DIY Elevator with Wireless Remote (No Welding!)

[@mikeh7256]

Instructions Cut hole for ceiling to fit 3x5 elevator • Remember the 3x5 base platform will stick off the wall 3.5” before the platform begins • Plan for where the Unistrut guides will go. • Measure a hole to be 3’ 6” x 5’ • Set the saw blade to be just enough to penetrate the depth of the floor then cut the hole. • Mark a cut line on the joists away from the hole by the thickness of the joists, then cut the joists to open up the hole. • We now need to support the floor to the right and left of the hole where we’ve removed the joists. Measure the distance from the wall joist to the next uncut joist. Using the sections of joists you cut out, measure them to fit, then secure them to the cut sections to form a bridge. Mount the Unistruts • Determine what needs to be done to get the Unistruts to go into your attic. In my case, I had to get past a tall thick brick footer, so I built out from the studs with the 2x10’s and secured them to the existing studs. • Drill holes every 12-16 inches the length of the Unistrut. Make sure the holes are big enough to fit a 2” deck screw. Do this for each. • Now mount the Unistruts. Using a level, take the first one and screw it into the stud support making sure it is perfectly perpendicularly level straight up and down. Mount the second strut the same way. It is critical that they both be perfectly level or the strut guides will bind. • Place (2) 3x5/16 bolts in each strut trolley. A washer will not fit inside the trolley and you may have to widen the holes slightly with a drill to make sure the 5/16 bolt goes through the holes. • Place 2 strut trollies with the bolts inside each Unistrut. They will rest on the bottom. • We will cut the other Unistrut to go to the top of your elevator later. Build the Platform • Cut (2) 2x4’s to 59” • Take 1 of the 2x4’s that will be the base of the frame closest to the wall and measure to make sure that it is centered between the Unistruts. • Mark and drill 4 mounting holes so the 5/16 bolts go through. Do not install the nuts yet. • Cut (4) 2x4’s to 32.5” to be the depth of the frame. • Making sure the frame is square, use (2) 2.5” deck screws and assemble the frame. Space the 2 middle pieces equally and screw together. • Loosely attach the frame base to the strut trollies and mark approximately ¼” towards the outside of the unistruts. This will be the mounting location of the (2) upright supports. • Cut (2) 2x4’s to 37”. These are the (2) upright supports. This will be the height of the elevator platform. • Remove the frame from the trollies and attach the 2 upright supports to the frame using glue, (2) 3” 5/16 bolts, (4) washers and (2) nuts on each support. Make sure the uprights are perpendicularly level to the frame. Upper portion of Platform • Cut (1) 2x6 56.5”. This will be the top beam of the platform. • Center it between the 2 Unistruts and mark the holes for the trolley and upright support attachments. • Attach the top beam to the upright supports using glue and (2) 3” 5/16 bolts, (4) washers and (2) nuts on each support. Secure the trolleys using a washers and nuts. • Measure the distance between your Unistruts and cut a 2x6 1” shorter than that distance. • Center this 2x6 between the 2 Unistruts and attach it to the back of the top beam using plenty of glue and 2.5” deck screws from both the front and back of the beam. This will add additional strength to the beam. • Drill a ½” perpendicular hole in the center of the top beam attached to the trolleys for the 8” eyebolt. • Insert the 8” eyebolt in the top and secure it using a washer and nut. This eyebolt will hold over 3,000 lbs • Cut (2) 2x4 pieces 5.5” and attach to either outer end of the front of the top beam using glue and 2.5” deck screws. Side Supports for Lower Platform • Cut the 8’ aluminum in half. • Lay a 4’ section from the top outer left of the platform so that it lands on the lower inside of the frame base. Mark 2 spots at the top and 2 at the bottom to drill out to fit the 5/16 lag screws. Do this for the right side as well. • Drill the 4 holes in each 4’ section of aluminum. • Cut a 3’x5’ section of plywood for the base floor. • Cut a 3” slit in the base to allow the aluminum strap to pass through. To do this, measure from the back of the base (closest to the wall) 28” and 2” in from the edge to bypass the 2x4 frame and cut the slit (using a jigsaw) 3” towards the front of the base (furthest from the wall). The edge of the cut should be approximately 31 inches from the wall. • Dry fit the base onto the base frame and verify that the 4’ aluminum side straps fit the way you expect. Make any necessary adjustments. • Attach the 3’x5’ base onto the frame using glue and 2” deck screws. • Using the 1.5” 5/16 lag screws, attach each 4’ aluminum strap to the platform. To attach the bottom lag screws, I used a couple of buckets to slide the structure up enough to get underneath the frame. Each lag screw should hold over 220 lbs giving you 440 lbs of capacity per side on the platform.

[@mikeh7256]

