Honda Odyssey Front Brake Rotor & Pad Install 2005 - 2010

[@jimmykohles9542]

The day you sell and no longer make videos featuring your Honda Odyssey is a day I will cry. Changed both back and front brakes & rotors yesterday and these videos made the job happen. Thanks a million.

[@dial2fast]

Very good to hear, and thanks for sharing!!

[@GR8GUY54]

Jimmy Kohles what year Odyssey? If you had to do all over again, anything you would do differently to make it perfect? never done it before but definitely due. Steering wheel shakes when pressing brakes.

[@jimmykohles9542]

GR8GUY54 2010. So, it took about 3 hours for the first one, bc I was being super careful to follow all the steps correctly. I would make sure you have all the right tools before you start. I had to run to the store twice to get stuff I thought I had in the toolbox, but didn't. Once that first one was done the other three were done in an hour. I would prob be more careful when compressing the calipers, too. I noticed that the brake fluid that got pushed back into the reservoir was pretty murky, so I prob need a fluid replacement/flush.

[@jimmykohles9542]

I will also say, my shimmy was gone immediately. Felt like a million bucks to have my car back to normal.

[@GR8GUY54]

Jimmy Kohles thanks! I have all the tools here except the one to push the piston back.

[@ngongnganga6708]

Thank you so much for your thorough explanation of the whole process. I changed my front and rear brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Honda odyssey. I bought your recommended spare parts and they arrived with no issues whats soever. This was 4 months ago by the way. I did have issues removing that one screw they use for the manufacturing process but after that I was a pro...I have told all my buddies that I clearly knew what I was doing. You empowered me and I am empowering others. We just finished changing My brother in-law's wheel hub assembly on his Chevy Avalanche. I never thought I was a car-fixing-dude. You are saving hard working people big $$$$! Thanks and keep up the good work!

[@dial2fast]

It's comments like yours that make me very happy. Good for you on learning to do this.

[@dtrrtd774]

When applying the lube to the retaining clips, it wasn't necessary to put it on the back area as much as it is on the contact groove surface where the pads actually ride in when installed. That's where the pads need to slide around during operation, and if it binds up, it'll cause problems with excessive drag and wear. Using a Q-tip to apply instead of the big brush will make it easier to get it in the needed area without getting it all over the place. It's good to pull the slide pins out from the rubber boot and get fresh lube in there, as that's also critical for smooth movement of the caliper. When retracting the caliper pistons, it's best to open the bleed screw on the caliper and run a tube from it to a receptacle. That gets rid of the part of the fluid that's degraded the most, instead of pushing it back up into the lines. That allows you to add fresh brake fluid to the system through the master cylinder, if you don't intend to flush and change the fluid. It would actually be best to change the fluid at this time though, since fresh fluid goes a long way in keeping things working well, and everything is all set up to do that. Another note- when pumping up the brakes to take up the gap from the pads to rotor, use very small strokes on the brake pedal- don't push it all the way to the floor. If your master cylinder is in less than perfect shape, it may have developed deposits on the cylinder that the piston normally doesn't travel beyond, and if it's forced past it, it could degrade the seals, necessitating an unexpected master cylinder replacement.

[@thefirebeanie5481]

Dats a lot

[@alexandersilvar]

That's not bad at all, put a little grease in the retaining clips back area is good to prevent oxidation.

[@justinfincher2385]

Fantastic tips! I’m definitely going to be doing all of that! I usually just glop that grease on there, never really thought about using a q tip

[@sat_sonic]

Excellent tips for everyone. The person making the video I believe actually forgot to lubricate the caliper pins.😅

[@kenc3969]

2012 Odyssey... It all started with watching this front pad video (still applicable). Since then it's rolled to the transmission fluid change, an oil change, servicing my wife's 2016 Fit, and giving me the confidence to work on my old 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee! Thank you for your confidence inspiring well explained postings! You are awesome!

[@dtrrtd774]

One tip on jack stand use; if you cut up your old tires with a reciprocating saw, you can make indestructible jacking pads to cushion the jacking points from the hard metal of the jack stands. I have stacks of them and they work great for all sorts of things, from shimming things with non slip grip, to motorcycle side stand pads in soft ground like asphalt or dirt, to floor jack saddle cushioning. Placing it on top of the jack stand spreads out the contact point from that narrow lift point on the side of the car, which is set up for the emergency jack with the groove in it.

