DIY Oklahoma Joe’s Highland smoker baffle plate.

I picked up a 16”x48”x0.125 (1/8)” aluminum plate (6061 T6) from a local steel vendor for $33.

[@willwarro4054]

great video. i have done some extensive video watching on baffle plates. the one that got my attention was the guy that used individual steel plates approx 4-5 inches wide and about 16-17 in long. he shows how to individually adjust the gaps between each one to equal out the heat across the grates. and used a 4 probe digital thermometer to adjust them. but I'm still tossing the ideas around in my head. those plates they sell online are seriously too much money. heck i could use my stick welder and do aluminum with reverse polarity. but your way is far easier. plus its more challenging. i enjoy complicated. i have the reverse flow longhorn. the firebox opening is the same dimension as the highland. i haven't even used it yet. i already cut and welded 5/8 axles on the legs and installed 4 pneumatic tires with rims from amazon. it sure does it make it easier to move around. i don't have a deck or pad. you mentioned that dish in the end plate that the firebox bolts to. actually, they do the same to the other end as well. the reason i say this is because everyone complains about the firebox hanging at an angle like its sagging. which is what i initially thought. the firebox bolts on to the bottom which is angled down. my fix was cut out the cheap piece of sheet metal angle over the inside opening to the firebox. i bought a 1"x1"x1/4 in thick steel angle. cut it the length from the front wall and the back. bolted the angle in place where the original angle was. then just added 2 more 3/8 bolts with regular nuts not poly locknuts. each one measured 3 inches in, from the ends and bolted them through the angle and to the outside end of the smoker with washers. when the bolts are tightened it takes out the dish that was put in the end wall. which now the firebox is straight. mine is a longhorn. they do it to all the offset smokers. i found it when put a straight edge on the other end of the smoker and discovered it was dished. but not enough to tell by looking at it. resulting in fixing the problem. i was surprised so many owners didn't figure this out. the difficulty of fixing it is probably around a 4 or 5 for the average person. which with a little common sense, mechanical background and a little know how. for me it was fairly easily done. again great vid. bravo!

[@rogerdjs]

Good Job. I would like to see it in action.

[@FatRandy1]

Can you still get a bark while using the plate?

[@gofish9392]

Good job. How did your baffle plate workout for you?

[@arvina3782]

I had to expand the size I’d the hole because it’s hotter in the left side

[@gofish9392]

@@arvina3782 Thanks

[@Felix-on7ib]

Cool idea but should of used galvanized steel instead of aluminum

[@b_red729]

you should not be using aluminum in something that used for cooking, not good for you

[@arvina3782]

But the oven pans are made of aluminum

[@jp9er4life]

Doesn't aluminum let off poison at certain temperature?

[@arvina3782]

The baking pans are made of aluminum, I think they’re safe. I know galvanized metal are poisonous at higher temps.

[@willwarro4054]

When heated during welding, aluminum produces a white fume mainly composed of aluminum oxide as well as ozone. Aluminum oxide is an irritant. Ozone is a toxic gas. copper can also release poisonous gas when heated at high temps. over time i have seen my cheaper alum pan bottoms become warped. but as the other commented they use it for frying pans. the melting point of aluminum is approx 1200 degrees. which takes a propane/ acetylene torch to melt it. the smoker shouldn't get any hotter than around 400 - 500 degrees. 400 for seasoning. you should be good to go.