Designing an Elliptical Hoop Skirt - Christine’s Masquerade Dress (Phantom Movie 2004)

[@gothempress]

The hoop skirt will be held down and that bouncing will be greatly reduced once the weight of the skirts and underskirts and petticoats are on top. Thankfully. Also bum pads are life! You can stuff them with extra bits of cabbage you have. Bernadette Banner has a great video up on her making of a bum pad, in case you are interested.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, that's true! I did think about using scraps..but thought that it wouldn't hold up the heavy hoop as well as shavings (fabric would squish more than wood.) Thanks for sharing!

[@sourfrog21]

Phantom of the Opera is one of my favorite movies and Christine’s costumes are my favorite parts!

[@johanna_elizabeth]

It was quite interesting seeing all of the engineering that goes into achieving those historical silhouettes. I've never made a hoop skirt, so it has never occurred to me how they would've kept the bulk of it pushed to the back, but you did it very cleverly. So far this project is looking beautiful and I'm excited to see the completed ensemble, as this is my favourite costume from the film (well that and the Think of Me dress 🙂).

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

I'm so happy to have you along for the process! Hoop skirts are a challenge, but fun! :) Oh, and yes! I love her Think of Me dress as well!

[@johanna_elizabeth]

@@BellaMaesDesigns Well thank you for all the effort you put into sharing your creative endeavors-- they are inspiring and insightful 🌿🌸🌿

[@Crosshill]

i had a sudden resurgence of every wrong factoid i have ever been told about 1800's womens clothing and how lucky it was that this costube community eventually grew to the point where i get to learn the tiniest fecking detail about fastening hoop skirt steels

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

I'm glad the Costube community has helped you! ❤️

[@Crosshill]

@@BellaMaesDesigns i might have never known the bouncy delight of bustle cages and be stuck thinking they were heavy steel prisons that got women burnt to death lol

[@belindacoba5158]

That hoop skirt looks amazing, using the studs was a very wise desition , sewing those would have been a nightmare.... And at the end when you were sewing the pillow to the waistband you said you didn't want to sew this by hand, I can imagine it would be very painful because you already had blisters... Excellent job!!!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! Yes, I definitely didn't want to hand-sew it!

[@Hi.i.am.Joy93]

It’s always amazing what a huge difference foundation garments can make.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, it really is!!

[@Hi.i.am.Joy93]

Bella Maes Designs Maybe once the project is done, you could probably do a before hoop skirt/after hoop skirt comparison to show the difference that it makes.

[@bonniehyden962]

As someone who has never sewn to this level...I am in complete awe of your genius and patience!

[@DenasAlexz]

Oh my god. I'm excited to know that we're getting another week of this project, but it never crossed my mind that making this hoop skirt would take that much work. I mean, I definitely knew that it would be super detailed and it would take a long time, but it seems it took even more effort and time, and I really admire you for that.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, that's fun to hear! So happy to have you along for this journey! Yes...hoop skirts take a lot of time and this one was even more time!

[@seanaghpalmtree]

That hoop skirt is honestly the bets piece of mechanical engineering I've ever seen, I love seeing the process going into all the items that make up the costume/dress!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thank you! ❤️

[@adriannegentleman83]

cleverly done, I believe the pillow is called a bum pad. the hoop skirt is lovely, great shape for the dress. looking forward to the rest of the outfit.

[@seamseams]

I'm a bit surprised that she didn't do a bustle pad, because there are patterns and instructions readily available

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Oh, thanks for sharing! I figured that's want it was called. But I was lazy and didn't look it up! 😂

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

I don't really do patterns...😂 I just needed something to push the hoop up, and just created something for that (and it is basically a bustle pad!)

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

Wow! I can see why it took months to complete! Excellently done!

[@alaskacosplay]

Im working on my own interpretation of Christine’s dress but Im going to be making it with historically inaccurate materials (neoprene for the bodice since I need some comfort) as well as making the silhouette of the skirt really full of petticoats and a more modern hoopskirt for the ease of walking since I like the look of the skirt lifting a bit when I dance and the petticoat shows a little bit. I wish you luck on your dress and it looks great so far.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

That's wonderful! I hope it goes well!

