Direct Injection Port Cleaning: Chemical VS Walnut Blasting You Be The Judge

In this video you can find a real alternative DIY to the expensive, special tool requiring process of having a shop walnut blast your car vs the results that anyone can achieve with two off the shelf auto parts store products. This, with minimal effort on your end. You be the judge and tell me what you think.
This is my first official KZbin video so bombs away! Tell me how I can make them better for all of you and SUBSCRIBE. I plan to upload every couple weeks and we'll see where we go together..
SUBSCRIBE and ENJOY!!!

[@davidfrank2824]

Thank you my friend for sharing. I waited until I tried this out myself before commenting. It worked just like you showed. I changed a couple things. I used a toothbrush to rub down the valve stem and instead of going through an entire roll of towels I made a adapter with a small hose and suck everything out. I would spray more brake cleaner suck it out and then with my long needle nose pliers I cleaned up the rest with paper towels. I am really looking forward to trying this out during the summer when I'm working on yard equipment. I think with the mixture of the brake cleaner with the carburetor cleaner will clean any carburetor out with all the junk that gets in there from years of abuse. I definitely hit your like button and subscribe. I figure anyone who gives good advice that actually works at least I could do is show some love by hitting the White and subscribe.

[@JohnSmith-vt5ry]

What’s your thought on spaying them together into the intake with engine at 2000 rpm’s as on the valve cleaner instructions?

[@gee3883]

Probably the most effective diy method I have seen here on YT, i'm going with this. The master key to cleaning anything is to physically remove as much crap as possible before you start and then agitation. Scrape off and remove as much as possible then get the chemicals on the carbon and agitate it. Agitation will help the chemicals to get into and under the carbon. Judging by your results id say they would be near spotless with one more soak and as good as walnut blasting. Get some gloves on dude your skin is a sponge and that sh1t won't do you any favours. A turkey baster will help suck out the crap. Thanks for the vid stay safe Mr.

[@victormoreno2767]

Agreed on removing the big chunks first, will work better, I found an extractor at amazon that I use for my espresso machine that could work to get all the fluids out. Protect your hands too!

[@purplelizardtoes]

Thanks for putting this to the test while documenting, brother! You answered my question in spades.

[@christopherhankins3446]

Great discovery!! I will be doing on my 535xi. Thanks for uploading to KZbin. I appreciate it!

[@joanespik]

I think walnut blasting is more professional, easy and effective than that... Yes, more expensive, but is a service that gdi engines need every max 80/100.000km. And please, remember to say that the valves must be closed ;)

[@sameerg.8384]

No. You need the valves open so you can hydrolock the engine ;P

[@tiemze]

@@sameerg.8384 Agreed :D

[@patricktracy6472]

I saw another vid where a guy made a tool out of a bunch of long zip ties taped together. He taped one of the ends all together and put them in a drill. It worked like the pnumatic rust remover tool only more delicate for cleaning inside near the valves.

[@exeoggtx6051]

Can you please share that video link for us here ? Thanks

[@AbleMable]

@@exeoggtx6051kzbin.info/www/bejne/lYWok6x5et6pmM0

[@brianinglis2199]

I did that on my 1.8tsi. It works but took about 6 hours and still not as nice as a walnut blast

[@kazshamael]

Just did this over the weekend and it worked as expected. The ports were spotless and I used shop towels to absorb it all. The buildup on the valve and stems broke apart but removing all of it was the most difficult as I couldn't just do it with the shop towels. I tried to get most of the bigger chunks out with brushes and picks but it was just too tedious so I decided to leave it. I'd say walnut blasting is the superior method in forms of efficiency, effectiveness, and cleanliness. The CRC route took longer, did like 80% of the job that blasting does, and was a lot messier. However, for like $20 worth of supplies, you really can't go wrong. I really don't think the little bit of gunk that was left behind will be THAT noticeable and since it's loose on the valves, I think it'll eventually fall into the combustion chamber and burn up. Overall, I'm really pleased with the results and glad I didn't spend like $250 for walnut blasting equipment or $400ish at my local indy.

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

Glad yo hear It helped!! Sub for more stuff coming soon.

[@mrtransport2466]

@@longbackjoediysandmo8421 does the valves need to be closed doing this method?

