Diy Tesla Powerwall ep38 Soldering Fast Axial Glass Fuses

[@terrytexas8257]

Thanks for posting this. I was having one hell of a time with those fuses. I'll give it another shot using your system.

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL thanks Terry. I did have a couple of the get away from me ;)

[@blakejohannes7102]

You're on your way! Glad with the progress.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks Man

[@johnsmythe9449]

the magnet is a great hack for catching those cut leads... well done

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks!!!

[@victorleskiv]

love your idea of using a magnet so those pieces don't fly away and short something

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks Man!🤘

[@lloydprunier4415]

I vote for moving the bus bar up one cell set. Labor of love!

[@AveRage_Joe]

:)

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

please re-solder the fuses, the solder must flow into the buss wire rather then sit on top being they are called cold solder joints. So far you have did a great job on all else :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

I think the camera makes it look like that. I assure you there was flow!🤘

[@JamesThompson-xl4yu]

Ok thanks. Just didn't see the solder go into the copper buss wire. :) Thanks for the reply.

[@tiborkiss9186]

Hello Joe, I found the perfect tube: 2/3" KPE, used for garden watering systems. Thin wall, but strong enough. :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Awesome, were did you find it and is it a tight fit?

[@tiborkiss9186]

it is available in the gardening section of any DIY store here in Europe. Used for automatic watering systems (they put it to the soil). I also used it - so just tried it - it is a nice tight fit. www.tubatrade.hu/en/pe-pipes/pe-pipes-for-water.html

[@AveRage_Joe]

Oh ok I think Ive seen that stuff! Ill have to look for it next time Im at the hardware store!!!👍

[@garfieldx]

where can I find the batteries holders in your video?

[@eltondixon3124]

You didn’t say what type of fuses you use

[@AveRage_Joe]

I am using .5a glass fuses. The next 14s packs I may raise it but havent decided yet!

[@Jannbanzon]

How many amps fuse?

[@AveRage_Joe]

I used .5a but if I did it again I would use up to 2a for "less" resistance.

[@barneymerrill3188]

Just wondering, you put the fuses on both sides or just the one shown in the video? Thanks...👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

Just the one side! 🤘

[@barneymerrill3188]

@@AveRage_Joe So, you use nickle strips on the other side then....buss bars??? Thanks...🤠👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

I used 24g copper wire attached to busbar. I have another vid showing what I did. Next pack build Ill be using 24g tinned copper wire on neg side but will spotweld instead of solder.

[@barneymerrill3188]

@@AveRage_Joe How far back was that video? Interested in watching that one! I definitely want to watch the one spot welding the 24ga tinned copper! I just got the lipo pack I needed for my spot welder from Germany....just got to clean up the 3D printed parts and put it together! 🥳👍🛴

[@AveRage_Joe]

Here is the neg side slodering kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJClc4WFfqmkqq8 and here is a vid later spot welding fuses on a diff pack kzbin.info/www/bejne/p6W9kmxqZrybjdE

[@stevedutcher3875]

Very nice job! Thanks for showing us.

[@AveRage_Joe]

+Steve Dutcher Thanks, No problem :)

[@barneymerrill3188]

I've seen builders use 5a fuse wire, 1/8w resistor legs for fuses...what's the difference between them and the .5a glass fuses you use? Thanks!!!🤠👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

If you use wire, the length can change the amp rate to pop it. Wire is still an acceptable way to cell level fuse. You could use resistor legs in a pinch but might as well use wire. I personally like the glass fuses as it keeps the wire inside the fuse contained if it pops. When wire heats up it can glow red hot and possibly melt something. In my build I used .5 amp fuses because when I tested them they would pop around 2 amps and that what I wanted. Next build Ill use 1amp as they also pop aroumd 2amps but with a hair less resistance. In my testing, the glass fuses will pop at about double the rateing. All wire and fuses should be tested before use.

[@barneymerrill3188]

@@AveRage_Joe Thanks for your response...what you're saying makes a lot of sense! How small down of a pack would you use cell level fuses? I imagine you would not use them on a pack built for an electric scooter....but, on a power wall it would definitely be called for. I'm in the planning stages right now for building a power wall for my RV and safety is top priority! Thanks again for your advice!!!🤠👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah I would for sure use cell level fuse (of your choice) on pretty much all battery packs especially on used cells however ebike, escoots and boards ect.. are a different ball game lol. Most will just nickle strip the hole thing which I just did for a lil scooter😀

[@barneymerrill3188]

@@AveRage_Joe I imagine most people doing DIY power walls leave them open for inspecting every so often...since mine will be in my RV, I'm looking to padding mine with EVA foam and shrink wrapping for added protection since it will be in a moving and bouncing vehicle.....your thoughts???🤔👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yeah you would want to make everything as sturdy as you can. Padding and shrinkwrap for sure!