[@berlymahn]

by far one of the best instructional videos I have seen. doing my front brakes, and axles, this weekend. thank you.

[@OCregulator]

This is an OUTSTANDING and PROFESSIONAL instructional video!!! Thank you. I truly appreciated the straight forward, by-the-numbers method of teaching which covered everything I needed to get the job done right, the first time, with no unnecessary commentary. Great camera positions and lighting. The $10 impact screwdriver from Harbor Freight was probably the best money ever spent. The front rotor screws (only 1 on each side of my 2012 Odyssey) were on Superman tight from the factory. I tested it on a piece of wood to be sure it was oriented the proper way (to loosen the screw) before using it. Thanks again so much & keep up the quality videos! Cheers!

[@nuccten]

I might add that if you are having trouble removing the rotors (as I did) there are two small threaded holes in the rotor. Place a bolt in each hole and gradually tighten each one and the rotor should pop off. Love these Hondas. Thanks for a great video with no air compressors or radio in the background!

[@dial2fast]

+nuccten Very good tip, thank you!!

[@sislau]

This video was EXCELLENT. I attacked my front brakes and rotors with my 17 year old son and we got them done! THANK YOU.

[@dial2fast]

Great to hear you and your son was able to do this brake job!

[@philwarner6604]

This was the best video I found before I replaced the front pads on our 2010 Odyssey Touring. I did the "tapping" of a wrench on the 19mm nut to both loosen and to tighten the 14mm bolts using a large rubber mallet and a long wrench which seemed pretty tight, but a few days later we heard a rattle under the front end which turned out to be caused by the lack of a lower bolt in the right front caliper. I removed and wire brushed the remaining bolts and reinstalled them with lock-tite 242 on the threads and torqued to 50 foot pounds equivalent to the 71.5 joules for a 10mm grade 10.9 bolt. (I assumed the 10 embossed on the heads was the grade and not the diameter.) I would recommend the use of lock-tite and using a torque wrench to reinstall these bolts rather than the unspecified tapping on the 19mm nut. Oh yes, the missing bolt? My wife had said she heard "something fall off the car" as she was turning on the road to our house two days ago and I had checked to make sure all my wrenches were accounted for, but after discovering the missing bolt we went back where she had heard the noise and actually found the bolt in the grass along the road - "even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then".

[@kimberblake4215]

Phil Warner is 50 foot lbs the correct torque spec for the caliper bolts? I could have swore in the video he said 102 foot lbs. Sounds excessive to me though. Thanks

[@philwarner6604]

I based the 50 foot pounds on the torque spec for a grade 10 bolt of that size. I've since read that the Honda torque spec for the slider bolts is 37 foot pounds. I think the 102 is for the caliper bracket bolts and not the ones you take off to remove the calipers to put new pads in them. Whenever I have to do it again, I'll try to remember to use loc-tite and torque to 40 foot pounds.

[@jayhockley8841]

Nice video . And as someone else mentioned , you always need to pump the brake pedal a few times to reset the new brake pads . And here is a Tip I learned years ago . Whenever you remove a Wheel from a vehicle , place the wheel UNDER the Vehicle , as a backup jack stand . This can keep the vehicle from going all the way down If it falls or crushes down where the jackstands are , ( Ive had it happen in the rust belt ). " Its cheaper to replace a Rim Than to replace a Limb ".

[@jfens786]

That is, I think, the clearest well lighted and filmed instructional video I've ever viewed on utube. Thank you so much, I feel very confident in replacing my front brakes for the first time in my life after watching your video.

[@dial2fast]

+J Fens Thanks for your comment, and glad this video was helpful.

[@richb5478]

Dial2fast your awesome man I appreciate what you do!!

[@09valacity]

Single mom desperately too poor to afford to pay someone to do this. This video has given me the confidence to do this and save me money! Update to come

[@leislymejia2864]

outcome?

[@ianmackenzie2157]

Both your front and rear videos are the best you tube videos I have seen! Thank you so much!

[@LanceOlenik]

This video helped me do brakes for the 1st time in my life. Thanks! It went great!

[@bigjwood6910]

Thank you so much!!!! Mechanic told me almost $1000 to do front and rear

[@alexandersilvar]

Thank you, I did it yesterday following this video. Everything is working perfectly now. No more vibrations. thanks a lot.

[@marco1173]

Good tutorial. I'd just add that when mounting the rotor back on the hub, it is CRITICAL that the mating surface is clean of all rust or built up material and check for lateral runout. If not done, the rotors will develop uneven thickness after just a few thousand miles and you will get brake pedal pulsation or really bad judder.

