Diesel Heater Experiment - Turning Foresty Forest's Van into a Death Trap

[@luthersaldana]

👆How to start a Foresty Fire

[@joeheid4757]

😁🤣😂😅😜🤪

[@moteroargentino7944]

Don't mind me, just picking up my sides...

[@Crap873]

😂👍

[@nancyjohnson9013]

hahaha lol...good one!

[@R6-D2]

lmao

[@campingwithsteve]

Cool experiment. I've got my diesel heater coming on Saturday for the bus. I'll probably just do it by the book haha, hope all is well man.

[@TheDarklingWolf]

Looking forward to the install video, hope the step twos don't interfere too much :P

[@charleshankbukowski4426]

sup steve! big fan, i think its about time for a step two!

[@Oizys13]

Hyped to see more bus videos! Good luck with the install.

[@marianfrances4959]

👍🇨🇦💜

[@morestyforest4325]

Hey Steve, that's great! Good luck with the install, don't put the body bag to permanent use!!!

[@larry4762]

Just sitting around looking for trouble. Glad you put it back the way it should be.

[@rutterj2]

I'm no engineer but that seems like a very efficient way to turn your bed into a funeral pyre.

[@veritas2145]

Yep. Lol

[@oldpete95]

Hahaha

[@peem1244]

I'm beginning to think there's a bit of Viking in Foresty.

[@MrAdolfsson81]

You have to consider that excess heat will also dry out the surrounding wood, causing the ignition point to lower, making it easier to ignite.

[@chatteyj]

I know fire needs three things oxygen, fuel and heat but to actually start a fire its a lot trickier I can't see how this would combust

[@truckguy6666]

soak the wood with diesel or kerosene and it will stay nice and wet, much safer

[@gibbsm]

@@truckguy6666 diesel will put a match out, so this checks out?

[@marianfrances4959]

LOL blame Moresty! He does have some whacky ideas. Keep us posted on the results! 👍🇨🇦🔥🌲💜

[@MN-ug1bh]

I’m glad you decided against the change . No amount of saving money is worth your life

[@agentorange1556]

Eh… it’s only Moresty’s life. He’s dispensable.

[@andytaylor1588]

@@agentorange1556 Sure, but his content is what's REALLLLLLY important.

[@CC58]

I'd be worried about vehicle travel shaking that thin tube till it has a hairline crack that would emit CO into the cab. You'd need a thick walled heat exchanger to be safe.

[@hotlavatube]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. However, adding a heat exchanger inside the vehicle would add to the complexity of the solution. You'd have additional connections and would want a maintenance schedule for cleaning/inspecting the heat exchanger. Frankly, I would keep a simple solution and eat the fuel cost or go with an electric blanket. I hope he's been maintaining his CO detector also as they expire after about 5-7 years.

[@rythemzlatin]

• Those thin wall exhaust pipes have NO PLACE inside a vehicle. 💀 A leak waiting to happen. ☠ • There's PLENTY of room underneath to fashion a heat exchanger of some type tho. i haven't done it yet , but i was thinking of ditching my 24" pipe for a longer 1.5 or 2M pipe i saw on eBay as follows: (a) 90° elbow coming out of the furnace maybe 7-10" (b) couples to a straight run 1.5 - 2M long version horizontal pipe (c) that straight run passes thru a slightly shorter { so that the couplers are easily accessible when the thinwall rots-out } 2.5"-3.25" diameter coil of refrigerator icemaker copper tubing which absorbs the heat from the exhuast pipe ; it would look like a tightly wound helical spring (d) the 2nd coupler & a short tailpipe downward elbow \ muffler(s) (e) Note: creator Dave McLuckie found that 3 of those "pass-thru" mufflers in series SIGNIFICANTLY quiets the exhaust. They're super cheap on eBay. (f) oh , & a fully or partially enclosed cover / heat-shield over it all ! • Please don't become SCHMOR'ESTY Forest ( all melted & gooey ) 😉 🔥🍢

[@ve2vfd]

@@rythemzlatin I agree that flex-pipe inside the cab is a disaster waiting to happen. I would absolutely use rigid tubing with welded connections.

