DIY Heavily Crackled Shou-Sugi-Ban Charred Cedar Planks Burnt Wood Burning

Love Of The Grain Workshop here agin with an all new DIY Shou-Sugi-Ban charred cedar plank video. I used locally sourced NC cedar wood. Thank you for watching, liking, Commenting, sharing & remember to subscribe. Please contact me for a custom order. I design and make one of a kind furniture, art, decor, cutting/charcuterie boards & more. Find me on Facebook, Instagram & Etsy as well.

[@jahpedro3971]

The mix I've been using on indoor projects is a blend of olive oil, Danish oil, and bee's wax, heated until the wax is melted wiped on with a cloth and buffed to a nice sheen, great video

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Jah Pedro thats awesome. Thanks

[@samberrigan184]

Do you know of a good mix for outdoor projects?

[@jahpedro3971]

@@samberrigan184 same mix without the beeswax ,

[@dianachern4234]

Does it leave the stain, scratches?

[@rich7331]

I've been testing finishes for a large bed frame and found a good quality generally use epoxy works incredible! and it gives a very natural look if you do it properly. put a thick layer of epoxy on, let it soak in for 10-15 minutes (The chard would will absorb a lot) and then wipe off extra with a brush, then dab off extra with a towel, it will give you a very natural and extremely hard and durable finish.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Great idea!

[@MrKevinkj2002]

That's the way the Japanese ment for it be. I hate when people wire brush off the char and stain or dye it. Good job! I am doing a custom fish tank stand with cedar tounge and groove with the traditional Shou Dugi ban finish.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks very much. You are truly correct. I like the crackle look better. But to each his own.

[@MrKevinkj2002]

@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 only thing it actually called YAKISUGI, Western countries miss translation is SHO SUGI BAN

[@tro8191]

So I watched ur first video years ago and loved the look so I started doing many of my projects with the technique. Then I researched more n learned that the true Japanese style is called Sakiyugi and involves using the wood as a chimney when burning. Apparently those who know the art well sorta laugh at us westerners calling it Shou Sugi ban. Anyway there’s some great videos on the true style very interesting to check out! Thanks for the great vid!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Yep Yakisugi is what I’ve heard. And yes many have called me out of shosugiban. Lol. I love it and thanks for watching!

[@joydavis4087]

I have been looking into Shou-Sugi-Ban as a wood preservation for above ground raised beds for organic gardening. Watching your process is helpful. Thank you. However, staying organic, I would be using just linseed oil. Also, I don’t have access to large quantities of cedar, red wood or black locust, so I will have to use what I can -douglas fir maybe. Thanks for the vid. ❤ It’ll be an experiment.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Douglas fir would definitely work. And I have used it for the same reason in a garden box on my deck and it has withstood a few years so far weather and watering the plants.

[@38psiGoodbye]

Pro tip: when applying the poly/oils let brush soak up till full then do one long brush stroke at a time pushing harder down as you get closer to the end for an even layer. This will eliminate visible brush strokes and be a much smoother cleaner look. Very cool charred finish I’d love to try a heavy char like this on a future project. Very informative! Keep up the good work!!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

38psiGoodbye thanks very much! Yeah with the 50/50 mix its pretty thin and doesn’t get any brush strokes. But thats a great tip. Check out my latest shou sugi ban project i just posted

[@jjfordingpoursoulstudios8581]

Awesome job! Love the heavy char. Going to be making a table with this method + a resin river in the middle of the table top. Thanks for sharing!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

JJ Fording PourSoulStudios thanks very much! Check out my latest Shou Sugi Ban project with tinted epoxy resin!

[@SaucyTreasures]

That sounds like a cool idea! Please post pictures, would love to see how it turns out!

[@mutilettie]

Heavy char plus epoxy will work and look good.

[@SecondComingTwice]

"The video" seems fine to me, but I'm not a film critic. I'm working with a piece of construction-grade white-wood burned and scraped. Decided to play with the grain and the knots and use a variety of colors with home-made water-based stain and some artist watercolor pencils and topping it with spar varnish. Pretty awesome so far, if I do say so myself.. The map-gas is a fine idea. Keep creating.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

SecondComingTwice thanks very much! Yeah this is fun and can be done many different ways. Though some people nitpick it due to the wood, the technique and the finishing. I experiment with it. And I use it for decorative purposes so who cares. It’s art as well as function.

