Delboy's Garage, Simple Skills, # Helicoil

[@timmasonguitar]

As an apprentice industrial engineer, one of my jobs was to fit helicoils to certain brand new aluminium machine parts, even though they were already threaded, due to the helicoil being stronger than the original thread.

[@Scoodee17]

Wow that’s mad

[@kristophervanvarenberg526]

Wow, that's awesome!

[@nigelbush7255]

Del I think your the only person that shows how to do this stuff , it’s gold mate thank you 🙏

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome mate, glad you enjoyed it!

[@Ixecube1337]

These simple skills video's are already coming in handy. I've recently modified my exhaust thanks to the helpful tips from the simple skills hacksaw video, made a nice clean straight line following the tips in the video. Thanks for another video, they are very straight forward and informative :)

[@Moonfleet41]

+Jasper Thanks mate, so glad it could help you!

[@dreadknot2238]

the tool that drive the helicoil you got is nice it help to square into the threaded hole. I did a practice one i was new first time using helicoil. the drive tool with the red handle that's came with the kit , im sure you seen it, some how it caused the helicoil not to seat in correctly . if you are new take your time to drive the helicoil that is the most crucial part of the installation because if it mess up it difficult to remove it. thanks .

[@ChrisDalvikBxl]

I recently bought a jig saw and the way you attatch the blade is by screwing a casing over it to hold it in place. This casing is hold by two screws. I didn't tight the screw too hard and all of a sudden I felt the bolt giving away. I used your simple skills from another video of how to cut a bolt to desired length! It really helpen me! Thanks for these lovely little videos! Ride safe

[@Moonfleet41]

+Chris Dalvik Hi Chris, thats great to hear mate, we love to know that the videos have helped out... glad you sorted it buddy.. all the best.. Del.

[@andydevonshire4991]

Thanks Delboy and Penny for a clear and concise video. I've just managed to strip a thread in a blind hole while tinkering in the garage while on lockdown. Was toying with the idea of re-threading with a bigger size but this looks to be a much better solution.

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome Andy, hope you can get it fixed mate..

[@davidvanniekerk3813]

Dankie/ Merci Delboy's Garage. I've learn a lot. The motorbike shop in Paarl has striped the head - bolt. I was using the bike for 2yrs. Now I've discovered it. Only 3 of the 4 head-bolt was used. The helicoil kit cost ZAR220.00 (+/- L11.00), but our kit is much more basic, than the one you use in Albion (England) . I'll have to look for more expensive kit. Thank you 4 the video.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you for your message David, hope you can get it fixed!

[@williegallagher2124]

Thanks for the video respect from Ireland.

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@aslamsalie6099]

Thank you for a well presented talk with all the other associated bits of useful advice. Cape Town, SA

[@Moonfleet41]

Glad it was helpful!

[@beebeer]

I'd never heard of a helicoil, now I have. Learn something new everyday! I'm finding your channel very informative. Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

+beebeer54 Thanks buddy, im glad you enjoy the videos.. Del.

[@750spud]

Great stuff D & P, no crap, just straight to the point and easy to follow. Cheers as always

[@Moonfleet41]

+750spud Thank you Spud, simple stuff aye?!

[@lsforce]

Helicoils saved my arse multiple times, before I learnt to use 1/4 tools instead of 1/2 tools on the motorcycle... And of course before I bought myself several torque wrenches... Also I love to put some thread lock before I insert the helicoil...

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ludmil Stamboliyski Hi Ludmil, you can threadlock them, but its rare that they will wind themselves out..!

[@daxc1972]

Just learned this lesson replacing primary cover on my Harley. Thought I could hand tighten the bolts with my built in hand torque of my right hand. Big mistake.

[@kristophervanvarenberg526]

Your videos are so helpful mate! Thank you!

[@Moonfleet41]

Most welcome, glad you enjoyed it!

[@smilinkyle]

Very helpful. Nicely taught.

[@MrVulcan10]

Del, Thanks for putting the time into making these Simple Skills videos. They are straight forward and useful.

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy, glad you enjoy and will keep 'em coming!

[@bobbybarrett7477]

You sir are a wizard. Thanks for video. Very helpful. Thanks!

[@Moonfleet41]

Thank you very much, much appreciated!

[@8Cheddar8]

I had an exhaust leak once, used a helicoil, but the instruction from the kit did not say a thing about as how far I had to screw it in. Anyways, got it almost to the end of the hole and it worked wonders. Great video, keep it up.

