DIY Carbon Fiber Trunk: Part 1. (Ep. 55)

[@Bluswede]

A word on de-molding parts...industrial-style! I worked in a fiberglass fab shop for a while. We did flip fronts for large trucks, tanks for airport crash vehicles, large piping, and many other products with huge surface areas. The standing molds we used had what amounted to tire valve stems (minus the Schraeder valve) mounted in them during the making of the mold. Mold prep included putting a paper "tape dot" over where the valve stem opened into the mold. De-molding was just a non-event...you put an air hose up to the valve stem and give it a few quick shots, being careful not to apply too much too quick. You could watch as the area of release expanded til the part literally popped out of the mold! A little gel coat and block sand would remove the defect from the tape dot...easy-peasy! I learned a lot and rolled tons of chopper-gun-applied "mat" at that place!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I've been thinking about doing this for my next "big" mold. The smaller molds I've just finished have all been zero drama to demold.

[@jeppewerring]

I'm not ashamed to admit I watched all your videos in 3 days when I discovered them sometimes last week. Can't wait to see the "finished" car!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - that makes two of us!

[@mattmoilanen3813]

It's kinda fun too watch your skills develop as you learn and most importantly make stuff. Any dingus can talk a good game but when the rubber meets the road as they say those who make something are the only ones to listen too. It's also nice to here you say you'll take what you have and be happy to do some minor fixes to correct it. That's real life huh.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

So true Matt. Your comment encapsulates the reason for my build. I'm addicted to learning new skills and love the challenge. It comes at a price, but learning is a lot of fun. It's my philosophy - this content will always be that honest.

[@resinadao502]

I love your videos. The real time clips are more helpful than you realize. You’re super informative. Keep up the amazing content!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - glad you're finding the work useful!

[@AficionadoSeeds]

Your videos are obviously a gift to humanity. Thanks for teaching people how to realize their dreams.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for watching!

[@cskiles]

Just found your channel, but its everything I have been looking for as a super new DIY carbon fiber hobbyist. I wish the algorithm gave you the respect you deserve.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - the algorithm doesn't like me much. I'm fine with that. Like - Subscribe - do whatever you like. LOL.

[@mikkel1249]

again YOU ROCK as a teacher and i wish i had half the patience as you have , you dive deep into your project and also taking the time to explain it to us THANK you very much . And your journey is definitely worth following . Have a nice day , Ivan From Denmark

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Ivan!

[@2WheelsSometimes1]

This might help in the future if you have this much trouble again, even with the big white wedges. Wedge your wedges, stick another wedge under the other. Keep them a little staggered so that It may allow you to tap the wedges further into the part/mold. Enjoy watching your progression and learning experience. I plan on building custom motorcycles using composites, so I'm pumped to find your channel and get some more ideas of how to go about it and prep. Looking forward to seeing your VW done, and especially what it will weigh.

[@richmac918]

I happened to stumble onto your video and after watching this series I now know two things. 1. Why carbon fiber parts cost so much and 2. why I will never make my own carbon fiber parts. Damn dude, this is a lot of work, and I mean a lot of work. First you have to make the mold and then the part. My hats off to you, I don't have nearly the patience you do.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Rich - it's a ton of work...but it sure is fun when a part comes out.

[@MrInnovativeEnergy]

I'm glad I've never polished out the release with a machine! Very useful info. Will make sure I keep hand application of the release!

[@allanknudsen2616]

I just love your attitude learning how to work with cf. You're definitely a fast learner. Looking forward to your next episode. 👍

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@MonumentalMotorsports]

I caught your channel when you started with the carbon fiber work but I liked the content enough to start from the beginning and make my way through all 50+. Keep up the good work!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks for tuning in Eric. I appreciate the support.

