oz @ 0 mins
50g / 1.76 oz @ Dry hop for the last 4 days of fermentation.
YEAST
Fermentis Safale US-05
For the first 7 days start at 18 deg c (64.4 deg f)
Then raise to 21 deg c (69.8 deg f) in daily increments of 1 deg c.
The beer is finished when you have 3 days of consistent gravity readings.
14 days for fermentation are expected but may not be the case.
EXTRAS
Add Alpha amalyse enzyme to wort before fermentation start
Always use yeast nutrients
I recommend the use of Irish moss during the boil for clarity.
Use gelatin after fermentation to promote better clarity if desired.
Channel links:-
groups/Brewbeer
www.teespring....
Introduction music:- Drink Beer (Till The Day That I Die) by Dazie Mae

[@timo67yt67]

Hi David, just opened the first bottle (Belgian hi pressure bottles) of this IPA in the rare Irish sun. It is without a shadow of a doubt one of the most delicious IPAs I have ever consumed. And I was born the day Sgt. Peppers was released… I think mosaic might be my new favourite hop, but I think I might try it again with Talus… Thanks Dave. And thanks too for all the priceless knowledge and wisdom that you’re kind enough to supply free of any charge to myself and everyone else.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you, these recipes take a lot of work, so this is much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻

[@JeffDanoff]

the new video format is great, its helpful how you provide more tips, opinions and brewing news in the videos.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks Jeff. Glad you like it :)

[@dimash244]

Thanks for another great video! Brewed this beer on 18th of May, 6 gallon, using biab with recirculation pump. Sg 1.054. Used amyloglucosidase for 40 minutes during mash. On the 21st of may it was at 1.004, amazing how fast it worked. Tastes very dry, no sign of alcohol. Added 90g of mosaic and will be bottling on the weekend :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, sounds ideal to me, enjoy :)

[@Biggin69camaro]

The new mancave is looking great! Wonderful videos as always, and I appreciate the time you put into these as well. Your videos have truly helped me to master my Grainfather and give a great amount of clarity to questions I'm currently having. I'm sure you already have videos that I've yet to find on this matter, but I would like to see in detail your post brew methods such as how you watch your gravity, do you drain your trub and when, methods you take to prevent oxidation, and even more tasting videos would be terrific. I just brewed this Brut as well and can't wait to see how it turned out.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you. Yes I already have videos covering these things :) The tasting side has slowed though as I moved house to a totally new area and need to connect to judges here.

[@fyremanbill]

Thanks again David. I am planning to brew a Brut this weekend but thought I'd check prior to see if you had some insight and of course you did. Got the Wortometer recently as you had demonstrated previously and it is a very nice addition to the GF. Great new format, awesome man cave and setup my friend. I'm only slightly jealous!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear :) Glad you are enjoying the new recipe style writing format. Don't be jealous of the man cave, just make your own :p

[@dimash244]

this style turned out to be a hit with my family, all the non beer drinkers enjoy it quite a bit. Even my wife loves it! Will be making second batch 5 gal batch with extra hops

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear! Yes it has been a great hit for sure. I wish it lasted longer when I have a batch! Need to start hiding it I think :p

[@dimash244]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew hehe that's exactly what i did with last 3 bottles :)

[@dimash244]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew just mashed in second 5 gallon batch, will be using table spoon of Voss Kveik this time, curious how it will turn out

[@StickyDankFingers]

Yes. Really enjoy the new video format. Thank you

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear, thanks for the feedback.

[@fdk7014]

"No working during drinking hours" Good that you are making that perfectly clear!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Haha, I do love some humour around me :)

[@TheAlchemistsBrewery]

What I think about the videos is this: love'em!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Any thanks Patrick :)

[@gbparn]

David excellent video and timely for me as I have a 5 gal batch in the fermentor now. I used safale-05 sampled at 1.001 after 7 days. I kept a temp of 65. I added the AA enzyme in the mash. It seems to have worked really well there too.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks, glad you enjoyed it :) Yes the mash addition can work, it's​ just not as dependable as adding in the FV really but there are pros and cons as I mentioned in the video.