[@cole4987]

@@mrtransport2466 Yes, you don't want the cleaner in your combustion chamber.

[@michaelw6277]

@@mrtransport2466yeah, the valves can’t “soak” in the chemicals if it all leaks into the combustion chamber and into the crank case.

[@JohnSmith-vt5ry]

I am doing my Fusion tomorrow. I plan to shop vac the leftover carbon junks after drying chamber. Did you try vacumming it?

[@terrymarsh8094]

Thanks for sharing Great content keep them coming Have an awesome weekend

[@cornwasher]

Excellent video.

[@valienteyadira]

Thank you for the tips! Looking forward to the next video!

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

You bet!

[@richard-mai]

How does one clean the edges/rims of the valves and port openings?

[@marcosarboleda6081]

That's awesome I've been doing it and always still sticky carbon inside I like to try this next time I open my intake

[@hermanrogers1325]

Now add a oil catch can or air oil separator just a job well done

[@NYskyHI]

did you close the valves before cleaning out? what method did you use to close valves?

[@maikernavarro5069]

Awesome thanks

[@lorddragoono]

thank you!

[@Cleanish_n54]

I'm doing vtt valve cover and so.imms clean my intakes while I'm at it

[@poncho6784]

Evaporating or leaking down into the cylinder where it washes away oil film layer?

[@SGQ12]

How to use both? Sorry kind of slow here.. what my understanding here was. Make it sure the valve was closed then put CRC valve cleaner mix with crc break cleaner? Or put valve cleaner all the way to top then let it soak for 30 mins then use break cleaner for fast dry? I don’t know please teach me. Huge thanks and for help.

[@coynor1]

Not bad for not having to put any elbow grease into it. What I'm mostly worried about thou is getting the valves spotless. That's what makes them run more efficiently that's why we have to do this job cause "direct injection" the fuel doesn't spray on the back side of the valves this is why people will spend the money for walnut blasting

[@DavidTMSN]

An oil catch can will prevent a lot of this buildup - especially for tgdi.

[@nobodyimportant_23]

I wasted so much time doing the CRC/Seafoam intake cleaning every other oil change. When I finally took off the intake manifold to inspect the ports, they were as dirty as yours. I also did a scrape, chemical soak, then shop towel, air compressor, vacuum. I wouldn't characterize this process as particularly effortless though. Carb cleaner works much better than PEA intake cleaner in my experience. Also I found it difficult to brush behind the valve stem.

[@juandeloya4983]

is not about how profecional looks( walnut blasting)is about the results...I think I believe is a great way to go if you dont have the walnut blaster ....very good result!! people who coment negativly is because they never have the knowlege and mentality to learn new ways to fix things.

[@YS-kb9nc]

I would have been done bu now with the walnut blaster and a shop vac

[@hermanrogers1325]

You also needed some a tooth brush or a soft steal brush and a drill to loosen up the junk on the first pass

[@marcelotosin931]

Hi, thanks for the video. It is very useful. Have you tried a port filled with break cleaner only?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

I haven't. I'll try it in the future and compare.

[@BimmerZen]

Useful video! How many cans of each did you use?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

I think, like 1 or 2 of CRC and 4 of brake cleaner.

[@BimmerZen]

@@longbackjoediysandmo8421 Tnx!

[@yogichi108]

Save a few hundred?!?! Lol... they want $2000 to walnut blast at an Audi specialist in my area?!?! Thanks for the vid... how does the car run now? Any difference in the idle/performance?

[@theeinsuranceguy]

A local Indy shopped quoted me 800 in labor to walnut blast my RS5

[@JohnSmith-vt5ry]

My Fusion has 40K so I decided to just do a CRC spay into intake cleaning via engine running then at 50K do walnut cleaning. This gives me a little time. QUESTION - since the non chlorinated Brakleen worked great with the CRC does anyone think spraying both of them into the intake at same time would be a good idea?

[@irisbaez1972]

How can I do this job in my Elantra 2008? It's impossible and it will be work too damn hard.

[@1689solas]

You didn't tell people you have to rotate the engine so the valves are closed.

[@niquemarshall]

don’t the valve springs hold the valves in a closed position when the engine is off?

