DIY 3D Printed Flight Yoke for 2020 Microsoft Flight Simulator

[@michaelrechtin]

Thanks for watching! For all the files, code, and a parts list for this project, check the description. Also, sorry about the audio issue.

[@jayhamm34]

Thanks, I asked before checking. Great video!

[@carroconzapato]

Good video

[@Deltawolf2022]

What size 3d printer bed do you need to do this?

[@jayhamm34]

@@Deltawolf2022 I used an ender 3 v2 but had to split the yoke in half and super glue it back together. I tilted it originally and it fit on the print bed, but one of the supports came loose half way through the 36 hr print. Didn’t want to risk it so I broke it up.

[@Deltawolf2022]

@@jayhamm34 I was just looking at the Ender 3 V2. I have been looking into 3d printing for some time, haven't bought yet, I hear it can be hard to set up but has a great community to help out.

[@Tomer-The-Pilot]

Finally someone make a cheap flight Yoke system for 3D printing. A few notes from a private pilot: 1. On a real aircraft the two buttons on the Yoke are for A/P disengage and PTT. 2. The quadrant levers should be (from left to right)- Throttle (Black), propeller pitch control (Blue) and mixer (Red). 3. The brakes on a real aircraft are integrated in the rudder pedals (Press on each top to engage). Thank you for your hard work for the community!

[@Dixon_1974]

Wonderful suggestions!

[@yigitgungor]

Came here to tell the exact same thing :) But one addition to your comment, I have seen people use the blue lever on the right most of the quadrans as the flap controller for fixed-prop planes in the simulator. Highest setting being flaps 0, lowest being flaps 30.

[@tigerchills2079]

I know Push To Talk, but what is A/P? edit: maybe auto-pilot? deactivating auto pilot via yoke, I guess.

[@zaviationn]

@@tigerchills2079 yup, you are correct!

[@indianmarshmello.]

also, yoke moves 90 degrees bank either direction for full aileron deflection

[@simpilothr6653]

Mhmm yes, "Throttle, Flaps and Slats" Slats are usually used in bigger aircraft and automatically extend relative to the flap's position. What I suggest you to put those throttle levers for (if you still haven't but I'm sure you've done that already), from left to right, is: Throttle, usually IRL is painted in black Propeller Pitch/Angle...one of those for sure, painted in blue Mixture, painted in red. Another thing to note, in planes like the Cessna (where the yoke is most likely originated from). Since the 3 main things in aviation ("Aviate, Navigate, Communicate") are very crucial for flying in today's airspace, you would usually have those buttons for either the AP disengage or PPT (Push To Talk). But, then again, it's your preference. For all the aviators out there, 6:51 Vref hehe get it? xDD

[@cptmm4061]

I was Looking for a vref comment lol

[@athr_blu]

I am a aerospace engineer and I got both references :p

[@Cinemaaereo]

Please don't forget to leveling the music with your voice. The music is exploding brains with headphone.

[@shinseiryu]

I watch to watch but the random super loud music is killing me.

[@wvbigdavesieko]

Yeah the music was waaaayyy tooo loud. Please don't do that again. Also, I hope you got a better mic.

[@electronicscaos]

@@wvbigdavesieko he's probably going to 3D print a better mic 😂

[@COW879]

It hurt

[@TheMaskedDog]

Y’all need better headphones, I don’t have this issue .

[@sammyairlines9307]

Michael, excellent video. I have printed out the throttle quadrant and noticed 2 things you might already know. 1 there is no exit from the base for the wiring. No biggy, drill a hole and use a grommet. 2 the button cover needs cut to go over the last pot. Again no biggy just letting you know there are builds going on. Thanks for the excellent work. I was just starting to look around for a yoke when this popped up.

[@burnttoast111]

Old-school Russian-style pedals, which is cool. Rudder pedals on US planes typically have toe brakes, where you can rotate your foot forward to engage the brake on the left or right gear (or both).