[@chanhcn2000]

Thanks a lot for your artistic idea. This is a missing piece of my project that I have been longer looking !

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Fantastic! Thanks so much.

[@alejandroluispaolucci9071]

Fantastic job, thanks…

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thank you!

[@hancockfamilyhancockfamily4997]

Thank you for taking the time to make this video... I'm going to do this... The intention I have it to make a heavy looking minimalist wood mantle for a carrerra marble slab fireplace (adding a gorgeous look with texture and weight to that super plain modern but sleek and elegant fireplace.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Familia Hancock awesome! Send me some pics on Instagram or Facebook

[@dyvel]

"I don't like the plastic coating, so now I'm going with a mixture of 50% polyurethane"? Why not pure boiled linseed oil and get rid of the plastic altogether? I'd prefer completely natural, and something that's not foreign to where I'm from. Why not applying oil while the wood is still hot, as I've seen some do? And finally - how little oil can you get away with applying while still ensuringto protect the integrity of the wood and not risking getting soot stains on whatever comes into contact with it? By the way, the crackled surface structure that you managed to produce is the best I've seen so far. Well done!

[@dyvel]

And just to clarify, if it isn't obvious - I have no experience with this area at all. I'm just letting my thoughts out to remedy my ignorance and to satisfy my curiousness :)

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Sure you could absolutely use a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil etc. I haven’t tried applying while still hot. Thanks

[@xmasfolly]

i love your attitude... that's a beautiful product. i am so addicted to brushing finishes, sanding down the ridges then staining them (wiping) which creates 3 colors. i think i will try this for an exterior finish. i will look for an update video, but would love to see the results. i live in cold winters. the wood sees alot of wear and tear. Do you consider Pine a reliable siding for cold winters if sugi ban? I've never tried it, only cedar, i heard you mention it in the video.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

DIY Shou-sugi-ban Wood Burning Torching Technique on Pine kzbin.info/www/bejne/p5fHh2NpZq6SfJI check this video. As far as pine. Charring it this way works great at protecting wood. But for exterior use cedar is going to hold up much better. And if your using it for siding you would want to leave that heavy alligator char. Removing some of it can expose the fresh wood underneath defeating the purpose of the char which is to add to its longevity.

[@resilientfarmsanddesignstu1702]

Nice but I quench with copious amounts of cold water. 40 F or colder is best. Garden hose works. Snow melt ideal.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely!

[@muppelmuh1445]

I tried the burning once to create a compost bin. I didn't want to use chemical protection because the compost is humus that go to veggies that I eat, that's how I found Shu sugi ban. I used the cheapest abies (fir tree?) planks, they were still green and freshly cut. I could watch them getting attacked by fungus by the day before I got around to burn them and to build the compost bin. So far 3 years and counting the compost bin doesn't rot but the organic material inside does. Always humid and always surrounded by microorganisms the bin stays unaffected. I think it's an outstanding result, and I didn't even oil the wood. But here is my question: when doing it with abies all the nice black burned cracked easily rubbed off. You touch the material and you have black hands. Is the rubbing off of charcoal the part nobody talks about or does it not happen if you use the right wood? In this video you used the cedar that's used by the Japanese, does the black charcoal stay hard and won't come off? (Personally I would not want to use epoxy. The whole appeal of this to me is conservation of wood without chemical goo, it's ecologically sound.) So, does the charred part rub off even with cedar? Have you tried a comparison of different conifers? Cedar might be hard to get hold of where I live. (I read that you have to use conifers with resin as the heating of the resin inside contributes to the effect of conservation). Thanks for this interesting video!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Muppel Muh hey good for you! I have used cedar and various pine wood for this effect. As far as the charr rubbing off. It doesn’t matter which wood. It will all do it. For garden I would use a natural oil to seal it like boiled linseed or tongue. That way you don’t have harmful items in the garden.

