Designing Your Own Knits and Knitting Without a Pattern // Casual Friday 3-41

In this week's Casual Friday I have Tidbits, updates on two projects, and I discuss topics related to designing knitwear: knitting math, making modifications, knitting without a pattern, and designing from (almost) scratch.
Support me by buying me a coffee on Ko-fi! www.ko-fi.com/roxannerichardson
My knitting designs: www.ravelry.com/designers/rox...
LINKS TO THINGS MENTIONED IN THIS PODCAST:
Knitting History Forum AGM & Conference, 7 Nov 2020
knittinghistory.co.uk/events/...
knittinghistory.co.uk/news/ has a general description of the different talks as well as a complete schedule. You can sign up through eventbrite, and it's free.
Article on Bloomberg about the three women in the yarn/knitting industry
tinyurl.com/y2n5xn9a
- the story centers on three women in three cities - LYS shop owner Felicia Eve of String Thing Studio in NYC, a Gaye Glasspie (GGmadeit) knitter/designer in New Jersey, and Adella Colvin the indie dyer behind LolaBean
Project page for the cream cable sweater (no there is not a pattern): ravel.me/Rox/cc
video on How to Knit a Hat Without a Pattern
• How to Knit a Hat With...
August Sock KAL (tutorial for knitting custom-fit socks)
www.ravelry.com/patterns/libr...
Books (as an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases)
Knitting Without Tears by Elizabeth Zimmermann
amzn.to/35rNCAK
Knitting from the Top by Barbara G. Walker
amzn.to/37weGRY
Knitting in the Old Way by Priscilla Gibson-Roberts and Deborah Robson
amzn.to/37Hsn0B
Designing Knitwear by Deborah Newton
amzn.to/3mf2RDO
Sweater Design in Plain English by Maggie Righetti
amzn.to/2Hs3j2E
Art of Fair Isle Knitting by Ann Feitelson
amzn.to/2TkPKVd
TKGA - The Knitting Guild Association (lots of correspondence course for knitters)
tkga.org/
Introduction: 0:00
Tidbit #1: 0:47
Tidbit #2: 1:52
Project Update Cream Sweater: 3:20
Project Update Reverse Engineered Sweater: 8:19
Knitting Math: 22:34
Design Modifications: 25:18
Knitting Without a Pattern: 27:55
Designing Your Own: 40:21
If you have questions about this video, or suggestions for future videos, please let me know down in the comments or on social media.
Rox Rocks Ravelry group: www.ravelry.com/groups/rox-rocks
Facebook: / roxknits
Twitter: / roxmpls

[@sharonmerton9812]

Wow Roxanne. That was an amazing overview of knitting itself! Ha. Just sitting here knitting away and you have expanded my knitting world! Your definitions of knitting designing and knitting without a pattern, seem so obvious in hindsight, but are actually profound and give me space in my thinking to consider my knitting! A way to ponder, knit wise. Thank you so much. Brilliant run through a few texts also which I much appreciate. You are an excellent, logical, easy to listen to knitting teacher. Thanks Roxanne. Sharon 🤓🥰🙏

[@sarag1158]

your how to knit a hat without a pattern video was a revelation for me. I have gone on to edit all kinds of patterns based upon that swatch gauge. I've learned so much from watching all of your videos

[@evapmama-blue77]

I’m so glad to have come across a knitter that enjoys the process of knitting sweaters from the bottom up - was starting to feel like an outsider lol 😅🧶very happy to find your site -happy knitting

[@emilybeaton2947]

Ooooh, I really like that pocket with the red!

[@theastewart6721]

Your sweater for your daughter came out gorgeous! Thanks for explaining the difference between knitting without a pattern and designing. Very interesting! I love the red on the pockets on your reversed engineered sweater. I have no doubt that you will come up with the perfect solution! Nice! Thank you for all of the resources. Much appreciated. As far as knitting math goes, right now I can’t think of anything specific but you never know! I’d love to hear how your 1890’s Sweater for a Boy is coming along. Thank you for another great podcast! Have a great week!😊

[@alanhaenni]

What could be interesting is if you could do an overview of the various kind of sweater construction, and maybe follow up with the most common types of adjustments people might want to make. Love your posts, I never miss them.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Ah, you've read my mind! I actually have that planned for early next year. :-)

