DIY Home Network: Experts Debate - Right or Wrong Techniques?

[@ltdees2362]

Look, this is Torogi Pro's patch-panel, he can configure anyway he likes, he can turn it upside down, sideways, and put it in the bathroom 🚽 Its not yours, its not mine and its not in the Pentagon for gods sake! 😬 Its a home network (wish mine looked that good), if I were to make video of mine, you would crucify me then laugh me into last week! 💀...and BTW...I made all my patch cords too...and they work just fine...I even tested'em, so there you go...my 2 cent...for what its worth...IMHO...bite me! 😝 💋 👣👅

[@LucaWen]

Exactly! He can do it any way he wants, but he certainly can not call it the 'right way'

[@breakfixsolutions3057]

very well said Sir.

[@Zeric1]

Agreed. Many of the suggestions by others are appropriate for a larger install, but unnecessary here. Most of the comments are no doubt from those used to working in a commercial wiring closet with hundreds of connections, not 12. I've been at both ends of the spectrum and the design considerations are different. Since there are only about a dozen connections, even a patch panel is optional, but nice to have. Good wiring management really comes into play when you have a lot of wires. I think some of these people would be saying you need a rack, PDU, and patch panel for 3 connections to an integrated wifi router.

[@d.n.bmusic4200]

LucaWen tưtq. Kceen ưt

[@samiraperi467]

He can configure it however he likes but HE SHOULD NOT BE INSTRUCTING OTHERS IN THAT CASE. This isn't best practices which is required when you claim to show how it's done right.

[@solath]

I do this type of work professionally. While I'm sure this will work fine for your home environment, when you are ready to take it to the next level... 1. Use cage nuts 2. Don't skip a single hole in a square hole rack. If you want to leave a gap for whatever reason, leave a full 1U (3 holes). Square hole racks don't have even hole spacing - there's a reason for that. 3. That keystone panel has a cable guide on it to help with cable management. The extra cable should be coiled and zip tied behind. 4. Patch panel should go to the very top. It has no indicator lights to see and even in a high density 48-port 2U panel it can be at arms length above you and still manageable. 5. Unless you are in a very high density rack where inches of cable matter, don't waste the time and money on building your own patch cables. Patch cables are cheap, have molded strain relief on both ends, and are typically better attached than what you can do with a hand crimper.. 6. Use a 6" extension cable to plug wall warts into a PDU so you don't lose open receptacles. 7. If you are going to do any more cabling than this, spend just a bit more money and buy the quick terminate keystones. There are a lot of companies that make them now and punching down all 8 wires with the pull of one handle is a game-changer.

[@richardwilliamjohnson8566]

@Phoenix because it's out of the way, So it's easy to add more equipment down lower later. Also heat rises, so you don't want actual powered equipment up the very top if possible. There might be other reasons, that's all I can think of for now

[@banggugyangu]

I was watching this video going..... Cage nuts!!! Lolz. Btw, do you have any experience with rack studs? I just bought a set for my home rack. Server is going to be on nuts, but trying out the rack studs for the lighter weight mountables.

[@josberk4646]

If this is your own home network, do wathaver you want. If this is a proffesional installation, I will kick the living crap out of you. I am confronted with so called Proffesionals who do this as a living.

[@mcraw4d]

@@richardwilliamjohnson8566 I'm moving equipment at work from wire rack shelf into a Tripp cabinet. The config top to bottom I was sketching was Router, POE switch, two keystone patch panels, second non-POE switch, two shelves for backup internet equip, and power control unit. Logic was to place the router at the top since it runs the hottest compared to the other pieces of equipment and would place it near the vent for optional fan if needed. Also, the patch panels sandwiched by switches because I've read you don't want patch panels crossing equipment. Figured if a current wall jack that currently does not require power injection I could move patch cable into POE switch. It would cross the patch panel but not equipment. Your opinion?

[@richardwilliamjohnson8566]

@@mcraw4d Not super sure what you mean, but in reference to active equipment up the top, it doesn't really matter especially if it's an open rack or has a decent push-pull fan system. However if it's an enclosed rack where heat will get trapped at the top, it would be recommended to have the hot router seated a little lower. I haven't had much experience with this stuff being an electrician by trade, so have only done the occasional rack fitout (which is definitely an interesting process) but almost always you will have passive items like PDU's, UPS managers, patch panels etc up higher and active equipment throughout the rack, usually with patch panels dotted throughout along with some cable management duct, or brush. It's totally up to you, you just need to think about what's easiest to work with now and in the future, heat and airflow, and where the cables are all actually going. You'd best ask somebody who does this stuff for a living if you want some decent advice.

[@geogmz8277]

I learned more from the comments on this video than the actual video. Anyways appreciate the effort put in it.