[@dann6067]

CO poisoning is overrated, i have a CO canister from which I inhale every day. It keeps my diabetes in check.

[@hotlavatube]

@@dann6067 Are you sure you mean CO (carbon monoxide) and not CO2 (carbon dioxide)? Therapies using carbon dioxide are more common, but it looks like TINY amounts of carbon monoxide are being tested for treating diabetic blindness. However, assuming you do use carbon monoxide, there's a big difference between knowingly inhaling a carefully metered amount of carbon monoxide and breathing unknown amounts of carbon monoxide over a longer period of time. Carbon monoxide is produced by incomplete fuel combustion. At increased levels of CO in the air, it replaces the oxygen in red blood cells. As the half-life of carboxyhemoglobin is ~4 hours, it can take several hours for carbon monoxide to be flushed from the body. Thus, if you are in an environment with high carbon monoxide levels in the air, it can accumulate to deadly levels in the body. At lower levels this can take hours, at higher levels it can reach lethal levels in the body in less than 5 minutes. While in the US only 400 die from CO poisoning each year, CO poisoning is linked to 20,000 annual visits to the emergency room, and 4,000 annual hospitalizations. Thanks to information campaigns, the number of deaths is not higher.

[@gint5414]

This one just cracked me up! Foresty thinks first and Moresty does first. Oh the inner conflict of the human condition. So glad Foresty won out!

[@Ajicles]

Look up Exhaust heat exchanger by Polar Power. You can pipe the exhaust into the exchanger and use the hot water (or automotive coolant) to heat your interior.

[@frienddotexe2536]

Hot showers incoming?

[@mattgosson8697]

hvac guy here. this is a type of product and method that could do what you want safe. trouble is to use the coolant as a heat medium the car needs to be on to take advantage. if the batteries can sustain a product like the slant fin kicker and a pump to suit, boom hydronic heating.

[@rickszabo4312]

@@mattgosson8697 You got to wonder if a thermosyphon system could be designed into a heat exchanger and the diesel heater fan or some kind of radiator

[@yodab.at1746]

Search David Mcluckie, a Scottish guy who is an engineer and has tried all this.

[@robertfallows1054]

This sounds like a much more safe solution. Like having an extra radiator? I’m no expert but it does seem to be a bit more safe.

[@dougshins]

"That's like 9 inches, am I right?" 1:05 I lost it. hahaha

[@ShortyG724]

Probably the best subtle joke yet. I had to replay it to make sure I heard correctly 😂

[@user-rz7oy7jc7b]

I remember you trying to recover diesel heater exhaust heat from your minivan build. What you are doing now has the same issues as then. Water vapor is one of the products of combustion. In cold weather, it will condense on the inside of the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe must have a continuous downward slope to let the water drip out the end. If too much heat is recovered off the exhaust pipe (like with a heat exchanger), the water could freeze and build up into a blockage.

[@ryanscott2548]

And too much winding outside exhaust would probably freeze up. Last winter hit -40C in British Columbia

[@r.h.0101]

Very good point!

[@MrOlimar]

100% - I ask read that it’s a good idea to have no more than 270 degrees (angle degrees) of combined bend in the exhaust for efficiency / back pressure purposes.

[@12pawsinn]

Had this exact problem in feb with the propane furnace at -42 to -65c. Ice buildup on the exhaust side and then the intake side is 3 inches below the exhaust port which would freeze up every 8 hours .. I ended up extending my intake 5 inches lower from the exhaust port, so far so good 👍

[@mwint1982]

The road to hell is paved with cheap chinese diesel heaters 😳

[@1HeavyHitr]

And good intentions*

[@roscop.coaltrain9440]

You all got me laughing so hard right now

[@ntdfmaverick]

Hahaha

[@xw6968]

it only works with an North-American brain...;)

[@beam3819]

Just watched a video of tofu dregg building collapses. Yeah, would be a concern with anything chinese for sure!