[@mayacooke7843]

I've just bought the dvd today. Gonna watch it tonight. Then I will understand this gown in her full glory!..... ANGEL OF MUSIC GUIDE AND GUARDIAN, BRING TO ME YOUR GLORY!!!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Oh, yay!!! Enjoy! ❤️

[@lunasmum6869]

That is incredible! How much work goes into making the shape of the dress and the wearer! No wonder they were so expensive in their day. Well done!

[@dgbclub7]

this is amazing; i once made one of these for a college costume design course. It to this day is one of the most arduous undertakings. Yours is beautiful and truly functional; great construction ideas. the bouncing is part of the historic concept that as architectural the fashion was it still had movement, like a skyscraper building of today still stands during an earthquake. lol

[@GwendolynArthur]

Oh my goodness that is so neat. If you could do a video on making 1860’s hoop skirts I would love to see that!! I want to make one but haven’t yet. Also, i am just generally in awe of your attention to detail and patience. It is amazing.

[@sandieking9007]

I'm always struck by how much lost knowledge we have in the old techniques!

[@maryorosco1027]

this is why we should scrap regular learning and start using interest-based learning think about the kids who would probably enjoy this stuff..

[@estelledesigns]

WOW!!! there's a lot of hoops! I'm really enjoying this video series!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, there really are a lot! 😅I'm so happy to have you along for the process (and am looking forward to your videos about your current project!!)

[@charlarp]

Wow, how you figured all this out is amazing!

[@amandapatterson2974]

I really enjoyed watching this. The engineering needed to construct the hoop skirt was fascinating!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thank you! I'm glad you enjoyed it and I'm so happy to have you along for the process!

[@roxiepoe9586]

I believe that this experience qualifies you for a few hours of engineering credit. Fun.

[@julzgulz1992]

Wow! Just wow. I think you must have a secret army of sewing elves in your studio. Amazed by the quality and quantity of your work.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Hehe, I wish!! Thanks! ❤️🙂

[@AR-gg2su]

I have always loved hoopskirts. The engineering of it is interesting.

[@evieburke8075]

this is amazing, you put soo much effort into this!! i swear I watched the whole video with my jaw on the floor!

[@jonlilley2832]

Bravo, Mae!!! One little thing; those strings on the inside of the hoop skirt are supposed to attach to the front of the hoops and go around the back of your legs. They don't attach to the back of the hoops. And, your hoops are too close to the ground so the potential of snagging & tripping are really great. You may need to cut off a few of the bottom hoops, or tie up some of the upper hoops. Just my 2 cents worth. Beautiful work!

[@rhondamast3441]

It’s enormously exciting seeing this project coming together!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

And I'm so excited to have you along for the process!!

[@consolw]

Wow, sooo much work, my fingers hurt just watching!

[@teresamorgan4529]

Amazing accomplishment! Better than many other professional costumers' I've seen. Brava!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thanks! ❤️

[@PandaLily3]

The intro to this video is beautiful

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! I really liked how it turned out so decided to use it for the whole series!

[@suzyqc7607able]

Miss Bella Maes, Sweet young woman. This is so well done, you should be very proud of the hoop skirt. Weighted down a bit by the dress - "The wiggle "- Is something that will become much more fluid of a movement. A gown such as the one you are making is deserving of high praise - But, to See the beauty of its movement - Can't wait so it is all together. I am certain it is the most beautiful in all the land.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! ❤️ Yes, the weight of the skirts should help!

[@cecilyfortune8164]

I am thoroughly enjoying this series of videos for this project. Thank you so much for sharing.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thank you! ❤️And thanks for watching!

[@abandonedpast6410]

Impressive amount of work with excellent results!!

[@cecedubois5147]

Indeed, it turned out quite well. Incredible job!!

[@jennyaskswhy]

Wow. This is super amazing project. It's no wonder the pettitcoats weren't ready. Be proud of yourself Bella. x)

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thank you! ❤️

[@EdwardianTailor]

This turned out beautifully and it was incredibly interesting to see the construction process!

[@angelayoung4139]

wow thats so much work! well done!