[@Godr0b]

Just re-iterating some points: 1. Patch panel up-top, it never moves. 2. U-spacing is in 3's for a reason, literally DESIGNED to mount devices directly next to eachother. Why do people constantly leave single-holes out, or ignore the proper spacing...like WHY. 3. cage nuts, always cage nuts. What are you doing.

[@l31007]

At first I was thinking, oh man, it's gonna take forever to make all those patch cables. Then when you see the final product, it looks amazing with all the perfect length cables. Great job. Thank you for sharing.

[@disdonc6012]

You can also buy such short cables. And then you're sure they're crimped the right way. I would never crimp cables by myself. You can use the very easy push/click-systems. They are much safer.

[@Exicor]

@@disdonc6012 Making tp cables is easy

[@qualin1974]

A good attempt, but I agree with some of the commenters here. I cringed when I saw that you didn't use any cage nuts to mount the equipment. As well, you didn't align the equipment with the holes in the rack. That looks like a 6U wall mounted rack, three holes per single U. I agree that the patch panel was a good choice, but typically it should always go on the top U of the rack, followed by a horizontal cable management tray. You should have used 3' patch cables so you could use a different port on the switch if it goes dead. (It can happen, even with Cisco gear!) After you mounted the switch, you could have used the floor of the rack to hold your non-rack mountable equipment, rather than placing your equipment ontop of the switch. While you can do that, it makes it considerably more difficult to replace the switch, should it fail. The equipment you chose isn't bad, but I would have chosen a Cisco RV320 Router/Firewall instead.

[@rspotshot]

This guy gets it.

[@PaweRerak]

You wrote exactly what I wanted to. First thing I saw was no aligned equipment with holes in rack. For home use it would bo good - it's clean

[@JuanPabloKutianski]

The single core cable isn't the best for patch cords. The multi core wires brings less mechanical stress on the connector. Too short patch cords put so much stress to the conectors too. Pre build patch cords are really inexpensive. I recommend you to put the Switch on top, 1U cable organizer, 1U patch panel, 1U cable organizer, 1 rack self and on the bottom the power strip.

[@Deraco1]

I think he used cage nuts but used them wrong. Also like others, use the screws adjacent from each other per unit if you only want to use two screws. (left top, right bottom)

[@nobytes2]

Would a firewall be necessary if I am extending from my existing home router LAN ports to a switch?

[@soren9896]

Cable management is ok for home networks. But commercial environments Patch panel and switch should have more separation so cables can be run horizontally and down the rack tethered together. So that patch panel labels are visible. To make diagnosis to network easier.

[@Motorman2112]

If you're only going to use two rack screws, at least use the bottom ones. This way it will pivot on the bottom edge which lets the rack ears sit against the rail. With only the top screws, the rack ears are trying to move away from the rail, so all the force is taken in those two screws and the top edge of the rack ears.

[@RikestRik42]

Not to mention that he didn't even use cage nuts for secure mounting.

[@jabs02360]

I would not have done my own batch cables, especially using wall-rated solid-core cabling. The value of time invested in making all cables typically does not win over purchasing patch cabling at the length you need.

[@iVTECInside]

Couple things I would have done different: 1) Install the cage nuts in the rack. 2) Patch panel up top, its never going to move, ever. 3) Use a shelf or the bottom of the cabinet as a shelf for not rack mount equipment. 4) The tight radius of your patch cables surely doesn't comply with standards, and you are screwed if you ever had to use another port. 5) Consider using a couple keystones for your media PC and modem hookup, that way everything goes to the patch panel and you don't have to tuck any wires back behind as you are up there. 6) If you haven't already, map out where your patch panel connections go in case you need to troubleshoot or want to set up VLANs at a later date. 7) A small UPS might be a good idea. Overall decent effort. Definitely looks cleaner than the cluster f I have running, but with just a few tweaks there would be little if anything to fault.

[@kjeldschouten-lebbing6260]

2) there are different opinions on that. I personally prefer any front facing power connections (which are often handy for home racks) up top and patchpanel beneat it. (I personally have: Power A Passthrough Power B SFP+ switch (dedicated) passthrough 1GbE switch A (with a few extra SFP+ ports for redundancy of some important devices on the SFP+ switch) patchpanel 1GbE switch B It's not ideal, but I have a lot of U's in height but a lack of access from the back, so having everything from the front makes maintenance easier. It also puts the patchpanel and switches on eye height, which is nice. What I wanted to make clear: The location of the patchpanel depends on your needs and setup. However, it should always be above any servers.) 3) preferably just grab rackmount gear. Switches are not that more expansive rackmount and almost every PC an easily be turned into a rackmount by just putting it in another case (including a router). 4) Standards, any link to a standard about bend radius for these? 5) The problem is bigger, he should've terminated the in-wall cables into keystones (not plugs) and should indeed have used passthrough plugs for the devices. I do like using pass-through plugs in patchpanels connect devices though, it's nice and clean... Till about 10 devices, then it becomes cleaner to do it differently. 6) This is so understated... PLEASE EVERYONE document it. I cant second this more. 7) Depends on your location. Some countries don't have frequent outages. I myself unplugged all UPS's in my rack. The poweroutages once every 30-40 years(!) here, was not worth the 25-40W upkeep they took.

