What's Wrong With This 1973 Dodge Challenger? Electrical Gremlins, Big Block Tuning Tech, And More

[@deansutherland992]

I enjoyed this almost as much as Lord of the Rings. And to be fair, Rings had a bigger budget. Tks.

[@indianaslim4971]

I'm retired now but I started out as a bodyman, enjoyed everything about it, moved to wrenching, later to a machine shop rebuilding cyl. heads, enjoyed it all EXCEPT electrical problems, they always end up with you under the dash with the rocker panel in the small of your back and your head and neck in an unhealthy position.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Probably why my neck is so screwed up honestly 😅 I enjoy the challenge. I don’t enjoy the working conditions at times.

[@toddmesecar9558]

Yeah it really isnt good when you have neck vertibra fusion

[@toddmesecar9558]

But with some of your tricks you taught me I was able to get everything figured out in 75 Duster with only a meter and test light. Almost nothing electrical except ignition was not working and even that was played with and had a jumper wire in the starter relay circuit to power it up because of all the debocle

[@NickiesAdventureChannel]

Man I just found this channel about 12 hours ago …. Not much has been done in the last 12 hours 😂 glued to my screen 😂 ahhh well totally worth being in the dog house all night Regards from uk 🇬🇧

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Haaahaha. Thanks!

[@harrywalker968]

@@DeadDodgeGarage problem with not running rite.. is that holley..i have a 340 r/t 73.. stiker says holley equiped.. nope, its getting an edelbrock for now, then a thermoquad.. ausie.. sat in shed for 12 yrs as the laws in s.a. adelaide, are.'' 100% original''.. ???... it was dark green met. , now its sublime.. defect with paint. 100% original, are they fkn mad.??

[@harrywalker968]

@@DeadDodgeGarage sounds like timing, or sht leads.. check for continuity between the fan & exhaust..

[@harrywalker968]

@@DeadDodgeGarage ngk , or ac delco.. champion are cheap, dont last..i knew that back in 1970.. still the same..a thermoquad will flow 800cfm. this is why all the drag guys used them, then big pharma holley came along..

[@harrywalker968]

@@DeadDodgeGarage 5v fuel resistor.. i used a mustang one. closest i could find..

[@snakeskinproductions7500]

When I first started driving (1975) My first car was my moms 71 Demon (225 flavor) after that I owned a 68, 318 Cuda and my pride and joy 1970 Charger RT. Since then I have pretty much been a Bowtie guy. Since following Uncle Tony which led me to you (better IMO) I have nostalgically looked back at those days with joy. Love how you splain things. Thanks for having one of the best Mopar channel's on the tube. Signed, A Chevy guy...😆

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you! We don’t judge Chevy guys around here 😅

[@NJCarCruise]

thanks for the inspiration in getting my '74 Challenger running again

[@peterparsons7141]

First thing I did on my 1972 Plymouth Satellite was, flat black the front grill. Probably on the way home from picking up the car in 1979. As you know They came with the metal grey coloured plastic with a small coloured piece in the middle and painting the grill black immediately changed the character of the car. Is that a 340 You got in that Pete ? Nope that’s a can of flat black and some buckets out of a Sport Duster ! It’s the shape of the front bumper, and the lack of any badging on the 1972 Satellites that I like best. I prefer a sleeper, clean lines and minimal badge appearance on all my rides. All GO and NO show helps keep a man out of trouble. The more I watch your channel the more I am motivated to reacquire an Early 70’s. I just saw a really nice in molested 1974 dodge charger400 Magnum, complete and perfect. It was for sale because they didn’t have storage. One of the last of the Mopars that I liked, I’m just not a charger guy. Excellent video, and a huge public service for MOPAR owners.

[@68PlymouthPat]

Same NGKs im running in my 440! Love them! Secondly, I was specifically told to avoid LEDs in both front turn/park lights and tail lights because they don’t draw enough and cause flasher issues. Have to install 2 electronic LED flashers for proper signal functions. Had my friend not told me this I would have been on the same goose chase! Mopar on! 🤘🏻

[@ReimundCabel-c8c]

Good education on the dash wiring of this 1973 Challenger. My friend,also a Jamie,worked on Ralph’s 1971 Challenger and had “not fun”with that dash wiring!