[@nickiecarlson1837]

Good work! Hoop skirts are crazy complex!

[@ushere5791]

this hoop skirt turned out wonderfully--congratulations!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! ❤️

[@DipityS]

It's gorgeous - if the bare-boned underthingy is gorgeous then this coming dress is going to be divine!

[@TheMetatronGirl]

For anyone wondering, those are “nylon jaw(ed) pliers” and are available on Amazon for less than $10 USD.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, they are! I have a link in the description!

[@TheMetatronGirl]

🥴 I didn’t see your link. Sorry about that. They’re an incredibly useful tool! I use mine whenever I need non-marring grip. My immediate reaction when you showed them on camera was, “Yesssss!!!” I wouldn’t have thought of studs to attach the boning...inspired choice!

[@sugarbean7098]

It's Beautiful! I love it! I cant wait to see the finished Dress!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! ❤️

[@louiselill1528]

I like the hoop skirt they are certainly not an easy task so you did amazing job

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, definitely not the easiest project! Thanks!

[@marywhite5892]

😭😭😭 I want to wear clothes like this! You did an amazing job

[@cjtramm8]

This is beautifully done.

[@sherri-annchalmers7509]

Excellent into. Great work 👏

[@stevemaddern3065]

Hoop bounce: maybe cover bottom 1-2 wires in the back with more twill tape to act as a buffer for wear that can be easily replaced and not expose the wires.

[@kaciemccarthy5160]

The hoop skirt will be held down and thet bouncing will be greatly reduced once the weight of the skirts and underskirts and petticoats are on too. Thankfully also bum pads are life! You can stuff them with extra bits of cabbage you have. Bernadette banner has a great vide...

[@lesleyharris525]

Thanks for sharing this project, and I'm looking forward to seeing the next video,

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks for watching! I'm so happy to have you along for this journey!

[@cherylcentenioblessedvirgi3241]

Nice job making the hoop skirt. Thank you for sharing.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks for watching!

[@cherylcentenioblessedvirgi3241]

@@BellaMaesDesigns You are welcome.

[@jocelynleung7480]

I am simply in awe. We praise engineers for making buildings but I think the artisans of old who crafted this stuff (and you as well!) deserve equal praise for the ingenuity and cleverness to hold up those skirts reliably! (You probably get this question a lot but) what machine are you using? I see it's a Bernina but what number? I'm amazed that you managed to stitch such endless lengths of tape with a straight and accurate enough stitch for the boning to fit :0

[@jthomasbrown1959]

What an amazing process. Great job!! 😊

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! ❤️

[@marianagil5764]

I'seeyou from Argentina!!! Very BEAUTIFUL!!!!

[@meerkat1219]

You did an amazing job...so intricate.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you!

[@meerkat1219]

@@BellaMaesDesigns You're so welcome. You do beautiful work!

[@foamandfog3112]

It looks amazing! Hoop skirts can be so hard to get to keep a shape so well done! Do you think you will release a pattern for this crinoline?

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thank you! Yes, hoop skirts are a challenge!! Well, I documented the pattern... but not sure if I'll be releasing the pattern (maybe a bit complicated?)

[@ThisPettyPace5429]

You don't have to settle for your improvised "pillow": Look up bustle pad designs!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks for the suggestion. It's basically a bustle pad, maybe a bit different design than usual, but it achieves the purpose!

[@mischief53715]

I thought the same thing but then: sawdust! I bet it will be a lot cooler under all those layers than mounds of cotton or poly fill that have to have grommets to breathe. 🙂

[@oceansnocturne]

After watching this video, I am this much closer to just making my own hoop skirt 😍

[@cherrylee1103]

that thing is an engineering marvel.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Haha, yes! It does feel like an engineering project! 🤓

[@TealCheetah]

what a lot of work!