[@kimforan6478]

wow that looks amazing - I'm so excited to try it. Thanks..

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks so much.

[@mmminc4937]

STUNNING LOOK BUDDY I STARTED WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS FROM YESTERDAY . AND N HAVE MADE MY SON SOME FURNITURE FOR HIS ROOM USING THIS SHOU SUGI BAN TECHNIQUE, WITHOUT KNOWING THAT THIS WAS AN ANCIENT JAPANESE TECHNIQUE. BUT I AM NOW EVEN MORE PROUDER OF MY HANDICRAFT THAN EVER .KEEP IT UP AND WELL DONE .NEEDLESS TO SAY I HAVE SUBSCRIBE IMMEDIATELY AFTER YOUR YOUR FIRST VIDEO .

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

MARTIN MATHEE yep been around a long time!

[@artheis1342]

Your product is incredibly beautiful finishes.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thank you so much

[@anahitanazari3459]

Awesome Job Love the Natural Burn all Black , I willHire you to make and enclosure for my Chimney

[@jeffreygraham4058]

I bet if you made a solid cedar table like this but with a two-part epoxy coat it would really POP really nice but I honestly didn't think that it would turn out as good as it did great job

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Yes!!!! Thanks so much!

[@zimt2863]

Thank you sir ....I have found a new love this is wonderful....sorry I am late to the party wow I love it!!!

[@user-zs1sj6nc2z]

Excellent videos, I do have a question for you: When you char only one side how do you prevent the wood from bowing or warping? It doesn't seem to be a problem for you, but it seems like it would be? Thanks

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Char quickly and cool it down quickly. Or burn the other side as well. It won’t be perfect for sure. But for siding or a fence it doesn’t really matter too much if it’s slightly cupped. But slightly only. Some pieces definitely cup more than others as well.

[@robertduley5446]

That wood be awesome as wine rack

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely!

[@BernRex]

id like it if i wanted black. but that cedar is so nice its almost a sin to hide it. but its a style choice. after its burned will cedar still give off that great aroma?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Bern any side that’s not charred will.

[@saskiaeveringham7167]

could you do this to a cedar house already built? we had it stained 20 years ago but nothing since. it would be great if it could create fire resistance too

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Hmmm! When it’s done for siding it’s burnt prior to adding it to the house. I would recommend against it. Don’t want to burn your home down. Can you take them off and burn then reinstall?

[@18Bees]

Very nice. I applied this technique to my beehives.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Awesome!

[@CP3919]

Thank you, this was really helpful. I have a medium-sized project and was wondering if a larger brush-burning torch would be effective and recommended? Or would you say it takes this concentrated flame to create the gator skin look?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Yes absolutely. This is what I would recommend for larger applications.

[@cristielittle2355]

Thanks for an informative video

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely thanks for the kind words

[@RiverPlaid]

Beautiful, I am excited to try it.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Denise D Rivers alright!!

[@edgar-j6h]

Great job ❤

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks

[@barbarahenn-pander5872]

I adore this look and also value the natural wood feel of Danish oil. I’m wondering about doing this on some fir plywood. I want a beautiful, deeply crackled shou sugi panel to hang as an art piece in a high traffic area (nothing too delicate!). If you’ve done any of this on plywood, or think it’s a bad idea, I’d love to know. Wonderful video. Thank you!!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

I have tried it on a piece. But it tends to release the glue holding it together.

[@mitch5077]

Love the birdies

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Mitch Muerle right!

[@kylecorrales9962]

So my questions are... Do you scrape it if you go full alligator? Of you do a normal burn you're supposed to hit it with a wire or firm nylon brush and then seal it if you like. So with this style do you scrape it? Does it flake off and make a mess if you do this without scrapping? Is it longer lasting to do the alligator vice a more moderate burn?

[@kylecorrales9962]

I'm looking at doing a more normal burning for a log cabin I'm going to build to help weather proof it which is why I ask. I'll probably do this to varying degrees of burn with different stains for appearance on everything from the logs to the deck and floors etc

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Kyle Corrales kyle to get a heavy crackled finish you do NOT scrape it. If you do not scrape it, it can rub off if not sealed correctly. Seal with poly or lacquer and lots of coats to protect it.

