The Big Classic Chrysler Kickdown Guide! How To Make Your Mopar's Torqueflite Transmission Behave

[@klapaucius77]

Thank you for explaining all of this, I didn't even consider this when planning to throw a 4 barrel on my 361. Just more stuff to learn!

[@cougariog8817]

Full throttle full movement, excellent how too videos. Really enjoying these. Thanks

[@jenseninterceptors]

I never understood how important this really is, thanks man

[@TheKenworthys]

I'm mating a gen3 hemi (wt. OCP intake) to my A518 and have not yet tackled this issue. Your clear explanation is a real help. Thank you

[@beljames1563]

Had a mid 50s Dodge one time that I dropped a 440 into. Was lucky enough to find a push button 727 from a 64 Polara 383 that dropped seamlessly behind it. Adapting the push button from a powerflyte was a challenge. But once I got that somewhat dialed the kick down was the next issue. Actually I never quite got that working right. Then my sketchy handmade motor mounts failed and I went back to a 270 that bolted right in.

[@joshandnissa]

Great video. You are correct that the modern cable kits arent flawless for sure. But they sure beat the way we used to have to cut,weld and bend factory linkage pieces. We used to save every piece of kickdown linkage from anything we scrapped because you just never know. Now days I just keep a couple of the cheap cables hanging on the wall.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Totally, totally agree. And I think with some careful science on the transmission end, they *could* be even better. In my world there are two types of kickdown linkage - “everything is there,” and “that’s *never* going to happen…” And then comes the cable kit internet order.

[@TheRaptorClaw]

This is one of the best videos on mopar cars I’ve seen in a long time. Keep up the good work man 🤙🏽

[@elyeli6250]

Well this makes me feel a lot better. My homogenized 76 dodge truck was missing the shifter/kickdown linkage assemblies. Snagging them off of a 75 to get what i was missing. Better to have an idea of what ill be doing than none at all. Even your wiring videos have helped IMMENSELY to even understand what im looking at. Thank you so much

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Happy to help!

[@pungofisher]

The slot in the lockdown linkage is there so the throttle can return to idle if the trans linkage gets stuck in the full rearward position. Otherwise you could get stuck at full throttle if the trans linkage got stuck.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s the explanation I have been given several times now. I have questions, but that’s ok.

[@Mopardude]

Your style of tech videos are excellent. Learned a bunch of stuff I didn't even know about kick downs. Years ago when I got into mopars someone gave me the advice if I were to change out the carb from stock to always go get the kickdown Bouchillion Performance sells and all the brackets and pieces, it was just easier. So I always have, I never realized how ridiculous this situation was. LOL Now I understand why its a common question you will see on a forum or fb group.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh, awesome! They have all kinds of good stuff. We’ve gotten brackets, fittings, all sorts of stuff from Bouchillion. If I had just told people to buy their kits, this could’ve been such a short video 😅 thank you. Also, really like that pickup in your profile picture… I used to have a ‘46. Mistakes were made and I sold it. I hope to find another one worth owning one of these years.

[@Mopardude]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I just traded mine off for 83 4x4 Dodge pickup. Long story short I bought it in 2010. I was looking for a 70-early 90's pickup or ramcharger, found this instead. Life happened and it ended up in storage all this time. Finally built another shop last fall, now had room to work on automotive projects. Started to put the 42 back together and realized I just wasn't into that project anymore, was more into the ramcharger I got a few years back. The first guy to pm me when I put it up on market place asked if I was interested in a trade. I really wasn't but I asked for unatianium for around here and said sure for any solid 70's-90's truck or A-body. Dude was like sure I can make that happen. In my head I thought no way this guy has a truck decent enough for the trade, but he did. LOL

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

Ditto on the video presentation! I travel in desert area sometimes and have spacers, adding another soon. I added a barrel nut and cut bolt head for extended threads. The accelerator cable is too tight 😔

[@1966-Charger]

The most concise kick down info from the king of the kick down. Its taken months to get all of this figured out after putting a Edelbrock 750 cfm on my 361. Thanks for sure!

[@tonyb3864]

Good video. I also agree the A-833 with manual kick down is much better.

[@sc_308]

I had to do that type mod on my '73 Dart when I put a 4bbl on it (bolt and nut mod). It would shift up into 3rd gear at like

[@1badombre82]

I've got a 74 charger 318 3 speed automatic with an edelbrock 600 4 barrel and medium rise wiend intake. Probably similar to what you had to adjust for right?

[@wiggyjones]

I've wanted to get a 2 or 4 barrel intake for my 64 Valiant slant six, but haven't due to both expense and the rod based throttle and 904 pushbutton kick down. I probably won't mess with. It seems to work OK as it is. Great information, thank you!

[@dantupper1784]

Another really useful presentation! Sometimes I drop the transmission pan to check the movement kickdown function against the throttle opening- especially on the early non-part throttle kickdown units. Use Lokar or the double adjustable linkage on what automatics I have- had the best luck with them.

[@allanperryman388]

Thanks for informing and entertaining me. If not for you and your help, I would never have been a classic mopar owner.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to help! At least I think it counts as helping. Haha.