[@rhodaime79]

Point no.5, you mean that everything goes to the switch and not the patch panel right?

[@Steamrick]

... yeah, I'd definitely buy ready-made patch cables.

[@AceBoy2099]

Yeah, I feel for him making them, I just did it last night, made 24..... man were my fingers sore.....

[@justcommenting4981]

Yea wtf? Why would you not get them preconnected?

[@renzjohncordero]

Ready made are expensive cables.

[@Steamrick]

​@@renzjohncordero Not really, though? If you buy in a dedicated cable shop (they exist), it's barely any more expensive than buying all the parts seperately. Add in the time you spend on it and you're no worse off just buying ready-made patch cables.

[@agenttexx]

Back up battery would be a good idea. It will protect your switch, PDU, and server.

[@msmith719]

Please tell me this is the Home Network Done Wrong video. Several issues I see. 1) Did not test cables after making the patch cables. 2) Patch panel not placed at top of rack. 3) Buying short patch cables would have been much easier and more reliable than using solid core cables. Also, it would provide for flexibility for future modifications. 4) Used switch uplink ports line regular switch ports. 5) Connected router to a regular switch port instead of an uplink port. 6) Connected PC/server to a router port instead of a switch port. 7) Did not use cage nuts and rack screws. It will be difficult to remove equipment since the nuts he used are not accessible. 8) Skipped 1/3 U between each device. This wastes rack space. 9) Ran the router power through one of the square rack holes. 10) Using the MikroTik as an AP while it is housed inside the metal rack. 11) Sitting the non-rack mount equipment on the switch instead of using a shelf. 12) You don't have a modem. 13) Did not label cables.

[@shobosh]

Gotta give him credit for a neat job though.

[@msmith719]

@@shobosh Neat? Yes. According to best practice? No. It could be done to best practice and still look neat.

[@arifjay6756]

Only thing I disagree with is the purchasing of patch cables. Takes no time at all to make your own. Why not..

[@msmith719]

Making your own cables can cause unexpected issues to arise. Purchasing cables ensures that they are certified to Cat 5e, 6, 6A, 7, etc. standards. You have to take extra time to test and certify homemade cables. The homemade cables are made with solid core wires that are not flexible like the stranded wire that the patch cables that you purchase are made with. Best practice is to use pre-made cables. They are not that expensive compared to the time and materials it takes to make, test, certify, and correct issues found with homemade cables.

[@aguyandhiscomputer]

@@arifjay6756 Making your own cables is fun the first time but it gets old quick. Pre-made cables are cheap at Monoprice and Amazon.

[@Jenachy]

Those clean cable runs are what I hope to achieve when I make my rack system in the future. Good job on that.

[@JohnDieselNelson]

2 questions; 1. Where is the server connected to on the other end? 2. The router is simply bringing in the internet access point. Why but go straight to the switch?

[@QuentinStephens]

Lots of issues have already been mentioned but the standout for me was that none of the cables that you're wiring into your panel are labelled so you don't know which port goes where. Nightmare! And try to keep those two ports on the right on your Cisco switch free - use the main bank.

[@roberttalada5196]

You can tone the cables with a cable toner

[@roberttalada5196]

Also, if it’s a flat network, who cares?

[@QuentinStephens]

@@roberttalada5196 You will, when it comes to troubleshooting.

[@artur8403]

There is standard how short patch cable can be, for electrical reasons and short cables don't bend well and switch ports are under stress

[@ClarkCox]

It hurts me that things aren't actually installed aligned with the rack, so only two screws would line up for each device

[@HappiDada]

Literally was thinking the exact same thing... I rip my guys a new one if they skip a cagenut hole as then your always left with 2/3 of a U at the end.

[@jonneymendoza]

It hurts me reading a negetive post

[@lildrei01]

Newb here. Is it just me or do i think his setup like an overkill for a single home. I mean why does it seem he has a lot going on. I have a decent sized house with 5 bedrooms, 1 mini office 2 living rooms but my switch is just an 8 port tp link switch. Then using an x50 deco mesh system. Ethernet bachauled to 3 rooms, the office, 1 living room, then wireless backhaul in the garage and the garden.

[@MrRottweiler72]

​@@lildrei01just you...not trying to be a azz but that's going to be my setup.

[@КсанАфотин]

Активное сетевое оборудование крайне не желательно соединять медными кабелями короче 50 сантиметров. При объёме трафика приближающемуся к полной утилизации порта можно столкнуться с внезапными проблемами.

