Detailed Explanation on How to Block Sand Primer Surfacer | High Build Primer

Gives a detailed, clear explanation on how to block sand primer surfacer or high build primer so that your body panels turn out perfectly straight with clean sharp body lines.
/ @lakesideautobody

[@dukeallen432]

Yes I did enjoy watching every minute. Exactly as I'd want to see such a procedure explained. No music, no drama, no selfies, just straight information. I'm trying this body work thing again after shelving from lack of talent 30 years ago. Blocking was my challenge. Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - glad it helped - feel free to ask ?'s along the way - I get to the comments each day.

[@deankay4434]

A Tech Tip; To create and keep body lines stamped into the door skin, use masking tape on one side only. As you sand, you get close to the body line and the tape will show. Wipe clean with 70% isopropyl alcohol and place tape on opposite side and sand to meet it. It make a visual reference much easier to see. ASE Master Tech - Retired

[@patrickpeterman4890]

You are a GOD send to us newbies!! thanks again, PATRICK.P

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - glad you find them useful - have a good week

[@GMCTIM]

Get into 50 year old Cars & Trucks 2k is a MUST !

[@danielleach2307]

Looks great like to see your method of final sanding before paint

[@LakesideAutobody]

On this one I buzzed down the large open flat areas (220 grit) with that DA I showed at the beginning of the vid. Then hand sanded around the body lines with that same sheet of 220 DA paper folded in half and scuffed the rest of the door. I had just a Saturday to paint it so I was sort of in a hurry. Really should wet sand by hand with 320-400 grit. I did do a video on applying a mist or drop coat during the job so I'll be posting that soon. I will do a video on final sanding though. Thanks for watching - Happy Holidays

[@Okie-Tom]

Nice work Jerry. A lot of people just don't know just how much hard work it is to get a panel or whole car ready for paint! Tom

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks 👍 Yes especially if you want that thing straight. Wow! Lots of work.

[@Okie-Tom]

Jerry, I have a technical question. I have seen several KZbin videos that say you need to spray your high build polyester or 2K primer. After drying, block sand with 220 grit down until you hit bare metal. Then re-guide coat and block with 320 grit. But, I have always read when you hit metal never sand any more! I thought then you would need to re-prime and sand more. But on your final prime how do you do your final sanding without hitting metal? I appreciate your help. Tom

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Okie-Tom Let's say you did some body work - here's the process: 1) block sand with 120-150 (sometimes I even use 80 for large areas if I want to cut through instead of ride over). Folks will scoff at the 80 but don't listen - it works just fine if you stay off the paint. You stop when there is no more un-sanded primer (no low unsanded areas). The instant you hit metal though, you have to stop or that will end up a high spot (wave). When everything is good, prime for final sanding. Finish sand by hand or da 320-400 by hand (wet or dry) 220-240 w/ DA. If you accidentally sand through anywhere you can hit it with a light coat of primer before painting and just sand it real light with sand paper or scuff pad to make sure it's smooth (no dust nibs) before paint. I use a cheap spray bomb can of primer for any sand throughs.

[@Okie-Tom]

Thank you Sir! I know I will have more questions! Lol!

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@Okie-Tom You're welcome - feel free to ask whatever :)

[@direct998]

Hey it's me again . I addressed the problem areas with more body filler , sanded and more primer surfacer . now according to this video I don't need to use any more filler for low spots? You had low spots but didn't use any filler . Will the primer fill the low spots and the areas where filler came through ?

[@danielleach2307]

Thanks for sharing the details and getting back to me 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome

[@rcs0296]

I enjoy every video, have you ever thought about working in a large shop just to train people?

[@LakesideAutobody]

I haven't, but if there was the opportunity around me (where I live), I would try it. I'm so glad to hear you like all the videos Richard - have a good weekend :)

[@robbyddurham1624]

so many good tips for us novice folks. I've always wondered how people could make a body look so smooth. I thought they were magicians. I still thing they are.

[@LakesideAutobody]

I used to think that too when my dad took me to body shops he worked at. One shop was was called JR's Custom Paint in Utica, MI (probably long gone now) - They did custom vans and Corvettes - Air brushed mermaids, waterfalls, pirates, all kinds of stuff - then they cleared the heck out of it and wheeled it like a mirror. To me they were magicians - awesome art.