[@valdemirohass]

Beautiful work

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Valdemiro Hass thank you

[@Norbingel]

I'm surprised at how little soot/char comes off while you're brushing it at the end. I was thinking of how to manage doing a finish without brushing off the char that a lot of people do. I thought that just applying the finish without doing that first would result in soot getting smeared all over the place and messing up the finish.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

It takes gentle hands is all.

[@bymitten1]

I'm new to this burning technique but I really love it. I like the look of the wood when it's burned and then scrapped ... has all the peaks and valleys look. But I also like the complete chard look. I'm in the process of trying to have the best of both worlds .... Char it, scrape it. Then char again. I've never seen this done ... maybe because it doesn't work. lol Have you ever tried this or seen this technique before? Awesome video btw. I loved the slow motion charing. Very satisfying to watch. 👍

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

bymitten1 thanks very much for the comments and questions! As far as brushing then burning heavily again. You can. But typically when charred heavily the wood bubbles and raises. Which creates the heavy textured crack. So it might not work. But if not you can always sand and redo. I would say if you brush it. Char it just until you see the begging of crackle then stop. That way the embossed lines don’t change to much.

[@randyturner2983]

I've done the double burn before and it turned out great on redwood. Deep alligator burn, scrub off char, then deep alligator burn again, scrub off and rinse. This leaves deep grooves in the wood as the softwood between the rings burns away. Creates a great texture. 'Peaks and valleys' look is right!

[@bymitten1]

Very cool! Thanks for the tips. :) I tried a double-burn on a sample piece of pine I had. Didn't have any added effect except the piece was considerably thinner after. I'm sure all woods have their own effect.

[@jamesbuchanan6099]

Great video. Love doing something different like this. Keep the videos coming.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

James Buchanan thanks. I have been delayed in making videos. But really need to get going.

[@sergiobotelhosantos6991]

Muito bonito este trabalho. Parabéns!!!👏👏👏👏👏👏

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks

[@patrickdunn8918]

I’ve been doing a bunch of experiments with it, but on pine only so far. I like the colored stuff, but it’s all personal preference. That just looks like a piece of burned wood to me, but that’s the good part about this process, we can all burn to taste.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely my latest video shows the different charrs.

[@yanasolare5147]

Thanks for the video! It is very inspiring. Now I want to do such table myself. Very cool look, I like it 😃

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Yana Solare thanks. Have fun

[@andersonvic76]

Beautiful technique, I can't wait to play around with it!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Vicky Anderson thanks

[@prapra15777]

Thinking of doing this alligator style for my exterior steps. In your opinion would the alligator style be less durable then if I wire brushed it first? It seems to me that the chunks of the alligator style would likely to chip off after some usage... I was going to put several coats of spar urethane on no matter what... thanks

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Great question for steps. Definitely scrape first.

[@dianachern4234]

Is it strong finish, is it durable or easy to damage/scratch? Would like the review of finish product

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Very durable finish when applied according to the directions.

[@gabrielaligenza5623]

Hi, is it possible to char the wood already fixed as a wall? It’s a pine cladding if a small cabin. Without burning the house down …

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely NOT! It is most likely sealed with a finish that is toxic and flammable. Do not! It needs to be removed, planed down and then burned before reinstalling.

[@bjmgraphics617]

Is the top layer ever became brittle and crumble over time? It looked like fire damage from a burning home but it's only a transformation stop short from turning to charcoal or ash. Amazing! I want to make reddish black planks for my deck and for my facia I'll make it crackle and but a high gloss shine so it would look a bit like obsidian.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Nope so far it hasn’t

[@mitch5077]

Oh that is Wayyyyy Cool!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Mitch Muerle thanks very much

[@Sepacaju]

If I not wrong burning just the side of the stud facing outside of the wall, rigth?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Juan Paredes yes and no! If using as fencing you would want to burn all the way around. For siding, just the outside needs to be charred.

[@IPASAustralia]

Excellent effect. Thanks for posting.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

IPAS - Independent Productions and Aviation Services thank you!