[@cykelsnubbencykelsnubben2350]

Why not use the enzyme both ways? The first during mash will extract more sugars, and the second in the fermenter will aid the yeast to take care of it. Right?

[@gbparn]

Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben Since the science is a beyond my current level of understanding enzymatic processes to a DryPA, I used a kit from NB and followed the instructions. There were 2 enzymes supplied. AA for the mash and AMG for the fermentor. Your suggestion of adding long chain sugar break down enzymes to both mash and fermentor is what the kit instructed and it has worked very well.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes I’ve tried that. It didn’t change anything , just used more enzyme :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yup, lots of different ways to go with this. I am sharing what I prefer. I would urge people to experiment as I have, they could prefer something else of course :)

[@rimmersbryggeri]

HI I was talking to you about the maltase rest in the comments of another video I now found the source dor what I was talking about. It's kind of a convoluted thing to do but I think would be suitable for this style if you wanted to brew it without the corn/rice and the amylase. "Maltase converts maltose into glucose. It is therefore an important enzyme for the yeast. But it is also present in malt. But since its temperature optimum is between 95ºF (35ºC) and 104ºF (40ºC) [Narziss, 2005] and it is being deactivated above 115ºF (45ºC), this enzyme does not play any significant role in most mashing schedules since higher temperature rests are necessary to genate glucose for this enzyme. It is however used in a masching schedule developed by Markus Hermann from the Weihenstephan brewing school in Germany. This mash converts half the mash to get a large amount of glucose. After that conversion is complete, it is mixed with the remaining mash to achieve a rest temperature of 95ºF (35ºF) where the maltase converts the now existing maltose to glucose. After that the whole mash is again run through a regular mashing schedule to convert the remaining starch to matose and dextrins. The result is a wort with a very high glucose content (about 40% of the fermentable sugars). Yeast fermenting such a wort will generate more esters, a property that can be used to produce German wheat beers with a high ester content. " " braukaiser.com/wiki/index.php/The_Theory_of_Mashing "

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Very interesting, many thanks for sharing this.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I myself don't like any beers that I have tried that have rice or corn in them which is why I have searched for methods like this to steer clear of them. I think they give the brew a wiff of used kitty litter. I had never heard of brut IPA before I saw your video on it and I instantly thought that this style seemed like the perfect candidate for this mashing method. Too bad malt extract always makes the beer to dark otherwise using it for the initial mash would be a quicker way to try the method out.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, I know what you mean. This style and recipe would be a good test base I feel.

[@Biggin69camaro]

New place looks great. The beer style looks interesting. I'll definitely have to give it a try. Great video as always.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks. Go for it :)

[@BEERNBBQBYLARRY]

I've been considering giving this style a go later this fall on my Grainfather. Thks for the video. I may have to borrow from your recipe and tips.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hey Larry, glad you liked the video. Yes,​ you can get some great results on this style from home, go for it :)

[@LouB3rt]

9:52 found the importance of whirl pooling (I just mentioned in your last video how I wanted to see your technique) Thanks as always for the information.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear :)

[@mikehalls]

Great video as always David, love the new format! I am planning on brewing a Brut this week, so it was perfect timing!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks for the feedback, much appreciated :)

[@AndrewSmith-mf8ep]

Great video as always David. I appreciate the time and effort you put into making these instructional videos. I also like the new format where you're not repeating the same instructions with every brew. Congrats on the new (by now, not so new) man cave - very nice. So you brew inside your house? My partner would kill me! I brew in my garage 2 floors below my apartment and she still complains about the smell... By the way, where did you get your mash paddle? I love it and would like to get my hands on one, but being in Australia, that might be a challenge.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Andrew, much appreciated. Yes I think things are moving forward nicely :) Yes, having a man cave is nice. As for brewing in the house I dont give my wife any options against that :) She knows I am soft on most things but brewing must not be argued about :p The mash paddle was made in Norway by a local crafts group. It is quite ok but I have seen better. They have some crazy awesome stuff in the US.