[@frnkbooth6871]

Passing along for WIW. The rocker arms are stamped, as we all know. Sometimes the tip of the rocker at the pushrod end will slightly split allowing the valve to not have the proper lift because of the additional clearance. (Like a bad cam lobe) I bought a 73, 340 with a horrible backfire. The pushrod had actually worked all the way through the rocker end stopping the valve from opening. Worth a check to make sure the rocker shaft is torqued correctly and all valves are operating at the same lift amount.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’m well familiar with pushrods punching through. Have fixed that several times. The reason I am not looking there is because this issue existed both before and after I personally replaced the head gaskets on this engine. All rockers, push rods, valve springs were in good shape at that time.

[@toddmesecar9558]

Jamie you rock man, you have become the Mopar whisperer!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you Todd!

[@ashiehakoto1490]

I like the way you think. you're very good at diagnosing things accurately just by observing and seeing what you see, hear, and feel, and have an idea what to look for and where. and your problem solving method makes sense to me because I use something similar.

[@davidbisnette7673]

Thanks for all the electrical teachings , never gets old and helps lots

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Happy to do it!

[@davidbisnette7673]

@@DeadDodgeGarage awesome job , keeps me up against the tv so I don’t miss anything

[@morelanmn]

A joy to watch. This may be a rewatch again soon.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!

[@billiardballs]

Another great video. It's fun watching you untangle all of the conditions that cause one problem.

[@mb2stroke816]

I'm great full for your wealth of electrical knowledge and experience! My 70 barracuda electrical is all original and still working good, now I know what to protect it and make it better.

[@CarTech1976]

AWESOME!!! Great video as always!!!

[@BigBoxDodge2020]

Thanks for taking the time to put these videos together. You definitely have a lot of knowledge about carburetor and timing-tune up stuff. That I never even thought of. Many years ago my brother bought a brand new Edelbrock 4 barrel carburetor for the Dodge W 200 Power Wagon I have, And for many years the truck would fall on its face when you stood on the gas, So about 15 years ago I checked out the throttle linkage to the carburetor and noticed the secondary's were opening at about a quarter of the throttle, and it came from the factory that way. Once I re-bent the linkage, the truck would get-up-and-go. That's the same engine I rebuilt around 1982. Still runs great.

[@joshjesch6000]

I was very intrigued with this car when you showed us the video when you happened to find it in primer with slotted mag wheels and told us it was your old car. The pictures you showed of it painted yellow I thought were really cool. I was curious what ever happened to it. Awesome video again as usual.

[@Rielyjones85]

Recently discovered your channel. Very much enjoyed your videos I have seen so far. I look forward to watching many more. Cheers from Australia.

[@davidjones5729]

Great video Jamie. Your content is always relevant to the stuff I'm working on to keep my 70 Challenger running. I'm learning a lot from you. Thank you!

[@Mclovingarage]

What a transformation! That exhaust note toward the end when it was tuned was excellent! Sure wish I was patient enough to be good at wiring… that’s a skill I am definitely jealous of.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s my super power 😅 I’ll share it as much as I can.

[@MikeTheSlacker]

look where my hand was. Great video of a wiring nightmare. Thanks

[@RandallSoong-pp7ih]

Great job Jamie. Really appreciate the wiring/electrical. She’s a Beauty. Thank you!

[@007fredh]

Absolutely another killer vid Jamie. I’m so glued to your videos that I’m not getting enough done in my own life.😳 😂.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused 😅

[@leonardhirtle3645]

Aaaaaand that is why I always hated wiring. Great video Jamie.

[@cowthedestroyer]

hour+ video count me in. big block stuff is fun. Remind me again to buy a big block

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It’s so much bigger than a slant six

[@4339jk]

I fixed my belt squeaks finally by taking them off and run a heavy folded piece emery cloth in the crank pulley grooves while idling the engine. You will also notice how whisper quiet these engine are without the fan noise...

[@OlderNotNecesarilyWiser]

What a really beautiful car, you sure made a difference in the way it runs!