[@jordanmatthews3401]

No joke, I nearly burnt my van down last week because I had the exhaust pipe (exhaust wrapped) bent internally to exhaust out the side. The metal shield burnt, the wooden floor is sorched and nearly ingited, and the entire van smells like smoke now. No CO issues, but DO NOT LET YOUR EXHAUST PIPE TOUCH THINGS! (Also, love your videos! I started 80-100% full timing in Edmonton area in a grand caravan this year!)

[@Snoogleheimer]

The 'Craftsman Foresty' are my favorite vids.

[@kstigerlily]

Love the title. Life is a death trap, too. So when I feel like I'm in a smaller, less extended death trap, I keep that in mind.

[@ShadowzTubez]

Aside from safety concerns, the diesel heater will run more efficiently the shorter and straighter the exhaust is.

[@klammi85]

Now install a bath tub under that bed and get a warm bath everytime before going to sleep👍

[@thndrgrrrl]

You've built yourself a Viking Funeral!

[@SD-oi9gr]

Death van for foresty, my favourite band.

[@wdjones4735]

I don’t think Toasted Foresty Forest is a good marketing ploy. Glad you came to your senses🤣Thanks for sharing. Have a safe weekend❤️👍🏻

[@pennyh3101]

I wanna see your next video with you in it….Alive and enjoying the great outdoors you have shared with us.. stay safe.. sure there is a safe way to accomplish what you are thinking… keep looking.. God bless

[@MrsRubens]

I’m glad you decided to undo it. I understand the reasoning, but there probably is a safer way to harness that extra heat. Years ago, as a potter, I learned the word thermopyresis. If wood gets too hot for too long, it can combust without a source of flame. I learned this when I installed a ceramic kiln in the basement of an old house. It never did actually combust, but I was greatly relieved when I was able to move the kiln into a dedicated studio space. So yes, it’s a concern to have a source of high heat near wood, even if it’s not directly touching it.

[@joshc1590]

i googled thermopyresis and i got nothing. Thermophoresis maybe?

[@moteroargentino7944]

I couldn't find that term. Isn't it the autoignition temperature? From Wikipedia: "In chemistry, the autoignition temperature or kindling point of a substance is the lowest temperature in which it spontaneously ignites in a normal atmosphere without an external source of ignition, such as a flame or spark. This temperature is required to supply the activation energy needed for combustion. The temperature at which a chemical ignites decreases as the pressure or oxygen concentration increases. It is usually applied to a combustible fuel mixture."

[@SisterShirley]

The safer way to get more heat in your van is to go to Arizona.

[@transamgal9]

I blame all my problems on Moresty...😆 🤣 😂 😹 😆 that guy!!!!!

[@rshanep5226]

Only you can prevent Foresty Fires. 🐻

[@SenorBeanGrouse]

Glad you undid it. All those bends will significantly affect the burn in your diesel heater. Also, remember that water is a product of combustion which will collect in any of those low spots. I also have my exhaust connection inside my van and did actually end up having an exhaust leak recently.

[@deans4559]

Let me guess, this was the better of two ideas...the other being moving your bed outside and sleeping directly beneath that exhaust pipe. 😀 Love your videos, keep up the great work.

[@jimst.laurent9502]

Too funny.

[@Crap873]

😂 LOL

[@foxceles]

I'm glad that you took it out, it's not just losing your van but rather your life thats the most concerning. You would be sleeping on top of that and if a fire broke out, well you are sleeping, fire can spread quicky..... Personally I think that getting a mini wood stove would be your best bet and installing a heat sheild around it. There is still the risk of fire but if installed correctly and with the right amount of safety precautions, the risk would be very very small. People heat entire tiny homes with one, it would do your van no problem.

[@freemanfgteevty6438]

This kind of relates to the "Carnot Cycle". For the last 200 years scientists have been trying to figure out how to get the most out of fuel. Foresty joins a 2 century long line of people trying to figure out how to get the most from fuel.

[@RealJohnnyDingo]

Moresty Forest, citizen scientist! I think this idea still has merit, it could work really good with a heat exchanger and a little fan. these units are definitely built to a price point, so the expense is not justified at the factory. and probably not after market either..