[@NinaKeilin]

Great idea. I look forward to seeing

[@sueaitkin8030]

So very informative, as always! Pocket in red along top , nice. Daughters sweater so beautiful! Your pod cast is the only one I have found that is all about teaching in some way. Thanks so much!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

You are so welcome! I'm so glad you like my podcast. :-)

[@amymikelson3060]

Great episode with lots of information and references. I realized I owned a bunch of the books you referenced, but they all burned in a car fire. Long story. I'll have to see about repurchasing them. I learned to knit in the 80's. I basically just knit a couple of sweaters without a pattern. I based it on the yarn and recommended needle size, then measured myself and got started, no swatch because I didn't know about swatches. I still have my sweater, it was a florescent green and yellow striped (large blocks) and then I ran some cables up the front and on the sleeves, but they were more deconstructed, without any purls to outline them. It's hilarious to look at the construction today, wherever the yarn ran out, I tied the next skein on and kept going. Luckily, since it was the 80's, it was a big square with sleeves, so easy. Though, it was knit in pieces and seamed. Now, today, I'm more intimidated for some reason, wanting to knit patterns but realizing they don't always fit well. So my hope would be in looking at modifications. Your sleeve decreases episode was great. The other issue I have with a recent sweater is it was top down, but as a plus size person, it fit from the bust down, but the shoulders and upper arms were way too big. It was more of a yoke sweater, but the colorwork ran the entire body and arms of the sweater. I want to get better and learning to modify patterns for myself. Sorry, this is long, but didn't you say you used the Coco Knit method for shoulder shaping when you knit you daughter's sweater? I'll have to go back and look, but I think you said you liked it. I would be curious to know if you looked at any of her other methods for sweater knitting. And, the deconstruction of your sweater has all be very fascinating and informative. Thanks!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I did use the Cocoknits Workshop book to figure out the top down process I wanted to use for my daughter's sweater. It's a pattern book with basic sweaters in it that are used to illustrate/teach her process, with lots of photos/tutorials at the start to explain how to execute the steps. I had to extrapolate how to design my daughter's sweater by reading several patterns and looking at the numbers and seeing what things were consistent and what varied based on sweater style.

[@mrshore12345]

Thanks SO much for sharing this info on knitting without patterns! I think a lot of the time people think 'knitting without a pattern' means 'going completely freehand' - which isn't the case when you have things like gauge swatches and schematics on your side! Thanks for pointing out some great resources on getting those crucial schematics for basic patterns, like hats and sweaters - not having a true basic pattern to base measurements off of often trips me up when I'm trying to come up with my own ideas! Reading the other comments: I agree that basic sweater construction/modification ideas would be helpful - what people like to change the most, for example. It'd also be amazing to learn more about how styles of sleeves and/or styles of necklines impact yoke and shoulder shaping. Maybe it's just because I've never done a set-in sleeve, but a lot of the times that's where I'm puzzled on how I'd customize there! How to change the style of shoulder (from raglan to set-in, for example) or neckline (from crew to v-neck) would be incredibly helpful. I'm a mid-twenties year old experienced knitter, but something about that kind of math just seems daunting to me. Thanks again!

[@nicolelafontaine1720]

Thanks for all these great references. I appreciate the differences between knitting without a pattern, creating a simple design, and really taking the time to design, adapting to different yarn sizes. I love the creative part of designing, it balances simply knitting from a pattern. I keep designing new mitts and socks using the "Twisted-Stitch Knitting", book by Maria Erlbacher, I just love it, so inspiring! Twisted stitches are not only pretty, but also very warm, perfect for our Northen winters in Québec.

[@haileyhurley9173]

I've learned more about designing in a few weeks of trying to knit my son a hat than well over a decade of crocheting, because patterns are pretty much what they are in crochet. You CAN just pick up a hook and go, and I usually do just pick up my hook and go on basic items, but with knitting. Nope. Everything I've looked at trying to learn goes right down to good ole fashion math. Glad I'm good at math ;)

[@ericstorm2990]

Another great video. I have been watching many of your videos, and I love the way you think and express your ideas. You have really helped me not only learn technique but why and how they work, which has given me a deeper understanding of knitting. I started learning to knit seven months ago, and there are only a handful of KZbinrs that provide the kind of clear and detailed information I am looking for. Thank You : )

[@gracevalentine1666]

Rox rocks!

