DIY Solar Project 2023, worth it in the UK?

[@sudiptodas0001]

This is the most straightforward, easy to follow video I have seen on this topic. Subscribed, teach me more master.

[@julianwinn4502]

Have a similar system but dump excess power into my hot water tank immersion heater using a Solic200 box. This automatically detects if I'm exporting excess power and diverts it to the immersion heater. Works a treat!

[@That1ufo]

Apart from you can almost always sell it for more than the cost to heat it with Gas, 15p export is currently standard but if you have a battery Octopus Flux will make £££, Even without a battery if you can not use in the peak hrs you will still make money. Octopus also recently dropped the MSC cert requirement.

[@bunnywarren]

I've got a system like that but worked out the money I could have made exporting the energy would equal the cost of the gas to heat the water. The only difference is I don't have to use the boiler at all during warmer months so that's less wear and tear. Overall I'm not sure it's worth the upfront cost for such a unit, especially since it only works during the day and often not when you need not water either late at night or early morning.

[@markgilder9990]

I have a similar setup. Works well. DIY cost of components just under £2000. Been in use from 2020.

[@mjg6966]

Be nice to see a year down the line update, great easy video.👌

[@simmona21]

What a brilliant video. Food for thought indeed and much cheaper UK hardware prices than I anticipated. Thanks very much!

[@steveallen8987]

1600w panels, EcoFlow delta pro + 1 extra battery = 7KWh storage. Panels mounted in garden with adjustable angle for winter/summer optimisation. Running through independent mains system to household wiring. Currently runs fridge, freezers, microwave, washing & dryer machines. Ready for blackouts with lighting and tv ready to switch over.

[@markwelsh9068]

Sounds interesting as I don't like trusting anything to do with the grid. Can you elaborate on the cost and what that independent mains circuit looks like?

[@movement494]

how have you connected your eci flow to your energy board?

[@vmanthani]

I had exactly same setup, costed me £5100/-. But delta pro failed in 4 months with burning smell. I was using 800w powerstream inverter. Now I installed Hybrid Lux inverter with 9.4kw Hanchu ESS for £5000/- including G98 and MCS.

[@gr33n000]

Great video, really interesting to see how much you can do for a DIY install. Would be really interesting to revisit your system after a couple of months to look at the pros and cons, what you would do differently/ next and what the ROI is looking like.

[@envermehmet8448]

Ive been off grid since Feb 2023 my system is 48v I have 9kw solar panels , 5kw inverter and 40kw battery storage all work well

[@carguyuk7525]

Great install. A friend of mine recently installed his panels on his roof using a scaffold tower and a safety rope. Afterwards, he admitted he would never do it again due to risk of falling and pain to knees and wrists etc. Great project update and good detail on your decisions. I look forward to a 12-month review of your system and your views at that time, including would you do anything different. Cheers.

[@dagdibrimi6042]

Informative and very useful. Thank you and good job!!!

[@terryhayward7905]

If you connect a grid tied system with a battery as you show it, there will be a loud BANG, and everything will stop working. The battery is charged by DC, not AC, it connects to the battery side of the inverter.

[@st200ol]

I noticed that too, a little bit of artistic license with the sketch perhaps?

[@daveoram7249]

That depends on the Charge Controller. Most PV Installations use A/C Coupled Batteries so they need a Charge Controller to convert from A/C to DC (charge mode) and DC to A/C (Discharge mode)

[@alpachino468]

I already have a 6kWh grid-tied system, but I wanted to add in a second 4x360kWh stand-alone array just to power a couple of things in my garage. This information is very useful, thank you.

[@brymstoner]

worth pointing out that 5kWh of LFP battery storage can be had for about half that price from amazon!

[@kurtbonner3163]

Brilliant! Thank you so much - explained so well!

[@galactica1980]

Its good you can DIY grid connect solar in the UK. Not possible in Australia, even offgrid is difficult and costly. We arent even allowed to replace a light switch without 4 years of "go to the shop and buy a left hand screw driver". I have even noticed that in Germany you can buy plug and play grid connect DIY kits.