[@auteurfiddler8706]

I was at the 32nd Street Market grocery store in LA and a kid drove into the parking lot with his Mopar and opened the hood and looked down in anguish. I think it was a 68 Coronet with a 318 or possibly a 383. I went over and talked to him. I think trans fluid was bubbling out of the dip stick tube and the trans seemed to be over heating. He told me he just bought the car a week ago and this happens every time he drives it. He said it also seems like it never goes into third and second gear was very late and a car shaking thunk. And this was just driving it in the neighborhood. He had never owned a Mopar before. I pointed out that the shift down linkage had been wired all the way backwards. I told him how the linkage works. And that wiring it to the back would cause the shifting problems. Even I was surprised about the trans over heating. He didn't have enough parts on it to make it work correctly. I think he was missing the stud and the spring. He then used the same piece of wire to lock the shift down arm in the full forward position. I warned him that this would cause a different set of problems and told him how to make it right. He said he thought the trip back to his house would be a lot easier with the arm wired up rather than down. He promised to set it right after he got home. That was the only time I saw him or the car. I can easily see how driving with the linkage wired all the way forward or backwards could burn up a transmission. It would probably take a few hours of driving. Just having a misadjustment would be less critical and would probably take thousands of miles.

[@butcher390]

Good morning 🙏 🌄 Jamie Thank you so much for making these , technical guide vlogs This was very fascinating and informative I certainly do appreciate this content

[@clembob8004]

I believe I have been relatively lucky with the kickdown linkage. I have a mostly stock 69 Dart 340 with all the stock parts and it seems to work like it should. I also have a slightly modified 73 Roadrunner 340 with the stock kickdown rod and it also seems to work right. But, I had a 69 D100 once that someone removed the kickdown rod from, and it basically grenaded the entire clutch pack after much hard use and many years with no kickdown rod. So, I learned the hard way that you must at least have the kickdown rod hooked up even it it's not perfect.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Absolutely. I realized when editing the video that I never got to the idea that any kickdown is definitely preferable to no kickdown… and that slightly less than perfect can definitely be good enough. My Charger transmission shifts great, and it’s definitely not a perfect setup.

[@sprocket9200]

Dude! Great vid! It explains a lot, thank you. Had a friend with a 68 charger, it didn't shift right, a transmission shop told her it needs to be rebuilt. I took it for a test drive with her in it and manually shifted it. She screamed when I put the pedal down, smoking the tires! The kickdown linkage wasn't connected.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Incredible… how on earth would they not know to check that? Or maybe they did…

[@sprocket9200]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm sure they knew

[@GreatWhiteRodeo]

The slot in the rod lets the throttle close in the weird event that the arm on the transmission cannot return to the forward position. It prevents the throttle from being stuck wide open I guess. And everything you said here is true. This thing is weird and a pain in the but if you have an aftermarket carb and/or intake. With a little work though, it can be made to function correctly.

[@auteurfiddler8706]

I just noticed a 68 300 in the video with the 73 Charger roars to life. It was right before you commented on the Blues Brother car. I look forward to seeing a video on that.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Is it a 300? I know there’s a fast top Chrysler back there. I really know nothing about it. Most of the stuff in that row is long dead with no drive train… also full of bees. So many bees.

[@auteurfiddler8706]

@@DeadDodgeGarage There is a KZbin bee lady that "rescues" hives of bees and takes them where they are wanted. As to the 68 300, there is nothing to know. It is the same as other Mopars of the era. I love those cars. There is a 2 page Gulf Oil magazine ad from 1968 that shows a GT40 with Gulf and Western colors on the pits of a race track surrounded by all the top muscle cars of 1968. The implication being every one of those cars needs Gulf oil. A white 68 300 fast top is the only full size car in the group. Quite an honor. It would be cool to duplicate this photo today.

[@bishopofrustyiron3101]

Super helpful man, I am putting an engine in my 69 charger soon, and will need to tackle this issue!

[@alphonsofoster2329]

Great video, another way around it is a full manual valvebody. You would have to shift as if it was a manual transmission but no clutch.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. I’m well familiar with a full manual valve body. There was a really funny kerfuffle when I released this video where a certain party claimed that having a kickdown is stupid and that every car needs a manual valve body instead. That makes absolutely zero sense for a normal daily driver car or pickup truck. That’s really what I am addressing here. There are many, many people who have this setup on their rig and don’t necessarily understand how it works or how it needs to be adjusted. Hopefully this helps them. For a race car? Full manual is generally the way the go.

[@MyronBuss]

Yea-let your wife or girlfriend drive your car with the manual valve body and see how that goes? I hate the cable setups. I can fabricate any mechanical linkage I need to.

[@patricklynch1962]

Thanks for the video as I'm one of the people who requested it. My '68 Fury VIP has the early three piece linkage and I followed the FSM directions for setting it. It isn't just the length of the rod from the carburetor, but also the vertical rod going down has an adjustment for length. It seems like on a stock 2 barrel, there should be a sweet spot for both rods that makes it work and it would have been nice if the FSM said something like for a 318 2bbl/727 equipped measure the rods for a specific number of turns or a measurable length in inches and then assemble. The kickdown worked on the original BBD, then I switched for a couple of years to a Motorcraft 2150 with adapter plate and got the kickdown to work fine. Ditched the Motorcraft when the throttle shaft needed bushing, and went with a Holley 2280 which was a replacement for the BBD on a lot of late 70's 318s. Dimensionally, everything about it seems to be the same as the BBD, but I can't get the kickdown right. The one time I could get it to kickdown on demand, the rest of my shifts ran too long. Where I have it now, it shifts fine driving but won't kick down.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That sure sounds like a leverage type problem. You’re not getting the correct amount of relative movement top and bottom, so now you’ve got it in a usable but not quite perfect spot. You will only get it to kick down at 100% lever actuation at the transmission. There was no part throttle kickdown in ‘68. So it sounds to me like you effectively need a shorter lever down below to get more travel. Among other things I forgot to discuss was the lower rod adjustments. With these way off, the top rod and pivot can go over center and do other weird things. Dang it.