[@hawktail83]

Thank you for your great videos! I just started watching and I liken this to a video textbook (in a good way!). I like how this has more brewing video than still images.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thank you Tim :) Yes, a huge part of my videos is certainly information. I like to blend video with pictures where I can but its not always possible to create suitable video for what I am speaking about.

[@yannicksimard3412]

Thank you David! Always nice to see your new videos. I always learn something new!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

That is great to hear :) Many thanks for your feedback, much appreciated :)

[@deezfs7207]

Love the new format, great job!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Awesome, many thanks for the feedback, much appreciated :)

[@MaxwellSpector]

Love the new format!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Maxwell, great to hear :)

[@MaxwellSpector]

Yeah I really liked the breakdown of the grain bill. And the focus on what went differently.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great, yes this will be the way of all my brew videos in the future :)

[@goodmorningcaptain5475]

How about a video on the career you have had in the beer industry? It would great to hear all the breweries and beers you have been involved in.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks for the suggestion.I will certainly think about this one. Watch this space :)

[@Livelax93]

Why are you adding alpha amylase? From your video about mashing I thought this enzyme gives body to the beer? And I thought this enzyme worked better at higher temperatures? Sorry for asking, but I'm trying to understand the mashing process better.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

By adding this enzyme during fermentation our yeast will be able to eat much more sugar making this beer much dryer.

[@DFDSArt]

Hey David, what do you think about using Nelson Sauvin as Aroma and Flavouring Hop only? Magnum for bittering. Want to go into the Champagne direction…

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Worth trying it to see 🍻🍻🍻

[@zzing]

How is that enzyme any different what is in the mash? I have used amyloglucosidase with success.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

There are various options here. The difference is that you have it present during fermentation, not just within the mash :)

[@davidbonnier8429]

Many thanks David for the quality of your videos! Always a pleasure! Would you share that recipe on Brewfather Facebook recipe group? (I noticed you were supporting it! ^^) I can’t wait to brew that one! Cheers from 🇫🇷 🍺🍺🍺

[@davidbonnier8429]

Forget about it David! Found it on Grainfather community website! 👍👍👍

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great. Sorry for the delay. I've been flying and on holiday :)

[@davidbonnier8429]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Have some nice holidays! ;-)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Many thanks David :)

[@fdk7014]

I've never heard of this style but it does seem very interesting. Too bad I don't have the termperature control to do such a specific fermentation protocol. Also I think I should wait until I get a proper kegging setup.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks. Might be best to try a commercial version first. Hope you get your fermentation control worked out soon, its important stuff. Things like kegs are great to have as a time saver.

[@kdillon5710]

Any problem doubling this recipe? And would all ingredients just be doubled or would I need to play with the hop quantities? Thanks! Love the new format! 🍺

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Kevin, Many thanks for the feedback, much appreciated. Sadly it's not just a case of doubling it. I have a guide on how to resize recipes here:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/e5qqhoSdjJero6s

[@kdillon5710]

Great, thanks Dave! I'll have to go back and check that video out.

[@David_Lee_33]

Thanks nice video....I have to ask this....normally with a high ratio of pilsner malt you should boil your uncovered wort for at least 90 minutes to release the DMS. Just sharing what I know about using pillsnar.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Dave and its a very valid question. What I have noticed (along with others) is that Pilsner malt has become far more modified in the malting process these days and short boils do not result in DMS. I would suggest you test this in a basic small batch with typical pilsner malt that you can regularly obtain first to settle your mind if needed.

[@toeffe92]

You need gamma-amylase also called glycoamylase, like Sebatian Lar commented. My brut was glycoamylase in the mash, mash for 2+ hours to be sure. It hit 0.999 FG.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Bobby.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

There are options here in what you can use. Brewers are split on this. Ive tried to test it all and my method is based on what I feel works best. I would urge everyone to do their own testing to see what they think. Its all enjoyable :)

[@bswims]

Hi David. Is your hop stand at 100 degrees or do you cool to 80 first? If no cool have you adjusted your IBUs? Cheers

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Its rather variable really as I whirlpool before the stand. 85-90 is most likely.

