DAY 31: Wild Horses on The San Rafael Swell | Zion to Green River Hike VLOG

Day 31 of my backpacking journey from Zion National Park to Green River, Utah in spring of 2022.
After camping in the Mussentuchit Desert near Red Point, I got to my cache site and then continued through the barren landscape enjoying some interesting volcanic dikes and lava bombs along the way. I was fortunate that this last day of May was uncharacteristically cool as shade was hard to find. Near Ant Spring I met many of locals taking advantage of the water source and a large white stallion made sure I didn't stick around. I vised the gravesite of "Razor the Desert Horse" before being confronted by two more wild horses en route to Hebes Canyon. Made my way down the canyon of "black rocks" and crossed paths with more horses along the way. I eventually connected with Willow Springs Wash and followed it down to the Muddy Creek. It was an eventful day for what seemed as if it might be just a "connector" day on the itinerary.
NOTES:
As referenced in video, UDink's Blog featuring many San Rafael Swell locations:
udink.org/
I hope you enjoy this vlog-style experiment with daily videos to re-live my big hike from earlier this year. Some days will be short, some will be long -- but each will represent one day of hiking and hopefully include something new and fun to watch!
Thanks for watching!

[@harryjames2299]

Good stuff. The quiet, the rancher, the horses, the lava bombs. Thanks.

[@Acrossutah]

You are welcome and thanks for watching and continuing to "follow along". Cheers! ✌

[@A-K_Rambler]

Gear Stipend!!

[@Acrossutah]

Yay -- thanks for the SuperLike A-K Rambler! 😀👍 Very appreciated and will definitely put in my new gear piggybank for this next year. Cheers! ✌

[@greggmeyers6463]

Really enjoy your trips. This one is just CRAZY!! Been doing land surveying for 50 years and have been many places you travel. Now semi retired in Hurricane, Ut. Hope our trails will cross some day. Thanks Jamal!!

[@Acrossutah]

Very cool. Thanks for watching and sharing your perspective. Cheers! ✌

[@farmermark2067]

Fabulous and epic walk. Following since day one. The lava dikes were sweet. Thank you for sharing this journey, Love a bit of geology lesson in the mix. Get to see sites and views few will ever see!

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks! Yeah, I didn't realize this area had so much evidence of volcanic activity -- it was cool to see. Thanks for "following along" for the full journey. ✌

[@StereoSpace]

On the stallion...you are a predator from his point of view. You read his front-facing, aggressive stance correctly. He was telling you to stay back and keep your distance. He also assumed you were going to circle around on him, which is why he followed at a distance and watched you.

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah, he was definitely the most aggressive of the bunch. Much more that I failed to capture on video (snorting, stomping the ground towards me, etc.) That said... I knew that if I could just back away slowly it would be fine -- but it was a bit unnerving that he kept following me for a bit. That said, I didn't really think he or the others would go out of their way to harm me (meant to clarify that in the video with text.) But in the end... I was happy to see them as they are such beautiful creatures. Thanks again for watching! ✌

[@johnregehr9413]

Nice. I didn't know there was a walking route down from Mussentuchit to the Muddy. Fun!!

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah -- I really was just kinda making it up hoping it would work! I could tell via maps and SAT imagery the landscape of the area wasn't too extreme and that if I could get down to Willow Springs Wash it would be obstacle free from there. I'm still curious if Hebes canyon was walkable -- I saw one dryfall, but it seemed to have an easy bypass. There looks to be some pools in wetter seasons too. Actually though the horse trails through the hills along the rim was a good way to go -- scenic and fast. Thanks for watching and the comment! ✌

[@cathymoore1739]

Loved the wild horse encounters. Think those last two brown ones were escorting you on out of their territory. 👍🐎

[@Acrossutah]

Yep -- though it was a bit unnerving for a bit, I loved seeing them. They were definitely the more territorial ones I've ever encountered -- but they probably don't see too many people like me walking out there! Thanks again for watching. ✌