[@kdunlap3289]

In Sept my sister overseas asked about knit patterns 4 Ken doll. Then said she doesn't really knit. I did not find any I liked. So I set myself some challenges, tried things out & came up w/what works 4 me in about 2 wks. Now II'm hooked having purchased various jacquard n variegated yarns to see how each comes out. The living room is filling up w/little sweaters. I did send 5 to my sister whose granddaughter was delighted.

[@stitchknit72]

That red pocket is a keeper! And I love that cream cardigan. I've been trying to design a cardigan for myself for about 18 months. Every time I think I've selected a stitch pattern, I see another even prettier.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

You can always knit a second sweater!

[@coisasamim]

Wonderful video! About knitting math: grading sizes of top-down yoke or raglan sweaters! It would be tremendously helpful!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Designing for a specific person and their specific measurements is very different from designing for a range of sizes, where you start with one "standard" size and then grade up and down. If that's something you're interested in, I would recommend that you check out the Designers group on Ravelry for resources that would help you learn to do that.

[@justplainamerican]

I've paused the video for a pocket thought. I wonder about starting at the bottom with a closed cast on (I'd use JMCO) and knitting a tube with a purl stitch on each side for a neat fold. That would give you the seamless pocket pouch and live stitches at the top. I bet you've already considered this. lol I look forward to learning about your solution. Now back to the rest of the video. I love the way the red makes an appearance on the RS. Good video, I've watched it all the way through now. I knit without patterns, I don't design. Most people I say that to don't get the difference. Thank you for explaining what I've not managed to convey.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I did, in fact, knit it as a tube, starting with JMCO, so that I wouldn't have to seam the sides. This is how I could graft the back half of the pocket to the sweater, and have live sts at the front for a 3 needle I-Cord bind off. I had considered a column of purls at the edges, but since the stockinette is on the inside of the tube and the purls are on the outside, I don't know that it would have the same effect as when the stockinette is on the outside.

[@cydnicaldwell1337]

I'm not sure about knitting math, but I've seen your videos on your spreadsheets you do. I'm just now tackling knitting a sweater for myself. So any video you do for the math needed for knitting would be a bonus for me.

[@bonniekonjevich7574]

Your video is like a gift for we who love to create our own gifts as well as for ourselves.. Thank you for presenting this useful info. You make it possible to own $150 plus, plus knitwear.

[@anastasiiaborisova5607]

What an excellent video! Thank you so much for sharing these resources and your comments on them. I am a beginner knitter and am trying to master this craft on my own. I accidentally came across your video and already learned a ton! That is definitely a thumbs up and a subscription from me. Thank you!!!?

[@kvmackay]

incredible! so inspiring and informative!! very thankful for your work!

[@NinaKeilin]

I had already read the Bloomberg article, as I follow GG. So glad you featured it. I even got to meet GG and Adella at a trunk show.

[@dorothyrainey1141]

Fantastic video this week! I really enjoy learning from you!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I'm so glad!

[@melstevens6921]

I really appreciate and thank you for your knowledge. Thank you so much. I have learned many things from you.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I'm so glad!

[@Techno-moon]

Thank you so much for the video, It really helped me. I really like the pockets with red Edge

[@jenniferpackard6558]

Such an excellent video, thank you!!! You answered many questions on how to improve and get more educated.

[@victoriapileski3966]

Very comprehensive episode and it was extremely helpful as I am starting to expand my knowledge about designing thank you

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Great to hear!

[@paulagrnsy]

And now I'm sure that I like knitting without a pattern, but I don't ever want to be a designer. Thanks for clearing that up for me!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Yeah, sometimes, you just want a plain ole hat or mittens or socks and don't want/need a pattern. You just need a few measurements, a gauge swatch, and off you go!

[@brendasolanki8424]

I've been thinking that I want to take time to study and really understand what goes into sweater design. This week's episode really is timely for me as I dig through all my books with this purpose in mind. Thanks for some interesting clarifications. HUgs

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Wonderful!

