Destruction Test - D2 vs. AUS8 vs. SK85 - Which is the better steel?

[@SurvivalLilly]

JOE X the most brutal knife reviewer on KZbin destroyed my APO-1S today. Probably the best knife destruction I have ever seen on KZbin. He deserves more views. Please subscribe to his channel: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGXcn5R3naejiM0

[@ferdelancelebienveillant1499]

I would have a preference for Steels, like a 60Ni20, a new steel for forging damask and which contains enough carbon to take a good temper. and enough nickel to stay very clear after the reveal.

[@kele1264]

I will watch that video. But there's no one I like better than you, Lilly!

[@kele1264]

I watched Joe's video. He is hilarious! He stabbed a car! 🤣🗡

[@landminehopscotch3617]

That's very nice of you to not only give a shout out to another channel, but also encouraging your subs to watch him destroy a product of yours. Thanks Lilly

[@joex]

Danke sehr!!

[@Hondo79]

I have the 1S and it’s a beast . I have zero reservations after owning it 8 months . NoI have no connections to Lilly . It’s well thought out and it shows.

[@angelguidesabbath]

Grain structure, as well the quality of the heat treatment make a difference. Just because the HRC is meant to be in a certain range for each knife, does not mean that there are not flaws in how they heat treat. Making some parts of the knife weaker then other areas.

[@SurvivalLilly]

if I test 10 knives of the same steel like in this video, I think the outcome would still be the same. I had one D2 steel knife which chipped on wood btw. So yeah. It is kinda brittle.

[@vikingskuld]

@@SurvivalLilly Lilly no no no no D2 is not brittle unless you heat treat it into the 60s. Not understanding what D2 is is why that happens D2 " DIE" steel is used in making dies to forge steel parts in factory. I have seen large d2 block slammed together with a red hot piece of steel between them. Slamming out one fully formed forged car part. The thousands to millions of pounds per square inch would destroy the dies if that type of steel was brittle.. not being rude but can you explain that? Look up D2 Die steel and read about its properties and what its used for. Thanks again. I am no metallurgy professional. I have sat in many black smithing classes and knife making work shops as well as attending SOFA southern Ohio forge and anvil events. I have studied metallurgy with knife makes who make some of the most expensive knives in the industry. I make knives as a hobby and have for over 15 years now. So I'm not just some troll here. Also I am trying to be very respectful to you. I just have a different set of experiences with D2 then you have. Thanks again

[@savage22bolt32]

@@vikingskuld Generally speaking, D2 is chosen for it's ability to attain high hardness. Often it will be heat treated (hardened & tempered) to 62-64 on the Rockwell C scale. Tempering at a higher temp can bring hardness down to RC 58-60. Double tempering at an even higher temp can bring the hardness below RC 58, which would be tougher than the higher RC numbers. D2 is a through hardening steel, and is great for punches & sheet metal forming dies. It may be used to make hot forging dies, but there are tougher steels that are better for that purpose. Been retired a few years, & going from memory. I'm sure you will correct me if I have it wrong.

[@vikingskuld]

@@savage22bolt32 nope you got it right I have made them at 61 and like all things its a tool you choose a purpose and make the tool for that purpose. There are much better steels today. Easier to work as well. D2 is a tough pain in the ass. I personally don't make them that hard unless it's a skinning blade or a fillet knife. That's just my personal opinion though. Thanks

[@savage22bolt32]

@@vikingskuld i believe you know your stuff. I never made a knife, worked in aerospace. Loved the field trips to the closed die forging companies.

[@20DYNAMITE06]

I love carbon steels for this use. On mine, I often strip the factory coating and use gun blueing for rust protection. They get a great patina, maintain a sharp spine for striking ferro rod (some factory coatings round off the spine), and I've never had anything worse than surface rust and I live in the pacific north west.

[@makenchips]

I have an SK85 blade on my Japanese Kanna blade in it, and we don't use it like a survival knife, but I am very impressed with how it holds an edge in planning wood, even hard wood. This is compared to 01 tool steel blades in an American premium hand block plane (similar size). So, I thought I share another perspective on SK85. Med and high carbon steels to me are or make good blades. Sharpening is also a general word. I prefer grinding and polishing when describing an edge issue. Since you do not have to grind an edge to fix a dull edge, you may need only to polish it back. That makes a big difference to me in describing failure modes of and edge. Every grade of steel has been formulated for some specific purpose or use orignal purpose, these didnt happen by chance. As we use them in different environments, conditions, or applications, you will have some trade offs in performance, which she stated! Well done there! Columbus Michigan

[@savage22bolt32]

The rust on the SK85 carbon steel blade gives it character. I'm still using my grandma's carbon steel kitchen knives 80 - 100 years old! For general purpose outdoors knives, various grades of stainless work good for me.