[@Moonfleet41]

+DoppioArcobalen0 Yeah some of the instructions are a bit vague, but as long as you bury it leaving the hole flush its fine..

[@motolabdenver]

Big fan- thanks for all the videos- I play them for new mechanics here

[@Moonfleet41]

Wow, thank you for your kind words of support, we're honoured to be of help!

[@yippie21]

Del, I remembered this video today when I stripped a bolt on a differential cover on my Jeep. All the others took torque but one let go. So I watch your vid again.. go to store and buy kit. Didn't have proper tool for driving the bit to grind new teeth.. did my best with lock pliers. Though I was doing well, up until it snapped. the cutting bit snapped two threads. Next time I'll go buy the right tool for it, but I didn't know. Never got to the coil part. Also, my kit didn't come with the outer tube to hold the coil like yours did... so I don't even know if it would have worked. Thanks though.. I never would have tried it at all had I not seen this how-to.

[@Moonfleet41]

That's a shame mate, sounds like you had all the right intentions and all the right principles understood, kits do vary in their style, but the principles are the same... perhaps you could practise with the kit and get a little better at it for the next time a thread goes wrong?? Good luck with it, and never kick yourself because better the man who has a go... all the best, Del

[@gordonjoyce2157]

Thanks Del, as always you clear the BS, I will fit them and see how I get on. Thank you for your help and super-rapid reply. Regards Gordon.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Gordon Joyce No worries Gordon, glad it could help you sir.. !

[@GymJockey67]

Great tips! I precisely had that problem with my derby cover! Thanks!

[@d.fresh.750]

Had to do one on a wheel hub on my car one time, years ago. Not a bad job at all. I don't remember much about the kit anymore, but it seems it was a little different than yours. Definitely a skill worth having! Great video Del, once again!

[@Moonfleet41]

+D. FRESH. 750 Kits vary mate, but the principles are all the same.. !

[@georgeroberts3227]

Loving the simple skills back more the defiantly use them in the future

[@Moonfleet41]

+George Roberts Thanks George, glad it could help !

[@BigDan1190]

Excellent video del, very informative and comprehensive - definately useful for a lot of people. I wish i knew about this 5 years ago to save me taking an old bandit sump to a mechanic!

[@Moonfleet41]

+BigDan1190 Thanks buddy, always the way aye? Still, now you won't have to take anything to a mechanic like that again lol ! Ride Safe, Del

[@davidpyle1221]

Hi Del and Penny great video very interesting the entire length of the video. Thank you, Regards from down under.

[@BigBobAyr]

I'm gonna try this on my brake caliper! thanks Del! Top man!

[@Nightm4r3z]

Did this work on your brake caliper? I took mine off to replace the discs, the caliper bracket had one hole half rounded full of lock tight 🤬

[@Dave-in-France]

Hi guys, I'm at 2:20 and already feel motivated to congratulate you on an excellent explanation of why threads strip - more later. OK so watched in full now - Helicoils - I knew the principle but never fitted them - excellent description Del but the "First Class" award must go to Penny for truly excellent camera work on this particular one. You know what they say, a picture is worth a thousand words so a video must be worth loads more - well done guys. This series of basic skills is classic stuff.

[@Moonfleet41]

+David Jebson (thebiglad) Thanks David, I just try to film what 'you' need to see, and try and make it as clear as possible, glad it worked well on this one, thank you for your kind support, we much appreciate it... keep well, and keep on with wine & cheese lol ! Penny!

[@Trevor_Austin]

Thank you so much for that. The thought of helicoiling scared me fartless. No longer.

[@NuclearEngineerDOE]

at 5:38 you discuss blind hole applications, where the hole bottoms out without going all the way through. Note that for blind holes, you need a bottoming tap rather than a spiral point to get the proper depth. Most kits DO NOT come with a bottoming tap, and you'll have to source that separately. If you don't get the proper amount of depth, you cannot insert the Helicoil fully into the hole, and when it bottoms out, some will be sticking out of the hole. In this case, you'll have to remove the insert, requiring a $50 US extraction tool. Don't ask me how I know, lmao.

[@Erstwhile.Freeman]

Oh boy... Hope I never need this skill, but if I do, thanks!

[@softailfun]

Nice vid Del. Had exactly the problem you mentioned with the engine casing on the Softail. Helicoil saved the day.

[@Moonfleet41]

+softail fun God bless the Helicoil aye Stan, gets you out of a hundred troubles... !