[@patricklynch1962]

@@DeadDodgeGarage That actually helps. I thought I had the lower rod where the FSM seem to be indicating but it might actually be that I have it set too long. That gives me a new angle to look at. Thanks.

[@patricklynch1962]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I don't know if you'll see this comment or not, but I wanted to thank you for your advice about shortening the vertical rod going down to the transmission. I had it way too long. Got that set right and then some adjusting to the horizontal rod on the carburetor now has me having kickdown every single time. The transmission is happier going through the gears and that classic Torqueflite whine sounds right too. Thanks!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@patricklynch1962 Outstanding! You bet. Happy to help.

[@Rvshadow1964]

Managed to get mine dialed in perfectly, this video was a great help.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome!

[@jediahdrager7370]

Hello, I have a 1971 charger 440 mag that I just can't get the kickdown right on. This video was awesome. But where can I buy a new good quality kickdown and springs? Thank you!

[@rexkean]

Those one piece kick downs are a pain! Back in the 80's (when I was young and broke, now I'm old and broke), I worked on a friend's Dodge, can't remember the car, just the "lesson", that kick down looked like a warped spring when I was done! But it worked 😂😂😂

[@ThisValiantAdventure]

Ever think of auctioning off your priceless artwork for fans to hang up in their garages? Could make enough for an ice coffee, or a mid-tier cider, perhaps. 😊 Great and informative video. If you get a chance to do a shift kit (B&M, etc.) to talk about the operation, pros/cons, that’d be sweet. It’s not your normal thing, but could help some of us.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Hahahaha. I really should consider that. I could donate the proceeds to charity. I'm sure they'd appreciate being able to buy a few extra packs of Ramen, or similar. Oddly enough, I'm actually doing a shift kit in the near future, and will naturally be making a video.

[@georgemaragos2378]

Hi, i wished you posted this 40 years earlier ...... I had a 340 / 727 / 4bbl ( very rare in australia ) so when the 727 died due to burnouts or rev 4k and hit Drive i could not afford to have it fixed So it sat and sat and my friends eventually grew sick of giving me a lift everywhere So i done what any else would do, go the the wreckers and grab another box, except all we had was 273/318 904's - being 20 year old and not working, the $30 used box was the best i could afford - that was also 2 weeks fuel, but since i had not driven the car 4 to 6 weeks i had it saved up. The box fitted but the tail shaft did not - great i have a one of 500 short wheel based Australian chargers with a 727 box .... the local chrysler dealer said - i cant help Luckily the wrecker i first visited and saw later said he is picking up a ex police V8 charger next week - i told him my problem and he wrote a note and said he will place it on the dash I saw him a week later and he said it was a 318/904 and he has the tailshaft Wow now i could drive it But the kickdown was all wrong - or did it hold second i dot recall - it gets worse Anyway it worked fine using the selector manually when needed - all the cool 20yo do that anyway so no big deal A few months pass and the carter thermoquad is playing up, i take it of and go to the only sydney carter repair shop / distributor i the state - when they see it they all say " it looks wrong" they show me what they have and they are all Australian spec ford cleveland 4bbl police style ... they had no the gasket / rebuild kit, they had very little that was suitable So i took the bus back home and it sat on the garage shelf, so i ended up with a holley square bore 600 and a adapter to spread bore manifold - why it was cheaper and the seller said they are just as good .... So after stuffing around with adapters and fart arsing around with accelerator cable i had t reroute it in front of the dizzy and it did not really fit, back to the wreckers for a longer 6cyl cable, of cource it was to long so i had to s-bend it out of the firewall, then to the rear then to the carby Now i have a non oem auto, old 727 kickdown linkages on inlet manifold and nothing on the auto, and now a mis matched accelerator cable Did the kick down cable work or anything NO So after 2 or 3 months, i ended up with a Nissan, and the charger became a weekend car. Eventually my new mechanic and his friend sorted it out with mix and match, it was about 80-90% ok and quite driveable - not OEM or perfect but fine Years later with camaros, the 76 350/350 has issue and i purchased a lokar cable, i think it was $130 in 2005 it came with some add on brackets to suit, the cable was fine, but later i had a issue with headers, it actually burned the outer plastic of the cable and scorched a bit the inner cable but water and road grit had gotten in, another cable later and some , carefull positioning and the use or a strap of the bell hosing to hold the kickdown - oh i got rid of the headers and went to simply Tri y pipes and got 8 to10 years trouble free motoring So yes i learnt the hard way about throttle position and relationship to kick down cable, the same issue occur with doing up australian chrysler 6's as most run a borg warner 35 auto with cable kickdown, you can get 727/904 autos but they are very rare limited to police / emergency and the factory offered heavy duty packs - some years a taxi pack would give you either more clutch packs in the BW35 or a 904 ( and a V8 radiator )

[@auteurfiddler8706]

Here is a common challenge: When replacing a two barrel for a four barrel on a 62-74 V8 Mopar, the two barrel carb linkage and trans linkage are no longer going to fit. The two barrel is far narrower than even the narrow four barrels like Holley 4160s (which had super wide linkages as OEM Mopar carbs to make them as wide as AFB's and other Carters). You need to either go into the Classic industries catalog and start searching for parts, hope you have access to a parts car, or be ready to cut and weld back together your old parts to make them fit. As shown in the video, the taller the intake and carb spacer the more difficult it is going to be.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. It doesn’t end in ‘74, either. It’s essentially all carbureted Mopar V8s.