[@brianl6798]

I retract the blown cylinder head gasket diagnosis on this car... not consistent enough... but certainly possible. Fouled plugs.. no. That makes no sense although that was some rich. Richy Rich rich... yikes. That stupid pickup and electrical gremlins... nailed it. Keep it up

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The fouled plugs were the cause of a lot of the back firing and terrible high rpm breakup. Just plugs and fixing idle mixtures made a *huge* difference. But the various distributor fixes and ignition voltage got us where we are now. Much better!

[@almightyironhead25]

Another awesome episode brother!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Thank you!

[@almightyironhead25]

@@DeadDodgeGarage keep up the good work, brother. We need more guys like you who have a love for the classics and for Mopar muscle. I was born, raised, and live in detroit and I've always been a Mopar guy since I was old enough to remember the old man wrenching on his 69 roadrunner. There's not alot of these classic left in the world anymore. We need to resurrect and restore all these awesome machines to their original glory. Thanks again, bro.

[@musclecarmitch908]

Cool car! Even cooler story! Its always great to hear a cars story and know it's history!👍

[@soxgopro5552]

I had an orange 72" Challenger back in the 90's. It was an original 340 automatic but had a 440 4-speed when I bought it....🎶 meeemories, misty water colored meeemories...🎶

[@romannumeral5547]

Belt squeal is the best indicator of engine performance 😁. Some things are just obvious. 😂 Great job Jamie. Your customer is lucky to have you working on his car.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

He seemed pretty pleased with the result - except for the damn fuel gauge / sending unit issue.

[@Legacy_Lou]

New video. Nice!! Keep em coming brother 😎

[@Grandadsjunk]

By the time you finish with this car it will be better than brand new electrics can be a massive pain in the butt when multiple things are going wrong you did very well good job

[@WhiteTrashMotorsports]

NGK the only plug I will install in my engines

[@BigEightiesNewWave]

My Ford Focus 2002 replacement NGK coil was made in Mexico, so that is a plus to me that it was not made in China! My car was made in Hermosillo, MX Plant coming up on 24 YEARS ago

[@66balsam]

My first car was a 73 Cuda back in 79, loved the heck outta that car. Traded it on my 66 Charger in 85, still have the fastback, wish I could have both

[@K4TORG412]

as a owner of a 72 challenger 440 a727 ralley (originally a 340 with a 3speed manual) myself, I WANT MORE OF THIS ;)

[@greghansard357]

Good job Jaime. Beware the mission creep.

[@idaholineman5788]

Just used my power probe today actually. One of my favorite tools by far. So darn handy. Everyone should own one

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Agreed!

[@cbobmonster]

Nice work fighting that challenger beautiful car great video

[@danmoffia8692]

Crazy small world isn't it amazing how it runs full circle. ❤😮😮

[@Viktorrhansen]

what the exhaust on this thing sounds awesome!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Dual 2 1/2" pipes off of long tube headers with glass packs and factory tips! It sounds awesome. But I do miss the side dumps...

[@robertwest3093]

Weld Draglites look good on everything.

[@ricksaint2000]

Thank you Jamie

[@VincenzoPentangeli]

A mechanic that has a sweet spot for electrical problems is rare.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I know it. That’s pretty much why starting the channel had to be a good idea - to teach others.

[@Coronetguy]

Can’t wait to put you in your happy place next month!!! I’m hoping for same outcome on the gauges!!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Me too. Haha. Looking forward to it.

[@gunjiweber42]

Pretty fun video. I dig the 73 Challenger.

[@michaelnault5905]

The guy that owns that car did good to follow the rainbow back to you. No way I could even remember all those chase downs.

[@HeckyReckyOfficial]

Mechanical flashers need the current draw of the incandescent bulb to heat the thermostatic switch inside them and cause the contact to break. Once broken, the circuit immediately begins to cool- closing the circuit and illuminating the bulbs until the heat causes the circuit to break again. AN LED BULB WILL NEVER DRAW THE REQUISITE CURRENT and so the mechanical flasher will never work.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeahhhhh, that’s why I installed an electronic flasher brother. And it still didn’t work, so… believe it or not, I have years and years of experience with LED bulbs, flashers, and lighting and other issues. That’s why I make these videos - to share that experience with others. Thanks.