[@Cueballproductions1149]

another great tip think this will come in handy some time in my life keep em coming del

[@Moonfleet41]

+Cueball “cueball” Productions Thanks mate!

[@ed_richards47]

Something that 99% of DIY "mechanics" will need at some time in their life. A true "Get out of jail free" card. And another cracking video. Cheers, Del and Penny.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Edward Richards Thanks Edward, you're right mate, this task will come at you at some point, like it or not..!

[@thefreedomguyuk]

Brilliant as always, Sensei ! Thank you

[@thedude8526]

I was removing a bolt to pull out my speedometer sensor on my 92 toyota pickup (o ring on the sensor blew out causing a transmission leak). Damn bolt hole got a partial strip as I was loosening it. Called a shop and they were charging an hour of labor. I might have to try this, though I won't be able to use a drill since it's too tight a fit.

[@gjeffares]

Thanks Del this will solve my problem. Great Video as always.

[@daveprototype6079]

Cool vise on the bench Have not seen one like that Cheers

[@ethanmacheras5967]

Very helpful as I might need to do this to my motorcycle

[@spyuggy]

Nicely done Del, I am always careful with the bike threads, but occasionally, I can find one bolt loosening all the time, just to find that someone has stretched the thread.

[@algypan]

This just happened to me this evening with my oil sump thread... now I'm left with a bike in the front yard, on centre stand with a tray of old oil still underneath it waiting for something to be done about it. Not happy! I wouldn't mind normally but I had the fuel pump replaced only 3 weeks ago and I bought myself some lovely new full leather biker gloves today that I now cannot try out on my morning commute tomorrow.

[@Moonfleet41]

OK buddy, bad luck, stuff happens aye... check out online the Wurth Time Sert, they are better than a helicoil, will give you a permanent new thread, they are easy to install with the sump in place, so no need for stripping the sump pan off... if you're gonna go ahead and do it, then get some cheap oil in the engine and flush out any possible swarf that got inside before you start it... We have a video on fitting the Time Sert if you need it! Hope that helps mate.

[@sambumanglag6432]

@@Moonfleet41 ok so now I'm sorta confused as to what would work best for my stripped oil drain (main sump pan ) on a 07' WR450F . would you recommend a Helicoil or Time Sert kit ? I am hoping I can get this done correctly the first time. and much like algypan , my bike's been sitting in garage for 2.5 mos. with old oil slowly draining into a floor pan. also the tang that breaks off concerns me not know where it floats-off to ( guess I'll fish-it-out with cheap oil & or magnet ?) help please . love the videos mate .

[@Moonfleet41]

@@sambumanglag6432 If it was my bike Sam, i would use a 'Time Sert' insert... since discovering them, i think they are a lot more butch and solid, and no tang to break off... they come with about half a dozen threads in the set, so have a practice first, and it'll be better then the original thread mate.

[@sambumanglag6432]

Moonfleet41 ok so I’ll be researching the time sert options and videos that explain the whole process. Thanks again

[@Moonfleet41]

@@sambumanglag6432 Good call.. This may help you mate. kzbin.info/www/bejne/sJm9haCKjMSCnMk

[@garethsmith5726]

Excellent Del, another great vid.

[@jeherronjr]

I did not take heed of your advice as far as the transfer case screws. Only one actually but I'm going to do both and get a little more strength from both screws.

[@wmckin11]

I've always been nervous about using these, though heard of them many times! Will definitely give it a go if I ever need it. Cheers Dudes

[@petefroud5308]

Nice Video Del . Spark plug holes striped out is a real pain , thank god for helicoils. Cheers Pete.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Peter Froud Too right Pete, saves a hundred desasters aye..!

[@petefroud5308]

Indeed Del i fix a lot of mowers and most have alloy engines . Sometimes the recoil bolt threads are a right mess . I always use a bit of copper grease on them . I swear by that stuff.

[@rossjackson7134]

Love your work.

[@CanadianTopG]

If you have to remove the bolt after installing a helicoil, will the helicoil stay in the aluminum or will it come out with the bolt? Thank you for this video, it made me a lot more confident to do this job on my bikes inner primary cover.

[@JamesMcCreadie71]

Hi Del and Penny, that was great and very useful. I'd attempt that now. Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

+James McCreadie Cheers Jame, glad it helped you mate.

[@Cp3_james]

Never knew about Helicoils, thanks for the video

[@Moonfleet41]

+James' Riding Adventures Thanks mate, glad it could help ya!

