Dibond: Buying, Cutting, and Priming

[@CorvetteTeaser]

Thank you for sharing, i'm an architect, and found the material you used and all your work fascinating.. cant wait to use it

[@jameseward]

Thank you for posting Amanda, I have been working on dibond for years now, its an amazing substrate...its light weight, rigid, and never warps. When I began using this product, I called a dibond manufacturer and they recommended spaying an automotive primer or use DTM Bonding Primer after sanding. They said that gesso does not have good adhesion to the polymer surface. Hope that helps.

[@AmandaTeicher]

That's interesting. I would be concerned about taking advice from the Dibond manufacturer about oil paintings ... because for some painters, longevity is very important, and how the layers of chemical preparations from other industries interact with oil paint *over time* is almost certainly not known to the Dibond people. I was told by George O'Hanlon of Natural Pigments (he makes a very good oil paint that I use) that acrylic primer will adhere well to Dibond's polyester coil coating, as long as the polyester coil coating is sanded, but that oil primer (the only true gesso is oil based) will not. I wonder if the Dibond people were thinking about oil-based gesso when they recommended the automotive primer. The way I see it, we painters are kind of in a tight spot, because it's not a big industry, so we have to borrow materials from other industries, which has pitfalls. Great comment, though, and I'm glad to explore multiple viewpoints and sources of advice.

[@dennisgilliam2987]

Amanda, I really appreciate you sharing your cutting process with the Dibond panel. I'm buying a 4'x8' sheet tomorrow to try it out. I have used copper and plain aluminum panel prior to this but for larger works, they can become unwieldy. I felt the cutting instructions I read about on various sites were unnecessarily complex, and required expensive equipment, so I continued to search for a more sensible method and found your KZbin. I'm so glad to have the information, as it will make my job a lot easier tomorrow. Thank you so much for taking the time.

[@bommaritohawaii]

Dennis, were you able to cut the dibond successfully? If so, were you able to get a clean edge on both sides?

[@andrewwerth8312]

Thanks for the excellent video. I had never thought of cutting Dibond with a box cutter knife! I found that my local sign shop can cut the Dibond to size for me (I usually give them a diagram showing how to cut the 4'x8' panel into smaller panels), though occasionally I have to trim off the poly core that over-hangs the aluminum. For my panels, I've used Scotch Brite to scuff the polyester, as it seems one doesn't need very rough grooves to make the primer bond nicely. One other tip I picked up somewhere was to first put down a layer or two of Golden GAC-200 mixed with Golden Matte Medium either before or instead of the gesso. Since I like to keep the silver shining through for my paintings (I buy the brushed silver Dibond rather than white), I often don't want an opaque ground and the GAC-200 (promotes adhesion to hard surfaces) with Matte Medium gives a nice, firm, slightly toothy support for my acrylic paintings. (Learned the hard way: Make sure this dries completely before continuing, especially if you plan on using masking tape on the painting!) One final tip (for others who may find this): If you're not careful, some sign shops will sell you something that looks like Dibond but is made by another manufacturer. Some of those work just great (Alucobond), but if you get the wrong one you may find that it's not coated with the polyester coating and instead you have bare aluminum, which will have adhesion problems if you try to paint on it with the gesso!

[@PastelPainting]

Thanks for this Amanda, a few people have suggested using Dibond, and your video gives great guidance.

[@jasonrafferty1457]

Very helpful! Answered like all my questions after having read Kate's blog post a while back. Thank you!

[@mikel4510]

To hold the straight edge in place try a couple inexpensive 'C' clamps - much better than tape. Can use them to hold the panel to your work bench, too. Power sander - get what is known as a palm or oscillating sander used for finish work. They are relatively cheap and super effective for taking off just a bit of surface and doing it equally across a surface. Great video.

[@AmandaTeicher]

This video is now getting a lot of views. If anyone decides to start using aluminum composite panel, I'd be very appreciative if you'd post a comment about your experiences. It would help the art community. Thanks!