[@chrisroyle4813]

Yours is a similar journey to the one I've been on - before things escalated. The SunSynk Hybrid inverter from City Plumbing is another route to go if you have adequate start up voltage. This future proofs the addition of a battery. I now have a spare Solax inverter which I need to get rid of. The Sunsynk is quite feature rich and the 3.6 version is pretty handy insofar as you can have 7kW of solar panels but is still G98 compliant in terms of grid connection. Looking at the legs on your frames on the flat roof, I'd probably be wanting to put some sort of spreader board under the legs to protect the roof. I'm now looking at adding a fogstar battery (and selling my SunSynk battery) which has been mentioned in another comment.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

I was going to post a comment about the legs digging into the felt roof myself... bloody flat roofs leak first chance they get ! DAMHIKT... 🙄 😎👍☘🍻

[@huwtindall7096]

side bar conversation but for the life of me I can't believe flat roofs were ever a thing - guess saving money but just long term pain!@@peterfitzpatrick7032

[@alpachino468]

So am I right in thinking that with the Solax inverter you can't add batteries to it? The SunSyk 3.6kWh Hybrid is over twice the price... 😮

[@roberts.wilson1848]

I see one serious problem and one potentially serious problem. 1) The roof above. If any debris is on the roof it will fall smack down on the solar panels. That is from accumulated snow/ice to actual damaged shingles falling. A high risk for damage to the panels. 2) wind could still get under the panels and strong gusts could rip them off. I'd recommend using some celular polycarbonate panel and closing down the sides as best as possble (make a triangle shape and screw it on each gaping hole side, to prevenmt gusts of wind from going there. And also various vermin to make a nest

[@andybuchan]

Brilliant video, thank you so much. Really enthused me to give it a go.

[@worskaas]

Like the Home Assistant integration!

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Seems like the inverter /dongle would have been better weather-protected in the loft space , even if its IP rated, I'd still prefer it out of the weather... Great vid, thanks for the info, very inspirational !! 👏🙂 😎👍☘🍻

[@brymstoner]

yeah that made me wide-eyed seeing that. house it indoors. that's where i keep mine.

[@jensschroder8214]

In summer you have light and sunshine in abundance. It doesn't matter if you don't get all the sun. In spring and autumn you are happy to get as much sun as possible. In winter it's hardly worth it and you wait for spring. So it is worth aiming for spring and autumn. So set the angle to 38 to 42°

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

Good analysis.. 👏😎

[@brymstoner]

depends on a few more things than season. we get perfectly usable daylight (not just raw, cloudless sunshine) throughout the year. the type of panels you're using makes an even bigger impact. the best choice for uk weather is half cut monocrystalline panels. i collect energy even on cloudy days. granted, not as much. but better than nothing. and my whole flat is off grid.

[@sabinkamal]

@@brymstonerVery interesting! Do you use solar energy for heating / hot water as well ?

[@brymstoner]

@@sabinkamal I'd like to, but it would be very difficult for me to do that in my current apartment. But I may need to find a way soon; currently my heating cost is bundled in with rent, and the landlord will be separating it and making heating a pay as you go thing.

[@dukemaximus1639]

Great video. You should look at hybrid micro inverters if not already. How did you notify DNO and get G98 certification?

[@dukeminster]

Great video - curious to know why you mounted the inverter on the outside of the house rather than in the loft?

[@TimmyBoja]

Curious is one word for it 😂

[@minualunel9629]

You can buy Tuya MCB with energy metering to have your own monitoring system.

[@Fritsvrolijk]

Thanks Pro Regards from Holland

[@Mike_5]

Been looking for a good DIY video on this for a while now and done by someone who know's what they are talking about - Fantastic!

