Did the valve stem oil seals stop the oil consumption? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 11

Testing to see if the valve stem seals fixed the oil burning problem in the Corolla.
0:00 Intro
4:25 Changing the oil in the Corolla
10:04 The test begins
11:23 Test results
Oil Burning Toyota videos:
Introduction to the Corolla: • Worst Toyota Ever!
Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - top down approach: • I poured Seafoam down ...
Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - bottom up approach: • Will Seafoam stop oil ...
Marvel Mystery Oil vs. Stuck piston rings: • Will Marvel Mystery Oi...
Motor Flush vs. Stuck Piston Rings: • Will Motor Flush stop ...
Compression test: • Are piston rings causi...
Is it the PCV valve?: • Is my PCV valve causin...
Scoping the cylinders of an oil burner: • Can you see signs of o...
Valve seal replacement part 1: • Toyota Valve Stem oil ...
Valve stem oil-seals part 2 start to finish: • How to change Toyota v...
#oilburner
#stuckrings #corolla #seafoam #valveseals
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this KZbin channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result.

[@rogerbacon394]

Its been nice fallowing this experiment. Glad to see you have limited the burning a little bit. Progress is always nice.

[@markusstrobl1067]

Notice how black the old oil is. That's a sign combustion gasses are leaking past the rings into the crank case. So yes, I'd say piston rings are probably your problem.

[@anthonyr5869]

‘Combustion gases’ would dilute the engine oil and they would make the oil more ‘watery’ overly impregnated with gasoline basically

[@markusstrobl1067]

@@anthonyr5869 That used to happen in the old days with very rich mixtures during cold starts ("cylinder wash", liquid fuel in the cylinder going past the rings). In this case I believe the rings leak during the power stroke when cylinder pressure is the highest and fuel is already burnt pushing soot past the rings into the oil..

[@dickbutt7854]

@@anthonyr5869 this is a problem solved by catch cans

[@jimdavidson5208]

Or oil additives breaking down carbon getting into the oil.

[@aominelaw981]

Overheating can make the oil turn black in no time as well.

[@transmissionjimmy69]

Your check engine light is on. That issue needs to be addressed first. I already can tell by how dark the oil gets that it is getting burned from blow by due to weak piston rings. This video series was very informational I’ve been a mechanic for over 35 years but I’m telling you now if you put piston rings in this car it’s gonna run so much better also mill the head down .005” inch for better compression when you rebuild you will love the Power increase

[@cygnus1965]

I doubt rings will Lost more than 5-10k miles. If that. By the time you break the glaze on the cylinders with a hone and measure I would be you have .008-.010 clearance and these cars should be set up at around .003-.004. Now that would be wasting money. I would bet $100 those cylinders are oval shaped and would need to be bored .020.

[@jacksonmatheson]

engine light is probabaly on due to the oil being burnt clogging up the cat, exactly what happened with mine.

[@nidaldajani728]

I like you honest attitude. And yes I learned few things from your videos and Im glad that my learning is heloing you in making these useful videos. Yes, despite the fact that you could have fixed with a rebuild, this new concept of "hey guys learn from my mistakes" is very educational to us. Thanks for sharing and keep it up.

[@waltermatthews5581]

ready to hear the results ! thank you for posting

[@salamrahmon5449]

I actually waited for the outcome before making my mind up on changing my piston rings. Thanks a whole lot for the details.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching!

[@thegasbro9103]

Still enjoying these videos. I have a 2003 Rav4 with a 1ZZ and it burns a quart every 650-700 miles. No leaks, no smoke, drives great and is fuel efficient. These videos are helping a lot!

[@garryli2030]

I just realised how gem this channel is. Just like Scotty Kilmer. Old school and true American spirit-Never abandon your trusty old buddies even they are old and sick.

[@cal48koho]

Yup. It is the piston rings. I replaced mine in the car over a short weekend using higher tension rings. easy peasy.stopped my oil burning. I put on a new head which had new buckets and stem seals.

[@marcusraymundo2160]

this is such a wholesome channel. love your content man!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I really appreciate that, Marcus! ... I've loved watching how-to stuff since I was very little, so I try to make sure my content is safe for the youngsters as well. Thanks again!

[@macbro34]

Sorry to hear Dave! I agree to try the BG Dynamic cleaner, there is also Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10W30 - C883592GA. Its a cleaner oil meant for commercial Cummings diesel engines to clean engine buildup. Can only be purchased at a dealer also....Good luck!