[@JeffDanoff]

+DavidHeath can you clear the confusion on what is the difference between alpha amalyze and Amyloglucosidase? And I know you covered it in the video, but also explain when in the process to use both enzymes?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Jeff, both work for this style. In real terms different people prefer each of them and adding it at different times. This is something to experiment with to taste the difference.Personally I prefer using Alpha amylase and using it in fermentation. You get a full result this way. This actual brew went down to 0,095 SG for example.

[@kerryhales8736]

The chemicals are similar in that they consume (hydrolyse) polysaccharides into disaccharides and monosaccharides, usually glucose and maltose, as well as other components. As they break down the starches, the yeast can now consume the smaller chains of carbohydrates. As this occurs, the beer becomes much drier, up to about 20% less. For example, a FG of 1.020 can now reach 1.001 or even lower. Alcohol is lighter in gravity and contributes a dry finish. Maybe you knew all this, but I thought I'd throw it in.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

All good points for sure :)

[@marklpaulick]

@David Heath Homebrew - Any experience using a Kveik in a brut IPA instead of the US-05? I don't see a reason why not, but wondering if it will play nice with the alpha amylase. I'm thinking about using this recipe with plenty of enzyme and a typical underpitch of hornindal.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I kept my testing with US-05 but I would be interested in hearing how it works if you try it!

[@gunasuppiah759]

Hi David. Thank you for the excellent and informative video. I have 2 questions: 1. My LHBS doesn't have flaked rice. Can I cereal mash some normal rice as a substitution? 2. Do I need to crush the flaked adjuncts or just add them to the mash as is? Thank you in advance and happy brewing! Guna

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hey Guna, Great thank you :) here are some answers:- 1) You could use minute rice or flaked corn 2) No need to mill these adjuncts Hope this helps :)

[@gunasuppiah759]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thank you for your quick reply. I got some extra flaked corn so will use that. Cheers!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great :)

[@philcurtis8935]

Another great vid David. Many thanks. I’m going to have a go at this but would a Kveik work ok? If so, what type would you suggest and would any additions change I.e. Enzymes. Cheers🍺🍺🍺

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Phil. It sure does. No need to change the enzymes over :)

[@roman9509]

What are your thoughts on the suitable water profile?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This will work well:- water profile to 80-85 ppm calcium, 95-100 ppm chloride, and 90-95 ppm sulfate.

[@maltmode]

I may have to try this.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Go for it :)

[@sebastianlar2701]

Hi David thanks for the video. As home distiller I need to ask: is it alpha amylase they u add or maybe gluco amylase that converts dextrin into fermentable sugar. Like alcotec vodka yeast with GA. Alpha amylase we have in malt don’t we ? Correct me if I’m wrong.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Glad you enjoyed it. I know little about distilling, Ive done it once only and have never studied it.You can activate alpha and beta amylase in malt simply by temperature. Dextrins are unfermentable sugars. There are malts that focus on this effect. The point being to lock in body and mouthfeel plus adding the final gravity.The trick to this style is to avoid dextrins or anything else that will not allow the beer to go super dry. Thats why the grainbill is what it is.by adding Alpha amylase into the fermenter we maximise the dryness.

[@sebastianlar2701]

David Heath Thanks, i left u pm on messenger last sat as i had emergency with my gf. Just wonder if u seen the pics. I ended up running wort through a sieve but not sure if this would any negative effect on final beer. Thanks in advance if u could take a look.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Ok sorry. I have just replied to it. I get so many messages on FB it is hard to catch up at times.

[@sebastianlar2701]

David Heath thanks again !

[@bsbhomebrew]

Nice video David! Good looking mancave 🍺

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear, thank you :)

[@shanejorgensen5507]

Hi David. Thanks for another insightful video. How do you think adding honey to this beer would fair. Nothing over the top just a slight flavour. Cheers Shane

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Shane. Honey with a beer like this really will not shine :) You can pop it into the background though by adding it just before fermentation is closing in on those final points. Keep in mind that it will add extra gravity and some of that may not get eaten by your yeast. Honey is quite a variable.

