DIY air ioniser with wide voltage range

You do NOT need a 3D printer to make this project. You can use a standard project case.
If you do choose to make a 3D printed case, then the three scripts are included below in this description. They can be copied and pasted individually into OpenSCAD to create customised STL files to suit your exact needs. The base and top have some variables that can be adjusted if desired.
OpenSCAD is an amazing piece of free software that lets you describe 3D models with text. It's often described as "The programmers CAD". The main advantage here is that it allows the use of variables and logic, so a small script can achieve great things.
I printed my unit in two shades of marble PLA. I'm not sure if black pigments have carbon as a colouring agent. If they do it might be worth avoiding them, as electrostatic charge does weird things on even high resistance surfaces.
This project does involve working with mains voltage circuitry, and should only be attempted by those experienced in that area. You build this unit entirely at your own risk.
You can find the ioniser modules on sites like AliExpress. The common name is PK-A22F.
There is a dedicated video about that module showing the internal circuitry.
It takes an AC supply of 100-240V and puts out an extremely high voltage at low current to a carbon fibre tuft. When a high negative voltage is applied to very sharp points (the tuft) it imparts an electrostatic charge into the air.
I do not recommend using low voltage modules with plug-in DC power supplies, as ionisers create a very high voltage difference with respect to ground, and it can cause arcing between the high and low voltage sides of a power supply. The 12V modules should be fine in off-grid homes with a general 12V system referenced to the chassis.
To test your ioniser, you should feel a slight draught from the carbon fibre tuft. It can also be heard if pointed directly at your ear. If the ioniser is placed on a white sheet of paper and left for a week or so, there should be a visible outline of it on the paper if it collects fine dust.
Here are the openscad scripts. Be careful to keep the "=" and ";" on either side of variables when changing them. The comments next to the variables have suggested values in brackets.
The text below here is the script for the base. You can adjust the size of the module box within reason.
//Cone shaped ioniser base
boxx=28; //widest side of ion module (28)
boxy=15; //shortest side of ion module (15)
base=1.6; //thickness of base plate (1.6)
$fn=100;
difference(){
union(){
//base
cylinder(h=base,d=60);
//lip
cylinder(h=2+base,d=56.4);
}
//central recess
translate([0,0,base])
cylinder(h=3,d=53.2);
//cable entrance
translate([-2.5,-30,base])
cube([5,6,7]);
//cone pillar recesses
translate([-25.5,0,base])
cylinder(h=3,d=8);
translate([25.5,0,base])
cylinder(h=3,d=8);
//cone screw holes
translate([-25.5,0,-1])
cylinder(h=base+2,d=3);
translate([25.5,0,-1])
cylinder(h=base+2,d=3);
}
difference(){
//ion module block
translate([-(boxx+2.4)/2,-2,base])
cube([boxx+2.4,boxy+2.4,6]);
//ion module recess
translate([-boxx/2,-.8,base])
cube([boxx,boxy,7]);
}
difference(){
//cable grip
translate([0,-12,base])
cylinder(h=6,d=22);
translate([0,-12,base])
cylinder(h=7,d=18);
//cable entrance
translate([-5,-23,base])
cube([10,6,7]);
}
difference(){
//Cable grip central pillar
translate([0,-12,base])
cylinder(h=6,d=8);
//cable grip screw hole
translate([0,-12,base])
cylinder(h=7,d=2.5);
}
The text below here is the script for the main conical case. It has a few variables for the height of the cylindrical section and cone, plus a hole size option for the emitter.
//Cone shaped ioniser top
base=15; //base vertical section height (15)
cone=100; //base cone height (100)
hole=2.5; //diameter of emitter hole (2.5)
$fn=100;
difference(){
union(){
//base
cylinder(h=base,d=60);
//cone
translate([0,0,base])
cylinder(h=cone,d1=60,d2=hole+3.2);
//top emitter mount
translate([0,0,base+cone])
cylinder(h=4,d=hole+3.2);
}
//base recess
translate([0,0,-1])
cylinder(h=base+1,d=56.8);
//cone recess
translate([0,0,base])
cylinder(h=cone,d1=56.8,d2=hole);
//top emitter hole
translate([0,0,base+cone-1])
cylinder(h=6,d=hole);
//cable entrance
translate([-2.5,-30,0])
cube([5,6,2.5]);
//cable entry arch
translate([0,-26,3])
rotate([90,0,0])
cylinder(h=6,d=5);
//x-ray cube
//translate([-50,-50,-1])
//cube([100,50,150]);
}
difference(){
union(){
//cone pillar recesses
translate([-25.5,0,0])
cylinder(h=10,d=6.8);
translate([25.5,0,0])
cylinder(h=10,d=6.8);
}
//cone screw holes
translate([-25.5,0,-1])
cylinder(h=12,d=2.5);
translate([25.5,0,-1])
cylinder(h=12,d=2.5);
}
The text below here is the very short script to create a custom washer to stop the cable from popping out of the restraint.
//ion cone cable restraint washer
$fn=100;
difference(){
//main disk
cylinder(h=2,d=18);
//centre hole
translate([0,0,-1])
cylinder(h=4,d=3);
}