[@workingallthetime8829]

This is a really good video, I don't understand who would give this a thumbs down, Google must pay someone to comb through videos to make sure there isn't a 100% like rating or something. I'm glad you included the size wrenches to use, it's a big help. I have seen countless auto repair videos where they leave out the materials and tools and never put it in the description. This is defiantly one of the best automotive repairs video's I have seen on here so far. Thank you for posting this.

[@dial2fast]

Working AllTheTime Really appreciate your comment. Thank you very much!

[@Roger161]

Perfect timing. I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey and i need to change out the front rotors and pads. Thank you for the tutorial. SUBSCRIBED !!

[@jasonmcelprang2864]

This video was great! Easy to understand and follow with plenty of detail. Best how to video I've seen and I watch a lot of how to videos!

[@themessygarage]

I'd only add that once the car is all buttoned up and on the ground again that you should gently pump the brakes a few times to bring the pistons out to the calipers. If you don't, you might not be able to stop well the first time you apply them (backing out of the driveway, for example...). Also, cleaning and re-lubing the slide pins with some Syl-Glide is a good idea for the job too. Cheers!

[@erybovic]

great video, at first I was going to skip because I saw 15 min, but glad I sat through it. Very clear and the correct way to do it. Thank you

[@jamesyoungblood5073]

Excellent video. 2013 Honda Odyssey that has front shimmy from the day I drove it off the lot. Just received the front rotors and pads from Brakemotive76 and will be installing them later this afternoon. Thanks to your video, I have all my tools ready, including my impact screwdriver.

[@jamesyoungblood5073]

Update, My Odyssey is a 2013 so it did have the spring pad seperators as mentioned in one of the past comments. I gave a suggestion on how to install these springs in that post. Also, for anyone who doesn't have any 19mm wrenches or sockets, you can use 3/4" in its place and that will work fine. If you recall the metric to SAE conversions, its 5/16"=8mm, 1/2"=13mm, 3/4"=19mm, 7/8"=22mm, and 1"=25mm.

[@josephchacon72]

Awesome video!!! I watched it over and over about 5 times. The next day when I went to do my brakes/ rotors It was such a breeze. Thanks.

[@dial2fast]

+joseph chacon Excellent to hear. Thanks for sharing!

[@michaelhovey8007]

Awesome tutorial. Just completed the front change with complete success.

[@HomseyFamilyVideos]

Thanks a bunch for your outstanding tutorials! There are many approaches to working on vehicles but it seems like you take the thorough and professional route, which is what so many of us newbie DIYers need. I've utilized your videos numerous times and saved a ton on maintenance.

[@dial2fast]

+HomseyFamilyVideos Cool, I am glad my video helped you! Thanks!

[@samsnow7370]

Very good point about the 2 screws to the rotors as the lug nuts to the hub would hold the rotors in place.

[@coloirishpadraig3783]

Great help! I couldn't find my Haynes book and your video kept it very straight forward. Thanks

[@waseemhussain8445]

I bought the same rotors and brake pads from ebay. They look to be of very nice quality. This video is gonna help me a lot while doing the upgrade. Thanks

[@hudsonvidal9117]

Great Video. Good job going through the stages with all of the details included. I just completed my front rotors and pads and after I pumped the brakes the brakes have remained clamped tight to the rotor? I tried driving away after putting all my tools away and the brakes are clamped tight. Any suggestions?

[@paulsantos2148]

Awesome video! Did my front brake pads and rotors last sunday. Your step by step instructions made it so easy. Thank you so much. I saved a lot of money by doing this. Bought some new tools with the savings. I installed the Powerstop pads and rotors. I will be doing the rear ones this coming weekend. Have a great day!

[@dial2fast]

+Dave Santiago Thanks for your feedback.

[@ronoswalt6003]

Terrific job documenting this brake upgrade - very nicely done! Video work is excellent and narration is top-notch. Currently doing this exact same upgrade to my vehicle and this video helped immensely by showing best location for floor jack and jackstands! Appreciate the embedded links to separate front & rear DIY videos.

[@dial2fast]

Thanks for your comment!