[@lyndonreddick1888]

I'm sure it must be Piss Ant Dome as it looks like one of their little mounded homes. 😆 Cool volcanic landscape and stories. Stallions like to mark their territory by making piles- as you could tell they are territorial. Someone once told me they do that to eat it later- I don't really believe that. That landscape reminds me of the areas around Mono lake- wild horses there too. Like the tunes, makes everything fun.😅

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks for the info. I few people have commented re: the method of marking territory -- I didn't know that they did that that way! Thanks for watching and the comment! 🌞

[@steveh.8625]

Lessons I learned traveling around the back roads is to always carry 2 spare tires; a high lift jack with some where to easily connect it to the frame on the front, back and sides; and if you are carrying any weight, you'll need something like 12 ply tires with sidewall protection. When you get older it will be a lot harder to hike out of those areas.

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah, I was definitely felt a bit nervous when I got the new Jeep w/o a spare. Though... I've only had one flat my entire life and tht was abut 30 years ago. But... I really don't do many truly rough roads. The thought did cross my mind that I was prepared to hike out if I had to do it. Thanks for watching and the comment. 🌞✌

[@steveh.8625]

For spares, I would go to a used tire dealer and get the wheel and tire real cheap. I kept one on a rack on top and the other underneath. However with the weight of extra gas, water, tools and spare tires, I would blow out the back tires if I went over 45 on those dirt roads. So I had to spend a lot on the 12 ply tires, but they last so much longer its worth it. When digital cameras and Adobe photo shop came out, I started making slide show DVD’s of my Southwest explorations (via truck). Later, my grandson gave me the idea to put them on KZbin. They are not viewed, so I stopped putting them up. During COVID, my wife and I moved back from Tucson to Illinois so she could be close to her family. We really enjoy our evenings watching our slides and You Tube adventures such as Across Utah. Your show takes us to places we could never get to see on our own. Thanks

[@potatothorn]

what a special episode with the horses! wide open scenes and cliffs in the distance, the stark mud environment/ wow.. /also amazing they dont give you a real spare in a Jeep. best thing i ever did was track down an extra rim my last truck i had 2 full size spares for the desert... might take a little looking but junkyards etc will part with an old rim, throw a decent used tire on it and for relatively little and gives you a lot more security. thanks for taking us with you!

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah -- for being what I considered a "connector" portion of my route, I actually really enjoyed this stretch. I was surprised by the lack of a spare in the Renegade as well, but wasn't too concerned as I don't do anything too rugged with it (and hadn't had a flat for 25+ years!) In the end just happy that the fix-a-flat stuff worked. Thanks again for watching and the comment. 🌞✌

[@potatothorn]

@@Acrossutah yeah as long as you avoid those infamous sharp rock roads which there are not too many of you'll be fine

[@geraenriquez1602]

The videos are super 👌 thank you for sharing with us your adventure in such beautiful places thank youssssss

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks -- I appreciate you for watching and the comment! 🌞✌

[@michaelfoley6670]

I feel I need to agree with Wanderlust 700, in that being in such remote places makes having a spare essential! We often repair flats out there, in addition to having spares. It’s a drag but saves you big $$. Maybe on the roof rack? Anyway, I’m glad you made it out! Thanks as always for the amazing images- the horses were so great to see!

[@Acrossutah]

I traded my Wrangler for a Renegade several years ago and one of many things I miss... is the spare tire! It seemed so odd when I got it, but since I hadn't had a flat in about 30 years I didn't think too much of it. I knew it had the fix-it kit, but didn't imagine it would be good in such a remote location. But... it worked out. Thanks again for watching! 🌞✌

[@martinforrester8249]

That initial Lava cone and runoff ridge ( !!) Reminds me of a much larger one on Navajo land called Shiprock.

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah -- I see that, similar type of geology evidently. I've only seen Shiprock from a distance -- but it's a cool spot. I didn't notice the dikes at the time, but have since seen photos and they are pretty cool. Thanks for watching and the comment! 🌞

[@drone_boss]

I think I just bought the same camera because of your videos!