[@4850937]

According to Larrin Thomas, 13c26 and 14c28n, and 5160 are the best for toughness. Toughness is priority for a stabbing knife. The SRK shape is narrow (like historic daggers). It's best to have other knives for most cutting.

[@TwistedSither]

I've never had any issues with carbon steel blades, other than their tendency to rust easily. Quite a few of my knives are made of 440 stainless or surgical steel, and ave been pretty reliable over the years with little maintenance. I'm not terribly familiar with AUS-8 steel, but the more I see your APO-1, and its capabilities, the more I want one.

[@SurvivalLilly]

AUS-8 is equivalent to 440B and behaves similar

[@Nebulax123]

AUS 8 has been my favorite for 40 years it will hold a decent edge, it is low maintenance, it is fairly easy to sharpen and has very good toughness and not bad wear resistance. As a knifemaker I have tried nearly everything in the past 65 years and it is just hard to beat.

[@Solly-ow4od]

With all these “super steels” nowadays and the insane prices that go with them. Everyone seems to forget how great AUS 8 really is.

[@saintboondock5098]

Totally agree, low maintenance is underrated

[@BrizzyMo]

Probably my least favorite steel. AUS-10 yes. AUS-8 no. I usually think of it this way. The Ontario offers a cheap, throw away, trial version of the RAT-1 (and others) in AUS-8 steel. If you decide you like the knife well enough, you buy the real knife which is in D2. Just my experience of course, but every knife I've had in AUS-8 steel just felt like a gas station knife as far as sharpenability and edge retention. Is it easy to sharpen? Yes - much easier than D2. But I have never liked the edge on any AUS-8 knife. Perhaps I need to change sharpening techniques or something.

[@TheCrystalJules]

@@BrizzyMoI'm looking at a knife in AUS-10, can you tell me about what sets it above AUS-8 in your eyes?

[@monkeymcgee3630]

Can't argue with that. I learned knife making using magnacut and s35v so I'm much more familiar with these 2. Aus 8 is a great steel my only complaint it dulls to fast after several hours of hard work and it's a little on the soft side for a camp knife. The thing I love the about aus8 is that you can get a decent edge in the field using a rock and a little water

[@realbroggo]

The take away is - you really need to match your steel selection with the intended task. For example, working by the sea - go stainless (in this case AUS-8 would be best). D2 has it's place but it can be brittle esp. at high HRC so it's not a recommended chopping steel. Another informative vid. Thanks Lilly.

[@savage22bolt32]

Intelligent comment. I was just going to say the same thing!

[@Twilightzoneisreal]

I agree 💯

[@martinhafner2201]

Something near 0.8% carbon seems to work reliably in large beater knives and has worked for a long time. The 80CRV2 alloy used by the Varusteleka/Terava line works well. It is essentially SK85 with a tiny bit of chrome and vanadium added to get a little bit harder. That's the traditional "low alloy" approach (O1, O2 also) that adds a little dusting of chromium carbide and vanadium carbide without taking away the alloy's toughness, but is still close to 1080 or 1095. Condor likes 1075, which is close to that standard. They make durable knives, not pretty knives. Ontario Knives has moved from mostly 1095 to 1075. The very reliable Tramontina machetes use 1070. When knives get larger and have to take a bigger beating, then 5160 (low alloy 1060 or 1065) becomes the reliable steel, such as in the traditional heavy kukri knives which are practically hatchets. Then the real beaters, hatchets and axes, usually settle into 1045, 1050 or maybe 5160. The 5160 axes/hatchets are for high performance and have a higher risk of chipping, while the workhorse hatchets/axes are usually in 1045 and just get sharpened a lot. I am all for a small, hard knife and large durable knife. My favorite combo is a Mora Garberg (1095) or Terava Jaakaripuukko (80crv2) for carving. Ideally, it would be a Bark River Bravo 2 in A2 or CPM3V. And then an Ontario SP53 (5160, 10" blade) for chopping and splitting wood. Or maybe a Terava Skrama (80CRV2, 9.5" blade). But I will still have a pocket knife : Benchmade Freek (S30V), Ontario Rat 1 (D2) or Gerber Gator Drop Point (154CM) for small work and long edge retention. The Gator actually has the best handle for outdoor work, but it makes it a little lumpy in the pocket for EDC, so it's more of an "outdoor EDC". For a true one knife solution, you have to settle back in to the 1080 range for reliability. Of my current knives, that would be either the Jaakaripuukko 140 (80CRV2, 5.5" blade) or the Cold Steel Drop Forged Survivalist (52100, 8" blade). For knives that I don't have yet, the smaller Terava Skrama 200 (80CRV2, 8" blade) would be a very good choice, or maybe an Ontario Ranger RD6 (5160, 1/4" spine, 6.6" blade). I don't live in very wet places, so I would rather get some of the extra hardness and toughness of a non-stainless blade. The South Amercans (e.g. Tramontina) just bring a little jar of Vaseline for their carbon steel blades. I made some fixin' wax from beeswax, mineral oil and jojoba oil that is a little bit stickier.

