DCC Sound Fitting an LGB Stainz No. 2 G Scale Locomotive | Not Easy!

Installation of a Soundtraxx Econami Eco-200 sound decoder in an early version of the LGB Stainz No.2 G scale locomotive. Not an easy installation because it requires disassembling the whole model and big changes to the wiring.
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00:00 Introduction
01:40 Disassembly
07:09 Inside the Motor Block
07:59 Rewiring
13:04 Checking Stall Current
13:25 Installing Decoder
17:59 Testing
18:35 Reassemble
19:52 Complete
20:23 Summary and Running Session

[@paulmacken8476]

Wow, I’m extremely impressed! Well done. I’ve wanted to change my LGB’s over to DCC but am so intimidated by it all. It would be a total game-changer for me and I could finally do an easy reverse loop!

[@eurovnik]

Excellent video. I believe that's an LGB "clamshell" gearbox. I have an LGB steeple cab loco from the Mixnitz - St Erhard line with the same gearbox awaiting DCC conversion so this will come in very handy - thank you! I've converted a later DCC-ready Stainz and the fitting the decoder (an Mxion Drive-L) was much simpler though it's still a pain to disassemble the body to get at the electronics which are right inside the boiler. I also added DCC sound through a separate sound module connected to the decoder via its SUSI socket. The existing speaker in the Stainz's roof isn't great quality so I replaced that with a better one of the same dimensions.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Thanks eurovnik. Sounds like even the DCC ready version isn't very "ready". Interesting that LGB fitted the speaker in the cab roof, someone in the comments suggested that would be a good location for it.

[@eurovnik]

@@LittleWicketRailway Yes, the later Stainzs with analogue sound from the factory had a moulded speaker housing, complete with grille, built in underneath the roof. The housing helps improve the sound quality by sealing the sides and rear of the speaker. A housing could probably be 3D printed for your older Stainz too. In case of interest the speaker I used under the roof is a 40mm 3w one from ebay. Sound quality was much better than a 28mm "sugar cube" speaker which I also tried, especially the bass which I find is really important to make a G scale loco sound realistic. I've found the best sound quality comes from Visaton speakers. They're a German firm with some genuinely full frequency range miniature speakers. I couldn't find one which would fit well in my Stainz's housing but you might be able to fit one under the older Stainz's roof. Piko G scale locos come with pre-moulded fittings and screw holes for Visaton speakers which is brilliant. I have one of the E94 Crocodiles and it has room for a 6.5cm speaker. So loud I have had to turn it down to avoid bothering the neighbours in the garden!

[@howardnielsen6220]

Wished I had seen your video sooner I installed in the older LGB 2020 and another in the LGB Elias steam Tram # 2150 Thank You

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Were your installs as painful as mine was?

[@howardnielsen6220]

@@LittleWicketRailway Yes, I have arthritic fingers I pay for it the next day still worth it

[@howardnielsen6220]

@@LittleWicketRailway Tell me about the speaker you used I used a small speaker I had removed and saved from something I took apart 3/4 inch in diameter

[@PolishThatHandle346]

Nice video - not a DCC user myself but have experience with the halfway house version that LGB released namely the 20212 versions featuring switchable analogue sound. A coiupe of notes - you're right, rear wires are for coach lights. Ordinarily you'd pick up using metal wheels but as its designed to run outside wired connections are more reliable unless the track is spotlessly clean which it rarely is. I'd also recommend changing the bulb to an LED as the originals do blow out and aren't that readily available. Also the LED bulbs look really good and because the voltage they require to light is so low on analogue you can have the controller turned on ever so slightly with no movement yet illuminated

[@jbhuse]

No wonder those things run for 50 years. Built like a tank.

[@EsotericArctos]

If you did snip the contacts for the motor terminals, there would still be a way to go back to DC by soldering wires, instead of using spring contact style, but the tape should hold for a long time also. This looks like a real mess aaround to get it done. Thank goodness you only need to do it once. You are correct that light globs have no polarity. It might be worth converting them to LED one day to reduce stress on the decoder, but I think the one you chose should handle the current draw of the incandescent globe okay.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

True about going back to DC, but I hate intentionally snapping bits off models (I do it all the time unintentionally 😖). Not sure I'd volunteer to convert another Stainz any time soon.

[@geesharp6637]

Glad you kept at it. Great job. Thanks.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Thanks 👍 😊

[@andrewstevenson5449]

Nice bit of work, that. Bravo, sir.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Thanks 👍

[@LoLeLo_Tech]

thanks i was looking for this

[@lyndonfoster1090]

Wonderful. Useful too for other small LGB locos always wondered if i could use smaller decoders for G. Also i am new to your channel and am interested in your white hanging track support system. Are thoses 3d printed or commercially available? If so if you have a video let me know, if not any info on them would be appreciated. Thanks for a good educational video.

[@chuchuchip]

FYI: All these motors stall at least 1amp. Engine has 2 motors = 2amps. Train LI sells screw base replacement bulbs that are LED, no speacil wiring. I also stumbled upon these bulbs on Ebay & Amazon. I dread when I'm ready to do this to my Stainz engine. Also dread doing both motored trolleys. the trailer trolleys were not that easy when I put on B/B wheels with electric pickup. I wasn't a fan of trolley wires between the cars.

[@johnjmc]

Nice work fella 😊

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Cheers John 👍

[@alanwhite4427]

Very good video, thanks

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Thanks 👍 😊

[@pacificcoastminiatures]

Wow, that was an involved install! Perhaps putting the speaker underneath the cab roof would provide more volume? Looks like it would be hidden since the cab roof looks quite thick.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Apparently that's where the DCC ready versions have their speakers (I've just learned from another comment) so you're suggestion sounds spot on. You'd want it louder if running outside. The speaker I use in the 3D printed shunter would be perfect, it's deafening in the workshop.

[@gwr4038]

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