Descend | Ascend with a Black Diamond Guide ATC

[@neoleonard7544]

i think we should clip the redirected break end into a different carabiner and not the one with the runner attached to it. i used to do it this while i was setting but i realised that the rope would rub on the runner until i had to change another one. so now i clip it into a DMM revolver and for the leg loop, i clip it into a separate carabiner attached to the ascender, in this case, the VT.

[@YiZongOng]

why would you rappel off a prussik backed up by an atc? shouldn't it the other way round with the prussik acting as the third hand for the atc? and why would you consider the atc w/o a back up a point of contact when you cannot technically load it hands-free?

[@LiveRogue]

We are in fact rappelling with the ATC. We realize a traditional prusik backup is placed below your rappel device. This is not the case with the valdotain tresse (VT prusik). The unique shape and mechanics of the VT make it optimal for placing above a rappel device. If you lose your hold on the brake hand the VT will engage to arrest the descent. The best part is that it’s releasable under tension.

[@maddyal6260]

Awesome! Gave this a go tonight and it worked well.

[@LiveRogue]

Maddy. Happy the technique worked well for you. Thanks for giving it a try!

[@loganmagnan]

Really helpful and direct explanation! Thank you!

[@MainLineAirsoftClub1]

can you put the prusik biner in the hole on the atc? how about just use the prusik on the same biner the atc is on similar to a hitch climbing pulley?

[@David-cp6rl]

Why do you need a leg loop backup? If it's in guide mode, you shouldn't need it, right?

[@phoenix4ever367]

Is there a way to swap from guide mode back to rappel mode while hanging from the rope. Free hanging no cliff to stand on. It was a bit unclear how you made the swap. Or should I stick with the grigri

[@canaDavid1]

Just make an alpine butterfly and clip to that while you are reassembling (Or a double fig8 like at 2:00)

[@muyunqing]

If this is long ascend, will the rope burn the sling? The rope heat only one location of the sling.

[@LiveRogue]

Good question. The way we demonstrated is mainly intended for short ascents. If you’re on a long ascent other methods like ascenders would be a more efficient mode of travel. Alternatively, if you want to use our technique and are worried about wear on the sling, add a second carabiner that’s you only run your main line through.

[@spencergiles72]

Would be so much easier if you rigged your autoblock below the ATC on the rap.

[@706d]

What size rope are you using for the VT Prussic?

[@LiveRogue]

8mm is the one we used in the video. BlueWater makes a smaller one for smaller ropes.

[@joshuafryer3370]

Oh shit, 9th Street. Nice!

[@cmc1234]

Can a normal ATC be used the same way?

[@LiveRogue]

No.

[@nathanreynolds3462]

9th street is always the best!

[@ricklatimer6121]

The prusik knot needs to be set up below your atc device man!!!!

[@LiveRogue]

Not the case when using a VT as illustrated in the video. I didn't believe it either until I tried it... absolutely amazing!

[@juliolopes10]

sorry bro, your doing it wrong and kind dangerous actually... stand on leg loop and clip a carabiner while holding youself ? serious? hahahahha when your are one rappeling, you should transefer your weight to the prussik . at this moment you can clip your atc on guide mode , confort and safe!

[@rocoperroni7664]

Too complicated with so many set ups