[@annettesurfer]

Back in the day, the common thought was to use dinosaur oil but those days are over. High mileage full synthetic oil doesn't cost much more than regular synthetic and I've seen enough sludge and carbon build-up from dinosaur oil & synthetic blends to understand the difference. One site states: "High mileage oils contain seal conditioners and additives that cause o-rings, gaskets and seals to swell. In some cases, older valve-guide seals in engines may have reduced seepage. This can result in lower oil consumption. Many high mileage motor oils include detergents and claim they are designed to remove sludge from engines." I've been using the extended performance high mileage full synthetic oil that says it protects for 20k miles, but I still change at 5K.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Previous video in this series: Valve stem oil-seals part 2 start to finish: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mnrbdZ1vZbp7pM0 Next video in this series: Blue Driver Scan tool results - Shooterlube comparison: kzbin.info/www/bejne/g4PKdaqZq7yBr9E Entire oil burning experiment playlist: kzbin.info/aero/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

[@tysonpratt2848]

I e been fighting my mustang with this problem for a few months now. Thanks for the reference point.

[@TheBangBang04]

Hey Dave thank you for the video! Great job 👍. I have to share the crazy thing I've been doing in my Corolla. *First thing is putting Seafoam High mileage in the crank case and driving 200 miles to flush engine out. *Second Change oil *Third, "and here is where I need you to hear me out" take 2 quarts of your full synthetic 5w-30 and 2 quarts of 5w-40 full synthetic diesel oil and put both in your engine. "The diesel oil has much higher detergents in it than normal gas engine oil." It will help clean the stuck piston rings by throwing a lot of cleaning detergent at them. My 2005 Corolla has 384,000 on it now and it only consumes 3/4 of a quart over 5,000 miles.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Ryan. How much oil was your Corolla using to begin with?

[@TheBangBang04]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY At around 270,000 miles ish... It was using 3 quarts over a 5,000 mile oil change interval. I actually wasn't sure why I was changing it due to it using it so fast and me adding it so often hahaha.

[@Clayman302]

Welp ill add another thing to try. How much seafoam were you adding? Ill give it a shot. I drive this car 500 miles a week on my commute. Ive ran 5w-40 and 15w-40 in mine just to try and slow it down and i get it for dirt cheap because im a diesel mechanic. Ill give this a shot this weekend since im due for an oil change anyway. Ive also tried two quarts 20-50 and 2 quarts of Dex/merc atf with no luck because ATF is extremely high in detergents.

[@TheBangBang04]

@@Clayman302I put 8 oz in the crank case 200 miles before an oil change.

[@TheBangBang04]

@@Clayman302 I would not use the 15w or the 20w oils they are to thick for our little oil pump. You may over tax it and cause it to starve itself of oil. Thus not lubricating the oil pump and obviously not getting enough oil to the top end. 5w40 diesel oil is designed for small diesels with a turbo that uses the engine oil to lubricate the turbo. It still needs to clean all the soot out but also get into all the tighter clearances inside that smaller turbo. That is basically what we are trying to do with the diesel oil, really get in there and clean those rings. After you notice the consumption is non-existent or just way better go back to the 5w30 and do the 8oz of Seafoam thing 200 miles before an oil change. This is what I've been doing and it is better than it was by a lot.

[@thedeadman3848]

Kool update Dave! Patiently waiting for the next update... 😉

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks 👍

[@alberttibbets6567]

Really enjoy this research. Also love the photography, even the bird songs in the background. Thanks.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I really appreciate that, Albert!

[@davidzamora2892]

No one should complain about you making money you're just hustling a lot of people don't even want to get out of their couch keep doing what you're doing

[@Boz1211111]

Very cool to watch. This is something id like to do if my resources werent limited. Valuable research and im looking forward to more piston cleaning/disassembly to see what was really causing the problem and was it fixable with additives/detergents/solvents

[@kennyheralal4844]

It the valve seals were leaking, it would smoke on deceleration

[@Glenn_123]

Loving this series extremely, educational..... Hoping you can try the product that we discussed about a month ago the one one that Scotty Kilmer is promoting. Thanks again for doing all of this.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Glenn. I remember, ATS 505 CRO. Looks like you have to buy a case of 12. www.atscarbonclean.com/product/case-of-505cro-oil-system-treatment/ ... ... or buy it from this place www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ATSDSI1040.htm?pn=ATS-DSI1040&SVSVSI=226&DID=210771 ... but both are "temporarily unavailable."

[@JAMESWUERTELE]

Can someone send this poor man a Fumoto Valve 😁 also you are doing a great job, and you are doing a fine job NOT PREFILLING the oil filter. You run the risk of sending dirt through first run. Good job 👍🏻

[@Texxas750Cruzer]

I was thinking same thing 😂

[@joshgarcia6760]

The oil control ring is sticky, run a full bottle of seafoam high mileage in the crankcase, and accelerate and take it on the freeway multiple times, cleaned my camry and the oil stopped disappearing, also make sure you change pcv every oil change.

[@doneB830]

In life you must never listen to most people, if you disagree with 80 % of people you are probably right. I really enjoyed these episodes so keep up the good work.

[@snubbelbuff1471]

It's a learning experience!!

[@dwendt44]

I always change the filter first. Less chance of a 'splash' you didn't expect.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Yes over filled the oil again. Be careful NOT to hold the yellow stick end down. It skews the oil reading the longer you hold the stick. Also look on the back side of the stick to compare oil levels.