[@BroswithBeerandPants]

I thought the enzyme wouldn’t work below 145F/62C

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

It sure does.

[@MetalGuru785]

Hi David. Be careful with Starsan around your bath plug, it’ll eat that crome off in no time. I learnt the hard way

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks for the tip :) I keep the starsan though until it degrades. I will remember to just chuck it down the toilet.

[@frigorifix]

Hi David, I wonder : how can we now that starsan has degraded? Is there a maximum period of time where one can store it once it's been mixed with water? I'm doing like like you, saving the one I put in the fermenter on brewday into a closed vessel for next brewday... Always wondered how long I can keep doing that! Same with the keg, I always have one filled with Star San to pressure transfer in other kegs to sanitize them...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Star san remains effective as long as its PH remains under 3. In my experiences, this can vary in terms of time. I've heard that some have kept it for almost a year. Personally, I find that 3-6 months is more regular. What I do is give it a PH test before using it on a given day. I am careful to only use Star-san on something that is already clean. I have a 5L and 10L container of Starsan as well as a 500ml jar. I like just adding certain items straight into these containers. Smaller items are great for the jar, like my Tilt for example, items like syphons work well in the 10L container and so on. Hope this helps :)

[@frigorifix]

Great tip (checking the pH). I will include this in my routine from now on. Cheers (and congrats on the man cave!)

[@MrMattSax]

I didn’t see or read how much of the enzyme to use, could you clarify?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

I did look into this for the video and it differs depending on the manufacturer. Ive been using sachets that serve 10-20L.

[@johandutoit2766]

Hi David! Question - I came across some champagne yeast and was wondering if you could use that instead of the recommended extra bacteria to brew this recipe? Do you reckon it will work?

[@johandutoit2766]

Sorry David, I meant enzymes, not bacteria. Do you think it will work if I replace the recommended yeast and enzymes with champagne yeast?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, this is something that breweries and home brewers have used and many do enjoy the results.

[@trevormasters]

Thank you David! I have brewed this beer three times now, and my FG only got down to between 1.012 and 1.008, which is only marginally lower than what I would get without the enzyme. The beers were wonderful, but I would really like to get the FG down as per the style, for a dryer taste/feel. Any ideas what could be causing this? My last brew was with Whitelabs Ultra-Ferm in the mash, but I have tried in the fermenter too with similar results. I use yeast nutrients, and aerate with oxygen. Do you need to leave Bruts longer to ferment? Not sure where I am going wrong.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks Trevor. The amylase enzymes do vary from product to product. Ive not used the WL product personally. Did you use it in the fermenter? This is key.

[@trevormasters]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew No doubt, I will try again. I used WL in the mash and wondering if the mash-out was an issue. I will try again in the fermenter.

[@rimmersbryggeri]

I bought a "brut ipa" today, are they supposed to be cloudy? I didn't think they were. I am suffering from anosmia at the moment though and that was the reason I got a few beers to gauge my recovery. I hope you never get anosmia.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No, they are very clean when to style :)

[@shaneblackbourn4778]

Hi David, I wonder how long you held it in the conical? How long do you bottle ferment and I’m interested to know, without kegs and champagne bottles, would flip top bottles hold the pressure? Finally? If I am bottling, what would you suggest for carbonation? I’m so sorry for sounding silly, I’m a beginner, but totally addicted to your channel!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

.

[@SeBastad666]

yummy :) do you have a Bock beer recipe laying around? I'd like to do some more bottom fermenters. I'ts the season for it ^^

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes I think its time to do something like that :)

[@barbarian_1016]

Great video and I think I will be trying this beer next. I have a random question, if you can help. I have been experimenting with peated malts. The forms that I could find said the peated malt should not be more than 5% of total grain. The beer was on bottling day horrible! But I bottled 10 bottles. Now at 3weke the taste is changing. The smoke is less. Have you ever used peated malt and what advice do you have on using peated malt.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Barend, Great to hear that you enjoyed this one. Peated malt is certainly one to use in small amounts. 1-3% is a common amount to use. The problem being it can over take a beers flavour. You will find that during conditioning it will adjust. I would wait another 2-3 weeks and see where the flavour is then. Its really too early for such a beer to be judged in 3 weeks.

