Ten ways to maximize cooling performance - Complete Watercoling Guide - Part 14

[@briant9251]

So true about the performance dropping with mismatched tube sizes to fitting bores. Every pipefitter I know will tell you a reducer will create turbulence and the turbulence also creates heat. This is why 12mm od 10mm id tube is the best size for G1/4 threaded fittings. You would need to step up to G3/8 threaded fittings to get any real performance benefit from 16mm od 12mm id tubing. Otherwise, the fatter tubes do look best. This is why we do rad overkill though to offset the loss in performance.

[@Soda480Place]

I've listened to you for years and you remain the best. Thank you for continuing to educate us.

[@666Necropsy]

very good videos. you provide years of solid information without all the fluff.

[@MrKentaroMotoPI]

Performance always matters. Convective heat transfer between the water or air and the surfaces is proportional velocity raised to the 0.8 power. Higher water or air velocity is always good. Higher water or air flow rates mean higher velocity. Daz speaks the truth!

[@60d3n]

DazMode, thank you. This is the best liquid cooling information on the entire interwebs. I've been researching for months trying to plan my first custom loop. Screw RGB, I want max coolant flow rate.

[@liushaoxuan]

Great video! Sugestions are backed up by research that is openly available. Should seriously be getting many more subs and views!

[@brechanfraser5797]

Ah the famous Triebwerk fans, so sad when they were discontinued. I used them for my very first water cooling build, and really miss them for both their performance and looks. Great and informative video as always Daz :-)

[@aleksandrbmelnikov]

Use soldered soft copper tubing for most of your plumbing, with borosilicate glass for water sight tubes. Mark each joint in place, but solder it outside of system. Use couplers at waterblocks, and never solder waterblock fittings onto tubing. Always remove any O-rings, compression rings, and tubing nuts, before you solder. Flush all soldered parts in three steps, brake cleaner, isopropyl, and then water. Reinstall rings or seals. Keep your plumbing runs short, so they don't dump heat back into your computer case. I use only one LED per water level sight glass or reservoir. If you must have RGB, hook them to temperature sensors, so at least the colours tell you something useful. Hello, Arduino!!!

[@bitrage.]

I agree with you 1000000% it's like everything mini itx and no1 making the big ultra cases anymore

[@CC_Timbral]

Nice run over water cooling performance. Thanks.

[@mad0nion929]

You are so damn right, i love your sight of things! well done! Heating components are already in the Loop, as i just experienced. My mistake was(in many ways), to choose an aquacomputer D5 Next pump. This miscreated Pump was the worst ive used in my 20 years of pc building. I combined it with a Primochill Combo Reservoir (CTR PhaseII D5 enabled), in which it first stuck.. the pump was mounted correctly, but the wheel wont turn, so i had to manipulate the flat O-Ring, which came with the res.. while that, some liquid ran over the control unit of the Pump and shorted the inner pcb circurits.. game over.. but i gave it a bath in Isopropanol to get rid of rest water, well, it ran again and in the testloop, no components were attached, even no fans on the radiator, but the water temp climbed up to 24 °C in a 21°C Room within 12 Hours.. This pump is misconstructed all over, it is not waterresistant at the control unit,it boils the water, it doesnt fit like a regular D5, it's Sata Power connector is a mess, turned 180° in the wrong direction, 90°Sata Connectors (which the most PSUs supply) won't fit. if you try, the Sata Port's solder breaks and its damaged again.. it even did with a straight connector.. even more reasons, but i have to stop here.. the point is: some Pumps could help rising the water temperature, too...

[@DazModeWatercooling]

Actually any pump motor produce heat, so for leak tests you still need to run fans or at least one on radiator.

[@marcbibeau1416]

I think the main reason is that with all the boosts etc that hardware has, the ROI on the extra work to go "all out" delivers minimal returns. In reality 46 deg or 55 deg on the CPU or GPU will not really affect the performance of the system.

[@BlackPhilosopher]

Daz, I disagree on statement that “the shorter path is always better and have less restrictions”. It is much more complex and people did a lot of testing on that. On the photo you show as an explanation (red themed build) you miss one thing - a lot of sharp/small radius turns (in a way of 90/45 degrees adapters). My personal impression is that length has less impact vs turns. So ideal routing would be nice n a way where you avoid unnecessary small radius turns in expense of little bit longer tubes.