[@davidshuff2700]

So to brush or not to brush that is the question what do you think?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

It depends on the look you want. I like both

[@TheTonyAndreas]

This is it!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Tony McQueen thank you very much

[@dennydaniel8199]

Excellent stuff bro!! Thanks for sharing your videos!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Denny Daniel thank you

[@AddFilmmedia]

After having coated a chared piece if wood with boiled linseed oil, and letting that dry, Is it then possible to apply a thick layer of 2 component polyurethane on top? Will the PU bind to the dried inseed oil?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely as long as the linseed is completely cured.

[@bruinbeertje1]

Awesome !!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Moby Dick thanks

[@DrDBoz]

Great work... I have watched a few of your videos and I think that subscriber count is going to explode, keep it up. I am watching because I am a high end e-cig making hobbyist, moved to stabilized wood from 3D printing, and you are now inspiring me to make a pure wood, original gear :) thank you for showing us your craft and thank you for the tips!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Sure thing! Thanks for the comments. Much appreciated. Definitely keep up the work. Wood is good.

[@albertreed966]

You mentioned watering the wood, when, how do you add water to keep from warping? Thanks.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

You can wet before or after burning. Or both to really help. I use a garden pump sprayer.

[@operationseekingtruth]

I’m considering doing this for a bar top. I love the idea of being able to feel the crackle, yet would want it water resistant. Would the technic you used work? What are your ideas?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

joshua foster to make it water proof. I would pour a couple flood coats of epoxy resin over top.

[@rebeccacaraska4112]

It's naturally water resistant. Part of the reason for the wood being this way.

[@mutilettie]

I have done this and used my restorer to take off most of the crackle it leaves a beautiful charred finish without the crackle. I think that is what you would have to do to use this as a bar top unless you are completely covering it with a thick coat of epoxy. In my opinion the crackle WILL flake and chip off with this 50/50 mixture of finishing. I would like to see this "table" he is creating after a years worth or use. Remember this has to stand up to USE! I don't think the crackle though beautiful will stay in place.

[@Food-Fire-and-Featherboards]

So what exactly did you use as a finish? You said it was Danish oil, but aslo that it was a mixture. So is it just Danish oil or did you make a mixture? Cheers!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

I made a sort of danish oil by combining Tung Oil & Poly. I believe. Though it’s been a while since

[@ioooo4943]

nice work,thanks.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thank you

[@anthonybrown2374]

How durable is the crackle once it’s sealed? Could it be used as decking or would it just dust away?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Not for standing walking on. But for railings & posts it would be fine.

[@serenaivie]

So I have a farm house that burned beyond what we wanted to repair. There's tons of beautiful black (burned) wood there. It has an alligatored look to it. And is still very solid. Could I just cover it with polyurethane. And use the wood to make furniture, tables or decor with?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely! So sorry about the fire!

[@II_superluminal_II]

WAIT OK so great video, but so like how do I make the cliffs and valleys more apparent. I'm imagining the thing covered in epoxy and when you look close it's a whole new charcoal world

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

You would have to see my other videos about scrubbing the piece. If you want the crackle to show more prominent you would brush coat the resin rather than pour.

[@aphelionravi]

Hi there! Amazing video! I was planning to make a new gate but I didn't have inspiration on what kind of material to use, until I saw your video. Therefore I'm reaching out for a couple of questions for someone unexperienced as me: 1) Can I use it with pine wood please? 2) After I get the wood charred, do I need to brush off the charred pieces? 3) Will this technique weather proof the wood if I intend to use it outside? I am from Mauritius 🇲🇺 and it is a tropical island. In summer we get loads of rain. Sometimes cyclones. 4) According to you, which dealer sealer will work best for my project please?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Hyperion 1.yes pine works as well. Check my other videos for the one I did with pine. 2. You can depends on the finished look you want if you do it will remove the crackle and leave a smoother finish. 3. Yes that is one of the best things to use this for. Water, insects, fire, mildew and more. 4. Sealing with an oil based wipe on finish is best.