[@JCO847]

I like your videos. I've done the rears and will be doing the fronts soon. Couple comments that might help others 1) you use "brake grease" several places and then just text that you should clean the sliding pins. I used SILGLYDE everywhere as both my brake grease as well as my pin grease. Silglyde is better for the rubber boots of the pins and also works as a brake grease for the pads and shims. Then you can just buy one product. 2) For those having trouble with the rotor screws, I had luck with my 18V impact driver. Make sure you use a #3 Philips bit and not a #2. #2 is a "normal" screwdriver but is too small and will strip these screws. #3 is the correct size for these. Mine are 5 years old and came off with that, and I didn't need to spend money on a hand impact tool. I suggest reinstalling them because why not....helps hold the rotor fast while you are messing around with the brake caliper etc.

[@CigarMan4Life1]

Actually use a Vessel 125943 908 P3x150 JIS Impact screwdriver, or equivalent brand with a #3 JIS driving head. Rotor screws are not Phillips. They are Japanese Industrial Standard (JIS), which have a more pronounced angle with shorter flanges than Phillips. That's why so many folks strip these screws using a #3 Phillips screwdriver. Amazon has the Vessel for $12.41 with free shipping. A blow torch and BP Blaster may also be needed on 1st time removals.

[@G5Hohn]

Superb video. I’ve done brakes on my odyssey before and this is an excellent reference.

[@timothyehook4883]

Thanks for showing that. ..one thing that you didn't show are the "buttons" that the two 14mm bolts fit into must move freely in their sockets or the pads will stay pressed against the rotor after you let off on the break pedal... you'll be right back installing new pads because they wear out from it...the salt they use around here tends to corrode those "buttons" and we always have to pull them out, and clean em up with sandpaper and regrease them and make sure Theyre free to move back and forth.

[@timvu3095]

I recently replaced my 12 years old front brake rotors with 99K miles on them because they were warped and the steering shakes when I hit the brake hard at high speed. I bought a pair of Brembo rotors to change out the old ones on my car and don't go for these cheap slotted rotors on ebay, they are not doing that well in this van. I used a set of Akebono brakes pads to match with the Brembo and they work great and very quiet. Time will tell but I think the Brembo will hold up better then the OEM rotors because their non brake surfaces are coated so it won't rust as much. Both of my rotors rusted not only at the hub, the rim edge but also inside the air vanes. After the break in period, the brakes on my Ody now works much better than the OEM as I far I can remember. And yes, I put the philips screws back to hold the rotor in place but more importantly center it on the hub and I buy a few as spares to replace the rusty ones. I don't buy the BS that you don't need the screws, the rotors fit loosely over the hub and they can move in each direction at least 1/16". I will change out the rear rotors in the next few months and there is no doubt, the Brembo rotor will be on the top of the list.

[@dial2fast]

You will eventually learn. Brembo rotors... made in China

[@kiruvidhya]

awesome video. No questions after watching the video

[@jesseobi7854]

Great job man !!!!!!! I was a teacher and I am sure you will be an excellent teacher if you decide to join the profession.

[@dial2fast]

Really appreciate the comment. My regular job is actually support and training for customers at my company. That job has taught me lots about presentation. Thanks!!

[@glennkrzeminski7539]