[@dogsbd]

Great pedal design, looks like it would be very simple to add toe brakes as well.

[@mmgbtv]

Goddamn dude, you just about blew out my speakers in my living room

[@mikedoug7]

Yes, I have to agree... The third time you blasted the music I just about closed the browser tab. Bad form to have your voice so low and then blast your music at your viewers.

[@sausage5849]

That's impressive engineering right there! Especially the pedals! Subbed up straight away.

[@MrKelaher]

great pedal design - congrats !

[@Teklectic]

Very nice! I like your design for the rudder pedals much better than the one I came up with for mine, it's a much more elegant solution; mine used drawer slides to constrain the pedals and a belt reduction from the centre pivot to the potentiometer, direct meshing gears make more sense, especially with plastic gears where you can get the gear lash to basically nothing.

[@scottsackrider475]

Grabbed the files.... Thanks! More to follow. Even in 2024, this seems to be the best video on this.

[@HorthornNZ]

You have given me some ideas how to modify my thrustmaster pedals to stop them being sticky

[@AGeekNamedRoss]

Nice build. Very nice. I just wish the pedals had toe brakes.

[@oculicious]

Please dont cut your video with music that is 3 times louder than your voice, it's super annoying having to constantly change volume, also really great and informative video

[@48days]

You should change out your rudder pedals with pedals that can tilt forward. This is how you brake on a real aircraft. Plus, having an independent axis for the brakes on each side makes maneuvering on the ground much more realistic.

[@keatoncampbell820]

My only 'gripe' would be to use long cheap tensions springs instead of rubber bands. Just from a longevity POV, rubber can dry rot and fall apart, especially under load. It's not a real plane so of course you could always add more bands if they break, I just like tension springs! The yoke is sick, btw. Using the linear slides might have been convenient, but its a great idea. I have a bunch of extra ball bearing drawer sliders, so I'll prolly use those, however my old printer now looks so strange all not scrapped... (oh yeah the levers which actuate on the pots, any particular reason you didn't give them a bearing/axle to ride on, which the pot could be nested in? seeing a pot being a little bit of structural member makes me sad for the pot lol)

[@crckdns]

I never've thought about DIY controller/Joystick/HOTAS! thanks for that simple idea! I'm gonna probably build a HOTAS controller myself but using hall sensors instead of potentiometers :)

[@Badd.G]

step 1 : get a 3D printer, mission failed we'll get them next time

[@lpburke86]

A good one can be had brand new for under $200. Thats not a good enough excuse.

[@nicholaslau3194]

@@lpburke86 Don't judge by how much people can afford. $200 may not be an amount which everyone can afford.

[@lpburke86]

​@@nicholaslau3194 Computer or Console $300+ Flight Simulator $100 Other games $50 to $100 each 3d Printer that does so much more than play one game $200 Oh no... that's too much. I can't afford that. It's an excuse. and a bullshit one at that.

[@Leao7080]

​@@lpburke86 getting a 3d printer just for this project doesnt seem reasonable either unless you have a ton of projects that you have in mind and is beneficial to you than yeah get one.

[@lpburke86]

@@Leao7080 So a $200 printer, that you could sell when youre done) to make $700 worth of controllers doesnt make sense? Do you even understand math?

[@lxlrvfx1764]

Enjoyed this more than a lot of people’s content with 1000 times your subs :)

[@alessandro4543]

Hi, could you post the electric circuit schema? Because in the google drive folder there isn't... Or someone that have already built it could provide it? I've print everything but i've some troubles with the connections. Thankyou so much and obviously amazing video!

[@maff1917]

Just to let you know, your Video made it to my KZbin front page. Which means somethings. Have a very happy and healthy christmas :)

[@sgruffyogruffy7609]

Michael Rechtin, Thank you for the designs and 3D print files. I just finished 3D printing all of the parts and I am ready to assemble. However, I did not find a spec on the size and type of screws you used in the design. Do you have a size and type of screws for each component or total for both the yoke and pedals?