[@earlhorton1092]

Thank you for the information and inspiration. Working on the molds for the front spoiler on my Oldsmobile Cutlass. Much appreciated from the States

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Glad to help

[@bgdwiepp]

For my post cure oven, I made a crate out of aluminium sheet, then used high temp silicone adhesive (Sikaseal) to attach silicone-carbon floor heating wire to the aluminium sheet, then used mineral wool to insulate it + hold the wire against the aluminium, then some plywood to hold that all together. Really good, takes about 500W to hold the inside at 90 degrees C with an outside temperature of 10 degrees C and there isn't really any hot spots, this would be ideal for post cure or even for just normal faster curing once the infusion is done.

[@captainzero1]

Another great video of actual, real life experience. Thanks for showing the time lapse , it helps understand the process better. Thank you also for showing the issues you have - it helps me think about the things I need to look out for. Keep up the great work!

[@TheShaddix]

Typed up my suggestion for a release agent, then realized it's exactly what you are using already!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Well, when I let it sit long enough and don't go nuts and polish it off. My mistake.

[@TheShaddix]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Infusion is a process one never stops learning! I've done over 50 of them so far and I feel like I am now finally grasping the ins and outs of it. Btw, do you think it's fine to substitute spiral wrap for the vacuum inlet with just a strip of flow mesh? More cost-effective and easier to set up, I figure it does the same function. What are your thoughts on that?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@TheShaddix As long as you've got a gap where the bag won't shut off draw, I can't see why not. I'd probably double it a couple of times just to be sure.

[@TheShaddix]

@@ThrottleStopGarage For sure. Thanks for your replies! I just found your channel and appreciate how detailed your explanations are! It makes the viewer feel like they are there with you figuring things out.

[@WereAllThatBored]

A way to keep your resin waste down is to weigh all of your cloth, and peel ply. If the total weight is 800 grams, use 800 grams of mixed epoxy as a starting point. Then add extra for your infusion mesh, lines, and bucket to prevent air from being sucked in. Also, a safety net for semi permanent mold release is a coat of release wax prior to infusing. Same technique though, no polishing, just light pressure to remove the excess.

[@RR3EURO]

The oprah music was comical with the battle you had removing the trunk from the mold. 🤣

[@semaex]

*opera

[@RR3EURO]

@@semaex yeah autocorrect loves Oprah 🤣

[@zedthehun]

Build an air port into the mold. Attach your compressor and pop it off with air. Fair the inside of the port with plasticine.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That makes sense and I know the pros do it. I'm scared of doing it - maybe on the final mold.

[@volvovalor8051]

It is also very satisfying to watch while having a morning coffee :D

[@blackfrost273industries4]

I have liked your stuff for a long time. Really shattered the expectation that carbon fiber and fiberglass is a hard process. I'm glad that it is not and that you are making content showing this. Keep it organic

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - that's been the goal of the channel.

[@dragmeundermusic]

I know it’s late now, but for future projects you can use a high pressure air blower with an air compressor and blow air in between the mold and part and it will pop the part out. I made helicopter parts for almost a decade and can’t imagine the pain it would be trying to pull parts from molds without using an air blower. High flow, high pressure 👌🏽. Good luck, these look great, love watching these videos.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I just got the blower wedge attachment! Looking forward to better mold releases coming up.

[@dragmeundermusic]

It just might change your life haha. keep it up!!

[@Wooley689]

I won't repeat what others have already said, now for a first pull I would say it was a success, not perfect but lessons learned makes it a success. Failure is always progress for without failure, progress can not move forward to success.

[@perfectworldpat7053]

I work with foam for a living. My suggestion for holes would be to put a leather punch in that drill press.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That's a great idea. I'll remember it for next time.

[@danielkane1770]

I subscribed.. you are a patient man.. wow..nice work

[@LindyDesignLab]

Interesting carbon fiber wear pattern you got there.

[@robboramone8553]

Also a tip to make your life easier while releasing parts from moulds use compressed air

[@Looptydude]

Lesson learned to be sure, but it's always good to see the trials and tribulations. If it had been me there would definitely be more curses and objects being hurled.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I was mostly confused by why it wouldn't come out...then I got worried that it wouldn't come out!