[@SisterShirley]

Don't worry folks. The G E N I U S so-called leaders are going to ban fossil fuels so you really won't have much to worry about. Except for replacing the batteries and how you're going to pay for it. SMH

[@iRaps1]

@@SisterShirley probably smart we stop burning fossil fuels, it's no fun burning fossil fuels if your own damn planet dies and you with it.

[@kst357]

Yeah, you gave me a pretty good idea that I'll explore later. Back before fuel injection & computers became popular in vehicles you'd often find a heat shield bolted to an exhaust manifold and a metal tube would run from it to the air cleaner. The idea was to use the exhaust manifold to heat air & direct it toward the carburetor in cold weather to prevent carburetor icing. I think I can fabricate an enclosure to put around the heater's exhaust pipe to capture that lost heat and duct it to a heat exchanger or additional output vent. As the systems are designed now we're losing a lot of heat out of the exhaust. Recovering even a portion of that heat would make the diesel heaters more efficient & less costly to run.

[@BlackDogDesigns]

Yes, be careful and stay safe we all do care about you and your well-being❤️

[@jordansaintemarie]

Just focus on more insulation. That whole back wall could be insulated. If you’re cold when you’re sleeping get one of those small privacy tents for bed frames and zip yourself in

[@frenchfryfarmer436]

I agree. I am taking a stripped ambo and super insulating.

[@dingfeldersmurfalot4560]

@@frenchfryfarmer436 I thought those were already extremely well insulated.

[@frenchfryfarmer436]

@@dingfeldersmurfalot4560 not necessarily. Even if "well" in a cutaway you still get thermal bridging at alum studs. Standard vans are even worse, designed to be actively heated and cooled. Mostly done for sound dampening. Tearing several apart currently.

[@Aprilforevergreen]

I disabled my KZbin for a week - but had to sign back in this evening mainly because I needed to check if you'd posted because it felt like a while since you had ..... so was relieved when your post today was the first video in my recommended 🤩 I can now switch off again for a while.. keep safe, winter, rain, ice and snow etc.

[@stevemorris3710]

Yeah..... NO! You nailed it when you mentioned not having the exhaust connection and any of the single-wall exhaust in the habitation area :-)

[@catblue6393]

Glad you are sending that pipe back outside. Moresty got out of control on that one. Tell Moresty, safety first.

[@bonniepwtf]

Blame it on Moresty! I'm glad you were wise & changed it back. Too many highly possible risks with that Moresty guy's set up.🔥

[@Kessie4102]

Yeah, that crazy Moresty guy...don't put your life in his hands! 😅🔥

[@bonniepwtf]

@@Kessie4102 😂😂😂

[@GHinWI]

Buy a stainless steel egr cooler (tube-in-shell heat exchanger) and run the exhaust thru that. You could have a small coolant reservoir and pump and aluminum heat exchanger to dump the heat into the van.

[@SEKI14000]

In addition to the obvious safety issues another important consideration is exhaust back pressure. The simplistic combustion of these heaters is very sensitive to exhaust back pressure and/or restriction. For the most part the cleanest and most efficient combustion will occur with a free flowing exhaust, so introducing any additional restriction(curves, etc.) will possibly degrade combustion efficiency.

[@JAMESRS58]

I would be very careful with flex pipe for exhaust .. maybe a muffler shop could fabricate one from rigid pipe and elbows ..

[@jayoneill1533]

I’m glad you backtracked on this idea. It looked like the exhaust pipe would cook the burner unit from below.

[@briancasey4917]

The original VW Bugs had an air chamber around the exhaust. When the car was moving air was scooped to flow to window and floor vents to heat and defrost windows. In later models they added a fan. The system worked well as long as the exhaust was in good condition.

[@kennethwilson8633]

I know diesel isn’t as flammable but yes don’t push your luck the way you bounce down those gravel roads and trails. Anything you build can shake loose and leak or catch fire. Have fun traveling and stay safe.