[@Martin.Wilson]

Well, I guess you got politely told off. That'll teach you not to try and be helpful. LOL

[@HeckyReckyOfficial]

@@Martin.Wilson I don't think he told me off. Everyone is on the same side here we're just trying to fix things.

[@MidnightOilsRestoration]

With all new technologies there is a learning curve 100%. About 5 years ago I picked up a Harley that someone had customized. It had a few modifications that created somewhat of a dragger bike…and then ended up getting some minor cosmetic damage. It was for sale (reasonably priced) and I knew the repairs would be simple fiberglass work and an overall fresh paint…once it was back together it would be ready to sell, nothing new🤷🏻‍♂️. So I bought it and jumped right into that plan. I started taking the back end apart-it had a single taillight in the lower rear section of each saddlebag which were separated by the rear fender. I didn’t think much of it and the entire bike was taken apart for the paint process. When I put everything back together I realized that each of those lights had 3 functions; running light/brake light/ & turn signal indicator light for its respective side-and they were LED’s 🤔 which I had never messed with. I ran wires to each light from the factory harness of course and the lights worked.. but you could Barely see them when they were on, blinking, braking etc. and all of the functions were right-just not adequate. For almost a week I was stumped about what I was missing! Well, I finally found two little rectangular boxes that said “street magic” on them (one was red-one was blue). Those boxes were controllers for the LED functions. All if those wires I had ran to the lights were supposed to be ran to the controller and the controller box had little small diameter wires that ran to the lights. So I got all of that switched correctly.. and only about 70% worked. I finally and painfully figured out that one of the boxes had a circuit inside it that had gone bad; I about went crazy over thinking I had something wrong. One whole side worked perfectly the other side worked somewhat..one little circuit within that box had become faulty. Once the one box was replaced everything worked perfectly-and the lights were very bright and impressive as they were supposed to be. I learned a lot about LED’s because of that situation and it was brutal at that time but after that…I have used them many times, they are easy to use, and they give so much freedom as far as placement, potential amount you can use, and the cost… once you get comfortable with them-they are definitely a win! Less heat, less draw, less cost, etc. The thing is-if not for that bike I would’ve avoided even trying LED’s lol. You know how new things can be.. scary 😅!

[@OldSchoolCrank]

Nothings perfect Jaime but you got the engine to a good place. Good work on the voltage problem.

[@pcbullets8726]

It must have been weird working on this after so many years. Pretty awesome car, even if it does need some work. The sure grip will make this even more fun. The rally hood does rule!

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It was weird, I had many flash backs. It is a much better car in many ways, and yet… also not. Haha. I can confirm, the fun level has improved drastically!

[@lpmorify]

I just recently bought a power probe. I'm loving the long leads.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah. And then they give you that extension, just in case you’re working on a city bus. Haha.

[@lpmorify]

@@DeadDodgeGarage to reach the bow lights on the titantic....🤣🤣🤣🤣

[@davidlewis2681]

Despite all her present issues shes a Beauty...!!! Luvit!!

[@bullwag1978]

I watched the driving part of the neato Mitsu-challenger, it was fun

[@gertv6777]

Theres a meme out there that shows a fluke meter and on the screen it says “good luck” so true with electrics

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oof 😅

[@doublebackagain4311]

That black beauty is officially 'High Maintenance'

[@mopartron3030]

I've had great results with LED bulbs on my classic Mopars, just make sure to either wire in a resistor or keep at least one bulb in the circuit a conventional incandescent type.

[@JaughnDough]

LEDs are a great idea. Vastly, vastly better than old fashioned bulbs. I have a full LED conversion inside and out on my '93 D250 and I love it. Very worthwhile upgrade and I have zero regrets about. As long as you get LED flashers or load resistors for the signal bulbs, you're fine. Or you can get the fancy bulbs with the built in circuitry to make them play nice with the normal flasher. No need for headlight relays with LEDs since they draw no current to speak of. Get Auxitos. They are good quality bulbs. I've had mine in the truck for 14 months now, and zero issues. I drive exclusively at night, so they get used all the time.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

LEDs look wrong. I completely disagree that they are “vastly” better. I tried an electronic flasher. Those front amber LED were just trash, straight up the bright section would not light up unless the running lights were on, and they wouldn’t blink. Period.

