Diatonic Lock Bars

[@ggradev]

Thanks for your charming presence in this lesson. And for the joy to hear South wind for first time. I will play it on my recorder, with an irresistible desire.

[@apilgrimsprogress7688]

Thanks for this video, I have just inherited one of these and had no idea what the lock bars were for.

[@kentkacs3140]

Another informative and appreciated video! The best explanation I've yet found.

[@willmaybe8121]

Maybe not for everyone & not for every song, but I personally LIKE how it sounds WITHOUT the lockbar on..... it sounds like a grace note is being added...

[@KE4YAL]

Beautiful

[@Mo-MuttMusic]

Nicely done, Jo Ann. Shawn R., Mo-Mutt Music

[@autoharpist]

Thanks! Glad you like it!

[@michaelcaplin8969]

Thanks for all these fantastic videos!! Now, what would I have to do if I wanted an autoharp JUST like yours in this video? I run a studio where we record some of the most expensive instruments in our country with extremely expensive and beautiful sounding equipment, so I've mostly been a bit disappointed by how many autoharps sound, expecting them to have a depth and a bell like quality that I really need for my usage of one, but often finding them sounding a bit thin. But this sounds just full and beautiful, and the lock bar is something I would absolutely need. I would also appreciate some suspended fourth and second chords as well. What should I do?

[@autoharpist]

Although much cheaper options are available via manufactured autoharps with a custom setup, they won't have the same sound. Luthier-made autoharps have more depth and volume. Depending upon the maker and the woods chosen, you can get yourself one with the type of sound you're looking for. The one I was playing in this video was made by Ken Ellis of Whippoorwill Acoustics. His autoharps, along with those made by Tom Fladmark, tend to have a clear, bright tone. Greg Schreiber's autoharps have more body and fullness but are less bright. Wood choices make a difference here. My favorite tone wood is cherry because it's bright and sweet, and is very responsive. A custom autoharp from any luthier will cost ~$2500 with a build time of 6 to 9 months. There is a less expensive luthier option that I worked with Ken Ellis to design, called the Heartland. It doesn't have a lot of the fancy purfling and finish, but they sound wonderful and I have two of them. They can be set up in any key or range of keys that you like and are priced at $1700. Here is a link to the Heartland Autoharp on my website: www.autoharpist.com/the-heartland-autoharp

[@NemoNepersonne]

I’ve just purchased on Reverb a 1998 Fladmark 14 with two lock bars that seems to be in perfect condition and was only $500! I didn’t want someone else to snap it up. I don’t know what key it’s in, as that doesn’t show up in the photos. I didn’t wait to ask. I know the lock bars have no felt on the bass range, though.

[@Missy.apropheticvoice]

nice..thank you..I have always wanted to understand the autoharp

[@oracle2mountain]

happy that the camera-person made you smile~

[@pjtaylor3566]

Excellent video!

[@d.m.collins1501]

Is it possible to buy lock bars to add to my own autoharp? Those things look handy!

[@autoharpist]

Probably -- it depends on the brand and model. For Oscar Schmidt and Chromaharp, I would contact one of the luthiers who regularly converts these brands to diatonic and see what kind of mechanisms they offer for creating lock bars. If you have a luthier-made autoharp or a set of luthier-made chord bars that you've added to a stock OS model, the maker of those bars can provide you with lock bars. By the way -- replacing the standard-issue chord bars on ANY factory-made autoharp with a nice set of luthier bars is the best upgrade you can do for function and playability.

[@melaniexoxo]

Very pretty! Thank you for posting

[@mcneillmama50]

Couldn't you just cut your own felts according to the strings you want to ring out. If I cut a C chord felt the Bb wouldn't ring out anyway because it would be muted? Someone gave me an old OS 73 12 chord autoharp. I'm thinking about converting it to a diatonic C/F because that's my vocal range I usually sing. I need to know the string schedule 1-36 that would be best for a C F autoharp. I refurbished an old chromatic OS73 15 string autoharp with the help of Pete Daigle via email and it turned out great. I know enough chord theory from playing piano, I can cut the felt for what I want. Where did you say I can order a wooden chord bar assembly kit. I'd like a 12 bar wooden kit. I don't absolutely have to have it but the old OS73 doesn't have the chord names on top of the buttons, they are printed on the front side of the button which makes it hard to read when you hold the AH upright to play. I haven't figured out a pleasant looking way around this. The other OS73 I refurbished, I ended up putting Avery round labels on top of the buttons. I gave it to my minister and he's been playing it.