[@yellownev]

A really informative video on a tidy and sensible install thank you for sharing your project. I initially went for a off grid system with Pylontech batteries but got frustrated over the G99 approval as my inverter was bigger than 3.8 for the G98. I removed all the Pylontech stuff and Growatt inverter and paid a local company to install a Solax system with a 5.8 KW battery. They ‘ adopted ‘ my solar panel install and gave me the MCS certification. I didn’t bother with a meter for export as I also had a zappy charger installed for a future second hand electric car which will take any excess and since may whe. I had my system installed it’s been great getting upto 800kw of generation to date …. My target is 1500 kw for the year ! I’d love a video on HA as that is my next hurdle to jump Subbed thanks again.

[@markeh1971]

Hi, I think once you get an electric car there won’t be any export! That’s the idea. Take care M.

[@tonydickerson999]

Why did you get rid of your pylontech battery, I'm trying to get one at a reasonable cost and a second hand one might of been just the job, can I ask what size (KWh) it was and what you sold it for?

[@yellownev]

@@tonydickerson999 it was as above due to G99 approval. I think it sold for 1100 iirc. it was a US5000. Was a bargain for the fella. got two racks fuse and cabling still if its of interest ...

[@tonydickerson999]

@@yellownev I've been looking at the Seplos kits and in particular the 15KW kit which is on special offer for about £2500 inc VAT, building my own rack, but might be interested, have you got any photo's and a price in mind.

[@jmpcrx]

​@@tonydickerson999honestly, dont bother, build your own. 14.4kw using eve cells from fogstar, use jk bms, £2200. All the bought batteries are a complete ripoff. They work with any inverter and you learn how it all works then, so youncan fix it yourelf if any problems arrise.

[@AnotherBoring43yearold]

great video, ive got solar and often wonder if I can simply add more panels as my inverter is larger than current setup...

[@freethink3r]

Hi, thanks for sharing your DIY setup. Do you have an update for 2024 on how the system has performed? Anything you have had to change / repair?

[@jebadaiah1228]

got a 2024 update?? how much did this end up saving you?? what is the price difference between the now and before.

[@HowTo-ne1rg]

Yep need to know 😊

[@pjconnolly]

That's a great job, food for thought.

[@bobdobalina276]

Very inspirational, I was pleasantly surprised how little it cost. I never thought of putting solar on my two ground floor extension roofs - no idea why, it seems obvious now. Looking at mine now, my main roof is hipped so I think the lower roofs may actually have more surface area. I dont think you actually answered your question(!) is it "worth it in the UK"?! You look and sound pretty pleased, any idea what the pounds and pence looks like yet or is it too early?

[@mb-3faze]

The city plumbing 15% discount on first orders specifically excludes solar equipment. Still free delivery, and those 405 panels are now £93 Inc vat.

[@Kennytyrer3989]

LONGi Solar Hi-MO 5m 410WP Full Black PV Module LR5-54HPB-410M 787545 £56.74 each, Inc. VAT

[@mb-3faze]

@@Kennytyrer3989 What a difference a few months makes! That £56.74 price *includes* delivery. (I just bought 18 for another system.)

[@kizzerplowright]

great content i realy like thats its short but full of good info. very happy

[@StephenBeale]

Excellent video, just what I was looking for. Got inspired by the solar setup on my campervan, and looks like you went for something that is quite similar. Plus I also have a flat roof that is barely used so great to see that, too - roof is too intense for me as well!

[@SteabhanMacGR2]

15:52 Nice and solid but a little brush of epoxy resin would help protect the softwood from the rain. It’s a cheap alternative way instead of the treated timber. Solar Panels,can stay efficient for up to 25 years according to AI. Update. A 3.7kwh battery is the most efficient system for value for money

[@rjsmith26]

great video thanks but no mention of hybrid invertors.

[@tonydickerson999]

What precautions have you in place to not backfeed the grid on a sunny day during a power cut, potentially putting someone's life at risk, and as I found out you have to have the correct smart meter from your utility company that is bidirectional otherwise it will assume that any excess you feed back into the grid is you actually drawing from the grid, and in my case it doubled our electric bill which we never got refunded for as it was impossible for the utility company to tell what was going in and what was going out, I also believe that you have to inform the utility company that you are feeding into the grid and have to have licences/certificates to do this.