[@clintpreisinger1864]

Power probes are awesome, they’re fancy continuity testers

[@The_Painter31]

@Jamie, Power Valves can blow out if backfires thru the carb happen more than about 2-3 times. Just looking at the air horn the carb is too rich or its choke soot. I noticed your new plugs are extended tips and that should help, if it idles more often those will help and a heat range higher will too. I prefer the tube type squirters and 31/35's

[@minnesotatomcat]

I had 2 different original ammeters go bad on old dodge trucks. Both did the same thing, where the posts go into that copper or brass plate or whatever it is that solder or whatever originally holds the post in failed and was loose in there and started arcing out. One would just straight kill all power, the other still allowed the truck to run fine but almost started on fire on me. It got so hot it actually melted the plastic housing that holds the gauges to where the new gauge I installed didn’t even sit in the right place anymore and I had to do some fancy shimming so it didn’t look all derpy.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I’ll be damned. I’ve never seen that, yet…

[@72roadrunnergtx]

An attempt in the late seventies trucks to run plastic cluster frames. Any heat build-up at all distorted the ammeter mounting, loosening the ammeter stud head to bus connection, even more heat. Not the same construction as the earlier passenger cars. Matter of fact the so called “MAD Electrical” article everyone likes to promote is really about the later truck ammeter issue.

[@marcbrown6391]

Three things, 1. I remembered the screw grounding the front socket before you mentioned it because of your past video. 2. LED bulbs screw up everything from cars to pinball machines if they didn’t originally come with them. 3. Everyone preaches timing before messing with the carb. Why did you go carb first? I get that you knew there were carb issues. Is the timing first approach more for amateurs? As far as pinging, someone once said it sounds like rocks in a coffee can. I agree with that, but do they still have coffee cans to know what that would sound like?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

I went idle mixtures first because it was billowing black smoke when it got here and I knew there was something very, very wrong. I then knew it had a dead cylinder from checking exhaust temps, and found nasty, fouled plugs due to that idle setting. With those two issues corrected, it ran much better. My first actual tuning move was the distributor timing curve. That sounds like a pretty good description to me, but yeah… I can almost guarantee today’s teens don’t remember metal coffee cans. Haha.

[@AWAYTODOIT]

Jamie, were you laboring on Labor Day? WT hey? Another great video. Just go easy on us E body lovers. 😅

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeah I was like dead for three days so I didn’t have much choice but to get some laboring done.

[@AWAYTODOIT]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Great lessons in deductive (Mopar) reasoning. I hope my electrical issues are as minor as they seem.......

[@Martin.Wilson]

Stopped this at 7:11 to throw my hat in the ring. My guess for the engine problem is timing/distributor. My experience is more with GMs, but anytime an engine was backfiring through the carb it was usually the timing or the distributor post itself.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You are not wrong on distributor issues! But most of the constant, major fireballs were solved by replacing the fouled plugs.

[@Martin.Wilson]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Back in the day, my muscle was a '68 Firechicken, 400 H/O. I cut a lot of corners on that bad boy, but the one thing I indulged in was a complete Accel ignition system....distributor, plugs wires and coil etc. Never regretted it for a second.

[@tdlvsabs]

if the leds have an 1156 stryle pin setup as you mentioned they will not light up if in backwards. led's only work one way unlike regular bulbs that will work if the pos and neg are reversed. i had this problem in my mustang

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The pin style I'm talking about is not 1156, I think they are 2357s but I could be wrong on the number. Neither 1156 nor 1157 can be installed incorrectly. But it's totally possible with the side marker / dash bulbs. Been there...

[@rboynton8671]

When I did the LED conversion I had the same problem. I had to install an LED flasher that had an external black ground wire. I then found the flashers did not work when the headlights were on. Replaced the rear bulbs with OE style bulbs to resolve that. Ugh.

