DIY SHOP VAC VACUUM TABLE FOR CNC OR WORKSTATION! BUILD FOR LESS THAN $25 IN ABOUT 1 HOUR!

[@Simplifycnc]

I just posted part 2 to this video that shows you how to efficiently machine the vacuum table, demonstrates it being used with a vbit to make a sign, and also gives a solution to help reduce the chances of your vacuum overheating (by poking a small air inlet hole in the pool noodle coupler). The video is called "A $20 DIY VACUUM TABLE FOR CNC AND WOODWORKERS -- CAD, MACHINE, & TEST. DOES IT SUCK REALLY GOOD???" Here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poi2qoWuiphrfq8 One of my viewers gave me a great tip. The Fein vacuum cleaner apparently has two motors -- one for suction and the other for cooling. It is perfect for the vacuum table setup (and would eliminate the need to cut a air cooling hole in you coupler to keep the vacuum cool). I think its definitely worth checking out. I am not an affilitate or being sponsored by Fein. If you were to be the viewer that shared this incredible tip Thanks! Please comment so I can give you the full credit you deserve for your insight. I think this might be the perfect solution for alot of DIY vacuum table makers.

[@LuxeWoodcraft]

I really like the idea. I’ll give it a go. I think it would work well for V-Carving, but not when cutting all the way through the material. Good video mate 🥃

[@Simplifycnc]

I agree that for V-Carving its ideal. Here's a suggestion you might consider trying when making. I think one could use both sides of Melamine sheet to set up different size grid patterns on the same board (with separate sprinkler holes and air channels) so you have more options for fixing on boards. May be worth exploring. Thanks for the comment!

[@fotodille]

Why not use the cnc/router to make the plexiglass cover level with the melamine and then make the air channel that much deeper underneath the pelxiglass (and let it continue a little bit into the square pattern to let air through properly)? Then wouldn't it be a more permanent installation of the extension? (I'm not a cnc owner (yet) so I can't test it, but can't really see a problem with it either). And you can probably benefit from some hotglue to hold the plexi down and seal off against the now rough, machined surface, but it may also allow for some of that extra airflow that the vacuum may need. And I love the idea and think about doing something similar with and for my laser cutter (I'll probably make it from two layers of thin mdf that I will have to glue together and then maybe seal with some coating. It'll be an experiment, but I have the same problem with bent plywood.)

[@Simplifycnc]

Great idea!!! I never thought of that. If you make one send me out a picture. I am putting it on my list of projects to try. Would it be alright if I use your idea in a follow up vacuum table video some day (it will be awhile as I have a CNC building series to complete first)? If I use it, I will give you full credit for your creative useful solution. I think its an elegant approach that has some significant mod potential for other applications as well. THANKS for sharing your idea!

[@fotodille]

@@Simplifycnc You're welcome 🙂 Use it as you like - I guess someone has already done something similar. And if you mention me it's like I get a free prototype 😉 Also you can use the underside to make patterns and channels "overlap" to create more than one zone, but that might need some redesigning of the sprinkler connection 🤓

[@Simplifycnc]

Thanks. I would definitely glue the plexiglass down permanently. I am seriously thinking about tweaking it out with some LED lights/design etched in surface. I will let you know when I make it (even if it doesn't work but can't see why it wouldn't). It probably won't be until the start of next year. A laser cutter is something I don't have but its on my wish list. Maybe I will add it to my CNC someday (its an easy add on).

[@ianquicksr.1213]

I will give it a go and will return and let you know how it works. I am interested in this for V-carving as well. Enjoy the day!

[@Simplifycnc]

Sounds good!

[@Simplifycnc]

Here is a link to part 2 of the vacuum table build (you might get some good ideas from it before building it yourself). kzbin.info/www/bejne/poi2qoWuiphrfq8

[@Rodbuilder109]

Very good ideas. I may use this sometime in the future.

[@Simplifycnc]

Hope you give it a try.

[@Simplifycnc]

One of my viewers gave me a great tip (sadly, I somehow lost the name of whoever it was, so if it was you please feel free to comment/or contact me as I want to make sure you get the credit for your great input)! The viewer said the Fein vacuum uses too motors -- one for cooling and one for the suction. Using this particular vacuum would solve the potential overheating problem (and eliminate any reason to poke a hole in the side of your coupler to give some cooling airflow to your vacuum). Amazing tip. Double thumbs up to whoever messaged me!!! I think I may be adding something new to my Christmas wish list.