[@ph0t0dave]

Great video Daz! very informative :)

[@jeffm2787]

I tune for silence over performance or looks. Looks are nice, but doesn't get you much in the end. The difference in performance from a 'hot' silent system vs a cold noisy system is soo little I'll again always go for the silence first. Yes I know you can get silence and performance if you have the budget for radiators and the space.

[@MarcParisTV]

I'm always intesrested in performance but in small form factor. My last trial is using 92mm radiator... Good enough to cool oc r7 3800x...:)

[@10ee]

I have the dual 92/184mm Hardware Labs version I've been interested in trying on a 2700x. Thanks for the info!

[@dandel351]

Great video Daz. One thing that has really changed over the last few years is the gains in hardware efficiency that reduce the need for massive thick radiators and huge fans to push through them. I'm using 2 420mmx30mm rads in my system and I think that's overkill for my system. Most mainstream systems would now get away with a single 360 rad unless they are running high overclocks. I may invest in the dual pump idea in the future. I can vouch for the D5 pump totally I've had mine running with 0 issues since 2015.

[@DazModeWatercooling]

I was thinking so, till i got my TR4, barely can cool it and 2080ti with triple rad.

[@pasencoreunautre]

Extremely well explained, as usual. I do have small question though. Do Quick Disconnect No-Spill Couplings affect the flow rate of your coolant?

[@DazModeWatercooling]

Yes, they restrict flow. I tested a long time ago and it was 0.1L per 1 pair.

[@Dennis-vh8tz]

I want both performance and good looks. Guess I'm in the lotsa of rads to compensate for the LED's camp.

[@Brayden421]

I doubt LEDs make nearly as much of an impact as you think. I did some quick research as it didn't seem right and I'm honestly blown away how little power they take. I found some Arduino people doing maths on RGB LED strips and one calculation gave 45 watts for a strip of 150 RGB LEDs. A typical system has maybe a couple dozen LEDs located somewhere where it'd potentially affect cooling so the added heat is minuscule. I reckon you'd get way more value removing things like HDDs from the system and expansion cards you don't strictly need, like sound cards.

[@iAmCodeMonkey]

It is different when they are inside the water cooling blocks, though.

[@varmastiko2908]

45 watts - that's what a low power CPU uses at load. Imagine putting a light strip inside your case where the same amount of power could run another CPU. Then consider what size of a heat sink is typically used on even a low powered CPU and you start to get an idea how much heat these LEDs are adding.

[@greggreg2458]

I have 2 480mm and 2 360mm rads (60mm thickness) in my system but i run my fans at 750rpm for maximum silence.

[@kryptonxxx6691]

Wow what happened in all the years, watched your videos last time like 9 years ago 😬

[@DazModeWatercooling]

Lol, welcome to 2020

[@josediaspinto7438]

"Everydody standardized on the same design" meaning everybody copies the adversary. Circa 2005 when a newcomer introduced new designs, and claimed better performance than the rivals they had to prove it, and were scrutinized by competent testers. As a result only the best "survived". Today, mfr. release waterblocks focused ONLY on RGB and not on performance, as innovative ideas costs money, are subject to being instantly copied as they aren't valued by the consumer used to get cheap products from the chinese. As for impingement blocks, Daz is forgetting the Swiftech mcw-6000, Cathar waterblocks, Swiftech Storm, and 1A-Cooling (German mfr. - no longer exists). 1A-cooling might be the first to use middle plates in the waterblock, for the american side (except for swiftech) was on those days focused on brute force and lage diameter tubing. In those days, the goal was to have a decent performance with the least amount of block restriction, as opposed to what we're seeing nowadays, Today the waterblocks on the market are all high resctriction and thus become a lint trap with the help of additives sold by the mfr. themselves. It also amazes me to see users employing as many as 10x 45º and 90º fittings in one build, especially at the pump and waterblock inlets. Daz your statement that higher flow of air and water are all that matters to achieve a higher performance must be tempered with your personaL GOAL. Horses for courses.

[@zorhis1996]

i wish i could take off my side panel but my graphics card has coil whine... :(

[@DazModeWatercooling]

You Can do only when you game in headphones ( ie under load)

[@zorhis1996]

@@DazModeWatercooling haha sadly no I have open design headphones ,. But I keep the front door of my case always open

[@holdenman8850]

First :)

[@DazModeWatercooling]

Technically I'm first ;)

[@holdenman8850]

@@DazModeWatercooling This is true but only technically lol

[@graffiti73]

Awesome explanation of the times changed. Glad to see another video form you👍