Lengthy comment here. First off, let me thank Dial2fast. If not for your excellent video I would not have attempted the job and likely saved $400, at least. The cranks that follow are more about my particular experience than about your instructions and I absolutely endorse this video. That being said, there is a disconnect between what you see (no headaches) and my world. Your first problem arises when you have to choose brakes and rotors. There are many brands and price points and unless you are a mechanic, you will not have much luck discerning one from another. Keep in mind that if your car is old, like mine is, it may not make sense for you to pay up for 60,000 mile brakes. Second, this type of DIY job has a price limit. I think everyone’s is different but if I couldn’t get the job done for less than half the mechanic’s price it’s not worth it to me. That means, including new tool purchases, I had to keep my cost below, roughly, $250, brakes and rotors cost me $126 alone. Tools I didn’t have and products (lube, etc.) ran me the other $125. If you don’t have ALL the tools shown in the video then I HIGHLY recommend taking the additional step in first seeing if you can remove all of the bolts, ON BOTH SIDES, and only then proceeding the make the repair. It will do you no good to repair one side and then realize that you can’t remove the bolts on the other without another tool. You shouldn’t drive with mismatched brakes! Let me state that the biggest mistake I made was wanting to spend as little as possible and so I didn’t spend money on a rolling floor jack and jack stands. Instead, I attempted to use the jack that came with the van and every time the front tires left the ground the car’s weight would shift and often the van would fall off of the jack. It fell onto supports I had erected on the sides under the reinforced area shown in the video but the only way to then get the car off of those supports was more hit-and-miss jacking of the front end which caused the problem to begin with. Much, much wasted time, dents, danger, frustration and ultimately I ended up jacking one tire at a time. The real problem is that if your jack is about to fail there is NO safe, additional reinforced place for you to set the car down while you reposition the jack. You need to get it correct the first time! The next problem I noticed during the second time I removed the lug nuts. I noticed that one of the lug posts was colored red. This alerted me that the first time around I missed what I’m guessing is a tire alignment. I imagine that that red post was to align to one particular hole in the rim but there was no matching red on the rim so if I’m correct and this colored post was for balancing, then I messed up. Mark your lug post to a particular hole just in case. You should expect to have to drill out those flat-heat screws - I had to drill 3 out of 4. A cobalt ¼ inch bit will do the job if you keep the tip oiled and run at a fairly high speed. I drilled out all 4 holes just to keep things balanced. BTW, the screws are only about ½ inch long so don’t drill any further. The “pins” are the sliding posts under the rubber sheath on the caliper. The 19mm nut on the pin that he recommends loosening to make the 14mm bolt easier to remove would not budge, not a fraction. Indeed it dented my wrench. If you attempt this, you will need a 19mm open-ended wrench (it laughed at my adjustable wrench); however, I was finally able to loosed that 14mm bolt (third attempt, which means 3 days - each day buying a stronger tool: open-ended wrench and socket, pneumatic jack, and breaker bar) with my ½ inch socket wrench and a six-foot steel pipe that slid over the wrench to extend the leverage! The same solution will solve the 19mm bracket bolts. (No lie, these bolts do not want to come off!) (BTW, pinning the wheel hard left or right will greatly improve your access to those bolts and the tire WILL have room to be removed because if you are elevating one tire at a time you need to turn the wheel BEFORE you jack the car!) Lastly, I suspect that if you have to drill those screws out (they ridiculed my Harbor Freight hammer drive and proved to outlast the tool itself) the heat generated may weld the rotor to the housing. I could not get the second rotor off no-way-no-how. I finally (after pounding the rotor with a 5 pound mallet and worrying about damaging my alignment and wondering if I would now have to live with the dented, rusty rotor took out a four-foot, one-inch thick crow bar I own and was able to pry the two apart. Not easy and much trepidation did that situation cause. So I think that covers it all. Thanks again to Dial2fast because my new brakes are working fine. My alignment, well...

[@mikefreygang5788]

That was very thorough and the lighting was very good. Good work!!

[@coryballiet8260]

Good video, going to be doing the breaks on my 09 Odyssey next weekend. Really appreciate that you included the torque specs. I was contemplating getting the Haynes manual for this. Thanks for saving me $25!

[@brownsinhumble]

Going to install front and read rotors and pads tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the shim. Wish I had watch the video before purchasing the parts at a local auto parts stop. Power Stop would have save me some money. KB

[@mbdint]

Great video. Thank you for taking the time to do it. One problem I noticed is that you forgot to put the springs that are mounted on top of the pads. This is a bit of a tricky step since the springs are designed to pull pads away from the rotor and can be difficult to put the top piece with Pistons back into place.

[@mbdint]

I might be wrong about springs since my van is 2012 and it has them. Perhaps older models don't have them.

[@dial2fast]

+Boris D No springs on the 2008. I am wondering if you are referring to those spreader springs used on Nissan that help spread the pads apart.

[@mbdint]

+dial2fast yup, that is the one. I wonder how 2008 handles the pulling of pads apart mechanics without springs...

[@jamesyoungblood5073]

I just finished installing these rotors and pads on my 2013 Odyssey. It did have the springs. I found the easiest way to install them is to install the piston bracket one bolt at a time. When you have the top bolt in, lift the bottom of the bracket up and install the bottom spring. The top of the bracket will hold the pads together and not let them spread out. Then do the same for the top spring by installing the bottom bracket bolt, removing the top bracket bolt and lifting up on the bracket to install the top spring. The bottom of the bracket will then hold the pads together. When both springs are in, tighten both bolts and your springs are in.

[@kapooranjana2]

Very nice although do not have all the tools to finish the job but at least know what is being changed and the process although gave the details on pricing and brands. AWESOMELY explained

[@TB-lv2rh]

OMG, can I have your old rotors & pads? Everything looked pretty good on the old brakes that you're replacing!!! I have to do a brake job on my buddy's 2008 Odyssey that is not garage kept & there's zero chance it will look that nice when I pull the wheels off this weekend!!!!