[@Dustyfingers]

I primed on some tricky curved grill now I have low spots. Go back at low spots with bondo? These low spots are tooth pick dots

[@LakesideAutobody]

That or putty.

[@patrickchristie82]

Best intro yet!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - have a great weekend :)

[@eapauto]

Another good one Jerry!

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks - Happy Holidays :)

[@eapauto]

Lakeside Autobody Happy holidays to you too Jerry!

[@geoffreyrawlings9736]

Blocking seems simple but its not .another good video.Thanks

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - blocking takes practice for sure - you'll get good once you know what you are looking for.

[@andresarjoo8347]

Great explanation. One question, isn’t 80/120 too aggressive for high build primer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

A lot of critics will say yes but I say no. The general rule is you have to use what cuts then go back over it with finer grit - less work, straighter results, faster, and less frustrating. Just don't get to aggressive. Hope that helps

[@6655nico]

Lakeside Autobody your right , I let the primer site few days then I usually guide coat then 80/180, block then re prime .... the primer will then have time settle and get to were its going

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@6655nico Yep - it's good to let it "get to where it's going" - unless you're using a two part primer of some kind - it's going to stay put when it hardens.

[@LukeWaters]

awesome video! Currently replacing a rusty fender on my pontiac g8, and I was having issues getting the curve looking good

[@LakesideAutobody]

Cool car - good looks. Let me know how it goes for you :)

[@LukeWaters]

@@LakesideAutobody will do! Gonna record and upload a video on it tomorrow lol

[@ramcentralstation]

if you hit metal what would be your next step? hammer the high spot down?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Right - tap the high spot down. Then you can fill with either 2K spot putty, old fashion red glazing putty or even regular filler

[@geoffreyrawlings9736]

Hi just found your channel. Excellent info easy to understand thanks.also can you please show how to recreate body lines that have diserpeared due to damage and applying bondo. Thanks

[@PHARRAWAY]

Nice work brother

[@discreetfire]

Epic.

[@Okie-Tom]

Nice work. As the good body men say, " The Block Doesn't Lie"! To

[@LakesideAutobody]

Yes especially one with a harder pad - wow!

[@tikisteve3968]

Great explanations 👍👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks Tiki Steve - cool name :)

[@husky1232]

Hello just subscribed to your channel look forward seeing more of your videos and I like how you explained everything and also you used simple blocks thank you sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome - you don't need expensive or fancy tools to be a good body man / painter - that's for sure - glad you liked it

[@paulmcdonald3570]

Rookie body guy question: so on your low spot if it didn’t sand out do you just add some filler to correct it?

[@LakesideAutobody]

Good question. Yes and my fault for not having that in a video yet but I'll make one on that soon. If you use a cheese grater on the second coat of filler it eliminates the chance of you taking off more filler on the first coat - 'cause maybe you have that perfect and don't want to mess it up. In other words, it cuts the new layer but not the old. Then just finish it up with the block. 40 then 80 or just 80 grit

[@robbyddurham1624]

@@LakesideAutobody I've wondered how guys get it done with just one skim. I've tried and made some messes, but they were good enough for what I was working on. I never had any training. I might get some practice here in a couple weeks.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@robbyddurham1624 It really depends on the severity of the dent. Real bad ones you're not going to get in one swipe - you might even have to touch it up in spots a few times. Some are one and done and you feel lucky that day. It don't matter though as you bounce from one task to another while this spot is hardening you work on another etc. Like cooking Sunday breakfast :)

[@rohithdeevi4739]

Great video. Thank you sir

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome my friend - glad you enjoyed it :)

[@markmikheyev6730]

Have you ever tried the durablock blocks for blocking primer?

[@LakesideAutobody]

No I haven't - do you like them? You have to use sticky paper with them right?