[@AwesomeFish12]

Thanks Lilly. I learned a lot from this video. I didn't know the different types of steel, just stainless and hardened/carbon, I didn't realize that it was so much more complex.

[@richardelliott9511]

Awesomefish12, oh boy you said a mouthful! I am just so glad that I came across Lilly's video explaining he goals in designing her knife. Her logic kept bringing me back even after researching other knives. So I am the proud owner of an APO 1. Now I am an old school guy and will always carry other wood processing blades, it is nice to know that your knife is capable of far harder tasks than I am ever going to ask of it. Sorry, didn't mean for this to sound like a commercial but yeah, there is so much info out there to be sifted through when shopping for your "perfect" knife. Happy trails!

[@joejones9520]

and the heat-treatment may be even more important than the type of steel .

[@richardelliott9511]

@@joejones9520 absolutely! Even today a super steel can still be ruined by improper heat treatment....

[@SurvivalLilly]

I am starting a new knife destruction series where I want to find out what the toughest steel is. Today I started with breaking my own knife. Next I will take on other steels from other brands. Do you have any suggestions which steels that you want to get compared? Also check out JOE X who does the wildest knife destruction tests: bit.ly/3sD3LAa

[@marsrizzo2854]

It hurts to damage a good knife.

[@joex]

thanks a lot, my video about the APO 1 S is now online on my channel, i hope you like it!!! It did pretty awesome, thats for sure!!!!

[@joex]

@@marsrizzo2854 no, not really!

[@kevinAuman1]

Cruwear or cpm3v!

[@seanwelding4183]

S35vn and m390 would be awesome to see tested.

[@harvesterbladeco]

My opinion. In a survival situation, I'd rather have a sharp knife than a pry bar. D2 is definitely not the best for a survival knife. Sk85 is essentially the same as Sk5. Aus8 is basically 440A. I'd take Sk5 over Aus8 any day, and I'd pick D2 over it as well. A knife should be a good knife more than a good survival knife.

[@SurvivalLilly]

I beg to differ. Still have a great day

[@willbrink]

People say negative things about AUS8 cuz it's not modern super steel, but with a good HT, it seems a good choice for that application of survival/camp/bush type knives.

[@BonaFideWildLife]

I love this video! I was going to go with D2 but after watching this, I decided to go with AUS8 steel. Well after doing even more research, I ended up with Buck 420HC knives! They didn't rust as easily like AUS8; are easy to sharpen; held an edge longer than AUS8 (another video); and were the best bang for my buck (sorry for the pun)! Once I received my Buck knives, I fell in love with them and the Made In America company that stands behind their knives!

[@bruce-qm5fl]

For a survival type knife AUS 8 and 1095 carbon are all you need. They sharpen easily , and hold an edge plenty well to get the job done. Mora's carbon steel is also outstanding. My AUS 8 knives are from Seki Japan. I also have 2 SOG Seal Pups made in Seki Japan that are AUS 6. They work to perfection. Japanese stainless is plenty good for me.

[@tygre7]

AUS8 is never a bad choice; love that steel!

[@turboslag]

Looks like the D2 blade fractured at the end of the gimping, so that was most likely a stress raiser which propagated a fracture. Although is not likely to be an issue in practical use, as no one is going to abuse their survival knife as shown here, if the gimping was polished after machining, to remove any sharp angles, then the blade wouldn't fracture so easily. Also, heat treatment is very important with D2, for the best results.