[@eleanorbirchellhughes]

It's so exciting! Your hoop skirt looks fantastic, I love the whole creative journey you went on to get it working how you envisaged it 😃. Will the weight of petticoats and the skirt sort out some of the "bounce"? Or how about curtain weights on the front of the lowest hoops. Lovely to watch as always, thanks Bella Mae.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thanks! Yes, I do think that will help as layers of fabric are added. Thanks for the suggestion and for watching! ❤️

[@athenademer4762]

Sorry but i don't speak english. Merci beaucoup pour ce partage, j'adore votre travail, vos réalisations sont absolument superbes.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

And that's why I love Google Translate!! Thank you so much! And thanks for watching!

[@sarahheri7027]

Oh my gosh, aren't you a darling? The back of the back - well - the back of the back #awkwardsmile #awkwardforyoutooguys? So sweet! I loved the video, and all your engineering and the super casual way you're like 'oh - I had this problem and then I solved it with attatching strings and pillows to my hoop skirt. good old times!' and 'I also stuffed my butt-pillow with shavings LOL' - it just made me cheer up SO much! Thank you for making me laugh!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Awww, thanks! I'm so happy to have you watching and that this made you laugh! ❤️

[@alexandratiniakova6363]

My God, you're so talented.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Awww, thanks! ❤️I'm so grateful to have this skill!

[@friendly_selkie]

Would it help to put a ruffle under the end of the hoopskirt? Detachable, for cleaning purposes.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

That's an idea! Thanks for sharing!

[@talosheeg]

@@BellaMaesDesigns you can do it to the skirt! It was called a baleyuse and was a separate dust ruffle hidden under the train of the skirt

[@afa_coutour7995]

I love it!!!

[@adeledesm8853]

I love this. Some day I will do something like that Also to help reduce the noise of the bottom circle hitting the floor, maybe saw a ruffle on it ?

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

That would! Though with the just the petticoat on top of it, it doesn’t bounce as much!

[@sarahlongshore2605]

Wow!!! Just wow!!!!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Awwwww! ❤️

[@elsabrackett9337]

Excellent l love it ❤️

[@danaventura5998]

Very cool.

[@flippinpages6550]

great job.

[@shellsmith1737]

This is Beautiful!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks! ❤️

[@shellsmith1737]

@@BellaMaesDesigns Your Welcome

[@ameliathomas9219]

Any chance you'll be releasing an instruction guid on how to make this hoop skirt? I've bought several of your other patterns and would really love to make one of these for my 1870s dress

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Unfortunately no. 😔

[@Midlife_Manical_Mayhem]

we've all heard of the patience of job. well, meet the paitence of isabella! just wow.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Haha! 😂 ❤️

[@LadyB_20]

Wow, the level of work and time you put into this shows. Can't wait til all pieces come together. Would you be making the accessories as well?

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thanks! Each piece that comes together makes me more excited for the final dress!! Everything that's on the dress will be replicated, but I'm not sure about the hair-piece yet (and are there any other things she wears...I can't remember!)

[@augustwogsland3309]

I was very surprised when you pulled out studs to attach the bones to the structure. I really thought you were going to hand sew it all together. I didn't even know studs were an option.

[@argusfleibeit1165]

A couple of questions came to me-- Having watched you draft your own patterns for the chemise, corset, and corset cover, and now this-- I think you must have above average math-ing and engineering capabilities in your brain, if not actual training. Do we think that the average woman in the home historically was able to do these things? Or are we at the point where obtaining these garments necessitated the employment of professional dressmakers? I have a hard time believing people were actually able to do this work as a matter of course. My second question is about the boning. Do we know what were the lengths of natural baleen that was available from the animals? You had a long, continuous roll of synthetic material out of which to make these increasingly larger hoops. Were shorter lengths bound together, yet still had the roundness, spring, and even dimensions to make the form? Really fascinating to watch you do this work, so thanks so much for sharing your process.

[@dellsiecosplay]

Such a great breakdown of the hoop skirt process!! Any particular reason you chose to use the studs instead of doing some tac stitching?

[@marievenezia4929]

OMG!!! This was just amazing!!! I've just discovered your chanel after watching many other historical costume makers and i have to say your skills are far superior. Do you have formal training? Your work is just beautiful.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Ah, thank you so much! ❤️ Nope, just the basics learned from my mom and the rest; self taught!