[@samhicks97]

I believe the slot in the transmission kickdown lever is so that, in case the carburetor gets jammed at WOT the transmission is not jammed also. Or vice versa, it allows the carburetor to return to curb idle. Not fun for the very VERY early style 3 piece linkage where it has a ball joint attachment, makes the transmission & carburetor as one. Still, you could press the neutral button... (push button automatic on my end) to "deactivate" the transmission I suppose. I was looking for kickdown adjustments, but the kickdown is adjusted, as per manual and various sources. anywho, here's my question: The transmission: A727 button shift variant with the 3 piece style linkage. Problem: On WOT in first gear, the gas pedal gradually drops to the floor even though I go from heavy foot pressure to light pressure the same problem occurs, there is no binding that I can see. Once I'm up to 2nd gear @20MPH, the gas pedal drops to the floor like normal on WOT. It sounds strange but the gas pedal feels like it RESISTS WOT, @1st gear but no binding is seen, ratio screwed up as you say? To me it sounds like a governor issue but honestly I'm grasping at straws at this point.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Huh. That definitely sounds like some resistance against the throttle lever’s movement inside the transmission which shouldn’t be there. Not long ago, I had a really strange problem with a push button that was not the same, but this reminds me of it a lot. At any speed above a stop, it was no longer possible to use the push buttons. So you basically couldn’t upshift or down shift manually, except in rare cases. The early transmissions have a reverse lockout function, and the manual shift valve/rod/slider piece had been replaced with a later one that wasn’t compatible with that. The lockout piston was hitting it in drive positions and stopping it from moving freely. Again, not the same problem, but it’s the most similar situation I can think of. I think you probably have a valve body problem. Apparently, it is *very* common for the push button valve body to crack, and that could be your issue. I don’t know enough about them to tell you where to look for cracks, or what circuit is even capable of doing that, but that’s what it sounds like to me. Also, that makes good sense. It would be the latter - the carb can return to idle if the linkage jams in the full throttle position.

[@samhicks97]

@@DeadDodgeGarage appreciate the swift reply, I'll get to tearing into the valve body, and reference the FSM with the flow chart. Thanks.

[@AllensAutomotiveReparations]

Well from my experience with late 60's to early 80's Ford C4 and C6, 3 spd automatic transmissions, they were actuated via a Vacuum cannister on the trans controlled by a vacuum line to the back of the intake or carb pollution spacer, and passing gear was actuated via a rod running from the carb down to a linkage on the trans so that when you floored the throttle the trans would down shift into second gear for passing slower traffic.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Right. GM used the same in many applications. Chrysler didn’t use that system. They used the throttle valve / “kickdown” setup as a way for the transmission to make load calculations, firming up and delaying shifts depending on conditions.

[@AllensAutomotiveReparations]

seems like a good idea but a lot more finiky in application@@DeadDodgeGarage

[@jdpinbaytown]

Great Video!, Lots of folks don't know this about the Torqflight and the RE/RH Tranney's, I didn't know myself way back when until the one on my 1st Car "1970 Chrysler Newport" got the wrong Arm put on the Tranny when it got rebuilt, It got fixed with the Bolt and nut till a different Carb was put on then it was fixed right! The 45RFE behind the 4.7 in my 2001 Dakota is all Electronic controled and has no Cable at all!, Think it's a much better Tranny!, 250+K on it and still works perfect!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep - 545RFE was their first RWD/4x4 transmission design that went away from that. The 48RE of 2003 was even still basically the same design. I’m trying to remember how they dealt with it, because I don’t think it had a cable anymore. I can’t be bothered to crawl under my truck and look 😅

[@ivandukemusic]

I have been binge watching your stuff. I really appreciate what you’re doing.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you! I really appreciate that.

[@realmaindrianpace]

The purpose of the slot in the kickdown/TV rod is to prevent the throttle from getting pinned wide open should the kickdown rod become jammed at full travel.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Someone else said that. Makes perfect sense!

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

Yes! The Mopar variation frustration , and key info @13:30. Thank you. Good stuff. Kudos to the "artist" 😂

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I could’ve put the key info a little closer to the front 😅 accidental or intentional to increase watch time? We’ll never know…

[@stuckinmygarage6220]

@@DeadDodgeGarage please don't change 👌

[@saxmusicmail]

904 transmission... in addition to setting the kickdown linkage correctly, you can do what the Direct Connection shift kit did. I got mine in the mail (years ago) and it had four things in the box. A new trans pan gasket, a new filter, a piece of electrical conduit (3/4" dia?), and a xerox of a xerox of a xerox of a xerox of instructions. Basically, you dropped the pan, spilling Dextron all over you. Then you removed a few screws to remove the valve body. There is a piston with a spring behind it not unlike a valve spring. Toss the spring, and substitute the piece of conduit which blocks the piston in the downward position. Sorry, I don't remember how long the conduit should be, I had it written down long ago. You can probably do this with a little guess work. Then you find the line pressure screw on the side of the valve body and screw it all the way in. Put it all back together with the new gasket and filter. Top off the transmission fluid. Now you have the perfect shift for a street rod. Nice and firm without being too harsh.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah. An essential part of every Torqueflite shift kit. Most folks just throw the spring in the round file and forget the conduit, I think.