[@almightyironhead25]

Lol... he said "grab the body of the squirter"... get it... get it... 😅😅😂😅 Nevermind.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice, nice

[@almightyironhead25]

@@DeadDodgeGarage 😆 good shit, bro. Love the channel. I'm even thinking about dropping a few bucks to join and become a member. Your knowledge of Mopar is by far the best I've seen so far.

[@MoparJimmy]

Beautiful car, yellow or black. That was the issue I was having with my fusible link.

[@manguy831]

Videos like this make me appreciate the past owner for completely obliterating the wiring in my Duster. If not a safety hazard, it was eventually going to be a money hazard! So I installed a complete American Autowire harness and upgraded the charging system. I know in the future I’ll be coming back to this video for a new project so for NOW I’ll enjoy this video instead of stressing over it😅

[@blown_bacon9487]

Very informative as usual. I don’t ever use connectors with plastic insulation any more. I buy plain and heatshrink. Did you know they make a butt connector with 2 different sizes on each end like a 12-14? Maybe I saw it on your channel?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yep. The plastic sucks. I need to find a good source for the bare ones so I don’t have to make my own. No, haven’t seen that! That would be a real asset, going to have to keep my eyes out for those.

[@PlymouthOnPlywood]

I have gradually learned auto electric fighting my own gremlins. I have learned to absolutely loathe fusible links. I don’t know if it’s “correct” but I eliminated all of them on my 93’ W250 12v using blue sea marine fuse blocks with maxi and midi fuses. There is a chart that shows what size link equates to what size fuse. Many of that truck’s issues went away with them. OnlyI time will tell if I resort to it on the Valiant or A100. I’m not suggesting you or anyone else do it, especially on a classic that’s not yours. Just throwing ideas out there. My truck hasn’t burnt to the ground… yet.

[@25Soupy]

The original yellow with black stripes was cool and putting the 4 gauge wood grain Rallye gauge would be great put back in.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That’s what I told him. Haha. Maybe one day.

[@glenbo2464]

Man that steering is crazy ! I hate fighting the wheel in car to keep it on the road !

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It went for an alignment today! I’m confident it’s much better now.

[@codyhollinger6531]

On the vacuum advance pod. I make shims to limit the travel of the mechanism. There, by limiting the advance available. I just glue them in with silicone .016 = 2 degrees.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Nice! That’s clever. I once limited one with a couple dabs of weld.

[@watchman11000]

Tail light panel needs to be argent, looks like ass painted body color. Great job troubleshooting and cobbling the fixes. Just the way I would have done it. You’re absolutely right about constantly things to fix with classic cars, seems never ending sometimes. Just cobble it and enjoy. 🤣

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeah I wouldn’t have done it body color. When I owned the car and it was yellow, the argent looked like garbage anyway so I did the tail panel and the entire grille and grille surround in semi flat black (except the chrome grille trim and headlight rings.) That was a sweet look. Now that it is black, I would put it back to argent.

[@Moondog66602]

An hour of black Challenger content? He'll yeah

[@timtaylor9080]

I thought there was too much timing into it. Try this. Inside the vacuum advance the is an adjustment. Remove the vacuum hose and take a 1/8" hex or alan wrench into the vacuum advance. Back out the alan or hex screw a half a turn and check your total advance numbers again. Adjust again as needed. Backing it out reduces total timing. The factory ignition is a good one. Oh and check the coil resistance numbers. If they're off replace. Note the most expensive coil at the store will likely be good number. Don't ask how I know. Good luck

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

So… did you watch the video? When I explained how that pod is adjusted, and discussed adjusting it twice? I understand it’s a long video, but if you’re going to try to help me… we kinda need to understand on what level we’re standing. The screw does not change the amount of vacuum advance, it only changes the tension on the spring controlling that advance. It will change the number of degrees you see in various situations, but it does not physically limit the advance in any way. That’s a brand new coil. All other ignition components are also brand new. Thanks.