[@olive5890]

Thanks for another great video Roxanne! One of the things I would like to know is how I start a sweater in one size, say XS, but change to S for armholes and then back to XS for body. I would love to be able to tailor garments to my body type!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That's a great topic for a future video! Thanks!

[@maryalgar8779]

The one thing I would want to change on your grey cabled sweater would be having the cables mirror-images of each other on the left and right fronts. I like the red accents on the grey.

[@patriciayanez8663]

Love your daughters cardi!!! I would like to know if you have a video teaching the How-to’s …knit top down sweater with set in sleeves ..thanks

[@malenejensen2995]

Knitting math: Calculate exactly how many stitches in a project to how much yarn I need. Because the project has stripes I also need to know how to calculate how much yarn I need for the different colours. It is a biased shawl with 250 stitches, decreasing one stitch, every second row and knit in garter stitch.

[@pedrorodriguez3532]

Thanks for the tid bits. I get very interested in the math needed to get geometric shapes like circles to look good in patterns. Felicia from String Thing Studio is amazing, I use to go to her men's knitting night from time to time before covid.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Lucky! :-)

[@path9570]

I loved your video on knitting a hat without a pattern and made about five hats with yarn from my stash!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Wonderful!

[@NinaKeilin]

Fiona Ellis-what a great coincidence. I have a long dormant Fiona Ellis WIP. This week Fiona posted a comment on my Ravelry project page. What possessed her? Now I have to finish!

[@elisekt1860]

Firstly, love that white sweater, wish I could knit one like it. Regarding math, I did sign up for your sock class but at the time my head wasn’t in it. My questions are usually with those patterns that say “in pattern “, “knit evenly”, and leave you to decide where to do the increases and decreases. Have you looked at the Cocoknits sweater book? I haven’t gotten into too much sweater knitting but would like to do a cardigan but haven’t found the right one. I just signed up for the knitting guild to check out what they have as ideas on where to start. Thanks for all your work in producing these.

[@NYKnitter]

Excellent , good to have a starting place

[@RoxanneRichardson]

It sure is!

[@karentruscelli5708]

Thank You Roxanne for your very detailed explanations. You are my go to person if I need a video on a technique. One thing that totally frustrates me is when a pattern or video says to slip a stitch. There are actually 2 steps to a slipped stitch.. 1. Knitwise or Purlwise. 2. With yarn in front or back. What is the correct rule to follow when a pattern is not specific.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That's a great idea for a video topic. I will add it to the list!

[@zan_wild]

That pocket in red is ❤️❤️❤️❤️

[@melanezoe]

Really good info, interesting. Thanks.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@bsfb3ar]

Rox I absolutely love the sweat for Sophia it is exactly the kind of cardigan I’m looking for classic and very structure the part I like most is the V neck are not sloppy like most of the v- neck sweater I saw on line. Why won’t to offer for purchase? Please let me know if you decided to do so all of your lectures and advices are to be treasured. Thanks so much for sharing.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Designing and knitting a sweater to fit a specific person is not the same thing as designing a sweater to fit a wide range of sizes. These days, patterns are expected to be offered in a range from bust size 28'' to 60'', which may or may not work for an idea that is perfect for one specific size. Instructions must be clear, error-free , aimed at knitters with a wide range of knowledge and experience (I can't just present my scribbled notes and charts and tell them to go for it.) On top of all that, it must be tech edited (which is not free), there has to be a test knit (which has to last long enough for the test knitters to finish the project), good clear photographs from a variety of angles must be provided. The pattern needs to be laid out in a way that works for people reading instructions from their phone or mobile device, or from a printed piece of paper, and then when that's all done and the pattern is published, the designer has to provide pattern support for the inevitable questions, assuming that after all that investment in time and money, anyone buys the pattern.

[@miyu2354]

Your how to knit a hat without a pattern was so helpful... I hope u can do that with sweaters

[@kdgeckoknits274]

Is the pocket experiment (the red insert) knit in the round to avoid seaming? If so, do you use a purl faux seam to act as the pocket insert side seams? Can the insert be knit in one or two needle size gauge down from rest of garment to accommodate to difference between cables vs stockinette fabric? Love the accent color of the pocket lining.