[@mohabzarzour7877]

The Forbidden Pepsi

[@Lovely_planet]

ahahahah this was good

[@keananconnor4221]

Bro you had to say that as I’m drinking wonderful cold pepsi

[@thediscusmaniac3526]

Chemical does the job as well

[@Dan-jl5ej]

How much are a pair of kitchen cleaning gloves where you live?

[@rarnette73]

Why the non chlorinated?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

The chlorinated version is very corrosive and not needed. As it is, people don't like the idea of chemical cleaning these. This is a bit less harsh and gets the job done.

[@leftinashes]

How many miles were on the engine at the time of this video?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

The engine has 87k miles

[@aacar4095]

Great video. Why not just do brake cleaner or did you try brake cleaner only? Are there concerns about the brake cleaner seeping down into the cylinder? It seems like it wouldn’t be a tight seal but I haven’t done it.

[@alejandroochoa3541]

You should watch the videos before you comment and ask questions that are answered in the video

[@arcad1an292]

Catch Can ?

[@robgeach8105]

just use the brake cleaner if you're going to do it that way. the intake cleaner is designed to be used at operating temps.

[@dellainspiron8929]

hi each cylinder must be closed before spray or doesnt matter?

[@mikymays6361]

Yes they must be closed before doing this

[@adamnugent2137]

This is the most important part and he didn’t even mention it. if the cylinder is not completely closed, the engine will hydrolock

[@ironmike742]

Use common sense

[@zay3162]

@@ironmike742 don’t be rude

[@pingpong9656]

Do you think brake clean alone would be even better or same?

[@alejandroochoa3541]

Watch the fucking video

[@Voltrondefenderoftheuniverse]

@@alejandroochoa3541 ➡️😂

[@kazshamael]

So you're able to close all of the valves at the same time? The other walnut blasting tutorials I've seen, they close one, block off the rest, and go from there. Also, did you use a a pick tool or brush to clean the tops of the valves/stems?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

Same as with the walnut blasting tutorials you have to bump the starter to get the valves to close. You can get more than one valve to close at a time. Once you are actually doing it you will be able to physically see what valves are closed and which are not. As far as a brush goes, you can use a toothbrush if anything. Very little to no scrubbing is needed. Another idea would be to use an acid brush. That might be good if you want to target a specific area.

[@cs652806]

Is there anything you can't do with brake cleaner? Nice video!

[@redbeardsgarageandvlogs4058]

if you guys ever do decide you want to walnut blast instead and you already have a air compressor you can go to harbor freight and buy the blaster and walnuts for like 50 bucks...jjst throwing that out there not trying to take away from what way to do it. loved the video it was very satisfying as i am in the middle of doing mine as im writing this.

[@tical3575]

Just bought an air compressor so I can do that very thing to my 335iS. Harbor freight walnut blasting kit next. ​@@redbeardsgarageandvlogs4058

[@mathewhoffer4541]

Why would you use walnut shells ? use soda blasting the adapter for the port is like $25 amazon it does just as good a job as walnut media but the soda dissolves in water / fuel as in no possible damage done. if you take the cylinder head to a machine shop they clean it in high temp pressure washer then dry it and final cleaning is in a blasting cabinet using high pressure and SODA to make it look like new. if walnuts where a better option they would use it . use the CRC to soften up the carbon first and then soda blast it. The whole point is to get the car running like new correct then why go in and half ass it ? do it right the first time not simply good enough.

[@arnoldfz7870]

I've heard that by using chemical to clean, it'll somehow damage and harden the rubber or somehow destroy the wires ? is it true tho ? im just a rookie comparing walnut blast vs chemical clean. Anyone mind to share more info ?

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

Hi, I've heard this myth also and since there are only two rubber components that could be affected by this, think about this: If you are referring to the valve seals, they are locate up above on the other side of the casting of the head, where your valve cover gives you access to. They are also made of compounds that withstand oil, gasoline, and extreme heat for 100k+ Miles if not more. In order for the solution to reach there, the chamber of the intake port would have to be filled so far up that the level of fluid would need to come to a level close to where your valve springs sit. The only way to achieve this would be to somehow seal the port and funnel it up past that level, otherwise it is highly unlikely. Here we are concentrating mainly on the valve. The bronze guide that is above where cant see on the roof of the intake port is 1.65" long higher than the fluid level again and then you have the seal sitting above that. If you are concerned about the wiring loom on the engine, there is only wiring above the ports which is protected by the crinkle tubing and we are not spraying anything around, below or above. We are focusing on the intake chamber itself and extracting the solution with shop paper towels, in other words I am certain your engine harness will be fine. Other than those wires you will notice on the video the block has no wiring on that side. If you notice, almost all of the wiring on an engine is ran above at the valve cover level to keep it away from heat and oil. The main issue with any rubber compound and the cause for it to harden is heat and prolonged exposure to oil. It cooks the coating on the wires and makes them brittle over time. I hope this helps.