[@99999janice]

One thing you need to do is get some thermal lined and quilted fabric to cover the doors in the back and the door on the side. You can make the with sewn in magnets to stick to the frame. If you cut off those 2 heat loss points, you will be more comfortable and efficient. Take care. Thanks

[@MingWLee]

Great idea tbh. I would add a good enough computer fan close by that area and blow those heat right into the main body of your van. If you are worry about the heat may burn the surrounding material, using some fire isolate material should do the trick.

[@ryanscott2548]

Build a 1'×1' box with plywood. And line the inside walls with calcium silicate....2100 degree melting point..!! but on the other hand I sure the manual says well ventilated

[@myeyesaresmiling442]

One of my favourite videos, lots of personality showing. Excited to share with the wife as I keep telling her that’s 7”, she’ll be stoked that it’s actually 9”!

[@ryanscott2548]

But.... you holding the ruler upside down....the 9 is actually a 6

[@myeyesaresmiling442]

@@ryanscott2548, no matter how you hold the ruler 👌 isn’t 6”, 7” or 9”! Lol! Don’t even think that would be centimetres! Lol

[@josephpiskac2781]

Yeah glad fo write about my electric heaters. I found two new 250W Soleil heaters that my 400W inverters love and my two battery packs power up with no discharge dips in energy. These little heaters will heat my small RAM PROMASTER CITY VAN in less than two minutes. The weather is not cold enough to run the heaters all night though I am confident the system will keep me warm this Las Vegas winter.

[@MASH--kn1cw]

Love the idea! But yeah, for now, it is better to operate it the original way like you said you were going to do...but, you'll definitely have plenty of time to think of, or come up with many design ideas, for a way to actually reuse the excess heat to your advantage. If it hasn't been done, or thought of yet, a good engineering mind like yours, could be the first to come up with something someday that would actually be safe and effective. Always experiment and learn from failures. It's the only human way to go, the sky is the limit! Keep doing these videos, no matter how short they are, we love watching ANYTHING you have to entertain us with ForestyForest!! 🤙🤜🤛

[@jimst.laurent9502]

Dude...bad idea. Glad you are re-installing it correctly. Not worth dying to save a few bucks! I don't recommend doing videos like this because someone will try it and probably die. I do appreciate your videos.

[@SLIDEWAYSLIDEWAY]

I would love to see your 2ND van build is so inspiring. 😉

[@ftlaud911]

Definitely smart to undo the experiment. I would also advise buying some flameproof material for that area. Would also look into using a secondary pipe. Or exhaust wrap around the exhaust to help with possible leak issues and put detector closer to the heater.

[@debrajol3585]

Wow 😮 seems like a good idea.. that’s not a good thing🔥🔥🚀 Glad you decided to rethink it.. life is beautiful IF YOU ARE LIVING IT 😂 Back in the day my grandma would heat big River rocks & cast iron skillets.. before bed she sat them on a trivets (rocks in the skillets) around the room we slept in and that kept the room semi warm all night long. Years later I remember her having bricks she wrapped in aluminum foil &/ she put those in her cast iron skillets.. 2 or 3 bricks per skillet. Those things put off some major heat!! She said she couldn’t afford to leave the heater running all night so she improvised. I remember it being warm and nostalgic 🤗💯✨. My mom still does this for heat at night to save money.

[@kinn1647]

Hellooo Foresty you need a stainless pipe within a pipe outer pipe filled with water and insulated with a inlet and outlet to a water filled radiator. I made one for Cadburys Chocolate to keep chocky melted in the pipe, any questions just ask its just a heater exchange safely outside the van 👍👍🖖

[@Flowergurl2000]

Moresty, you are a national treasure. Let that keep you warm and let that fire potential go outside.

[@dondurand3048]

If your worried about wood being close to the heater, why are you not using steel studs or furring bar in 25 or 20 gauge. They are not expensive and can be purchased at a drywall suppliers or Home Depot. Steel studs can be cut with pair of metal snips and fastened to other steel with tek/self tapping screws. You can also use cement board to protect an area from combustible material. We have a seven foot high trailer. We protected the plywood by fastening furring bar over the plywood. we then placed cement board one inch up from the floor and went up six feet and placed cement board on top of our cage to protect the plywood in the ceiling. Since hot air rises, this created a chimney effect which also cooled off the plywood.