[@maddrummer910]

Dude everything I’ve needed help on you’ve literally made a video about it. Thank you so much 🙏

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Awesome! Happy to help!

[@michaelnault5905]

Now I know why Mopar guys are always reaching for their shifter :-) I read once that a mechanic serviced a working Torque flight only to find that it worked in spite of being broken. The mechanic wasn't surprised. They're very strong.

[@jasonjason5184]

Got my 904 rebuilt with only a stage 3 shift kit and I always shifted it manually, had it serviced and no problems.

[@1badombre82]

This is very informative. I've had a automatic 74 charger since I was 14. So 20 years. Haven't driven it much but I but a edelbrock 600 on a medium rise wiend intake on it when I got it. Never hooked the kick down back up. Now that I'm divorced it's time to get back to work on it lol. If you or anyone has had experience with that particular carb and intake hight with the 318 3 speed automatic it would be much appreciated

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Everything I can tell you is right here in this video.

[@blakenewton7972]

I have a 69 Charger with a Holley Sniper EFI, a carb spacer to keep the sensors from being barbecued on the Torker single plane intake and aluminum heads with headers. All this means that the average person needs a Lokar throttle cable ( had to find that out myself) and a Lokar kickdown cable . I used a Demon TVS cable bracket as the Lokar cable bracket was priced ridiculously. It actually works well. The chances of this happening again is about the same chance of hitting a powerball lottery twice. So yes I get it . I have heard that Bouchillon uses a copy of the A-518 cable style but I went Lokar. Again, I think that's a big minus for the Sniper setup.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Interesting. I haven’t heard about using a spacer for heat considerations. I’ve heard both that it helps even out the vacuum signal to the map sensor, and that the idle air valve doesn’t work well without one. I can’t confirm any of this. I ran a spacer under the one I installed on a truck and it worked well.

[@ChiruStone]

Hey Jamie, i hope you read this im in desperate need for help! I’ve tried every possible adjustment on the rod linkage at the carb after doing an intake swap and carb swap from a 2bbl to 4bbl. Its a eddy 500cfm and eddy performer rpm. Its also a van. Im going to try as pero your recomendation on this video to shorten the ratio on the libkage lever on the transmission. Is there any advise before drilling holes on the lever, or i should find itmout myself by try and error? Thanks man you are always saving our mopar butts!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve never actually had to go that far before. You’re using the Edelbrock throttle adapter with the factory stud mounted to it? Is this a three piece linkage? If so, try extending the threaded middle section that goes from the top part to the bottom. If it’s a one piece linkage, you could try bending it slightly. There should be a way to do this without modifying the arm if it worked prior to the carb swap.

[@ChiruStone]

@@DeadDodgeGarage well actually the problem was not rod/throttle adapter or so. I had no full travel on the lever at the transmission in relation to travel on the carb from 0 to WOT. I looked in my spare parts and found that the lever on newer TBI DODGE VANS (this was 1988) is way shorter, shortening the travel lenght. That seems to have fixed. Tomorrow i’ll make sure. Just in case you find yourself in this pickle lol thanks for all the help man, i always appreciate your help and love the videos.

[@alcyr5655]

Didn't mean to get you wound up at the last live stream. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place. The '57 D-100 has a '69 Fury front clip, so engine set back into firewall is a little extreme. Add to the fact later replaced the 318, with a '68 340, that kinda grenaded the Fury 727. So even back in the 80's we tried modifying the linkage, had to build a doghouse because the engine was so recessed. Went from 2 bbl 318, to 4 bbl 340. For me get rid of the old B/M street and strip shift kit, and go full manual. And yes it cuts corners, but It's a 57 D100, with a 60's drivetrain, daily. not race car. And yes my 16 month old German Shepard still annoys me when I watch videos.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Did you get me wound up? Haha. I do remember getting going about that troll guy. Gotta see this truck some day. Seems like a really neat build. Good dog! And as I say that, there’s one barking here for no particular reason. 😅

[@TheodoreGFaulk]

Ford uses a vacuum module, a governor on the back by the tail and a kickdown rod at least for the C6. Neat

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. Multiple GM transmissions use a vacuum modulator and a kickdown cable. Turbo 400 uses a modulator and an electric kickdown solenoid. Chrysler used this same basic configuration with a linkage and then a cable for 40+ years. Even in the electronically controlled torqueflite based 46RE and similar, they still used this setup.

[@ChristopherChartier]

Does that slotted piece that attaches to the carburetor need a spring that pulls it forward?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes it does.

[@ChristopherChartier]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks!

[@trojan440]

DaVinci would be jealous. 😂 You just reminded me I have to get all that stuff for my 73 charger .😢 Oh boy.