[@americanotakuinc.9637]

Hey Del check out time-serts. They are the only thread repair I use. You might end up liking them more than helicoils. Lord knows I do.

[@johnmacmillan627]

Very clear. Thank you

[@Moonfleet41]

Welcome 😊

[@martinhodgson3602]

Hi Del & Penny, interesting :) Penny, good to have you back ;-)

[@Moonfleet41]

+Martin Hodgson Thanks Martin, yeah, been a whirlwind of late with work!

[@ICE329]

Nice! Planning to do this..

[@babybugspaw7085]

Awesome education video! How do I know what size hole (drill bit) and what size Helicoil to use?

[@Moonfleet41]

When you buy a Helicoil kit.. it will include both the appropriate drill bit, and thread tap to do the job !

[@knottym00se]

I think a bolt had been crossthreaded on my car's turbo housing as it was very stiff to remove compared to the other two, although the threads on the bolt looked fine after it was removed. Putting everything back together, I get to the troublesome hole and the new bolt is very stiff to go in. Managed a couple turns with the ratchet spanner and now it just falls out, doesn't seem to grip the threads at all. I thought you might have a video to help! Going to give this a try later but it is in an absolute pig of a place tucked away behind the engine. Hopefully the drill will fit in otherwise the turbo needs to come out.

[@Moonfleet41]

Sounds like a right pain there buddy.. any real woes are always based on lack of access aye... if you can find a thread tap in wind into the hole it may just clean up the thread enough to make the bolt wind in nicely... also, it is the right bolt i presume, try one of the others in the offending hole.. it it slips in perfectly.. then maybe someone lost a bolt and replaced it with the wrong thread.. ???? just a thought before you go cutting into it..??

[@knottym00se]

Aye double checked with the old bolts and same story, bought them from Ford as they need to be replaced when removed. I was thinking I'd try and get a picture of the inside before I attack it, like you say it might not be as bad. Just back from Machine Mart with the helicoils so I'll get cracking once the rain is off. By the way, no comments on this video in about a year and you're straight in with a reply! One reason why your channel stands out from the rest, love it

[@Moonfleet41]

Thanks buddy.. .we monitor the comments all the time, happy to help.. good luck with it aye..!

[@manbearkremer]

I made a dumb mistake a couple of years ago using washers were I shouldn't have and I ripped the threads out of a couple holes on my Suzuki Samurai way before I got to torque spec. I couldn't get the right size helicoils in metric, ended up getting something close enough in SAE that was in stock at the local auto parts store, had to swap bolts but it all worked out in the end and saved my bacon.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ryan Kremer I think we've all been there Ryan, as long as we fix it who cares sye.. .lol

[@NeilSnapePhotography]

Helicoils have saved me often. A question I have is if the bolts are long, how long does one really need that is rethreaded with the helical? As head bolts etc, as helicons are available with different lengths yet usually not near as long as the bolts?

[@Moonfleet41]

I've often pondered that one too Neil, and never found an answer to it, or have i ever seen a thread repair even in Helicoil, or Timesert that is longer than about 20mm... maybe one for the engineers out there i guess.1

[@bobbybackmarker9665]

Had one come out with a sump plug that had previously been repaired. Didn't know how to get one in tho! :) Cheers!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Bobby Backmarker The can wind out with a corroded bolt, or if the initial parent thread was a bit sloppy when it was fitted... but generally they are extremely reliable..

[@bobbybackmarker9665]

Great stuff. Cheers.

[@riley1jake2]

Tap hole again,insert new coil in with lock tight. You should be set. I always use lock tight when I install the coil the first time.

[@greggferns3278]

Just as I come out from under the VFR,having drilled out two seized header bolts,I find this.It must be fate Del.I'm off Helicoil shopping

[@Moonfleet41]

+gregg ferns Nice one mate, glad the video can help !

[@oldageandy]

Great vid, understood the principal but never seen them in use before

[@Moonfleet41]

+Andburg Thanks mate.

[@AbouzarKaboudian]

Thanks for the tip man ;-)

[@cornfusedatbest6693]

Will this work for a lawnmower spindle? My John Deere 42" has been great since I bought it used 3 + years ago, I just happen to be changing the blades and the bolt just kept turning. I wrench quite often and I know problems arise as they often do. I know I didn't over-torque the bolt, for I thread by hand until seated. I'm not going to spend what JD wants for a new spindle, it just goes against my grain. Thank you for the video, very informative.