[@leonschutz6094]

Just awesome! Started printing right now

[@theenchiladakid1866]

The old XBox one pad makes a good start for a flight setup

[@aviation2simulator581]

Impressive and clean construction, Michael!

[@MrDoItAll.]

How to make, like the wiring or something but is there a instruction sheet?

[@RealMenWorshipZeus]

A lot of people have asked and I didn't see any replies, but I'm still hopeful. I put together all the parts, but am stuck on the circuit diagram. Any chance you can describe the wiring to the microcontroller? Even a few pictures added to the drive folder would be a HUGE help. Trying to build this for my daughter and am really bummed to have put in this much time and material just to get stuck and give up. Just can't seem to figure it out.:(

[@VRFlightSimGuy]

Have to say, this is extremely impressive work. Nice job!

[@jaircr4ft237]

Yokes rotate 90 degrees, you will have more control that way

[@HAWXLEADER]

It's actually easier to implement it as 90 deg, simply connect it directly to the potentiometer

[@tunigkhan4942]

Amazing video man. Cheapest one I could find yet. It looks pretty cool but how am I gonna find the right sized bearings, screws etc?

[@suninmoon4601]

Impressive work, dude! Really inspirational 💪🏽

[@musik12]

Oh, nice project, thanks for sharing. One question: are the keys connected to the digital pins (PWM)? I know this might be a silly question, but I'd better confirm it first, lol

[@porouscrump]

Hey man. Printed your throttle quadrant and rudder pedals. GREAT work! Thank you so much, you've got my sub.

[@acestu]

Hi Michael, I bought the bearings and printed the pinion to test the tolerances, however my ender3 v2 prints the pinion bearing hole about 1mm too small so the bearing does not fit, I just wondered if the step files are available anywhere ? , Great Project Thank You !

[@BobbansRobobtics]

Instead of using an esp32 for the added DAC resolution you can use an external DAC like the ADS 1115. This has a resoulution of 16bits and as an added bonus you can use more analog signals due to the multiplexing capabilities of the DAC. I get that you wanted to keep cost low and didnt want to wait for parts, but for future project you could consider this. Great video though, love the content and keep up the good work.

[@AF29007]

Alternatively use digital pots and read data via a common SPI/I2C bus, have all the sensors connected on a single wire!

[@jefmore562]

hi michael thanks for sharing your knowledge. I would appreciate if you could show the electrical diagrams of the throttle quadrant and the yoke.

[@jonnionthespot8419]

Could you share a wiring diagram for the Arduino and a complete list of the hardware you used? Thanks.

[@a.nelprober4971]

You're a hero, especially with the current economic situation

[@LowieDM]

You could have added potentiometers in the pedals to simulate actual breaks but this is a super cool project though

[@larsthestorf5630]

On an ESP32 you could use bluetooth to input wirelessly to the computer

[@erock.steady]

nicely done. i'm surprised you didn't run the toe-down brake. and bro - windowed? lol really? you must have your reasons for not going fullscreen but i was surprised lol.

[@marcdraco2189]

I'm lying here grinning like an idiot. Those look nearly as good as the Honeycomb and will work just as well.

[@videotrexx]

You shouldn't be flying, even in a simulation, if your vision is that bad.

[@henriquem3111]

Lovely design! I'm beginning to work on my project. Yokes, pedals, controllers and joysticks already are extremely expensive in my country, and due to high demand and high USD exchange rate, it's almost impossible ( and not worth) to buy the entry level yoke ( the saitek one) I have two questions. Why did you choose to use potentiometers instead of hall effect sensors? Is it possible to make the yoke turn 75°/90° each direction instead of 45 (like a real airplane) using potentiometers?

[@michaelrechtin]

I used potentiometers because I had them laying around. And yes, it is totally possible to maker it rotate 75 or 90 deg.