[@shrimpinpat]

If you had a 3d printer you’d be unstoppable

[@Simplifycnc]

I've got an old Prusa MK3 3d printer-- Love it. I've used it a lot over the years (and still do). You might want to check out my video where I show you how to make a 3d printed plotter tool for your CNC. Here is the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rqS8hXmvjpqYlck

[@douggarson50]

How long do you expect the shop vac motor to last if you run it with no airflow? Shop vac motors are typically cooled by the airflow thru the shop vac.

[@Simplifycnc]

Excellent question. You absolutely do need to make sure that the vacuum formed does not too much a strain on your particular shop vac (you need to monitor this throughout your CNC job and obviously stop if it starts to overhead as you could burn out the shop vac motor or at a minimum reduce its working life). I talk about this potential issue briefly in the video under safety as well as in my description below the video (and that is one of the reason I put in the disclaimer to use this at your own risk). However, I do think there are some simple fixes to lower the strain on your vacuum. 1)Consider poking a few holes with a ball point pen in the middle of the pool noodle coupler so that part of the vacuum leaks off. Of course this will reduce hold down power but you can tune the hold down power to the minimum necessary level for your project and hopefully sufficiently lower the stress on your vacuum to prevent overheating. (If you end up poking too many holes then cover some of them up with duck tape). 2) Start by using a low cost shop vac to begin with so that if it does give out it doesn't cost you much. Black Friday is coming and you can get some great deals (usually). Also Harbor Freight has some pretty low cost shop vacs. I picked up my Orek vac from a yard sale for $15. 3) Consider limiting the use of the vacuum table to short jobs -- like with simple vcarve designs. 4) Lastly, you can always purchase a custom vacuum with a better cooling system that is specifically designed for a vacuum table (and long term stain). Unfortunately, I don't know of a low cost vac that fits in this category. If anyone who reads this knows of one please comment below.

[@douggarson50]

@@Simplifycnc Or just buy a vacuum pump designed for this service, are they really that much more than a shop vac?

[@Simplifycnc]

@@douggarson50 You could buy a vacuum pump but be aware that most of the cheaper vacuum pumps (at least on Amazon) use oil and the oil tends to get through the vacuum and ruin your wood's finish. Some youtubers have tried to remedy the oil problem with addons but most ended up very frustrated because after a few uses the addon oil protection failed. This is part of what led me to try the leverage the shop vac approach to solve the problem. There is a pretty good approach if you already own a compressor using a venturi vacuum generator (You can get a low cost adapter on Amazon). I tried that approach but the fittings with my compressor were a nightmare as everything seemed to have a different thread. Do a youtube search on this for more info if interested (unfortunately most of the people who have made videos speak German). As a side note, I cut about a 1 inch round hole in the sidewall of the pool noodle coupler (as an air cooling inlet for my vacuum) and it seems to still have enough suction to hold a board down firm-- strong enough that one should easily be able to Vcarve on it (while simultaneously letting air flow through the vacuum significantly reducing chances of overheating/burning out your vacuum). Adjusting this coupler hole size bigger or smaller will let people fine tune the balance between the suction of table and stress on one's vacuum. Its super easy to test out and only costs a small section of pool noodle.

[@Simplifycnc]

I just posted a new video showing a way to reduce down the chances of this overheating. The vacuum cooling portion starts at 15:28 in the video. Thanks for bringing the issue to my attention. Here is the link if you want to see it in action: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poi2qoWuiphrfq8

[@robert_g_fbg]

The Fein vacuums have 2 motors, one is for cooling. These types of shop vacs are perfect for hold down tables

[@paulhill1662]

I was about to subscribe but as soon as I was getting lectures about safety that was it.... 😢

[@Simplifycnc]

Sorry to hear that. I include the safety stuff for the sake of the few CNCers who don't know what they don't know. I suspect from your comment you are an experienced CNC/Woodworker so I totally understand how you wish I would just get on with the video.

[@robertyack1661]

Can't please everyone. This is a great video. I will be making it. Safely, I might add, lol