[@alexescobar5707]

How you get the tang out when it has to be broken inside my Heritage transmission? I cross thread the transmission casing doing an oil change but the drain plug was fine. Thanks again for such a great video.

[@Moonfleet41]

On critical threads like that, I wouldn't risk the tang falling in, I wouldn't use a helicoil at all in the first place as the tang itself is a liability, I would use a 'Wurth Time Sert', maybe look them up Sir, they're a lot safer and stronger than a helicoil and a better long term solution!

[@jimbodeano933]

another great video Del keep it up mate you saving people a fortune with these videos :-D

[@Moonfleet41]

+Jimbo Deano Hope so Jimbo, thats the idea mate... thanks for your kind support... Del.

[@MrAlmar07]

Another great video Del. And something I might just have to do now. Saved this one. Ride safe buddy. Al

[@Moonfleet41]

+Alan Bell Thanks Alan, one for the safe box mate!

[@dpm1964]

At approximately 6:43 you are talking about the lack of material in the casing so you couldn't use a larger bolt. However, isn't the heilcoil itself requiring a larger hole? So regardless you would still have to drill a larger hole in the casing which would be risky because of lack of material around that bolt.

[@Moonfleet41]

Good point well made my friend, it's always a consideration and in extreme cases it can pay to have the casing hole TIG welded up completely, then re-drill it from scratch... but in most cases the inserting of a steel thread would be a little stronger and more robust than bolting straight in to the aluminium when it's right out at the limit... you know how it is, no two casings are the same, you just have to make a judgement job by job... and don't forget, a bigger bolt can often be restrictive because that means a bigger head to the bolt which will not fit in the space provided on the outer casing that you're connecting to it, like I said... all kinds of variables apply.

[@Icem4n84]

Great video Del. I had to do this when 5 out of 8 of my exhaust bolts snapped off in the cylinder head. 😣

[@Moonfleet41]

+Icem4n84 Nice one mate, the best part is once you've done them, they won't jam in place again, specially if you use stainless studs instead!

[@micthegreasemonkey2918]

yes delboy, ive stripped a 6mm hole in my harmonic balancer, but the holes r deep. to get to these holes u hav to travel through a pilot hole of 8mm. i hav'nt got my thread insert kit from ebay yet, but looking at it ,it will hav 2 b customised, made longer to reach the recessed holes. or can i insert the helicoils from the behind,( balancer removed) in reverse so to speak?

[@jeffcarey7013]

Just had this happen to my spark plug thread, ordered a kit. I'll pick it up tomorrow just a little concerned about the little tab going inside the engine when I snap it off.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Jeff.... with the size of the hole on a spark plug repair, you should be able to get a pair of very thin nosed pliers in there and grip the little tang to break it off..!

[@jeffcarey7013]

That's what I was hoping or maybe a magnetic screw driver if I drop it. Everything was going great and then this happened. Cheers for the reply Del

[@springy-2112]

"P" ah the humble helicoil saving brake calipers and spark plug holes throughout time..what a marvelous lifesaver.. ps am i the first to "P" ? xxxxxxxxx

[@gompie250]

on 3:35 shouldnt the m6 be drilled 5mm? m8 drilled be 6.8mm, m10 8.2mm and so on, to tap it? because there is a difference in drillholes and tapholes

[@callofgeorge]

if he were tapping the hole fresh, then yes.. but he's installing helicoil on a "stripped" thread hole.. so its drilled to size then, tapped the next size up for helicoil, then the helicoil or "threads" are installed.

[@rich19633]

Thanks Del love the skills videos , I have only used a helicoil once and it was worth its weight in gold. I over did one of the clutch Spring bolts and was looking at buying a new case but it saved the day ! I think once helicoiled it should be stronger with the stainless thread ? Thanks Rich

[@Moonfleet41]

+rich19633 Hey Rich, thats right mate.. the stainless thread is obviously stronger than the alloy one...but obviously its only screwed into another alloy thread.. so you can pull the insert out of you swing on it too much... just torque it in like the original bolt and its fine..

[@rossshaw4687]

brilliant tuition on helicoil but Wat about a stripped spark plug thread on my mk1 600 bandit. previous owner done this. the plug does stay in but I know it will give some day. thanks

[@Moonfleet41]

+Ross Shaw Same process Ross, you just need to buy the correct Helicoil kit for your plug hole..(and they are easily available), its just a bit longer process mate..!

[@christine-no8ml]

One question is the thread tap or the bit that screws in to make the thread for the helicoil reversible? I mean can you tap it on the other side and the helicoil the other side?

