Treadmill Motor Forward and Reverse Direction Switch Wiring and Feasibility

[@crazydavidsmith]

Daze, you changed my life man. I love this stuff and you're THE SOURCE.

[@dazecars]

I'm happy to help!!

[@davidjett]

Bro.. This was well timed and much needed! That's for taking the time to put this together. Using a treadmill motor to replace my meat grinder and mixer! :)

[@dazecars]

Glad it helped! Let me know if I can be of any further assistance

[@timscartoys9321]

This was probably one of, if not the, best descriptions of how to reverse almost any D.C. motor!Even when you know how to do it, it isn't always the easiest to explain it, you yours was first rate!

[@dazecars]

Thanks!!

[@lukes6868]

Thank you for the clear and presice explaination. Also the Diagram was extremely handy.

[@dazecars]

My pleasure, glad it was helpful!

[@douggarson50]

Just about finished my power supply for my drill press, starting to connect the wires. I see the wiring of the DPDT switch on your website is different from this video. On your website, you run the wires to the motor from one set of the outside switch terminals (which are cross connected) not the center connections (which receive the power in) while in this video they run from the center connections and the power to the switch runs to one set of the outside connections (which are cross connected). I guess both would achieve the same result, just thru me for a minute.

[@dazecars]

It's Ironic that the flow of electricity on a "direction switch" is not directional 😂😂 In other words the power supply and motor are interchangeable from the perspective of the switch.

[@jerrywilson7999]

Have used treadmill motors on various machines and now installing one on southbend 9 lathe with reversing switch was wondering how -where a motor choke gets set with a reversing switch in the system THANKS. Appreciate all the good advice

[@dazecars]

I always put it before the switch, however it really doesn't matter as some treadmills have it on the positive lead before the motor and some have it on the negative lead after the motor.

[@codfishknives8526]

So. Is the drawing on your website is wrong?

[@dazecars]

Not wrong at all. two different ways to do the same thing. The difference is the power source and motor have been switched. The result is exactly the same.

[@codfishknives8526]

@@dazecars I did wire mine the way the drawing is. It did work I was just concerned that it might fail. Thanks for the clarification.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@minskmade]

great explanation. where did you get thet fun paddle switch..usually they have dinky little switches.

[@dazecars]

Amazon there is a link in the description.

[@swagswap]

There are various kinds/numbers of loctite. Which do you recommend for securing the flywheel?

[@dazecars]

I would use red as heat can be applied to the flywheel to get it loose..

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for sharing.

[@dazecars]

Thanks for watching!

[@fredoropesa4939]

I have a 3 hp treadmill motor and I cannot find brushes for it. Do you have any suggestions where to look? The number on the brush is 561.

[@dazecars]

Your best bet is to replace them based on size rather than part # take measurements and try to find some with similar dimensions. The length of the brush should be slightly less than the depth of the brush pocket.

[@andrewj1939]

The switch linked in the description seems to only be rated for VAC... is that okay for a DC motor? My motor is 110VDC @ 7AMP at max. I've been trying to find a DC-rated switch that handles that load but haven't had much luck

[@dazecars]

no, and yes. because of the pulsing nature of treadmill speed controllers the electricity flow across the switch is similar to AC and the fact that in most cases you are running them at slower speeds allows you to get away with components you cold never use in a true DC situation. Is it correct? NO. Will it work? most cases YES. Will the switch have as long of a life? Probably not. This video explains in more detail kzbin.info/www/bejne/pYW2pX16htZpbJYsi=7BA9Py8tO4YrdK-m

[@GrahamLegg]

I fitted a DPDT switch and after allowing the motor to stop i put it into reverse and all was good, stopped and run forward again and the SCR blew up, BTA10 motor stationary before restarting forward-backwards-forward fried SCR any ideas why

[@dazecars]

What rectifier are you using?

[@GrahamLegg]

@@dazecars the large black one for a welder that you recommended

[@dazecars]

@@GrahamLegg I would check to make sure it has not shorted out. do you have a circuit breaker between the rectifier and the SCR? also what SCR are you using? what is the amp spec on the motor?

[@GrahamLegg]

@@dazecars Thanks for your help SCR = BTA10 10000w high power Rectifier = QL 100A 1600v no circuit breaker Motor Pacific Scientific 220DC, 12A, 3.2HP, 3400RPM, 2386W What circuit breaker should i be using, is it just a re-setable fuse

[@dazecars]

@@GrahamLegg is it the good SCR I recomend or the long skiny one every one else recomends. I would check for a short. The SCR may have had a defective part in it.