[@Acrossutah]

Cool -- the Insta360 or one of the others? I have love/hate thoughts on them all. One day I'll do a write-up on my site about various pieces of tech I use. Boy is it a deep rabbit hole at times! Feel free to ping me if you have any questions. ✌

[@drone_boss]

@@Acrossutah the insta X3.

[@mikekuhl2658]

You could end your hike by riding off into the sunset on one of those wild horses lol.😛

[@Acrossutah]

Haha -- that would make for a good "scene", but I don't think those horses were ever going to let that happen! Thanks for watching and the comment! 🌞

[@w9jim]

Quick FYI - You should look into getting a good plug kit for your Jeep. The repairs are permanent and are very easy to install. Of course you still need to carry that small air compressor.

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks for the suggestion -- the Fix-a-flat stuff was great, but yeah having a true plug/patch would probably be better if not carrying a spare. I was kinda shocked that it worked for that road and that distance. Cheers! ✌

[@larryhuddleston55]

Great journey again. I enjoy every day. It's funny how I feel tired toward the end of the trip. SUGGESTION......I just watched "Planet of the Apes" and I wished I could revisit Lake Powell. I boondock Boulder during the Summer to get out of Texas. Singing Slot, Horse Canyon. Wagon Box,, Crown Point...just part of my back yard. I'm sure one day you will walk up looking for water.

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks! I've considered more trips around Lake Powell even across parts of the lake, but the packraft/boat aspect makes logistics a bit more complicated. Maybe one day. Those are some cool areas to boondock -- yes, hope we cross paths one day and you have plenty of water to offer up! 😉✌

[@WJr_88]

Bet you are happy that the Reservoir wasn't deep so that you could wade across it and not have to go all the way around. It's good to know that the Fix a Flat Kit actually works... my car has that as well. Pissant??? I could imagine the huge piss ants coming out of that! "It Came From The Desert" LoL... Maybe the brown horses were thinking they were helping and showing you the way. It's amazing that this is Day (May) 31. Always look forward to watching your videos and know that where and what you will share with us will be wonderful. Thanks for another great VLOG

[@Acrossutah]

Yep -- I actually did a longer "bit" about wading through the water, but unfortunately (or maybe fortunately!) the wind made it inaudible! Yep, I'm a believer in the Fix-a-flat thing now, though really hated to push my luck that distance with it! Cheers! 🌞✌

[@billdickson4265]

Thanks so much for posting this stuff over the years, Jamal. I'm in the process of planning an April 1 - early June hike through some of this country, and your videos and maps are incredibly valuable and inspirational. Also, love the music selections! What's next?

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks, Bill -- I appreciate the appreciation! Two months through the desert -- I like the idea of that! 😀👍 Feel free to drop me a note via my website if I can help with any questions. The map and POIs for this hike and some new Hayduke reference material will be posted on my website after I finish up this video series (so probably late February.) Honestly -- I'm not sure what's next! Right now is about the time I usually dream something up, but... I've been sidetracked by some other projects and somehow STILL working on these videos from last year! 😉 So... we will see. ✌

[@michaelsobieski9691]

I live in Utah and would be pleased to offer assistance if you ever need help placing your caches.

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks -- that's generous. For the most part I really try to be 100% self sufficient, but I appreciate the offer and I'll make a mental note of your comment just in case I ever need some help! 🌞👍

[@candybaxter8879]

Crazy fun! All that horse poop was likely from the same stallion, they mark their territory that way.

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks! And.. thanks for the added info. A few people have commented that now and I didn't realize that was a thing. I mean I knew about other animals marking with urine, but never this. Very interesting. Cheers! ✌

[@DovieRuthAuthor]

Awww…horses won’t hurt you unless you push them into a tight space and scare them. They know they can outrun you any day of the week. The ones that were following you were just curious. I owned and showed horses for decades until my last one crossed the rainbow bridge in 2019 at the ripe age of 29. If he was still around, I’d invite you to visit him.