[@reggylippens6259]

simple skill but extreme usefull why i had my engine bloc 3 treadhs out of the frormer owner and i putted 3 hellicoils in it bloc runs like ne ......if i had to go to machine shop i whould have 300eu for repairing and now it costed me 45eu maybe for the helicoil set

[@redlineriders2695]

great explanation thanks for the video!

[@Moonfleet41]

+RedlineRiders269 Thanks fellah.

[@groundskeeperwille]

Brilliant, thank you so much. :-D

[@Moonfleet41]

+groundskeeperwillie Cheers Willie, you'e welcome buddy!

[@ralphdavila8942]

Nice !

[@rmulchi]

Schweet! I'm pretty sure I'll be referring to this video in the future if I keep working on my CB750 project. It's just a matter of time 😄. Thank you guys. Out. SeattleRod aka Rodrigo.

[@Moonfleet41]

+rmulchi Hi Rod.. good to hear from you buddy.. Good luck with your project, sounds fun... take care..!

[@cashblack3396]

What happens if you put the bolt onto the grooves made by the bolt tap and not use the helicoil?

[@Moonfleet41]

Thats fine, you'd simply need a bigger bolt as its a bigger hole, which would mean a bigger head, and different tool size..

[@aw3946]

. Are all helicoil inserts the same across all manufacturers meaning would the thread cut to take an M8 helicoil for example be suitable for any other make of insert?

[@daz0705]

almost every thread or bolt on my bike was stripped or seazed when I bought it, had no end sheer on me aswell, I know you have already done a video on using easy outs, there simple enough until you come to one that's so seazed that I sheered the easy out of in the hole aswell, gave up and bought another head in the end lol

[@Moonfleet41]

+Daz Fowell Hi Daz, i think we've all had them that bad at some point... glad you fixed it, sometimes it has to jus be replaced...

[@boombox469]

Good skills Del. Keep it up mate ;)

[@Moonfleet41]

+Dan Kidd Thanks Dan, simple stuff, good to spread the word!

[@steven.h0629]

Nice.. I need to do my KZ1000 head, all the cam(s) holders and end covers.. another retirement project :-) 13:26 Thank you..

[@johnaverick7468]

Even over here in the states, Those Kawi KZs had some crap aluminum in the engines AND carbs. had to use little wee Heli coils on my float bowl bolts. Stripped them using what I thought was the greatest of care. Still Great Bikes though !

[@Denver_place2001]

great video Del , but one thing i didn't understand: lets say its a 6mm bolt and thread, so you drill with 6mm, dap&die 6mm, but the outer side of the helicoil its larger than 6mm , how does it go in the hole ? the helicoil inside thread its 6mm but outer its larger , shouldn't i drill 7mm and tap&die 7mm so the helicoil fits in ?

[@Moonfleet41]

+Denver Hi mate, you are over thinking it, the next time you pick up an M6 bolt measure the overall dia. against the inner teeth dia. of the thread, any helicoil kit has clear instructions on drill sizes and on an M6 thead you drill 6.1mm, no such drill bit, so drill 6mm and cut with an M6 tap, but you don't have to think too much about it as they supplyt he correct tap and hte correct drill bit in the kit... hope that's clearer buddy

[@gsh319]

Hey Del, Great stuff! How do you deal with breaking out the rear tang with a blind hole where you can't punch it through the back?.... do you shorten the bolt so as to not bottom out onto the tang? And I guess retrieving the tang in a spark plug hole could be a bit dicey also,... any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank You again. A great channel you've got going!

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Scott, ok, with the blind hole... the tang is only, maybe, 1mm thick so you could, indeed, just grind a tiny bit off the end of the bolt, but make sure you still have twice it's width in length at least, if that makes sense! And with the spark plug hole, breaking the tang off is no problem, cos it's a big enough hole to get a pair of needle nose pliers in there and carefully twist it out, but the challenge isn't getting the tang out of a plug hole, it's drilling and tapping the thread without dropping swarf out in to the cylinder, so I would always take the head off, if you can...

[@alanclarkealan9525]

@@Moonfleet41 small metal pole down the blind hole and then attach a magnet should lift the tang out

[@santigastelum3616]

Yesterday I was looking for a video just like this one here on your KZbin page haha... thanks for uploading it today! I have done alot of things to my bikes 'cause of your videos! you're the MAN!! ..... Can you help me with this question here? I have a suzuki intruder vs800 1996, the gas tank is missing the bolt that holds the tank on it's place.. and the thread on the frame is stripped, what bolt size and helicoil/tap should I use? thanks and keep up the good work!