[@muneyoz101]

Thank you for your videos on this series your amazing guy!!!

[@paulcarroll3297]

Great vid thanks Dave. I have exactly the same problem and have tried a couple of additives although I can’t get the same as you here in NZ. I also completed the valve stem seals ( with similar problems ha ha ) and with similar results…a small improvement but still a problem. All my compressions are good so I am coming to the same conclusion as you are…oil control rings. I will await your next video with interest. I believe there was a piston change in 2003 production. Thanks again for the vids.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Paul. Yeah, if we end up doing the rings, we might get those upgraded pistons.

[@sierushop]

Hi over there to you both guys. Do you think it could be a problem with the head gasket? What do you think about this possibility? Is there any trace of oil creeping out from the meeting surface of the head and the block for instance?

[@patrickviens9285]

There's one thing i have always wanted to try since there is so many engines out there with oil burning issues and full rebuild of the block are expensive for an old car. If you only want it to stop burning oil and not be brand new, your compression and cylinder walls seems okish. What if you drop the oil pan, remove spark plug to not fight compression, remove rod cap, lower the piston down to the point oil ring is out, but not compressions rings. Maybe chuck the piston with wood while you work on it so it can't move lower. Manually clean the groove until no more carbon. Maybe even drills the oil holes a little bit bigger if possible. Put new oil ring and try to push it back up. Oil ring wont fight you like compression rings. It's time consuming but very cheap in parts. No seal other than the oil pan's one. You would even save head gasket by not touching the head. Is it possible? Would you dare such a task hahaha? It's high risk, but if it's working, really high reward for the price.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I like this idea. I was actually considering doing something similar just before the ring job--- if ring job looks necessary. Thanks for the comment Patrick!

[@thatsonebadhatharry8610]

I think the crank would still be in the way. The pistons will not drop down far enough to get to the oil rings. Unless Toyota engine are different. Between the crank pins and the counter weights being in the way there is not enough room to do what you need to do. BG makes a product that is used for cleaning super dirty cruded up engines. It not cheap and takes a while to do it correctly but definitely easier than a piston and ring job.

[@NoName-tz5ji]

@@thatsonebadhatharry8610I was thinking the exact same things😂

[@brendan2599]

I don't think the oil rings drop low enough to clear the bottom of the cylinder wall. That would result in the oil ring possibly getting hung up.

[@garryli2030]

This car has many problem yet it starts right up no matter when. I really wish to see your video for a 600k miles celebration for your old papa corolla chief.

[@truthsearcherforever3211]

Thank u for making video.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks for watching!

[@truthsearcherforever3211]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY we need people like this on the earth. People that find solutions and share there knowledge freely so next person could progress or find solutions as well. Look into HHO Generator. I believe the reason they say hydrogen needs to be compressed is bc the system in cars is fuel injection. We need to bring back carburetors. HHO Does not burn oil.

[@HanifEFIMechanical]

Good work

[@richiieriich]

Really good video

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks!

[@cobbleup]

I think that the best and fastest method to clean drain back holes is to bring each piston BTC with valves closed, fill the cylinders that are in this position with a solvent that is known to dissolve carbon deposits and with compressed air force the solvent past the piston and hopefully through the drain back holes to clear these holes. The solvent could be collected, strained and run back through several times to get the best use of the product. Repeat with each cylinder.

[@kainestefaniak2751]

I don't have a compressor but this idea sounds great I might have to make something up maybe a bike pump with an adapter of some sort

[@pinonnut]

Problem is caused by Toyota recommending 7500+ mile oil changes. Top down soaks ( not just 4 oz and evaporation the solvent will leak past. Put more in over a few days. There is a GM ring unstick solvent… 20 bucks…. Then lighter weight oils and road trips…. It needs to clean itself the super tech full synthetic is excellent. It’s hard to free gummed up oil rings… hence the long road trips recommended… you’ve done too much already… And when you put solvent in the oil don’t be in a rush to change the oil 10 minutes later, started up and stop it 20 minutes at a time for 10 days straight you need solvents to dissolve the gum. As long as the car is not under old it’s fine.

[@dame9876]

Try installing a KrankVent made by hayden. the 1/2 inch size. splice In the breather hose that is between valve cover and the intake tube before throttle body. it helps keeps a slight vacuum in the crankcase and reduce oil consumption. I have a honda s2000 with 260k on it that burns 1qt every 500 easily. now it’s up to almost 1200miles right after installing it. i’ve literally tried everything just like you. so it’s definitely a ring problem. with the krankvent installed you will hear a slight vacuum when you pull dipstick, is normal. they’re about 100$

[@G5Hohn]

If anyone does have a leaking drain plug, Parker makes this little Stat-o-Seals that have rubber on the inside of the washer, and the rubber is available in Viton, so those washers will last a long time. They seal well.