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah, I don't mean to give all horses a bad wrap as I have met many that I've liked -- but these guys (esp that first one) definitely didn't like me being around. I'm sure they don't see too many people like me out there walking! I really tried to give them their space, but it seemed like they needed to assert their dominance (snorting, stomping the ground, etc.) It was a bit unnerving, but I wasn't really afraid of being hurt by them (I meant to clarify this with on-screen text, but I forgot.) Sorry about losing your last one a few years back. My cousin rides and she loves them as well. In the end I was definitely glad I experienced them as they are such beautiful creatures. Thanks again for watching and the comment. 🌞🐴

[@tangenttrails]

Seemed like a smooth rolling day. Except for the horses. I’d feel better if they stated out in front of me instead of having to look over my shoulder constantly if they were following. Another great episode!✌️

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks! Yeah, it was actually a pretty good day. The horses were unnerving (esp that first one which I didn't fully capture the aggressive behavior), but otherwise I made decent time considering it was a cache day and I shot more video than intended for a "in-between" area. Thanks again for watching and the comment. 🌞✌

[@SDSsongs]

This is an epic route. But I gotta be honest... the whole Mussentuchit Desert area does not suffer from an excess of aesthetic qualities. Curious why you didn't have the route farther to the east in the wilderness areas towards Goblin Valley?

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah -- I was actually dreading this portion of my hike and really viewed it as a "connector" route, but in the end I actually enjoyed the geology and the horses (albeit they were a bit unnerving at times!) I'd considered a few different routes through this area and really waivered on which one to take until just before I set out. I really wanted to get to the upper portion of Muddy Creek and follow it all the way back down to what would have been a more direct route. In other words... spoiler alert... I am headed toward (but not too) Goblin Valley in a very indirect route. 🌞✌

[@elemanedits9826]

Сонун!!!

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks for watching! 🌞✌

[@utahwanderlust700]

Awesome stretch of the trek, and great video again! But you went into the Swell without a spare tire?!?!? That's a big no no. But you did have a flat kit and compressor, so that's good. Where did your spare go?

[@utahdan231]

His Jeep doesn’t have it.

[@utahwanderlust700]

@@utahdan231 Wow, I never thought a Jeep would not come with a spare!

[@Acrossutah]

Yep -- traded my Wrangler for a Renegade a few years back and though there's a lot a like... there's a lot I miss (such as the spare in that moment!) I hadn't had a flat tire for nearly 30 years, so it really wasn't on my mind. I don't do crazy 4x4 roads, but evidently it just took one sharp rock angled the right, er wrong way and the tire was flat within a minute. I'm just glad it didn't have a domino effect on my hike plans (though... that is why Day 1 was such a short day!) ✌

[@tedpeterson1156]

You probably already know this Jamal, but it isn't a bad idea to inform anyone who to might work on that tire in the future, if they have break it down, remove it from the wheel, that fix-a-flat was used inside it. Makes a real mess is my understanding

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks for the info -- I actually did not know that, but... did happen to tell the mechanic when I took it in (so I guess he was prepared for it!) I ending up getting two new front tires. Thanks again for watching! ✌

[@ekimpp]

Please tell me how to backpack. I am a day hiker for over 10 years. Never backpacked. I am soooo ready! I love your work.

[@Acrossutah]

Thanks! And... just do it! I think it's easy to get weighed down by the "right" way to backpack and the various types of gear, but in the end it's just a matter of hiking with extra weight to make for a semi-comfortable night. If you have good weather and a decent water source nearby -- it's not too hard. And IMHO... once one gets past day 3 or 4, the body adjusts and it gets easier! Good luck and thanks for watching! 🌞✌

[@jerryphillips7330]

It must take quite a bit of time planning on where to hide your food, so you don't run out. Then the time it takes you to drive or walk into all these sites where you hide your food. I guess you could call it an adventure before the big adventure hike. Will you have to cross highway 24 again before getting to Green River?