[@xxxorg]

OK, CHECK THIS VIDEO OUT!! I THINK IT MIGHT HELP A LOT OF PEOPLE!!! CHANNEL: GARRY KRAVITS TITLE: MAKING QUALITY LINEN AND CANVAS PAINTING PANELS WITH NO MESS THANKS FOR YOUR VID!!! PS. DrawMixPaint is a really great site!! And also YUPARI! OK, BYEE!

[@samwade3200]

Hi Amanda, Just to let you and everyone else know, adhering Primed linen canvas to a ridged surface does indeed change the texture/weave somewhat no matter what glue you use. The Smoother linens tend to be less pronounced but any inconsistencies show more. I asked the same question in various other places and they all agreed that the canvas changes when its being adhered to a hard surface. - Merry Xmas and Happy Nerw Year.

[@ErikvanElven]

Thanks for the video, I already did a painting on dibond before seeing this video and really liked it. But I didn't know you could cut it yourself, very helpful!

[@vinivv]

I believe this or something similar is used for resin art also for wall panels basically with colorful resin and acrylics

[@bonnielevinthal2565]

great video...do you have any info on alternative ways to present panels rather than framing? i have seen brackets attached to the back...

[@enemeriogalvan3361]

Thank you Amanda for creating and informative video...I am going do more research, since I am considering this type of substrate for my thesis works!

[@gwendlyndomingo7215]

Thank you Amanda , you’re tips are super helpful❤️❤️❤️

[@paultaylor6167]

I did opt to use a 6mm panel, using the E panel type. I went through the same scuffing, isopropyl cleaning and three layers of gesso, no sanding between. I did sort of light brush out the last coat with a brush. The final texture looks like egg shell wall paint texture. I knew after seeing the 3mm panel I would have to add stiffeners. Too much time and labor. It's working out great. Paul

[@AmandaTeicher]

Excellent, I'm very pleased to hear that. It's great material.

[@stillhere3351]

instead of using masking tape, which can easily move and de-form, use two adjustable c-clamps with a rectangular piece of wood on top and bottom of the clamps jaws so you don't cause a dent in the dibond. To make up for the gap you've just created under the dibond place another sheet of same thickness wood under it. Thanks for the great video though! Never thought to use such an item as a canvas.

[@AmandaTeicher]

Great suggestion! If you're curious to learn more, visit my panel website at amandaspanels.com.

[@adelinalienrexhaj5014]

Thank you! But how do you hang it on the wall?

[@AmandaTeicher]

Let me add one more thought. I attended a great workshop last month called Painting Best Practices. I wrote two articles about what I learned, one about supports and one about materials. Here are the links: To Make a Painting Last, Give it a Strong Foundation www.amandateicher.com/blog/to-make-a-painting-to-last-give-it-a-strong-foundation Artists, Know Your Materials www.amandateicher.com/blog/artists-know-your-materials

[@forrest603]

I found a Dibond reseller near me. I got some samples in the mail from 3A and I really like it. It sounds like the white-coated version is what I'll want. Take a sander to it, gesso and go (making sure the edges are smooth, so I don't knick myself). What do you use to sand down your gesso? I've had a problem with sanding down gesso, with an electric sander, as it tends to "gum up" on the paper -- if you don't remove them, they'll gouge the surface. I use liquitex gesso - in the bottle, which is plenty thin enough, but I wonder why I have such a difficult time.

[@AmandaTeicher]

Forrest Aldrich Awesome. A power sander? Can you put just gentle scuff marks in the surface with a power sander? I've heard that it's best to not sand down to the aluminum.

[@forrest603]

Amanda Teicher I have a power sander I've been using that makes it quicker to cover the larger surfaces. You can do it without ruining the polyester coat. I found a local source for 3mm Dibond, inexpensively with cuts. Looking forward to trying it out and to not laboring over masonite and wood cradling anymore.

[@georgeeveretthompson8483]

+Amanda Teicher People do paint on raw aluminum so the not sanding through to metal doesn't make sense to me. I find that some areas do get sanded down to metal - edges - and have had no problems with that.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+George Everet Thompson Wow, that's interesting. I didn't know oil paint and aluminum were compatible.