[@nickf950]

I like how the plastic staple scar is permanently marking the desk like a bit of Clive Lore.

[@vsvnrg3263]

i look for it on every episode.

[@RobertCraft-re5sf]

Yeah I was wondering what that was until I asked. Funny idea a plastic welder.

[@phils4634]

Along with the burn marks from the "battery fire" episode! That bench is becoming an Historical Artefact!

[@jlucasound]

@@phils4634 Worthy of the Smithsonian Institute! 🤣😄 You are awesome, Clive!! 🥰🤩❤

[@NinoJoel]

Almost every mark on that bench has history 😂

[@dsdmtom]

"A glorious cluttered technical life" is the kinds of commentary that brings a lot of joy and value to these videos.

[@soundspark]

I can relate.

[@matambale]

Also, a fine title for Clive's biography.

[@imqqmi]

I was more amused by the eventual avalanche comment, very relatable lol!

[@Ni5ei]

A small neon lamp inside would give it a nice orange glow and show it's plugged in.

[@Grid56]

A give a little HV warning .👍

[@Pantherman1979]

As a guy who has soldered in the past and still does now when needed; I've never burned myself with the gun itself..... However; I used to wear shorts in the summertime and I stopped that when I accidentally dropped a blob of solder on my leg when looking at a freshly soldered joint. And to my second, and more egregious act with a solder gun. I will NEVER forget this. It was a fall day, and I was finishing up replacing a capacitor on my computer's sound system; the bass unit. I was almost done but the gauge on my butane soldering gun indicated that it was set to run out soon. Now this gun was old at that point and the gauge was faulty, I didn't know that. Instead of turning it off and refilling it, I flipped it over and gave it a shot of butane. The gun was indeed full and because of that, shot butane up the gun and my arm simultaneously. This also caused the extra fuel to ignite, racing a burning track up my right arm to just a little past the elbow. I screamed like Doc when the car hit the rags in back to the future. Thankfully, the fire only lasted a few seconds and the only thing that suffered was my arm hair and my nose........ The basement where I was working, stunk like burnt hair for awhile.

[@Daemonworks]

Had a similar experience back in highschool. Shop had an old style of gas-fueled soldering setups that were basically a torch in a box, used for larger-scale soldering. They were lit with friction strikers. Being a highschool, those strikers were old, worn and unreliable. Turns out igniting a running gas source with an unreliable ignition method in a less than perfectly ventilated work area has some chance of producing a fireball when the striker finally produces a spark. No burns, but my eyebrows got properly singed, and my forearm hair was just /gone/.

[@voidseeker4394]

Refueling a torch while it is burning? Wow.

[@MattyEngland]

Darwin contender

[@jasonsgroovemachine]

I was doing some repair work in sandals and got a drop of it on the top of my foot. The words that came outta my mouth... you know what they were.

[@chuckthetekkie]

I always wear shorts and in fact had a blob of solder kiss my leg a few hours ago. I will probably never learn.

[@blanix6637]

I'm normally here for destruction but creation does "bring balance to the force" Awesome video Clive!

[@LonnonFoster]

How could anything that begins with "ramming a screwdriver in there" not end well? This seems like the perfect recipe for success!

[@magicaardvark1]

Love these projects where we have the OpenSCAD scripts.