[@barbarian_1016]

Thank you very much.

[@bulletnitram]

Hi David, I tried out this recipe, and failed to follow the recipe, (i tossed in the amalyse enzym in the boil) my OG was fine (1.053) but my FG is 1.026. do you think tossing in another bag of amalyse enzym and 1 bag of yeast could get it started again and lower the FG? or is damage done? Hope you can help out :) the aroma is wonderfull so i wont drain it whatever happens.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Martin, you could give it a try, I would :) Fingers crossed:)

[@ignacioa5225]

How long do you stop maturing and at what temerature? thanks and congrats for the video!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

.

[@martinkristiansen9541]

I have brewed the recipe scaled to 20L and used the whole sacket (4g) of Alpha Amylase added to fermentor together with the US-05. Now more than a week into fermentation, started at 18C then slowly raised to 21C towards end of fermentation, i have a steady FG at 1,007 for three days in a row - I had hoped it to be a bit lower :( Any ideas what could have gone wrong? I have another sacket of enzyme, would it make sense to add additional to the fermenter?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Martin, The sachets I have been using are about double that weight. You could try adding another. Usually the highest FG is 1,001 but mostly ive had results like 0,995. Hope it works out :)

[@martinkristiansen9541]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Added the second sachet and ended at 1.004. The beer tastes great but is just not as Brut as i had hoped for. Will give it another try and hope it goes lower this time.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Mine usually go down to 0.990-5.

[@alfonsoramirez6911]

I will be brewing this beer soon but i heard you add the amylase during the mash and you added it in the start of fermentation, are both methods the same? Cheers 🥂!!!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

No they are not. I went through the pros and cons of each during the video, perhaps rewatch and you will get all the information needed to make the right choice. Both are good options.

[@skroz1]

What would be the effect of adding amylase enzyme during both mash _and_ fermentation? Or is this a bit like wearing suspenders and a belt? Redundant and in the end just a hot mess...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Ive heard of people doing both but ive found that to use it in just fermentation has been enough. Dry is dry :)

[@jazzepost6225]

Heeey i followed the recipe exactly. But the beer did not go lower than 1.008.... anybody any idea what went wrong?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Did you use an enzyme?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Did you use an enzyme?

[@AlexS78]

Hi David, thanks for the video. I have two questions however. First the short boil with a large portion of Pilsner malt, are you getting any issues with DMS? I know there’s been experiments around this that neglect this but I still wonder if you pickup any DMS. The second thing I wonder is your whirlpool method, I also own the paddle myself but stopped using it for the whirlpool as I’m worried about oxygenating the hot wort.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Alex. I am not worried about DMS to be honest. Ive used pilsner malt on this basis many times without any issues. Ive come to the point of wondering if its not so relevant with modern highly modified malt. In relation to hot side aeration this was been understood for a very long time to be a non issue in small batch brewing. So unless you are brewing in brewery sized batches you have nothing to be concerned over at all. Hope this helps :)

[@dagwedin8321]

Very intresting regarding the cooling with small batch. Would be VERY intresting to see what the glycol chiller can cool a 10-12L (3 gal) batch to? The limit for a full batch is around 4c?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Dag Wedin I will test it next time I do a small batch. You can set the controller to 2 deg c if you start with a profile. No problem in getting there either.

[@michael0765]

How long do you do your whirlpool for before the stand? Thanks. Mick.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

When using a drill like shown 2-3 minutes usually.

[@michael0765]

Thanks David

[@kevindufresne9956]

For the whirlpool rest, is the waiting time should be shorter if you use a hop spider?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Not really Kevin, hops are just one element of the trub.

[@willholmes2]

I wouldn't be without my hop Spider, got it when I purchased my Grainfather and use it in all but my most recent brew. I wouldn't brew without it now.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Pros and cons really with a hop spider.