[@mtm1988]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I didn't get why it didn't come out easier?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@mtm1988 Because I polished off the release agent. Simple mistake.

[@mtm1988]

@@ThrottleStopGarage ah, so you were just supposed to apply and leave it there?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@mtm1988 Wipe with a micro fiber cloth...wipe, not polish. I got a little carried away.

[@sailingluana3037]

I thought I had a bug on my screen and tried to kill it. Lol. Interesting layup man. Nice work.

[@insAneTunA]

All together it looks great.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks - it's going to take some work to correct - but mistakes are part of getting better.

[@insAneTunA]

@@ThrottleStopGarage I think that it would be interesting to see how you are going to correct it. I would think, but correct me if I am wrong, that you need to sand it, and treat it as if a normal car needs a repair with new primer. I mean, it takes time, especially all the sanding, but structural the piece seems to look just fine to me, and that is a good bases to start with.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@insAneTunA The tricky part (I've been testing it) is that the carbon fiber has about zero abrasion resistance. So I will have to blend those areas in by hand and be very careful...no easy steps in the sanding (or this entire build!).

[@ryszardjacekrusniak7993]

Ron, did you worked for Tampa Bay Shipyard years ago? It's RJ... enjoyed your videos... and learned... and Chopin sounds really good... all the best.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Must be my doppleganger - my name is Craig not Ron.

[@jarkkonieminenprotuning]

Nice work. I like things to do perfect and you really do that. From start to finish. Now when you know how to do fibre works shoud you do inner fender to front and rear also? I do that to my hobbycar. So now dirt and sand is not fly to metal parts under the car.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Jarkko - I'm thinking about how to do the inner front fender area. I'm torn as I can also do these parts in steel and be happy with the result. I will do a fender liner in plastic (ABS probably) if I do them in steel to keep debris off the inside of the fender.

[@TheSharpy088]

You my friend have cracked it.. next step out of clave pre pregs 😉 a tip for the future 700nc is better used on metallic mould I'm guessing its oil based, something like marbocote hp7 for composite mould, believe its wax based. Minimum of 6 coats for first pull. Good luck look forward to your next videos

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Dan. Working hard on the next molds. I've got to get the frame done.

[@1993ka24det]

I never had that much fun removing a part with Frekote. But I have had to use a pressure washer to remove one at work. My first mould had small flanges, i now do 6-8 inch minimum. I tried to get on DIY Carbon Fiber and it's been 2-3 weeks with no response.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

They're usually faster than that for the Facebook group. I just need to improve my application - it's gone fine otherwise.

[@ferrariguy8278]

Do you plan on making a mold of the perimeter inner core structure? Maybe it isn't needed for your build, but I would imagine that for some builders that structure would be needed not just for stiffness, but for part of the structure that the trunk rubber seal sits against. Again, try some high pressure air from a blow gun to get some mold separation. IDK how well it will work for you, but I've seen others do it. Looking forward to more videos!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Working on the frame right now. Next episode will cover making the molds.

[@johngregory4801]

Looks like it was racing in the Dent-O-Matic 500!!!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Took about 15 minutes to fix...just dumb luck that it ever came out of the mold.

[@johngregory4801]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Being lucky is the best skill of all.

[@mattnsac]

AHHH thats how the primer came loose! Youre still batting .995 so dont beat yourself up over that. I really hope you have a pre and post weight comparison when youre all done.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

For sure for the weight comparison. I'm just finishing the molds for the frame right now. It's going to be fun to see the result.

[@moparsteve1]

I started making my first carbon fiber mold after studying you videos. Have some questions if you have time.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

How can I help you?

[@moparsteve1]

@@ThrottleStopGarage well I had the gel coat get some bad spots after I pulled the plug. I think I rushed the process by applying the first layer of chop mat over the fiber clothe before it was cured. And I had a lot of air pockets around the edges .