[@Pokerman536]

Oi Henrique! Pelo seu nome imagino q vc seja brasileiro, igual eu kkkkk. Tbm estou trabalhando em um projeto parecido. Tenho um T16000m, mas só o joystick. N tenho o Throttle Quadrant (n sei o nome em português), aí decidi tentar construir um. Estou desenvolvendo tem 1 semana mais ou menos, mas tá relativamente avançado já. Se quiser te mando umas fotos do projeto.

[@gabriel.marcal]

@@Pokerman536 eu sou brasileiro haha me chama no whats pra gente trocar umas ideias, 11998176540

[@henriquem3111]

@@Pokerman536 opa! Bacana! Tem discord? Acho legal ver que tem bastante gente do nosso país com a mesma intenção de criar seus próprios projetos

[@LuizLuiz1006]

@@henriquem3111 Também me interesso nese discord kkk por acaso já entraram em contato um com outro?

[@ottocubano6745]

incredible video!!!! can I ask you what bearing do you use to connect the pedal's bar to the gear mount? Thanks

[@Waylander131]

great easy-to-build design, well done! One note though: some of the parts will not fit a standard 220x220mm print bed so you need something bigger or you'll have to slice in parts and re-assemble after that. I mean the yoke wheel as well as the pedals bar.

[@mattice9083]

Found that out as I'm printing now but a small price to pay. This is awesome.

[@icefreezer7]

What screws do you use with those mounting hubs?

[@ayu12641]

Have a look at the STM32 blue pill. It has a 12bit ADC and USB interface. It is also Arduino compatible, cheap and plenty powerful.

[@pieterpretorius1014]

teensy 2 ++ has a crap load of pins so could also work

[@chrisbowpiloto]

I liked this after the intro, very well done! I am working on a joystick and rudder pedals now, but I will probably start on your yoke soon after I am done with these

[@flybobbie1449]

You know i really need to make a good force feed back yoke. Would be simple to have a mechanical trim to remove pitch load, just needs a moving neutral position. Also use Leo Bodnar module has all the analogue inputs you need.

[@michaelmundie1590]

This is incredible... however... I’m entirely new to all of this and I have a couple simple questions. 1. Will this work for an Xbox and Xbox Games? 2. Did this require any soldering? 3. How difficult is this for someone who can’t program and can’t code?

[@marcdraco2189]

XBox games require a special interface which is a real deal breaker. Honeycomb Int. who make those nice looking but ultimately "toy like" parts are developing their own firmware with Microsoft's help. It's doable, yes, but worth it? Better to adapt an old XBox controller and adapt that but again that would require soldering and that is difficult unless you have skills and the right (quality) tools.

[@Sou1Daddy]

Great vid and design, I want to print this but I have a couple of questions, what size pots did you use? 5k 10k 100k or does it not matter? Also what size screws did you use?

[@FurkanSoy-tx8qp]

He Used 10k pots

[@Sou1Daddy]

​@@FurkanSoy-tx8qp thank you

[@Osky-Bosky]

omg i needed this

[@thomasmaier7053]

There is also a company doing magnetic force feedback... nobody has yet managed to reproduce it but that would be amazing for this yoke!

[@mateogargicevich6668]

may i ask wich potentiometer did you use? 10k 20k, other ? and the conection with flight simulator is automatic or it need onfiguraction? Thank you!

[@darrenlyon8380]

How much filament did you use? Oh and that was an aileron roll at the beginning not a barrel roll.

[@CodyKennell]

Basically trying to figure out the part with the electrical setup with the arduino board and would love links to stuff

[@leo-jt6to]

ESP32 is able to do this .without usb esp32 can use Bluetooth way to send info to pc, and u can get a wireless York or throttle.

[@skidz8426]

maybe a suggestion is to make a Amazon list with all the parts in it. IDK if you ever had a list of things went over it, ok got it all, just make sure, yep got it. get home and forgot something. especially if you have alot of this stuff I personally would rather buy some extra toggle switcher that I forgot to remove from the cart rather then forget 8mm linear bearing. because I passed it up. anyway thanks for the build.