[@Styder111]

I mean, this is basically like running your car's exhaust through the inside of your car to get a bit extra heat. Really don't think this is a good idea for so many reasons.

[@blueman5924]

if it’s one piece of mandrel bent pipe, no biggie.

[@Ash_18037]

@@blueman5924 It's not one piece, so yes it is a biggie. It's the connection that is a big concern as Forest says at 2:05

[@pauloh3591]

It's not about the pipe it's about the space he created for the heat. The only mind bug is if that plywood would be combustible enough to start a fire. The way I see it.

[@andytaylor1588]

@@pauloh3591 He should add a vent and a blower, to turn the woodsmoke into actual flames, right?

[@pauloh3591]

@@andytaylor1588 or just how high the temp needs to be in order to combust? A lot. But then again... Better safe then sorry.

[@nikip9161]

Safety first, I applaud you 👏 😊🌻💌

[@Luke_Groundwalker]

I knew there was going to be trouble after you made the extinguisher easier to access 😆

[@johnwolf1475]

They have specialized ports for ships. Goes through the bulkhead designed for this. Put a long pipe, end exit with an elbow...right through the outer skin.

[@RADMAN752]

hey, RV tech from Ontario here. as you know what you are doing is dangerous, there are many problems with that setup. the first being too many bends in the exhaust... it restricts the exhaust and will build up soot in the heat exchanger, it may ruin your heater and cause the glow plug to gum up causing failure or incomplete burn.. that exhaust is not designed to be in a unit. these exhausts crack over time and the way you have it all bent like that is only going to make it leak faster.... IN YOUR VAN!. with a direct vented heater i would suggest no more than 2 bends of 90 degrees and have it pointed down and out for proper combustion airflow. condensation will also build up if the exhaust isn't able to have moisture drip out. let me tell you what will happen.. because trust me i have seen this shit before. youll get a tiny bit of extra heat for a couple years maybe, you may forget about the modification you made.... you may have forgot to check your CO and smoke detector recently.... you may have developed a leak.... and you may not wake up the next morning. or what if you sell the van and it kills somebody? sure you can be vigilant about these things but... they happen, dont make is a possibility.

[@ManCaveMinistries007]

Living on the edge baby; toasty warm! Get the heater where it will make toast for ya! Lol. Great idea! Anyone who burns down their van, Foresty is not responsible for you not knowing what your doing. Foresty is the alpha male of heaters and meals.

[@bryancohn9406]

Foresty you are on the right track, just gotta think differently! Google how air cooled VW heat exchangers work and there is your solution to capturing the heated exhaust pipe and using the air it heats to help heat your van. It helps avoid the CO2 problem because you are feeding fresh air into the system. Perfect? No, but 1000 times better than just running the exhaust pipe inside the van. The hard part of this is building the heat exchanger as you’ll need thin sheets steel and welding capability. I could design the heat exchanger in about 30 minutes, it’s not hard. Add in a 12v blower and flex hose rated for high temp and your set!

[@eh42]

Seeing the heater setup with the fresh air intake hose drawing air from outside confirms one of my theories regarding your humidity issues. It is not consuming air from in the van (a good thing! - more energy efficient and no negative pressure to temp CO fumes to waft back in). BUT that means you really need to consider a separate system for drawing fresh dry air in and venting moist air out.

[@jmpattillo]

This ended well. I think the block heater idea is pretty good one. Maybe a secondary heating loop going to a heat exchanger in the main engine coolant circuit

[@jasonstockler]

I am kinda very glad that you decided to back the truck up and put it back. that was kinda scary.

[@aaronthedj12]

It’s actually a great idea. I may try it if and when I decide to build my camper cap on my truck. I’ll run the exhaust near the water tanks to keep them from freezing. Chances are if I’m using the diesel heater, I’ll need to keep the water from freezing.

[@lodazal6571]

Have you seen Bobil Vans water heater? Not recommending but worth a look.