[@alanpalmer3879]

Hi did you or did the electrician fill out the form I think its call G96 to the power company to say you had solar going back to the grid? As I would like to build my own system like you 🙂 I have done an off grid system and works great

[@davepage1151]

What you’ll find is that you may hit the 2k limit on your inverter even though your panels are rated for about 1.6k. The rating on the panels is the same across all of them, so specific temperature and light. I found with my 4.86kWh system installed in January is at one point in April it the inverter hit 6k (only achievable as was sending power via DC to batteries as well as AC to the house/export) - this was because it was a bright clear day, sun was at its highest for the day which was right for the panel angle and the temperature wasn’t high … ideal conditions as was about 20% above the panel rating. As the weather got better the high production point dropped likely because of the temperature of the panels being high - currently in September after the quote poor July/August compared to May/June I’m seeing 4.2kWh at its peak on a clear day when the DC route is there to send excess (batteries still charging). During the good months I slowed down the battery charge rate to prevent clipping so that there was still charge going to the DC batteries at the peak production time during the day to maximise export which can add up to several kWh/day extra at 15p/kWh in the long daylight months.

[@peterfitzpatrick7032]

This is what I love about the commwnts on vids like this... a valuable little nugget of info given for free.. 😶 ... or do I owe you money ? 😧... 😂 😎👍☘🍻

[@bermudavipertv]

Excellent video, described in simple terms. I'm thinking of doing the same now

[@brymstoner]

do it! and go for battery storage as well. it'll cost a little extra - batteries are the most expensive part of the build - but you'll be better for it in the long term, not beholden to energy companies.

[@williampelzer1460]

Good video, I've got 4.6kw of panels spread across two roofs main house and flat roof extension with a 4kw solax inverter AC coupled to a victron battery inverter with 9.6kwh of batteries. Other considerations : if your panels are more than 20cm above the main plane of the roof you will most likely need planning permission, it would be a really good idea to install a DC isolator before your inverter (in case anything goes wrong with the panels for disconnection purposes) and finally when you grid tie you need to apply for a G98 (16amps per phase) or G99 (for ESS or bigger systems above 50kw) EREC as you're feeding into the grid. The main consideration is that your installation is safe and isolates when the power is cut. Thanks for the video I especially liked the home assistant bits. Only just saw your replies to other posts about your G98 but I'd still recommend the DC isolator and have a look at your local planning permissions to make sure it's all good.

[@daveoram7249]

I agree, a DC Isolator is a Requirement. There are IP65 so easy to fit outside near the Inverter under the Eaves. DC Cables go from Panels to DC Isolator then from DC Isolator to Inverter

[@alisonhall9385]

I agree reference planning. It doesn't fall under permitted development once you go above 0.2 metres higher than the flat roof which this clearly is.

[@daveoram7249]

I forgot to add that ideally you should fit a DC Surge Protector between the DC Isolator and the Inverter to protect the Inverter from Lightning strikes or other events where there is a current surge.

[@joseywales3848]

You don't actually need to apply for a grid connection agreement under G98 as it's 16A or less so it's connect and notify. If your system is generating more than 16A per phase then this will fall under G99 and a grid connection agreement will be required prior to energising the system. Similarly, a grid connection agreement is also required if the battery is to be used as a backup supply in a power cut irrespective of the inverter size. Some DNO's allow a fast track process if you are installing a PV inverter of 16A or less output and a separate battery inverter/charge controller of 16A or less output.

[@minualunel9629]

Done this same install about 2 years ago, same inverter, 6 X 385W panels 29 degrees on the same kind of flat roof. Connected only 5 panels to inverter and using one of the panels to charge a 24v battery and to run some fans and lighting to the inverter. Fans will go faster or slower depending on the sun brightness, exactly as they are needed.

[@kibriag]

Hi, did you have to get notify your DNO with a form g98 or you didn't bother?

[@Vic-xg2kc]

Very informative. But is it worth it in the UK? You didn't present the final financial figures and give your opinion. Though I admit the details are there in the video. Thanks.