[@Mustard5284]

this type of stuff makes me really want a 3d printer

[@fabricebougardier1250]

great achievement, missing a stl file in the Flight Yoke folder, the part for the yoke potentiometer.

[@sammyairlines9307]

You can find them in the Google Drive files. He has each module broken out so it's easy to find it. It's called Yoke_Pot_Holder.

[@RealMenWorshipZeus]

This video is amazing (liked and subscribed for sure!). I've printed all my parts and bought stuff on Amazon and am knee deep in assembly and my low skill on the electronics end is really bringing everything to a grinding halt. Any chance you have a wiring diagram to help pathetic noobs like me finish this thing? Can't wait to fly!

[@johnhersom6002]

Did you ever find a wiring diagram? I'm in the exact same boat as you right now

[@bevobus]

Awesome stuff. Thank you very much. I'm in the planning stages of building a Condor Gliding simulator. This really help answer some of the issues I've been trying to solve in my head.

[@MyRCChannel-CJScott]

OUTSTANDING! I hope you're going to school to study engineering. Your designs are elegantly simple with imaginative solutions in the mechanisms. Thank you for making the 3d files available. If I build one, I will do a video or two and I'll be sure to credit you as well as link to your video and channel. Currently I run a channel focused on RC cars and planes. I'll be launching a sim channel soon (early 2021) with the focus on car racing to start. I used to fly sims too, so I may have to build a set of controls based on your designs and start covering flight sims as well. An interesting mod would be to add a "dashboard" to the yoke using a 7" Fire tablet ($55)... I'll bet someone makes the software for such a thing. There are several offerings for the race car sims. A lot of controls could be manipulated via the touchscreen. It would be easy to print a frame for the tablet. Leave the top open like a slot so the tablet can be easily removed and replaced making configuration and maintenance easier... food for thought. Happy Holidays, CJ

[@nathanielluke2084]

With what software did you make that potentiometer animation with (6:53)? Looks so damn good

[@michaelrechtin]

Thanks! It was Fusion 360

[@joebloggs430]

Can I ask how long it took to print the individual components and what kind of filament material, fill level and pattern you used for them ? Thanks again.

[@andrewjamez]

Thanks so much for your contribution, The ino files say "require Arduino Library" does this mean that your code has to be added to other code or can we just flash you ino files as is? Thanks

[@pyroguyman096]

You kind of skipped over yhe most important part of the build, which is how you wired up the arduino and coded it. A wiring dirsgram would be super helpful here please

[@radpaul2574]

I might do this to go with my Garmin 3d printed G1000 NXI. Looks doable!

[@MrSomethingdark]

Thx for the sketches Sherminator

[@SaltyBob355]

I wonder if there are enough analog axis and buttons on a standard xbox controller to substitute as the microcontroller for console use?

[@ikkeennigij121]

first of all, wonderfull. I've gotten myself a 3D printer with this in mind and now I have it I think it's time I bite the bullet, your video gave me the motivation to do it challenge for you (if at all feasible ): make the flight conrols wireless (bluetooth)

[@michaelrechtin]

That's Awesome! Funny enough, one of the reasons I wanted to use an ESP32 initially is that it has Bluetooth built in. However, I think making a Bluetooth joystick would require some device driver type programming which I have no experience in. Definitely something to look into though!

[@ikkeennigij121]

@@michaelrechtin (should you ever want to start) was just looking around and this guy seems to have figured it out, his code is in the comments watch?v=CmIby3AIlVc

[@Pokerman536]

While feasible, ESP32s and ESP8266 consume a lot of power. I believe the batteries would drain pretty fast

[@ikkeennigij121]

@@Pokerman536 Do you by any chance have a ballpark figure off consumption? (I understand it depends on the loads but you seem to have an idea..)