[@dantheman6698]

i had stuck piston rings and what solved it for me was burning off the deposits by putting the engine under full load at maximum throttle keeping revs over 5,000rpm for several minutes. a hill/slope/mountain several miles long or something is ideal as it wont accelerate that much but it will make the engine work hard and put out maximum heat to the pistons/rings. my car was like yours, previous owner did short journeys and probably never gave the car a good thrash to burn the crap off.

[@davepetrakos1192]

Check out his vid on Berryman. He did the Italian Tune-up you described in that video.

[@dantheman6698]

@@davepetrakos1192 thanks i went and watched it, he had some really good improvement. however he didnt do quite the same as i described as the engine wasn't under maximum load, he needed to do the same thing he did but driving up a hill with full throttle.

[@Pallidus_Rider]

Love the experiments 👍 Curious if use of oil catch can would help, perhaps to prevent oil from being circulated into combustion chamber?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks. I'm seriously considering the catch-can for a future experiment!

[@michaelcrouch1779]

You could go straight for the BG Dynamic Engine flush. Think you can find it for online for around $300

[@seatee4770]

Berryman's chemdip applied through the spark plug hole might work.

[@johnhicks735]

Getter done Dave it's saying one name one video.& Another on the other video.

[@whlawson5812]

Try this idea of connecting a transparent, or semi transparent, hard but still flexible 1/4" tubing onto top of engine valve cover and bring into the car's cabin. Install a very low range compound pressure gauge. Get its reading at idling, at 20mph, 30mph, 40mph and also compare with manifold intake pressure display by a generic OBD2 plug and display unit. Air intake manifold pressure can be as low as -0.5barg or -50kpa. Pressure inside the engine valve cover should be only around - 0.10 to - 0.15barg?. Regard.

[@glenhesketh1]

I haven't seen you do a compression test yet. Keep making great videos.Thanks.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Did one a few videos back… but I’ll probably do another soon.

[@glenhesketh1]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY thanks.i just started watching your videos and they are very informative.I don't know where you get your pascience and dedication from but keep it up.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@glenhesketh1 Thanks Glen. Much appreciated!

[@joshmcclary233]

If you end up deciding to tear down the motor to replace piston rings, I would love to see you try BG products full Engine flush kit (Dynamic Engine Cleaner & Rinse Oil) before you tear down, you'd have to know someone who works at a shop as they don't sell directly to consumer, but I've heard amazing things and would like to see if it helps your oil ring problem. As I am having the same exact symptoms and been following since your first video!! Love the content my friend

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Josh! I'd love to try the BG system and hope to try it as a grand finale before a rebuild (if a rebuild is necessary). A viewer offered to send me the BG kit several months back, and I said "yes please," but he seems to have disappeared. ... Hopefully I can work something out.

[@joshmcclary233]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I'm not sure where your located, but I think I could aquire the kit and work out getting it sent to you as well if you can't find any! Also, couple ideas for videos, I burn about a 1qt every 500 miles, I switched to a platinum high mileage oil and used Lucas Oil Stop Leak as directed, and got almost 1000 miles before I was a qt low, so it certainly seemed to help my problem a little. I also would love to see the proffesional line LiquiMoly engine flush used on your car as well as I've heard that's a Great product, would be cool to compare that to the BG service. Maybe one variable you could try is just switching to a 5w-40 high mileage oil, with no other variables/additives and do your 300 mile test to see if the slightly thicker oil helps with the consumption? Cheers!

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

@@joshmcclary233 Thanks Josh. Seems like a lot of people are recommending the Penzoil Platinum. I like the LiquiMoly flush idea too, as we wouldn't have to wait on results. I think I'll put that on my list. ... If you're really interested in helping with the BG kit, you can go to the "About" on my KZbin home page. and there's a button to click "for business inquiries." It'll give you my email. Thanks again for you interest!

[@falcorthewonderdog2758]

Risolone high mileage engine treatment highly recommended for this issue.

[@E85_STI]

You’ve done a lot of testing for sure so I bought an 08 acura tl type s and the oil pan is leaking from the seal but only from a certain spot and the pan has hondabond which could be the old owner didn’t install it properly so what additive do you think works well with hondabond rtv? I’ve used Bars one seal and it didn’t work do they sent me the most expensive additive they have which should be able to stop it but I haven’t used it yet.

[@creative_vlad]

I wonder what caused that “check engine” light to come on?

[@lechero1811]

Any oil that is burning is also going through the Air/fuel, and O2 sensors then the cats. This contamination will result in a P0420 eventually. Replacing the cats will merely add more cost to your experiment, and they too will fail. Less oil will extend the life of the cats, but they will fail.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Rislone and GM AC Delco engine treatment are the best.

[@JohnPham2015]

Just wondering, did you try adding some Durable Lube to your engine to see if it help?