[@ngungnghikhong5895]

Beautiful job with a nice finish touch with excellent explanation + share the trick from your experience , I have to call you Pro Joe . I just get into this hobby i just think about if I use MPPT or MPV solar charge control to charge battery + BMS , do i need to add fuse on every cells ? and can i use fuse just on each group of 6 or 12 volt ? why i think about that because 1) battery cell are ready check , 2) MPPT or MPV charge controller will not aver charge 3) BMS like long-mont monitor the cell/ group 4) Fuse on each group save time and money . please teach me . Thank you all .

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thank You!!! Well I would say yes for the cell fuses, even if its more of a last ditch effort. Minimum I would use some sort of thin wire that would pop just in case of accidentally shorting the pack out. I know we all try to be as careful as possible but were human and accidents do happen. I have accidentally shorted 2 packs at the same time and blew 200 fuses. If the fuses werent there, I dont even want to know what would of happend. Many others have done the same. Yes it does take extra time but the time is well worth it. Cost for cell fusing is very minimal, less then $20. I use the PCM60X charge controller, its a MPPT and works great. Im able to set the voltage to whatever I want. I am also using the Batrium for a BMS which I would suggest!👍🔋

[@ngungnghikhong5895]

Thank you Joe , i did watch almost all of your video , that is why i come up with your experience turn average Joe into Pro Joe , I love the pro way you did and the finish touch from detail to detail are master work . I just begin with it in begin I use AGM battery now i like to use Li-on battery like the way you build the power wall , so far i have 2 BEA 40V 18.4AH 736WH LITHIUM LIFEPO4 96 A123 26650 BATTERY to begin , I crack it open, did not find any fuse on the battery cell . I rebuild it into 3 group of 12.6 volt because i have 2 x 12V inverter and so far it work good , let see how long it last then i go to build it bigger so i can run the 220V 1 hp pool bump (-: . But i have to say Thank you for sharing your knowledge . And yes I when to the website you give and .... the BMS from longmont + the control software ... make it look super super Pro . BTW my Co Worker make a study from your video and said You can begin with YTU ( KZbin tech. University ) because your video are great teacher .

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks for the binge watch!!!! Yeah most packs that are made from the factory wont have the cell fuses since they are all brand new! We install then now because they are all used and we dont know the condition of the battery and its better to be safe then sorry. I hear a lot of people like those A123 batteries! Yeah you gotta start building somewhere. The Batrium bms is the best for sure! Ill take a look at that YTU!😃👍

[@ngungnghikhong5895]

Well yesterday i buy 6 more for $600 , total 8x 736W/h Hope one day i can get it like you 14 pack , First step is made like the most people here who watch your video .. .... We love it and stay support you .

[@AveRage_Joe]

Noice! There you go! Yeah you will be there soon enough for sure!!!👍👍👍

[@cekpi7]

Did you try to run .5A on longer period? Becouse fuses should pop at their rating after some time, i have 3a fuse that can handle 3a for 10s but needs 8a to pop instantly

[@AveRage_Joe]

+Cekpi7 Yep I have a video testing them and I gradually bring it up untill it pops🖒

[@dillonmccormick2511]

“Just picked this up at Radio Shack” - almost dropped my phone trying to turn it upright to see what year this video was made.

[@AveRage_Joe]

RIGHT!!! 🤣

[@bigsmile542]

I like the magnet idea some great ideas here,

[@AveRage_Joe]

+bigsmile542 Thanks!!!

[@DiyintheGhetto]

Hello not sure if this been answered but how much Amps would these fuses take before they blow?

[@AveRage_Joe]

The .5a pop at 2 amps and the 1a pop at 2 amps as well. Ill be giving away 1.5a fuses that pop at 3amps during the live streams next week if your looking for fuses :)

[@yutuniopati]

Hi, how much KwH each of these pack have ? 4kwh ?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Each pack is 226amp hours so its around 850 watt hours per pack at 3.7v.

[@billm1756]

Is the length of the wire on each side of the fuse important?

[@AveRage_Joe]

I dont think so. Most of mine are equal but I do have some that are really uneven next to the heat shrink.