[@MrToughNoogies]

So, should the lever on the trans be pushed all the way to its stopping point at full throttle to show its properly set up? I have an Edel + spacer + linkage adaptor and am working to make it straight up top on a 318 4 bbl ‘74 charger. Up top, I’m almost done, but wasn’t sure how aggressive to bend the one piece bar to push the lower linkage on the trans. Thanks for these videos and the info!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yes - full throttle, full push back. If all works out right with your modified linkage, this will result in your shift points being correct. You bet!

[@MrToughNoogies]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Perfect! Thank you! Really digging these mopar tech videos and details you've been putting out alongside your project vids!!

[@zombezoo]

Jamie, Is the solution to the kickdown cable problem just measuring how far the cable moves through the range or travel, and then some geometry to work out the distance from the pivot the carb attachment needs to be? Is it right that you want the kickdown lever at its fully closed position at idle and fully open at wot and everything in-between would be "where it's supposed to be"?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Exactly!

[@jasonjason5184]

Never worried about the kickdown, stage 3 shift kit changed manually up and down only damage was small cracks on the converter snub from down shifting at speed.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh sure. Because race car. Plenty of people have reached out to share the virtues of the kickdown delete. I continue to maintain that grandma’s New Yorker and Jim-Bob’s D250 work truck still need one - and for their mechanics, this video exists.

[@jasonjason5184]

No race car just daily driver column auto, yes grandma could not be bothered to change 1 2 3

[@LongIslandMopars]

Why do I like that Barracuda with the Dart nose??? Because it actually looks cool!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh I have to agree. Haha. At first I wanted to put the Plymouth nose back on. It’s been in the family like that almost ten years now, so I don’t think I’m allowed to change it. And I definitely like the look.

[@LongIslandMopars]

Something about it just makes it look........ Australian. 😎

[@budislavmarkovic8267]

Hello dead Dodge dudes and dudettes! The purpose of the slot in the kickdown rod is for safety. For some one in a million chance that some stick or a branch or your neighbor's cat get stuck on the lower part of the kick down rod when you have your throttle floored. Then when you release the throttle it's going to keep the throttle wide open so the slot allows the carburetor to return to idle. It is a safety feature. Marko.

[@justacountryboy9591]

Can you run the linkage to stay open at all times for a race application

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ve heard that many people have. I haven’t tried it myself, but yeah - that will delay the shifts as long as possible. I’m sure it’s obvious that it doesn’t work on the street.

[@justacountryboy9591]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I'm going to try that and see what it will do on a warm 70 340

[@alparker8661]

Always enjoyed the tire chirp I would get on kickdown.

[@wolfen7577]

Still wayyyyy better than dealing with countless sensors, solenoids, inhibitors, ect. A good reliable design you only have to learn once .

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

So, so much better. I love it!

[@OldcarsNmusic]

For future reference Jamie, those pivots are called bellcranks.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, yeah!

[@xxwes997xx]

got a link for the cable kickdown setup video?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJqTiKhqoZugq7Msi=N99k-d0k_TeHPPoI

[@danielroberts698]

I have a 96 ram 1500 4wd with the 360. The transmission has never shifted properly. I have spent hours adjusting the cable. Watching several videos from transmission shops and other mechanics. I have tried so many different ways of adjusting. I just live with it now. Playing with the gas petal and different speeds to get it to shift into the final gear and overdrive. Otherwise it just won’t shift past second gear. Very frustrating to say the least.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Huh. That’s a new one on me. Shifting is determined by throttle pressure vs governor / road speed / line pressure. I wonder if this could be a governor weight problem masquerading as a kickdown / throttle pressure problem? Or a valve body problem? But I am absolutely not an expert on the inner working voodoo in an automatic transmission.

[@RobPaytonstewart-xw2xs]

Thank you for that video, just helped me out at the right time

[@ACEMIDNIGHT102]

This is helpful for the confusing mess that is my 318 1991 d150

[@matthew8086]

Could you do a second one with just the stock adjustment procedure Like one of the dodge trucks with a 2 barrel?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

All you do is pop it off of the carb stud and spin that end of the rod in or out until at full throttle, your cannot push that kickdown rod any further rearward. Done.

[@matthew8086]

What about the one at the bottom by the trans. The block with the bolt and spring thing?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@matthew8086 ideally you won’t have to touch that one. If you don’t have enough adjustment on the top one to get it whichever direction you need, you can loosen the block and adjust there. I usually don’t need to.

[@matthew8086]

You rock…yes, yes sir you do

[@arvinwhitt4106]

mind,has a 727, can you use the stick to shift it out or do I need a cable?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You need a cable or linkage in place, unless your transmission is specifically built into a full manual race type configuration. Even when shifting it manually through the gears, the shifts will be soft and transmission wear will happen rapidly without the “kickdown” (throttle valve) in effect.

[@JeffSariego]

Does the 904 auto adjust the same way as the 727 or is there a difference? Thanks for your quick response keep it mopar

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Exactly the same! I realized in the edit that I never said this applies to 727, 904, and the newer overdrive variants up until around 2002. That’s my bad.

[@noberet]

Years ago a mechanic with a radio show tried to tell me if I didn't have an electric kickdown solenoid, I needed to restore it. In a 1972 Charger, 318 and TQ 904. He would not listen to anything about a mechanical kickdown, lol.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s the silliest thing I’ve ever heard

[@noberet]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Right near the top for me too.