[@gertbenade3082]

Instead of finishing my almost completed home-built FrankenPrusa 3D printer, I am sitting here watching Clive show us his g-code of something that I could print... Great project, thanks Clive!

[@fouzaialaa7962]

check out the Bear upgraid for the prusa printers !! i built a Bear prusha from the get go !! its awsome

[@GriotDNB]

Get on with it then! We have faith in you! One of us! One of us! 🙃

[@gertbenade3082]

@@GriotDNB Thanks for the motivation!! 😎 Just need to sort out some custom ROMs, use my scissors and do a bit of Klipper and sing a Duet or 2... Hardware is at least sorted out so far!! 💪

[@GriotDNB]

@@gertbenade3082 It's all in getting a comfortable firmware and hardware fine-tuning. Fun though, isn't it?

[@GriotDNB]

@@gertbenade3082 btw, poetry noticed!

[@johnknight7293]

Thanks Clive! I've finally realised we used to have one of these. We lived in Spain for 3 years and, due to the language barrier, no-one could explain the full purpose of the switch by the air-con control, except to say it was for dust (which the sahara provided an excess of). I thought it must be collecting somewhere in a steadily growing pile that would need to be cleaned out every few years🤣

[@wolfblade]

Always amazed that you create scripts vs using a CAD program. I always use parametric CAD, but it is cool as a developer to see someone use script to create models using simple functions.

[@bigclivedotcom]

I like the precise functionality and ability to make a parametric script with variables.

[@stevenspmd]

I was half expecting Clive to start "moon walking". If the glove fits! lol

[@bigclivedotcom]

I did toy with throwing in some Michael Jackson noises.

[@vsvnrg3263]

the glove reminds me of fagan in the oliver movie.

[@nickk6518]

@stevenspmd. Moon walking . . . or Clive could just grab his crotch in a suggestive sort of way. Incidentally, the back slide (later called the moon walk) was first performed on 24 June 1982 by Jeffrey Daniel of Shalamar on BBC's Top of the Pops 🤷‍♂

[@any1alive]

@@vsvnrg3263 gloves reminded me of femboy fishing, but.... lil too lumberjack for that x3 edit spelling, and to comment, not that im complaining x3

[@fluffyblue4006]

I like it that you translate your subtract-shapes for the difference-statements to 1 below the needed position and make them 1 higher than they need to be. It does nothing for the printed output but it looks better on the OpenSCAD screen. I do that too. I'm also planning to build an ionizer. I'd probably go the lazy route and just put the module into an emptied out USB charger plug.

[@cgoad]

Hi Clive. A double 'Yay'! Not only a build video - fantastic - but an ioniser one at that! Wonderful!

[@vsvnrg3263]

i was thoroughly consumed with interest when clive said we were 17 minutes in. i hadnt noticed.

[@LnD1808]

Nothing beats a Big Clive project video in the mornings🙂

[@The_Real_Grand_Nagus]

Very nice design. I like how much thought you put into the little details.

[@phils4634]

I definitely look forward to these ioniser demos! Thanks for the .STL files too - I'll print my own versions.

[@dreamvisionary]

3D printing right now. Thanks for sharing your design.

[@jhonsiders6077]

Watching Clive work is the best part I shake so bad I could never make those solder joints with out burning myself !

[@RJHElias]

Thank you so much Clive, I printed the files and they are perfect!

[@Aeduo]

If the thing is partly transparent, putting some kind of gentle flamey LED effect with some dim orange LEDs or something would be neat as a power indicator and would look kinda nice.

[@CyberlightFG]

Mini meteor light modules

[@user-hc6uo5fp8n]

Shame I make one about 3 weeks ago to your PK-A22F high voltage module teardown with schematic it works very well thank you and keep up the good work.

[@gavinthomas214]

Great little project Clive. I like the idea of a little LED on the inside to give a nice glow to the cone.

[@TopEndSpoonie]

Yes .... been waiting for an ioniser vid. Well done Clive.

[@TheSlyMouse]

Ionizer videos are always my favorite.

[@greentravels2850]

I really enjoyed this build video and associated knowledge!! Thank you!!

[@charlesgould8436]

Im going to have to enjoy this content a couple of times.

[@richardbrobeck2384]

Nice project clive !

[@FluorescentApe]

I like this build format. Nice change from the reverse engineering, even tho it's my favorite!