[@Lee__M3]

@@longbackjoediysandmo8421 very well explained 👌🏽

[@boppernostopper8598]

@@longbackjoediysandmo8421 what about the rumor or myth, if not true, that walnut blasting can damage the valves

[@12345questions]

@@boppernostopper8598 100% not true, if it was every dealer and tech across the nation wouldn’t be doing this per OEM request. Walnut blasting works very well, it’s just that most don’t want to spend the money on the kit or the shop to do the work. This video shows and effective alternative for the everyday wrench but if you have the money walnut blasting is just as effective, less messy and easier in my opinion. On my on e39 m5 I use a similar method seen here to clean the head to prevent and common carbon build up that wrecks secondary air orifices. I have also used a home built, harbor freight walnut blasting solution for about 70$ before on my old 335i. My source? I’m an German/exotic tech and have been for 15 years. Good luck on your car journeys all! Keep workin!

[@mmaaddict78]

I wouldn't worry about the valve seals at all. Gravity is working in your favor. What I would be worried about though is the CRC making it past the oil rings on the piston. You definitely want to change your oil immediately after cleaning your vales no matter what method is used. I suspect some of the CRC will make it's way into the oil. That stuff will destroy gaskets, orings and seals if it's left to do so, not to mention dilute the oil and make it less viscus.

[@chetmyers7041]

10:05 See the results here.

[@zzman5306]

If you are going to do this probably Berryman's B12 would work better.

[@bignickenergy2042]

Just shop vac it out next time

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

That's a great suggestion! I wanted to keep the materials, tools, and cost of the job to a minimum, but definitely, a shop vac will save you a roll of towels.

[@pingpong9656]

@@longbackjoediysandmo8421 Create a siphon with compressed air - if you don't want a oily mess in your shop vac,

[@Teleport73]

Or a large syringe with a length of tubing.

[@JoseSandoval-ic5xe]

Hi did you notice your car ran better after the cleaning??

[@longbackjoediysandmo8421]

Yes, the car would hesitate for the first couple seconds after starting then it would even out. I thought my injectors were dying on me. Now it just fires up smooth as it should.

[@chrismatteson2337]

Valves still black. Also....please do not use anything medal to pick away carbon on aluminum! Use dental rubber picks or plactic. A $5.99 air gun while rag is in hole is also beneficial.

[@bradgreen987]

Sea Foam only thing to use. Works wonders. Then get a freaking air/oil separator ASAP!!!!!!

[@ironmike742]

Sea Foam is a gimmick

[@W333dm4n]

Bro got that bully voice

[@realtruth97]

Yeah but when all the gunk goes to the piston? Then what? How you gonna clean that up? Now you need a rebuild.

[@adairjanney7109]

Potheads already figured this out, its called Alcohol and Salt

[@fubartotale3389]

What about CO2 blast? The media just evaporates, no dust.

[@mmaaddict78]

There needs to be an abrasive...

[@zzman5306]

This is misleading. Those sprays are meant as a quick and easy solution you just spray into the motor. Most people don't want to tear the engine down.

[@nordicpride9708]

What a lot of folks don’t realize is PEA (polyether-amine) the active ingredient in CRC valve & turbo cleaner is in fact much more effective with heat. Read the instructions and you will see my point in short order. Of course this is the manual method, but if you use CRC when recommended, you likely will never need to tear into the engine. Your valves don’t need to be spotless gentlemen. You aren’t qualifying at Daytona lol. BTW what a bonehead design… atleast Toyota combines port/direct. The Japanese in fact do it better!

[@alanshaddix2109]

Not me! I'd rather blast the crud loose and vacuum it out. If I ever can afford a GDI engine it will most likely be a Toyota with port and DI so this BS can be avoided.

[@DANNY40379]

new b58 has port injection as well now