[@markmikheyev6730]

Yes they are sticky paper. You can get a roll of 320 and 400 and that’s basically all you need for primer in my opinion. The rolls last pretty long. So I feel you get your moneys worth. Dura block also has Velcro durablocks for bodywork. That’s all I use unless the panel is dead flat I use a reinforced block. They work great in my opinion because they have a little flex which you need for curves on fenders and such

[@markmikheyev6730]

You can buy both sets of blocks on amazon for around 120$

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@markmikheyev6730 Thanks, I'll check them out. Happy Holidays

[@randymack1782]

@@LakesideAutobody I cut 2 paint sticks from hourglass shape down, sometimes just a shortie then wrap lengthwise with masking tape & wrap with wet dry paper. I notice you hold wood block backwards? I actually hold handle with it backwards & rest against my arm, even air powered, cant explain why, just something I did in my youth & works for me. but never see people using it backwards. I been fussed at, but then told as long as finished product is straight they would leave me alone

[@mplscarsales6652]

Can you do a video like this showing you blending the paint into existing panel that would be great . Thanks in advance

[@LakesideAutobody]

Let me know if this helps you out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/j4WYkJxjdtiMaqc

[@timgiesin4025]

I like your videos very informative

[@LakesideAutobody]

Thanks

[@hddm3]

Awesome

[@user-2Hteyasizyc]

If its called high build primer shouldnt it fill in the minor low spots on its own? especially after blocking it? Makes no sense to me.

[@LakesideAutobody]

High build means that it builds but not like filler or putty. That being said, it's not going to fix or be the cure for spots that are too low. It's really probably only 3 sheets of paper thick. Feather fill primer surfacer is real thick and is used for removing more serious low spots and crooked body work. Hope that helps a bit :)

[@donaldbaker6961]

Thank you huge help 👍

[@LakesideAutobody]

Glad it helped :)

[@6655nico]

Brilliant vid..... how long the primer sit for , before blocksanding

[@LakesideAutobody]

This was 3 medium coats of lacquer primer and it was about 70-75 degrees. I let it set just over an hour. It's better to wait longer though - if you can wait till the next day that will assure you that it's good and ready to block sand. I'm a bit impatient though and usually sand it as soon as I'm able.

[@6655nico]

Lakeside Autobody ok but that doesn't give the filler/ primer chance to "set " get to were it's going other wise you get sinkage

[@6655nico]

I'd have blocked 80 then 180 reprinted etc

[@antimpala1]

So I got all my parts to Bare metal, from my understanding fix all dent with filler now an prime everything. Do you use filler primer or epoxy primer? Then block-sand with 80 grid, wet sand, then paint or did I miss something?

[@LakesideAutobody]

After you have finished your filler work you will prime (3 wet coats) with a "primer surfacer". You can use 2k urethane primer surfacer or lacquer primer surfacer. Epoxy primer is no a high build type of primer - it's more of a primer/sealer. Next, you can block sand with 80 grit if it's a large area and you want it done quick or 120 grit for smaller areas. You will then prime again, let it dry, finish sand with 220-240 on a DA or wet sand with 320-400 (wet sand paper). Now you're ready to paint. Hope that helps :)

[@antimpala1]

@@LakesideAutobody Just making sure.. did you mean finish Sand with 220-240 on a DA then wet sand with 320-400? Or I can do either or?

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@antimpala1 You can do either. I would hand sand if you're not super confident in getting it right with the DA. Wet sanding by hand is good because there's less dust, and the paper stays sharp and clean. Lastly you can dry sand by hand too if you don't like wet sanding but the paper tends to clog fast. Here's a video on wet sanding and preparing for paint: kzbin.info/www/bejne/eHWXpauGrM-mnKs

[@brianb5779]

Do you have to use primer sealer? Or does it matter if your not going to paint soon? Just trying to figure if you need to use sealer or not. Thanks a million

[@LakesideAutobody]

You do not need sealer.

[@brianb5779]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you sooo much, been dying to know this

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@brianb5779 You're welcome - we never used sealer at one shop I worked at in the 80's - this Kia was sprayed w/ no sealer and held up just fine - see these two vids - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aHmWhnt5nLaoaLM 1-2 years later - kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn7Wl2qQiqaXl5I Glad I could answer that for you :)

[@brianb5779]

@@LakesideAutobody AWSOME AWSOME,,, you have been such a enormous help. Ive finally busted my cherry w your help and guidance, its not perfect so far but when it comes time for my hot rods ill have more experience by doing now what im doing.