[@jasonking6892]

Good video. Thx Kev👍🇬🇧

[@jmpcrx]

Hey, im in suffolk, built my own diy system last year too, 3kw, 14.4kw lifepo4 eve storage. Is awsome. Not many of us here in the uk doing this.. My setup is a bit different and diy to yours. I did the whole home assistant thing also to send data to my phone/tablet on the wall. Did the lot for just over £4k. (second hand 250w panels, 3kw epever hi hybrid inverter, jk bmses, diy battery boxes, diy everything hence the cost. 👍

[@WeeWillyWeiner]

How much have you saved on your energy bills so far?

[@vincentcausey8498]

Interesting video. As you presumably don't have an MCS certificate, I would be interested to see how you got round the energy providers block on offering reasonable export tariffs to DIY projects, or perhaps you just export under the government SEG scheme?

[@JR-xw5dk]

The ~45° where the frame hits the roof, you may want to put some extra asphalt shingles under them to protect your roof. Just a thought. The wind may cause some wear there.

[@marekkobiela6331]

Very good and informative video, very helpful . many thanks

[@shawng5799]

I went the second hand route and spent about the same. I think I will have a pair of those panels and mount them in the garden. I built my own lithium battery and there is something about running your whole house off a battery every night. We only use 3-4Kwh a day. Some days our daily electric bill is 3 pence. I think that is what the smart meter uses.

[@thomasbroker69]

Love to know where you got the info to do this?

[@lithgowwilson5157]

@@thomasbroker69 Everything he has done can be learned from youtube, there are dozens of channels (mostly American, but the principle is exactly the same) which explain in great detail how to build batteries etc. You do however need to be technically minded with regards to building the batteries from bare cells. It is very staisfying when it all works though... What i did was 'cherry pick' various ideas then amalgamated them into the best system for me.

[@brymstoner]

@@thomasbroker69 the basic layout for an off grid system is panels into an mppt charge controller (victron is a great choice for charge controllers), into batteries into an inverter, which you plug your things into. a good idea first would be to measure your consumption. you can do this from your meter, noting the difference in kWh's used at a set time each day, or by using a watt meter to do the same right at a plug socket. but that will only measure whatever's plugged into it, not everything. then build your system out to meet your consumption needs. or adjust your consumption down and build a smaller system.

[@gjurrjens]

Good work Kev ! Realy detailed vid.

[@xxwookey]

Those panels are 60 quid each now, 18 months later, which is kind of crazy. PV panels have got very cheap indeed: I just bought 7kW of panels for £1100. In 2010 180Wp panels were £500 each so 2.9kWp was 8 grand for panels alone. Factor of 12 reduction in price in 15 years.

[@en53kff]

Very informative and food for thought.

[@jay26cee]

A quick one to point out - a correction on your side (but a good one at that) - you mentioned that 42.x degrees which was the best you could get (with your restrictions) BUT angle alpha isn't the angle the righthand side is referencing for optimal angle to sun. Rather, it is the angle beta (against the vertical) which in your case is 47.5 degrees. So, you are better off that you made out. 🙂 Probably better for UK positioning as we'd rather get better power generation from the longer, brighter 'warmer' months than the colder ones. Thanks for the very informative video!

[@jameslewis2635]

The problem with DIY solar systems in the UK is that according to the information I have seen the person installing the panels needs to be certified for the job. Householders are not allowed to work on the fuse box themselves (as you would need to in order to install a solar system or fit a new circuit) without being certified electricians.

[@TimmyBoja]

He’s running T&E outside and mounted an inverter on the roof! That’s why you need an electrician.

[@bunnywarren]

When installing the inverter (and batteries), be wary of minimum spacing around it. The one selected here requires 30cm of clearance around all sides and I don't think the installation shown here meets that. When discussing power generation, it's " kilowatts hours" not " kilowatts per hour" - nit-picking but the latter may be interpreted incorrectly.

