DIY Smart Window Shades | Home Assistant

[@mdineshraj]

Great video thanks. I am trying to connect the same to two DC motors to automate water changes in my fish tanks. Is there a way we can add a slider to select the time it can stay on for? That way I can control how much it can be open? Thanks again man, life saver!

[@mrbarrington-smythe9033]

Great project! I think I'll add this to my list of stuff to try. How about adding some sort of sensor to count the motor revolutions? That way, with a bit of additional programming (Node Red maybe) HA will always know what position the blind is at.

[@ndinadis]

DrZzs- you could add a magnet in the bottom of the curtain and reed switches on the lower and upper frame to indicate closed and open position. magnet strength could allow a larger gap

[@nickdosremedios8222]

If you really want to stop the heat coming in the home, you really need to put the shades on the OUTSIDE of the windows. Once the heat has come through the glass, that heat is in the room and you're only keeping the heat (partially) between the glass and shades. Any air movement will cause the heat to leak into the room. Here in Oz you see lots of houses with shades on the outside, particularly on the west side of the house (afternoon sun).

[@djsteiner1]

Not really. If you have highly reflective shades, they'll bounce most of the infrared light back out of the window and keep it from hitting more absorbent surfaces inside that turns the IR into heat.

[@EsotericArctos]

If you put a bar with a weight across the bottom will help it wind straight as it will keep tension on the fabric

[@markushahnenkamm]

you should add a position measurement to your shades to prevent them from uncertainty propagation . Either a switch to count the rotations but when you lost it there is no automate way to regain the current position or you use a switch or current detection which knows when you reached the top /are driving in the backstop but you repeatedlywill need to do a reference position maneuver And when you are moving the shutters you can count the driven time or ticks and you will always know what to do to reach a position

[@ludovicmarie547]

Hey dude great set up, I doing the same thing with net in my house due to covid, I’m looking at motoring golfing net up and down so save some space. 2 points: How did you fix the “motor end” to the wall, did you do any fixing? 2- how heavy you recon are your curtains, I might be looking at 1kg for a 3x3 meters nets.

[@aaliankhan4998]

Nice demonstration of the automatically stuff

[@DrZzs]

Thanks Aalian!

[@mariolperalta]

Great work, mate! I'd like to do this project but including 5 shades which are next to each other. Any pointers on how to do the software side of things?

[@willdabeast4430]

Awesome! I have shades that I want to retrofit a motor onto. I haven’t done enough research but is it possible to allow hand operating and motor operated? The blinds we have allow you to put them up by pushing up with your hand. They have springs in the top that wind up as you push up. It will stay where ever you want. I would like a motor that will stay unlocked and remember where the shade is at. Example someone opens it by hand half way and later that day I want it to go the rest of the way up by motor. I’m thinking a stepper motor would be best for this.

[@DrZzs]

Thanks! I agree, that sounds like a job for a stepper motor. If the motor is "off" you can spin the shaft without much resistance. These geared motors I used will NOT spin manually. So my shades are only able to work with the motors.

[@rednaktatube]

좋은 정보 감사합니다. 저더 만들어 보려고하는데 큰 도움이 될거 같아요

[@cheloautomation4994]

Unbelievable work, I'm going to try it later on. Thank you very much for sharing.

[@DrZzs]

Awesome! You're welcome!

[@tignosnail8219]

Great tutorial DrZzs... Plan to build this using end stop to trigger motor stop. Instead of delay, how would the cover be written? Thanks.

[@tignosnail8219]

Just saw your v2 video... nice!!

[@JrgenDurkeHansen]

I know this a bit late. But I am missing something like 2 kontakts to decide if shades is all way down, or up. It could be made with a magnet and 2 reed contacts. and of course stop motors when endpoints is reached.

[@navsandhu9787]

Great project doing my now, could you tell me what type of push button you are using momentary or latched, I tryed the link but error came up can't find page thanks

[@RhuanrLima]

i'm trying to attach the H bridge with aa Google home enabled led controller, how can i convert the negative signal of the led colors to a positive so i can give a signal to H bridge input? Transistor, Relay?