[@annsalty5615]

Watching this as considering trying dibond for oil painting. As a professional artist, I am concerned about painting on the polyester coated side vs directly on aluminum. In time, polyester is an unknown as to how it might gas out. I would consider putting a size layer at minimum, like GAC 100, before putting down any gesso or oil grounds.

[@laylaal-marzooqi2969]

Thank you for this informative video:)

[@gueilin]

Thank you for the wonderful video. It seems that the blog is by invitation only. I wonder how to get invited? Thanks.

[@AmandaTeicher]

Here's my website, which contains my blog. Enjoy! amandaskow.weebly.com/

[@forrest603]

Thanks for posting your video, it was very helpful -- as I just recently found out about Dibond. I've read warning about the polyester, slick coating on Dibond as being highly unsuitable for long-term holding of gesso. I've also read suggestions that you can buy the bare-aluminum version of Dibond, sand that and prep it with a zinc/chromium marine spray paint to fully seal it. Everyone seems to have an opinion; there are some that suggest anodizing the surface with sulfuric acid and such -- I don't think so! :-) In any case, I haven't yet found many people that are using this material, so I thought you might be able to shed some light on the above. I've grown tired of the laborious process of prepping my own panels with masonite, then the pine cradles which add a significant amount of weight. Speaking of which, for larger items, I wonder how one would create a "cradle" for a larger item that's on Dibond, without drilling holes into the material -- I would imagine that would require some industrial adhesive (Home Depot has Liquid Nails adhesive) -- but what material to bond with?

[@top5designgrant]

yes, my concern is the bond of the gesso also. What is the solution to mount hardware to the back to hang the piece?

[@edquinlan4991]

Please be aware, Di-Bond is a brand, many other manufacturers offer the Aluminum Composite Panels (ACP or ACM). Laminators Inc works with many artists nationally and cuts to shape, size, etc.. Great product!

[@kidroid2317]

Always use a cut-resistant glove on the hand that's holding the ruler when you're cutting with a utility knife. Cutting injuries can happen no matter how careful you think you are with the blade.

[@fulmaris33]

Years ago I severed my thumb so badly I nearly lost it. However careful you are cutting slippy, rigid material with a box cutter using such a thin straight edge, you're very likely to lose control, the cutter slips off the line and the next thing it meets is your thumb. You need to add a more definite safety warning about this. Students, who often have little experience might rush the process and be less safety conscious. I was being super careful and it still happened to me. To this day I have very little sensation in my thumb as I cut through so many nerves. It could have been much more serious.

[@kimlepine5155]

Can this be painted with oil paint and hung outdoors?

[@uns3en]

Hey thanks for excellent video. I'm acrylic painter myself but this was useful for me also

[@samwade3200]

Hi Amada, great video and very well explained. If I want to adhere primed linen canvas to the dibond, can I sand, gesso and then adhere the canvas using a PH Neutral PVA glue?. I tried doing it without gessoing but the glue seemed to bloom and form glue droplets....

[@AmandaTeicher]

+Sam Wade good question. You can adhere linen to Dibond after sanding the Dibond. I wouldn't apply gesso before the glue. I've done it with acrylic matte medium. I'm working on a video about adhering linen to wood panels with reversible adhesive, and later I'll create a video about ahering linen to Dibond.

[@samwade3200]

+Amanda Teicher Thanks for your reply Amanda, In regard to adhering primed linen to the dibond, I found that I wasn't sanding the surface enough to create sufficient tension. My advice if anything would be to use 400 grit wet&dry sandpaper and a drop of water to really take the shine off the dibond before applying the PVA glue, works great for me anywho. Also one thing I have found when adhering primed linen canvas is that the texture or weave becomes more pronounced.... Is this normal?