[@NicksGarageUk]

Great video,, I think I’m going to do similar,, hopefully it will take the sting out of the electric bill, I will start small and possibly go bigger if I like it,

[@steveclarke3499]

Bimble Solar are the go to folk for all things solar. Cheap and good quality.

[@glockieme]

Nice vid with great info. Thanks

[@IBoughtaTesla]

An excellent video for people to understand how to get started in solar power. I would have liked to have seen a bit more on the electrical connections to the consumer board, and how the panels were connected in. Will you be purchasing batteries to stop "wasting" solar power?

[@RaysTrack]

Superb content and presentation; very informative.

[@jacksamthompson]

Kev this is a great video. V helpful

[@Joey-Little]

Very helpful, thanks!

[@SteabhanMacGR2]

17:13 Go for Parallel The way solar panels are connected to an inverter-whether in parallel or in series-can significantly affect their performance, particularly in terms of output voltage, current, and overall energy production. Let's explore the differences between parallel and series connections, which can impact earnings: ### Series Connection 1. **Voltage Increase**: In a series connection, the voltage increases while the current remains the same. For example, if you connect four 250 W panels rated at 30 V each in series, the total voltage would be 120 V (30 V × 4). The total output power remains the same (1,000 W) as the current from each panel is limited by the panel with the lowest output. 2. **String Length**: The number of panels that can be connected in series is limited by the inverter's maximum voltage rating. If one panel is shaded or underperforming, the entire string's output current is affected (due to the current being equalized), which can reduce overall energy production. 3. **Higher Voltage**: Higher voltage can be beneficial in reducing line losses over longer distances between the panels and the inverter, but it may also require more expensive equipment or specific inverter models designed for higher voltage inputs. ### Parallel Connection 1. **Current Increase**: In a parallel connection, the voltage remains the same while the current increases. For four 250 W panels connected in parallel, the voltage would remain at 30 V, but the total current would increase, potentially allowing for higher total power output (up to 1,000 W if each panel produces at its rated capacity). 2. **Improved Performance**: If one panel gets shaded or is underperforming in a parallel configuration, the other panels can still operate at their maximum capacity, which reduces the impact of shading or inefficiencies on overall system performance. 3. **Easier to Manage**: Parallel connections can generally be more flexible because they allow for easier integration of additional panels without worrying about total voltage exceeding the inverter limits. ### Impact on Earnings - **Performance Under Varying Conditions**: If you have a scenario with shading or varying panel performance conditions, a parallel connection tends to perform better, resulting in potentially higher energy production and therefore higher earnings. - **Optimal Configuration**: In a well-designed system without shading or other factors affecting performance, the differences in output may be minimal. However, most real-world situations may benefit from the more resilient performance of parallel connections. ### Conclusion In summary, using a parallel connection generally offers improved performance and reliability under varying environmental conditions, which can lead to higher total energy production and increased earnings over time. The best choice between series and parallel connections ultimately depends on the specific installation conditions and design characteristics of the solar power system.

[@wotviewer]

excellent video, thanks very much.

[@VFRrider]

This is a great, and informative video. Thanks for the clear information. But. I have one question for you: Surely you sell your excess electricity to the grid? I thought they paid you for your power?? If not, why not? You called it wasted energy, but if it was sold, it would be far from wasted?

[@spiritualdeath101]

This is a most excellent video. I was thinking of a crude off-grid system plugged directly into my immersion tank to make "free" hot water during the summer. I would like to buy prefabricated wooden frames and mount them on a s.facing wall because I don't like heights either. I will be referring back to this video for ideas. Thanks for doing this.

[@brymstoner]

if you really want crude, light a fire under a metal tank of water. generating heat from electricity is very energy hungry. running a kettle or microwave, for example, will cost you between 1-3kW of energy. and that number is a constant for as long as the thing is in use. so if you don't have much battery storage, or you're choosing to heat the water during the day from a grid tied system, that'll respectively chew through your storage / cost more money from the grid. ultimately though, the best option for hot water is geothermal.

[@alicequayle4625]

Theres a few gadgets to dump excess electric into hot water tank.