[@GaryBickford]

You could use two door sensors (like the Wyze, or something that works without flashing HW) to provide full up and down states. Fasten one magenta to the center bottom of the shade, mount one sensor on the window sill and one on the frame above the rod. Assuming the location is sufficiently repeatable, the sensors can tell you when to stop. To handle position uncertainty, just fasten a lot of small magnets (or maybe refrigerator seal?) Along the bottom of the shade.

[@stonewallace]

GREAT VIDEO! I love the castle theme theme at the beginning too. So your style for sure :) - And as usual, GREAT production value and easy to follow. - I'm off to go make one now!

[@DrZzs]

Awesome! I had some fun with it. I'm glad you appreciate it. It's fun to get to express my geekiness and have it well received :) Thanks!

[@dannewcomb8810]

use thin cardstock strips to shim...tuck them into the shade roll at full extension on the "long" side until you're happy with it

[@DrZzs]

I'll have to try that. I saw someone use tape on the short side to reduce telescoping. I think my shade may not be totally square.

[@Far_Ken]

@@DrZzs The professional installer who mounted our manual blinds, did exactly that. One or two pieces of 3 cm masking tape on the rod quickly corrected the telescope effect. Thanks for the awesome video 😊👍

[@JoseBerruezo]

Nice video, what are the specifications of the used motor? rpm, kg.cm, etc. thanks

[@ottowinter7995]

Winter is coming :P

[@DrZzs]

You da man! ESPhome is a game changer! Thank you!

[@madrian_hello]

Otto, I am crying. 😂

[@GJSBRT]

Sprinter is coming

[@themayorh41]

I have a few ideas for you on your curtains. 1. Use a heavy-ish rod at the bottom to evenly height down the curtain so it could possibly reduce or eliminate bunching. 2. Use a sensor switch, mostly laser or magnetically functioning, to stop the curtains at the top and bottom when triggered.

[@DrZzs]

Those are good ideas. The bunching up really bugged me. Gotta get that sorted out before I do all 6 of those big windows.

[@themayorh41]

DrZzs Good luck. Would love to see your content on that.

[@richardbmw320]

That's exactly what I thought, it would just need a Reed switch at the top and bottom and magnet on the rod to define a min and max

[@Monteirowashere]

in the wiring diagram u put a resistance (?ohm) between 3v3 and D0 because...?

[@andrewb8744]

what's the difference between a switch and an output?

[@alkhashtee]

Exactly and I have the same question. I did some research but could not figure it out yet

[@PhilWaud]

A switch gives you a control that you can turn on and off. An output is something that the esp board can set to on or off.

[@matthewdethlefson586]

Create a variable for the current height. So you could do something like pause it in the middle and the variable would now how far into the movement it was when you clicked the button. And then when you go to the app and click go all the way up, it doesn't make the motor turn for 99 seconds, it makes the motor turn until the variable reaches the number your preset to be the completely open state

[@GregoryDamron]

The telescoping could be caused by the expanded pipe, where the bearing was hammered in. The larger diameter will reel in that side of the shade faster.

[@misterfixit1952]

This is absolutely correct. Even a small diameter change will have big affects the more turns that are added. If you measured the circumference of each end, the difference is how much you will raise the larger side per revolution. If the difference is 2mm and there are 10 wraps of fabric, by the time you raise the blind, one side will be 20mm higher, about 3/4 of an inch.

[@emanuelortiz3667]

Can a sonoff switch can be added to the set up so you can control the opening and closing of the shades via wifi?

[@embracethesuck1041]

ESP32 already uses wifi

[@RobNisters]

I like the GOT reference! Let's hope it won't bring too many trials; tribulations or white walkers!

[@DrZzs]

I was tempted to use the ice dragon too, but was worried about copyright.

[@Danuka_Savinda]

Suggestions: Use some 3d printed part to keep it straight and since u have ur controller at the end of the shade, using two IR sensor on the top and bottom as indicators to find if its all the way up or all the way down u may don't have to wait there for make it stop!🙌

[@DrZzs]

good thinking! I've since added a piece of thin pvc pipe to the end and it stays straight now. I do need a better solution for stopping it at the ends. Thanks!