[@autoharpist]

Yes, the C chord bar would mute the Bb -- but only when it is pressed down. The point of having a lock bar to mute all the B flats when playing in the key of C on an F/C autoharp is so that the Bb notes won't get hit by accident when you are playing melody notes OPEN (with no chord bars pressed down). "Open-noting" is a diatonic technique that gives a fluid, flowing sound to the music and overcomes the choppy sound that can result from always having a chord bar engaged. There is a good F/C diatonic tuning schedule in the Autoharp Owner's Manual amzn.to/2yxuPlf . Chord bars can be ordered from any autoharp luthier -- Pete Daigle, Greg Schreiber, Tom Fladmark, John Hollandsworth, etc. If you are going to invest in a custom set of bars, I highly recommend getting a 15-bar, 3-row set, rather than just 12. You only have to cut felts for 12 bars if you want to -- but the three-row setup allows much more flexibility and would allow you to make a lock bar if you want to. You could request that a couple of the bars include locking mechanisms, just in case. They don't have to be used as lock bars unless you want to use them that way.

[@whistlingbirds]

Excellent.....just excellent!! :)

[@miarosie]

Hi Jo Ann, can you add lock bars to autoharps that have already been converted? I'm looking at a 3 key diatonic which doesn't appear to have lock bars - or would it be necessary to buy a new bar set to include them? Thank you, Jani

[@autoharpist]

Hi, Jani. A three-key autoharp more closely resembles a chromatic than a diatonic and you'd most likely play it in the same way you play the chromatic. You'll get more volume and a little less dead wire than with the chromatic, but as far as lock bars go I wouldn't suggest getting them in this case. Lock bars are needed in order to allow open-noting, but it's best to learn that technique on a one- or two-key autoharp. It's possible to have locks on a three-key, but the results aren't as satisfying. Plus, you would need 18 bars to cover all the essential chords for three keys AND have room for three locks. My guess is this one has 15 bars. Once you go over 15 bars you start having issues with harmonics in the bars closest to the sound hole which is why I prefer 15 bars, even for a semi-chromatic (three-key).

[@miarosie]

Jo Ann Smith thank you. Your last sentence is interesting, is that only because of it being a 3 key 'harp? I've taken another look at it, it was actually converted from a 15 bar to a 21 bar autoharp a few years ago. I realise now too, that it has the plastic cover on and so lock bars wouldn't fit any how. Your preference for 15 bars is over three lines? This set up is: Dm7 Am7 Em7 G7 D7 A7 E7partial Csus4 F C G D A Dsus4 Gsus4 Dm Am Em Bm F#m Asus4 I've decided to get a luthier autoharp (I just don't know who to go with) but want something to tide me over, perhaps I should get this and reduce it to a true diatonic. Many thanks. Jani

[@autoharpist]

Harmonics on an autoharp are never good. On every string, there are specific points (nodes) along the length of it that, when touched, will cause the string to ring an octave higher when the string is plucked. You'll see guitar players use this technique of lightly touching a string about midway on its length while plucking it -- it causes a high note with a bell-like quality that's quite fetching (think of the guitar riff at the very end of "Time in a Bottle"). But on an autoharp, the only time you (or rather, the chord bar) touches a string is when you are trying to MUTE it. If the felt happens to land on one of those harmonic nodes on a particular string, the string you are trying to mute will ring anyway (one octave higher, but still the note you don't want). Not good, and there is no practical way to eliminate them completely. HOWEVER, the most notorious harmonic nodes generally lie at the midpoint of the length of a string. The closer the chord bar lies to the middle of the autoharp body, the worse the harmonics tend to be. On 21 chord models, the top 6 or so bars (closest to the sound hole) are positioned right in the most harmonic-prone area of the string bed. This is why I don't recommend any more than 15 bars.

[@autoharpist]

In other words, it has everything to do with the number and placement of the bars and little to do with the actual tuning.

[@miarosie]

Hi Jo Ann, okay yes, that makes sense now. My next question is regarding a chromatic autoharp. On the basis of this sound logic, presumably it is better to therefore also reduce the 21 chord bars down to 15? In which case there won't be enough bars to cover each key required - so I guess it's better to have two autoharps with split keys than risk the harmonics with one harp with 21 bars? I'm being sent the details of a 21 bar and two 12 bar 'harps to look at, and am considering creating two diatonics (possibly three depending on your recommendation). None of these are expensive, the 21 bar is $540 so if the bodies are good, may be worth adding complete new bar sets. I wonder if, whilst just getting to grips with the mechanics of playing it, I Should be concerned by keeping the 21 bars, or just alter immediately to 15 on it as a chromatic. I think my future with this instrument lies in playing diatonics, primarily because i've always played 'melody line' instruments ( with the exception of the ukulele ). However I did hear you recommend learning, initially, on a chromatic. One sees so many people saying to only buy 21 bar autoharps, but I agree that if harmonics are a problem it makes sense to move away from that central part of the body / string. I also agree that 3 line layout will be much easier and more logical than two lines. Many thanks again. Jani