[@stevecoombes1235]

Useful information and very easy to understand. No need for the background music though. It would be interesting to hear about how the solar install has affected your bills.

[@speedmatters]

Vey helpful - thank you.

[@robertjpayne]

Excellent video - well presented project. I think I will definitely go for the battery option as it is criminal what the power companies pay for our exported power. Thank you!

[@geoffaries]

What payback period would you expect for a battery set up?

[@robertjpayne]

@@geoffaries I have no idea but as I do not intent to sell the house and hope to have, let's say 15 years, left of life I would think I would be ahead.

[@midlandrickpowell7692]

Well constructed, clear for grid connect and off grid. I accept that diagrams need to not be comprehensive but you have the battery connected to the AC side and need to state the important job of the Charge controller interaction with the battery. Be careful when describing the graph records of day/ month/year solar when you use the term kW hours or kW per hour.

[@firstnamelastname8235]

City plumbing does not allow solar items in their 15% off for first orders, it is clearly stated in their terms and conditions so if you got the discount well done...but it was a mistake. Besides that great instructional video. Thanks

[@JohnSpedtsberg]

Good stuff. Explains a lot of small but not insignificant details that other KZbinrs don't explain

[@tommytee8387]

Interesting informative clear concise content…then I remembered life is to short to worry about when is best to boil a kettle..Stat Well.

[@jarpen3]

See how simple this connection is. And how much money do they charge for the connection?

[@RoteGranate]

19:56 your total yield on that day is 7.7kwh ( 7700wh), Not per hour. 1.6kwh on the other day. 😊

[@daveoram7249]

Nice Video. I would like to do a DIY Install. It isn't difficult if one is familiar with Electrics but what puts me off is (1) having to pay the 20% which is so annoying, why the Government can't just waive 20% off all Green products and let people so self install is beyond me and (2) the MCS Certification but with the recent Octopus announcement this may not be a problem

[@brymstoner]

what's stopping you from mounting the panels on the ground and running cable into your home? i live in a flat and have my panels over my balcony. only have 2 panels, but they charge 7.5kWh of batteries well enough for me to run my whole flat off those batteries. i consume ~20kWh a week.

[@UpsideDownFork]

Great video!

[@grantmidd]

What about an off grid system but with an AC input to charge the batterys in winter.

[@minualunel9629]

Apparently you shouldn't install a DC isolator. I think Efixx have done a video on that.

[@CraigRoyK]

How did you go about MCS certification, etc? I’m thinking of a DIY installation for an outbuilding initially (off grid), but would like to eventually tie it into the house as well.

[@hufartd]

I dont think hes getting paid for dumping power into the grid, However Octopus energy have just announced they are dropping the need for MCS accreditation they are happy to take and pay you for power if you have some to spare. Please note, this doesnt absolve you of current wiring regulations and have a competent and safe installation.

[@barryphipps9442]

In the winter when power is needed most we only get 8hrs daylight out of 24hrs and that is a weak sun so minimum power .... not for me!😊

[@jensschroder8214]

You installed the isolation switch on the AC side after the inverter. Doesn't the isolator switch have to be on the DC sides to shut off the solar panels? Never open the DC plugs when the sun is shining! This creates a DC arc and can be dangerous. It is better to wait until the evening when there is little sun on the modules. That's what the DC isolating switch is for. Installing the inverter outside in wind and weather is an English affair. Maybe cover the lower area with the connections from rain?

[@thomasbroker69]

I thought exactly the same, leaving that inverter exposed to the elements doesn’t seem a great choice when for the sake of longer bit of cable it could have been mounted in the loft with easy access inc an isolator switch & a cabinet. Exposed to the sun & rain it won’t take long to dry out the circuit boards inside as well as the outside start to look rather murky but maybe they said they are made to go outside.

[@stebob1995]

Great video very much enjoyed it

[@knoxieman]

Great video although I winced at the lack of shoes lol, lots of ppl with large back gardens could put in systems like this although if you have kids I would make ground floor installs parallel to keep the voltages down, you got a good price on that timber as well 👍 subbed, please let us know how the roi is looking.