[@georgeeveretthompson8483]

+Sam Wade I'm using Golden GAC Soft Gel slightly thinned as adhesive. Try that and see if it works better. And don't gesso the surface, you want your adhesive to bond directly to the panel.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+Sam Wade Good question. I haven't noticed an enhancement of the linen texture when adhering it to aluminum composite material. I've only adhered Centurion brand primed linen, which I buy on jerrysartarama.com. It has a pretty fine texture, and I've only adhered finished paintings to the panel, rather than primed linen that I would then paint on. I like your method of scuffing the surface of the panel. I've switched lately from medium-grit sandpaper (120 grit) to 220-grit. I found I was sanding too hard with the rougher sandpaper. Thanks for commenting.

[@normatorti4295]

Thanks for the great demo. I just got a commission for a 4' x 5' oil painting and need to use aluminum for the first time! I am going to use a company in NH called Piedmont Plastics, in case anyone else in the area needs a resource. I have a question for you. I typically use MDF board, Beva roll film (glue), and quadruple primed canvas for my paintings. I use heat to bond them together. Can I use heat (a hot iron with a protective cover) on Dibond panels?

[@bonnietam5250]

Hi Amanda, thank for sharing this video and it is very helpful! May I know if I want to create cutout of the dibond panel by using LASERCUT in order to create different shapes, should I apply the gesso first before cut out or apply it after? Thanks!

[@paultaylor6167]

Amanda, have you experimented with brushing the gesso vs roller? Sometimes it's nice to see some swirling strokes under the paint. I'm going to use acrylics on a 4 x 8 sheet. I plan to use the 3mm thick panel but add stiffening strips to the back as a cradle. I'll use a 3m tape to fasten these. Any thoughts on this large scale work? Thanks.

[@AmandaTeicher]

Yes, I've used a 4-inch foam roller to apply primer. It leaves a less organic, more uniform layer, sort of like charcoal paper. For my traditional oil paintings, I like the look of brushstrokes, but a roller is nice for painters who don't want to call attention to the texture of the primer under the paint. It looks less handmade. If you're going to use a whole 4' x 8' sheet, let me urge you to get a piece of Alumalite, in either 6mm or-even better-10mm. It's made by Laminators Inc. If you contact the manufacturer, they may tell you where you can buy it in your area. The panel in this video, Dibond, and the generic version, e-panel, are fine for smaller paintings, but not for large works. That material is too flexible and too thin, and also far too heavy. If you Google Alumalite, you'll see what I mean. It has a corrugated core, which is what I believe you need. Have fun!

[@benjanzo]

Is it possible to use the cutting residue for something?

[@JM-fr5kt]

Wgat time of gesso do you use normal artist prime gesso or is something stronger more durable? Tks for the tips anyone.

[@AmandaTeicher]

I use professional grade acrylic gesso. Mine is made my Daniel Smith in Seattle, but there are other brands of professional grade acrylic gesso, like Blick, Liquitex, or Utrecht.

[@rosamigliardi9490]

Dear Amanda thank you for the video just one question is it possible to pierce tiny holes in the disband panels?

[@AmandaTeicher]

I think you could with a drill and a small drill bit.

[@bommaritohawaii]

Amanda, have you figured out how to achieve clean edges on both sides without having to sand/file ie on first cutting process?

[@AmandaTeicher]

I always sand my edges with coarse sandpaper. I don't see any way around that step. I wrap the sandpaper around something with straight edges, a block or a piece of panel, and it goes pretty quickly. Have fun!

[@TwilightontheTrail]

Get yourself a 4 foot drywall t square. I love them

[@salvatoregraciartwork7191]

You paint a primer on your panel. Other artists don't. Is this optional? Your version makes complete though. It's just an added step.

[@AmandaTeicher]