[@Moonfleet41]

+Santi Gastelum Thanks Santi, you're very kind mate, im glad the videos can help you.. !

[@johnaverick7468]

Great vid on using HeliCoils for a through bolt thread app. Problem is he never showed us how to get rid of the Heli tit on the back side ! ?

[@stevengarnham7425]

Sorry if I'm being thick here but, an M6 bolt requires a 6mm drill bit, so, what size tap would you then use to make the thread? and is there a chart available anywhere to help with the various sizes? Thanks in advance...

[@Moonfleet41]

Almost right buddy, for tapping an M6 thread you'd drill a 5mm hole ! But you don't need to work out all the calculations, If you buy a reputable helicoil kit, it should come complete with the correct size drill bit and tap..!

[@stevengarnham7425]

@@Moonfleet41 thanks for the reply, thing is, I've got a box full of coils and a separate box of metric taps, neither of which are related 😀

[@crapu4u]

Del, i don't think i saw this asked here, but after you insert the coil do you still use the same torque values recommended in your service manual?

[@Moonfleet41]

+Cezar Spatariu Yes mate, the repaired thread should be easily as strong or better then the old thread was before you stripped it... if you cut the recieving thread cleanly and accuratly, then the steel insert will be fine to torque as directed..!

[@gordonjoyce2157]

Hi Del, I need your help... I just bought a set of OE drag bars which is supplied with a new fork stem washer and fork stem bolt, do I need to use them? as I would rather not get involved with setting fall away unless you fancy doing a video? Regards Gordon.

[@Moonfleet41]

+Gordon Joyce Hi buddy, I get what you are saying, and can't understand why they would supply a new washer and nut, unless the new drag bars foul the old ones as they are thicker??? I always believe if the cart ain't broke don't fix it, so fit the bars and if everything fits and works fine, there's no reason to do anything else! Unless the supplier of the bars can tell you why!

[@mathewlloyd7770]

Hi Delboy. I was wondering whether you could give me some handy advice. I'm new to motorcycle maintenance etc... But I've purchased a BMW R9T and am looking to do some cosmetic mods and general maintenance myself. I've purchased some Rizoma parts specifics for the bike but I will require some of my own consumables. The question is. Can you recommend some garage essentials that come in handy for lots of jobs please? Grease and loctite etc

[@Moonfleet41]

+Mabs Hi mate, I understand what you need, what you're referring to is commonly called sundries and you could take a couple of week's 'pcoket money' and invest in some basic stuff that will keep you going for a season, a simple list off the top of my head would be: Large can of WD40 Large can of Carb/Brake Cleaner Medium tin of LM Grease Small tube of Red Rubber Lube Tube of CopperSlip/Anti-Sieze Tube of Medium Blue Threadlock Roll of Insulating Tape Fistful of Cable Ties Aerosl Can of Satin Black Spray Paint ( great for little brackets, or things you might scratch ) You could invest in a litre (comes in a pump bottle) of ScottOiler FS365... we have a video on it, great for setting off on the right foot with a brand new bike... you mist it over the metal parts of the bike (NOT THE BRAKES!) and it coats everything with a layer of soluble silicone and when you wash the bike a week later, everything just rolls off with the soapy water... read up on it, great stuff and better than WD40! Am assuming you've got plenty of tools, but most of all keep my contact handy and drop us a line any time you need... good luck with it buddy, have loads of fun and enjoy your bike! All the best, Del & Penny!

[@matthewmarshall2270]

Hay,del great vids and lots ov tips, but iv a question, which im hoping you can help me save me money, a re tightened the bolt on the crankshaft ov my moped, changing the variator, with an air gun, yes i no stupid, and obviously stripped, the bolt plus the threads on the crankshaft, so have you any tips which i could use to retighten the bolt, and save me stripping the whole thing to change the crankshaft. Re threading, or putting a helicoil on the crankshaft and tightening the bolt on to it. Is that possible.pls help. Thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Matthew, yes that's entirely repairable mate, now you know why I don't use a windy gun! OK, I can't see the parts, but I imagine the damage to the internal thread is less than the damage to the stripped bolt?? Have you tried cleaning up the thread inside the crank with a tap, and then fitting a new bolt?? If that doesn't work, cos the thread inside the crank is too damaged, then is there enough metal around it to drill out to the next size and re-tap the crankshaft.. you'll have to do this to fit a helicoil anyway, but the steel on the crank should be pretty tough, so once you've tapped it out to the next size, are you able to fit a larger bolt in that hole?? If not, then yes, you can fit a helicoil , but use a good quality one and when you fit the new thread fit a little threadlock on the outside of the coil to lock it in place... Hope that helps...