[@menyeart8687]

Nice job, the only question I have is why the cable connections are not labeled (router, firewall, vpn, server, etc)

[@AntonioToomalatai]

i like how the comments in here are constructive. Great vid - definitely aiming for a setup like yours.

[@fishpotpete]

Some funky comments in here! This was a nice build for a home network - and much cleaner than my set up. I noticed the people making negative comments don't have much in the way of their own videos. I guess it's easier to criticize others than to create your own content.

[@stewartaustin1515]

Not everyone with expert opinions have KZbin videos. I was the Administrator over a facility with a central hub, three edge wiring closets and fibre optic connections to the edge wiring closets. I had layer two switches on the edge, each separated by their own VLANs (to reduce the possibility of traffic impacting other network areas) and redundant layer three switches at the core. I feel that I have pointers that I could add, but I'll hold back since I don't have a KZbin video to prove my worth.

[@brandon3122]

It wouldn't be as big of a deal if the creator didn't title his video as "Done Right", implying this is the model uneducated people should follow. Does it work? yes. Is it clean? Yes. Is it right? No its not. And that is fine. Things he could improve: 1) use proper rack hardware, in this case he should be using clip nuts, 2) Use hardware for all four mounting points on each piece of rack equipment. If you must use two, use the bottom holes, 3) Use a shelf instead of using hardware as a shelf for smaller components.

[@danielcastaneda7366]

@@brandon3122 this is the problem with generalized communication and one way communication. As the title suggests as "done right" may simply imply his aesthetic view of his system where as others not directly involved in the project don't know what the actual goal was when completed. As you said, it works and it's clean, so in that perspective, it was done right.

[@gerald8289]

Yeah I agree with you, all these pros pop out to comment how his network setup needs to be up to data center specs lol. This will be better than 99% of home networks out there, and actually better than most small business networks I've seen. Most are a massive mess of tangled cables from careless IT people. Only thing i'd say to add would be a cable tester, since they can be had for really cheap.

[@tryp1cac340]

@@gerald8289 most home networks in 2018 use gigabyte switches. evem router built in switches from the isp are mostly gigabyte. ive done installs and maintenance in many businesses and schools and not one of them in 2018 uses a fast ethernet switch. the only times ive seen 2960s is in ccna code academys and home lab networks.. not in production systems. if you want a dumb switch you can get a 24 port tplink dumb switch for not that much if you want managed it will be a bit more but company like ubiquity have pretty good managed switches for not much moneys

[@neilbrookins8428]

There’s nothing wrong with making your own cables. But doing it without the use of a cable test scanner device is asking for trouble down the line. You can make a mistake in the wiring which doesn’t show up on a continuity test but still can impact performance. Such as miswiring which wire pairs are twisted together. This will cause network issues that might not show up initially. Best to borrow or rent a tester after you are done to certify all connections. I’ve done hundreds of rack mount installs. It’s very important to line up the three holes in the rack with the corresponding 1U device. You can’t skip just one hole and then install the next 1U device as they can’t both be properly aligned with the holes. If you need to skip space you need to skip 3 holes which is 1U. Otherwise when you go to mount more stuff in the future it won’t fit. I speak from experience and have had to remove and remount many devices that were not originally installed right to make new stuff fit. If you choose to only connect two screws into the rack and leave two other holes empty then you need to use the bottom holes not the top ones. This way the angular pressure from the device weight away from the rack - in this case the back side will hold the top holes together naturally without any screws. But the other way as shown in the video where the screws are in the top - this way the bottom holes will be loose and not held together by the rear weight. Instead the weight from the rear will pull the bottom holes apart from the rack. This is simple physics.

[@PoeLemic]

Also, why not just buy those cables? I looked and they are (like) $0.60 each. He could have spent next to nothing and be done.

[@Alenori]

@poe Lemic Buting cheap patch cables is asking for trouble sometimes, I work in a commercial setting running Cat 5/5e and Cat6, just recently ran into the nightmare of a super cheap patch cable that was giving us fault reading on out cable testers, we originally though it was the line that was ran for our box, but after more testing it turned out the patch cables were the true issue, and I have no idea what kind of keystone he is using, in our company we always use Intermodule jacks on everything set to a B standard, I've never seen those type of keystone "Jack's" before.

[@arifjay6756]

Poe, what’s the fascination with buying pre made patch cables? Safer bet is to make your own.. takes no more than one minute per cable. Put in the time to do it right the first time, so that you don’t have to double back.

[@kennethplatten]

Neil Brookins I like the fact that you make your own jumpers.

[@billstarr5395]

The short patch cables between the patch panel and switch are ok but the short cables between two devices are not. The minimum cable length for Ethernet is one meter. The maximum length is 100 meters. I have been a network engineer sine 1983.