[@aphelionravi]

@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 oh man! Thanks so much for replying! I'm planning NOT to remove the charred pieces. I love the reptilian texture it has. It adds a lot of character and it almost look "designer". But I'm gonna seal it with polyurethane. Do you think it's ok? If yes, how many passes of this sealant should I do to stop the soot from flaking off if ever it happens in time? I've checked your other video you made! I like it a lot! It gives an elegant "espresso" finish to it which looks cool for an interior project I have! Thanks again for sharing your tips with me.

[@Feledwards]

I've just performed this with my cedar cladding for my deck railing posts. I haven't put any sealers on it, and I would prefer the natural oils as well. My question, will it leave a stain if someone rubs agains the charred boards after I've applied a couple couples of sealant on the charred wood?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Sorry for the late reply. I would definitely seal it with a natural oil like boiled linseed or tongue oil. It will penetrate and harden. At least 4 coats or more to prevent the charr rubbing off. And it will need to be re-applied over time.

[@JJPharmD]

Love the char. I am remodeling my kitchen and am very interested in doing this for my countertops. How has it held up? Any recommendations for durability and to keep it looking this way (other than heavy epoxy)/. Thanks

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

It’s still doing well. I had it sitting around my shop getting tossed around etc and still looks good.

[@ridik4267]

I thought the reason to burn it would make it water and bug proof? Am I wrong? I want to use some old planks from a deck to use as the skirt sondo I need a sealer?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Ridik that’s correct. The sealer is an added protection.

[@mcatueno]

very cool! I'm about to try something like that as well, but with a epoxy resin finish

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

That should look fantastic!

[@chuckensmith]

How’s the durability on this finish over the loose charred wood now that it’s been a while?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

It’s been sitting in my shop since i made it and the only issue is the resin got scuffed from hitting the floor. All good otherwise.

[@theharlequin7280]

First of all; great and really helpful video. I got a question about the long-term success of the finish. Would you recommend doing it this way or have you encountered something better since the making of the video? I'm planning on doing a similar finish on a guiitar body and currently researching on how to best seal in the wood after heavily charring it.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

For the heavy crackle this worked wonders. You could also use Minwax Polycrylic or epoxy resin. All would lst

[@coldhardysucculentswithkdw4988]

Beautiful. Couldn't really see what kind of table you used but It reminded me of an old singer sewing machine wrought iron set of legs. I just happen to have a set of leggs in the garage somewhere...that's going on the list. Right now I am trying to make a bit of a boardwalk through the garden. I wonder if I can leave the gator look or will it flake off too easily? I did hit some of my practice pcs with a broom and that worked ok. I was trying to avoid having to use the wire brush as I will be doing so much of it. If the sealer helps it to harden would it be super expensive? I was planning to use oil, living on a budget these days. K thanks for all your vid's. I am learning a lot. and yes kind of hard but it's going to be so cool. PS I do not really do carpentry, I'm just a chick that likes to do cool things. thanks, Kim

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Kim Wal that’s awesome! Go for it! As far as the heavy gator look. Yes i would say that it might be a little fragile to walk on. I would recommend do the heavy crackle but them use a brush to wipe off loose bits.

[@thedynamiteagency]

I love your work, I have a question, at home I have two 9 foot tall wood pivot doors. The climate where I live changes drasticly, so the wood on the doors has cracked. I was thinking of using the blow torch. Would this help with the wood from cracking even more?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Rodrigo Mattos actually once cracked. The burning can cause the crack to widen. If you do it prior to cracking yes it will help prevent it. But it’s not perfect.

[@gilfarias4183]

That was awesome good job

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks

[@damonsasser8129]

say one does not own a torch! like i imagine when they originally began the idea! how would one go about burning the wood efficiently and safely! i was thinking a high burn quick evaporating chemical to catch surface on fire in a controlled manner. thoughts?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Damon Sasser there are a couple videos here online of some performing the original method or charring the wood. Take the boards and tie them with wire or wet string in a triangle shape. All edges touching basically. Create a small enough fire to fit inside them and then put one of the open ends over the fire sitting just above on bricks or actually down in the fire. So that the wood is like a chimney with the fire traveling up through the boards. Be sure to use heavy duty fire retardant gloves, sleeves, clothing etc. let it burn a bit take it off and flip to the other open end. Once charred as evenly as you can get it. Take it off. Cut the string or wire. And douse with a hose to cool it quickly. Done!