Finish the top Unistrut extensions • The top of the Unistruts must be a few inches above the overall height of the elevator frame. Therefore, you will cut (2) pieces of Unistrut to go on top of the current mounted Unistrut to the height needed. Remembering that the elevator frame is 37” tall, the Unistruts final height should be at least 41” above the attic floor. • Measure, cut and secure the required Unistruts on top of the existing Unistruts using 2” deck screws and make sure that they are perpendicularly level with the other struts. Make sure there are no rough edges on the butted ends. The Hoist Beam • The bottom edge of the hoist beam should be at least 29” above the top of the elevator to give ample spacing. If you had to build out your studs before attaching the Unistruts, you will have to build out the studs before mounting the hoist beam. The hoist beam should be directly lined up with the top beam of the elevator before attaching to the eyebolt. • Build out the studs if needed. • Cut (1) 2x6 hoist beam the length to span the distance of the 2x4 upright building framing and attach using glue and 2.5” deck screws. • Cut another 2x6 hoist beam the exact length as the last. • Using glue and 2.5” deck screws, attach this to the other hoist beam for added strength. • Drill at least 3 5/16” holes in the doubled hoist beam and use 3.5” 5/16 bolts, washers and nuts to additionally secure the 2 hoist beams together. The Hoist • Cut a section of Unistrut at least 30” to mount to the bottom of the hoist beam. There are 2 hoist brackets that come with your hoist. They will fit perfectly over the Unistrut. The Unistrut will be mounted to the hoist beam using at least (5) 2.5” deck screws, but you will need to add enough washers between the Unistrut and the hoist beam at each screw to be the thickness of the 2 hoist brackets. • Mark the center of the hoist beam. The hoist will be mounted offset so that the cable hangs directly center of the beam. Keep this in mind before securing the Unistrut to the beam. • Loosely attach the left side of the Unistrut with a 2.5” deck screw and required washers for spacing. Slide the 2 hoist brackets over the Unistrut and loosely attach a deck screw and washers to the right side. • Attach the hoist to the hoist brackets using included hardware. Slide the hoist into position so the cable is directly center of the hoist beam. • Add remaining 2.5” deck screws and washers and tighten. • Wrap the hoist beam at least 4 times in galvanized hanger strap - 2 on the right and 2 on the left of the hoist. Make sure the strapping is as tight as you can get it. Secure it using 2” deck screws. This is a minimum requirement as deck screw heads are only rated between 100 and 200 lbs each. Each wrap of the strapping is rated at 750 lbs each and makes an excellent backup. • Attach the hoist cable to the elevator eyebolt. The hoist recommended here was the 440/880 lb unit. To get the 880 lb capacity, double the cable and use the additional included pulley. You should be ready to test the elevator. Keep tension on the hoist cable at all times to keep it from unraveling. At this time, do NOT put anything on the elevator platform. Make sure that the elevator doesn’t bind at any point going up or down. Key areas to watch for are how smoothly the trollies pass by the butted ends of the Unistrut on each side. Also watch carefully (slowly) as the elevator platform passes the hole in the attic floor. Remember that if the Unistruts are not at the far ends of the right and left of the platform, the platform can shift (or slightly tilt) to the right or left. This is only about a quarter inch or so, but it does happen. The goal is to keep the elevator structure centered when it goes up and down, so keep any loads as centered as possible. At this point test the elevator with a load. While I can say that my wife and I have safely ridden our elevator, I cannot, for liability purposes, recommend that any human does this. While every effort has been made to over engineer for safety purposes, it is safe to say that most items on this design are well above the 880 lb capacity of the hoist. However, there are weak points. Don’t test the limit of the hoist. This design doesn’t include fall arrestors. While expensive, they are recommended for additional protection of anything valuable. Upper Limit Switch Activator • The hoist comes with an upper limit switch that will cut off the hoist when the upper limit switch lever is pressed. • Bring the elevator up to your attic/loft and make sure that the floor of the elevator is perfectly level with the loft floor. • Push the hoist limit switch lever until you hear a click (indicating the switch is active). While it’s at that point, measure the distance from the bottom of the top elevator beam to the limit switch lever. • Cut a 2x4 that distance and attach it to the back of the top elevator beam with 2.5” deck screws. • Test by raising the elevator and holding the “up” switch until the 2x4 activates the limit switch. Remote Control Installation • You’ll probably find that the included corded up/down switch on the hoist is probably not long enough for use. It either needs to be extended, which is easy using a length of 4 strand 18 gauge cord. However, it’s pretty easy to attach a wireless remote. • These instructions are specific to the use of this recommended remote. The remote must be AC capable (capable of being used with electricity) and capable of handling a 10 amp load. • First, you need to make sure that the remote receiver is in “Momentary” mode. It comes as “Toggled”. Toggled means that you press a button to start (or turn on) and the same button again to stop (turn off). I personally don’t think this is safe. Momentary means that the hoist only will operate so long as your thumb is pushing a button. So, push to start and release to stop. • To get this receiver in “Momentary” mode, you’ll have to remove the jumper completely from the circuit board. Remove the back of the receiver (4 screws). Pull out the circuit board. Find the jumper and pull it out - or just set it so it’s only on one pin. Then reassemble. • UNPLUG THE HOIST! • Cut the hoist remote cord to the length needed to reach where you will mount the wireless receiver. • Expose the 4 wires for attachment to the receiver. The 4 wires are black, white, blue and red. • Attach the blue and white together and attach them to the “Reverse” • Attach the red to the “Forward” • Attach the black to the “L” (I believe this is the “L”ive wire) • The only thing missing from the corded switch was the neutral. We need to get this from the power cord. Strip about a 4” section of the outer power cord where it can pass by the receiver. Be careful not to nick any of the 3 inner wires. • Expose a section big enough (about a half inch) of the white (neutral) and attach it to the “N” (neutral) on the receiver. • Plug in the power to the hoist. • This wireless unit comes with 2 receivers. Using this wiring, the up-arrow should propel the elevator up and the down-arrow, down. Test it without anything on the elevator. • I like to keep a remote on the elevator, using Velcro, etc. and one available on a shelf downstairs for remote operation. Enjoy - and be careful!

[@AlexR_44]

You should Pin your comment

[@mikeh7256]

@@AlexR_44 Not sure how to do that

[@AlexR_44]

@@mikeh7256 click the three dots to the right of the comment and choose pin. (must be logged in s yourself of course and you can only pin one comment per video I think)

[@ChrisBWG80]

Awesome video Mike. Looking to build this next weekend. Do you recall what gauge superstrut you used?

[@halfwolfable]

Built one fairly similar about 2 years ago and have been using it with a corded remote. That was a pain. Today I hooked it up to the wireless remote you recommended. It took about 15 minutes to have it working. I don't think I could have done it without your detailed wiring instructions. Thank you......