[@MrCrankyface]

Jeeze, I was nervous just watching you try to pry it off, came out great tho!

[@0623kaboom]

now was it a lack of mold release ... or too much overlap of the resin over the edges ... mind you a heat gun would have popped it out a lot faster just warm the inside up and as it expands it pops out on its own

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Yes...i polished the mold release and now I know not to do that. I never thought about heating it up - that's smart.

[@antalbodnar3188]

HI! I found your channel recently I watched many of your videos,, great build! I hadn't even known this car before. However I still don't know if this will be a street car or race car only? I don't know the regulations in Canada. Will you make the bonnet carbon fibre too?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

This is a street car with some track use - regulations are pretty lax here in Canada...technically, I pay the registration every year and this car is "on the road". I'll have it properly inspected/engineered when done. The bonnet will be carbon fibre as well when done.

[@rrarms3159]

Maybe, you can cut the holes into foam using leather cutter. That would be faster with clean edges and no dust in the hole after drill bit ;)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I tried that and with a 3 mm (1/8") hole, it didn't work very well.

[@2WheelsSometimes1]

I have a resin question for you. On behalf of my wife and myself. I only have a shed, not insulated, so in winter my only option is inside the house (Fellow Canuck myself). I'm concerned about the fumes from the resin. However I notice that you don't wear a respirator when you mix and watch your infusion. Are the fumes minimal, or is it because your garage has enough circulation to keep the air quality good?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Epoxy is pretty odorless - compared to polyester resin for example - which stinks. Once you start the infusion, the material is hardening in a vacuum - so it doesn't smell. When done, it's chemically inert. I hope this helps.

[@2WheelsSometimes1]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Thank you very much.

[@philipgreenwood841]

Interesting Video. I have never seen primer used on top of a mould instead of gelcoat or just the resin from the infusion. Do you think the primer attacked the release agents you used thus giving you problems releasing? I used to get the same problem when using a brush for gelcoat that had been cleaned in acetone and although dried out for 24 hrs, there still remaind a few drops in the handle which I didn't realise. Obviously the acetone takes off any polish/release agent and bad things happen. Different reason but same result. I use a new brush every time for applying gelcoat now and no probs. Thanks for taking the time to do these videos.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Nope - I just polished instead of just wiping the release agent. Subsequent parts have been no drama at all. Completely my fault.

[@philipgreenwood841]

@@ThrottleStopGarage There's a product I use here in the UK called easylease. No wax polish, just a couple of coats of this stuff. I was skeptcal but it's works a treat. I'm nothing to do with the company though, just found it works well.

[@RodrigoNascimentoMattos]

very nice my friend! you are getting it fast! my 50c goes here: perfurated film after the peel ply and before the infusion mesh will make the infusion very easy to demold and very clean too. first clamp the vacum line, than the resin feed, doing that you release some of the pressure of the mold and make a better infusion when doing carbon without primer. is this an epoxy primer^? this delamination could be 2 things: lack of demolding wax or any other demoldant or just the polyester primer not beeing compatible with the epoxy :) congratulations again! regards from brasil, Rodrigo Lagoa

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm sure the delamination was my fault. I just like polishing things...I've reviewed the tape. It was me. Nowhere to hide when you record every minute in the garage. I have some perforated film...I'll use it on the hood when I do that.

[@capitao2259]

Heating to get the peelplay off is just making it to stick even more :D

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm no expert, but a little heat did work.

[@matthewdupuis232]

You needed to go black and white when Stefan's tune came up.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I thought about it...I tried to cut it so that it was nothing but the cracking/muttering for the entire clip. I was surprised when I looked and saw that it took me a full hour to get that thing out of the mold!

[@markkraus3598]

Good video- just curious, why the duratec instead of gel coat or just doing the CF finish on the top side ( there’s just something sexy about a CF finish ) ? Is the chemical release used instead of waxing & PVA ? Thanks

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

These parts will be painted, so the VE primer gives the best surface for the start of that process. I will have a little bit of CF exposed on the car - but very little. The chemical release does take the place of the wax/PVA.