[@deborahmelo7993]

Amazing! 💙

[@hoa7254]

Well back in the days they used wooden forms to get the metal baleen in shapes. Pinchers attached and ready to go over bustle pad, if even needed.

[@abrrrl]

Woah! How many hours in total did this part of the project take? I wonder if you took the time to keep count... This is a massive undertaking, Bella. So happy you brought us along for the ride because this more engineering structural aspects of sewing aspects are always so interesting to see. :) Also, just wondering, aren't the wood shavings in the bustle pad uncomfy? Don't they poke you from behind? Or are the layers of undergarments enough to cushion? Although the wood shavings are probably better overtime as I imagine they won't deflate as much as wool batting and other similar materials... Anyway, so excited for next week's video! Can't wait!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks! It took about 60 hours to make and this included the design process. And to answer you question about the wood shavings, no it's not uncomfy! And that's why I decided to use shavings instead of other things; less squishy so won't compact and such!

[@kashfiaislam9995]

Corsets are much more comfortable than underwire bras. 🎭🩰🎨

[@imagination4115]

Really super

[@katyb2793]

Does the steel boning need to be tight in the channels? Or is it ok if it has some wiggle room so it's easier to get in the channel?

[@julieroyce4497]

Is using the metal studs historically accurate? What caused you to decide to use them rather than stitch them in place? Just curious it came out great!

[@Berriesofafeather1122]

Yaaaassss!!!!!!

[@AlysianaHunter]

I’ve heard that weighing down the front of a crinoline can help force it backwards and that seems to make sense from a physics standpoint. Another option to consider?

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

I've heard that! Thanks for sharing!

[@FashionDivaNY]

If you add weights to the front it may help with the annoying bounce. Great job on the hoops

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks for the suggestion; I'll be looking into that!

[@bosse1998]

You are amazing!

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, thanks! ❤️

[@bosse1998]

I have learnt a lot. Despite being a Dress Historian. The cage in 1862 must have been huge, well they are. I dance historical dance.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Aw, well that's good to hear! I try to just share my thought process along the way in these videos!

[@debbiehoward8323]

I'm making a Victorian China doll dress. Not just like yours but a lot smaller. love the back of your dress. lm making my own boneing ,Its so had to make that hoop that dress lay right

[@vanessagough3247]

What did you use for hoops?

[@neldahargo29]

if you figure the cost of this garment, deduct the cost of materials, divide by the number of hours it took, you come up with the hourly wage of hoop skirt makers. And these people have to have engineering skills as well as craftsmanship.

[@fatimamorjani5940]

Super

[@miriamflores4723]

😍😍😍

[@eplma.p.4702]

Can you please make a diagram for the hoop skirt

[@danielspencer1829]

Add a bit of weight to the front bottom edge of the hoop. It will help with the bounce and lift the back a bit.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll be looking into it, I think the weight of the skirts will help with the bounce as well!

[@danielspencer1829]

@@BellaMaesDesigns True, but a bit of counter balance from the front will lift the back. the petticoats and skirt will weigh heaver in the back.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

The hoop skirt turned out great. I know you have been thinking about making a Cinderella ballgown for yourself. Do you think this hoop skirt would work under that dress as well?

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Thanks! I've actually designed a hoop for the Cinderella dress that's based on the actual one used in the movie. So I'll be making that one again for that dress! Even so, I do think this one would be a little too large in the back and not enough volume in the front and sides.

[@kirstenpaff8946]

@@BellaMaesDesigns Ah well, I was hoping that you could save yourself making another hoop skirt, but I totally understand why you would want to make one specifically for the Cinderella dress. More cool video content for me to watch I guess.

[@ethanphillips3704]

Ok so I’m a boy and I’m wondering if me wearing these clothes would be socially acceptable??

[@rgugs]

Once you get the peticoats and skirts on, it might not bounce as much.

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

Yes, that's very true! Thanks for sharing!

[@elizabethrobbins8580]

I think you could have gotten away with making a bum pad that is separate from the crinoline.

[@seamseams]

Yes, I was wondering why she attached it

[@BellaMaesDesigns]

I almost did this! But after looking into it, I realized that I didn't want the extra bulk of a waistband to attach it separately!