[@mikeh7256]

You're welcome. After using this for more than a year, I have found that the current wiring requiring you to hold the button down will cause your remote to use batteries pretty quickly. I am changing my wiring so I can use a single click to go up, a single click to stop, etc.

[@garyvelligan9267]

In planning a lift like this for my garage, I have watched at least 50 videos on the subject all of which were lacking in some way sufficient info to actually complete the job in total. Your video nailed down every aspect of fabrication in detail. Love the added bonus of the remote control and details on wiring it.Thanks again for taking the time to lay it all out. Gary

[@mikeh7256]

I made the video because I found the same thing you did. No details in any videos on actually completing the build and I didn't want to do any welding. Simpler the better. Thanks for commenting!

[@lp4815]

@@mikeh7256 Could you please point to info on the fall arrestors you mentioned...?

[@mikeh7256]

@@lp4815 The fall arresters are pointed out in the elevator guys video. I didn't use them on mine so I don't have any information

[@cleshe1]

We are building our last home. As you said, older folks need alternatives to brute strength. This IS the plan we will use. Perfect for her seasonal decoration bins and other items..awesome video!

[@mikeh7256]

Thanks 👍

[@craigcox1441]

If this guy is not a engineer he should be given an engineering degree this is the best I have ever seen well done

[@mikeh7256]

Thank you! Physics, computer science and 12 hours from my EE. Just a master tinkerer :-)

[@winstonsmith3685]

Really enjoyed the video. Lots of great information. One piece of friendly advice. You should be advising folks to use structural screws rather than deck screws. Deck screws do not handle shear forces very well. They will fatigue and break over time. Structural screws will only add about $30-40 to the cost of the build, and they will last a lifetime. Fantastic video!

[@mikeh7256]

You're correct! I've had deck screws sheer at the head and sometimes in the middle of the screw itself. (Not on this project, but it has happened.) Not into construction deep enough to have known there was a difference in screws. I only looked up the weight capacities and went from there. I wouldn't even know where to find structural screws at Home Depot. I went for the coated outdoor screws figuring they would be tougher than indoor screws.

[@somedudeRyan]

The spax t30 large head lag screws are great and come in many lengths

[@halflifeheroes6471]

Can't thank you enough for the details on the wireless remote! This was PERFECT for my home project. One note I thought I would add on here, you can wire everything like in the video, but ALSO wire back in the wired remote to the same wires and be able to use it along with the two wireless remotes. Total of 3 remotes (2 wireless and the original wired). Figured that could come in handy for someone else here or spare them from having to get a third wireless remote if they wanted a remote in several spaces.

[@handlesR4TrackingU]

Best instructional video on building a shop elevator hands down. Thank You.....

[@rh6761]

Dude - you k1lled it! I bought my gold superstruts (2, 20 ft pieces) from Grainger almost two years ago for around $60 each. I checked their website after watching this at they are over $300 each. It’s a crazy world we live in

[@mikeh7256]

Amen! The current political environment is destroying America.

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

10' super strut from Home Depot is $35, today, in March of 2023.

[@drophammer776]

​@TheScientistHayFarmer The gold super struts are $30 $40. Copper, and silver is %60 more expensive than two years ago. Adding a circuit, with the cost of conduit and %45 increase of wood, I will wait for the next president to start any big projects.

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

@@drophammer776 how disappointed you’ll be to learn this is beyond any president’s control.

[@yellowfish27]

You have made the most detailed video I have ever watched and even included instructions and parts list. You are the Boss.

[@youcanthide004]

Job well done, sir. Video as well. Tons of information love the step-by-step. I’ll be doing something similar with your plans. Thanks again.

[@mikeh7256]

@@youcanthide004 Best of luck! Thanks for commenting 🙂

[@hansbraun2726]

I’ve watched literally thousands of instructional videos and this is by far the most complete, concise and downright thoughtful that I have ever seen! Thank you

[@kkmullin]

Same here. THE BEST EVER!

[@TheScientistHayFarmer]

Nice presentation and explanation. It really needs structural construction screws instead of decking screws and the entire weight of the system is currently being supported by 8 decking screws that hold the 6 inch beam the lift is strapped to. Those really need jack studs under each end to support the weight.

[@SORTED.]

Excellent video. Thanks for sharing, I'll never have to put an elevator in my home, as I live in a Bungalow. But your video was enjoyable and informative to see how someone would tackle such a project. God bless.

[@patrickbiggar4259]

Thank you for the detailed remote control unit wiring and install. I have been looking for one... Just finished installing it... works like a charm. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@mikeh7256]

A word of caution. When you get a lot of weight on the elevator, releasing the down button doesn't immediately bring it to a stop. It slows it down until it comes to a point where it can stop. I know there's a wiring solution. I haven't figured it out yet.

[@iamdguy1]

Mike H. Thank you for the detailed plans and in particular the hot tip on the wireless remote. After looking at the remote base station and all of the additional connectors I've been able to add an "up" limit switch and a "Down" limit switch, both of which stop the motor when the platform is either at it's peak or the base (eliminates that whiplash concern). I am also working with the "Stop" connector that will allow me to have a safety door; if the door is open the unit won't work.

[@mikeh7256]

Are you able to attach a picture of how you wired the down limit switch?

[@iamdguy1]

@@mikeh7256 Here's a link to pics of my project...its a bit fancier than most as it is for the inside of my home photos.app.goo.gl/ioRgVYUoShfvu8aWA

[@mikeh7256]

@@iamdguy1 very nice!