[@brkooduh66]

i've been fiddling with my kickdown (cable) ever since watching this. i still have a burning question: is it okay to have a bit of tension on the kickdown at ZERO% throttle? should there be none? or if there is some how much is too much? I think this was loosely mentioned without specific details. Thanks man. Excellent real-world vid-eeaz

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The cable should be fully relaxed at idle / zero throttle. I’m assuming you’ve gotten it to roughly the full throttle, full kickdown actuation neighborhood? What are your shift points like? If it’s starting at closed throttle with the lever partially pulled, I would expect firmer, delayed shifts. If it shifts ok and reaches 3rd gear around 30 MPH, you’re probably ok.

[@brkooduh66]

@@DeadDodgeGarage shifting up feels great. kickdown, i'm not sure, it did scare the crap out of me when accelerating slightly from 45mph, so maybe a touch too early. both cables are connecting Holley 4150 4bbl to a A904, using fancy QuickFuel bracket. i do have full throttle, i was just concern about having preload on the cable at 0%. when i back it down a bit, then the up shift isn't as good, but then kickdown is mellowed out.

[@rodneybyrd9516]

TransGo TF-3 kit, FTW!! lol

[@chargerman426]

My understanding is the slot was to ensure the kickdown linkage doesnt cause a hung throttle situation should the linkage get hung up on something.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I think you’re right! That seems to be the consensus.

[@ninjameep8616]

Literally had my truck go backwards in park because the lokar kickdown cable i put in wasnt adjusted right and i also didnt have the idle set right at the time so it literally floored it in park going backwards, scared the shit out of me and now I'm trying everything to make it actually shift in gear but NOT MOVE in park, wish i tried more with the linkages at this point before spending so much

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The kickdown cable cannot possibly cause that - unless you somehow assembled it in such a way that it blocks the shift linkage? There is absolutely no relation between the kickdown adjustment and how the shifter works.

[@allanperryman388]

I had to go with the cable for my 360 swap.

[@OldcarsNmusic]

My '82 Mirada's getting the kickdown linkage delete.

[@MyronBuss]

Fool!

[@79tazman]

All i do is get a manual valve body and shift when I want to shift that way the headache of the kick down is no more. I do have my truck that uses the kick down and everything with a factory carb the rest are manual valve bodied.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s great - for a race car. For a car that someone just wants to drive like a normal car every day, that’s not a good solution.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

@@moparsareeverything1980 ok 🤣

[@billcobb9408]

Talk to us about what to do when you replace the carb with an Edelbrock

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I actually think I did exactly that later in this video. Buy the Chrysler throttle adapter for an Edelbrock, transfer the factory throttle stud over to it, adjust the linkage out to line up with it. May have to lengthen the top rod or install a bolt and nut in the slot to effectively lengthen it to meet the throttle stud.

[@rocco3381]

You’re supposed to set the travel at the trans, then fine tune at the carb. At least that’s the factory procedure for the one piece kickdown. That’s why the carb end is slotted.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The carb end is slotted to prevent the linkage holding the throttle open. And I’m sure that’s correct. My main aim in this video was to explain how the linkage operates, the different ways to adjust it, and how to make it work with an aftermarket 4 barrel, as that is the most frequent issue I see by far.

[@rocco3381]

@@DeadDodgeGarage one more point, the better cable kickdown is sold by Bouchillon. It’s a duplicate of the later factory setup. Also, many 70s big block motorhomes used the 71+ B/E one piece kickdown assembly.

[@altpraize6708]

Great video

[@richardweyland116]

Is "goofy" an automotive term? I don't remember Mona Lisa Vito using it....

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Sure 🤣

[@kenjohnson3641]

I shifted a beer between hands does that count?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s Sunday, so I’m gonna say hell yeah!

[@seniorjuanvaldez]

Geometry is hard! 😮

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Srsly tho. Not my best subject…

[@garytilley6510]

Very helpful, thank you

[@glennlee6274]

any one know how to set this up for a 2x4bbl???

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nothing I’ve done… yet… I’m sure it’s going to involve a custom top rod at a minimum - or the lokar style cable can definitely be made to work.

[@jeffrowlette]

When adjusting the THROTTLE PRESSURE LINKAGE (not called a "kick-down"), remember the old phrase "better late than never". Better to hold a gear longer than to have short shifts.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

If the collective masses call it a kickdown (they do,) it’s ok to call it a kickdown. And - I agree.

[@Legacy_Lou]

I like the "artists" rendering 😜

[@IMunchOnCats]