[@CodyKennell]

How did you wire the pentiometers to the micro board by plugging it in, and could you please send a link for where to get them

[@albertofanjulalonso6096]

Amazing! Wonder why control box is not uploaded to thingiverse, and not sure It all the arduino code is available. Just to show how cool this project is

[@taftazani6400]

I'm trying to calculate the cost of buillding the plastic body if i use 3d printing service since i dont have a 3d printer. They usually charge per gram of material use. Could you help by informing the plastic body overall weight?

[@joe_snuffy]

Nice work. I was just about to sit down and start designing my own rudder pedals. Looking at your design definitely helped me simplify some of the things I was trying to accomplish. Thanks for the inspiration. Also, your yoke game me a few ideas as well.

[@gaborparoczay579]

This is simply amazing! Would you also share the wiring diagram with us? Wiring pushbuttons, potentiometers, arduino micro, etc.? You have done an amazing engineering job !!

[@marcdraco2189]

There are lots of good designs showing how to put the rest of these together but this is the best design I've seen. Particularly for low-cost pedals. For Ardunio you'll need a 328U (so NOT a Uno, Nano, etc.). Most designs (at least ones that work) use Hall sensors as they are solid state and don't suffer from any problems caused by mechanical operation such as stress from an off-center axis. Trust me from experience, if you can use a Hall sensor, do that!

[@ronaldmerema4216]

Thanks for this great idea. I am going to make this yoke. I have already ordered the parts, and start printing the parts. The only thing i am not able to print is the yoke himself, it is to big for my printer. I think i am going to make it from wood. Can you tell me, or make a schematic how the electronic parts are connected to the arduino?, i dont see a connection diagram, and can you tell what sort of button the push buttos are? self resetting or momentary? Edit, I am missing a 3d part on thingiverse i think. I can not find the part that is holding the pinion and the potmeter, and that is mounted on the upper Linear bearing holder. Is it possible to add the component?

[@ronaldmerema4216]

I have found the missing part in the overall step file. but the part is not on thingiverse and included as an seperate part.

[@acestu]

Hi Michael, I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere, I would like to make a board with jst connectors as you have, do you have a link for that ? Thanks

[@Ben7seven7]

Nice build tho you should have done 90 degree turn radius and not 45.

[@marcelotohme2488]

Great project!!! But, please, I have 2 douts: at 14:00 min you are talking about a 6mm aluminium hub attached to the shaft. Where can I find it? The second one is about the wiring diagram for connecting the pots and switches to the Arduino. Do you have it? Thank you.

[@GreekSIMRACING]

I also want the diagram but noneone said anything.

[@jgrold]

Excellent Yoke and rudder pedals!! And thanks you to share with us!!

[@airspeed-alive]

AWESOME! Congratulations my friend!

[@albundi2985]

Great build! Where can I find the joystick library for the Arduino Micro?

[@philmahoney]

Santa is attempting this build and the one part that seems to be missing or perhaps I am overlooking is the bracket that attaches the potentiometer to the back of the yoke. Didn't see it in the CAD file any chance it could be added? This is a really an outstanding design.

[@michaelrechtin]

Thanks for pointing this out! Everything should be updated now.

[@egecarsi]

Cool project. However my potentiometers values fluctuate by 2 3 value even when i dont touch them. How i prevent from this. Thanks.

[@pesto12601]

Lol... yeah.. I think I'll just spend the $200 or so on a Honeycomb yoke.... but - thanks for sharing and very ingenious.

[@Munky332]

100% worth it. Just got mine last month. Literally shits all over the Saitek and CH stuff, by a long shot. Just got the bravo throttle just before xmas (ordered both months ago) also great quality, but I do wish it had a few more features. IE the reverse thrust is toggle only (button), ie its either on or off. there's no modulation. The AP panel could easily have been expanded more, and I'd rather have them done that than the included annunciator panel; the AP panel basically only has 1 actual knob, and you have a 5 way rotary selector that changes what the knob does (ALT, VS, HDG, CRS, IAS). This isn't a terrible idea, but in VR it's kind of a bit of a PITA because you never know what mode you are in unless you "duck under" and look or you memorize the order (which I haven't quite yet) and put the selector into the known position. I wish they had included. I'm also not a huge fan of the mounting plate system, I mean, it works and can be good, but in my particular setup, with a drawer under my desk for my keyboard & mouse, it means I can't mount easily. Luckily my keyboard tray is also clamp type so I can remove it, but it's a bit annoying. The throttle I also feel is a bit unnecessarily large on the back side. I haven't opened it up nor seen anyone who has, but I doubt they really needed to make it as large as they did, but it does fit the aesthetic. EDIT; these are also minor gripes, or things I think they could do better.