[@aaronthedj12]

@@lodazal6571 not too bad . Great idea

[@aaronthedj12]

@@lodazal6571 looks good. I checked it out

[@CITAP1]

You can fit a larger size flexible electrical conduit over the exhaust pipe and still get the heat inside but with better protection. It will also be much more solid where it penetrates through the floor and exhausts.

[@getlostgary9380]

Good idea. How about use solid tubing and run it thru several closely spaced aluminum plates (heat sink) to disperse the heat over a larger surface area. Maybe 'weave' the tubing thru the heat sink a couple times to give the heat more room to dissipate - and then run the solid tubing thru the floor to the flex pipe connection. Maybe glue some reflective thinsulate to the wood surfaces. If it still got too hot - install a little computer fan with a limit switch (thermo) Also, have you considered buying a muffler from one of the high dollar heater brands to run on your knockoff? - I've heard they're a lot quieter (can't see straight thru them).

[@bradg4433]

@Moresty Forest there is high temp silicone for connecting hot exhaust pipes like that. I needed to use it on a propane gas fridge exhaust.

[@RMJ1984]

It's actually an interesting idea to use the heat. If it can be done safely. Because it really is just wasted, and surely someone has come up with a radiator design that is safe.

[@GABRIEL_CRAFT]

I am really glad you are undoing this Forest. I think it would be a dangerous idea but considering the off roading shake and clunks over time it definitely seems not worth the risk.

[@SingletrackScene]

Interesting idea. -Think I'll agree with your risk assessment though. - it's also vital you have the exhaust as straight as possible, with as less bends as possible for the efficient evacuation of emissions, otherwise you'll get a heat back-up.

[@davediamond1742]

Forest , Like the short vids , you are very smart , place some 16 gauge metal under and over the pipe , at the distance in the crawl space you will get some raidant heat , get one a few chevy g series vans heater cores and build a peks glycol system and heat the floor

[@futuremartillo]

this is a lot like the old VW beetles, being air cooled they did not have a traditional heater but utilized a type of heat exchanger off the exhaust, nice job

[@turkey4957]

The mad scientist 👨‍🔬

[@whynack]

There are also heat resistant paint I recommend Rust-Oleum they multiple heat resistant spray paints for different needs. It has work well for me.

[@PumpkinVillage]

Never know until you try. Good try. Think I would of been nervous about it too. Take care, Al

[@drleo2641]

Seems like a good idea. Actually you could use it like its own heating coil. Snake it far away from things. That's definitely not a permanent fix having it underneath the unit. I'll take a look at the later episodes to see what you came up with

[@shawnlund]

Glad to see you got that reverted back to the original configuration : )

[@CTMadModz]

I had my CO2 detector go off one night in my bus, and I got to looking at what was going on. The exhaust fumes were coming up through the floor because the plate wasn’t sealed very good and the heater was blowing exhaust into my bus. I think having the exhaust inside the bus is very dangerous since it isn’t sealed very good. If it was welded that would be one thing but that worm clamp can’t seal that exhaust pipe off good enough to keep fumes out of your van. You’re playing with fire bud. 🤗

[@whynack]

Hello Forest there are many type of heat resistant tapes available either online in store. I have 7+ years in construction and the brand I am familiar with and use is the 3M high temperature flue tape says if is rated for 600° F. Hope this comment helped you find something that works for you. Thank you for all the great content.

[@suebrown3465]

Moresty has bad plans for Foresty..keep an eye on him! 🇨🇦 ❤️

[@chrisclendenin1832]

That’s how engineers engineer bro Good experiment

[@ve2vfd]

I can see the logic behind the idea, after all reclaiming that wasted heat is why wood stoves are usually installed with a fairly thin single walled stove pipe between the stove and the actual chimney. But of course there are clearance requirements for the stove pipe, it can't be within a certain distance of any combustibles. Also stove pipes have a draft pulling the combustion gasses so leaks are less of an issue. It was an interesting experiment but if I were to do something like that it would be with better clearance from combustibles and a protective shield, and a thicker rigid exhaust tubing (that cheap flex pipe is asking for leaks).