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@brianb5779 That's great to hear - keep working at it - you never stop getting better :)

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

Beautiful explanation Jerry Jerry I have learned so much it's unbelievable I did a repair on a 69 Firebird for somebody on his Fender if you'll see my 2nd to last video you'll see what I'm talking about thank you and please keep on teaching

[@LakesideAutobody]

You're welcome Luis - I'll check it out. Thanks for always watching and for you kind words :)

[@LakesideAutobody]

I just checked it out Luis - nice job! That's a beautiful car. I can see it's going to turn out really nice. Jerry

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you for sharing your skills now I have some when it comes auto body work It's not easy but at the endiane you feel real good you did a whole car When will you be making a video on a classic car I'm Dying for one

[@LakesideAutobody]

@@firstgenerationgarage2803 You're welcome my friend. I would love to do a video on a classic car but I can't find my favorite one and I'm not settling for anything less :) I want a 1971 Satellite/Roadrunner. I could also go with the 72 but 71's are my favorite. When I find one that is not a complete disaster, and they are not charging a fortune for it - it's game on! Jerry

[@firstgenerationgarage2803]

@@LakesideAutobody OK now that I know I'll keep an eye out for you I love classic muscle cars I own 67 68 and 69 Firebird

[@RX7GSLSEowner]

Jerry, after sanding the primer-surfacer which type of primer do you apply next? Can you use a primer-sealer at that point? And if so, should you finish sand the primer-sealer or go straight to paint? Thanks!

[@LakesideAutobody]

After block sanding, you will be left with 80-150 grit scratches depending on what paper you used. Next step is to prime again with some type of sandable primer (urethane, epoxy, or lacquer) - what ever system you're using. Once it dries, you can wet or dry sand it to 220-400 grit then paint or seal and paint. This video may help. Lacquer primer can be used for every step in the process - mix it thick for block sanding - mix it thinner for finish sanding. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppu7nJufZqpqnrM

[@RX7GSLSEowner]

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! I'll watch that video. Do you have a video regarding primer-sealer? Do you sand primer-sealer or just paint over it? Appreciate the help Jerry! I haven't looked at this stuff since high school and hand forgotten most of what I learned. I need to repaint my wife's car soon and am preparing by watching your videos!

[@timkz6598]

Привет из Казахстана, очень нравится... Могли дать адрес или сайт организации где продают материалы и инструменты ??? Для ремонта автомобиля...

[@LakesideAutobody]

Здравствуйте, приятно слышать от вас. Мне нравится Ebay или Autobodytoolmart www.autobodytoolmart.com/?gclid=CjwKCAiArJjvBRACEiwA-Wiqq2F7HENjHw5bYCpBagDVaKXsyS4eqJAdsTsa8tJ_Jn7lbH-yzEiZwBoC0oUQAvD_BwE

[@direct998]

Never mind I read the replies

[@harryworden2019]

80 grit on primer 🤔🤔🤔🤔

[@LakesideAutobody]

Absolutely - guys that didn't do this would sand all day. On a large area for sure. Give it a quick coat of primer again and hit it with 120 or 180. Body shops pay commission so if you're slow you make no $ - I constantly thought of ways to speed it up to make more $ - much easier and blocks it straighter too (cuts doesn't ride over). The internet has a lot of "safe" methods to do things - they're not always the best way or best quality.

[@6655nico]

You primed s hour ago...... if it's 2k I'd leave longer to "set"

[@LakesideAutobody]

I used lacquer primer but yes you should wait longer.

[@ForceBuilt]

@@LakesideAutobody What grit do you finish your bondo with? Years ago when I painted cars all we used was Lacquer primer. It looked great for a few months then scratches would show back up. I have now since refined my methods and use 2k primers and the problem is gone. Do you have shrinkage and scratches showing back up? thanks

[@WH6FQE]

Using that light dusting of black spray paint is a good idea to highlight the lower areas. Great tip.

[@pepeshopping]

Prefer the Russian, Arthur, done perfectly and WITHOUT putty/filler!!

[@markmikheyev6730]

All his work uses filler in the end. Minimum filler but it’s still used. Body filler can last longer then the life of a car if used correctly