[@SurvivalLilly]

yes it is probably no problem, but I have seen D2 steel knives breaking when batoning too. So they are kinda brittle.

[@owenmorse3136]

D2 is a hunters knife 🔪.

[@andreas_rr]

I got the S1 and i'm really happy with it. You just need to be aware of the steel being a bit softer and needing more care (i.e. resharpening) but i dont think a harder steel is a good choice for larger knives. For smaller knives i'd still prefer something like a M390 which is just a great steel especially for knives that are meant for being really sharp and for a long time (without compromising the corrosion resistance at all). But yea, thats not what you'd need in a larger knife.

[@happydog4929]

I like the AUS8 for outdoors but I'm starting to like very thin carbon steel for cooking. Good video thank you.

[@richardelliott9511]

Lilly, I appreciate the confirmation of your design parameters. The fact that you keep getting the same results proves your theory and stengthens my confidence in choosing the APO1. I was also impressed with the sheath design. It is not just the typical kydex sheath but has features that deserve to be showcased better. I think you might do well to do a comparrison with the other sheaths too.

[@JCOwens-zq6fd]

Well done. Ive done survival all over myself & i would absolutely agree w/ your assessments. At the end of the day though i think it comes to whats best for you & what your going to be doing. I prefer carbon steel in most all cases but i have very 4 very specific reasons for choosing it. 1)centuries of proven toughness 2) i can reforge it in field if i need to 3) if all my other ignition sources fail I can get sparks from my knife & a rock 4) its easy to sharpen even if im tired & weak. Incidentally 1095 is best for shorter blades but i prefer 1075 for longer ones. Just my 2 cents on the matter i guess.

[@arthurleslie9669]

I’m still using my knives from the 60’s that I only know are carbon steel. I have never needed to change nor have I ever felt the need to know about them. They still perform and hold a great edge. What else do I really need to know? I was recently gifted a new knife though, so I guess that perhaps I should see what I can learn about what I was given whether I ever plan to use it or not.

[@QuantumMechanic_88]

Trying to order the AOS online and seeing "Sold Out" is no longer a surprise. I wish more people were familiar with the term - Ductility. The ability for a blade to flex and return to its' original geometry without breaking. All the best to you in all future endeavors , from an old mechanical engineer, knife maker and machinist.

[@craigleewhite6317]

Survivallilly. When you designed your knives you were showing off. Your keeping the best knife design for yourself. Craig the piece of thin 9ft stainless steel chain guy here;) with seperate grappling hook in a secret Cornish woods with some rope. Skipping with the stainless chain made the skin wore my fingers to the bone. Having make some thin alluminium handles from thin poles, beating those on so the chain stays. Now skipping is made easier, taking my fitnesses to take on COVID-19 to a higher level. You can easily beat it with any of your knives but the broken blade will not help:) Thank you Survivallilly. What next Survivallilly?

[@rodneymiddleton1044]

Lilly , I 'am a hobby knife maker down here in Australia and I use a lot of high carbon steels from 1075, 1080 , 1084 & SUP9 or other wise called spring steel . I would like to know what the grain looks like inside that broken knife . Whether or not it looks rough would mean that it was not heat treated very well and the smoother the better . Most knives are not made for such punishment even though there are some really great knife makers which can make very tough blades which wont break with some rough use .As to the surface condition to your blades pictured I was some what shocked that no care has been given to them such as washing in warm soapy water and drying the blade then rubbing some vegetable oil over the blades to prevent rusting . There are ways to coat high carbon steel blades such as a hot vinegar soak for an hour or sending them of to be ceracoated one could also use demineralized water and ferric acid after the blade has had it's heat treatment and hardened to whatever HRC desired . This is definitely a ppe process with gloves & proper face mask as the fumes are very dangerous also bicarbonate soda is needed for washing your blade after putting in ferric solution . The ferric solution should be kept in a glass jar with a good lid and labelled with a Warning Sign and kept out of reach from children. Stay safe and look forward to your next video 😁

[@russellvonastel7111]

Thanks Lilly,another great video

[@timhess6720]

I have the same opinion as a few others who have posted comments here as in they both have their place. Harder steels for smaller knives for more delicate precision work and softer for the larger knife for heavier more abusive jobs. I have a few of each. I still need to get out and use the APO1S a little more but the little I have used it carving and batoning or just cutting up dinner it has proven to be a very nice blade so far. I have found the APO1S to have a more comfortable grip than some of my other survival knives as well. Well done Lilly with the steel choice and design! Keep up the great work!