[@pattyjones657]

II have a pattern for a plain knit and purl raglan sweater, that gives me full directions how to knit it. I want to knit this sweater with a design of 16 stitch cable pattern. I would knit a swatch of this pattern to find my gauge for stitches, rows, yarn and needles. Now how would I incorporate this 16 stitch pattern into making the entire sweater including the sleeves. I’ve tried different calculations and they are not working out. How would you calculate it? Would it be a better outcome to use circular needles or straight single pointed needles? If you can give me your suggestion on how to do this, I would highly appreciated it. You are so intelligent and proficient explaining your videos that I know it would be helpful to complete this sweater. Thank you , for your knowledge, you have taught me so many aspects of knitting.

[@68carolinas]

Hi, getting caught up on your videos. Love the topics this week. My question regarding math is, how to grade sizing of patterns up or down? Another question would be how to address increases & decreases when using a knitting stitch patterns.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Can you explain what you mean by "how to address increases and decreases when using a knitting stitch pattern"? Are you asking how to maintain the stitch pattern while increasing/decreasing?

[@kristinaginnerup4101]

Great, great video - thanks! I have a couple of questions. You've asked about adds one or two weeks ago. Is it beneficial for you, if we let adds run every time we se the video? I see many of your videos multiple times ❤️ And also, if I pause the video, and returns after several hours or days, there can be adds before the video starts again - can I skip them or is it better for you to see them? Regarding knitting math I am mostly interested in knitting without pattern and designing. I would like more about different necklines and will check out some of the mentioned books (if I can have them shipped to Denmark). I found the hat-video very useful for getting started on knitting without pattern, and I believe you’ve talked about the design of the blue mock cable hat before. I find that you are already doing lot of math in many of your videos (for example redesigning the grey, and earlier fridays about your daughters sweater, and one on set in sleeves - would also like more about that) so please continue ❤️

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Every time an ad runs, I get a few pennies, but I wouldn't expect (or ask!) someone to watch them again and again. :-) I appreciate the commitment to help me out, but save yourself some ad-aggravation! :-)

[@jennifersanders4165]

I LOVE the red pocket! I wonder if red around the cuffs and button band with the red pocket would look good. Even if it's only a couple of rows of color on the edges❤

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Yeah, I'll have to think about maybe using an I-cord bind off on a couple of other edges, as well.

[@jennifersanders4165]

@@RoxanneRichardson no matter what you decide, your cables are so beautiful!

[@Windy888City]

Hi Roxanne - many thanks for such an informative video. You're so generous with sharing information. I'd like to get a mannequin to fit my knitting on but am short of space. Do you regard a mannequin as an essential tool for knitting, or is it just for presentation purposes? I'd appreciate your opinion.

[@carolclaibornemumey8919]

Hello from Canada. I just found your channel. Thank you for all the great info here! So, to answer the question about confusing pattern math. The biggest problem I have is this: I like a sweater but I want to change the yarn (on my current baby-size sweater, I'm going from the pattern's DK weight to worsted weight. It's a light worsted but still thicker than DK.) I went down a needle size to get the right row gauge. I also cast on fewer stitches for the intended size. I just did all this intuitively due to laziness mostly(!) and wanting to get started quickly. The sweater is turning out a little bigger than I thought it would which is fine. Babies grow fast! This would most definitely not be fine if I were knitting an adult sweater! What's a "system" I can use to make this procedure more predictable...please and thank you?!

[@metaimagery2084]

If you put a button in the middle top of the pocket it would look really neat and stop the pocket drag which I feel lets the gorgeous design down and crisp up the whole design.

[@lydiadaugherty5171]

That was a mouth full for such story based inspirational sweater , pockets and socks plus!! Thank you :D

[@Sheila-cm4jy]

Your pouch pocket design is nicely reinforced with a crisp line at the top and less likely to sag as in the old sweater. I wonder if you completed the project and liked it?

[@emmaporter9154]

Most of the knitting math I am interested in doing is concerning scale. I want to take a sweater pattern that was knit with a worsted weight yarn, then adjust it to use a light or fingering weight yarn instead. I've done this before by taking the gauge of both yarn types and using multiplication/division, but it never comes out exactly right. Something else that has come up in my knitting recently is when knitting intarsia, trying to figure out the scale of the picture. I've had to knit three separate swatches before the vertical stretching of the pattern was correct as knit stitches are wider than they are tall. It certainly doesn't help that the shape I'm trying to make is a circle, within a square block. I was wondering if you could give some tips on how to work out scale, either of the whole knitted object, or of a motif within a knit item.