[@TjBruce817]

Some of that foil backed insulation or aluminum tape in the box where the heater is would protect the wood from the direct heat, or id move the heater in more and make a separate box insulated from the heater grab another 2 feet of the exhaust pipe and make a nice coil next to it then down and out.

[@olddav1]

I had a similar situation with the heater in my van. the heat was getting trapped under my counter top. Princess auto sells DC computer fans dirt cheap and they work great. not only draws it out from under the cabinet, but distributes the heat throughout the van. It also draws nothing for amps. Dave

[@thomasmarliere2505]

That’s a very good idea in fact and why waste all that heat after all.. Maybe it could be linked to a heat exchanger before going out, I know it runs with water but maybe it’d be worth testing. Or put heat refractory bricks next to the tube outside and put them back at your feet at night !

[@nicknelson83]

Never comment on YT but you need to switch it back to how it was before, just install another heater if you want more heat! That low point on your exhaust is going to build up with condensation that would be able to make it out, creating an eventual clog, and causing CO to be emitted inside your vehicle.

[@Lt_Tragg]

Here here for what others have said - heat exchanger. It could heat a glycol mixture cycling through plastic tubing under your bed - hydronic heat. Safe, efficient - brilliant.

[@bui340]

How about having a big pipe running from the floor to the roof with outside air circulating through. The diesel heater could be mounted inside the pipe or connected via a short hose. It would be like a chimney/woodstove where the hot fumes rise naturally with no resistans out on top. The possability to effectively dry clothes sounds great! Downside would be trying to sleep with a big vertical pipe through the matress. But that problem could be worked around by flattening it. The exhaust hose inside the pipe should also be really long spiraling upwards with the end on top so that the surface area to exchange the heat is maximised.

[@linebrunelle1004]

I bought the biggest Jackery and use a regular small room heater 3 settings, fan or not, rotates and has a cooling fan for summer. as long as there as there is sunshine or a plug-in somewhere I'm good to go -40. Please be safe. I'm sure you have alarms to warn you of smoke and CO2

[@ykb946]

That looks like the world's wackiest diesel heater install..let me tell yah😁👌

[@karentruempy397]

I've kind of wondered about something similar my van isn't built out yet but the whole middle of my van gets really hot where the transmission and engine are and it would be good to use that heat somehow in the winter but you'd have to find a way to block it in the summer. I know in alternative building homes some people use cobb I believe for their fireplaces and just extend the cobb away from the fireplace to make like a bed that can be warmed up by the extra heat that the fireplace gives off. The bed part of the fireplace is like a heatsink that absorbs the Heat and then later releases it out to the rest of the room overnight. I don't know if something similar could be done in a van but it's an interesting thought and kinda goes along with your experiment of trying to use as much heat as possible

[@makarovkid9696]

Excellent conclusion forestry.

[@swnorcraft7971]

If there is that much heat being lost to the outside, the manufacturer should have made the heat exchanger larger to capture more of the heat before exhausting the fumes. That being said, if one were to attach a well made after market heat exchanger with adequate clearance and an auxiliary blower, then exhaust the fumes outside............ Thanks for sharing.

[@middleway1885]

Thanks for the contents! Any chance in adding a fire barrier to cover any potential issues of the wood catching fire?

[@user-Marrk]

Without a doubt you are one of the most entertaining and authentic van life youtubers out there. I always look forward to your next vid. I do think you made a bit of a mistake though in not insulating the inside of your van. Had you done that then you wouldn't need to be thinking of ways to get more heat inside the van. Would love to see a series of you doing an insulation install, it would probably be a lot safer too! Take care.

[@starbubbli]

Please undo and rethink it all. Your safety and life is most important! Praying for you brother. .

[@Henchman1977]

You could pick up an automotive egr cooler/heat exchanger but you'd still need the pump, plumbing and radiator/fan to make it all work just to chase another 10% efficiency, maybe....

[@robertphillips3893]

Evil Moresty has a good idea. Just don't tell Foresty.