[@UltimateTechHub]

Good video! I like that you made your own patch cables. And you should definitely use cage nuts and It does look like the top 2 racks are slightly off and not level. And like others have said the patch panel should go up top. I have OCD so I noticed it right away but otherwise really good job.

[@vincenttabbers9432]

hi, Maybe it's better if you use the gig ports (the 2 ports on the far right) to connect the mini PC and the router. This because you get more bandwidth to your devices. If you want to access the files from the mini PC with multiple devices it's a lot faster then with a 100 mbit connection.

[@PoeLemic]

Agreed. And, use (maybe) different color cables to illustrate that. Not all just blue cables.

[@banggugyangu]

I didn't pay attention to the switch being used, but a 24 port gbe switch is not very expensive. If the rest of the ports were indeed 100 base t, then the first upgrade he should do is replace that switch.

[@PoeLemic]

Agree with both of you. But, I'm glad that he is showing it step-by-step, because it makes my PALTRY EFFORTS feel better. This guy is real -- not like Linus and all of his large team now. So, I like what this guy is showing us ... I really do. I'd like to have a setup like him one day ...

[@paulstrollo3187]

very pretty but... and i could be wrong but... those patch cables are way to short right? minimum of 3 ft...

[@josemartinez-gr1cz]

I think it looks great! Never mind all these negative comments.

[@DaveGrizzly4535]

Nice to see another Filipino doing networking and computer stuff...

[@catsarereallyfurryaliens]

Surely you should’ve left more length on the cables in the form of a service loop before attaching each keystone?

[@techtoon6614]

I think PDU must be back side of Patch panel and Switch backside

[@KG84C]

Ok, aussie here, assume this is from the US, or Philippines? So he can do what he wants, probably better than many. Some improvements: 1. Use a patch panel that provides for strain relief of the fixed ethernet cables. Cat5 - zip ties, Cat6 - recommend velcro* 2. Looks like Cat6 here, so for the home made patch leads: a. Factory made leads are usually more reliable with better strain relief and quality control for guaranteed Cat6 performance (Avoid the "yum cha" brand rubbish). b. Sold core for patch leads? That's risking breakages if your patching around a bit, small risk I know bur patch leads are relatively cheap. 3. Put PP at top, it's never going to move. 4. Use cage nuts, they are cheap, and your gear is only half secured here. 5. Follow rack spacing (RU's), it's marked out on most cabinet frames. No gaps. 6. If rack mountable gear is placed at top, theen you can use rack bottom or a full/half shelf to place smaller items, Mikrotik looks a bit odd on its side. * My fixed data wiring is FTP Cat6, screened outlets, screened PP, and 2 x 6RU cabinets side by side in a built in robe (Cupboard). Earthed (Grounded) by 6mm (10 AWG) earth cable to 3 x 9ft copper clad steel electrodes coupled together, mostly concealed in wall cavity, and I have a plastic earth pit to conceal the ugly ground rod connection). Still, your installation, whatever floats your boat.....

[@JayDee-nj6dx]

Going to wire 5 rooms in new house, longest cable would be 30m. Would you recommend cat 6 or 6a?? Cat 7 would be overkill right?

[@innovationwebdesign6631]

Nice work on the cable management! Thanks for sharing...

[@NOUMAN905]

Why we use punch panel? Why we do not insert cable directly into switch?

[@zentraidee9701]

The torogi Kid is a real pro!

[@immanuelb41]

I LIKE YOUR SOUNDTRACK

[@HigherSelph]

You lost me when you started plugging the cables in: - Where is the internet coming from? - Why connect the media server to the router vs patch panel? - How do you add on wifi? - What are the two patch cables on the right, that connect the switch and patch panel for? It also seems like you're linking to a different patch panel than what was used. Im all confused. Maybe this video isn't intended video beginners?

[@scoutpinoy3122]

Got yeah

[@rickb06]

Where is the internet coming from: in all likelihood, the internet is coming in with the cable COAX, he is probably uplinking the firewall (wherever it is) to it, and then go the patch switch via patch panel. Why connect the media server to the router instead of the patch panel: patch panels are only for (should only be used) for remote devices, it make little practical sense to do it the other way. Addon wifi: the MikroTik firewall supports wifi via dongle or adapter. 2 wires on the right: he is using what's called a LAG, link aggregation group to boost the speed, so long as the switch and router are LAG compliant, they essentially double the uplink speed (instead of 1GbE he would get 2GbE.)

[@engrpiman]

I also need to jump on this. cage nuts can be had for less then $10 for a box. most nuts could pull through the rack holes so it is not secure.

[@teddywinters9296]

Quick question. Why do you have both a switch and a patch panel as well.? You could directly give these cables to the switch right?

[@pyroscold]

Thanks for sharing. Neat work for home network. As long as no package drop, any cable length is fine.