[@sanumvilenavinavilessons8198]

I second that. That is my 'struggle' as well. Also, I have yet to find a formula to calculate the bell shape of a set-in sleeve.

[@tamaragrottker7677]

Thanks for all the great ideas. I would like to know how to alter patterns that were designed from flat knitting to knitting in the round. What do I have to consider. I have patterns from the first Rowan publications, all of which are knit with straight needles and flat the I would like to knit in the round (esp. their fair isle pattern designs!)

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That's a great suggestion. I've had that request a few times, lately. Thanks!

[@MrsMelrom]

everything good we do is on the shoulders of giants.

[@moniqueg868]

I would love to get the pattern for the white sweater you knit for your daughter. especially the cabling. P.S. Thanks for the video I learned a lot.

[@Titesoline75]

I just looked back at this videos and have a question about knitting maths : How to calculate and place increases when designing a top down yoke without raglan increase.

[@sandraroper9866]

Hi Roxanne, I struggle to find info on how to change the direction of a design chart. Eg., if you have a sweater pattern which is top down. What if you wanted to knit the same design from the bottom up?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That depends so much on what sort of stitch pattern it is: knit/purl, cable, or lace. Knit purl is straightforward, cables are often doable by simply turning the chart upside down (but not always), and lace is much more problematic.

[@CarolinaStein]

I love the ideia of the red pockets!!! Very nice! About math... I would love to know a little more about the raised neck for cardigans and sweaters, that’s very intriguing, I saw a video about that a little time ago, and I kinda got it, but it’s still difficult to understand. I don’t know if you have already done or planned something like this, but I would love to see your method/opinion about 🥰

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Are you talking about a raised neck for yoke and raglan sweaters?

[@CarolinaStein]

@@RoxanneRichardson Yes, exactly!

[@TheMyssT]

The sweater is beautiful! I took a class with the type of sleeves you used in thes sweater. Do you have a reference or pattern that you can recommend for learning that technique?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I linked to many references down in the video description. Barbara Walker's Knitting from the Top was amongst them. I used a slightly different method than Walker's for simultaneous set-in sleeves for the cream sweater, instead using the construction method from the Cocoknits Workshop book. It's not a design book, but she thoroughly teaches her process in the book, and there are many simple sweater patterns in the book that can allow you to learn the technique.

[@jeancarter334]

This is a math question that I find very important in knitting: My gauge is a little bit off from what the pattern calls for. If I make the garment a larger or smaller body size, will that come out the size I wanted originally? Thanks for the wonderful videos!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

That is a technique that knitters use, when they're gauge is slightly different, or if they are using a yarn weight that is close but not the same as the one called for. It's a good technique to explain as a video topic. Thanks!

[@melodyneal663]

I have a sweater I would like to add pockets to but I want a vertical opening. I have considered doing a sort of steel but am not sure. Have you ever done similar?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I haven't, but that doesn't mean it shouldn't be done. I would try out the idea on a swatch and see what you think of the process and the results.

[@edinacole6382]

Would you share the name or type of cable you put in your ecru colored cardigan? I would like to make a cardigan with the same cable. Thank you

[@RoxanneRichardson]

It's some version of a Celtic Braid/Plait that I modified for this sweater. I'm not even sure where I got it. Possibly one of the old Harmony Guides. Many stitch dictionaries will include some version of a Celtic Braid.

[@AKLInspirations]

Is the cream cable sweater pattern available to purchase ?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

No, it is not. It's a very different process to design and knit something for a specific person than it is to design something that is then graded into multiple sizes, with instructions for others to follow.