[@Newtttton]

I'd avoid parts from ebay like a plague. I heard a brother who bought timing belt from ebay and it broke on him after only 3K miles and of course the engine is ruined. Too expensive to repair so he sold it to a junk yard. He thought he was buying OEM. On the box, it even said Honda with the logo.

[@mikepjam8133]

are you pleased with the quality? Any noise or other issues? I'm about to buy the set you used. Thx for the video

[@henrychartoff3984]

Great video. Very well done. Thanks for clear pictures.

[@1painter4hire]

This was great Man, Thank You, Appreciate your time

[@davidcolwell1577]

Top notch video! Great quality. Very clear and no wasted air time. Thanks

[@TranTek]

Good job you missed the slider pins they need to be cleaned and re-grease very important especially in northern part where there are snow and dirt

[@porthose2002]

Nicely done video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together!

[@dial2fast]

John Gerken Thanks for your comment!

[@porthose2002]

John Gerken Finished my disk swap yesterday. Van now drives SO much better. That trick to turn the 19mm bolt the opposite the direction from the 14mm caliper bolts saved me a bunch of frustration. Thanks again.

[@keephiscommandmentsandlive9860]

Hi, can you explain what you mean about causing the brake fluid reservoir to overflow when you compress the caliber? You took the top off of the reservoir, why? And how does it overflow and how do I avoid this?

[@dial2fast]

The car's brake uses a hydraulic fluid system. As the brake pads wear down, more fluid will be pushed towards the brake caliper (brake reservoir fluid level will go down). When you do a brake service and put new pads, you compress the brake caliper piston, and push the fluid back up to the brake reservoir (fluid level will go up). If someone top off the fluid in the reservoir prior to you doing this brake service, there will be too much fluid when you compress the brake caliper leading to the fluid overflowing. Brake fluid will eat and melt paint, so you need to catch the overflow with a towel to protect the car's paint.

[@keephiscommandmentsandlive9860]

@@dial2fast okay thanks for responding and helping 🙏🏽... One more question please. How do you know if you need to replace the caliper?

[@keephiscommandmentsandlive9860]

Hi again I'm out here trying to beat a storm that's coming and I got everything off. I was watching your video where you replaced the shims. Mine are rusty and there are already ones on the new ones but you said I still have to replace the inside one?

[@Patrick94GSR]

14:24 whoa that lower rubber boot is all scrunched up! I would have straightened it out prior to torquing the bolt in the slide pin.

[@mrflorida55]

Why does the inside pad need a shim? BTW don't new glide clips usually come with new pads? I think the rotor side is only there cause the cuts in rotor are directional.

[@dionmorehead2911]

Thank for the slowly given information. Also I didn't see in comment/video info where you purchased the brakes.

[@dial2fast]

All the links are in the description.

[@andrewsomebody844]

Wish the tool sizes needed were in the description

[@sigep93]

The best video, you are a great teacher.

[@darby427]

at 11:01 when you lube the piston and boot - you used brake grease. Shouldn't you use sil glyde because of the boot?

[@dial2fast]

Yes you can to prevent the rubber from swelling.

[@watuzi]

I really like those brake set, they work great. Happy Thanksgiving!

[@dial2fast]

Happy Thanksgiving to you also. Cheers!!

[@MrRbritton123]

Very well done video and instructions! Great camera shots. Clear directions. Kudos!

[@abdulkaderalriyashi9436]

Thanks for the video. What is the point of the extra shims?

[@Patrick94GSR]

I have an impact driver, but I usually just take the end piece off and slip it onto my impact wrench, stick the bit in, and zip those screws out.

[@DeBassHead]

you also forgot to lubricate the siding tubes on each side of the caliper to make sure theyre both moving evenly and there is even wear on both brake pads or else one will wear out more than the other pad

[@jwhays]

One of the best automotive how to videos I've ever seen. I broke two 19mm Kobalt sockets trying to get the calipers off on one side!. Now I'm stuck on those Philips screws so I came to KZbin to see what other people were doing. Gonna find one of those hammer screwdrivers. Glad to hear I won't need them when I'm done! My only question is why did you only reuse the inside shim when the new pads already have them?