This comment is in response to the comment posted today by Forrest Aldrich. Forrest, I'm glad you enjoyed the video. I'll respond to your questions one at a time: 1. Gesso on coated aluminum. The coating on Dibond panel is a polyester coil coating. It's basically polyester paint. It's compatible with acrylic dispersion ground, which is sometimes sold as "acrylic gesso," as was the Daniel Smith product in my video. You'll get better adhesion with a bit of scuffing with sandpaper. I wouldn't use true gesso on aluminum composite panel, because true gesso is oil based, and won't adhere well to the polyester coil coating. I also wouldn't recommend putting anything on the bare aluminum side of the panel. I got my information from George O'Hanlon, technical director of Natural Pigments, which sells professional-grade oil paint and aluminum composite panels in standard sizes for artists. I'm an art student myself, and I love to do research, so I believe my information is good. If anyone reading this comment has anything to add, please do. 2. Zinc/chromium marine spray to prep bare aluminum. Boy, I just don't know. I'd be wary of that, unless a conservator or expert in artist's materials tells you it's OK. You hear a lot of tips about how to prepare artist's materials using substances from other industries, like carpentry, etc. Because the panel needs to last for centuries and the chemicals used need to be compatible with oil paint, I'd be very careful about making an oil painting and including a bunch of unfamiliar chemicals anywhere on the panel. They may react poorly with each other. For example, I know some people like to use plywood panels for their oil paintings, because plywood is relatively inexpensive and stable. But plywood is made for carpentry, and it has formaldehyde glue in it. It holds the plies together very well, but the gas it creates isn't good for oil paint. So plywood is only a so-so choice as a support for an oil painting. That makes me think that preparing bare aluminum with zinc/chromium marine spray is something I'd stay away from unless it got a conservator's stamp of approval. Also, zinc is very brittle. It could crack if the panel bends at all, and aluminum composite panel does have some flex to it. So the more I think about it, the more I think I'd avoid it. 3. Adding a cradle. This is an excellent question. Because I'm a traditional artist, I frame my paintings, but many contemporary artists will prefer to cradle the panel instead. I'd use square metal tubing and glue it to the back of the panel with epoxy. I called Home Depot before writing this paragraph, and that's what they told me to do. The metal tubing would be heavy, and difficult to cut, but it would look industrial and modern and for some artists, just right. I'm not sure if you'd want to then paint the sides or even how to attach a wire. You'd probably just drill through the metal and attach a wire just like you would on a wooden cradle, with screws. Check out this link for a photo of square metal tubing: www.lowes.com/pd_215640-37672-11392_0__?productId=3053565&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-ThreadedRodAndMetalShapes-_-3053565:Steelworks&CAWELAID=1368098936&kpid=3053565&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=122a92f7-7345-0da9-9a8c-0000348ef184&kpid=3053565 If anyone else has better ideas, please post them. Thanks, Forrest, let me know how it goes. Best, Amanda

[@forrest603]

Amanda, thanks for the info. I didn't understand the nature of polyester paint -- when I hear "polyester" I think of 1970's fabrics that have long gone out of style ;) This makes the issue much simpler to handle (which is my preference). My local distributor says they typically only carry the coated dibond anyway. Cradling may be a challenge with this material as you would want to consider the exposed edges, which may not look very nice with the core showing and possibly with the sharp corners. Framing is expensive, which is why I avoid it. I just need to learn how to do my own sometime. I saw reference to honeycomb panel, in one of the URLs you posted. I found a source in CA and inquired about it, too. I agree, the chromium/zinc covering sounds very "industrial" -- I would avoid it. Acrylic gesso is so much more reliable, safer.

[@painternieidhin1315]

All these comments are so helpful. Do you have any updates on your use of Dibond? I've checked out how to hang Dibond and discovered a company in UK that does sub-frames - it's really simple. Check out lionpic.co.uk - some great ideas.

[@theodoraas6416]

Hey Amanda! really good and informative video, question from an art student here, ive also been using dibond and love it. My only problem with it at the moment is the dibond panels bending slightly probably due to them being stood against a wall for some time. i tried to bend them straight again using weights laying it on a flat surface but wasnt successful. You have any advice on this problem? do you think its impossible to bend them back to a straight shape?, thanks for listening!

[@AmandaTeicher]

Oh dear, that would be a problem. I'd turn the panels over so they lean against the bend and leave them alone for a while. After that, I'd store them in between two other vertical elements so they won't bend. I'm going out to my studio right now to check on my panels-in-waiting. Thanks for the comment!