[@AlexR_44]

@@iamdguy1 ah man, that's a nice setup👍 come finish mine, I hate finish work😅

[@douglasmorales9413]

Thank alot for this, very well explained, maybe in the future, you can upgrade for a DC motor (for electric issues) and add the emergency fall brake.

[@ll_spud]

Thanks alot for this. This is exactly what I will build in my 3 level home. I appreciate the thorough instructions

[@FOWLR235]

Have you started your project yet? I am also doing a three story home.

[@ll_spud]

​@@FOWLR235 Not yet. I'm still in the process of getting the existing house raised + build underneath until I will start my project. Probably next year

[@richsipe]

Awesome write up! Thanks for taking the time and doing such a detailed walk through.

[@mikeh7256]

Hope it was helpful

[@JayDee-xj9lu]

Very nice. I have looked at several videos of personal lifts and I can't believe that they don't go the extra trouble to fit a remote control. I will replace the cable with a single seatbelt type strap and run it one direction only but I will buy a stronger unit and also fit a one way ratchet. Thanks for giving me some great ideas.

[@unsopken0623]

Wowww thank you.. i can finally build for myself as I'm getting older.. its hard going up stairs.

[@jerryf609]

Nice plan and instructions. I thought of one improvement but might not be worth it. To stabilize left and right you could use 2 more unistruts oriented 90 degrees from the others. Add trolleys to travel like the others to keep it plumb left and right.

[@susanvaughn741]

I would mount a spring in the limit switch board so that it cannot crash with limit switch leaver. Very good!

[@stefanbuscaylet]

Same mistake on our eye bolt. My build is quite similar and the remote is a good improvement i am going to take on and thanks for the reference. Liked and subscribed. I did put the fall arrestors on mine as i do find myself a bit lazy on quick trips up and down the elevator to grab something. I also put a meter on mine so i could measure weight. BTW i have found the lift to be a super useful adjustable height work surface for projects and have also used it a time or two to unload heavy load from the bed of my pickup truck to ground level. Thanks for the video!

[@Growla]

I have seen many builds use them, but only one arrestor was used with a max rating of only 410# I don't see that as safe. Can you say what and how many fall arrestor(s)

[@philvale5724]

Hi 👋, I found this very helpful and interesting, as I have and live in Moulin/Mill in France , 4 floors, As I need to get logs from my basement to my lounge and attic, for my heating, great territorial, thank you very much appreciated, I think I might be starting this within the next week or so, just got to locate all the components, Phil from the moulin.

[@mikeh7256]

Good to hear from you Phil! Best of luck on your project.

[@philvale5724]

Hi 👋, thank you for the reply, I will definitely try, 😂, I was going to build a decking off the side of my property, Somewhere between four and 5 m up, and I was going to build a jib into it, that would swing out, so I could then lower a pulley down to pick up a basket of logs, or even my groceries, so I could then bring them up to my kitchen dining room, and lounge, The layout of my property is a bit strange, I’ve got a basement, then I’ve got my bedrooms bathrooms et cetera, and then I’ve got my lounge kitchen diner, then the attic, But because of certain circumstances , one being burgled, and losing some special cutting machines to cut through walls, and secondly, I’ve just had an ongoing battle with my ex, Great having to chat, stay safe I’ll try and tell you if I get it all sorted within the next month or so it might be a little bit longer, Phil from the moulin.

[@lightning4201]

Great Video x10. Very well detailed and explained.

[@mikeh7256]

@@lightning4201 Thanks so much!

[@bethanyhauf8826]

thank you!!!! perfect explanation and inspiration. This is gold!

[@Lemtech1]

Best video on this subject by far. Great job!

[@mikeh7256]

Thank you! It means a lot that you noticed the effort that went into this.

[@Lemtech1]

One addition I’m going to make on mine is a switch to the outlet to prevent kids or unintended operation.

[@mikeh7256]

@@Lemtech1 Great idea

[@famousamoso7]

Great explanation. Now I just need to build a barn so I can install this elevator in it. :D

[@keithanderson-r8w]

This big fan needs your expert opinion! I’m planning to install a small lift (22.5”x3’) to go between the trusses in the finished garage of the new home I’m moving to which a currently under construction. The existing studs to not align with where I need to install the super strut tracks. I’m considering two options to keep from having to tear out the painted drywall to install new studs: 1. Attach a 4x8 sheet of 3/4” plywood over the drywall into the existing studs and attach the super strut to the plywood, then use horizontal boards to the attic studs to complete the track. 2. Install horizontal 2x4s spaced every 12-16” over the drywall into the existing studs and attach the super strut to that. Would the plywood be substantial enough to support the super strut? Which option would you choose? Thanks!

[@mikeh7256]

I like the 2x4 solution. It's more substantial than the plywood. I would also consider taking out that extra section of ceiling joist to widen your hole going up. 22 inches is pretty tight and you never know what you're going to want to end up putting up there.

[@keithanderson-r8w]

@@mikeh7256 thanks for the quick reply! The elevator opening is basically the same size as the pull-down ladder opening and attic space is limited, but needed. Being a novice with a huge investment with this home I’m very hesitant to mess with the structural integrity of the trusses. Thanks very much!

[@miguelarizmendi5931]

gracias por el trabao muy interesante ...tratarè de hacer un elevador usando las ideas de UD....saludos desde Acapulco, México...¡

[@mikeh7256]

@@miguelarizmendi5931 have fun!

[@carlosrechegaray1136]

Excellent! I will follow this idea for an exterior elevator to reach my 2nd level house. Is there any way I can get full written instruction and equipment specs? Txs!!!!