[@DavidRussell323]

the sounds with the concrete and pipe tests were so nice

[@rrrt01]

I have the APO1, love it! Keeps it edge very well. NOT going to bang on any concrete blocks any time soon. Going on 2 years now, pretty much the best fixed blade I own.

[@macgyver1952]

The hardest thing to achieve in D2 steel is hardening, especially tempering. If the tempering is not done at the right temperature and in the right time, the result is in your hands. It is very unlikely to have to cut metal pipes in survival, or in bushcraft, this has never happened to me. Ciao!!

[@CS-in3pg]

Dearest Lilly, Congratulations on reaching your 1 Million viewers mark!! You are the Best!!! 😊

[@doubled3983]

Hello from Oklahoma! Thanks to all the knife snobs that drove this young lady to do a destruction test. Interesting Video! Thanks for all U do Lilly!👍👍 God Bless!

[@Eichhoernchenschreck]

To be fair, K110 isn't that tough, but it holds it's edge pretty well. If you want powdered steels that are hard to damage, try something like magnacut, cpm3v delta or cpm1v. The last one should be the most difficult to break. However, I don't think edge retention or even toughness are that important in a survival situation, as long as you know how to use your tool. However, ease of sharpening is. So in my opinion you should always have at least one softer knife with you. If it gets dull, you still can sharpen it on a rock. Good luck trying this with someting like magnacut. But of course your blade also has to deliver the right thickness, length and geometry for the job.

[@terrybest8973]

Yes you are so right I like 1095 and aus 8

[@roadsareoptional8670]

I specifically searched out a D2 knife for deer hunting, for which it works very well. I would agree that for a survival knife, a tougher steel is better even if you need to sharpen it more often.

[@petezahrbock9931]

Sweet video Lillly. Keep up the good work.

[@lylesmith5079]

I really appreciate your test. I have some AUS 8 knives. I have read that they are not good for holding an egde. You showed that this is in fact an excellent steel.

[@theseekerndestroyer]

And they say sk85 and aus8 are just fancy term for Japanese steel. I say BS, she just proved it that it’s all in the heat treat and the expertise of the maker. Great video, love it.

[@aklelitecorp]

Great video. AUS8 has always been my favourite.

[@larryeddings3185]

I have owned and used the original APO-1 in both SK85 and AUS8 for about 3 years. Both knives have served me very well. The design is excellent and the fit and finish is first rate. While I have no plans to subject them to these sort of tests, I am very confident about their durability and usefulness.

[@chrisgalvin6703]

If you’re relying on a knife to survive you surely don’t want it to break. Purchased a Aus8 steel knife. Even though it might get dull it’s still usable if it broke I’d be in a world of hurt. That’s the great test that you performed it makes me feel confident in the purchase of your Knife.

[@robertmansell2398]

AUS-8 & SK85 should prove to be reliable steels. Optimum hardness should be 55 to 57 Rockwell C with hard spring temper.

[@ptouchpaul]

Thanks Lilly, best blade I have is the Esee 4 1095 carbon steel with a lifetime guarantee.

[@joetrippi7356]

Why am I not surprised Lilly cuts open her sausages with a giant survival knife?

[@glennnewell2786]

Great test Lilly , I use 1095 steel in my camp knife . Thanks for your time! Love your channel in Texas !

[@orowock1]

Great respect for your testing efforts, but keep in mind one company's Aus 8 is different from the next. Just as Buck has almost perfected the hardening process with boss 420 stainless the next company may not be as resilient. In short it's not always the steel but how it's heat treated.

[@davidcarter8457]

Thank you Lilly. This is informative. I have your 1S and I’m quite fond of it. With luck we will see how well it does cutting up a Bison.

[@danieljones2183]

Knife testing like none other! Good job Lily. Just wondering, how difficult to sharpen those knives again and can they be restored to a useable edge?

[@SurvivalLilly]

JOE X is testing knives like no other. Check him out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mGXcn5R3naejiM0

[@danieljones2183]

@@SurvivalLilly I just watched Joe x destroy your knife. I've been thinking about purchasing one now I must have one. Thank you!