[@georgeeveretthompson8483]

I use MaxMetal which is the same thing and costs about half as much as Dibond. I buy it from a local sign shop; they sell it to me at cost. Then I glue canvas to a sanded panel using GAC Soft Gel and paint on that.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+George Everet Thompson Yeah, I use a lower-priced version now too, also from a sign shop. Thanks for your comment.

[@samwade3200]

+George Everet Thompson Hi Everet, Do you adhere primed canvas?, if so do you find that the weave (texture) becomes more pronounced when its glued onto the board?

[@georgeeveretthompson8483]

+Sam Wade Primed yes, some are primed one side and some primed both sides. Since they are painted first there is no problem with the texture. The tests I have done with primed unpainted canvas don't show any differences in texture that I can see. I have not tried unprimed canvas.

[@salvatoregraciartwork7191]

What color Dibond do you use?

[@rixpix2200]

Note on using a file. I think Amanda is using the wrong stroke in her video. Push the file in one direction only. Remember, it' s not a saw -- this file was meant to cut on the away stroke. Put pressure on the return stroke and you'll dull the file and mangle the cutting edges. www.instructables.com/.../Introduction-to-Files.../

[@AmandaTeicher]

I'll remember that. Thanks!

[@AmandaTeicher]

rixpix2200 I made more Dibond panels a few days ago, and I have mended my wicked filing ways. Thanks for the tip.

[@DavidCunninghamartist]

It seems that the Dibond website you mentioned no longer has a distributors page...:(

[@AmandaTeicher]

+David Cunningham You're right, David. I'm planning to make another version of this video this year (shorter, more accurate), and I'll find another way to show people how to find the panels.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+David Cunningham The best advice I can give right now is to search on Google Maps for "sign shop," and call them. Ask them where you can buy aluminum composite panel (Dibond or the no-name brand). They should have some information for you. Good luck.

[@DavidCunninghamartist]

Thanks for a great video...I have been painting on Birch plywood for years and have a few primed panels to last me a while, but when these run out I will give Dibond a try!

[@AmandaTeicher]

Wonderful! I found the web page that shows you how to locate Dibond distributors: graphicdisplayusa.com/distributors/ You can also use a no-name brand of aluminum composite material as artists' panels, which is cheaper, and usually available at the same supply houses. The aluminum layers are thinner on the no-name brand, but they're sufficient for fine art application, especially any size panel that's smaller than about 24x36.

[@beckywebb1916]

+Amanda Teicher Will it be sufficient for a painting of a larger size, such as 40"x72" or will I somehow need to brace or cradle it? I'm a grad student trying to find a support that is large enough for life sized portraiture. I have wanted to try Dibond for awhile after seeing David Kassen's work. Thank you for this video and the accompanying information!

[@topwrapz]

Also there should be 2mm thickness aswell which is a bit cheaper.

[@topwrapz]

+TopWrapz 3mm option also comes with matte texture on the other side. that is cheaper than the one that has gloss white on both sides.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+TopWrapz Material in 2mm thickness would be fine for small panels (say, up to 8x10), but I'd stick with 3mm for most sizes, for two reasons: it's rigid, and it's widely available.

[@topwrapz]

+Amanda Teicher I see!

[@topwrapz]

you should use a safety ruler for safer and faster cutting :) you can find them from a local digital priting media distributor :)

[@LazarusNazario]

This was so helpful! Thank you for posting. :)

[@cavebeast540]

And you can find this amazing product in your local dumpster, ultraboard all the way!

[@dgoilpainting]

Thanks, Amanda.

[@grzegorzfilipiak3063]

olfa P cutter 205B for plastic sheet from Japan. try this one from ebay to cut dibond easier

[@forrest603]

Amanda, a few people have recommended coating the dibond with this prior to gesso: protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-25999%3Aproduct-6786 DTM Bonding Primer, especially for polyester. I was told that this makes for a better adhesion surface with acrylic gesso. Not sure I would go through all the trouble, but curious if you've heard of it.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+Forrest Aldrich I'm sticking with acrylic primer as well as acrylic gloss mediums for adhering linen. I've consulted with experts in the art world, including a conservator, a co-founder of a paint company, and a materials expert at Golden Artist Colors. They tend to be wary of adding too many products, especially as those products can change a lot, because it's difficult to really predict how they'll hold up, and how they'll interact with the paint film. I believe the adhesion between the polyester paint and the acrylic primer or medium will be sufficient, but of course, time will tell.