From my service manual for 1968 with a three piece kickdown on small blocks (id post the picture too, but yt): (Dart with 273-318 or 340 Cu. In. Eng.) 1) Apply a thin film of multi-purpose grease on accelerator shaft (3) where it turns in bracket, pivot points of both upper (6) and lower (7) linkage bell- cranks, ball end and pocket (14) at rear end of throttle cable. 2) Disconnect choke (8) at carburetor or block choke valve in full open position. Open throttle slightly to release fast idle cam, then return carburetor to curb idle. 3) Hold or wire transmission lever (11) firmly for- ward against its stop while performing adjustments in the next four steps. It is important that the lever remains firmly against the stop during these steps to insure a correct adjustment. 4) With a 3/16" diameter rod (9) placed in the holes provided in upper bellcrank and lever, adjust length of intermediate transmission rod (10) by means of the threaded adjustment at upper end. The ball socket (2) must line up with the ball end with a slight downward effort on rod. 5) Assemble ball socket (2) to ball end and remove 3/16" rod (9) from upper bellcrank and lever. 6) Disconnect return spring (13), then adjust length of carburetor rod (12) by pushing rearward on rod with a slight effort and turning the threaded adjustment (1). The rear end of slot should contact carburetor lever pin without exerting any forward force operating position against lever pin nut. 7) Assemble slotted adjustment (1) to carburetor lever pin and install washer and retainer pin. Assemble transmission linkage return spring (13) in place. 8) Remove wire securing transmission lever, then check transmission linkage freedom of operation, move slotted adjuster link (1) to the full rearward position, then allow it to return slowly, making sure it returns to the full forward position. 9) Loosen cable clamp nut (4), adjust the position of the cable housing ferrule (5) in the clamp so that all slack is removed from the cable with the carburetor at curb idle. To remove slack from the cable, move the ferrule (5) in the clamp in direction away from the carburetor lever. 10) Back off ferrule (5) 1/4". This provides 1/4" free play between the front edge of the accelerator shaft lever and the dash bracket. Tighten cable clamp nut (4) to 45 inch-pounds. 11) Connect choke (8) rod or remove blocking fixture.

[@p38kris]

Great video man! Still rather row my gears lol 😅

[@gasser66]

"Not so fast there tiger" 😂

[@jamesgullo8240]

The bellcrank was well engineered by Chrysler.

[@gsb0b]

The slot is incase the rod gets stuck it won't hold open the throttle

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

So I’ve been told

[@linwoodlane7006]

Well thats a minefield , having faffed about with trying to get throttle response and feel right adding a gearchange in the mix has fried me bonce

[@patrickkelly5239]

Yessss! Finally! 👏🏻

[@moparcasey3135]

I fixed mine with a manual valve body.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s one way to do that. I personally don’t recommend it for a pickup truck, a daily driver, a highway cruiser, or grandma’s C body wagon though.

[@moparcasey3135]

It’s a 440 duster. But grandmas wagon with a nasty big block and a manual valve body with a 456 gear would be awesome!

[@Project-Mopar]

DDG you're the best!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!!

[@steveash9831]

Oh my wow! You are making me feel guilty! I vaguely recall telling you that you saved my life with your videos, when I found your channel. I say vaguely recall, because I banged my head many times in the course of my crazy life. I used to build huge ramps and jump my bicycle Evel Knievel style! I easily crashed more times than he did! (ugh) When I got older, I jumped a Harley motorcycle so far and so high, that it broke in two when I landed! When other kids were indoors playing Pac Man, and Space Invaders, I was flying over their houses! I have continued my dangerous ways even today at the age of 64. In fact, I have almost been killed three times since last November. Anyway, I'll stop there, so I don't create my own KZbin channel within yours. Hah! Soooo, why do I feel guilty? It's because, since I told you that you saved my life, you have been cranking out videos everyday! Wow! Thanks! I'm touched, but please don't work yourself to death. I NEED YOU!!!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I feel like our relationship has really changed in the last few days 😅 I could swear it wasn’t long ago you were telling me not to quit my day job or something. Haha. From the sounds of things, you probably *should* have your own channel. I mean, I’ve never jumped a bike over anyone’s house. Not even once!

[@steveash9831]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Hilarious! Yeah. Our disturbing sense of humor really compliment each other. I think a future "Bad Ash Garage" KZbin channel could be a great way to drive a large audience insane! That would be a great medicine for me!

[@Viktorrhansen]

all i heard was install 3 pedal and pistol handle through hole in floor!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Something like that 😅

[@bigwrenchtech]

Yeah, I caught that too.🤣🤣🤣

[@timrayburn2461]

Excelant video !

[@brianandglendaharkin9457]

Drive a manual 😀. But I love the T /Fight 👍🏻🇦🇺💯⛽️.

[@blau325]

The slot is to keep the throttle from being stuck open if the transmission lever is stuck back.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. Makes perfect sense.

[@cashthestampede6629]

I found the fix! Coan manual valvebody

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Sure, but are you going to put those in your daily driver, your work truck, and grandma’s Imperial? Lol.

[@cashthestampede6629]

@@DeadDodgeGarage most definitely! I drove my 69 3 times a week with one and drive all the way to carlisle with it. Granny shifting and not double cutching! lol

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

And for all of these reasons and more, I go with a FWD Manual shift valve body... Hahahahaha... ;)

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Science

[@MyronBuss]

Manual valve bodies are for people that can't figure their linkage out!

[@knight0334]

There is another kickdown delete mod.. ....a manual valve body for the Torqueflite.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Well, yeah.

[@MyronBuss]

Fool!

[@bigwrenchtech]

Sorry I'm late, Doing motorcycle And road runner things

[@terryschnereger8531]

Im at the end of my shift ⚙️

[@JohnShackelford-k2l]

1978 B200 327 727 391rear Holley 600 4 barrel aluminum intake. EMINEM HOSPITAL DR DRE ORIGINAL INTERIOR 1.98 int 1.60 exh 😊

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I am… confused. Lol.

[@JohnShackelford-k2l]

@DeadDodgeGarage yes Chevy & Ford have same parts.

[@MyronBuss]

327 with a 727?