[@cppower14]

I have a 2005 Camry with the 2.4 I-4, and at around 160K started burning oil like yours is. I pulled head, oil pan, pistons, honed the cylinders and installed new rings and gaskets. I reused the rod bearings due to them looking like new, now I have 221K and some change on odometer and doesn't use hardly a drop of oil now. I have maybe $300 bucks into it and that was 4 years ago. The re-ring kits are fairly cheap for the Toyota's just a pain to do timing with it having a timing chain.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Glad to hear. Hopefully one day this one will have a happy ending too. 😀

[@mbburg2149]

We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla that we use for work. It's an oil burner era car. This car was burning oil as I had to add one to two quarts every 2000 miles. Mechanic advised and he told us to fill oil to high mark on dipstick. Then add another quart or two. Car stopped burning oil period. Car know has 206,000 miles and doesn't burn oil and gets regular 3000 mile oil changes.

[@adapa5075]

try Dynamic Engine Restoration from BG. they seem to clean engine pretty well.its a bit on the expensive side but i have high hopes

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Will definitely keep that one in mind. That'll probably be the last chemical before re-ringing :-)

[@everythinghonda5619]

Try the AMSOIL motor flush or try some Lucas oil stabilizer with your next oil change/top off I’ve had pretty good luck with them in the past

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'll keep the AMSOIL in mind.

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

Short of a total teardown and each part soaked & scrubbed, this engine needs to be *_rinsed out_* and use 0W-30 oil with frequent oil filter changes, until it is clean- then use only 0W-30 as oil. The "rinse" is 1qt kerosene + 1qt conventional ATF and the remaining 0W-30 to 1/2 qt over full. Idle at 3k RPM 30 minutes, drain HOT overnight. New filter each time. This must be performed at least twice, back to back. 2 quarts kerosene 2 quarts conventional ATF 7 quarts 0W-30 2 filters. After this procedure, refill normally with 0W-30 & a filter. Spirited driving, highway is low RPM, transmission is doing all the work of torque. High revs and long idling keeps engines clean. Police cars & ambulance rarely shut down- run 200k - 1,000's of hrs. frequent oil & filter based on hours, not miles.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I like the 0W-30 idea. I can see how it would help with the cleaning.

[@craigiefconcert6493]

Hey Dave, I have the same oil pan as you and the o e thing I hate is trying to pour the used oil from the pan into a container. I figured out to drain the oil directly into a container which I put inside the oil drain pan to catch any drips.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Good Idea. Yeah, this one is a pain to empty.

[@davepetrakos1192]

Not sure about Toyota, but on my Benzs I use a vacuum and never touch drain plug. Like DIY Dave would do, I vacuumed, then pulled plug to find not even a drop. I drained with plug and there was leftover for vacuum. Unfortunately, not every drain pan and dipstick tube configuration gets same results.

[@Mikelp73]

I have a Honda crv. 09 with 124k. Last oil change I forgot the crush washer. I was crushed when I found it in the drain pan. It has not leaked a drop.

[@paulcollins9094]

Please sir, use a tire chalk and at least one jack stand under when using ramps, I've seen them collapse sideways from a wind gust

[@jonathanrodarte03]

What about trying out amsoil engine flush and than amsoil signature series motor oil and see if there's improvement because amsoil Claims to be 100%full synthetic and can last up to 20k miles or year I believe and after seeing some amsoil videos I would really like to see that put to test on this vehicle.

[@jrm163]

I think replacing the valve stem seals at an early stage will help prevent the rings to freeze! After the rings freeze, it’s just too late!

[@eacalways]

Would using a thicker oil help reduce oil burning?

[@epicraptorman]

I fill the filter myself if I can. 75% of engine damage occurs on cold startup. And a cold startup that needs to put the oil through the filter first is just that much more half seconds of wear

[@muneyoz101]

Always show safety first by applying the emergency brake, supports system with wheel caulks to caulk the back wheels to prevent a car from dropping or rolling away for some unknown reason. Its alot of amateur mechanics out there and DIY's so let's keep everybody safe, carry on with your brilliance sir.

[@TheOverisel]

The ring lands have been pressure/heat compacted with carbon over time. If that expensive BG Dynamic Clean don't cut it no pour in product will. You'd have to use your connections to get the BG system as they only sell it to shops. A shop owner in New Jersey who has a podcast says mixing brake fluid with the oil is a LAST ditch hail Mary for internal cleaning.

[@azmisalleh6465]

It does but only smoke during cold start.

[@dominozonda]

Hey Dave, it would be interesting to see if there is still oil leaking from the top of the engine now that you replaced the spark plug valve cover gaskets and the valve stem seals as it was the case in your previous borescope videos I rewatched those parts and wonder whether that problem still exist or it was resolved

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I'm planning to rescope as part of the next (Corolla) video to look at that very thing, ronda. I think there are going to be some surprises :-) ... Thanks for the comment!