[@Acrossutah]

Yep -- planning out caches is a bit of a chore. Sometimes my route will change, but I need to make sure I always hit the cache locations. Also -- how much to put where can be a delicate balance which I didn't so well at this time (more on that in future episodes.) Nope -- won't be crossing Hwy 24 again (well... not really as part of the "hike". 😉 )

[@martycj8]

You know they make solar panels that clip to your backpack.

[@Acrossutah]

Yeah, I've tried that with some older models and found they really didn't work well (for me anyway.) Seems like such a great idea, but usually the angle is less than ideal so the added time in the sun doesn't help that much. Then another problem for me was going through brush and/or scraping past rock walls where I beat up anything on the exterior of my pack. I've found that having a good panel that is easily accessible that I can put in direct sun each time I stop for a break works fairly well. My output seems lower this year though, so I might need to investigate a replacement/upgrade. Thanks for watching and the comment. 🌞✌

[@utahdan231]

How many pounds did you loose, it’s not a secret? Wild horses were beautiful. Never heard about wild cows. 😊

[@Acrossutah]

I lost nearly 40 pounds on this hike. 😬 I think it will become even more apparent in about 4 more episodes. Funny thing -- I said "wild cows" as a joke, but I later learned that there's really no such things as "wild horses" here either. I thought it was too complicated to address in the video, but I guess technically the proper term is "feral" as "wild" indicates something specific in terms of genetic lineage which doesn't apply here. I learn something every hike! Thanks again for watching and the comment. 🌞✌

[@utahdan231]

Of course it was fun to hear about wild cows. You lost a lot of weight, it showed. What I envy you is your physical strength after the hike. Great video as always.

[@tedpeterson1156]

Can we safely call "Busch Light" beer? Words mean things, don't they?

[@Acrossutah]

Funny -- it's far from my first choice, but I actually enjoyed the TWO I had this hike (this one pre-hike, plus the one I found along the White Cliffs on Day 9!) Cheers! 🍻

[@tedpeterson1156]

@@Acrossutah Oh, I understand completely. It should be disposed of properly! Just doing your part to Keep America Beautiful.

[@UncleJoeHikes]

Ha! Self-respecting cows…I guess technically a canyon is a “ditch.”

[@Acrossutah]

That is true -- so in that case there were quite a few self-respecting cows out there! 😉✌

[@dugfern]

You should be able to get a spare rim.

[@Acrossutah]

Luckily the rim was OK as I stopped immediately (internal gauge alerted me to the dropping air pressure.) I hadn't had a flat in about 30 years, so I wasn't happy to have one way out there! Thanks for watching. ✌

[@dugfern]

@@Acrossutah I just mean for a spare. Tire store could order a rim new or you could find a used rim for a spare tire.

[@jeffMinnesota952]

Jamal, it sounds like you have reason or experience to be concerned about horses or cattle hurting you? What happened?

[@Acrossutah]

Not really. The cows I'm not worried about at all, I just try to not drive them up/down canyon. I've seen plenty of horse before that I haven't worried about, but these were quite aggressive (especially the first one). Not captured on video but he would bluff charge, stomp his feet, and snort at me. I know they are just being territorial which I why I tried to get them plenty of space. Cheers! 🌞✌

[@b.a.d.2086]

Sadly many of the horses you see are either dumped in the desert by irresponsible owners or they are the offspring of the same. It's alarming to see so many of them because the range can't support that many cows and horses. My cousin had grazing rights on the Swell and knew the new dumped horses when she saw them. Most of those horses you saw were afraid or curious. Others went ahead of you because you were on their accustomed trail.

[@Acrossutah]

I've heard that said and that is a shame. I also read afterwards that there aren't any truly "wild" horses here (according to genetics) and thus the correct term is "feral". Funny how I learn more AFTER I make these videos! Thanks for watching and the comment. 🌞