[@stefan3832ify]

Thanks for the videos Awesome info. I do have a question though. Can you use a DPDT switch without an off position if you only use it after the power switch is turned off and lathe has stopped? That way you wouldn't be taking a risk of switching to reverse while lathe is turning? Main reason I'm asking is I thought I ordered a three position switch but no only two. 🤔 Thanks for thoughts

[@dazecars]

could you do it, yes, is it a good idea IMHO no. The risk of switching while it is on or still moving is to high. The first DPDT switch I installed on my lathe was kind of soft in the switching action. In other words the engagement between positions was not very crisp and din't require much effort. I was running the lath one direction, tried tried to switch to off and ended up going all the way to reverse. There was a loud bang and a plume of smoke came out of the back of the motor. Thankfully I was not running the lathe very fast as there was no permanent damage although I am sure I shortened the life of my brushes. Had I been going at a higher RPM the results would have likely been far worse. Also thankfully I was using an SCR which could handle the load and the motor stalling. I have heard from two different people in the last couple weeks that have fried an MC2100 by going directly from forward to reverse. You technique of cutting the main power and letting it come to a complete stop before changing directions would work and would be safe but for me when I am working on a project some times I get distracted ad I could see myself flipping that direction switch to soon. The $9 spent on a new switch seams like a far better price than the $50-$100 it could cost to replace the power supply and/or motor.

[@stefan3832ify]

@@dazecars Thanks for the info. I didn't make myself very clear. I completely understand useing a metal lathe. I am useing a wood lathe and will not be using the reverse switch very much at all and before useing an operation that would require the power would need to be shut off. I plan on securing the switch in a box by itself. Again Thanks for all your videos and help. I'm looking forward to get all hooked up soon.

[@dazecars]

👍

[@nicholasderbin7667]

Hi Dazecars. Its almost like you read your followers minds, and I appericate your indeph explanation in these videos. I was going to question more about the switches and stuff on the other day in the comments. This video rule most of those out. Thanks again. I still got one question. Im using a rotory switch very simliar to the one you have in the other video, but I noticed that one has total of 12 terminals. I bought a 8 terminal one thinking it might do the job. I wanted to see your opinon using the 8 terminal one. I dont know if I can send links from amazon of what I have, but if you were to look it up its basically called "Changeover Switch LW28-20 3 Positions 8 Terminals". I beleive I could use it still but wanted your thoughts.

[@dazecars]

Not all rotary switches are the same. I had to order several before I found one that matched the one that came in my lathe. The problem with most rotary switches is they are not double throw. In other words one terminal can not connect to two different terminals only one. That requires a lot of testing with a meter and jumper wires to get a rotary switch to work the way you want. This one is actually double throw and would work as a direction switch amzn.to/3WlVWKQ

[@O_JAVATEKNIKMANDIRI]

Thanks bro nice.. u help my problem. Thanks i like it

[@dazecars]

Happy to help

[@alaninness8113]

I believe I can tell you why you get these results 🤥. The MC-60 does not use feedback from a tachometer to tell the drive that the load is exceeded, in fact it uses current limiting detection circuits on board in order to do this. In the MC2100 there is a belt speed sensor that is directed up to the TM console, whereupon the console processor adjusts the output signal accordingly and send a signal back to the main board. So using just the main board, feedback has been defeated ! I have been thinking of replacing the controller using a Picmicro to replace the one in the MC2100 where some kind of RPM/current detection can be implemented, as the PWM method of motor control is definitely the way to go.

[@dazecars]

I am familiar with all of that and because of the tach input converted my bandsaw from SCR to MC2100. Bandsaw Upgrade Using the Tach Input on an MC-2100 to Have More Consistant Speed Tach Input Test kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnKql4V-pa2UY5I Turned out to be a total waste of time because an MC 2100 is a fragile piece of electronics. My wife’s treadmill has gone through several of them and that is using it as a treadmill. You put it in a shop situation where you can stick a blade you fry the board every time. I’ve since gone back to the far superior (in the robust category) SCR controller for my bandsaw. I stuck the blade just the other day and didn’t damage anything. MC2100 NOT a Good Power Supply Option for Shop Tools! kzbin.info/www/bejne/r37OiGWJjdGSqaM You may also be interested in this video where I do a head head shootout with three different power supplies. kzbin.info/www/bejne/d5WqqqOvhMSIq68si=4X44xGQ4Fc4u7re5

[@FrugalFixerSpike]

I have mine on a shopsmith with two bandsaws, video on my channel, kzbin.info/www/bejne/bmqnooWHdpxmkLs one is for resaw and one for regular guitar work! The reverse allows me to just flip a switch and move the power coupler and go! Good info, has helped me. I need to find a way to regear my saws motor, have way to many RPM's now and need more torque! Will get to it someday!

[@dazecars]

For most applications gearing a treadmill motor is a must. Where most motors are in the 3500-7000 RPM range I have seen a few with a max of 12,000 RPMS. Not a lot of practical uses in the shop for that kind of speed.

[@FrugalFixerSpike]

Yes, it can zip along as geared at 6000, need max about 3500 for the bandsaws use on it only. The gearing is tough, not much room in the power head to work in. When I get time, I’ll try to figure it out. For now just be fast on the speed control to power through, then turn down so not blow the tires and blade off of them.

[@dazecars]

👍