[@walterring]

By specification patch cords have a minimum length of 0.5 m, you are going below that. I would not recommend making patch cords yourself but purchase certified 0.5 m patch cords.

[@josebrivera1716]

I am new to patch panels. So I have to ask “why are they necessary?” Why not connect the Ethernet cables directly onto the switch? Let me know.

[@gilmaringa]

The whole idea to use a patch panel is for organization and static labeling of the network ends to easy the troubleshooting in case of failure. He skipped this primordial thing. :)

[@JayDee-nj6dx]

@@gilmaringa for a home system with 4 or 5 rooms wired. Do you think a panel is necessary? Or just use the switch?

[@gilmaringa]

@@JayDee-nj6dx Hi. I think that is not necessary. Just label the cables and connect directly to the switch. In the rooms I recomend to use keystones on the walls.

[@JayDee-nj6dx]

@@gilmaringa Thanks 🙏 I’m wiring my home, 5 rooms with the longest cable 30m . Should I wire with cat 6 or 6a? Cat 7 would be overkill right?

[@gilmaringa]

@@JayDee-nj6dx cat5e with good quality will be allright till 1Gb. Remember the switch have to be 10/100/1000 too :)

[@omarsaidmohamud3031]

Thank you bro. You do great work for us.

[@TheUntoldStories-qf4od]

Hi, did you configure it?

[@wx2833]

Hi, I was looking for information on how to wire a receptacle outlet for a Emerson MPH-NCV27AMXH30 27 Outlet Black Power Distribution Unit; and I haven't been able to even find a PDF manual for this unit; I initially source the materials to wire the three, (3) phase, four, (4) pole, five, (5) wire outlet to match the plug on the PDU; however, due to the lack of information I have been able to find; I am thinking of changing the plug to Singe, (1) phase, 30 amp, 240 volt. Any information or pointers where to find manuals would be very helpful. Thanks.

[@ThomWalbranA1]

COUPLE HINT cat5/6 doesn't like tight turns also never use wire ties us only velcro and lastly rack rails are setup so each rack space equals 3 holes. space between units leave 3 holes and just you are only putting 2 screws the bottom two are the only one holding weight.

[@pv6596]

Just order finished cables online. Faster, better quality and finish, and cheaper than making them. A ‘pro’ also needs an Ethernet cable tester.

[@rhaypeling7766]

maybe you don't know how to make ethernet cables. I think this video is about DIY home network. Why buy if you can make one? and you don't need cable tester to make it work. It does not mean if make your cable it's not a quality finish my freind.

[@chrisaldrich8584]

I ran my 20 line and 14 i bought already made at 50 feet, then bought 1000 feet of cat 6 and ran the rest and put the ends on them fast and clean, have a tester but dont need it really. Making your own is really alot easier then most people think. My question is why the patch panel? there is no need for it, just put the connectors on the wires he ran and connect them right into the switch, alot easier and less work you have to do in my opinion.

[@chrisaldrich8584]

@Scott Luther it's just more work but cosmetically you see bunch of wires lol just thought it should be simple, wires then switch, would look cleaner to me.

[@PoeLemic]

PV: Thank God that I'm not only one seeing that. Yeah, spend 50 cents each and be done.

[@MrW000f]

@@chrisaldrich8584 Patch panel can be usefull if you want to do more than just switch connection. I did set up my home with multile rj45 ports and a 16U bay with a patch panel. I can make the phone line to the patch panel et use a simple rj11 cable on it to the dsl modem (or a prot splitter on both sides and make 2 lines comes in the bay) and i can also route a hdmi to rj45 use the patch panel. (4k 30gps with hdcp and audio over single cat 6 cable) so in normal use case the same ports are bridge (near mediacenter and videoprojector port) but if i want i can route hdmi from any rj45 in the house. I also have multiple networks depending on usage (work, personnal and wifi/less secure) using colored cable from patch panel is quite useful :)

[@Nashemon]

Thank you so much for this video and the links in the description! I've always been hesitant to actually buy anything without assurance that it would be compatible. I used your recommendations and some of the tips from the comments to finally buy something I've been wanting for awhile, but recently found a need for (IP security cameras). I've run two cables into the basement for a central area to run to additional areas around the house, and this is perfect for that location.

[@AceBoy2099]

How do you have your drops? Are they into the wall and just out a hole behind the rack or are they through the ceiling? I couldn't tell in the video.... If through the wall did you cut a slit in the header beam to fit all of them or drill a ton of holes?

[@paologianono2539]

nice, nice. i have 2 catalyst 2960 in my basement. i think is time to bring them up. AGAIN, EXCELLENT TUTORIAL.

[@abhinavmailing]

The hardest thing then a CCNA certification is to crimp those damn RJ 45 connectors. Great video btw dude.