[@jkinghar]

Ha ha, Siren Head singing the Westminster Chimes was not on my bingo card this Sunday morning, but here we are.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

😂

[@markwagener8118]

Very cool machine

[@gordonwelcher9598]

The fusible link has a special insulation that stays in place when the wire inside melts. This helps to prevent it from shorting to other wires. Ordinary wire is not the best thing to use for a fusible link.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That… wasn’t ordinary wire. It was a fusible link. I would never suggest that ordinary wire should be used in place of a fusible link.

[@gordonwelcher9598]

@@DeadDodgeGarage I just wanted to make that clear. I have seen other people use ordinary wire.

[@Six4691]

To drive a vehicle by counter steering is tuff, never mind a powerful big block!

[@peacemaker6156]

I highly recommend 100 octane low lead airplane gas. My valves started sticking and popping on pump gas. That airplane gas fixed real good.

[@romuluscreative]

I actually love this car

[@BurchellAtTheWharf]

7:11 fireing order is off

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Yeahhhh it wasn’t though

[@BurchellAtTheWharf]

@DeadDodgeGarage I'm more of a diesel dude, because I can't ever get the firing order or timing right 😆

[@sarahmathias9463]

i don't remember david byrne putting those lyrics into once in a lifetime! 😂

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Are you sure?! I swear that’s how it went

[@jeremywilson4326]

21 : 53 ,,,, you slightly braged on it . Things seem to always mess up when you brag on it . But your good man . Thanks man .

[@is3180]

Great looking car...💪✌️

[@barrycuda3769]

Seeing those '73 , '74 taillights again, reminds me of how good they look , IMO much better looking than the earlier ones , I do think the 1970 grille is the nicest, but that '73 sad mouth, when it is blacked out is a big improvement , and looks quite ok. I've thought I'd like to use LED bulbs in both of my Valiants taillights, just for more brightness, would I encounter a problem with that?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

It depends on the type of bulb. Some require additional resistors or a special LED compatible flasher. Some drop in and work with no problem. And some, like the bulbs that were in this car, refuse to work correctly no matter what you do. Personally, I like stock type bulbs for the look. But I definitely get wanting bright brake lights.

[@barrycuda3769]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks.

[@packatk7431]

May be sacrilege to speak of GM here but I have my own rabbit hole that's similar to this possession your exercising. My '72 Buick Skylark likes to backfire as I accelerate thru to second gear... was running rich, adjusted carburetor... still back fire... chased various vacuum leaks (bent rigid fuel line in the process, don't ask)... still backfired... sea foam to remove excess carbon build up... still back-fired... replaced clogged PCV valve... still back-fired... new plugs, plug wires, coil... every step of the way it's improved drive-ability but it still doesn't like accelerating thru to second gear without a back-fire... I'm on to timing and possible distributor replacement. I'm here to tell you your videos have kept me on the path because I know I'm not the only one dealing with gremlins, and to say thank you.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

You’ll get it! Keep on it! Happy to help, and I’m not joking when I say I actually like Buicks. Thanks.

[@minnesotatomcat]

Have you checked the valves at all? Almost sounds like an intake valve not sealing or not closing all the way.

[@packatk7431]

@minnesotatomcat got the car in an "unmaintained" state. Everything I've done so far has been least invasive to most... if distributor/ timing doesn't resolve the problem next will be replacing the stock 2 jet rochester carb and intake manifold with a quadrajet. I may dive into the valves over winter... we'll see where it goes. I appreciate the advice.

[@resistanceisfutile]

I have a habit of using a multimeter for chasing electrical gremlins, but when working in cramped confines, I can see some advantages to flipping a thumb switch and imediately having either power or ground. Do you have a link for the specific Power Probe you were using?

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Oh yeah. The power probe is the best. The volt meter part of it is not as precise, but it gets the job done. I buy them off of the Cornwell truck, so I don’t have a link. I think this one is the Power Probe III. I seem to recall the IV is fancier to an unnecessary degree.

[@resistanceisfutile]

@@DeadDodgeGarage Thanks for the model name. Oddly enough, NAPA has them $120, which was less than Harbor Freight. If someone really wants to roll the dice, there’s a sort of knockoff on TEMU for $13. I’m heading over to NAPA.