[@sleepygreen1956]

Thank you

[@sc225]

If you use this for oil pan and at your finial stage you broke that small piece out and it might be seating inside the oil pan how can you take that out ?

[@Moonfleet41]

You'll either have to wash it out by filling with oil and then draining to see it if comes out with the oil... or drop the sump pan off..!

[@markymark1180]

I have an M10 engine mount (I think it is 1.25 maybe 1.5 pitch) on a Kawasaki 1000 that someone fitted frame sliders to and stripped the threads, I am thinking of doing this but obviously nervous. Will I be able to get the original 40nm of torque on a new M10 x 1.25 helicoil ? Also the threaded hole is approx 30mm deep - can I buy 30mm deep helicoils ?Many thanks.

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Mark.. 40Nnm is pretty low for an M10 thread, so yes, if correctly fitted it will easily hold fast. You can indeed buy M10 x1.5 x 30mm and 1.25 pitch too.. just be sure to get the right pitch for your task.. all that kind of thing is easily available online mate.

[@markymark1180]

@@Moonfleet41 Thanks Del, much appreciated, I will have a go at it.

[@declanmoran1894]

Just had a bolt sheer off in my cbr frame where the left footpeg hanger is held , bit of a nightmare as things went from bad to worse leaving me with little choice but to use a Dremel tool to remove remaining steel - bricking it now as hole for helicoil must be straight ! Any advice ???

[@Moonfleet41]

High Declan.. sorry to hear that mate, i completely understand your trepidation, but its not as hard as it looks to be... Rather then hoofing into the hole with a power drill, do it gently by hand.. remember you're only clearing out damaged alluminium swarf, you're not actually drilling a hole.. so if you don't have an actual hand drill.. then stick the drill into the hole but just gently twist the chuck by hand a little at a time holding it dead straight.. it should cut through the damaged old threads easy enough... then you can cut your new thread and insert the coil.. alternatively if you haven't bought your helicoil kit yet, then have a look at the "Time Sert" kit from Wurth... it comes with tools to help you cut the new seat, and the insert is a lot heavier duty... we have a video on how to fit one if you need it mate.. Good luck. Del.

[@declanmoran1894]

@@Moonfleet41 Thanks Del , I'm certainly not going to rush the repair and like you said in your vid there's not much meat around the hole so finding a way to keep the drill absolutely straight is critical for a number of reasons . I haven't bought helicoil set yet and will take your advice on that . Thanks again and keep doing vids - great work man !

[@declanmoran1894]

Howdy , got that helicoil fitted safely and securely thanks to your video instructions but had to make a jig with sleeve to guide the 8.3 mm bit straight . Chuffed with myself now. Used same kit to ! Keep 'em coming & thanks !

[@darkmind9244]

hi there, just a quick question. Would it be worth putting some thread-lock on the helicoil before its inserted to help prevent any galvanic corrosion, or is the fit too tight to allow any kind of barrier between the steel and alloy? (btw loving all of the videos)

[@Moonfleet41]

Hi Ian.. its not just that the threaded hole is tight.. also the insert itself it a little 'spring' and anything making it tighter could foul it up.... not that ive tried.. but that probably because ivr never had one come out.!!!!!

[@jak2k50]

Finally the helicoil video!

[@Moonfleet41]

+jak2k50 Sorry for the wait buddy, we get ti them all in the end..

[@crimcrammoo]

what happens if you need a longer insert? or should the insert just sit at the top of the hole?

[@Moonfleet41]

You can buy longer inserts...

[@jeg569]

Could it also be used in a sump? Would the threads that are still in the inside stop the oil from draining?

[@Moonfleet41]

I wouldn't use a regular helicoil for a sump plug repair... i would rather go for a Wurth Timesert.. they are much stronger and longer lasting, and they make specific repair inserts for certain job like spark plug and sump plug repairs... maybe have a look into them.!

[@jeg569]

@@Moonfleet41 thanks, had looked at them previously but they are over £200 for 5.

[@Moonfleet41]

@@jeg569 Yes they are a reasonable investment but that includes the tools to apply and fit them, once you've invested in the kit the replacement inserts are quite cheap and it's still cheaper than buying a new sump!