[@mikeh7256]

It should be in my initial instructions. For added safety, use metal screws and consider safety straps

[@roberthigbee3260]

Upgrade your center lifting eye bolt to a "shoulder eye bolt". The shoulder is just under the eye. That way, the nut on the bottom has the shoulder to tighten against. The one you bought can't be tightened meaning that it will always be slack. How does this elevator stop at the lowest end of its travel? You should install a limit switch down there too. Lastly, and I'm sure everyone has been saying this, you need a hand rail on the sides and front. the front one could hinge at the floor and then fold down to make a handy ramp. The fold-up ramp should have a limit switch such that the elevator won't run unless the ramp is raised and latched into place. Even if this is just a freight elevator, you still should at least have a lip on the 3 exposed sides to prevent the load from shifting and sliding off.

[@mikeh7256]

Great ideas! On the lower limit switch, I haven't figured that one out yet. When going down and I press the stop manually, it simply slows down and then comes to a stop. It's not immediate like the one going up.

[@geomon956]

Great job explaining this in a step by step fashion!!!! Thanks for sharing so much. My only caution would be using deck screws for mounting the load bearing wood sections such as the 2x6 that the hoist is mounted to. Deck screws are not built for that purpose and their lack of shear strength could be a risk. I would think it would be better would be to use screws recommended for attaching joists or similar with better shear values.

[@mikeh7256]

You're probably right

[@wannabejeeper]

The ends of the double 2x6 should be supported by vertical 2x6. Much like the header in your doors and windows. You want to transfer the load down until it reaches the foundation.

[@rupe53]

other than typical safety concerns the main thing I noticed was lack of doubling up the 2x beams / joists where you cut the floor... .and lack of joist hangers on the cut beams, which have been required for decades now. Any time you cut a joist and transfer load, that next beam needs to be doubled up. You also need to support the floor all the way to the edge. Plywood edges without a 2x under it is asking for trouble.

[@mikeh7256]

Excellent comment on the joist doubling. I had no idea about that. The plywood however is supported by 2x

[@richardconley3343]

Awesome video... Thank you for posting it

[@mikehammer4546]

Excelant video, very comprehensive 👍👍

[@JorgeHernandez-ib1px]

What can you do if you don't have the additional hight for the the roller system to make it land even with the above floor? Great video! Thanks!

[@mikeh7256]

I'd create a loop over system and mount the winch lower

[@JorgeHernandez-ib1px]

Sorry I'm not two mechanically inclined when it comes to these type of adjustments. Maybe you can give me additional information or it might be a great idea for an update video when space is an issue. Thanks for answering my question, I find your videos very interesting and informative thank you so much!

[@Homefree18]

I have the exact system you have but they changed the color code on the remote wires, it would be nice to know the wire color code on the motor. The newer version has Red,Black,White & Brown thanks for the cool setup idea, now to just get mine to work 😊!!

[@mikeh7256]

In the end, I hired an electrician to figure out the wiring scheme. Worth it. I was afraid I was going to ruin it.

[@Homefree18]

@@mikeh7256 👍 I’ve tried using the brown on mine in place of your blue wire but that didn’t work. I’ve found the schematic online but that doesn’t give the wire color codes. I’ll get it to work eventually and then add the color codes I’ve came up with when done, it may help others. Thanks 👍

[@waderambo460]

Any luck yet? Mine is doing the same

[@Homefree18]

@@waderambo460 I actually got better information off this video. It was all a help but with the wire color codes this one made more sense to me. I did get mine working after buying the relays, I also bought a plastic box to put it all in. kzbin.info/www/bejne/omSWYYluoNGegrcsi=LMFhflKyxN6h6gs5

[@Homefree18]

@@waderambo460 this wiring made more sense to me. kzbin.info/www/bejne/omSWYYluoNGegrcsi=J28Jox0izpI2ShDs

[@Hog-g2z]

Hi Very Interesting, I thought I had left a message or comment, I am thinking of building something similar,

[@Growla]

Really well done. Thank you.

[@raunhamilton9638]

Well done video and built one very similar just a bit smaller. But I can't get the remote to work both ways, just down. I've followed the learning button process to the "T" (several times) but still just one way. AND, with the two remotes, once I program one, it forgets the other (it stops working). I wired the motor exactly as you have here, as mine is the same winch. Anyone have insight on this?

[@gfoust69]

Thank you for the detail, just an FYI, there are not 5/16 nuts in the parts list.

[@mikeh7256]

Thanks for the heads up

[@jumeDIY]

Thanks for sharing

[@wrenchaholic_]

14.54 the red puck is there to press against the switch to stop the winch.

[@jcardisco1]

Great Video Mike. What video editing software do you use for your chapter changes, overlays of arrows, and video clipping? Thanks in advance!

[@mikeh7256]

Wondershare Filmora Great software

[@mikeposey235]

Enjoyed, like your work!

[@scottphillips1210]

Unstructured is kinda expensive. Being said as it's not needed for strength. The hoist is your strengh.why not use garage door channel and wheels? Also I would use lag screws everywhere but in those unistruts.

[@Maxxamum]

I have the same remote that I got from Lazada here in Thailand. Made in China for sure. It cost me about $28. My winch is 220v and runs with a capacitor. My question is how to wire in the capacitor which is enclosed in the handheld control.

[@jamescecil4629]

What is your center dimension on yer rails

[@mikeh7256]

I'll have to go look at what mine is exactly. The concept is that you can do this with about any size opening. Your opening will determine how far apart your rails are going to be. My rule of thumb is to find the center and then split the distance between the center and the edge on both sides.

[@gordo3582]

Thanks for making this!