[@patrikseeger7038]

Hi David! I am wondering how much of the enzyme you added out of that 4 gram package? Also I watched an interview with the "inventor" of this Brut IPA style, and his conclusion was that if the enzyme was added on the fermentation side, it also affected some of the hop oils so the beer came out less hoppy than if used on the mash side. And if used on the mash side the FG was slightly higher than on the fermentation side. Also, his Brut IPAs are hazy, but that comes down to preference I think. =)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Patrik, I have been doing much experimentation for quite some time with this style. There are different enzymes you can add and different times. Ive experimented with these a lot before this style came along. Ive tested all this and have presented what my findings have been and ultimately what my preferences are when brewing this style to what I feel works best. Everyone will have their own take on this style and all others. What I would suggest you do is experiment yourself in the same way I have to find what you feel works best. You may prefer mine, someone elses or perhaps your own way entirely. Plenty of fun to be had either way :)

[@patrikseeger7038]

Yes, of course. I just wanted to add what I've heard from the interview. It might be something to consider when choosing when to add the enzymes. =) Anyway.... how much of that 4 gram package did you end up adding? =) =)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes, thanks :)I followed the manufacturers directions. I used half the sachet for 10L.

[@patrikseeger7038]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Just wanted to tell you that this beer turned out great. The only thing I changed was that I used Nelson Sauvin for dry hopping and doubled the amount of dry hop because I love them hops. Thanks for the inspiration and recipe!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Great to hear :)

[@dagwedin8321]

brewing this recipe this weekend and i wonder how the IBU is only 24ibu? a 5g per liter hopstand for 15min will add a fair amount of IBU? Brewfather app says the hopstand adds ca 35 ibu leaving the total at over 60ibu. quite hefty for the style?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Different calculators see things differently. I used Beersmith for these. Did you balance your alpha % to mine?

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

+Dag Wedin .

[@dagwedin8321]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew AH sorry i missed this. Yes i adjusted the 15min boil addition to give 24ibu. When i set the zero addition as 0min boil it does not add any ibu. But when i set it as a 15min dryhop it adds 36ibu. However since it is a tried and tested recipie i dont really care since your method results in a tasty brew. The one thing i do wonder about is why make a hopstand when whirlpooling? I thought homebrewers did a hopstand to mimic the reslt of a whirlpool? Escpecially when using a false bottom.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

@@dagwedin8321 No problem Dag. Yes, different calculators see things differently but if you follow the recipe as is then I am very sure you will be very happy with the end result :) The hopstand comes after whirlpooling. It allows everything to settle to the bottom and in longer examples infuses more into the wort.

[@dagwedin8321]

Wow, fermentation seems to have stopped at 0.998 sg after 6 days. Question: i did a first dump and instead of the usual thick paste it was more like a thick white foam with a very citrusy smell? Seen this before?

[@Brewfather]

Congrats on the new mancave :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Haha thank you :) It has all the vital components except for a kegerator but that is coming soon :)

[@kavel22]

If you whirlpool in the opposite direction than in the video, you wont need that mesh you put over the silicone filter cap. I made over 100 power tool whirpools without it and it never fell off (unless you have another reason for using it). Cheers, great video as always.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks for the tip, I will have to try that. :)

[@marklpaulick]

@s sw I'm interested in this tip... so you are recommending whirlpooling in the Counter clockwise direction? Do you put the silicone cap of the pump filter up against the temp prob or away from the temp prob?

[@haydenhollenbaugh3958]

My notification said bruit ipa brewing, recipe, and meth. I thought this might be interesting. Still interesting.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Haha​, no meth to be found here but I am glad to hear that you still found it interesting :P

[@catslab]

I think you're not using the right amylase. Alpha amylase is to convert starches. Gluco amylase or AMG is the one to use to go beyond what other amylases can do in terms of sugar conversions.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

There is a divide in brewers about the enzyme to use here. There is no "right" one there are choices. You will see this if you google the subject. I have experimented with them all and I prefer the end result using Alpha amylase. They all do the job, which is the important thing. This particular brew is currently at SG 0,997, which used the method contained in this video.