[@frankowalker4662]

Nice little project.

[@andrewprettyquick2070]

cant keep on boogie-ing like this, Fry.

[@gertbenade3082]

Faster than a green-snake up a sugarcane maan! 🤣

[@jhsevs]

21:20 Next iteration, add inn a 3rd screw pillar and hole, so that the 3 screw heads can function as feet without the thing tipping over.

[@bigclivedotcom]

I've toyed with that, and using the screw on rubber feet.

[@Driver-ez3ht]

just glue a hockey puck to the bottom

[@vanepico]

Intergalactic ship captains wearing super chromatic peril sensitive sunglasses have nothing on your relaxed attitude to danger in this video! Love it!

[@iamfubar1]

Very nice design!

[@dirkvandijk6112]

This was a journey, nice one.

[@davey2k12]

I'm surprised no rgb led was used in the making of the video 😂

[@strongandco]

The perfect project to watch while having a poop.

[@madscientist15808]

Nice design for the case, got one printing right now. A few years ago, I took apart a broken hairdryer which had pretty much the same module inside. Finally, I can put it to use :D

[@bigclivedotcom]

Is it a round or rectangular module?

[@alexandergros6708]

Printed it with nice black PETG for a 12v input ionizer module. Love it!

[@bigclivedotcom]

If using with a plug-in 12V power supply, I recommend grounding the negative of the low voltage side for better performance, and to protect the power supply against a high voltage between the low and high voltage sides.

[@alphadog6970]

Now this is the video i needed. Thanks big C. 👏👏🤝

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Very interesting project! Thanks for posting the script! I may even be tempted to print it, if I can overcome my increasing laziness :-)

[@barrydevonshire9749]

It is much easier to use a hook joint between the cables and resisors . great channel Clive

[@donvito1973]

I think I need Clive to impress the importance of Tech avalanches on my wife, she disapproves.

[@myarchus1]

An ordered desk (or workspace in this case) is the sign of a cluttered mind! 😜

[@d.t.4523]

Thank you, keep working.

[@twocvbloke]

Funnily enough I was re-watching one of the older vids on building an ioniser from scratch, funny how things seem to align like this, and it's a rather amazing contrast of going from a board with many stages of diodes and capacitors, to just an ominous black block with a few wires on it... :P

[@CrazyOregonBeaver]

And another perfectly excellent ream job, done by a master. 🤣

[@Conservator.]

Wow! That’s a very neatly designed case with much attention to detail! 👌

[@snakezdewiggle6084]

Looks like a Te Pe from those old cow boys and Indian Films. Everyone needs Te Pe Ionizer... 👍nice one Clive.

[@Madpegasusmax]

nice project , maybe a flickering neon lamp inside to look as a candle ? "cold fire" ...

[@ifell3]

Awesome 👍🏼

[@StephenBelcher-sr3zk]

Madeline Argy, Was Worried About You Clive❤

[@tonyweavers4292]

Touch the emitter end Clive, go on!😁😁 I might have to make one. Nice 3D print too.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's safe to touch. But if you are on a carpet it can charge you up with static electricity so you get a zap from grounded things afterwards.

[@felixscamp]

When Clive announced a build it yourself project, I admit I went looking for a empty washing up bottle with the name suitably concealed, & some sticky back plastic.😂

[@Conservator.]

22:49 adding weights like the Chinese do. That was exactly what I was thinking too. 🤣

[@JonathanWinterflood]

Nice! An easy way to add weight to things like this is to cast plaster (optionally adding sand, scrap metal, etc.) into them - allows maximizing the mass without worrying about attachment or shape Being 3D printed you can easily make a 'negative space' for the electronics so it stays serviceable

[@mikebarushok5361]

Modelling clay can also work for that purpose.

[@spedi6721]

Was watching your video with the phone laying flat in the table eating some pistachios. As soon as I saw the solder smoke rise, out of reflex I started blowing it away. Just wanted to help you 😅

[@UpLateGeek]

I feel like this is the level of weekend project that my overly exhausted mind could just about handle, except my 3D printer is broken and would take a lot more mental effort to fix. Also I'm not usually a fan of working with mains power, having got a couple of good zaps while working on projects in the past, but I like the way you demonstrate putting this together, makes it seem a lot more approachable.