[@awesomereviews1561]

CPM D2 fixes the issue

[@davedunks4647]

can't believe how fast the black apo1s sold out, I snagged an uncoated one however. It is PERFECTLY balanced. Love it

[@preppingpenguin]

Nice comparison, nice to see how you came to the decision of the APO1S I am so fond of in my bag. Have a great day stay well stay prepped

[@fgallogallo7]

Personally I stay away from the super steals. I am 65 years old and have been using buck knives with their 420 HC for over 48 years they’ve never failed me. Stay safe

[@armenarakelian9876]

Brilliant test great video thank you

[@anonymous19172]

When i was young and stupid, i tried to mimic the buck knife ad, put the knife's edge, against a bolt, hit it with a hammer. Result; 1 dead buck. I use d2. I take care of my knives and firearms, don't need, or like stainless. My rifles, all have walnut stocks, don't like plastic. That's me.

[@merlingeikie]

Love walnut. Who treats knives like that?

[@praticle]

Could you do a video on sharpening in the field? From everything you've shown it definitely seems that 57 +/-1 is the way to go, but how sharp can one get it in, say, a post-apocalyptic scenario?

[@blueduck9409]

You can take the rusty knife to a bench grinder with a wire wheel on it, and it will clean the rust off. Use a cloth buffing wheel to smooth out any pitting caused by rust.

[@jacobpeterson1165]

This would be great to see in 12c27 or AEB-L

[@kurtsteiner8384]

Just a point if you touch the blade with your hand. It will turn it rusty. Also in salt water it will turn it rusty. If you clean your knives after use and oil them, they wont turn rusty. And oil them from time to time when not in use, this will also prevent them rusting. Hope it helps

[@Jagerhunter71]

Hi there.. you mentioned the knife for made in Japan but Taiwan was stamped on the blade? can you clarify things please.. cheers.

[@SurvivalLilly]

Steel from japan. Knife made in taiwan

[@Jagerhunter71]

@@SurvivalLilly thank you for the clarification I have discovered your channel in recent months and you provide some great information cheers..

[@tominnorcal]

Good test. Thanks!

[@Outdoor_Steiermark]

Wird in Zukunft auch ein neues Messer kommen?

[@robinfielding1108]

Wonder what a chrome Molly tool steal blade would do? Thank you for that

[@OehlJim]

I wouldn't bash the K110 too bad. No one, even in a survival situation will treat it as bad as you did in testing...we will treat it as if it were the last sharp thing we will ever see. Good test though! Thanks.

[@kinggorman4494]

That was a good test. I agree that in a survival situation a tough blade is the way to go. I have one of your knives and love it. Congratulations on both your marriage and going over the 1m mark. You deserve it.

[@ferdelancelebienveillant1499]

I would have a preference for Steels, like a 60Ni20, a new steel for forging damask and which contains enough carbon to take a good temper. and enough nickel to stay very clear after the reveal.

[@hawk1481]

over 4 week ago ordered AUS8 from CP hope to see it soon

[@N2freedom]

For survival I would take the softer steel. It probably would do better in very cold conditions.

[@Twilightzoneisreal]

D2 has its place. Did you see that edge compared to the other 2. All these different steels have their place according to the application use. Thanks!

[@jimmillward3505]

great vid lilly

[@killitngrillit922]

Awesome video 👍

[@nordicson2835]

I only use my Kbar ( 3 of them ) , but it was good to see the tests you put these knives through. Thank you for your informative and enjoyable posts.

[@frxa2739]

Awesome test!! it makes you rethink D2, but it will be super fun to see you restore the banged up knives back to their sharpest states... thnx Lilly

[@stevemayeske4212]

I have your original AUS8 AP1. I loved it very much, but the handle screws came loose and were lost. How can I find new ones? Can you. Send me some?

[@SurvivalLilly]

Please send me an email [e-mail]

[@Broken-Nation]

what good is the edge, if the knife got split in north and south.

[@DDDYLN]

@SurvivalLilly, gave you ever tested a Steel Will Argonaut in AUS 8 steel? They aren't full exposed tang like your knife, but they seen decent.

[@FreedomSeekers-09]

Where can I find these knives?

[@xiaoabrose]

You should include more competitive steels. Comparing budget steels and then against an unrealistic test on a steel bar. AEB-L for stainless or CPM-3v for semi-stainless will outperform AUS-8 in any test. (I hear you delete negative comments - let's see)

[@martinhafner2201]

CPM 3V would be a better super steel to compare to SK85 and AUS8. Same carbon content, but better alloying elements and powder improvements in consistency. Tough as hell with decent edge retention. It is a little pricey though. The heat treat is a lot more complex and labor intensive.