[@dial2fast]

***** The original factory shim is only on the inside (this video was shot with the brakes being worked on for the first time since buying the car new, so this is how it came from the factory). I didn't see any harm in putting it on to match what it came with. The key to any shim is to apply anti squeal grease on the mating surface.

[@jhimelick]

dial2fast but is it necessary to actually reuse it? I mean if it's rusted to crap, can you just not use it?

[@dial2fast]

nosoupfuru If the shim is rusted, you can buy new brake hardware kits for your car which includes the shim. Or some brake brands will sell the pads with new shims. You can try not using shims but you might get brake noise over time. You can also try just using brake lube on the backside of the brake pads.

[@pval3]

fantastic video. the new parts listed for front rotors do not have "side specific" designation like your original video. Is there any special break in required for this type of rotor.. also.. Is there a kit with matched rotors and pads for front or back - or with the whole kit that you would recommend from amazon or eBay in late 2024? thanks

[@dial2fast]

The Centric brake rotors are not directional, so you can install it left or right. These brake pads don't have any specific break in procedure. Just drive like normal after install. As for brake kits (rotor and pad set), you can always check Rock Auto for a list of options.

[@markadoucet]

i ordered parts form Centric...they took 5 days to ship a product they had in stock then when I did get them they were the wrong parts

[@kennethpassero8280]

SAFETY ALERT-WARNING------- YOU FORGOT SOMETHING VERY DEADLY AND DANGEROUS FOR THE AMATEUR!!!!!!! THEY MUST PUMP THE BRAKES 2-4 TIMES AFTER PAD REPLACEMENT. BEFORE MOVING OR VEHICLE WILL HAVE NO BRAKING CAPABILITY.

[@gondolacrescent5]

Kenneth Passero If a cars brakes don’t respond to an initial push, I think it’s instinctive to release and push repeatedly until the brakes start to work. Aside from that, all cars have emergency/parking brakes. If those don’t work, your car repair priorities are out of order.

[@e24mpwr]

@@gondolacrescent5 His instructions for the break-in start with "5 aggressive stops" - that's not going to go well if the brakes haven't been pumped to reset the pistons. Kenneth is 100% correct - pumping the brakes absolutely needs to be part of that process before you move the car.

[@EdsterL]

So you mean I would have to pump the breaks about 5 times once? Or do I pump one side at a time when complete?

[@e24mpwr]

@@EdsterL You turn on the car and pump the brakes (gently) until the pedal firms up. Then you go driving and do the multiple stops to bed the brakes. If you don't, the first aggressive stop attempt might not stop the car at all.

[@josephcasanola3762]

Matt yes after everything is installed and your about to turn on your car for the break in procedure you turn on your car and pump the breaks until the pedal feels firm THEN you can start driving

[@MAGATonyG]

Great job, very clean work you do.

[@Believer21777]

Thank you this really helps Umm what where the groves in the new rotor from You did A great job explaining everything

[@billpizzifred5769]

Really good video-- wondering why you put a note in about removing the slide pin-- cleaning and re-lubing it but didn't show it on either your front or rear brake videoes??? How do you remove it??? I guess I will find out this week when I replace the brakes on my Odyssey this week-- Not a lot different from doing GM brakes.... Thumbs up for including bolt sizes and torque values.

[@dial2fast]

+Bill Pizzifred I forgot to re-lube the slide pins during the video. But later I went back and pulled them out and lubed it. It's not a big deal but allows the caliper to slide easier. The slide pins just pulls off the boot, it's very easy to do.

[@LewisDodgson1]

Excellent instructional video!

[@takeniteasyfriend]

Phenomenal instruction! Details and all 👍🏆

[@hardydude69]

Awesome instruction bro! Thank you

[@tomdwyer5188]

Have you replaced catalytic converters and have a how to video?

[@chadbrassard8411]

I see some guys say to open the bleed valve to protect the master cylinder when compressing the piston. Is there a reason not to do that on the Odyssey?

[@dial2fast]

Some people believe pushing fluid back in the master cylinder may cause damage, but in reality it doesn't. Ask any mechanic who's done this a long time, and they will tell you it's perfectly safe.

[@dmesholliman]

Awesome Video.. Doing our 2012 this weekend... Hope those crews are not welded on!

[@AariffK]

Hello, I followed all of your instructions and changed my rotor and brake pads. I am getting noise on my passenger side brake while heavy braking. Is that any problem? I lubricated everything including the pins. I don't get the noise on driver side brake. Please let me know if I have to check anything again.