[@catslab]

Alpha Amylases are the ones in the high end temperature spectrum used to produce more dextrins than Beta Amylases. So not optimal. Gluco Amylases are the one that can break dextrines back to fermentable sugars and one compound produced by some saison yeast strains, thus better attenuation. This is science you can read on research papers. I have also used all kind of enzymes before it was used to brew brut. Alphas/Beta are already present in the malted barley. There's no real need to add more unless you're mashing corn whisky beer. But if you want to go further, AMG is one of the possibilities.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Thanks for you reply. I understand all of this and like I say I have conducted my own tests. I prefer the resulting beer with this method. Have you tried it this way? The FG is below neutral still but the resulting beer, to my mind, has the edge. I am not the only one thinking this either.

[@catslab]

I have tried many things as I also brew for distillation and I tried before brut was "invented". If your buds prefer alpha, this is good for you. Mine prefer gluco to go a bit further in dryness. This is like: I like hopped whisky but you might not like it :)

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Yes very true :) You know that's what I really love about brewing and it has kept me interested for over 30 years now. I am not brewing commercially anymore but I am still brewing at least once a week and simply am using this time to experiment and try everything out. What I seek to do with this channel is share that information in a form that anyone can understand and take something from. My message is simple....this is what I found works best for me but I had a great deal of fun experimenting with this and you should too. We all taste things differently and we all have different brewing variables. I hope this makes sense and thank you for your good comments and mature conversation, on this youtube platform you never know what you are going to get back!

[@Freeflyer201]

You shouldn’t agitate your wort in this way while it’s still hot.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Hi Yannick, this is totally incorrect and has been accepted as only relevant to large commercial batch brewing.

[@Freeflyer201]

David Heath Homebrew Where is this accepted? All of my sources say that hot side aeration is of course bad for the beer. This is even more important in small batch brewing since you have more exposure to air relatively to the volume. You are oxygenating lipids, melanoidins and tannins which makes your beer darker and promote staling. You can even see the difference. If you are careful about introducing Oxygen on the hot side your beers will be significantly lighter in color. There have been so many publications and experiments on Low disolved oxygen brewing for homebrewers so that i really don’t see how you could say something like that. In your case a piece of tubing when you are transferring to your fermentation vessel would go a long way.

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

This myth was debunked over a decade ago. Just google hot side aeration homebrew and you will find lots. I have been commercially brewing most of my life, where this is relevant. I have been home brewing over 35 years brewing usually 2-3 times a week and I have never suffered any ill effects. Try both methods over a period of time and you will discover it for yourself.

[@datadeluxemusic]

10:00 - I don't fear HSA but this is sure to make most brewers cringe!

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Only those that fear HSA and I feel that most realise these days that HSA in small batch brewing , as opposed to large batch commercial brewing is not relevant.

[@paulomartins2523]

Whatever type of Whirlpool you do in the Grainfather the results is the same.. Whirlpool doesn't work in the Grainfather system...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

Untrue in my experience.

[@paulomartins2523]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I've been changing experience with a lot of people that using Grainfather and everyone has the same problem... Could you do a video with the complete process of your Whirlpool ? Show us the results ? I would like to be mistake in this case.. I have been using Grainfather since 1 year and the only way to achieve the good Whirlpool process is transferring to a common brew pan... Thanks a lot... P.S. The Whirlpool works until 15 liters... More of this, the Whirlpool is terrible....

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

What result are you not getting that you feel you should be getting? I am connected with a large amount of users that are whirlpooling with results that please them.

[@paulomartins2523]

@@DavidHeathHomebrew The trub needs to be concentrate on the center and it's not happening with a lot of Wort in the Grainfather system...I am from Brazil and I don't have the correct words in English for a very good explain.... The Grainfather is narrow and the Whirlpool stop very fast...

[@DavidHeathHomebrew]

The main point (though there are other reasons to wp) is to separate trub from wort. You dont need the trub in a cone in the middle, you just need it separated from the wort and at the bottom. Then when you transfer you will have cleaner wort.