[@g-cornz543]

I use passthrough RJ45. It is a lot easier and will save you wasting RJ45

[@ralphsanchez5205]

so clean and easy for the eyes, great cabling method sir more vids please for more learning. Sir request, pls have a FTTH demo. thanks God bless.

[@hanifabaali3299]

Fantastic your internet wairing too clearly Nice. But where's the main router please spleen me.

[@mamunsikder6367]

Love from Bangladesh

[@babylachimolala5285]

Is that for an unmanaged network?

[@maranathanono1510]

@Torogi Pro: hey, thanks for that post. It's very step by step and I enjoyed it. But my problem is getting to the ending, you didn't mention which cables were going into the file server. Would you help me know the cable you plugged into the file server? Where does the other end goes? And the router: one cable from the switch to the router and the other one on the router, where does it go?? Thanks

[@JJFlores197]

Its a standard ethernet cable. You plug one end into the server's network port and the other end into the network switch. That's it.

[@ojnik]

making your own patch panel cords.. not something I would have done these days personally.

[@Yendelicious]

Bermor in the house!😁

[@arjunlal6669]

Bro..i have one question..why you plug cable from switch to mircotech port.. because you already plugged a cable which comes directly .. please

[@Nickle314]

Why don't switch makers produce devices with the same spacing as patch panels?

[@mathewshoyt1763]

did you not ground the enclosure? great concept.. though..

[@ilfacco]

I have only one question, why you put into the 2 fastest port of the switch a regular cable from patch pannel insted connect the router to the fastest posr on switch? Is it because you have a server in another cabinet? Or maby the router supports classic ethernet only? Thanks

[@imgleb]

Why not terminate cablea and plug directly into switch? Seems unnecessary and creates additional noise

[@jeffborkowski]

Why not terminate your cables with RJ45 and plug direct into the switch? Why out jacks on them then use patch to connect to switch? What does that gain you vs going direct?

[@JJFlores197]

That is an option. For most home users, it will work fine. The reason we use patch panels especially in large networks is to keep the network rack clean and organized. Also, the cables that run from the data drops to the cabinet are not meant to be moved around that much. The cables are usually stiff and can break or otherwise become damaged over time. In that case, you would need to replace the run which can be costly and/or expensive. That's why there are patch panels. The cables terminate at the panel and you can patch them in as needed. Its also helpful when you have numerous data drops and don't need all of them live. You just un-patch the ones you don't need. In the majority of home networks, a panel is not required. However, in large networks where you have 10s of data drops, if not hundreds, it does greatly help to have them to make things organized and more easy to service.

[@gburk6114]

Great job on your HOME network! I hope it works well for you.

[@sarmadhamza]

Why you didn't connect your media server directly to the Switch

[@UtsuNOvo]

I'm triggered by a couple things. Skipping that 1 cage nut gap and not using the bottom screw instead of the top. If you're gonna skimp on screwing it in properly, atleast use the bottom holes instead of the top, that way the strain is on the rack unstead of just the two screws

[@Nickmwirigi]

very clean

[@AJONLY-xo1cl]

Great job bro

[@zadekeys2194]

Nice vid and setup. A few pointers - heaviest equipment should always be on the bottom. If a heavier item falls down during install/removal/maintenance, it can cause serious damage. Check cable spec and cable bend radius. This is why you won't see a business grade installation with such short cables. Always take the cables out to one side, you don't want cables doing vertical runs between devices. Service loop for all cables is a must. Lastly, the ports to the far right are uplink / stacking ports, preserve them and don't use them for "normal" ports. They're ment to connect one Cisco / what ever device, to another. Also re the Pfsense & Mikrotic, I use Pfsense as a pure firewall / IDS / IPS + VPN server (I run it on a i3) & I use the Microtik to do the routing.

[@moonray5763]

Thank you Torogi Pogi

[@clevertech74]

Great video man and thanks for sharing your work! That looks quite nice :) Do not listen to the many idiots making negative comments, those people are frustrated with their own perfect lives... They will never ever be happy, they seek perfection and perfection simply does not exist!

[@torogipro]

Thanks man.

[@SMS-]

Connections diagram would have been best way to explain before connecting all devices.

[@imDavina1331]

i did not use a patch panel. all my network ethernet wires plug straight into my 16 port gigabit switch. it is very messy. wires everywhere. if when i get a patch panel i will use a keystone patch panel with female rj45 to female rj45 keystones. i bought 300 pass through rj45s.

[@Luisvegabroker]

Need your input on a data rack but I see no grounding wire ...where should I run a ground wire to and from ?