[@BanzaiFU2]

Thx for the CAD editing thing! 🙂 I use an Ali "multi legged" ionizer unit on the exit/downwind side of the home-made MERV-13/box 20" fan filter. The "legs" are just badly arranged to the exit.. it does arc consistently ..repeated clicking sounds. The 1M resistor(s) might help. We have smog/ forest fires here pretty much every year.😮‍💨

[@peterwroberts]

"this week on 'crafts with Clive'" 😅 What a neat little thing!

[@gertbenade3082]

Can we throw in the indiscriminate use of a glue gun and perhaps some glitter? 🤔🤪

[@davidharvey114]

It would be interesting to combine this project with the kitchen roll air filter, to manage the precipitated dust.

[@ralfbauerfeind8236]

22:22 You could make an 0.01mm intend or similar on the plate for the feet in OpenSCAD. It will make nearly no change, but it should get the foot places printed in a different way so you can see where the feet should go. A bit experimenting sure is of need.

[@thepagan5432]

This is a great side project, thanks Clive 👍

[@putteslaintxtbks5166]

I think one could make a simple tester for detecting how much negative ions are being omitted. A small like 3 inch x 1/2 inch pcb with a copper finger pad to ground with your body, at one end a LED bulb, a small capacitor and a small copper at the other to collect the ions from the air, when near the ion generator. It should blink faster as more ions are collected and charge the capacitor and discharge into the LEDs. I once had an ion generater near a florescent light and when the bulb was turned off, it would flash every minite or so.

[@ZeedijkMike]

Looks very stylish - Could be Jacob Jensen (B & O) design. The black top is just the point over the i. The use of a global $fn = 100 can be a little wastefull, as small cylinders require a much smaller $fn value. For screw holes (2 mm - 10 mm) I use $fn = 8, maybe 12, for nuts I use $fn = 6 🙂 I basically set the $fn value depending on diameter and of course how it looks. As I often use "modules" in my SCAD designs I often just add the $fn parameter when using the module.

[@kyoudaiken]

I think you could just put the little washer as part of the cone at the base so it is printed with it and you can later just snap it off.

[@ovalwingnut]

220-240VAC in a small consumer sized devices. That is a ShOcKiNg revelation to me here in the U.S. Clearly the U.K. is a country of fearless Men & Women (and kids!). My potentially low conductive hat, gloves and booties are off to you sir 👷‍♂⚡

[@nomusicrc]

I wish I had your dexterity

[@GriotDNB]

No schematics but a schcript! Upgrading, are we? Well appreciated 👍🏻

[@coffeeconcentrate]

Cooling effect on your hand... That would be cool to see the air flow through your FLIR camera.

[@J.Christian28]

So funny I was thinking about how nice it would be to put a neon indicator in it right before you mentioned it 😅

[@smalcolmbrown]

Thanks :)

[@dcallan812]

oooh half of Madonna's bra with sparkles too. ❤ Love a little tip ☺ even carbon fibre. great video 2x👍

[@PaulSteMarie]

You could use three mounting screws and move them in a bit. That would allow use of rubber feet with a recessed hole for a mounting screen. I like that sort of foot much better. Those stick-on ones seem to fall off after a few months. The rubber ones seem to last for decades before hardening and crumbling away.

[@wgeddis]

The Madonna model, nice.

[@debgreentree]

Thanks

[@bigclivedotcom]

Thanks.

[@FrontSideBus]

It might not like my 250v supply lol A set of Presto twist drills that went from 1mm to 6mm in .1mm increments has been one of the most useful bits of kit that I have bought!

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's 250V here a lot of the time. The inside circuitry starts with a resistor and diode, so an extra resistor externally as shown will be fine.

[@vazhanatroshvili7523]

thanks

[@matthewmiller6068]

If you use flat-headed screws and tapered countersunk holes it would work well to make the screws flush and by doing it tapered instead of inset most printers will not need to use support material and do a nice bottom even with that on the base of the printbed.

[@ShadowzGSD]

Heat shrink is the modern equivalent too MICC cable where you get everything terminated only to find you forgot the shroud.