[@eagleturtle2239]

The actual technique is demonstrated on KZbin by a Japanese practitioner who actually uses matches to burn the wood --you'll just have to look for it.

[@d3tach3d]

beautiful work, brother

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Blotted thanks

[@holybeef7690]

I used the sam technique on my board and batten on my house out of red rough cut pin boards it's been 2 years now and it's totally faded is there any natural sealer I can use to stop further fading thank you

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Boiled linseed oil or tongue oil.

[@holybeef7690]

@Love Of The Grain Workshop thank you I'll give it a try great content keep it coming 👍

[@vigilantcitizen5416]

Could you keep the charing if you used this as flooring?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

No unfortunately. I don’t think it would withstand the constant pressure and abuse from walking etc.

[@FirstnameLamename]

Since we are charring so much, would any other wood work too?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Indeed. Check out my latest video on shousugiban aka yakisugi. I show using various woods. Cedar works best for the alligator charr though. And especially if used outdoors for protection from bugs, weather and rot

[@jonathana9239]

hello, thanks for this video, I love the finish rendering, but I can't quite figure out what exactly are the products used to protect the cracks. Thank you for your reply ! I am non-English speaking French 😅

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

On this one it is a danish oil. Just a combination of linseed or tongue oil and polyurethane.

[@ignaciorodriguez5762]

I really Loved it, If i use a tradicional pine wood, can I get a similar result with that kind of cracks?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely! Sorry for the very late reply

[@mayingkwok4705]

Wow!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks

[@michaelsuch5080]

I would love to do this to our backyard fence. Would a fence do well with this technique? If so, Would you use the same poly and linseed oil to seal it?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Hey! That’s it’s original purpose along with siding. Yes you would use a natural oil based finish or even an exterior spar urethane like Helmans spar.

[@monnomneteregardepas5272]

Hey thanks I was wondering how people make heavily burnt wood. I just wonder how much it stains your hands (or does it? ) after you treated the wood

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

If you seal it correctly it shouldn’t stain anything. I would recommend burning and scrubbing with a wire brush like one of my other videos shows to prevent rubbing off if using for seating. But this one will last a long time.

[@ronniejenzen6704]

Try 100% Tung oil. All natural. Do you have any problems with warping of the boards when heated ?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

It can just depend on the board. It will sometimes. It wont sometimes.

[@chompers11]

Awesome and the most helpful video I've seen yet, do you pre spray with water or just during or after the burn?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

You can certainly do it before and after. Burn fast and burn both sides to helps also

[@crystalflores6635]

I'm in process of doing this for my cedar plank siding. I sealed with teak oil. However i noticed I'm still getting a lot of char residue on hands while handling the boards. Going to do another coat tonight. Should that solve my problem or is there something else you can recommend? Thanks

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

You will definitely need a lot of coats to prevent that.

[@johnmerdler6526]

Have you tried this deep char technique on regular pine boards? Also, if this was done on a couch would the char rub off when people touched it?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Great question. I have done it on southern yellow pine which looks fantastic. Check out the other videos I have listed. Both using pine! Yes depending on how much char it will most likely flake off over time. I would recommend for furniture a light charr with a few coats of water based polyurethane over top to help stabilize and seal it. Or depending on the piece and how it’s made a coat of epoxy resin would work better. I also have a video on that.

[@adrianfdze3810]

You rock man!!!!. Thank you!!!.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Thanks

[@mellosays]

This is the first time I see this technique without brushing in the end. Pretty cool! Do you think this could be done on an already assembled cedar box? Thanks!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Caramelo yeah should be doable. Do it outside and wear a good quality respirator. As if there us a finish on it. It wouldn’t be healthy to breathe.

[@ericwarner2832]

Great looking piece. Am wanting to do this as planking on a shed. Would this be okay for an exterior placement, and what would be an appropriate finish for a less shiny, more matte appearance. Thanks.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Sorry for the late reply! Absolutely yes. This is what the technique was originally used for. For a less glossy finish use an exterior water based polyurethane that has a satin or matte finish to it. Please check out my latest Shousugiban vid. I have a lot more tips and tricks as well as tools that are a must have for a job like that.