[@Danuka_Savinda]

@@DrZzsWelcome, using some ir sensors is the easiest way u can find some coding in github just try it it's really easy!

[@Danuka_Savinda]

@@DrZzs hey can I have your email I wanna show you something that I build thanks to you! If it's ok

[@JuanMTech]

Interesting video, Dr Zzs. I saw you linked one of my videos there. Thank you.

[@DrZzs]

Thanks Juan! You do great work. I link your videos a lot :)

[@mathesonstep]

ESP Home looks amazing I need to get more nodeMCU's and D1 Minis

[@DrZzs]

Yes you do! and get some ESP32's while you're at it. ESPhome works with ESP32's too. I'm betting by the end of 2019 most of my projects will be ESP32 based. They don't cost much more than the 8266's and they are much more capable. But I still have like 10 D1minis that need a purpose in life :)

[@MrJeff]

9:18, i do the same dance when something works the first time! i also add an evil laught hahaha and say "genius!"

[@DrZzs]

hehehe! glad it's not just me :)

[@Araf_330]

Hi I was wondering if that motor can be controlled by wifi curtain switches! There are lots of tuya and ewelink switches now! Would save lots of money

[@MrMduzee]

DrZss, what you need to do is to put some weight at the end tip of the whole shade (not too much weight but it must be end to end. This will help you with the lined up, your shade wont telescope !!!!

[@DrZzs]

I'll try that. Thanks!

[@jefffaberman7892]

This is EXTREMELY helpful. Two questions, where did you get the casing/housing. I'm not familiar with OnShape. Second, which specific buttons do you use? Thank you!

[@dablet]

i wish you had used a powerful stepper motor like Nema 17.

[@janinho82]

Very interesting videos as usual! I made one a long time ago but in the end I left it because I ended up buying some made of tuya. I was thinking of making an RC car with a servo motor to raise and lower an esp32 camera and be able to move it around the house on battery power like a super cool security camera. I have seen that the wheels and also the steering can be moved with an L298 that's why I have seen your video, again ;). It would be a great help if you dare and do it. Keep it up genius!

[@sonny1977]

I was following along fine, right up to " cut relief slots in the rod and smash the bearing in" after that i don't even think they were real words you were using. Luckily im in the UK and dont have to worry about blocking out this mythical ball of fire thing you speak of ;)

[@DrZzs]

haha! be glad you are there! that fireball hates me and my fair skin.

[@danielikrambinbadrulazman2312]

sir, did you use any gear or sprocket and connect them to the servo motor?

[@stickrtrade]

DrZzs never disappoints me. As always, thanks for another awesome video showing me just how to bring even more joy to my life. ;) Your efforts are much appreciated.

[@DrZzs]

Ah thanks man! This was a good one. I hadn’t done a good full video for a while. More to come. Working on cameras and notifications right now.

[@claudioita9]

That's a really cool project. What's the overall time needed and cost of all parts?

[@MrMduzee]

I knew it you were going to get it right, DrZss

[@DrZzs]

Thanks!

[@skeepskeeperson]

You could always add some fabric guides into your wall mounted CAD models and print them again.

[@MrMurphyprecht]

So instead of a timer, couldn't we add limit switches to the esp8266? End stops in effect?

[@DrZzs]

yes, and after trying a few different things, that's what I'm going to do. I was trying to avoid running a lot of extra wires, but reed switches don't react fast enough and if you get the timing wrong just a little it adds up over time and pretty soon the shades are not at all where you'd expect them to be.

[@MrMurphyprecht]

@@DrZzs yeah that's what I thought, 90 secs this way and 90 secs that way over time would see the blinds either do a wrap around on the pole or scare the cat as it hits the floor. But yeah magnetic Reed switches on a slow motor rotation should work well enough and due to not carrying a lot of current could be supplied by tinned copper wire, very thin and minimum raggling to hide eh? Cheers for replying buddy

[@PRCptPlanet]

Add a rotary encoder so you can tell exactly where the shade is.