[@onepairofhands]

another good video, and that's a fine looking boot (UK speak) :)

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks Peter - It sure will be when done.

[@RemoveAndReplaceAuto]

At 18:43 when you said, in text, "Just wipe the release agent...don't POLISH IT!" Were you referring to the moment when preping your mold for the layup? Is that why you had trouble releasing the trunk from your mold? Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Yes, that was my big mistake. Just wipe, don't polish.

[@patriotkieler9750]

This is awesome

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Thanks.

[@gbtalk5550]

Good informative videos, when you paint it will it be a 2Pk if so what face mask do you use ? and is it for 2pk paint.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Yup - I've got a fresh air system I use.

[@paulkoomen5262]

Thank you for your video's. I know I am late to the party, But It will help me in my future project build. With Fiberglass, I use a Shot of air to help me de mold , Would you mind listing all the products you used again, and the numbers. Are you buying this in Canada or from the USA ? Thanks from Manitoba.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Hi Paul, I'm a native Manitoban! All products are listed in the description. I'm purchasing from Composite Envisions in Wisconsin. Have a look at their website or give them a call.

[@glassblastcollision]

Wouldn't it help if you blew some compressed air under an open edge as ya pull it out of the mould.?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Absolutely! It would have helped even more if I hadn't wiped the release agent off!

[@ncofab46]

What kind of tack spray do you use

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Fibertack MT-1 for the carbon and 3M Super 77 for the foam.

[@nbwatki]

Question - could you use something hot like soldering iron or heated wire to run holes and ensure they're clear?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Not sure - I've never tried it.

[@raylansall6764]

Maybe make a mold of that spider.... just a thought. LOL!!

[@patriotkieler9750]

how long did it take for the resin to flow through I see this is accelerated but what was the realistic time for flow.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I think it was around an hour. Always infuse slowly.

[@mickcoomer9714]

I used to guess how much resin to mix. Then I stated weighing it and calculating how much to mix. I find my guess is neared than my calculation.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I've adjusted the rato and now it's pretty close and consistent.

[@Bwilson-31]

Why didnt you use gel coat? And peel ply

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

No need for gel coat with the primer (ready for paint) and I did use peel ply.

[@RR3EURO]

Why do you think the primer stuck this time unlike the other ones?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I didn't let the release agent fully cure before polishing it like crazy.

[@RR3EURO]

@@ThrottleStopGarage noted 👍🏾

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@RR3EURO I wasn't patient enough and needed to fully observe the cure time and don't "polish" the mold, just wipe it off with a clean microfiber cloth. I've kicked myself a lot for this mistake. Through these mistakes I will learn.

[@Akira.Nibbai]

Can you not put compressed air to pop it out?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You can - but I've never tried to put proper ports in a mold. Not really that brave just yet.

[@BrandonBurns1985]

Why primer and not gel coat

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Because I'm painting the parts. It makes sense to me to prime in the mold.

[@BrandonBurns1985]

@@ThrottleStopGarage but would priming be the reason it's not releasing well?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@BrandonBurns1985 I've only had this problem on one part. Otherwise the primer has worked. The fault was mine...not the primer. Priming these parts out of the mold is not attractive for getting the project done.

[@BrandonBurns1985]

@@ThrottleStopGarage ok awesome good to know. Enjoy the videos. I'm preparing to start a carbon fiber project myself.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@BrandonBurns1985 Have fun!

[@robboramone8553]

Are you spraying your moulds in primer or sanding gelcoat?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Primer - and it's working very well.

[@rocketsurgeon1746]

Have you tried compressed air? :) sorry, couldnt help it

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I'm going to start a contest! I should get a new shirt out that says this. LOL.