[@AmandaTeicher]

+Forrest Aldrich Perhaps one of the best things we can do, not knowing everything, is label the back of the paintings we make with the materials that we used, in case sometime in the future, someone needs to know.

[@p2kc1]

Thanks Amanda

[@mazinalmoumen]

Thank you, very helpful 👍👍

[@timelapse2983]

Thank you Amanda!

[@bernadinebritto]

Awesome 👏

[@AmandaTeicher]

Hi +Forrest Aldrich, For some reason, I can't reply under your comment from yesterday about the Sherwin-Williams bonding primer, so I'll comment here. I haven't heard of that product before. When you said a few people recommended coating Dibond with that product, are they fine artists with a knowledge of materials and how they last over decades, or are they people at the Sherwin-Williams store or at the Dibond distributor? I agree that adhesion is important, but I wouldn't want to put any more chemical compounds onto my painting surface than are necessary, just because I don't want unpredictable reactions in 50 or 60 years that result in paint flaking off, or yellowing, or other bad outcomes. The Sherwin-Williams primer is an acrylic emulsion product, like the acrylic dispersion ground from Daniel Smith, which is also described on the product website as an acrylic emulsion. www.danielsmith.com/Item--i-G-284-040 I guess I would continue using artist-grade primer. I'm thinking that the polyester coil coating on the panel is compatible with the artist-grade primer I'm using, and that the bonding properties are similar. I looked at the Sherwin-Williams primer data sheet, looking for a list of ingredients, so I could compare it to the Daniel Smith ingredients, but Sherwin-Williams isn't giving out their formula. Daniel Smith isn't either. I attended a Painting Best Practices workshop by George O'Hanlon, technical director at Natural Pigments, and his company sells ACM panels, pre-primed. He recommends using an acrylic dispersion ground right on the polyester surface, but sanding it lightly to promote adhesion. He's very knowledgeable about materials, so I'm going to follow that advice for the time being. Thanks for sharing the product information. That was interesting.

[@cbrr7615]

That Sherwin Williams primer can be found at Lowes, Homey Depot, etc etc and is some really awesome stuff with a number of different uses / applications. We've used only the water based but believe they have it in an oil base also.

[@cbrr7615]

Typically we cut our panels with a panel saw and am here after a search on hand cutting di bond. Actually.... We switched to using "Alupanel" in our shop which is pretty much identical to Di Bond, but a fraction of the cost. Unless someone told ya you would not be able to tell the 2 panels apart. Nice video tho. Thanks

[@AmandaTeicher]

A panel saw ... I dream of one day owning a panel saw. I do now have a table saw, which is great for trimming and for cutting thicker panel like Alumalite. Thanks for your comment!

[@cbrr7615]

My pleasure. Keep a regular eye on Craigslist for a panel saw and you will eventually find one like we did. Ours was about 600 bucks used but I'll tell ya what..... Best 600 bucks we've ever spent! Ever get into a pickle with any of this stuff don't hesitate to hit me up. Got 45 years in the sign/graphics, racing and fabrication industry and learned quite a lot in that time........... And ya....... Made a s#it ton of mistakes also... LOL !!!

[@AmandaTeicher]

Ha ha! Love that! If I ever need wisdom, I'll know where to go! And I *like* the Craigslist idea.

[@jokefrima4049]

Thank you, very helpfull.

[@rixpix2200]

Otherwise this is a great and informative video about this innovative product.

[@gonymets]

great video, Thanks!!

[@mahmudelsaaid1786]

My greetings are excellent👌

[@christopherfarrell-artist3557]

Whaartt! don't put blades in the garbage. A blade is sharp enough to pierce masking tape...interesting process priming a Dibond board, but, I just hope no one or creature is hurt by throwing away the blade...

[@AmandaTeicher]

OK, so what do you do with your blades? They have to go somewhere.