[@ollyalme]

What if it for some reason stops and you start it again..? Think there is no way other than some kind of limitswitch for up/down. Magnet fastened to the curtain and magnet-switches on top/bottom?

[@joland119]

What mountain in the background is that?

[@MbySK]

All projects that i like. Requires 3d printed parts... So i think time to buy one... Any ideas which one?

[@DrZzs]

Having a 3d printer opens up SO many more options for projects. I think the Ender3 is a good choice for not a lot of money.

[@rychei5393]

I love this! Can it be done with top down/ bottom up shades? Oh and IKEA shades are pretty cheap.

[@DrZzs]

You can adapt it to whatever shades you have.

[@benjocaz45]

Maybe a reed switch to tell if it’s fully open or fully closed? Just thinking. Or maybe with some clever automations I’m not smart enough to figure out could tell when it’s not fully closed and if u want to close if fully it would go all the way up for 99 seconds then go back down

[@DrZzs]

good thinking. That's what the end-stop switches would be for. But the shade would have to have enough weight to trigger those switches. There's probably a few good ways to do it.

[@ShyamKumar-by7bm]

Hello DrZzs, thanks for great video...was looking for similar setup to build shutoff valve controller.

[@DrZzs]

These would work well for a lot of things. :)

[@ShyamKumar-by7bm]

True and I built few different modules after seeing some of your videos :)

[@MrMurphyprecht]

Don't you find those geared motors very noisy for this application?

[@DrZzs]

Kinda noisy ya, but not enough to really bother me. I would expect there are other options that are less noisy but they are likely more $ too. I like these motors quite a bit. They are cheap and they work. That's 99% of what I look for in parts.

[@MrMurphyprecht]

@@DrZzs no question on cheapness and ease of installation and thanks mate for the housings and stuff on Thingiverse. Might try steppers to make it quieter but not sure it'll be a massive change in volume. Love your work though mate and all the best from sunny Glasgow, Scotland.

[@casperrasmussen8812]

your button link have a error and i am trying to find it, is that a on/off button or release button you use?

[@PhilWaud]

This doesnt work any more - the cover template has changed. Ive got as far as working out that the "state" has to be changed to "position" but Im still searching for an answer.

[@delboytrotter7902]

did you manage to sort this ? i'm having the same problem

[@PhilWaud]

@@delboytrotter7902 no, remote nds me I need to look at it!

[@ludovicmarie547]

Thx a lot hope you can help

[@brianh2798]

Flare on rod end for bearing, if flare is in contact with fabric, will cause the "telescope". I did not see if this was the case or not. But awesome video.

[@DrZzs]

Good point! That’s probably it. Dang. Maybe I need a different solution from that bearing.

[@mrnix1001]

Oh! You have a Traeger; good man!

[@DrZzs]

We love it! No reason to ever use the old style propane or charcoal grill anymore.

[@roystervi]

am looking at some motors and I see some that are 25 RPM for the same price as the 10rpm . what a good rpm for windows blinds?

[@DrZzs]

totally depends on how heavy your blinds are. It's really all about the Torque. If the motor is the same power, then the gears have to change to increase torque, and that reduces speed. A shade like I use in this video can use a much faster motor. I changed this one out for a 45rpm motor. I was looking for a torque meter of some kind to be able to measure the torque required to lift something, but haven't found one yet. So I've had to just try different speeds to see what works. My blinds are pretty heavy and the 10rpm motor lifts them but I don't think one with less torque would do the job. Sorry that's not a firm answer for you.

[@Path.V]

Would it be possible with the currently available GPIO in this project to add limit switches for top/bottom?

[@DrZzs]

yes, but not if you wanted to run 2 shades from one controller. Each shade needs 2 pins for motors, 1 pin for push button, and 2 pins for end-switches. if you try using 2 motors that would require 10 pins. You might be able to do it, but you'd end up using some pins that have other functions, like Rx/Tx probably. You'd have to be careful about which of those pins is low on startup.

[@leglessinoz]

@@DrZzs maybe if one used an ESP32 based NodeMCU board there'd be plenty of i/o pins.

[@TheRealDanielsan]

Love love love this guy! Sick view BTW!