[@jazzyboydc]

The two ports all the way to the right are the wan ports for the switch. They are marked in yellow on the switch. That's actually where u plug in ur internet connection. U have the internet connection coming from one of the regular ports on the switch. It still works the way u set it up but isnt the standard way u set up a switch. I would change that in the future. Otherwise nice setup

[@spyrule]

Why not use the square cage nuts like they are designed, and pop them into the square holes? I'd suggest you mount the plug PDU at the back rail, so that your plugs are away from the front panel (especially in a small rack like this, with a side panel that opens). Also, using plenum cable for patch cables is a bad idea. They tend to dry out and crack easily. Just order some cheap patch cables (6" patch cat6 with snagless caps are only $0.55 each)

[@spyrule]

First: I have run several data centers in my career (one of them running 911 services). CMP rated cables are specifically designed to withstand higher temps and generate less smoke in a fire. The primary reason for this is flash-over/smouldering fires accumulate more heat in a ceiling plenum vs lower down. Cables in a rack (especially if cooled cia a CRAC), are subject to typically high air volume change-over that also tends to be very dry (most are supposed to maintain a certain % of humidity, but most dont do this as well as they advertise). The chemicals used to make a CMP cable, also tend to harden the outer sheathing quicker. So the cables dry out faster when in a cooler environment, then in a home/warm environment. There is zero benefit of using more expensive CMP cable in a rack/cage then using much cheaper patch cables (they are typically made with a softer plastic sheathing that actually withstands drying out longer).

[@craigrider9822]

Panel Ports 23 and 24? Looks a bit loose without Cage Nuts.

[@oneman7638]

just a noob question. The main cable through which you are receiving the network connection is the one that goes into the microtek router to the right? correct? the rest are just to connect to your cisco switch, server and the rest of your connections. If you wanted to build and have a firewall put on the system would you have it prior to it plugging into the router?

[@ronelsalem1015]

Padli! Proud cordilleran!

[@catsarereallyfurryaliens]

Shouldn’t the patch panel be on the top of an installation?

[@tdchewy]

I'm slightly triggered by the upside down power ports. Also, What's the point of the patch panel here? You've already run the cable all the way to the destination, why not just plug them in?

[@CoMmAnDrX]

Just thinking the same thing. No need for the patch panel in this setup other than for looks.

[@fmc1192]

@@CoMmAnDrX The cable to the destination will be solid core, the patch lead should be stranded, bad practice to crimp RJ45 plug to solid core

[@OksTVph]

Sir noob question lang po para saan yung mini pc sir? Tyia

[@voronasira9460]

Where did the cable that connects the storage device come from?

[@chandstowingservices8388]

Thats what i wanna know also

[@dwsan1tx]

Clean install. Most do not recommend using hard cable for patch cables. But it looks very good.

[@kaleemwarraich2975]

Learned many things from this video Thanks 👍🏻

[@james4tech20]

what's the model of your mini server?

[@aamirmahmood6667]

Excellent job

[@eleazarmora1218]

Wow neatly done, the right way is done, but where is the part that says "wrong way" of doing it?..

[@PoeLemic]

Some to (most) of what he did. That the second part which answers your question.

[@aguyandhiscomputer]

Did you even watch the video or read any comments?

[@eleazarmora1218]

I only noticed that he left some gaps in between the power strip, the patch panel and the switch.. I think maybe thats the wrong part..

[@jonneymendoza]

What size network rack is that?

[@40rcec0re6]

You should add links to where we can find and buy this stuff

[@mihaiandrei3388]

9:20 beautiful but I have to criticize this for you: serious error mounting rack screws if you only use 2 from below. try the cisco as it is a long device and you see the difference.

[@AladinTechnology]

lol its okay it wont go anywhere

[@florantearauz]

Nice .clear job well done.

[@crispinmunns6636]

Isn’t the ol 2960 100 Base? Surely there’s some old 3560Gs going cheap on eBay so you can get gigE? Can’t help but notice half your patch cables didn’t come up or were reporting different speeds (orange light, green light). Cable testers save so much pain and misery!

[@drakesung5288]

So what’s the difference cat 5 ,6,7,8 and which one should be used around the house?

[@gilmaringa]

Use CAT5e for a bandwidth of 1gig or less. They are certified for a bandwidth of 100 mbit but if they had good quality will work with high speeds. The real recommended cables for more than 100 mbit is CAT6 but you will have to do the entire network (RJ45 conectors and keystones) CAT6 compatible. CAT 7 and 8 are for more robust comercial/industrial environments.

[@ardentdfender4116]

Great job man, it looks better than mine which isn’t even worth taking a picture of.

[@02mradhi]

Great video man. I have question which i was not able to find an answer for. What is ideal tempareture to keep my home network in? What happens if the tempareture goes higher than recommended?

[@unclepabs]

Great example of structured cabling; would like to see a vid on best cable tagging / organisation practice / continuity

[@jameelqaid8761]

Hi..welcome ..i have question .why you install hub and connection with switch you can do connection between server and switch >>please answer my question >>>

[@readygameronerg1704]

Nice one!