[@PsiQ]

And next week: Building your space laser step by step with Clive ... 🙂

[@lukevibertuk]

10:00 or as used by Railway Modelers in static highly effective grass applicators👍🏼

[@jonno3419]

I love your Videos, really gonna miss them when you're dead, in fact, can you record a load on a hard_drive and Ralphy can upload them for us?

[@bigclivedotcom]

I'm going to leave a huge catalogue of videos behind. At the moment the channel has almost 2500.

[@gutsngorrrr]

I would have added some LEDs inside the case, so it lit up. And as you said, I'd have added a base that you could add some weight in.

[@gilbertsprojects2954]

You could add a small “pigs tail” to the washer to hold the wires out of the way. I have no idea how to write the script but sounds like a fairly easy tweak to me

[@TerryLawrence001]

Instead of a cone , set fn=4 for the main body so it is a pyramid. That way you get pyramid power too!

[@phils4634]

BC - you definitely need one of those excellent Chinese rechargeable "Dremel-style" micro drills. Not so expensive, and remarkably durable, with the convenience of no mains lead required.

[@bigclivedotcom]

I have an Aldi cordless one here.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

Please don't worry about the length of your videos being too long! That is not even possible. Matter of fact, my personal preference is longer videos.

[@davidjones9730]

Lovely project Clive. Thanks Did i miss what the value of the resistors on the mains input?

[@bigclivedotcom]

It is only needed on 220-240V and even then it's optional. I used 10K resistors.

[@markstuckey6225]

6:00 I've always been suspicious of colleagues who've kept their work places tidy and ordered. Never any burn marks on their benches, probes all hung neatly, no solder splashes anywhere, solder all rolled nicely etc.

[@soundspark]

When it comes to those solder spikes I just put some more flux on it and reflow it.

[@12345.......]

Is that burn the same you had a bandage on a month ago, or a new one? If it's the old burn, have it examined to make sure it isn't infected.

[@bigclivedotcom]

It's healed now. That video was made earlier.

[@madscientist15808]

For some reason, I can't reply to your question under my previous comment (the comment just disappears), but anyway, here's my answer: It's a rectangular module. The model number is "Honge FF-351". It's pretty much the same as yours, the only difference being that the wires come out from the side. I printed the case in clear PLA so I can add a neon lamp to it. Not only is it useful as an indicator to show that it's plugged in and running, but it also makes it look more stylish 😁

[@vladthe_cat]

Ah yes, the Spicy-Air Cone

[@Grid56]

It never ceases to amaze me how solderingly dextrous you are 👍. Regarding end to end joints, you just hold one wire next to the other. The books I used to read years ago always told you to make a good mechanical joint before making a solder joint. Is this no longer recommended ?

[@mikebarushok5361]

It's certainly better to make a firm physical connection before soldering. But, for something stationary and with no stresses on the wires the heat shrink adds sufficient strength. Personally when at mains voltage I prefer two layers of heat shrink. One shorter just long enough to cover stripped wires and resistor and another one size large and long enough to overlap the insulation about a half inch at each end. Doubled heat shrink does result in having to plan where to place the resulting connections. Sometimes I just put the outer heat shrink over the pair of wires, depending.

[@KeritechElectronics]

You really could use a fume extractor over there. Speaking of which... I wonder if ionizers can help separate the dust in these :).

[@user-mz1uh4ju1n]

Hi, I subscribed to you:)

[@SumNumber]

That solder sure flowed right onto the wire nicely ! Paste by chance ? I guess I am not " getting " something here. For probably more years than is known now, somewhere in the billions they say, there never was a thing called an " ionizer ". Did eh.....did something break that I am not aware of ? :O)

[@ConstantlyDamaged]

Hrmm, I'm thinking that a soft spring pogo pin on the bottom, wired to electrical earth, might be a nice upgrade. That way you could sit this on a metal tray (like a sheet pan or such) and have that become earthed to attract the crud.

[@bigclivedotcom]

Some ionisers use a small positive multiplier to make the collection mat more of a target for the dust.

[@DylanJordan1994]

How would one include the use of a capture plate to this design? I've been wanting to implement an air ionizer to one of my old projects. Hepa/UVC. Learned a lot from your videos over the years.

[@bigclivedotcom]

You could either use a grounded metal plate in the vicinity, or use a positive voltage multiplier to raise its voltage slightly, with lots of series safety resistors to limit current.