[@DrZzs]

haha! Thanks. That view is 100% why we bought this house. Love it.

[@mandeepmails]

Awesome project 👏🏻

[@DrZzs]

Thanks! About to post the video for motorizing horizontal blinds

[@RobNisters]

I thought you were doing blinds, not shades. Did you abandon the blinds project?

[@DrZzs]

No, not abandoning the blinds. Still working on those right now actually. Trying to use a stepper motor and a4988 controllers with ESPhome. I still have a few things to figure out with that one.

[@RobNisters]

@@DrZzs I hope you figure it out, because I sure would like to automate my ole wooden Luxaflex blinds, if I can find a stepper motor with enough torque that fits inside the rail, I doubt that a pancake stepper can lift that heavy pack of wood blinds

[@TheRealDanielsan]

What RPM motor did you get? I'm noticing that on amazon they're all the same price is there a downfall to getting the fastest one?

[@DrZzs]

The one I got is 10rpm. There's a trade off between speed and torque (lifting strength). So the faster ones won't be able to lift as much weight. I didn't do any calculation to figure out which one to get. I just figured 10rpm's would be enough torque to do just about anything. I'm sure you could get one that goes faster and would still be strong enough to lift a shade.

[@appleTD]

Good old video!! Good job!

[@DrZzs]

Thanks! This one was a long time coming. I'd wanted to do this for a really long time. I'm really happy with how it went.

[@UndercoverFerret404]

No limit switches?

[@DrZzs]

no, I decided not to use them. The motors turn so slowly I think the timing method should be fairly accurate. Also, I didn't add a weight to the bottom of the curtain, so I don't think the weight of just the fabric would have been enough to trigger the end-stops.

[@UndercoverFerret404]

@@DrZzs Over time they will be more and more off. That's where limit switches are great, so they can zero themselves. A limit switch can also be made with magnets and a reed switch, without the need to push a physical switch.

[@chriswisselo4329]

Hey Dr... 2 ideas here... 1. Telescoping: Cut a slit over the length of the (EMT?) pipe and slide the curtain in. Gives you the ability to adjust it until it is just perfect, then a few dobs of glue at the end at the inside of the tube to fix them in place. 2. You want to block out the sun and avoid heating your house up. But what if no one is home to close them? You have a light/ temperature sensor controlling the automation? That would turn it fully autonomic! I am waiting on the arrival of my Raspberry Pi4 (4gb) to get started transforming my automation to a non internet-dependent/ privacy controlled one. Thanks for the educational videos and the occasional laughs! Sub +1

[@DrZzs]

Thanks! those are good ideas :)

[@jakubcieslak2190]

You need to count a gravity, cause up and down will never be with that same time (unless you got a strong DC motor).

[@ronm6585]

Good stuff. 👍 Thanks. (oh yes, nice dance when you did the first test) :-)

[@DrZzs]

haha Thanks! that was totally spontaneous. That's all the dance moves I've got. :)

[@kxiniks7965]

wow, drzzs, this is what we want!! ;)

[@DrZzs]

Excellent! It's one I've been wanting to make for a long time too.

[@elixastyles6470]

Me gusta tu video podría una forma traducción en español

[@omorfarok6767]

bro. When i make some projects! I dancing a same too you😄😄😄😃

[@dwaynelarose278]

I lost it when you started to jig

[@DrZzs]

I'm expecting Dancing with the Stars to call any minute now :)

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

Secondary to the purpose of the video... Need to work on your first layer unless you intentionally designed textures into the parts. It also seems you have the same black filament issues I do; royal pain to get good, small prints w/ it. Check out the forums on FB if you haven't already. Lot of helpful people there.

[@DrZzs]

Thanks. I'm also using the MoarStruder with a 1.2mm nozzle so I don't get fine details, but I get big parts printed fast and strong.

[@OldCurmudgeon3DP]

@@DrZzs that's 3x bigger than mine. I agree on getting big things done fast. When I start printing Halo props I'll probably wish I had a bigger nozzle (definitely bigger printer).

[@vaughanza]

You rock DrZzs

[@DrZzs]

Thanks man!

[@Blamm83]

Do your neighbours live in a castle? Or is that your playhouse?