[@billm1756]

Thanks. I was just looking at the end fuses and it looked like you was trying to keep the wire long. Great info thanks for posting all the videos.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yep, I was basically trying to keep the in the middle and make it consistent 👍

[@martinkubis3340]

great work Joe. Why dont you place busbar 1 cell inside/higher? Less likely to short, you wont need heathrink for end and no funky business with last cells fuses (easier) :) And how do you know which fuse popped, to replace dead cell? With wire it is visible... just wondering :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks, Yeah I guess I could have moved the bus bar in 1 cell lol. Not sure why I did it this way, I guess It just happened :) I might do that on the next 11 but I do kinda like the look of the heat shrink on the end. To many decisions LOL

[@martinkubis3340]

Yep, looks nice, should have written earlier :) They go anyway in the server rack, so packs in 1 'drawer' will have different backs, hidden anyway. But great job, thanks for nice videos!

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks, and to your other question, Ya you can see the wire in the fuse or if there popped

[@Garuthius]

I am so glad to see someone addressing the issue of single cell replacement in these large packs .... the simplicity of genius .... desolder 2 connections and replace cell vs desoldering the whole pack just to replace 1 faulty / weak / blown cell .... it's a no brainer really :D ... well done that man :D

[@AveRage_Joe]

+Garuthius Hall Thanks Man!!! Although one can always break the tabs on the normal black cell holders to remove a cell to not take the hole pack apart but I like my lil setup 😉🖒

[@chrismusso69]

How do you know that you only need 0.5 amp fuses?

[@AveRage_Joe]

+chris musso I ordered .5a, 1a, 1.5a and 2a fuses to test. I picked the .5a because it pops at 2a. I wanted a low amp fuse so if a single cell starts to go bad it will pop low vs pulling the hole pack down. Most others that use copper or tinned copper wire are set to pop at 9 to 25 amps which is fine but it takes that much more.

[@chrismusso69]

Thanks for the quick reply and thats really interesting, I was also wondering how to know the max amprage that I would use. Is it the max that my inverter draws or is it based on the divices plugged into the inverter? Im buliding a 3s/100p pack. (I know this is a stupid question but im new to this stuff..)

[@AveRage_Joe]

+chris musso It would be off how much your inverter would be pulling but a 100p pack each cell would see less than an amp usually. Do you have a device that you want to power. For example a 1000watt device plugged into ur inverter will pull about 8-9amps at 120v. Then you take 120v÷12v=10. So it takes 10 amps at 12v to equal 1 amp at 120v. Then you take 10amps at 12v X 8 or 9 and you have 80-90 amps at 12v to power the 1000watt device plugged into the inverter. Then you divide the 80-90 amps by the 100p and its .8 or .9 amps per cell. Hope that makes sence, if not send me a pm as im typing this on my phone at work lol

[@AveRage_Joe]

Oh then you divide .8 or .9 by 3 😀

[@chrismusso69]

Makes perfect sence thanks so much, prob gonna get the same fuses as you it looke like.

[@sailingmic9790]

Hi Joe! How hot (temperature) is you soldering iron?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Mine goes up to 900!🔥😄

[@1959Berre]

@@AveRage_Joe 900 F

[@jamest.5001]

how many cells in a pack? I'm thinking about going with 20cells in a 4 x 5. times 7 in series.then either add on. or make a heavy buss bar to bolt the about 8 gauge wire to from each pack. only about 6" of 8 ga. Or less. with about 2.2 to 2.5 ah Per cell. I hope this time next year to have a 4,000ah 29v bank built. and still going. I would like to run lights and TV and fridge . for a week without sun. and have enough solar. to charge it back in less than two days. but I'm dreaming now. thanks man.

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL yeah a 4kah (

[@ismailozcelik1662]

@@AveRage_Joe kablo kesiti kac mm kullanmaliyiz ?

[@gerddijkstra7339]

nice work, witch type off fuse you use here ?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks, These are called fast axial glass fuses. I got them from aliexpress and I just put a link in the description box :) I am using the .5amp and they pop at 2amps. They have a lot of choices

[@jeffflanagan2814]

Looks good!

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks!!

[@ronzonitsanel5567]

i hope you notice me and i already subscribe to your chanel i am planning to build 3S and 20P 18650 can i use Fast Axial Fuse 1A? or much better if i will use 0.5A my expected power 150-240Watts if i energize

[@AveRage_Joe]

1a are just fine. They pop the same as the .5a fuses. I am going to use 1a on my next packs! You could probly use a higher amp fuse since you will be using 1a per cell.

[@nicholausstraach458]

So that is 25x4?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Yes!!😀👍

[@nicholausstraach458]

Cool thanks! I am more of a hands on learner, but do you have a video explaining the the witch doctor maths. Why 25x4 or 20x4. I have also seen 20x6 and 15x10.

[@AveRage_Joe]

+Nicholaus Straach No video on the witch crafty maths but if I were a new person still planning it all out I would suggest to not go much bigger than mine because they can be akward to handle. To be honest, when I first started building mine I just made it like this without thinking lol but it worked out cause later on I gut the server rack and they fit purrrrfectly😆🖒

[@Voss564]

Love your vids

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks!