[@ceglacegla6831]

What is the weight of the original lid?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

10.75 kg with the skin being 6.75 kg.

[@josephd.4890]

Did you not use a mold release agent?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sure...Freekote 700-NC. It just doesn't work very well when you're impatient and polish it all off. Oops!

[@russellmiller2564]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Another thing to consider is the Duratec is a styrenated polyester primer... its very similar in chemistry to gel coat. Without using PVA again in the mold, you may have had some chemical crosslinking to compound the non-ideal release agent application. I also find it interesting you did not do any prep (sanding) to the duratec primer to give a keyed surface for the infused epoxy to adhere to. Epoxy will not chemically crosslink with ester based products. Good luck with your next part if you are pulling one.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@russellmiller2564 The manufacturer’s fact sheets didn't include any instruction on sanding the mold post priming. The panels so far have all shown excellent adhesion to the primer. As I stated in the video, it was my misapplication of the release agent that was the problem.

[@russellmiller2564]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Yeah I'm not saying you are wrong about any of it, just giving you some input from my own personal and professional knowledge and experience. Glad you aren't having problems with good adhesion of the primer to your laminate. This has definitely been an issue in the marine industry where some builders used polyester gelcoats and then an epoxy laminate. Looks Ok coming out of the mold but then a few years down the line the gelcoat comes off in sheets. Might not be an issue with automotive body panels as I wouldn't think they are as highly stressed as marine structures, but it is something I thought you might want to think about. You'll know best because you know your process and have the tooling and parts in front of you, but from what I could see of the panel and the primer left in the mold, there was no primer on the part in the areas of the stick up, and no epoxy or carbon on the primer in those same areas. That's usually a sign of poor adhesion... You could put any concerns to rest by trying to get a knife between the primer and the laminate and see if it fails. There is also an adhesion test that is often used in marine coatings. Score a small area of primer (dont go too deep into the carbon laminate!) with a knife in a criss cross hath pattern (maybe a square inch) then firmly apply some tape over the scoring and aggressively pull it off. If any primer comes off with none left on the panel, I'd suggest you think harder about it. If not, you've got more confidence in your parts and your process. Can't hurt to test and learn. Do it close to the stick up areas as you'll have to repair those anyways... It would really suck to put in all the work you are doing into such a great restoration, only to drive the car a few miles and have your finish start failing on all of your custom carbon body panels

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@russellmiller2564 Thanks! Seriously important information you've given me here. When I say that it's not in the fact sheet - that's quite literally all I have to go by. I will experiment as you've suggested and make sure things are fine. When I repaired the primer on that panel, no primer flaked off. The epoxy and carbon were imprinted on the primer that was left in the mold. The way it failed was interesting. The primer in the mold won't come off the mold - so it's bonded (I suspect I will have to sand it off if I ever use the mold again), and the connection between the primer and the panel was not as strong as the primer and the gel coat - but the primer on the mold had epoxy attached to it (the imprint of the fabric) so I took that as a positive. Anyway - thanks for sharing your experience and I'll check this out.

[@johngregory4801]

"Nothing too strong ever broke." I'm going use that as I work on parts for my own car. BTW, that's not "peel ply"... It's "jerk ply", because ya gotta yank on that stuff to get it off.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL...it needed a lot more than a jerk. I wasn't brave enough to try to use the perforated film everyone kept telling me to use.

[@Rhapsheet]

whats the product name of that thin paper stuff your using to get templates

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You get it at fabric stores. Not sure what it's called.

[@Dannerrrr]

Hit the like button at "Don't tell my wife!" I've got you bud. 17:12

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - much appreciated.

[@cherr979]

Never worked with Carbon so Just asking ?? Never worked with Carbon so Just asking ?? But what method do you use to round over the edges of the finished panel so there wee no raw edges to the carbon fiber? Can you was sand it to mimic the roll edge of the Volvo part ? Did you create a list of materials and specs on the vacuum pump required to draw the vacuum ? Thanks

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Once the edges are finished sanded (permagrit works great then just finish with regular abrasives -carbon fiber is not abrasion resistant) the edges will be coated with epoxy to seal. My pump is an old Gast rotary vane pump. I'm at 900 m altitude, so when fully vacuumed, I am reading around 27 in Hg on the gauge.