[@DrZzs]

that's my playhouse. That's where I go to when I'm on "time-out" :)

[@Ed19601]

I am impressed

[@DrZzs]

thanks!

[@mikeunum]

Oh, not done with tasmota? Dr. you must do it again ;-)

[@DrZzs]

ha! ESPhome is the future! Tasmota is not dead, but ESPhome is pretty awesome.

[@ricktyman4709]

Ummm are we just gonna ignore the giant mountain view he has?

[@Conservator.]

Hi Dr Zzs, There must be an instrument maker at your work. Maybe he wants to team up with you. It might improve the WAF. (Not saying you aren’t awesome)

[@DrZzs]

Good point! I need some precision machining on these shades!

[@salim.studio]

Amazing

[@DrZzs]

Thanks hermano!

[@salim.studio]

@@DrZzs Brou thanks so much for al lthis information , i need to watch all you other videos and put a thumb up, I need to be up to date

[@randomaccessbroccoli9460]

holy sheet that view...

[@DrZzs]

thanks. ya, that's the reason we haven't covered the windows in the years we've lived here. But the power bill in the summer has convinced me to do something about that sun.

[@leglessinoz]

Now I just need this to work with Alexa rather than Hass.

[@DrZzs]

Oh, it'll work with Alexa too. There's a few ways you could do it. Do you just use Alexa as your hub? I use Alexa via Nabu Casa (HA cloud), so she can control anything I have in HA. But there are other ways. Maybe nodeRed, or maybe a different firmware on the D1mini that interacts with Alexa. I'm sure there are ways.

[@mordagameaddict]

Washers at the ends of the tube should guide it an keep it straight

[@pistonbroke5405]

love the video but the bearing into the conduit and the self tapping screw into the drive plate made me squirm, I work in an engineering firm and can see why you're a doc 😂

[@DrZzs]

ha! I'd flunk out of real engineering ;P

[@pistonbroke5405]

DrZzs the way I would do it involves schoolboy science . Get a bearing about 1mm to big and put it in the freezer put the end of the conduit in a pan of boiling water then the bearing should slide inside but it’s a one shot deal once they both get back to room temperature you’ll never separate them Should be able to do that with the drive plate as well if you print it a touch bigger

[@johnduffy7502]

@@pistonbroke5405 1mm? Way too much. I agree with the idea but the thermal coefficient of expansion of steel is around 13 * 10^-6 m per degree C. I have done this with large Alfa Laval centrifuges and it ain't easy! Would suggest a slight interference fit and press them in. But the inside of the conduit would need to be machined perfectly round and smooth. The idea is great, but the engineering side of this project is dodgy at best.

[@Hermy21]

Well he could mount the bearing in the wall mount and then make a proper sized adapter to go from the emt to the inside of the bearing. And I would print that adapter on its side for the added strength. But great Video overall!

[@maans2001]

What you call "intolerable levels" is nothing compared of what's an every day life in the middle east (:

[@elesjuan]

I bitch about the summer heat in Kansas city every year, but someone always reminds me of how hot other places are. I'm thankful it doesn't routinely get over 38* here.. That said, upper 30s with 80%+ humidity still sucks.

[@maans2001]

Yup , here every day is considered “hot” so as you can figure out AC bills go high up 😂

[@infernoerrooke]

Revenge of the Nerds

[@DrZzs]

Winner!! I can't say "Lambda" without hearing that rap song they did in that movie. Classic!

[@infernoerrooke]

@@DrZzs yes, I love that movie! And the sequel

[@AaronFlaming]

You need to calibrate the extruder on your 3d printer, you are under extruding badly.

[@DrZzs]

Ya. I use the Lulzbot Taz5 with the MoarStruder. It has a 1.2mm nozzle and prints big parts really fast. That first layer doesn't come out too well. I should look at that. Thanks.

[@AaronFlaming]

@@DrZzs, the Taz5 is a great machine. You should be able to get that dialed in without too much work.

[@lucaswybrandt7058]

Use this one instead: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2631414

[@DrZzs]

thanks but my shades don't have that beaded string.