[@topp0009]

can you get a smart socket to turn on when detects excess solar energy for e.g a electric oil fancy radiator or elec underfloor heating ect .thanks Neil

[@chandreshvarsani2190]

Great video, i would advise to anyone, that DC voltage is dangerous and can kill if you dont know what you are doing and also can arc also. You should install DC isolators and instead of timber frame consider using unistrut bars with proper solar panel clamps wo ensure that dont rattle and that the panel is clamped in the clamping zones correctly to prevent panel distortion and damage.

[@aardvaarkisgood]

It would have been helpful if you could have given some idea of an average annual saving in £s your set-up acheived.

[@javiermitchell7073]

Very informative video. Its a bit simplistic, you did not expand on the types of inverters when you explained the 3 installation types. maybe on a new video, also will be intersting to discuss the possibility to get a grid-tied ssytem then expand to a battery backup one

[@steveeggleton876]

They always say diy, and then get someone in to do some of the work. Hope you put something under the timbers to prevent them puncturing holes in your felt roof.

[@cornishplumber5051]

Beat me to it ) Some sole plates for the 2x2s

[@223Sako]

Usually some tooth sucker.

[@FreeWareFrolics]

1. Did you get MCS certificate? 2. Did you have to get DNO approval? And of so did you do that yourself/ was it an easy process? Makes sense to mount onto flat roof as mounting on the main roof would have meant a few extra grand just in scaffolding costs

[@timsyoutube6051]

Whats the bureaucratic process for tying these to the grid like? Id always assumed DIY solar in the UK would be very difficult to get tied to the grid.

[@worthingsteve]

please Net that install off, you will be amazed how many pigeons you get if you leave it like that. we have a gap about 3 inches off our rooftop and our roof became a house for loads of pigeons until we blocked off access with a mesh...

[@davepoul8483]

Hi.. greta vid... But.. Can i ask about the diagram at 03:44 as it looks like you have your battery, DC, connected to the output from the inverter going to the main consumer unit, AC. Surely this woud be 2 seperate feeds.. ie DC out to battery, 2 way. And AC out to mains, 2way.. just an observation..

[@topp0009]

how did you get it signed of if wired self please as I a spark and finking adding solar.. do I ring local.firms to connect up and did you need planning permission for solar in kitchen roof as I wanta do same..thanks Neil

[@rhiantaylor3446]

I must admit, I missed the part where you told us if it was worth it, i.e. what you saved in a full year vs. what you explained you had spent. Could you recap how much power your "1600w" array of panels actually delivered in the UK climate ? thanks

[@daveoram7249]

At the price paid I can see the return being worth it. As a DIY Install however I am surprised if you will get any money back from the Grid as it will not be MCS approved. Octopus did announce recently they will accept PV Installations that are not MCS Approved but you need to prove the Installation has been installed competently and not sure if that means you need to be an Electrician

[@lithgowwilson5157]

he hasn't got a full year of data yet based on his home assistant files....I assume we will see an update at some point next year..

[@mjp0815]

Cool time lapse showing the clouds going by with power graph 📈... Are you getting a battery?

[@chaswinder]

Nice video, subscribed! Do you have any info/tips about submitting paperwork to the DNO ?

[@kevinmatthews2620]

fogstar are selling a seplos rack style battery around 15.2 kw of storage, complete diy kit for £1,999 grade b batteries or grade a batteries for roughly £400 extra, buildable in 2 hours, so no batteries are not expensive, consider also octopus flux export up to 30 odd pence per kwh export, soon pay for your system :)

[@speedyrazor1]

Indeed, the DIY kits from Seplos are a very good deal, I mention this at 5:53 in the video.

[@alwebb373]

Great video thanks .How does the electrician wire the inverter in to the consumer unit (ex electrician)

[@TheRealMatrixNow]

Great Video, how much did you pay the electrician mate just so I can get an idea. Did it take them long to wire it in? Also did you need an agreement with your electricity supplier regarding feedback your excess into the grid?