[@ericwarner2832]

@@loveofthegrainworkshop2891 Thanks appreciate you following up, will watch the suggested vid. Good timing will be doing this in the next two months. Thanks.

[@garrisjr]

Nice work. You said to make sure to spray the wood with water. Do you mean to just keep the flames down or do you spray it before or after your finished bunring?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

garrisjr yes just to keep the flames down and to prevent it from still burning further than wanted.

[@urgencepc4563]

Hiya, my home burnt down and I have a LOT of heavily charred still semi-decent planks. I'm thinking of using them for the outside of the rebuild?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely! Go for it. Great sentimental repurpose!

[@pixiebombl33]

Love it!!! I’m wanting to do an outdoor garden fence that will last longer as I understand this technique helps to weather proof the wood also. Is that true?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Beth Rhodes yes that is true!! Go for it. Be careful

[@chrisr.1803]

If you were doing this for outside siding, do you need to only use cedar?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Chris Richter cedar is the traditional wood used due to its already weather resistant property. But it’s not necessarily required. It will last longer with cedar. And I have found that cedar gives the best crackle look.

[@amandakay5869]

So do you spray water on the wood before you start to burn? Or just after its burned? Thank you..you work is beautiful🙂

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Amanda Kay thanks very much. You can spray prior. But that just makes it take longer to burn. I spray afterward until its not smoking. Check out my latest Shousugiban video where I discuss this while showing you how to charr.

[@majorgunn]

the point is to avoid need of any finish, shou sugi ban is the finish

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Michael Wilson you are absolutely right. But on a piece being used for decorative purposes like a table top on this one. It needs to be sealed to protect the char. And even the old technique has some sort of oil finish like linseed oil etc.

[@misschriss7793]

Hey! that's a very detailed video, thank you so much! We are thinking about doing siding of our house with Shou Sugi Ban, but our contractors say that all of these beautiful cracks will fall off after the first winter. Is it true? how hardy is this finish?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Miss Chriss the original purpose was for use as siding, fencing etc. the whole point of the technique is to protect the wood from weather, bugs etc. It will outlast treated wood and paint if sealed correctly. Tell them to do the research on how to make it properly.

[@peterbeertema6494]

I found that if you burn it very fast ie. tiger torch the finish is different. Bigger char

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Absolutely!

[@SaucyTreasures]

Thank you for your videos, and your welcoming attitude. What's your opinion on using Tung Oil over a wire brushed surface (took a pine plank, charred the surface until a crocodile patterned char formed, took a cheap Harbor Freight stiff wire brush and cleared the char)? I just began checking out the Sho Sugi Ban technique, and I already have the Tung Oil. Thanks in advance for your advice.

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

SaucyTreasures I have a video on that technique as well. Check my other vids. It’s the one with almost 1 million views. I cover how to do that as well

[@Verichai]

Maybe I misunderstood, but did you say you were using Danish Oil, which is a combination of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil, or that you made a mixture of Polyurethane and Boiled Linseed oil that you are comparing to Danish Oil? Also how exactly is water used to prevent warping? Do you mist the board after you char it, or do you give it a light coat of mist beforehand?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

I mixed the two myself which is similar to danish oil. Spraying before and after can help prevent warping. Charing both sides can also help.

[@716barnstyle]

Awesome. Is there a way to get less shine, more of a matte finish?

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

Barnaby Rich use a finish that is satin or matte. The one I sed was gloss.

[@markboschman1188]

I would like to do beside tables with this finish, but I don't want to have to re-finish thew wood in order to prevent it from flaking off after a year or two. Will your 3:1 mixture of linseed/tounge oil and polyurethane be suitable to seal the wood and charred bits forever? Like other commentors, I don't want soot breaking off. Thanks!

[@loveofthegrainworkshop2891]

No unfortunately. You would need to seal with a finish that could build on the surface. So a water based Polycrylic by minwax or similar. Or epoxy resin.