[@dominozonda]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I thought the oil was leaking only in cylinder 3 from what I remembered, but when I rewatched I think I saw oil in cylinders 2 and 4 as well, although 3 was the worst, funny how memory works sometimes! Looking forward to your next video

[@mongomongo17]

i wonder if filling the cylinders with piston kleen and turning the motor over by hand ,and letting in soak ,would work,

[@teddystoner8288]

Try a high rpm, under extreme stress, run on the car. Its worked for me. A Toyota tech told me to do this.

[@gratefuldale117]

The Italian Tune Up! Use a bottle of Jectron, a bottle of Royal Purple Gas Treatment and a bottle of AUTOPROFI Cat Cleaner together before that good hard long fast drive, gunning it up to 90-100mph as long as you feel safe, and truly blow the crap out! Of you put it in a nearly empty tank and use High Octane to fill/mix it is just a bonus. I did that after using the LiquiMoly Engine Flush before a 225 mile cross Florida trip and even in my 6600 lb Tundra got nearly 14mpg, up from 8-9 local short driving a while. Got over 15 the next same long trip averaging 75mph. Also, oil use decreased significantly. Am sure the old girl could use more new bits and pieces but why go nuts if it doesn't need it. LOL

[@JimmyCoor-jc7hc]

Amsoil power foam is expensive, but it works

[@TheFabry983]

Soak the piston into Chem-dip by berryman. It is the strongest out there. If you cannot free them this way, only rebuilding will fix it

[@christopherayers1435]

Put asatone in their let set for a day or two also run a gallon of it in the gas tank

[@stephenparker9735]

Have you considered pouring Acetone or Ethyl Acetate into the cylinders? From using these in the past (not for this)I know they are excellent at breaking down carbon, they might stand a chance of freeing the rings if they are stuck from a carbon build up.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I haven't looked into the Ethyl Acetate, but someone warned against the Acetone, saying it would eat through seals. I'll check it out. Thanks.

[@stephenparker9735]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Don’t think you’ll have any contact with any seals if your just filling the cylinders. You could flush the cylinders with some brake cleaner after letting them soak in the acetone to flush any remaining Acetone out.

[@janipulkkinen8065]

Acetone should work nicely. I think it is the most used carbon dissolver in chemical industry. It is used to suspend the carbon to filter out any impurities like graphite or active carbon. Filter it and then just flash off the acetone and you are left with just carbon. If you are concerned about the engine seals you could leave the oil drain plug out while keeping the cylinders topped up with acetone. And to fight evaporation, put the spark plugs back in hand tight. If you have a cheap lawnmower maybe you could try the acetone on it's pistonhead first. Also i have been looking into a product called Piston Kleen. Made out of 1-5% pentasodium triphosphate. I wonder if one could get their hands on to some 100% stuff. Piston Kleen is supposedly 50 times better at dissolving carbon from firearms than other fiream cleaners. Haven't tried it and haven't looked into how toxic the stuff is. In the olden days people used to clean the sludge out of crankcases with diesel fuel. Supposedly cleans carbon deposits also and is supposed to be seal friendly i guess. Just fill the whole thing up to the brim and let it soak a day maybe even two. After that let most of the diesel out. Try to leave the amount in that you would have oil in the engine. Check that the bores aren't filled with diesel. Take the spark plugs and the fuel pump relay out. Then run the engine with the starter just to circulate the diesel around the oil passages. And to get any dissolved stuff out of the passages. After that let it drain. And do a couple oil changes letting the engine idle up to temperature in between. If feeling brave you could also replace one quart of the engine oil with diesel and let the engine idle for 30 to 60 minutes in 2 or 3 cycles letting the engine cool off some in between the cycles. Seems to be ok for the bearings if kept at idle. The above I have tried once. Bought a neglegted car. Engine sludged up. Did the cleaning with diesel. And drove the car for another 20 000miles until aquiring a more spacious car. My family member still has the car and it is in working order ,appears that the procedure didn't do any harm. Helped on oil burning some, but the turbo seals and valve stem seals needed changing too. The car now has around 260 000 miles on the clock.

[@arthurmiller8336]

I used to work in a machine shop the other thing that causes oil burning besides valve stem seals and bad piston rings is bad valve guides if your valve guides are worn quite a bit nothing you will do will work right until all the valve guides are replaced it's kind of hard to tell what the heads on the engine you need to take them off take the valve springs off and wiggle the valves inside of the valve guides but that was a big problem with those cars burning oil too a lot of them use really cheap valve guides

[@yangthao4612]

Those oil drain back holes are nearly impossible to get soaked and cleared, maybe if the soak and cleaning was done early early in it’s life periodically as maintenance in its life then yes it will work but, nearly impossible to clear those holes caked hard up with carbon, just pull and rebuild or replace pistons, the soaking can drastically improve stuck oil control rings that have been carbon up but to clean the holes is nearly impossible

[@saypuppy4266]

I think I heard right this is a 2002 Toyota Corolla? They are notorious for oil burning. Toyota gave this motor too much stroke. They fixed this in 2003+ so before 2003 they are known for burning oil.