[@paoloestefan1539]

hi bro! does using glass fuses better than using wire fuse?

[@AveRage_Joe]

Its really a preference thing. I used the glass fuse because I wanted a lower pop rate than a lot of the wire could do. You can use wire no problem👍 which wire where you thinking of using?

[@paoloestefan1539]

Thanks for the reply man. We only use resistor feet here for our diy powerwall.

[@1959Berre]

Yes

[@stevesrt8]

Thumbs up joe!

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks Man!!!

[@jfraser3]

looking good :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks!!!

[@immrnoidall]

why not fuse wire? i see others use fuse wire.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I wanted a lower amp fuse so it will pop as soon as a cell starts to go bad vs a wire that pops much higher and can pull the pack down slowly before the wire pops. Also a wire will get red hot if the cell is going out and just cant pop it. Thats just my opinion of course 😀👍

[@immrnoidall]

ok

[@Woodyjims-shack]

Great going... lots of work but hey :)

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks man, thats what I say. Lots of tedious work right now but I like the challenge

[@levik1832]

Does the fuse wire, once welded to each cell, also keep the looser cells in place within the pack? Vids continue to look great. I really dig the track you use during your time lapse starting at 5:04.

[@AveRage_Joe]

It does keep everything in the pack and fairly flush if you pick it up. However if you flip the pack over they can slide out a little towards the fuse or bus bar untill there soldered on the negative side. Ya I like that song as well, I seem to use it a lot, its called Far away by MK2 and I found it in the youtube download section

[@levik1832]

It's like the song's composer had "time-lapse montage" in mind when making it. :P

[@AveRage_Joe]

I know RIGHT!!!

[@Voss564]

hi who are the laptop giveaway winners

[@AveRage_Joe]

Ah crap I got a little busy and havent done the giveaway yet. :) Ill do it this weekend!

[@Voss564]

ok

[@rhoemberg1969]

🚷🍆Don't ...Just don't...That's Nasty!

[@AveRage_Joe]

LOL😂

[@w8stral]

Holy Cold solder joints...all those solder joints to the bus bar are COLD , but you MIGHT get away with this as you are NOT subjugating this to vibration... just heat temperature differentials... Good luck. Doubt it in the long run. Otherwise, good job.

[@AveRage_Joe]

None of the joints on the bus bars are cold. The solder flow was liquidy and shiny during build. Still using the packs today!

[@w8stral]

@@AveRage_Joe Looking through a video and obviously not as good as the ol' mark one in person, but If the solder does not flow, it is cold and is a lousy joint. Shiny and no flow is still cold. I have made plenty of such joints and been sorry every time I did not fix it. The problem is the thick copper bus bar + solder by the way. From the vid: I saw a multitude of bubbles of solder which sits on the thick cold copper bus bar. If there was no bubble, then it would not be cold. Not shiny and a bubble just means it is a REALLY bad "solder" joint. Yes, it will work for a while. A very long while if there is no vibration. As a power wall? Sure could work(obviously it still is). IF you put this in a car/bike/scooter? Would never work. Sorry, but true. Soldering to thick copper is near impossible as it requires a MASSIVE amount of heat applied to the copper over a long period of time. Why most would use an arc spot welder and NOT solder. Why Plumbers use a giant flaming TORCH when doing copper pipe and not a teeny tiny soldering iron. Sorry, been in your shoes and been sorry everytime.

[@AveRage_Joe]

I wonder if its just how it shows up on camera! The first few solder connections took a bit as it was heating up the bus bar but once it was heated up the flow was great!

[@bostjantrancar9605]

nice

[@AveRage_Joe]

Thanks!!

[@atrevinop]

Hi, Incredible and clean job... I starting my own project of battery paks for my VW Beetle 2001 (www.libredehumo.mx), I need at least 72 Volts and 130 amps.The fuses than you using in this video are appropiate for my proyect?

[@agvulpine]

Instead of applying solder to the iron, apply the iron to copper and then solder to the copper.

[@AveRage_Joe]

If you apply solder to soldering iron first it keep you tip lasting longer and the tip holds heat better.😃👍

[@agvulpine]

Ooh, them's fightin words!

[@agvulpine]

Honestly though, you're burning off all your flux before the solder contacts metal. Flux is what helps your solder whet the metal; Without it you'll end up with weak joints that break off. You would also use half as much solder as you're using now, even less.

[@AveRage_Joe]

Lol😆👍

[@AveRage_Joe]

True but I also add fresh solder/flux after the copper is heated up. This is the way I learned when I was in the AF and back in shop class in high school!👍