[@jmacgarage117]

Awesome video plan to do this soon

[@mikeh7256]

Okay guys! I just changed my lift from momentary toggled. I simply put the jumper back in its factory position. I like it because I go through less batteries and there is a safety factor to that. It does have a quirk that you need to be aware of. When you run the elevator to the top and it stops automatically, then when you want to go down and you press the down button, the elevator starts to slowly go or even at a slow rate of fall. (Slower than) At that point, you simply press the up button one time and it will begin to fall at a normal rate. Let me be clear that the normal rate is faster than the slow fall I mentioned earlier. But it is weird. Note that if you stop the elevator before the automatic stop when going up, then when you press the down button it reacts normally without the slow fall. If you want to know specifically what jumper I'm talking about, go to about the 16 minute mark in the video. The pins show LS and T. I put the jumper over the S and T.😊

[@yanivnevechen]

Phenomenal vid!!!

[@ThomasDuncan-e3w]

I have watched this video a lot and have built my own lift into the storage room above the garage. Unfortunately, I can't get the wireless remote to work. The only difference between yours and mine is that I bought a Pittsburgh hoist that can handle 2000lb. I wired it exactly the same but it just makes a loud noise when I push the up and down button. Looking for any suggestions I can get.

[@mikeh7256]

Initially, I had to give up on the wiring so I broke down and hired an electrician to help so I didn't burn down the house. My wife would have never forgiven me! Lol Sounds like you're at that point...

[@FOWLR235]

I am going to use something similar to this on my three-story home, so I definitely do not want to fall over 18 feet. A fall arrester is definitely what I’m going to use, any other recommendations.?

[@mikeh7256]

Yes. I made mention and gave credit to someone early in the video. Look him up and he shows which arrestor and how he installed it and even testing.

[@fitter70]

Nice build but by your own words you said don't cut corners. Spring for a fall arrestor. How much is your family's safety worth?

[@substation996]

The eyebolt holds 3000lbs but the wood around the hole would be a weak point. Stay safe. I'm riding on mine.

[@mikeh7256]

So am I. Be safe and watch the condition of the cable.

[@jdunc1442]

I wired my remote up the same as yours in the video and it will go up but not down. Any thoughts? Mine wrench has the same colored wires yours does in the video.

[@ShaneShepherd]

Ha! Mine goes down - to, not up!

[@peteoquist215]

I am unable to get the remotes working. The only difference in the remote I ordered and the one in Mike's video is that I did not have a RED wire but had a Brown wire instead. Did anyone have to program the remotes?? I noted there is a "Learn" button the wireless receiver. Thanx, Pete

[@mikeh7256]

@@peteoquist215 You shouldn't have to program the remote. If worst comes to worse, I would reach out to an electrician. Is there a way on your remote to verify whether it is receiving a signal? A green light when you press a button at the wired side, etc

[@chrisholt6136]

Help! I am planning my build like this but the only way I can mount the unistrut is on inside of 2 4x4 steel posts. So the channels of the unistrut would be facing each other. Will that still work?

[@mikeh7256]

What I would do is to take some wood and attach that to the steel posts and then attach the unistruts facing forward to those wood pieces. That will get to you exactly what I built

[@chrisholt6136]

I am looking at the 2200lb Vevor on amazon. The wired remote is different from the harbor freight in video. Any clue if wireless remote kit still work?

[@mikeh7256]

I would guess that it would. If you think about it, all lifts have the same kind of wiring

[@chrisholt6136]

@@mikeh7256 the wired remote on vevor is yellow black white and aqua. Any clue which is which

[@mikeh7256]

@@chrisholt6136 no, but a quick call to the vendor might help. Also, you might check online for some manuals for the unit. A lot of times it will tell you what wire does what

[@somedudeRyan]

I like the remote control part

[@mikeh7256]

You have no idea how nice that is. One alteration from the video is that I switched it back to the factory settings so that you press it once to make it go up without having to hold it down. Saves batteries.

[@somedudeRyan]

@@mikeh7256cool. I was thinking you could wire the original in parallel in case of a lost remote or dead battery

[@TheBobWood]

Thanks Mike. You've been a big help for me. I am still having to use the switch cord. My wires are a complete different color code. I have same little box & remote that you have but I have not yet figured out the M or module colors for F & R. Is there a way I can check voltage?

[@mikeh7256]

It's been a minute... I'm sorry to say, but I don't know. I'd have to dig into it again. I'll let you know. I wanted to change something anyway.

[@Bruce.Walker]

Nicely done. I have a question about cutting the hole in the floor. Did you brace the joists from the garage floor before cutting them? Surely the attic floor didn’t hold the joist up.

[@mikemm03]

I've built my own lift. How do you keep the wire rope from jumping over itself and jerking when going up?

[@mikeh7256]

That, my friend, is an excellent question! What you need to do is make sure that the wire is rolled up neatly. To do that, you will need to let your lift all the way down and just keep coming for a little bit and then stop. Now, start the wind-up process again with tension on the wire so that it neatly wraps around the spool. Once you do this, there won't be any jumping around. Further, we have gotten used to stopping the lift a few inches before it hits the floor so this doesn't happen again. That is the cause.

[@mikemm03]

Thank you for the reply. I have done both things you mentioned. I'll agree, stopping before touchdown on the floor is the best possible solution. But that's a guessing game. It seems to work fine for several times and then the issue returns. Probably needs a lower stop switch but I'm not sure how to put that into the system.

[@mikeh7256]

@@mikemm03 if you figure out how to put the stop switch at the bottom, let me know!

[@mikemm03]

@@mikeh7256 also wondering if less rope would help. These things have 40 foot. 20 foot would be ample for my needs, only lifting 8 feet.

[@mikeh7256]

@@mikemm03 That would be a great idea. I'm just not sure how to shorten it. I've never let it out all the way.

[@RCAVEMANS]

Any idea why the down button does not stop the wench when the button is released? Up works fine when the button is released.

[@mikeh7256]

Wiring issue. With my particular unit, it is a jumper

[@RCAVEMANS]

@@mikeh7256 I removed the jumper on my unit. Should I put it back on?