[@cherr979]

@@ThrottleStopGarage Is yor pump like a 1/4 HP ??

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@cherr979 Yes - It's a rotary vane industrial pump.

[@cherr979]

@@ThrottleStopGarage thanks you for the reply !! Do yo have car all back together now ?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

@@cherr979 not even close!

[@DjTRex08]

Its a shame about the stick up. Just with bag bigger is better and next time give this a try. Instead of putting the vac tape around the flange of the mould. cut a over sized bag and on a clean flat surface run the vac tape around the edge of the bag. Then Take the bag to the mould and start in each corner with a pleat and a pleat where the mould changers shape or where more bag is needed then work the vac tape around close it up. try that...

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

That is a good idea. Great tip - I may be brave enough to try it.

[@petermyers3498]

This is an interesting approach. I'll be finishing up a front fascia in the coming weeks and will be ready to infuse. Do you suppose this will work well with odd-shaped parts? Or better off utilized on something that's more square in shape?

[@DjTRex08]

@@petermyers3498 Shouldn't really matter shape wise. Just make sure the bag is over size and be sure to pleat where the mould changers shape. We always start with pleats in the corners of bag and flange around the mould then just work the bag down. because you've started at each corner and the bag is over sized you will had plenty of bag to work around the mould.

[@petermyers3498]

@@DjTRex08 Thanks for the advice! I'll give that a shot on my next part

[@다이짱카]

Oh! Good!

[@SirGuidemere91]

Is there any way to do carbon fiber without that machine?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

The vacuum pump? Nope.

[@SirGuidemere91]

@@ThrottleStopGarage ah worth an ask. Lol

[@CristianGonzalez-qs3cq]

Hey mr! I would like to give you a quick tip , where /how can I reach u

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

facebook.com/ThrotteStopGarage/ Thanks.

[@a914freak]

When doing the infusion, shouldn't the feed side be at the highest point and the pull side at the lowest point?? And it shouldn't be that hard to separate the piece from the mold itself, that was brutal to watch how long it took to get apart!

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I focus on minimum distance for resin travel. Highest to lowest doesn't matter under vacuum. I messed up the release application...making for fun content.

[@xTinBenderX]

Subbed

[@unrulysoldier2140]

Grab yourself a pop shield for dialogue plosives as any viewer with a multimedia tv setup with good bass will get a bass thump every time. You know the things they sit in front of your mic. Good stuff though.

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

The video is several years old...I've got a better mic now!

[@facebook-vz1jg]

You forgot the release wax

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

No, I just wiped off the chemical release agent.

[@facebook-vz1jg]

Thanks for the information you are really helpful

[@TylerGotAYTAccount]

Thought I subbed. Guess not. Is that a "chopped" banner in the back?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

You bet. Love MCM and friends.

[@ryno9732]

but why dont you colab with that spider??????? like duh lol

[@ابوطاهر-ب4م]

ترجموه للعربية

[@01wizmiles01]

your mold is too stiff, it needs to be flexible so you can release it. the steel bars are the problem

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Learning...it's hard like that.

[@frankstocker5475]

Have you ever thought about building an Electric car?

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

Sure - this car may get converted in the future.

[@kdel9776]

come do that in my closet, i think i have more room

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

LOL - one day I'll have room. Then I'll fill it with junk.

[@iKODEAK]

You should use gloves! Resin is like a knife be careful next time

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

I will next time to be sure. It's like broken glass. Be careful people.

[@almierz4604]

Looks like too much work for me, think I'd rather pay someone to do it !

[@ThrottleStopGarage]

It's not worth it to pay to have it done...unless you're planning on going into production.