[@alan-leung]

Double check the cylinder walls with your borescope. The video you shoot before showing wall on cylinder 3 is full of leaking oil, and you think the oil is come from valve stem oil seal leak, so I think it is time to verify it. With reference from The Car Care Nut channel, it is best to inspect cylinder walls by a dual-lens borescope.

[@keld7223]

that's right, the cylinder walls are the problem, but would still be interesting to see how new rings go, keep up the good work

[@Jason-kn3tw]

Bores would be glazed up if it was using oil from the valve stem seals , you'll need to at least give it some more miles to bed in- unglaze itself Using that much oil easy test anyway , hold revs up at constant rpm if theses a consistent stream of blue smoke even light it's rings , if clouds of smoke on start up or when backing off and accelerating again it's valve stem seals or guides - cheers

[@Clayman302]

Ive tried most of the fluids you have on my 2000 Corolla with no luck. Im considered mixing diesel fuel or kerosene in the oil to see if that works. Ive tried seafoam, marvel mystery oil, lucas motor treatment, ATF, engine restore, stp oil treatment. Hoping you figure something out I really don’t feel like doing rings but if i do i only paid $200 for the car.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Wow, you've tried pretty much all the stuff folks are recommending. Thanks for the info!

[@plightn]

Not a waste of time if you're tinkering and experimenting :)

[@duffman6675]

10W-30 would only be thicker (higher viscosity) than 5W-30 when cold, not when warmed up, so probably would not affect oil consumption much. Going to xxW-40 might help oil leaking, but could affect the VVTi, or main or rod bearings, NOT recommended. It might even reduce the flow rate through the piston oil ring drain holes, getting hotter, sludging more, reducing the size of the holes and making the problem worse. Some DIYers online remove the pistons, drill more and larger drainback holes, and put the pistons back in. My 2004 Vibe is ok so far at 80K miles. I did raise the oil level per the Matrix TSB recently, I have not seen any foaming.

[@pinonnut]

Well thinner oil will get into the gummed up oil rings better… thicker oil does slow down the problem but better to take on long road trips driven higher rpm’s and get those oil rings cleaned up… beats tearing down the engine… But if he is going to tear down the engine he should look and see if Toyota changed the piston design and oil ring design and replace with the upgraded

[@JAMESWUERTELE]

@@pinonnutthey did change the piston design with a completely new part number with new pistons.

[@imzjustplayin]

Going with something as 'thick' as 20W-50 isn't appreciably thicker than something as thin as 0W-16. 20W-50 oil is around 20cST (Centistokes) at 212F while 0W-16 is around 8cST. That seems like a large difference but when you consider a 0W-16 oil is around 100cST at 100F, and 1000cST at 40F, it's easy to see that the purpose of going with thinner oils is to improve cold start ability and fuel economy when the engine is warming up. In Australia and countries in the middle east, Toyota specifies 20W-50 oil in hot climates anyway. Most of the push for thinner viscosity oils is for meeting government fuel economy requirements and for better cold start ability. I have this car and I use the thickest oil possible and it runs fine. I haven't carefully measured the fuel economy penalty of 5W-50 vs 0W-30 oil but I'd say when it's 50F outside, it brings my average down from 35mpg to 30mpg on trips less than 4 miles. On trips of 15 miles or more, there is no fuel economy penalty.

[@ericbeard7007]

On saab 93 linear 05 had coolant problems so replaced most parts. Not leaking but there's is pressure building inside and it overheats. When I turn heat on goes away. I open cap pressure goes away? Any thoughts

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Is the radiator fan or fans working?

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

Hey Dave, was there any special procedure to filling the coolant and removing air pockets? do you use one of those spill free funnels and "burp" the system?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I don’t recall removing any coolant hoses to do this job, James. 🤔

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oh, right. you didnt pull the head. sorry. mine is air locked and im having heck with it

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Aw, man, hate that for you. Coolant issues are not fun.

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY no biggy. new (to me) car, ill figure it out.

[@MaggotCZ]

Do you guys have engine flush called TEC 2000 in the US ? Not only there is whole channel dedicated (from poland) with before and after videos of it fixing compression and oil usage but it also helped me with M54 based E46 BMW. That thing was taking around 1 quart per 1200 miles. Now iam at around 3000 miles per quart. Which means iam only topping off the oil once per oil change. The engine also has notorious problem with piston rings. It was just a suggestion, engine flush is kind of the same principle no matter who makes it but it appears some of the brands add their own "know how" into the mix. Other option as suggestion would be BG 109 EPR, which i know comes from US so you can definitely pick it up. They even have specific use case for engine flush like 30 minutes and actually holding RPM at 1500+ while the procedure is happening. Which i dont think i saw another engine flush instructions to have it.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I just did a search and couldn't find it available for purchase here .. so I guess not.

[@iansnell1875]

Good video. Id just go 1 step thicker on the oil weight and observe. i doubt it is a gunk issue, the rings are just worn. If your really adventurous you could rebuild and do a quick hone and new rings.