[@jennilufair]

So, I'm a relatively new knitter. About the pockets being a looser gauge than the body of the sweater -- could you just go down a a couple needle sizes when knitting the pocket lining? Would that end up being too bulky? In my mind the tighter the gauge of the lining, the more it would hold its shape. And I get math. Most of the time I do not "get gauge" when I swatch. I don't know why. I generally make sketches and rework all the stitch counts to get the measurements I want. Although I'd be very interested to hear how other people work out their math.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

I am going down a needle size for the pocket lining to give it some firmness, but gauge difference is too great between the cables and the stockinette to make that sufficient. (The 31 sts of the cable pattern that the pocket spans is equal to about 25 sts in stockinette). The top of the pocket has to be controlled so that the 31 cable sts do not spread to the width of 31 stockinette sts. I have a plan. (I actually have three plans: one for the outside front of the pocket, one for the lining, and one for the three-needle I-cord bind off.)

[@MaryBethKelso]

After watching most of the video, I realize my question isn't so much about math as it is about a design choice. You made reference to a 70's fit of a sweater. Some current patterns (especially from younger designers) have sleeves that are too tight for my liking, and others are too roomy. The few design books I've consulted have given approximate "rules" about percentages of stitches and rates of decrease in sleeve caps. Is there any way of getting a better idea of the finished shape without swatching them all? Do you have reference books you'd recommend for that? I have Vogue, Shirley Paden, and Maggie Righetti so far. Thanks for all your great info!

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Measure a sweater that you own that fits the way you like (should be at least approximately the same yarn weight as the pattern you want to knit) and find out what amount of ease it is that you actually like. Compare that to the schematic of the sweater you want to knit.

[@MaryBethKelso]

@@RoxanneRichardson Thanks for the reply. I am pretty comfortable planning sweaters for myself. My question/concern is about designing for multiple sizes. I want to create a style that reflects my taste, and I'm not sure what the different sleeve cap shaping styles do to the roominess in the shoulder area. Consulting the few design books I have, I see different ideas about the preferred curve of a set-in sleeve. Is it just a matter of swatching, or making mock-ups in fleece fabric, do you think? I know this is getting into some detail, but I do appreciate your perspective and any advice you could offer.

[@ShowandTellknitting]

Cashmere? You hadn't mentioned that before! What will become of all that soft, gorgeous cashmere, Rox, if you're not going to repair it?

[@RoxanneRichardson]

It will sit there? Given that it's Aran weight and has a chainette construction, it might be worth re-using, but I'm so attached to it as it is, that I hate to even think of that.

[@juliewatson495]

XXXXX UpdatedXXXXX I got a ticket after all. Thanks to Grace Frank for posting it up in this thread. XXXX All the tickets are gone for the Knitting History Forum AGM & Conference, 7 Nov 2020, so keeping my finger crossed that they put it up online after the event.

[@RoxanneRichardson]

Ah, that's a shame. I didn't realize there were limited tickets available. :-(

[@juliewatson495]

@@RoxanneRichardson I have however got a ticket for this. Would advise you get in quick to get one too they probably will sell out just as quick. We all stuck in at home in Scotland and us girls need some good quality entertainment. If it follows the same as previous format there shoud be a Q&A session at the end. www.eventbrite.co.uk/e/knitting-the-herring-the-eriskay-gansey-tickets-126054625779?fbclid=IwAR14QAzGD3MbodnKJeDTloQu3HltDfpC3QuhjkFrEod62GydgI_naITJ8-U

[@juliewatson495]

@@RoxanneRichardson Remember I sent you a link to the Knitting the Herring Project a few months back well just in case you missed it here is a link to the introductory lecture. There was a Q&A session at the end but they have not added that part in the link below. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3yzYpKue6iDZ8U

[@gracefrank500]

Hmm. I just got a ticket today (Oct. 28) for the Forum and Conference through Eventbright. Perhaps they've released more tickets?

[@juliewatson495]

@@gracefrank500 Thanks so much Grace I tried the link again and I have a ticket too now. So they must have released more tickets or something.

[@QuzieSuzieQ]

Sock math! Where to start the gusset in toe up socks.

[@juliegogo2941]

Aa a heavier female I do not the added bulk of pockets. Interesting topic though. I can see why you would want a cleaner pockets. Use crocheting very thin cotton yarn... Thanks

[@ASHA_KNITTING]

🔥🌐🔥🌐🔥🌐🔥🌐🔥🌐Hi from Moscow.

[@jolynnwhite7946]

🏳️‍🌈😍👌🏾👍