[@scottdidonato4428]

Good one Lily!

[@kevlarmon54]

whats your opinion on Bucks line up of knives IN particular the 119 its a 440hc stainless steel i believe and have hollow grind not sure if ur into folding knives i tend to like them better for food or more detailed oriented things shaving, carving ect but yeah would like to hear what u think about there 110 folding buck knife and the 112 ranger

[@gregbarry5875]

is K110 the same as D2 ??

[@keltik0420]

CPM MagnaCut is a new steel that has good edge retention, very good toughness for a stainless steel, and excellent stainlessness. It looks like it's easily the best steel for most knife uses, though the priority of toughness for survival knives might mean other steels could be better for that specific purpose. Basically it's AUS-8 but better in every respect in terms of usability, except likely more difficult to sharpen.

[@keltik0420]

LC200N could also be an excellent survival knife steel, even better toughness than MagnaCut, though worse edge retention (comparable to AUS-8), and probably the best stainlessness of any quality knife steel. AEB-L could also be a very good steel for this purpose, even slightly better toughness than LC200N, similar edge retention, though only decent corrosion resistance, again similar to AUS-8. So basically AUS-8 in edge retention and stainlessness, but much tougher.

[@keltik0420]

14C28N may be another steel to consider, it looks very comparable to AEB-L, with excellent toughness but mediocre edge retention (again similar to AUS-8), and with better stainlessness... it's also relatively inexpensive I believe. So to summarize, on a scale of 1-10, the toughness (T), edge retention (E), and stainlessness (S): D2/K110: T-3.5, E-5, S-4.5 AUS-8: T-6, E-3, S-7 MagnaCut: T-7, E-5, S-9.5 LC200N: T-8.5, E-3, S-10 AEB-L: T-9, E-3, S-7 14C28N: T-9, E-3, S-8.5 So many steels, lol.. I'm no expert, I got these numbers from a knife steel metallurgist site (Knife Steel Nerds). Maybe look into some of these to see if they might work for your needs.

[@iruwild]

5160 is good, cheap, and easy to forge and heat treat and takes a very wicked edge..enough to shave with. I also like my fallkniven blades with COS steel..take crazy sharp edge

[@timparsons2741]

I love my ESEE 5 and the Tops Brakimo . And your Channel .

[@RuthieH_62]

Hey Lilly - Have you been watching Forged in Fire again...? 🤣🤣 That certainly was a destruction test! I love your content. Yours is one of the most interesting channels on YT. Thanks for all the hard work you put in to make this an awesome channel.

[@jamesparker6383]

I'm sorry to do this but I can't help myself, the knives are made in Taiwan not Japan it's stamped on the blades

[@Dookie69uk]

I guess lower HRC is best for a survival knife but if you're looking for edge retention then something like s90v or Maxamet is the way to go. There will never be one perfect knife it all depends on what the user wants from the knife. Thanks for your experiment though, very useful.

[@PileofBrass]

I have to add in, super steels are still good for survival knives because we don't expect to be using them in the manner you tortured tested them. Reasonable field use with any super steel will give stellar results.

[@andreasjonsson8075]

Are k110 the d2????

[@pakleader4]

SEE PEOPLE THATS a real test. That’s what I have been telling my Facebook family about knives. Your still good at what you do little lady. KEEP’EM coming. Never stop educating the public. Take care for now and thanks🤨🤓😉😘 Semper fi

[@grayman7208]

is k-110 the same as d2 ?

[@SurvivalLilly]

Yes it is the same

[@kingrafa3938]

Great knife test.

[@kenken-ss7jn]

Thats a stresstest, good info

[@joex]

hey Lilly, super cool test, my video about the APO 1S is going online today! greets!!!

[@SurvivalLilly]

that is great, I cant wait for it!

[@SurvivalLilly]

when you come back to Austria we make a video together :)

[@joex]

@@SurvivalLilly i will tell you for sure when i know it!!

[@johnwyman5939]

Crazy ,crazy crazy !!! Nice job testing .🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@jamesaigler285]

Hello again Lilly.thank u for this video.I have one of ur knives,I like it and recommend it

[@ryanblystone5153]

Thank you

[@DHL4Jesus]

Thank you Lilly. Very informative video. I have all kinds of blades but now realize the weakness of D2. I appreciate your videos:)

[@awesomereviews1561]

CPM D2 fixes the issue.