[@samsnow7370]

Question: why would you need the metal shims? I think I tossed my old one out and the new pads didn't come with it .. is it ok?

[@Liaz3Marias]

Hi, how long the slotted rotors last with you/kms? Thanks.

[@MrTeenwolf82]

You are clear and will known your Honda Odyssey. Thank you

[@stanmcdonald1394]

Thank you, God bless you and your family!!!

[@kunad2294]

hello sir, how do you removed the two phillips head screws from the rotor how easy it is.

[@Chevy-hw6lw]

Wow you make great videos , keep them coming

[@beloblotskiy]

Great tutorial. Thank you Sir. Will do this breaks job on my Odyssey. Thanks a lot.

[@marktillman2141]

Just a great detailed video. Thanks for providing.

[@jacquelinetaylor9786]

Mark Tillman ii

[@nothingfree3524]

at 10.40 what kind of vitamin you take to make your hand go so fast?☺

[@tuyhoaphuyen3412]

Good showing , thank you .Do you need to replace the rotor if it still looks good and the surface has not been damaged by brake pads? I once brought my car to the shop and a guy told me either have to replace the rotor or resurface it, but after watch your video and want to save some money .Should i skip thing?

[@dial2fast]

It's really hard to say because uneven surface is hard to visually see. But if you are using a new type of pads on old rotors, the material bedded onto the rotor may be different and cause issues. If you using same brand of pads, then maybe you can try it.

[@MrDucatiti]

Thanks! Perfect timing. Doing my brakes soon! Do the slotted rotors make that clicking sound? I may just go with Centric Cyro Treated or would you recommend Centric Premium instead?

[@dial2fast]

Centric have some good reviews. I am not a believer on those Cryo treated rotors. I have tried cryo rotors from another vendor before and paid lots of money for them. Well they warped just like the regular rotors. These Brakemotive ones are the only ones I had luck with. I believe the slotted and cross drilled cools the rotor much better and therefore not warp as easily.

[@kttangos2871]

Grease both slide pins👍 Great video👍

[@12vgs8606]

When did you go all air on us? I thought you could use your Ryobi 18V to take off the lug nuts. At least you demonstrated them a while ago. Does is not have the oomph any more?

[@dial2fast]

Well, I always had air tools. The Ryobi video was a tool review. It still works fine.

[@SinCityAMG]

Great and detailed instructional video. Thank you!

[@MEDCANWhitewidow]

The only thing you forgot to do is clean and regresse the slide pins,and pump the brakes up after replacement of pads. The other thing I do is cover the surface area where the rotor mates up with the hub with anti-seize,it stops the surfaces from fusing together over time.

[@stanmcdonald1394]

Hello dial2fast, Thanks for these vid's. I will be changing the rotors and pads on my 05 Ody soon. The tips are excellent and practical. My question, what type of gloves do you use? They seem to resist tearing and chemical break down. Thanks for all the help!!! God Bless!!!

[@dial2fast]

They are actually just 5mil thick gloves from Harbor Freight, and after some use, they do tear. To do this job, I probably went through 2-3 pairs. They now sell 6mil and 7mil thick gloves (black) and those are much better.

[@dlbaugh]

I'm curious why you said to use Sylglide instead of the brake grease on the slide pins. Also, A mechanic friend told me to avoid getting brake clean on the pads, yet you state to clean the pads with brake clean. Thanks for a great video.

[@JR-kw8fy]

From what I understand, sylglide does not cause any change in rubber parts. Some kinds of grease may cause the rubber to swell and then degrade.

[@12vgs8606]

Very nice video! I do wish you had removed and greased the caliper slides though. Did the rotor get gouged? I see a deep circular line running through it.

[@jgizzy]

I watched this vid specifically for the slide pin preparation, too bad :( Many people ignore the slide pins, dont clean/change the boots, and almost always use the wrong type of lubricating grease which ends up eating away the rubber boots.

[@diggascryptoawarenessdownu7246]

@@jgizzy Can you please let me know the details of the corrections you speak of here? Thank you

[@sparks6666]

Great video. This is a fun job to do if you like working on cars. I bought the same rotors/pads on ebay and they are excellent.

[@dial2fast]

Thanks for sharing!

[@ElCid_86]

Just did my fronts. Thanks for the video assist!

[@dial2fast]

+P. Shawn Faherty Glad my video helped.

[@edbarger2131]

Good video. Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you!