[@lexalford358]

This makes me miss my 71 challenger I built a newer 318 engine for it and put a big camshaft in it it made for a loping engine that sounded great and it would wave bye bye if the hood was up I took it drag racing at a full quarter mile strip and it ran a 12.3 second pass on street tires with just a little spin on the line not bad for a little 318 engine and new tread on it I had done the offset shackle and a B body rear housing to get the widest tires possible under the back and everything I could do to make it launch off the line with no wheels spin automatic 727 one day a guy offered me to much money and it needed a lot more work at the time still miss it I would start it up just to hear it idol but with the amount of transmission fluid under it was concerning and I was starting a new business at that time and the stack of hundreds was just to much temptation for me I had reworked everything under the dash after the smoke genies came out one day the alternator gauge was the center of that mess new wires all thicker than factory was my solution

[@biastv1234]

So , normal 50 year old car things . Great job

[@stevenbean9706]

i use a magnet to pull the squirter out usually put a rag in the carb too just in case it falls in

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

The screw would be magnetic, but… is the squirter not aluminum? This one was sitting in my magnetic tray for months and I could swear it didn’t stick to it. But now you’re making me question my entire life

[@williamquinones2870]

A Jamie I had a 302 with a 750 vacuum secondary and I put a 50cc accelerator pump on it using the smallest suggested discharge nozzle but the extended ones and look out that works real good also I use the Alcohol Carburetors accelerator pump diaphragm and the discharge nozzle screw also I had used the accelerator pump cam that extended the shot I don't see why a similar setup wouldn't work on a 400 ci engine Just so that you know I had if I remember correctly a Comp Cam .512 lift 270°Duration and even though you don't like Comp Cam my car and a few friends of mine enjoyed the performance we got out of them

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Comps used to be just fine. They’re not just fine anymore.

[@williamquinones2870]

@DeadDodgeGarage I'll tell you what doing those supply side upgrades on a Holley by using the Alcohol Holley parts sure doesn't hurt it give it a shot next time those bits are lying around especially the extended nozzle accelerator pump discharge by using the extra capacity of the 50cc and the smaller of the suggested discharge nozzles you don't have it dribbling into the carb it looks more like a mini pressurized hose stream I believe that it has better way of introducing that extra fuel

[@SchoolforHackers]

Carburetor: Shoots flames Jamie: Lays his hand on it and blips the gas 💀

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Fortune favors the bold! And sometimes it singes their fingertips

[@jasonnelson6624]

That's how you work a mechanical hand warmer. 😂

[@rustypliers74]

I just love Challengers

[@fabiolas4]

The white car in the beginning, is that a Chrysler Cordova or a Dodge Magnum??? I like that body style.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

That is a one year 1979 Chrysler 300. It is a Fancy Cordoba (TM)

[@fabiolas4]

@@DeadDodgeGarage That's a piece you don't see every day! Nice ride!

[@ACEMIDNIGHT102]

48:50 At least you put in a factory cluster and made it work. I’m always bummed when I see non functional clusters with random aftermarket gauges in the car

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Agreed…

[@MidnightOilsRestoration]

That’s a nice car-very classy and timeless in black. The wheels contrast off of the black and look tough. The interior looks great..the pistol grip is the perfect accessory there-in my opinion that cherry sits on top of the one option that makes that car/combo worthy of inclusion at the table with its older siblings! I was impressed by how well it performed; it runs great…well it does now anyways😂(props on the magic brother👏👏👏)! That car is a short list away from being a truly complete package of fun. By the way, 👆that is the handling and wiring status of almost every Mopar I own or work on 😅-(just a lil’ sketchy👌)! It would be nice if someone offered a kit that had all of the various connectors and terminals Mopar used in the original wiring harnesses. That way you could make any needed alterations as you go instead of buying each harness and hacking into it. Obviously those items are available or harnesses wouldn’t be 😂.. but I don’t see too much advertisement for that kind of stuff-(trade secret). It takes digging and time to find those connections lol. Enjoy your weekend brother.

[@DeadDodgeGarage]

Haaaahaha. Ouch. Yeah, even I am constantly scrounging for used stuff and random bits from other kits, or collections of random bits dug out of ancient dealerships to find correct connectors. It’s inconvenient.