[@mikeh7256]

I think it's all about momentum. I get the same thing where I'm going down and I let off the button and it takes a second, but it does stop. I'm changing mine so that I have to press a button to make it stop

[@weeeves]

You should really be using through-bolts on the hoist mount (unistrut to header beam). I don't know if would ever trust four 2-1/2" deck screws to suspend me precariously 10 ft in the air.

[@chrisholt6136]

OK I have a question. Where I want to build this, the unistrut needs to be on the inside of a 4inch steal beam. So instead of the channel of the unistrut facing out to platform, they will face inward facing each other. Is that ok?

[@mikeh7256]

The trick is going to be stabilizing the platform with distribution of weight. Better plan carefully.

[@chrisgriffiths2533]

I would use Steel Braces ( Flat Bar ) instead of Aluminium. But Impressive Build, Well Done.

[@mikeh7256]

I'm assuming you're talking about the rail I used to hold the hoist? Using the aluminum rails for support, it ends up being a piece of scrap and the hoist just happens to almost custom fit in there.

[@chrisgriffiths2533]

@@mikeh7256 No, 2 Aluminium Diagonal Flat Bars, Bracing from the Floor to the Back of Lift. I would use Steel.

[@garyjones7370]

Your supports should go under the top brace / channel to take the load

[@mikeh7256]

I'm guessing you're talking about the hoist beam. It's definitely secure against the build-out mounts, but you are correct that it would be even more secure if I put a 12-in 2x2 on the front or even found a thicker build out and notched it. The elevator is only rated for about 800 lb and the current mounting will support more than that.

[@waderambo460]

Purchased the same wireless remote and when plugged in the motor beeps and hums? My motor from HF does not have the blue wire but it is a light brown. All other colors are the same

[@JohnnieBravo1]

Mike; Question. Where did you put the 16-20 uF capacitor for starting the hoist motor?? Did you just delete it, or is it somewhere else? I'm doing the same mod to my ATV stacker.

[@mikeh7256]

I assume you're talking about the jumper pin. Originally, I moved the pin from the factory position to get momentary reaction. Later I found out that it ate batteries pretty quickly. Recently, I put the pin back in the factory position so that it was toggled. Just leave it in the toggle position. Read my comments that I posted a month ago. It's very important on the downward momentum. Especially with heavier loads, the downward motion doesn't stop immediately, but comes to a stop. Go to about 16:20 in the video.

[@JohnnieBravo1]

@@mikeh7256 hey Mike, thanks for your reply. I was talking about the large motor start capacitor that is in the handle of the hand controller. It takes up most of the volume of the controller. Other remotes I have looked at use large high voltage high current AC relays to do the motor supply voltage switching, and the wireless remote controller to supply the trigger voltage to the relays. They installed the large start capacitor at the relays up next to the motor. My setup may be different from yours, I'm not sure.

[@mikeh7256]

@@JohnnieBravo1 Gotcha. So I simply removed the cord and attached the remote wiring. Nothing else to do.

[@Homefree18]

@@JohnnieBravo1some hoists have the capacitor in the remote handle mine and Mikes has it in the black box attached to the motor. Depends on what hoist you bought, I believe they are built different.

[@JackTLai]

Hi Mike, thanks for the instructions. My hoist (440lb Pittsburg) has a tan wire instead of a red one. I've wired it as per your instructions but used the tan wire in place of the red one. The Up and down arrow of the remote controls the lift going down only. In hindsight I should have gotten the 880lb hoist to match your setup. Do you happen to know the wire configuration with the tan wire?

[@mikeh7256]

I'm sorry, I don't. It took me a minute to figure out the 880 hoist. If you're doing that elevator at all, you really need to get the 880. With the 440, you put a single person and just the weight of the elevator itself and you might be getting close to limits. For the cost difference, what would you pay for safety?

[@ShaneShepherd]

Mine does the same! Did you figure it out?

[@harrisonsardina8584]

Mike, I have a vevor electric hoist. You wouldn’t happen to know the wiring colors for the remote unit it is different than the harbor, freight winch hoist thank you.

[@mikeh7256]

No, I'm sorry I wouldn't. This was the first wiring I've ever done for an elevator.

[@harrisonsardina8584]

Thank you for your reply Mike

[@LIVETVISION]

hey any way you could show the hoist wiring so i know what cable going into the wireless unit does and where they come from? my four wires are different colors. thanks

[@LIVETVISION]

my four cables are black, white, green and yellow.

[@mikeh7256]

I can only show what I bought and was able to figure out. I ended up sitting down next to the unit, attaching some wires and testing. That's probably my best recommendation to you. Best of luck!

[@LIVETVISION]

@@mikeh7256ok thanks is it possible to get a picture of the wires in the black box attached to your hoist?

[@susanvaughn741]

I wonder how many time you had to build this? The lifting I bolt should be welded so it cannot open up when over stressed!

[@peterthomas6566]

Great Video and some good detail points! I just wish that this was going to be as easy for me, unfortunately I need to cut a hole through 8" of reinforced to concrete 🙂first .......

[@mikeh7256]

WOW....

[@scottcaldarera9367]

You removed the capacitor from the control system completely and had no issues?

[@Bullochman]

I had issues when removing the capacitor it just makes a buzzing noise when I plug it in

[@RichardGlassford]

where can i get the wireless motor and winch

[@mikeh7256]

@@RichardGlassford Harbor Freight for the winch. Amazon for the remote.

[@TheBobWood]

Thanks for the video. I am building one also but I'm a little concerned with the stop at the bottom. Do you have an auto-switch to stop at bottom. I am concerned with back lash on the cable or is that not a problem.

