Disston D8 Restoration: Rust removal, etch preservation, re-shaping teeth | Veritas saw file holder.

[@jonwatson9765]

No de-rusting chemicals? No wire wheels? No electroplating? No mirror finishing? None of the OCD features that create "works of art" out of what should be a purely functional tool, none of the little irritants like using tweezers to lift out screws, no rubber gloves and no sand blasting. What a relief to see a tool restored only enough to once again be a functional working tool with all its history still evident. Thank you.

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Glad you appreciate what I did! I'm still using this saw as my main rip saw.

[@FlannelHoodie]

I appreciate so many things about this video - not the least of which is the captions. The whole voiceover / direct to camera schtick .. in addition to being really helpful, man was this a breath of fresh air!

[@Matthew-ju3nk]

I heartily agree with Jon Watson - function over form when it comes to real working tools! Thank you for the demonstration.

[@crossgrainwoodproductsltd9230]

One thing about blade sharpening that others may not know, the teeth on the saw are not always the same height and the sharp"side" of the tooth is sometimes filed on an angle. I noticed a couple of broken teeth which require resharpening until it is the same shape as the others. I might suggest using a light oil like regular WD-40 instead of the turpentine. Turpentine dries fairly quickly, where as WD-40 will stay on the blade until wiped off. It's a like oil mix, which will lubricate the blade, making it much easier to penitrate the rust and the sandpaper will glide easier as well. Very nice job!

[@TonyThompson-l6n]

I appreciate the video and all of the comments that like this level of restoration! I’ve done some carpentry but am just trying to get into finer woodworking so picked up 2 Disston dovetails in need of restoration. I’ll be using some of your techniques. Is boiled linseed oil good for the handles? I don’t have any hemp oil yet.

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

BLO probably the best choice, hope it went well!

[@arkansasboy45]

I really like the low Roman workbench.

[@toolscarriagesmodellbauand7246]

well done restoration. Best wishes from Germany

[@nemorri]

My hat is off to you , but you dont need the fancy angle gizmo though. Youre far younger than I, and I learnt a lot from you this day. Thanks a lot .

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

I'm sure I could learn to do it by eye, but the gizmo is a big help and I got some very nice results using it. I have one so I'll use it.

[@6atlantis]

@@jones_trees_and_treen how exactly does that jig work? I restore vintage tools and I’m moving onto my saw collection. It didn’t look like it was keeping the file at any certain angle, it looked like you were doing that with your own hands. Also, was that a sawtooth setter you used around 9:45? Thanks

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

The jig just provides a visual guide. You adjust it so that by keeping the guide parallel to the sawplate and level with the ground, you'll hit your desired angles (rake and fleam). Yes I set the seeth with an eclipse sawset.

[@diyresttube]

nice restoration on that handsaw...without using some expensive powertools you still manage to restore that.

[@OORAH659]

good ⚒ ⚒ work.....OORAH!!

[@RESTORATIONOFSCRAPMETAL]

great job well done.👍

[@stephenemerson9890]

Well done

[@jd3248]

Hi, nice job, what is it you pour on the blade when cleaning?

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Mineral Turpentine, it's a solvent.

[@andrewanderson3472]

A good way to clean of the last of the rust Is with a vinegar salt solution and soak in a tub for a day , it's cheap works well and has no nasty chemicals

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

I'm not a fan of vinegar soaks. It attacks the metal as well as the rust, and discolours it as well. I'm not saying it doesn't work, it's just not my taste to get all the way to bare metal - I just focus on the working parts of the tool.

[@tadleach]

A vinegar soak would likely have destroyed the etch.

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Correct! Scraping with a sharp blade will dislodge surface rust but won't affect any of the good metal. Using stones instead of sandpaper prevents from scratching in too much on any one spot and keeps the sawplate flat. When you're using stones you can keep an eye on your progress as you go and ensure you don't damage it.

[@brodericoh]

I meant to say this earlier. But a big yes from me for restoration videos!

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Thanks Brod, I have a few things waiting for me to get around to them - a drawknife will probably be next.

[@mdgcwood]

Hey man great restoration! Did you fix the split in the handle or was it unnecessary? I hope Melbourne lockdown wasn’t too bad for you!

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Thanks mate. I glued up some of the structural cracks and left the aesthetic ones alone. The saw has seen regular use ever since this video and no issues.

[@mdgcwood]

@@jones_trees_and_treen sweet mate that’s awesome

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

I found 5 sexy ass saws that were all sharpened perfectly and them some noob painted them black. All 5 for 15 and the paint stripe off, turned on the hose and sanded to bring out that old look.

[@justinsane332]

why did you take an oilstone to the teeth? was that to remove some set at the end?

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

Stoning the saw is a way to correct if it wants to pull one way or the other during the cut. You stone the the side that it pulls towards. So yes, to remove a little set.

[@justinsane332]

@@jones_trees_and_treen thanks for the reply! im in the middle of 4 or so saw restorations, thats a good tip to have! what grit are you running over the teeth? course, fine? or perhaps you know the grit of the stone, perhaps a 1000 or so? and to your knowledge, does it really matter how course it is?

[@jones_trees_and_treen]

The grit of the stone isn't super important. A finer stone may take more repetitions to have the effect you want. This is a medium oilstone, I'd guess around 800-1000 but hard to put a number on a natural stone.