[@iansnell1875]

Or find a Donor junkyard engine.

[@stevecooper8121]

You can't do a hone job on a toyota. The clearance is to small you would lose lots of compression. Once you have any kind of cylinder wall damage on a toyota it's junk yard material.

[@garryli2030]

Yoo chief. How long you change your engine oil? Mine 98 papa corolla has excessove oil consumption too,I am afraid should i change it before 5000 miles or no.(Castrol edge 5w30 full synth from walmart,. Changed 6 months ago)

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I bought this one when it already had an oil burning problem ... but I try to change my oil between 3-5000 miles. I don't do extended oil changes.

[@garryli2030]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks boss. Good advice to keep this old papa corolla running still even it's almost dinosaur. Poor man like me still need them to take us to the place we want so we can make our own living!!!

[@nelsondimas8157]

Give Engine restore a try, project farm did a good review on it

[@dantheman6698]

run engine flush for longer, 5-10mins isnt enough, a good hour of idling would really help. if you are too scared, just make sure to use engine flush that has anti wear additives.

[@pinonnut]

Exactly, people are too afraid, and manufactures are scared to recommend what’s really needed, when it’s a quart and a half low, do for a toil change anyway, put in a quart and a half of motor flush, run it for a half hour a day for a week in the driveway, let it sit for a few days, then change the oil… Center wait oil to get into those clogged oil rings… Not 10W-30 5w 20 Then go on a road trip and drive fast for 1000 miles… That will reduce the oil consumption by half, and then religious oil changes will keep cleaning the rings (Hopefully if they’re not turn to super glue already)

[@jimdavidson5208]

Top rad hose is not OEM. Looks cut too short. See the white exposed plastic on rad hose nipple? And non OEM clamp?

[@coryshook7648]

I cant take it anymore. please get yourself a graduated cylinder of some kind. Preferably in milliliters. Yes Im American. If you are going to be precise. be precise! I love your videos .

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Yeah. I really should.

[@chrishead1534]

Check out the car care not hes a Toyota mechanic and he has a whole show on show on KZbin called Y toyota's burn oil and what to do about it.. His bottom line is change your oil every 3 to 5000 miles Or every 6 months from day one don't take the manufacturers suggested 10,000 mile oil changes

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

I love The Car Care Nut, Chris!

[@javierrodriguez3821]

Try wih BG Dnamic engine cleaner, before tear down the engine. Is expensive but It does clean the engine. If that engine is only dirty it Will solve the oil burnig.

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Thanks Javier. BG dynamic engine cleaner is probably coming soon. We’ll see!

[@williamclerkin8151]

Sir it is pistons drain back holes drilled at a up angle instead of being down. Toyota issued the recall. You will need to replace pistons and rings. You will find oil ring groove full of carbon. Like you videos

[@ricebike]

Wait, you're not using an aluminum crush washer on the drain bolt? I'll mail you one or two (I bought a bulk pack of 14mm crush washers to last me a lifetime)

[@davidknibbs9646]

Try mobil 1 oil filter

[@aurorayoru5333]

In this car also officially calls for 10W-30

[@anthonyr5869]

You need to use sea foam in the crank case and drive 300 miles. Accelerate the car. You also need to use Lucas injector cleaner along then way.

[@ericcartier3281]

See all episodes in series. He’s literally tried everything methodically. There’s just not enough detergent power once the oil return holes get clogged

[@anthonyr5869]

@@ericcartier3281 I would say do it over and over…

[@EricVonHunter]

Been waiting for this...my 02 Corolla at 186,000 burns like yours, yet my GFs 01 at 208,000 doesnt

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

Crazy eh? ... Do you know any of their history that might clue us in to why one burns and one doesn't? Thanks for the comment!

[@EricVonHunter]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Some of their history. The 01 is a salvage vehicle that received a rebuilt title in New York in 2014. The 02 is a clean title that apparently sat for 3 years till I purchased it in 2018 in California. They both drive great. Just the 02 burns oil at about the same rate as yours does. Here's another suggestion. I was reading some stuff on the Toyota forums and someone mentioned Valvoline Blue RESTORE OIL (Not Valvoline Blue standard oil). It's engineered for Cummins engines that had a bad sludge issue but safely can be used in gasoline engines. The problem? Can I let be purchased at a Cummins dealer. Cannot be purchased online. It has a ton of additives (including Ether) for cleaning pistons and rings and claims it can be all fixed in one oil change cycle. Another negative? The oil is about 75 dollars a gallon. I'm going to try to pick some up here in Wichita next week and try it.

[@EricVonHunter]

@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Furthermore, the 2002 was a transition year. They probably rushed the 02s out to get started on the 03s. That could be a reason as well.

[@DiggingNorway]

Is the car smoking excessively from the exhaust ?

[@FamilyFriendlyDIY]

No smoke while driving. It Wil send a puff after being parked for a few hours.

[@javedalimuddin7779]

Try engine restore additive