[@mikeh7256]

Okay so you won't have any backlash problem going down because I haven't figured out how to connect the remote switch to the downward lock. What happens essentially is that when you let off of the down switch, the elevator continues down for a couple of inches before stopping and locking. With increased weight in the 4 to 500 lb range, a couple of inches becomes maybe five inches before it stops. It's like a super slow stop. Something to keep in mind and something I need help on to figure out how to automatically immediately lock when you let off the switch going down. That is a remote wiring issue. The upswitch is no problem. When you let off, it immediately locks.

[@Growla]

@@mikeh7256 Is this slowdown issue going going down when using the remote present when using the wired pendent that came with the hoist?

[@mikeh7256]

@@Growla No it's not. There is no backlash problem at all. The unit just slows down quickly and stops within a few inches. It's just not an immediate stop like you would want or expect.

[@liveworkplayvans]

Awesome video. Do you happen to have a transcription?

[@mikeh7256]

Yes, if you look at the description of the video, it lays out all of the parts and the instructions

[@liveworkplayvans]

@@mikeh7256 I created a more useful doc. I will be glad to send to you. It is a spreadsheet. Complete transcription with steps you can print.

[@mikeh7256]

Sounds good. [e-mail]

[@liveworkplayvans]

Sent it. I hope it is useful.

[@tipep1]

Why does the hoist beam need to be 29’’ above the top of the uprights on the platform? Can it be lower?

[@JC-pz3ds]

Wow Mike thank you so much for this very helpful video! One question - after cutting off the wired "remote" (that came attached to the winch) how did you determine how to hook up the four wires to the wireless remote board? Is a wiring diagram available somewhere? Reason I ask is that my winch came with different colored wires than yours did - so just not sure which wires to connect to which terminals - please let me know, thanks again very much!

[@TheBobWood]

Mine came this way as well. I believe it's yellow, black, light blue & white

[@AlexR_44]

@@TheBobWood I'm not telling you what to do, but if I were you, I'd take the remote apart and see which wire go to which buttons.

[@pravinpawar6271]

Hi it's really awesome but I have this remote control wiring please send me circuit diagram

[@anthonymarino4260]

great directions thanks

[@mikemm03]

Can you tell me how well the remote works through a wall?

[@mikeh7256]

Nope. Never tried.

[@mikemm03]

@@mikeh7256 Gotcha, but it works through the floor when the lift is raised?

[@mikeh7256]

@@mikemm03 yes

[@DanG4n6guy]

what size super strut 12 gage?

[@mikeh7256]

Truthfully, I don't remember. I did put the shopping list and the comments. That should give you what you need

[@controlfreq9346]

For the up stop limit, why didn't you use the included red bumper on the cable by the hook? Really nice work and detailed explanation especially with the remote addition. 👍

[@mikeh7256]

Honestly, I had no idea that you could move that thing around and that the hoist would obey! Lol

[@jpalmtree5549]

Want to do this for a bed how is it modified to do that

[@mikeh7256]

@@jpalmtree5549 I would add either a third rail or better support underneath and just spread the two existing rails. You could probably do a twin or queen.

[@jpalmtree5549]

@@mikeh7256 thanks for your info

[@alimuztoba]

Thanks for detail plan Can you post your shopping list

[@mikeh7256]

It was in my original post

[@mikeh7256]

At 1:27, you'll see the list in the video. Hope this helps

[@greggshreve3716]

@@mikeh7256

[@david-tracy]

👍🏼 nice

[@larryyoung7265]

Can I ask where you got the remote module? This is exactly what I need for my build!

[@mikeh7256]

Amazon

[@karlazzopardi9914]

Have you removed the capacitor from the wired remote ?

[@mikeh7256]

No

[@dotumdo-7495]

love love ...

[@williammessenger9637]

"Perfectly perpendicular up and down level" A.K.A. Plumb

[@mikeh7256]

Lol - Well crud! My secret is out! I'm not an expert. But, so easy, even a novice like me can do it. Thanks for your comment!

[@TheTlagnhoj]

I don't even know where to begin... There SO many details in this design that can lead to failure it is amazing you have not yet been sued! From improperly securing the cut joists, to the use of deck screws and eye bolts, this is a tragedy waiting to happen! Great build if your safety is worth less than Strong-Ties, construction screws and forged eye bolts. MOST of the build would be made safer with the proper hardware. Although some of the construction techniques are a little off. Sure, this build can be done safely with PROPER construction techniques which are lacking in this video. And MOST importantly!!! NOTHING should EVER be raised from the floor on a lift like this without some form of brake or arrester!!! NEVER!!!

[@vaughnbrady1060]

Warning the Bearings from Uni strut are rated at only 100 lbs each. Be real careful to keep loads to the wall side of they are over 200 lbs and are put on the front (away from the wall) on the lift platfome you could have a failure.....

[@MichaelVogel-ls3ci]

Why do you use such long screws on the trucks?

[@mikeh7256]

I assume you're talking about the trolleys? I don't see any trucks as you mentioned. The length of the bolts I used in the trolleys was based upon the thickness of the trolley plus the 2x4 plus and allowance for the nut and washer.

[@MichaelVogel-ls3ci]

@@mikeh7256 Thanks, yes, i meant trollies. Bolts just seemed to have a lot of extra length in the video and i just wanted to make sure i didn’t miss something else bolting on.

[@mikeh7256]

Just make sure the boat is long enough to go through whatever wood you're using. The bolt I selected is longer than what I needed.

[@vaughnbrady1060]

Be careful to keep loads to the wall side. If the loads are over 200 lbs you could have a FAILURE>

[@drewkoerick6122]

Love it until the strapping at the top. Does the job but is the only part of your build that doesn't look well thought out.