[@pesto12601]

@@Munky332 Thx for the review... yeah - Honeycomb hit it out the park with these... nice to see some quality stuff come out that doesn't cost as much as real plane!

[@matthewhenderson2934]

great vid what filament did you use?

[@capsilver85]

I was testing the regular potentiometers and I see it does not have enough precision, I got a 10 turns potentiometer and It is way better, now I have to build the rudder pedals and I'm trying to figure out how to convert the movement to a 10 turn, maybe I can use half the turns, but in that case I think I need a different gear ration.

[@omararvizu4913]

Thanks for sharing this incredible design, I almost get all the 3d prints done, but now Im messing with the connections, do you have an schematic for electronic components? and also, for the 6 potentiometers, did you use an specific value for them? I mean like 10K or something..

[@TheMightyRecom]

I'm having the same issue.

[@omararvizu4913]

@@TheMightyRecom no answer yet ={

[@omararvizu4913]

@João Carlos open de 3d model file in fusion, locate the missing stl file, right clic export as stl file

[@Fergobirck]

The potentiometers value in this case don't really matter, as long as they are linear and not logarithmic. 1K, 10K, 100K, they will all work.

[@zombiethumperin]

Hi, Can you include a wiring diagram of the pedals? If you could tell me what portion of the code applies only to the rudder. I am only doing the rudder pedal portion as I have a yoke. For some reason I can't get the code to work even removing the excess code. Thanks a bunch. I have ACC, A2 and Ground hooked up on my micro and adjusted the code accordingly.

[@francisboismenu2345]

Hi Michael! Great stuff! I'm assembling the throttle module and wonder how you got the levers to stay in position when you move them midway? With the weight of the knobs, mines are falling down as the pots seems to weak to hold them in place. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[@sterlingtardie]

I hope you're still active and see this. Can this project be completed with the Leo Bodnar BU0836A 12-bit joystick interface instead of the Arduino? I modified my old Saitek (Logitech) yoke, but it has become extremely imprecise, so I was thinking about building your project with that board if it can work for that.

[@testi2025]

Nice work! You might want to check the standard colours for your throttle quadrant.

[@dalek-dan-1]

great project and very good video, thanks for sharing. just one thing though all my ESP32 boards have a USB interface so I was surprised when you said they didn't.

[@TheTeknikFrik]

The USB on ESP32 boards are just usb-to-serial bridges, not an actual USB controller capable of becoming e.g. an USB HID (joystick, mouse, etc)

[@foodtrucksaopaulonogueir3881]

Beautiful ! Could you kindly share the link to the project please? I really would like to make this one here at home , it'll be a very good therapy in these lockdown times.

[@arcadealchemist]

it would be nice to get some Home Brew flight sticks eventually. if i knew how to make what i wanted it would be cool

[@br1br1]

Hola! muchas gracias por compartir tu diseño. yo lo voy a hacer de hecho. qué valor de potenciometro haz usado para el pedal y para el yoke? asi preparo la lista para comprar. gracias! Hello! Thank you very much for sharing your design. I'm actually going to do it. What potentiometer value have you used for the pedal and for the yoke? So I prepare the list to buy. thanks!

[@Power5]

Those pedals are sweet. I understand cheapness and using what is around, but comeon, rubber bands instead of a cheap $0.25 spring? LOL Turned out amazing though.

[@seanoboyle4095]

Looks great! Great attention to detail.